Senior Telemaster issues. Help needed.

[litespeed]

I have an ARF that I'm really close to flying but now have a new set of problems. To start with my set-up is

RimFire 50-65-300 w/ 16-8 APC prop
CC45HV controller
UBEC
4- 9201 servos
JR R770S reciever
JR 9303

Ok now with the questions.

The manual says to go with 5 3/4 to 6 1/4 inch behind the leading edge of the wing for center of gravity. How does it fly there? I don't want to build a battery box and find it sucks there. I know I could always add weight to the tail of nose but adding weight that way just doesn't seem like a good idea. Thoughts?

On center of gravity which part should be level? Bottom of wing? Line drawn through wing? Top of body? Bottom of body? This is a learning experience for me.

I'm going to run 10s a123 packs which I use in my e620 Raptor for convenience and was wondering how many I should run, 1p or 2p.
I ran a single pack at half throttle staticly with my wattmeter hooked up pulling 525 watts and about 18 amps which lasted 7 mins and 30 seconds. How many watts are needed to just fly the telemaster around? My system peaks at 1300 watts now and I know I'll never need it but it was the only way to stick to my premade 10s a123 packs. I'm sure with one pack I could get 10 mins flying minimum but I wonder if the extra balast, pack number 2, would help the Senior Telemaster in flight. I've read many times that it could use some weight but at 1 lb 11 oz each pack I don't want to over do it. I need to know now since I need to build a battery hatch and battery box for the battery(s). I'm thinking I will add it underneath just behind the hardwood block for the landing gear. Thoughts? Something that will be hard to redo at a later date. Removing the wing each time just doesn't sound like fun to me. And why the made a battery opening in the nose is beyond me. To get 6" COG my battery needs to be almost centered under the wing. I read somewhere that the plane should run about 10 lbs and in the same sentance said it could benifit from more weight so I stand confused on how to proceed.

Thanks for your time!

Tom

[wrenwright]

Tom,

I fly a Sr. Telemaster at about 6-5/16 from the leading edge for CG.

A 10 pound Telemaster is fairly light. Most electrics that I have dealt with are about 12 pounds or so as they all have used nimh cells instead of lipo.

1300 watts should make your Telemaster go like a rocket! 130W/lb....that's pretty hot.

I've actually flown a Sr. Telemaster with 600-sized can motors on about 400W, so it's do-able. The Telemaster doesn't take much power to keep it in the air. Often, I will climb to altitude and then cut the motor to glide around before having to add power again to repeat.

I will say that in breezy conditions, more weight will help as with a very low wing loading, the plane can get blown around quite a bit. I've seen gas-powered Telemaster that weigh up to 20 pounds and they fly very well. That large wing has a tremendious amount of lift.

[speleopower]

Here is a thread I started a long time ago about converting the Telemaster.
Balance is not that critical. I fly mine with a balance of "about" under the main spar. It flies well with both a 20 cell NiMh pack and a 5s 6000mah lipo pack.
It takes little power to fly the model. Mostly you just need power to get off the ground and once at altitude you cut power and thermal with the gliders.
See ya-Scott

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=410957

[litespeed]

Well I'm just about ready for flight just a couple un answered questions still lingering. I need to know what needs to be level when setting SOG. The bottom of the flat wing? The bottom of the body? Top of the body? I took a couple picture below to show the level body and level wing.

I finished my battery compartment. It's accessable from the bottom of the plane with out having to remove anything else. Convienence is everything to me. :D I went ahead and made it large enough for 2 10s a123 battery packs which should give me 20 to 30 mins of flight time. If it flys on 1/4 throttle I think I could hit 40 mins easy. I used off the shelf hardware items to hold the hatch closed any better ideas are welcomed.

Some have said that the ST could stand to gain a bit of weight since it gets blown around quite a bit but I'm not sure I have too much of a good thing. Mine with 2 10s a123 packs ready for flight weighs in at a heafty 14 lbs 4 oz. I have been told that a 20 lb Senior Telemaster flys just fine so I hope to be ok. Each pack weighs in at 1 lb 11 oz so I can cut some weight right there if need be since I'm running them in parallel not series.

I also wanted to point out my wing strut quick (kinda quick anyway!) release setup I made. Part was stolen from a previous build from another which I modified to work better for me. I used 1/4" clevis pins with hitch pins to attach the struts on either side top and bottom. They are slop free and simple to remove/install.

I thought my power to weight was better but at 92 watts per pound it still should fly good. Thoughts?

Tom

[Mike Freas]

I fly my STM on a 5s2p 8000 mah lipo pulling 48 amps with a 14X10 prop. Mine is also about 10 lbs so thats about 86 watts per pound. I don't have any problem flying and it climbs with ease. I have carried my camera on the wing tip and my bomb bay full of plastic eggs with talc powder for a bombing run without issue. You should be fine with this set up.

[hermperez]

I like that strut mounting method.. how did you attach the studs to the metal straps?

[maxxnut]

I am flying a ST with an OS 50 helicoptor engine and a 13 x 4 prop. It weighs 11 pounds w/o fuel, has a 14 ounce tank and will stay in the air for 50 minutes at a time. What you might find is when you get about 5 feet from the ground on landing, it will just keep going in ground effect. Even with full flaps, it still don't want to come down.

Neil

[litespeed]

I like that strut mounting method.. how did you attach the studs to the metal straps?

I used hitch pin clips and clevis pins, availible at Home Depot, lowes, where ever. They are 1/4" x 2" that I have redrilled a hole for proper fit and cut off to about 5/8" long. I can take better pictures if you like.

Tom

[litespeed]

I fly my STM on a 5s2p 8000 mah lipo pulling 48 amps with a 14X10 prop. Mine is also about 10 lbs so thats about 86 watts per pound. I don't have any problem flying and it climbs with ease. I have carried my camera on the wing tip and my bomb bay full of plastic eggs with talc powder for a bombing run without issue. You should be fine with this set up.

Update on the power! I had only run one pack during static testing and achieved the 1300 watts that I originally posted. Last night while making some last min adjustments I hooked up both batteries and reached a touch over 1600 watts!!! The a123 cells sag under high amp draw to a point and then stay right there for the duration. One pack would drop to like 28 volts under full throttle but with the second pack it only dropped to 31 volts. The wattage dropped off after about 20 to 30 seconds to 1560 watts and stayed there for a bit till I chopped the throttle off. At full throttle I'm pulling 51 amps static which I prolly won't see while it's moving but is a touch more than what it should be for my CC45HV. I'll prolly replace it with a CC85HV or a Jazz 55-10-32 but in the mean time keep the full throttle to a minimum. The batteries stay cool as does the ESC and the motor only gets to real warm after 10 min of power so I think it's a good set-up at this point and at 1600 watts it's about 115 watts per pound.

Tom

[speleopower]

Balance the model at the spar and it will fly fine.
1300 watts is crazy for the Telemaster. It will fly just fine at 400-500 watts. I can thermal mine and 40 minutes flights are easy.

It's a Telemaster......not a high performance turbine powered jet. It should take off in a few feet at barely any throttle and will float in for nearly walking speed landings. It's super easy to fly.

Scott

[litespeed]

The ONLY reason it has such a high powered motor/battery combo is I wanted to use my 10s a123 packs for convienence. Convienence is everything to me!

Next I'm going to try a Yak or something along that style and big, atleast 80" wingspan with a little more power than this. Something in the 150 to 200 watt range will do.

Tom

[speleopower]

Sounds like a winner with the A123 batteries. When I use two 10 cell Nimh packs in series (i.e. 20 cells) the power is crazy. I'm thinking of spliting one of my 10 cell NiMh packs so I can make a 15 cell pack to power the Telemaster.

Bye-Scott

[Ron Williams]

Running your motor on a static test for more than 30 or 40 seconds is asking for a burnt out motor. If it flies weak you'll know why.

My ST weighs 12 lbs., has an AXI 4130-20, Jeti 77 amp opto, UBEC, 6s2P 8000 True Rc 10C pack(s), AR7000 Rx and flies like a feather. Loops, rolls, spins, inverted, sideslips (the most fun) and it will fly for a half hour easy - I get tired before it does.

[litespeed]

Running your motor on a static test for more than 30 or 40 seconds is asking for a burnt out motor. If it flies weak you'll know why.




At 1600 watts it's anything but weak! I'm sure your refering to getting the motor hot I suppose? My whole power system runs cool and the motor on warm at max. I would agree with your statement on an over proped or underpowered power system. Thanks for the heads up, you never know when I'll do something stupid. Don't believe me? Ask my wife! ;)


My ST weighs 12 lbs., has an AXI 4130-20, Jeti 77 amp opto, UBEC, 6s3P 8000 True Rc 10C pack(s), AR7000 Rx and flies like a feather. Loops, rolls, spins, inverted, sideslips (the most fun) and it will fly for a half hour easy - I get tired before it does

I'd like to see yours fly. You ever do a static test on yours?

What is a sideslip? "The most fun" is what I'm after!

Tom

[whizzard]

The manufacturer sets the best CG for most planes and the reason Telemasters balance so far back on the wing is because of the flying horizontal tail stabilizer.

This lifting tail does help the plane fly better and because it does lift so near the rear of the plane, the CG has to be farther rear than most other planes with only flat horizontal stabilizers.

As several have stated earlier, because of the enormous size and lifting ability of the wing, :D the CG is not as critical as some other planes.

Bill

[litespeed]

Thanks Whizzard!

Tom

[litespeed]

I flew my ST today and man is it a nice easy flyer! It only needed 1/4 throttle to take off and just a touch less to keep it climbing. I tried full throttle for a few seconds and it climbed straight up like it was nothing. Upside down was much easier than I had read too. Some of the "Pro's" at the field mentioned that the ST control rods that come in the kit are to soft for such large control surfaces, They are kind of springie/spongy feeling(?). And that also I should ditch the plastic clevises and go to steel/metal ones. I'll switch out the soft cheapie rods for some 4-40 rods/clevises before I go for more advanced flying. I really like the feel of it and it landed much better than I had anticipated reading so much about the "floatie" charactoristics.

Tom gives it "two thumbs up"!

Tom

[speleopower]

If you have good thermals in your area you should be able to ride a thermal or 2 as well.
The STM is my standby relaxation model.
Bye-Scott

[8kasl]

I would love to hear about just 1 full scale aircraft that has a "lifting stab"---it doesn't work,never has and is not a good idea.I'm sure the Teli flys fine but name another model or full scale plane that uses the Lifting stab.Instead of using down thrust to control excess lift the stab does the job,but with 1 real potential problem--put in a steep dive,the faster it goes the more it wants to keep diving!harder to pull-out and loads the elev. servo more than normal--just a bad idea IMHO.BTW,like mentioned before,it's always good to balance on the main spar for starters no mater what plane it is.Maby not for the Teli?

[kelberts]

A Telemaster pretty much doesn't care where the CG is, as long as it's within an inch of the spar front or back.

Mine flies on about 500-600 watts with an E-Flight 60 and 6S. It's WAY overpowered, IMHO. It can leap off the ground in a totally non-scale way, climb out at 60 degrees, etc. It rolls, loops and flies inverted with no struts. (Per Tom Hunt, none are necessary unless you are carrying a lot of payload).

I have a 4S A123 pack, and when I get another one, I'll try 8S in the Tele.

I have mine set up with flaperons and spoilerons. The flaps really help get the sucker down, and the spoilers can kill lift when it is hanging up there in a thermal.

[8kasl]

Kelberts,That's a great F18,looks to be fiberglass or?Any info on it?

[hermperez]

The tele is a weird plane, but it does fly well.. I did not like mine at the spar, but about 1" behind.. and did not like it farther back either. This was the 72" version so adjust accordingly.

Down thrust wastes motor power, and the tele is designed to fly on very little power.. maybe the lifting stab is there to prevent zoom up with full power?

I'm not going to mess with the design, it has been around for a while :)

I would love to hear about just 1 full scale aircraft that has a "lifting stab"---it doesn't work,never has and is not a good idea.I'm sure the Teli flys fine but name another model or full scale plane that uses the Lifting stab.Instead of using down thrust to control excess lift the stab does the job,but with 1 real potential problem--put in a steep dive,the faster it goes the more it wants to keep diving!harder to pull-out and loads the elev. servo more than normal--just a bad idea IMHO.BTW,like mentioned before,it's always good to balance on the main spar for starters no mater what plane it is.Maby not for the Teli?

[drbyrnes]

From my experience, it's usually safe to start with the CG at the main spar of the wing, especially a plane like the Sr.Tele which is just a big trainer anyway. Of course the high performance,3-D aerobats require a more precise range for the CG, and most manufacturers will provide the parameters. However, the CG range will usually fall either on or very near to the wing's main spar. I'm sure there are exceptions, but most planes fit this description.

[Ron Williams]

Tom -

Side slipping is when the ailerons go one way and the rudder goes the other. Check out the Hobby Lobby ST video - there's a great side slip in there where the ST is flying sideways.

A good substitute for the stock pushrods are carbon fiber arrow shafts like the ones Walmart sells - lighter than 4-40 wire. Bind the wire fittings to each end. One of mine is actually finished in camouflage!

[kelberts]

Mine flies on an E-Flight 60 and 6S PQ4000s. The CG can be pretty much anywhere within 2" of the spar, and it doesn't care much. I'm flying on 800+ watts, and it's totally too much. Coulda easily used a "46" size motor. I don't use struts, and do loops, rolls, hammerheads, etc with no issues. Weight is about 10 lbs.

I have it set up with flaperons/spoilerons.

[tulz43]

Is it normal for the wings not to fit together very lightly? Mine seem to have a lot of play with just the spars installed.

[feathermerchant]

Is it normal for the wings not to fit together very lightly? Mine seem to have a lot of play with just the spars installed.

That's the way mine was. I added some CF to the top and bottom of the joiners to strengthen and tighten them. Then I used Elmer's poly (like Gorilla) glue to glue the wing halves together. No struts for me.
Anyway, the spoilerons don't seem to have any effect at all except reducing roll rate. And to land I have to cut power and make 2 laps to lose enough altitude. It has a power 60 on 6S. All batteries are in front of wing leaving much room for bomb bay.

[NeoLogic]

I've never programmed flaps before. I have them set up to use the Aileron surfaces. When enabled, they are to go down, and not up, right? My radio says they could go either way depending on the model.

I also have some elevator mixing when the flaps are enabled. I think i have it set for down elevator. Is that right?

Thanks!

[sun.flyer]

I've never programmed flaps before. I have them set up to use the Aileron surfaces. When enabled, they are to go down, and not up, right? My radio says they could go either way depending on the model.

I also have some elevator mixing when the flaps are enabled. I think i have it set for down elevator. Is that right?

Thanks!

Flaps when activated should always go down. Spoilerons are like flaps but they move up when activated.

- Yes you will probably need to program in some down elevator when the flaps are deployed as they will create additional lift on the wing. ;)

Tim

[feathermerchant]

Which radio are you using? It makes a difference.
Mark your aileron extension plugs somehow so you'll plug them together the same way each time. With 'spoilers' (ailerons up) my TM does not change flight path at all. As far as I can tell, they have no effect except to reduce roll rate to almost 0.
With 'flaps' (ailerons down) the TM pitches down slightly and roll rate disappears also. I just compensate with a little elevator. I have 30% rudder mixed in with aileron and still cannot turn effectively with flaps. So I only use them when not turning. They have some effect but not much. I also have 10% brake programmed into my Castle Phx80 ESC. It helps some. With no wind, I have to slow it down SLOW until I cross the tree line then let it drop down to land. Still uses a lot of runway.

[Geoff Dryer]

I programmed flaperons for my ST but I found that they were not needed and really made little difference anyway. The ST will slow almost to a crawl without flaps. In a light breeze I can land almost at a standstill.

[hermperez]

if you want to reduce the landing distance.. side slip it.. the increased drag from the fuselage will kill the glide.. and you can modulate it to finesse the landing.

[El Capitán]

if you want to reduce the landing distance.. side slip it.. the increased drag from the fuselage will kill the glide.. and you can modulate it to finesse the landing.

Do you have a video of this? I would love to see how it is done? I am thinking of getting a 8ft senior telemaster as my first giant scale. I want to make mine electric.

[feathermerchant]

Scale what?
All you need to do to land is force yourself to fly really slow.

[El Capitán]

Like landing a Slow Stick, slow? I have a small area to land on my problem is the steep angle of the final approach. I have to clear the tree tops(not real tall trees but tall enough) then bleed off altitude to land, even with no throttle I pick up a lot of airspeed. There are trees about 20 yards from the begining and end of the runway. If I have not touched down before I get to the center of the runway I have to take off again or I will not be able to climb out over the trees.

[feathermerchant]

Yup. Just stall it at altitude first so you can see how slow it can go.

[Geoff Dryer]

Below is a link to a video filmed from my e-powered Senior Telemaster. The views are of Burnaby and Vancouver BC.

http://media.putfile.com/Senior-Telemaster-Inflight-Video-20

I concurr with explanation of "Force yourself to fly really slow". Fly around as slowly as you can (with altitude) and you will find that it almost stops before stalling. If you land with slightly more speed than that then you will be able to park it on a dime.

[feathermerchant]

It does not fly lik ea 10lb plane. Heck my wing weighs 4lb.

[El Capitán]

Below is a link to a video filmed from my e-powered Senior Telemaster. The views are of Burnaby and Vancouver BC.

http://media.putfile.com/Senior-Telemaster-Inflight-Video-20

I concurr with explanation of "Force yourself to fly really slow". Fly around as slowly as you can (with altitude) and you will find that it almost stops before stalling. If you land with slightly more speed than that then you will be able to park it on a dime.

What is a reliable inexpensive e-setup that will give it good power with nimh batts.?

[feathermerchant]

A power 46 would do. I am using a power 60.

[Geoff Dryer]

I am running the ridiculously overpowered Telemaster. I can hover it.

AXI 4130/16
Hyperion 80 AMP ESC
Hyperion 6S - 5000 battery
APC 17x8E Propeller
Approximately 1300 watts

[feathermerchant]

FYI the Power 60 on 6S and the AXI 4130/16 on 6S are nearly the same.

[LaxLife]

Geoff, what is you all up weight?

[feathermerchant]

I'mgonna guess 11lb.

[Geoff Dryer]

Very close guess. It is actually 10.5 lbs with the Hyperion 6S-5000.
The only modification from stock (other than electric conversion) was for wing bolts. I also added some graphics.

[El Capitán]

Very close guess. It is actually 10.5 lbs with the Hyperion 6S-5000.
The only modification from stock (other than electric conversion) was for wing bolts. I also added some graphics.

What are your flight times with your setup? Would a AXI 2820/12 be enough power?

[Geoff Dryer]

If I just drift around the sky then I can get upwards of 20 minutes. If I try and fly it like a 3D plane (hover etc.) then about 10 minutes. With the 17x8 propeller It will draw 1300 watts at WOT. The AXI 4130 is way overkill for the ST. It should be able to fly on 70 watts per pound.

[tulz43]

What c rating are your batteries?

[Geoff Dryer]

My batteries are the Hyperion LVX 6S-5000 (20C). I also use these batteries (2 at a time) in my Hyperion YAK 180

[frankswd]

I fly mine ST , on the AXI 4130/20 and adjust the cell count up to 30 nimhs and prop 17-20 inch range to the task, this gave me enough power to tow gliders up to 100 inches. A little overkill never hurts. The telemaster can take a lot of wieght and still be a floater :) why pay for lipos?

[tulz43]

I'm running a BP hobbies motor wish is pretty close to the axi 3130/20 on a 14x7 prop and 7 cells. However they are only 10c batteries so I had to keep the amps down.

But now I have a pair of 4s5000 evo25's that I'm trying to sell but if they dont' sell you better believe they are going in my ST. Nothing wrong with going vertical.

frankswd...because everything else is old school :)

[frankswd]

I think with the space in the ST I would consider A123 cells, at least they won't burn down the house and they're new school too dude :)

[tulz43]

I think with the space in the ST I would consider A123 cells, at least they won't burn down the house and they're new school too dude :)


Haha... agreed. I just didn't want to go thru the trouble of building them.

btw... house is still standing and I've never puffed a pack. (knock on wood)

[frankswd]

wish I could say the same. burned up my SUV and some planes and my awsome charger! I must say, MAXAMPS was cool enough to replace many of the batteries I lost!!!! So if you're going to have someone make your A123 cells pack, I suggest these good folks that supported a flyer when he was down.

it can certianly happen folks, no BS

[tulz43]

That sucks man. What charger did you use? Any idea why it caught fire?

Also I didn't know maxxamps made a123 packs.

[frankswd]

I switched batteries and didn't check the cell count setting. The battery wasn't completely discharged or the charger would have been able to tell the difference in the cell count. It overcharged it to the point of Bursting. Of course that's not what this thread is about so let's end this here. I"m over it now, my bad-just easy mistake when you use different cell counts and these things happen. CHECK TWICE BE SAFE!
http://www.maxamps.com/products.php?cat=62

[Electraglide]

Hey Guys!
I have a Senior Telemaster RTF version bought a couple of months ago, this is my first large R/C aircraft. Until now I have read most different treads here, but sometime reading more only gets me more confused.
The motor is an AXI 4130/20, the controller is a JETI SPIN 77 OPTO with a JETIBOX and a HP-TICOOL-BEC Switching regulator.
My charger is X-PEAK 220 AC/DC capable of charging 1-5cells (lipos), for balancing I use a Hyperion LBA10NET capable of balancing up to 6 cells.

I was planning to use a 15x8 prop but I’m not sure, suggestions please.
Naturally I’d like to use my charger so witch lipos would you choose?
The electrics is a little mystifying to me, parallel and in series I do understand but what happens with the mAh if I put to lipos in series.

Enough questions for this time, thanks in advance.
Poul.

[feathermerchant]

The AXI 4130/20 will work fine on the STM. Your charger is good for 5S (S=Series) but what battery pack are you planning to use? That will help determine your prop size.

Series means in line, the batteries are connected one after another like how you stack D cells in a flashlight. The available power increases because the voltage increases.

Parallel means side by side like oarsmen working together. Available power increases because current increases.

[frankswd]

AXI 4130/20, the controller is a JETI SPIN 77 OPTO with a JETIBOX and a HP-TICOOL-BEC Switching regulator. On a 5S lipo battery.

I agree that setup will work fine for "regular" flying about. I would expect the prop to be in the 16 to 17 inch diameter. i'm using basically the same setup on my Sig Kedit Senior. i forget which prop is on it but i'll check for you when i get home.

[Electraglide]

Thanks Fethermerchant and Frankswd for your answers.
I'm thinking of starting with a Kokam 30-60C Li-Po 4000SHD 18,5Volt 5 cells, or two Li-Po 4000SHD 14,8volts 4 cells in series for more power, that would then bee aprox. 29,6volts 8C2P??? Am I right? What do you think. Should these two batteries be hooked up trough some special contraption so that I kan separate them for charging?
Another dumb question, would it be poss. to hook up two Lipos of diff. vallue, like; a 4000mAh 18,5 volt and a 3S 2000 mAh 11,1volt thereby making it a 29,6 volt pack or would I fry something? :confused:

Frankswd; I'd be happy to know your Prop size and what batteries you are usingin your Sig Kadet Sr.

Regards Poul.

[kelberts]

Kelberts,That's a great F18,looks to be fiberglass or?Any info on it?


Sorry for the incredibly late reply!!

The F/A-18 is a Haoye, all foam, 45" WS. Powered by 2 70mm fans, but a lot of guys use 2 90mm fans. There's a long thread in the foamy edf forum about the jet, under "big F(oamy)A/-18".

Available lots of places for around $170.00

As an update, now flying the Telemaster on 6S A123, and it's still insanely overpowered with the E-flight 60. Could really just use 4S and a "46" size outrunner. I always get ragged on for my non-scale takeoffs - lol!!

[hermperez]

dont try to hook those packs together, you will fry something..

things you can do:

hook up a 5s 4000 and a 3s 4000 in series.. you will end up with an 8s 4000

hook up a 5s 4000 and a 5s 2000 in parallel, you will end up with a 5s 6000

if you have not purchased your lipos yet I would strongly recommend using A123 cells.. sell your charger and get a correct one.

Another dumb question, would it be poss. to hook up two Lipos of diff. vallue, like; a 4000mAh 18,5 volt and a 3S 2000 mAh 11,1volt thereby making it a 29,6 volt pack or would I fry something? :confused:

Regards Poul.

[Electraglide]

Thanks Hermperes, what is the pros and cons of A123 vs. lipo apart from the lipos being more delicate?
I belive that my charger (X-PEAK 220 AC/DC) can handle A123's when using the (Hyperion LBA10NET)balancers setting for A123.

Regards Poul.

[kelberts]

A123s charge in 15 minutes, and are cheaper than lipos. They weigh more for the same power out, and are usually physically bigger..

[Electraglide]

Thanks Kelberts, I think I'll go with Hermanperes's rec. A123 for my STM, now that I know the diff.
Looks like spring is comming early here in southern Denmark, very nice weather and shure enough I'm down with the flu. :mad:
Regards Poul.

[frankswd]

One BIG TIME difference this that Lipos WILL explode, and catch FIRE!

Esp, if you are not big into electrical knoweldge and even if you are. There is a BIG risk factor using lipos! I know, I burned my own truck to the point of salvage value ONLY. Yes, I still use them but do treat them with respect. There's no stopping the fact we are human and make mistakes.