"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:467b0be2$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> "Richard" <DK@Hotmail.com.au> wrote in message
> news:137kib5e2q45c17@corp.supernews.com...
>>
>> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:4679d2c1$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>>> "Richard" <DK@Hotmail.com.au> wrote in message
>>> news:137jis41pd6rj22@corp.supernews.com...
>>> >
>>> > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> > news:4679b664$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>>> >> "Richard" <DK@Hotmail.com.au> wrote in message
>>> >> news:137isg7372vfp98@corp.supernews.com...
>>> >> >
>>> >> > "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> >> > news:ohdei.2110$%Z3.469@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>>> >> >> news:467862a5@patrick.nettas.net...
>>> >> >> : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> >> >> : news:WiOdi.5134$_l6.4969@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>>> >> >> : > anyone know whats involved in the conversion?
>>> >> >> : >
>>> >> >> : >
>>> >> >> :
>>> >> >> : Do you want to convert your existing one or are you telling us
>> there
>>> > is
>>> >> > a
>>> >> >> : conversion kit???
>>> >> >> :
>>> >> >> : If your wanting to convert yours, good luck, I've looked into
>> doing
>>> > it
>>> >> > and
>>> >> >> : it would require MAJOR mods to the chassis, the gearbox
>> cover/brace
>>> > and
>>> >> >> the
>>> >> >> : covers that hold the batteries in.
>>> >> >> :
>>> >> >> : In the end I just got some real nice big capacity stick packs
>>> >> >> and
>>> > left
>>> >> > the
>>> >> >> : ladders with my e-maxx...
>>> >> >> :
>>> >> >> : Cheers Dre
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >> oh bum. At first it i bought some male corallis. Then i realised
>> it
>>> >> > would
>>> >> >> take more than that. One model shop suggested removing the
>>> >> >> plastic
>>> >> > battery
>>> >> >> housings and replacing with straps. Though i noticed as most of
>>> >> >> the
>>> >> > chassis
>>> >> >> in that area is metal the packs may short out if not very careful.
>> As
>>> > a
>>> >> >> touring racer i have 6 sets of ladder packs. Also two cells burst
>> in
>>> > my
>>> >> >> stick packs so i broke it down and replaced the cells and
>> reassembled
>>> > as
>>> >> >> ladder packs.(vapex 4300). So now i have two 2000mah stick packs
>> and
>>> >> >> 1
>>> >> > 4300
>>> >> >> stick pack and the rest are ladders. My xxxt conversion was
>> straight
>>> >> >> forward. As my coralli tubes are mounted onto the side of my
>>> >> >> packs
>> so
>>> >> > that
>>> >> >> they fit onto my highwalled tub chassis they slotted straight into
>> the
>>> >> >> xt.
>>> >> >>
>>> >> >
>>> >> > http://e-savage.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=355&limit=recent
>>> >> >
>>> >> > Above is what I was planning on doing to my Savage when my motor
>>> >> > and
>>> >> > esc
>>> >> > finally arrive. I'm going to make my own because I want to be able
>>> >> > to
>>> > use
>>> >> > various pack configurations.
>>> >> >
>>> >> > Also check out this Emaxx, well almost a Emaxx. I think the only
>> thing
>>> >> > left
>>> >> > on it that is Traxxas is the diff gears. He's one of the guys from
>> our
>>> >> > track
>>> >> > and the roller (no electronics) cost him $1200 used.
>>> >> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZMZeTJFA2f4
>>> >> >
>>> >> >
>>> >>
>>> >> Not a bad idea, but still, I'd prefer to stay with stick packs, they
>> sit
>>> >> lower and closer to the bottom center of the truck, giving it a
>>> >> better
>>> >> center of gravity. My 2 pairs of matched 3300mah batteries give me
>> close
>>> > to
>>> >> 30 minutes runtime and thats not just bashing around, thats flogging
>>> >> it
>>> >> everywhere...
>>> >>
>>> >> That dude is a bit paranoid about heat, LOL! Fans everywhere!
>>> >>
>>> >> Cheers Dre
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> > I've got to run mine that way since I'm converting my nitro savage to
>>> > electric, plus I'm retaining the 2 speed and I think I'm going to be
>>> > worrying about the heat in my packs. I also have 6 pairs of match 3800
>>> > &
>> 2
>>> > x
>>> > matched 4200 ladder packs and I'll eventually want to chuck a couple
>>> > of
>>> > 11.1v Lipo's in there some where.
>>> >
>>> > I recon if that guy moved his esc to the front of the chassis, he
>>> > would
>>> > loose about 30cm of wire and gain a lot of power and probably wouldn't
>>> > have
>>> > to worry so much about the heat.
>>> >
>>>
>>> Ahhhh, yeah a nitro savage to electric is another story :) You going to
>> run
>>> a second servo for the mechanical brakes?
>>
>> Yep, third channel mixing via the JR XS3 radio.
>>
>>> Re the e-zilla wires, I really doubt you would gain *any* power
>>> advantage
>> by
>>> shortening those power wires. They are plenty big enough (IMO). If
>>> there
>>> were a gain, it would be very minimal and I'm certain you wouldn't
>>> notice
>> it
>>> when driving the thing.
>>>
>>> I personally dont worry about the heat at all, but I do leave the truck
>> for
>>> at least 5 minutes between runs as I drive my other cars then. In the
>>> summer, the batteries, motors and ESC get *stinking* hot, but I've never
>> had
>>> a problem with them...
>>>
>>> My e-maxx is the same, its allways gotten really hot (esc, motors,
>>> batteries) and I've been using it like that for years, no problems.
>>> Allthough, the motors are starting to get noisey and tired, but hey,
>>> thats
>>> fair enough considering the treatment they have been given, time for
>>> some
>>> BIGGER BETTER ones :)
>>>
>>> Cheers Dre
>>
>> We noticed a huge difference in the Emaxx by moving the ESC to the front
>> where the receiver was and running 2" long wires to the motor, I also
>> replaced the motor and battery wires. Much cooler running and tons more
>> power and longer run time. We also did the single speed conversion and
>> got a
>> decent set of Bowties for it. Unfortunately I did everything at the same
>> time so I don't no which mod made the biggest difference.
>>
>> If this motor/esc combo works out for the Savage I will be buying another
>> one the Tmaxx and we'll offload the Emaxx. Specially since I only paid
>> $200
>> (AUD) for the motor and esc.
>>
>
> With all due respect, I find that what you are saying about shortening the
> wires and getting more runtime and more power to be absolute crap. If
> anything you would get more runtime by making the wires *longer* as their
> internal resistance rises but its certainly nothing you could measure
> without instruments, definately not just by driving the thing.
>
> The only gain you are getting is potentially better cooling as the esc is
> at the front, not the back, but as far as electrical performance, the
> length of these wires is completely irrelevant, they simply aren't thin
> enough to make a difference.
>
> Your improvments came from the fact that you removed rotating mass from
> the gearbox by making it a single speed *and* you lost weight in the tires
> also removing rotating mass, giving you more acceleration. The electrical
> side of things was just as efficient before as it is now.
>
> Cheers Dre
Btw, *the* biggest improvement you can make to the electrical side of things
in any electric RC is to either direct solder all of the power wires or run
some high quality high power plugs, such as Deans Ultras. These can make a
big difference to electrical performance as the standard bullet and tamiya
plugs are quite frankly complete and utter crap :)
Cheers Dre