JW ONYX Build

[Goinav8n]

I have just recieved JW 16. I had about 2 hours last nite so I started the build. There really isnt much to do on it. I will attempt to keep it as light as possible.

There is a tremendous amount of room in the fuse. I will have everything forward of the servos.

Here are a few pics

Jeff

If anyone wants a different pic I dont have up let me know and Ill put it up

[ClayH]

What adhesive did you use to install the servo rails?

Clay

[Kai@UCSB]

I found that the wing is too thin for servo rails (94761 servo). :(

-Kai

[Goinav8n]

I use GOOP to secure them into the wing and also use it for the servo mount in the fuse. Its flexable so a big jolt wont break the glue joint.

The ds-168 fit fine in the mount. I made sure before they were glued in.

Jeff

[Keith Kindrick]

"I found that the wing is too thin for servo rails (94761 servo)."

Not true. I have 4 of them installed in my wing.

[flyboyjimi]

Hey there jeff, I was waiting for you to get your new ship!! I guess it finally got there and it is a beautiful looking ship at that. I know it will be worth the wait when you get it in the air. Keep us posted on your progress! BTW the Tsunami still flys great, just put a couple more hours on it last saturday Jimmy in H.B. :D

[Goinav8n]

Jimi

Im glad you are getting the use out of it. As I said its a great plane and a real landing machine.

It took a while but since I wasnt going to be able to finish my scratch built Supra in time for the F3J team trials I needed something and this was it. I want to get it going so I can get practise in

Jeff

[Kai@UCSB]

"I found that the wing is too thin for servo rails (94761 servo)."
Not true. I have 4 of them installed in my wing.

Keith,

Attaching are the pictures of my OnyxJW. For aileron, if I place the frame and servo in the middle of the servo cut then it won't flush the lower surface. If I push the servo more toward to the leading edge, it can be flush. However, I then cannot change servo in the future...
Did I do anything wrong? :o

-Kai

[allanp]

With my Onyx I had to grind out a notch in the servo bay "lip" right over the mounting screw,it doesn't show with the servo in place.To remove I lift the aft end of the servo and pull up and back at the same time.
Allan

[ThermalBuster]

Jeff,

Did you get a ballast tube with that? What is your plan there?

Thanks

[Goinav8n]

Yep I have the tube. I will build it and fly then add it later. Its a Kevlar tube so it will be easy to find the correct spot.

Jeff

[Keith Kindrick]

You have the servo arm for the aileron servo in the wrong position. It has to be placed toward the spar which is why it will not work as indicated in you machine.

[allanp]

I've always mounted the servo as shown. If you don't the actual servo arm will not clear the servo cover or the LE of the servo bay.If you move the servo aft toward the TE to allow for clearance with the cover you end up with more wing skin to servo case clearance issues as the wing tapers.
JMHO
Allan

[JustinONE]

how much is the onyx? who sell them?

[allanp]

Soaring USA sells 2 versions(though they might not be on the website).The standard MH32 wing and an updated JW version

[Joe W]

I hacked mine and made the flaps top driven. Ended up with about 75-80 deg of down flap deflection. It actually was simpler to do than I thought it would be, just glue a horn on the upper surface, carve a hole in the upper wing, etc. At some point I'll put a little fairing on top to reclaim some aerodynamics...

If you look closely at the second pic, you can see that I ground away some of the clevis to remove the interference between the control surface and the clevis.

I'll have to make a plate to replace the trimmed servo cover/fairing. For now I just cut off the linkage fairing of the stock servo cover/fairing. It will need an itty bitty bump (maybe 0.5mm) for clearance on the horn/clevis when the flap is deflected down about 20 deg.

[Keith Kindrick]

Interesting modification ; -)

[Goinav8n]

Joe

Did you do the ailerons the same way?? I was thinking of doing it the same way as my Xpro it this way. It works good

Jeff

[thelocust]

I hacked mine and made the flaps top driven.

What's the advantage here? More flap travel and less drag?

[Robglover]

Joe -

Interesting that you think the drag savings is worth the trouble to swap over to top driven flaps. One of the things I like about the Onyx JW is the ease of installation of the bottom driven wing control linkages. Seems to me that I can usually get things tighter when they are bottom driven as well. I did wind up with different flap horns than what was supplied, but that's no big deal.

[Joe W]

Bubba,

I futzed around with the geometry/linkage until I got what I wanted in terms of servo throw vs control surface throw. This is the key to system stiffness. As long as you get this right, it doesn't matter whether it is upper or lower surface driven. As to drag reduction, I got rid of all protuberances on the lower surface, which is the important surface for slow speed thermal work. the upper surface is transitioned to turbulent fairly far forward, but the lower is largely laminar for slow speed flight. If the tips were bottom hinged, I would have done the same for them as well. since they are top hinged, the required horn on the top would be pretty ugly. BTW, this is probably the tightest flap linkage I've ever done... top or bottom.

[tonyestep]

[QUOTE=Joe W]
... the lower surface...is the important surface for slow speed thermal work...
===============
Joe, presumably when you drew up the wings, both ailerons and flaps had bottom hinges and top horns. One has to wonder why the production wings came out the opposite way. Do you know if there's any thought of a revised version that would have the hinges and horns set up the other way?

[Goinav8n]

Ok I finally had some time to get some building done. I did do the top control horns on the flaps. I do like that better. It didnt take to long but it was time consuming. I used the supplied horn and reshaped them for this purpose.

Here are the pics

Jeff

[Goinav8n]

Joe

Where is your tow hook located. Anyone else that has one please post it here

Jeff

[Robglover]

Joe

Where is your tow hook located. Anyone else that has one please post it here

Jeff


Jeff -

I have mine at 21.75" aft of the nose, some what aft of the CG. At this spot the plane needs some down trim for launch.

[OVSS Boss]

Ben,
You may need a longer servo arm on your stab servo to get the throw you need to get all the throw needed for F>E compensation depending on the length of the control horn of the stab.

Marc

[Robglover]

Ben,
You may need a longer servo arm on your stab servo to get the throw you need to get all the throw needed for F>E compensation depending on the length of the control horn of the stab.

Marc

Marc -
I'm in the middle hole with a standard arm on my elevator servo, plenty of travel for me. The stabs are generously sized and quite effective in all flight modes. Joe did good.

[Goinav8n]

More donr tonite. I have the tow hook installed and deans 3 pin connectors added for auto hook up on the wings. I have done this on a number of my planes and it works good. Here are the pics.

Jeff

[Wing-span]

.:).

[nuevo]

FYI...(and not a criticism) you don't have to post to subscribe to a thread. See the "Thread Tools" menu at the top of the page.

[Goinav8n]

I havent had much of a chance to work on the ONYX this. I have been working some unusally long days. 16 hours so I havent felt like doing much ble to when I get home. I maybe get the controls hooked up tonite when I make my way back from Licoln NE. I am going to make my own servo covers but will use something from another plane for the time being.

What are you guys using for a CG. Testflying is not far off

Jeff

[Robglover]

110mm aft of the leading edge as I recall.

[Bro]

Jeff;
I am at 108...
Some back to 112....

Happy Landiings,
Bob

[capt soap]

Where's the best source for 4 pin deans connector's ? Ive been to all the hobby shop's in dallas/ft-worth? Lee

[Goinav8n]

I guess I am kind of fortanute that my local Hobby Shop sell these. They are a power plane hobby shop but they have deans and other connectors. I think Hobby Lobby and any of the electric type hobby shops would have them. They are good quality and make the job easy.

I just drug my but out of bed so Im going to work on the Onyx in about 10 minutes

Jeff

If you cant find any let me know and Ill go get some for you

[onemetre]

Aerohobbies or Mike's in Dallas should have these. YOu're saying you've been to both of these?

Rob

[Goinav8n]

Its done. Well I have to balance it but I just got everything else finished

The control linkages are real tight. The top drive flaps were worth the effort. The covers will be replaced but it will take me some time to get them done. I have some other things I need to do. Here are the pics. Maybe flying tomarrow

Jeff

[Goinav8n]

Flew it this afternoon after church. Its much slower in thermal mode than my Xpro. I only got 2 flights before the skies opened up and the rain came pouring down. I have flown Supras and this is very similar. One flight was 5 mins and worked a small bubble for a short time. Its gonna be a good plane

Jeff

[thelocust]

Its much slower in thermal mode than my Xpro. Its gonna be a good plane

I noticed the same thing you did - this plane crawls slower than even my Aegea Mantis (though they are likely not balanced the same).

Ed and Gordy took a look at the camber that is present in the wing even with the trailing edge "level" with the root, and mentioned that it looked like Frank Weston's old Magic series that had camber in them by default, and if you wanted cruise or speed, you dialed in a little reflex.

I was real happy with the plane with the trailing edge level, working in windy (but lifty) conditions, only throwing in 3 or 4mm of camber when I was coring a thermal.

Perhaps Joe will chime in with a little sage advice about this airfoil?

PS - Gordy noted that the top-actuated flaps on my Onyx were "really nice and tight" and that his Supra flaps were much sloppier.

[Goinav8n]

I really like the top actuated flaps. Mine are real tight. I did however have a wiper grab the top skin and do a slight amount of ripping. Easy fix with a piece of tape. The gap was a little to close so I took a piece of Mylar and put it between the wiper and top skin and then heated it with the heat gun. let it cool. After it cools I removed the mylar and the gap is much better.

I will make some covers for top and bottom. Overall I like the sailplane. I just need more time with it. Maybe tomarrow as I have a few days off. If they were avalible I would proabaly get another one and sell one of my Xpro's.

Time will tell but Im a happy camper so far

Jeff

[Goinav8n]

I got out today with Bret and put a few more flights on the Onyx. I am flying off the zip launcher so I get about 200 feet of altitude. Bret flew the second flight and hooked up for a 10 minute flight. Figures takes my kid to show me how its done. He really likes how it flies. To bad there arent any in the country so I could get another.

It works light lift very well. Lots of rudder and oppisite aileron it will turn very flat and tight.

Landing is great. Its a landing machine. The wind picked up but it was very easy to point it at the spot. Overall I really like it

Jeff

[Kai@UCSB]

Maiden mine yesterday. :D I went out great!! Need more stick time to trim it well.

-Kai

[CuriousMarc]

Just finished my Onyx-L two days ago. My build log is there: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719689
Can any of you share the throws and programming settings you use? I'm particularly interested by the amount of flap to elevator mixing you ended up dialing to prevent the plane from ballooning :confused: . A good starting point could make my first landings a lot less eventful ;) .
Also amount of aileron to rudder mix would help.
Thanks,
Marc

[Robglover]

Kai -
Do your first flap deployment while you still have plenty of altitude. You will then be prepared for what's going to happen when you get close to the ground.

[Goinav8n]

I believe I am using 20% down with the flaps I am at 110 on the CG so its a good starting point

As Rob said do it at higher alt. Without any it ballons a lot

Good luck and let us know

Jeff

[DProseus]

Jeff,

I had not looked at this thread until just now. I understand why you were willing to drive 4 hours to come to an informal TD contest our club is going to have. Sorry you will miss it. We will give you another chance.

Awsome looking ship!

Dick

[CuriousMarc]

Jeff,
Thanks for the help. Great advice, the 20% was right on the money. Flew very well and landed straight without any ballooning. I have a more complete report on my build log http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719689 .
Marc

[Goinav8n]

Marc

Great Im glad it worked for you. I have my CG further back than yours but it is just a preference. Its a strong wing. I never saw any bending during the F3J team trials. You will like it.

Jeff

[atjurhs]

What kind of aileron throws are you guys using, and what sort of values for differential?

[CuriousMarc]

My setup is detailed there http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8197411&postcount=31 . I use 50% differential in all modes except landing. I haven't measured aileron throw, I'll try to do that and post it.

[jtlsf5]

I just finished a JW build for myself. As many have already have, I decided to do a top driven flap. Thought I would share the flap horn details, it came out really clean.

I used a carbon flap horn for a blank and cut it to the shape shown on the Onyx flap horn; I could just of easily have used the supplied horn. After relieving the wiper for clevis access, I cut a 1/16" slot in the leading edge of the flap, then potted the modified horn with chopped fiberglass/epoxy. I also built up around the horn in the cavity behind the wiper, leaving just enough room for the clevis to move freely.

The hole in the horn is even with the top skin, and 3/32" ahead of the seam between the top skin and wiper. This allows a servo arm throw of 0.5" to give a 90 degree flap deployment.

It is incredibly tight, and will allow 90 degrees of flap if/when the hinge relaxes enough to allow this much throw. As it is it will easly drive to the limit that the flap will allow.

The pics should be self-explanatory. Oh yeah, the plane flew very well and predictably in 8-10 mph on its maidens today. CG 110mm, 72.8 oz, first guess at throws/mixes not too far off.

JT

[jrerickson]

Very clean! What did you use for the little fairing? How about the underside of the wing?

John

[jtlsf5]

Very clean! What did you use for the little fairing? How about the underside of the wing?

John

John,
A fairing mold I made for my Supra. It was one of the earlier Supras with the shallow blisters. I wanted larger blisters for the flaps and made this the mold. The picture below is the underside of the Onyx. I took another and used a little over half of the blister.

JT

[BrianSmith]

Nice build Jim... Brian

[jtlsf5]

Nice build Jim... Brian

Thanks! Whatcha flying these days?
JT

[BrianSmith]

Been flying Giant Scale motor models for a couple years.. Have a couple of Avas and a Supra coming...
To keep this thread on topic, how about an assement of your JW.. Quality, flying habits? You been there with a lot of ships.. Brian

Thanks! Whatcha flying these days?
JT

[schrederman]

I'll start mine soon. I'd sure like to see where you guys exited the wing with the servo wiring. I don't want to drill where I shouldn't. Where'd you put the antenna wire?

Jack Vader... now on the dark side... or... the lesser JW... take your pick.

[nuevo]

Oh go ahead, just sign your posts... JW :D

[Goinav8n]

Because of the carbon in the fuse and boom I drilled a hole on the right side if the fuse just at the end of the canopy and had it exit there. I taped it along the side and have had no problem with reception.

I was going to put it in the wing but the wiper is also carbon so I didnt do that. In the first few pages in the post you can see where I had the wires exit the wing. Its pretty fast and not hard at all

Jeff

[schrederman]

Wires exiting the wing in the joints are not the problem. I am wondering where they exit at center to go into the fuselage.

Darth JW

[CuriousMarc]

I have it exiting at the back of the wing saddle and taped to the top of the boom. Pictures can be found there: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8114055&postcount=21

No range problem whatsoever, it seems to actually work better than the internal antenna on my woody.

Marc

[glderguy]

To keep this thread on topic, how about an assement of your JW.. Quality, flying habits? You been there with a lot of ships.. Brian[/QUOTE]

Yes Jim, please let us know, if you like, how you feel about the JW Onyx. I am going back and forth between it and the Zenith 3.7 for my next purchase and someones assesment of the JW would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Walter

[Kai@UCSB]

Walter,

You are welcome to try mine next time we fly together (SVSS contest this weekend?)

-Kai

[jtlsf5]

To keep this thread on topic, how about an assement of your JW.. Quality, flying habits? You been there with a lot of ships.. Brian

Yes Jim, please let us know, if you like, how you feel about the JW Onyx. I am going back and forth between it and the Zenith 3.7 for my next purchase and someones assesment of the JW would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Walter

Walter,
Glad to, but I only have a grand total of about 2 hours on the plane. First flights last Friday at Davis field. Pretty good day, winds about 8-10. Then Saturday I took my Supra along for some comparison testing, flying one then the other.

First flight Friday sorted out the trims and landing compensation a bit. This plane really balloons with the first 10 degrees of flap. This is probably the reason for Bubba suggesting first flap deployment way up high. He was right. I ended up with lots of elev comp in the first 20 degrees of flap, then backed it off a bunch to get a very slight nose down attitude at full flaps. Set up this way the plane slows way down, and I predict it will be a great lander.

The JW turned out to be a remarkably good flying plane. The best comparison is that it seems to be a bit faster in flight than my Supra, not as purely "lifty" as the Supra, but is still really efficient. I do like the way it will scoot around the sky and it launches real tall. (I'm at 110mm aft of the LE for CG, and just about under that for the towhook, all up 72.9 oz.).

I still need to experiment a bit more with differential, rudder mix and finding the optimal amount of camber. I will say the JW does not respond to camber input quite like the Supra; the Supra is very predicatable. I think the difference may be in the airfoil's pitching moment very near neutral (note the amount of elev comp I mentioned above with landing mode). My first impressions were that the JW stalled a bit more easily than I was used to with nominal camber added to thermal. Maybe Joe is right, the foil was tweaked a bit so it is slightly cambered at neutral setting (unlike the Supra where neutral airfoil is actually slightly reflexed).

I hope this is the type of info you're looking for. Like Kai mentioned, come up Sat. and you can probably get some window shopping and a check ride or two in.

JT

[glderguy]

Thanks Jim, input from you is highly valuble! May just come up Sat for test fly and a little comp, thanks for offer. The wife likes that Indian casino up there, Thunder Valley?? We may just make a flying/gambling(for her) day
of it. I hear they have a decent steak house as well. Thanks again for info.
Hopefully see you guys Sat.
Walter

[Fred Cotten]

Looking for DARTH VADER oldest son(JACK WOMACK) have you started on the DEATH STAR ONYX. Where are you. Fred

[schrederman]

Hi Fred,

I've been on the road for the last 8 weeks solid. I just got home from Belen. I'm in Clovis, NM and I am still waiting for a couple of parts before I start. I have no hobby shops within 90 miles or so... so I have to wait for stuff.

Jack D(arth) Womack... my middle initial realy is D...

[schrederman]

I've got the servo mounts in the wing. I made my own servo tray and glassed it in. I'll let the stuff dry for a couple of days while I'm out of town, and resume the "build" in a couple of days.

I looked and still didn't see where you guys exited your wires in the bottom of the wing...what am I missing? Did anyone get a set of instructions? (not that I'd actually read them :p )

Jack Vader

[nuevo]

JW, (ok, it's pronouced JV in German :rolleyes: )

What colors? We neeeed pictures.

[allanp]

I've assembled a Lazurite (shorter wing span than the onyx) and an Onyx.On the Lazurite I mounted a DB9 connector on the underside of the wing,on the Onyx I used two Deans connectors.The downside of the DB9 connector is the difficulty installing a ballast tube due to the female side of the connector protruding into the fuse. I didn't have that problem with the Deans connectors,I just drilled a hole in the underside of the wing centered at the widest part of the fuse opening,simply tuck the wires into the fuse and bolt on the wing

[schrederman]

It's white on top and white/red striped on the bottom. Pics coming later.

Jack

[Fred Cotten]

Varder, what servo are you going to use ? Fred

[schrederman]

I'll be using DS168s for ailerons and DS368s for flaps, rudder and elevator. I am out of town for 2 nights so there'll be no more progress until this weekend. I'll probably take Saturday to get it ready for a hand chunk or two. I have a large church field within walking distance down the alley... I'll post pics when it's supported it's own weight.

Jack of the Sith...

[terminal eagle]

Here are some photos of the Onyx JW with auto-hookup on the Wing/Fuse connection.
The ballast tube is removable until we get the towhook positon worked out.

Tim Gastinger

[Goinav8n]

Hi Jack (Dont say that in an airport)

Here is a pic on how my wiring exits the wing. 150mm behind the leading edge

I used the Deans 4 pins and a rubber gromet to keep the edges smooth and not want to cut the wires.

Good luck with the maiden. I may go fly mine this weekend.

Jeff

[BrianSmith]

That looks nice and neat Tim.. Brian Smith

Here are some photos of the Onyx JW with auto-hookup on the Wing/Fuse connection.
The ballast tube is removable until we get the towhook positon worked out.

Tim Gastinger

[schrederman]

Thanks, Jeff... That helps.

Jack

[CuriousMarc]

You'll find some detailed pictures of how I did it here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=719689

I think it's this post to be more precise:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8113968&postcount=20

I used a 6 pin Molex connector for wing to fuselage, and Deans connectors for center panel to wing tips.

[jtlsf5]

Here's some detail shots of my wing wiring and antenna routing. I don't consider a bit of drag with the antenna hanging out in the wind to be a problem, it makes the carbon blanking problem a non-issue. I don't race or fly F3B speed, so am not that concerned.

First pic is the DB-9 mounted in the wing. The 1/4" ply thing is what I made to install 3/32" ply backing plates to the inside of the wing to strengthen the plug mount. Cut the hole, cut the backing plates, put the plate on the ply piece inside the hole, add some thick CA and seat the plate. Quick and clean. Drill the mounting holes and mount the DB-9 harness.

Second pic is the fuse. I didn't get fancy with a self-engaging plug, too much futzing around to get them perfectly aligned. The fuse harness just plugs in to the wing and then wing is attached. The other detail is the antenna exit. I drilled a hole then installed a rubber grommet. Pass the antenna through and hook a rubber band to the end.

Third pic shows where the rubber band goes at the top of the fin in the little notch between fin and rudder. When stored, just roll the antenna up and tuck it inside the fuse.

JT

[Paul Naton]

I have a new Onyx too.........white with red trim like Ben Wilsons.
Here are a few pics of the cockpit install with a few mods I did.

Hate precut servo trays! Hard to get the arms set right with precuts. I like to use ball links when possible and it was hard to get clearance and optimum arm placements. I cut down the tray a lot to get better access to battery and rec. The airtronics digis should be ok on the elv, but if I ever feel the pitch getting soft on launch, I will upgrade to a bigger JR digi.

You can see the details in the photos, self explainatory. The bottom tray shot shows a bass wood cross member which was fittted and glued to the tray, then when the tray is glued in, I will set flush screws thru the fuse and into the cross beam a la Stork/Espada. The tray will stay put mechanically, and not just with glue.

Wiring is as I demonstrated in my F3 Building Clinc DVD, with servos powered directly from the battery. Cells are Tenergy 2500's, in 5 cell piggy back which goes way up in the huge nose. Eneloop cells are on order for some sub-freezing practice sessions this winter. Rec is JR790 synth, driven by 9303 72 mhz.

Just have to finish up the wing installs, going with bottom drive flaps to save time and grey hairs. I don't worry that much about lower surface seperation at low RE speeds! Got other things to worry about when going round and round low and slow. Hope to get her flying this week before winter sets in for good.

[schrederman]

My fuselage work is done except for the wiring. I bought a pair of db-15 shells today. They're 3 across in about the same size connector as a db-9. The last 3 pins won't be used, but... I'd rather have too many than stacking power leads... just the geek in me. Tomorrow night it's control horns in the wings and doing some wiring and battery pack building.

Jack Vader

[Bernie Wolfard]

# 34 in the pics above is mine. I gotta tell you, Tim does nice work. The self plugging wing center sections is very well done, down to the turning of the aluminum of the bracket, just like the dash on my fathers 56 T-Bird.

Thank you Tim for helping me out and for doing a much better job than I am capable of.

Bernie

[schrederman]

All up weight is 69 oz. with the balance at 112mm behind the CG. I just need to fit the servo covers after I do some adjusting on the flap linkage. If the wind isn't blowing tomorrow, I'll walk down to the church yard and give her a toss or two. Anyhow, I did my antenna a touch different. I marked where it would come through and added 2" of heat-shrink tubing - red of course - to prevent it from chafing. I stretched the insulation of the end of the antenna wire and CAd a loop of 10 lb. monofilament into it, and then used a piece of cotton string and a rubber band to secure it to the stab fairing. A bent pin CAd into a tiny hole serves as the anchor point.

Here's how she looks...

Darth Jack

[schrederman]

Here's the antenna exit.

Vader's fair-haired boy :p

[schrederman]

My fuselage install went well. The tray I made and glassed in. The battery is a Sanyo Eneloop 4-cell, 200 mah pack that I made. The receiver's in front of the servos, with the battery in front of that, with about 2 oz of lead in front of that. This is the first model ever in which I placed the receiver in front of the servos. The battery and receiver are wrapped in foam, and secured by the G&C method... (Grab and Cram). I haven't used a switch in a long time, either.

Well, I can't wait to see her going up the winch line... :D

Jack Vader

[Paul Naton]

Flew JW #31 for the first time today. 1 hand toss to check basic trim and flap/elv comp, then up the 3M high start. Conditons were sunny and 48, light winds. CG at 111 to start.

Did a full pull right off, and she went straight and pulled hard. Did a quick lap down the tree line, added a few clicks down for thermal mode, then scored a small thermal. First real flight of the JW, and 25 minutes later landed! Many thermals caught at below 100'.

Impressions: Very floaty, senses lift very well, likes rudder input/left stick when down low and banking hard. Very flat glide/low sink rate. Getting the differential and flap/aileron following ratio is critical in getting clean turns with this spanny bird. Second flight with some programming tweeks was even more fun, 23 minutes up, and caught 1 thermal at 30' and took it out. Must work trailing edge/trim a lot to get the cruise speeds you want.

This plane will fly better than most pilots have skill. Killer for the price! I likey.