Need some help getting started [Archive]

funfly3

Apr 21, 2007, 03:11 PM

bob wrote:
> I want to start flying rc helicopters, but have no one to help me get
> started. Can anyone recommend a kit that will help me learn the basics
> of assembly and setup, plus be a popular model for replacement parts? I
> realize this is not the recommended way to go, but either I do it on my
> on, or I'll never get into the hobby at all. Every time I try to pick
> out a model, all the options are overwhelming, and I just give up. Wish
> I could just buy one and go with it. Time and money are not a problem,
> and I've been flying RealFlight G3 for a year or more (upgraded to 3.5).
> One of the best heli pilots in the world lives here, but I've never even
> seen him, and I'm sure he's way too busy to help a beginner. Our local
> rc club has no heli members, so no help there. I've flown rc planes and
> have a pilots license, but I just don't know anything about helicopters.
> Any and all opinions welcome.
> Thanks,
>
> bob baldwin
>
> bob-baldwin@tamu.edu
>
> bryan/college station, texas
first of all a few questions Nitro or electric? indoor outdoor? large
small?
assuming you will want an easy model to fly outside go for a 30+ sized
nitro or a 400 or bigger electric

bob

Apr 21, 2007, 04:32 PM

I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too
quickly. I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer flight
times needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of the
question at all. I really don't have a preference there. I understand
that some kits have better instructions, some have higher quality parts,
and so on. I guess the bottom line is a quality, popular outdoor kit
with clear instructions and parts availability. I don't mind ordering
and waiting for parts after a crash. We don't have a real hobby shop
here anyway - they never stay in business very long with internet
competition.

Thanks!

bob baldwin
bryan/college station, texas

funfly3 wrote:
> bob wrote:
>> I want to start flying rc helicopters, but have no one to help me get
>> started. Can anyone recommend a kit that will help me learn the basics
>> of assembly and setup, plus be a popular model for replacement parts?
>> I realize this is not the recommended way to go, but either I do it on
>> my on, or I'll never get into the hobby at all. Every time I try to
>> pick out a model, all the options are overwhelming, and I just give
>> up. Wish I could just buy one and go with it. Time and money are not a
>> problem, and I've been flying RealFlight G3 for a year or more
>> (upgraded to 3.5). One of the best heli pilots in the world lives
>> here, but I've never even seen him, and I'm sure he's way too busy to
>> help a beginner. Our local rc club has no heli members, so no help
>> there. I've flown rc planes and have a pilots license, but I just
>> don't know anything about helicopters. Any and all opinions welcome.
>> Thanks,
>>
>> bob baldwin
>>
>> bob-baldwin@tamu.edu
>>
>> bryan/college station, texas
> first of all a few questions Nitro or electric? indoor outdoor? large
> small?
> assuming you will want an easy model to fly outside go for a 30+ sized
> nitro or a 400 or bigger electric

Fritz the cat

Apr 21, 2007, 05:27 PM

bob wrote:
> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too
> quickly. I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer flight
> times needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of the
> question at all. I really don't have a preference there. I understand
> that some kits have better instructions, some have higher quality parts,
> and so on. I guess the bottom line is a quality, popular outdoor kit
> with clear instructions and parts availability. I don't mind ordering
> and waiting for parts after a crash. We don't have a real hobby shop
> here anyway - they never stay in business very long with internet
> competition.
>
> Thanks!
>
> bob baldwin
> bryan/college station, texas
>

My recommentations:

Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
fuel, Tools etc.

http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
http://www.runryder.com for lots more help

Fritz

Steve R

Apr 21, 2007, 09:57 PM

Bob,

I'm going to email you on this one!

Steve R.

"bob" <bob-baldwin@tamu.edu> wrote in message
news:yrsWh.35755$NK5.34605@newsfe23.lga...
>I want to start flying rc helicopters, but have no one to help me get
>started. Can anyone recommend a kit that will help me learn the basics of
>assembly and setup, plus be a popular model for replacement parts? I
>realize this is not the recommended way to go, but either I do it on my on,
>or I'll never get into the hobby at all. Every time I try to pick out a
>model, all the options are overwhelming, and I just give up. Wish I could
>just buy one and go with it. Time and money are not a problem, and I've
>been flying RealFlight G3 for a year or more (upgraded to 3.5). One of the
>best heli pilots in the world lives here, but I've never even seen him, and
>I'm sure he's way too busy to help a beginner. Our local rc club has no
>heli members, so no help there. I've flown rc planes and have a pilots
>license, but I just don't know anything about helicopters. Any and all
>opinions welcome.
> Thanks,
>
> bob baldwin
>
> bob-baldwin@tamu.edu
>
> bryan/college station, texas

G-Dawg

Apr 22, 2007, 12:35 AM

"Fritz the cat" <techrep@cox.net> wrote in message
news:%kvWh.19053$OT4.16335@newsfe19.lga...
> bob wrote:
>> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too quickly.
>> I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer flight times
>> needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of the question at
>> all. I really don't have a preference there. I understand that some kits
>> have better instructions, some have higher quality parts, and so on. I
>> guess the bottom line is a quality, popular outdoor kit with clear
>> instructions and parts availability. I don't mind ordering and waiting
>> for parts after a crash. We don't have a real hobby shop here anyway -
>> they never stay in business very long with internet competition.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> bob baldwin
>> bryan/college station, texas
>>
>
>
> My recommentations:
>
> Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
> Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
> Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
> Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
> GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
> fuel, Tools etc.
>
> http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
> http://www.runryder.com for lots more help
>
>
> Fritz

Bob,

I second Fritz on this, exactly. The Raptor 50 Titan is an awesome machine
from beginner to 3-D.

I started with a T-Rex 450SE electric, no regrets there either. The Raptor
though is such a wonderful machine. It is a thrill to fly and it is very
stable for a beginner as well.

Definitely check out www.helifreak.com as well. Much good information and
discussion there on all the helis.

Enjoy!
Gary

funfly3

Apr 22, 2007, 03:31 AM

G-Dawg wrote:
> "Fritz the cat" <techrep@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:%kvWh.19053$OT4.16335@newsfe19.lga...
>> bob wrote:
>>> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too quickly.
>>> I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer flight times
>>> needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of the question at
>>> all. I really don't have a preference there. I understand that some kits
>>> have better instructions, some have higher quality parts, and so on. I
>>> guess the bottom line is a quality, popular outdoor kit with clear
>>> instructions and parts availability. I don't mind ordering and waiting
>>> for parts after a crash. We don't have a real hobby shop here anyway -
>>> they never stay in business very long with internet competition.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>> bob baldwin
>>> bryan/college station, texas
>>>
>>
>> My recommentations:
>>
>> Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
>> Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
>> Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
>> Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
>> GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
>> fuel, Tools etc.
>>
>> http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
>> http://www.runryder.com for lots more help
>>
>>
>> Fritz
>
> Bob,
>
> I second Fritz on this, exactly. The Raptor 50 Titan is an awesome machine
> from beginner to 3-D.
>
> I started with a T-Rex 450SE electric, no regrets there either. The Raptor
> though is such a wonderful machine. It is a thrill to fly and it is very
> stable for a beginner as well.
>
> Definitely check out www.helifreak.com as well. Much good information and
> discussion there on all the helis.
>
> Enjoy!
> Gary
>
>
the only trouble with the big nitro's is the damage they will do if you
manage to fly into yourself or any thing else, and going down the lone
flyer route its always going to be an option

Steve R

Apr 22, 2007, 06:45 AM

"funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:obEWh.2095$V7.97@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
> G-Dawg wrote:
>> "Fritz the cat" <techrep@cox.net> wrote in message
>> news:%kvWh.19053$OT4.16335@newsfe19.lga...
>>> bob wrote:
>>>> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too
>>>> quickly. I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer flight
>>>> times needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of the
>>>> question at all. I really don't have a preference there. I understand
>>>> that some kits have better instructions, some have higher quality
>>>> parts, and so on. I guess the bottom line is a quality, popular outdoor
>>>> kit with clear instructions and parts availability. I don't mind
>>>> ordering and waiting for parts after a crash. We don't have a real
>>>> hobby shop here anyway - they never stay in business very long with
>>>> internet competition.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks!
>>>>
>>>> bob baldwin
>>>> bryan/college station, texas
>>>>
>>>
>>> My recommentations:
>>>
>>> Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
>>> Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
>>> Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
>>> Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
>>> GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
>>> fuel, Tools etc.
>>>
>>> http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
>>> http://www.runryder.com for lots more help
>>>
>>>
>>> Fritz
>>
>> Bob,
>>
>> I second Fritz on this, exactly. The Raptor 50 Titan is an awesome
>> machine from beginner to 3-D.
>>
>> I started with a T-Rex 450SE electric, no regrets there either. The
>> Raptor though is such a wonderful machine. It is a thrill to fly and it
>> is very stable for a beginner as well.
>>
>> Definitely check out www.helifreak.com as well. Much good information and
>> discussion there on all the helis.
>>
>> Enjoy!
>> Gary
> the only trouble with the big nitro's is the damage they will do if you
> manage to fly into yourself or any thing else, and going down the lone
> flyer route its always going to be an option

True! However, all it takes is a little common sense to virtually eliminate
that possibility. And by the way, don't underestimate the damage a T-Rex
can do if that 2500 to 3000 rpm rotor system hits you in the face or neck.
I'm not trying to scare anyone away but these things can and "do" kill under
the right circumstances. Always keep that in mind when operating them.

On the going it alone option, I bought my first RC helicopter and learned to
fly in 1982. Back then there were relatively few heli pilots around that
could hover, much less fly around and do basic loops, rolls, and
autorotations. Only one or two of the few I managed to meet were willing to
offer any help at all because they didn't know much more than I did. Home
PC's were still rare. Simulators and the Internet were nonexistent. I did
get help with radio and engine setups from the fixed wing pilots at our
local RC club and that helped immensely but beyond that I was on my own for
learning to actually trim and fly the model. My point is that in this day
and time, with "all" the resources that are readily available to us, there's
absolutely no reason to do this alone. There are plenty of folks willing to
offer advise and help with setups and first flight trims. Depending on
where you live, you might have to drive a couple of hours to meet someone
but a day or week end spent in that pursuit can pay back dividends a
newcomer probably can't even imagine.

Please don't go paying some individual at the field for this either. There
have been some flight schools around that are good if you've got the option
but I'm not currently aware of any of them that are still in operation.
I've had help from any number of sources through the years and none of them
charged me for it. The only pay back they required was that, as part of a
hobby that we're in for the "fun" of, I simply pass on the knowledge when
someone comes to me. That's the only thing I'll ask of you when the time
comes.

FWIW! :-)

Fly Safe,
Steve R.

funfly3

Apr 22, 2007, 10:03 AM

Steve R wrote:
> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:obEWh.2095$V7.97@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
>> G-Dawg wrote:
>>> "Fritz the cat" <techrep@cox.net> wrote in message
>>> news:%kvWh.19053$OT4.16335@newsfe19.lga...
>>>> bob wrote:
>>>>> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too
>>>>> quickly. I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer flight
>>>>> times needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of the
>>>>> question at all. I really don't have a preference there. I understand
>>>>> that some kits have better instructions, some have higher quality
>>>>> parts, and so on. I guess the bottom line is a quality, popular outdoor
>>>>> kit with clear instructions and parts availability. I don't mind
>>>>> ordering and waiting for parts after a crash. We don't have a real
>>>>> hobby shop here anyway - they never stay in business very long with
>>>>> internet competition.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> bob baldwin
>>>>> bryan/college station, texas
>>>>>
>>>> My recommentations:
>>>>
>>>> Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
>>>> Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
>>>> Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
>>>> Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
>>>> GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
>>>> fuel, Tools etc.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
>>>> http://www.runryder.com for lots more help
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Fritz
>>> Bob,
>>>
>>> I second Fritz on this, exactly. The Raptor 50 Titan is an awesome
>>> machine from beginner to 3-D.
>>>
>>> I started with a T-Rex 450SE electric, no regrets there either. The
>>> Raptor though is such a wonderful machine. It is a thrill to fly and it
>>> is very stable for a beginner as well.
>>>
>>> Definitely check out www.helifreak.com as well. Much good information and
>>> discussion there on all the helis.
>>>
>>> Enjoy!
>>> Gary
>> the only trouble with the big nitro's is the damage they will do if you
>> manage to fly into yourself or any thing else, and going down the lone
>> flyer route its always going to be an option
>
> True! However, all it takes is a little common sense to virtually eliminate
> that possibility. And by the way, don't underestimate the damage a T-Rex
> can do if that 2500 to 3000 rpm rotor system hits you in the face or neck.
> I'm not trying to scare anyone away but these things can and "do" kill under
> the right circumstances. Always keep that in mind when operating them.
>
> On the going it alone option, I bought my first RC helicopter and learned to
> fly in 1982. Back then there were relatively few heli pilots around that
> could hover, much less fly around and do basic loops, rolls, and
> autorotations. Only one or two of the few I managed to meet were willing to
> offer any help at all because they didn't know much more than I did. Home
> PC's were still rare. Simulators and the Internet were nonexistent. I did
> get help with radio and engine setups from the fixed wing pilots at our
> local RC club and that helped immensely but beyond that I was on my own for
> learning to actually trim and fly the model. My point is that in this day
> and time, with "all" the resources that are readily available to us, there's
> absolutely no reason to do this alone. There are plenty of folks willing to
> offer advise and help with setups and first flight trims. Depending on
> where you live, you might have to drive a couple of hours to meet someone
> but a day or week end spent in that pursuit can pay back dividends a
> newcomer probably can't even imagine.
>
> Please don't go paying some individual at the field for this either. There
> have been some flight schools around that are good if you've got the option
> but I'm not currently aware of any of them that are still in operation.
> I've had help from any number of sources through the years and none of them
> charged me for it. The only pay back they required was that, as part of a
> hobby that we're in for the "fun" of, I simply pass on the knowledge when
> someone comes to me. That's the only thing I'll ask of you when the time
> comes.
>
> FWIW! :-)
>
> Fly Safe,
> Steve R.
>
>
I more or less have been on my own I brought a set up Nexus, after
having a lot of stick time on a simulator, the Nexus had a test flight
by another club member and I have been on my own since as its very
difficult to buddy box a heli even though I have the cables and spare TX
so we have not even tried, but I brought a T-Rex and built an test
flown it and have only managed two boom strikes so far as I was to tight
to buy a smaller training aid but I can hover a battery flat and do
simple circuits , but I do fine the Nexus a scary beast up close in the
hover
I would recommend if possible for some body else who can fly to set up
your first one

Nigel Heather

Apr 22, 2007, 10:13 AM

The Rapto is a great heli that meets your criteria very well - I have a
Raptor 50 myself.

The only other advice if you are going to be flying at a club is to see what
the club members are flying.

I started out with A Century Hawk - I still maintain that this is a great
heli with advantages and disadvantages over the Raptor.

The problem was that my club was almost all Raptor. Whilst no one was
openly unhelpful I did feel that I wasn't one of the club because I hadn't
gone for their heli of choice.

When I changed to a Raptor I found the club got a whole lot friendlier -
there was plenty of hands on practical experience - and if I do have any
minor problems during the day I guarantee that someone has the spare that I
need to keep me in the air for the rest of the day.

So check out the favourite flavour down the club and go with that.

Cheers,

Nigel

"Fritz the cat" <techrep@cox.net> wrote in message
news:%kvWh.19053$OT4.16335@newsfe19.lga...
> bob wrote:
>> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too quickly.
>> I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer flight times
>> needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of the question at
>> all. I really don't have a preference there. I understand that some kits
>> have better instructions, some have higher quality parts, and so on. I
>> guess the bottom line is a quality, popular outdoor kit with clear
>> instructions and parts availability. I don't mind ordering and waiting
>> for parts after a crash. We don't have a real hobby shop here anyway -
>> they never stay in business very long with internet competition.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> bob baldwin
>> bryan/college station, texas
>>
>
>
> My recommentations:
>
> Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
> Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
> Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
> Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
> GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
> fuel, Tools etc.
>
> http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
> http://www.runryder.com for lots more help
>
>
> Fritz

G-Dawg

Apr 22, 2007, 10:14 AM

"Steve R" <srhodes13@houston.rr.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:462b3c9b$0$5808$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:obEWh.2095$V7.97@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
>> G-Dawg wrote:
>>> "Fritz the cat" <techrep@cox.net> wrote in message
>>> news:%kvWh.19053$OT4.16335@newsfe19.lga...
>>>> bob wrote:
>>>>> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too
>>>>> quickly. I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer
>>>>> flight times needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of
>>>>> the question at all. I really don't have a preference there. I
>>>>> understand that some kits have better instructions, some have higher
>>>>> quality parts, and so on. I guess the bottom line is a quality,
>>>>> popular outdoor kit with clear instructions and parts availability. I
>>>>> don't mind ordering and waiting for parts after a crash. We don't have
>>>>> a real hobby shop here anyway - they never stay in business very long
>>>>> with internet competition.
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> bob baldwin
>>>>> bryan/college station, texas
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> My recommentations:
>>>>
>>>> Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
>>>> Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
>>>> Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
>>>> Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
>>>> GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
>>>> fuel, Tools etc.
>>>>
>>>> http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
>>>> http://www.runryder.com for lots more help
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Fritz
>>>
>>> Bob,
>>>
>>> I second Fritz on this, exactly. The Raptor 50 Titan is an awesome
>>> machine from beginner to 3-D.
>>>
>>> I started with a T-Rex 450SE electric, no regrets there either. The
>>> Raptor though is such a wonderful machine. It is a thrill to fly and it
>>> is very stable for a beginner as well.
>>>
>>> Definitely check out www.helifreak.com as well. Much good information
>>> and discussion there on all the helis.
>>>
>>> Enjoy!
>>> Gary
>> the only trouble with the big nitro's is the damage they will do if you
>> manage to fly into yourself or any thing else, and going down the lone
>> flyer route its always going to be an option
>
> True! However, all it takes is a little common sense to virtually
> eliminate that possibility. And by the way, don't underestimate the
> damage a T-Rex can do if that 2500 to 3000 rpm rotor system hits you in
> the face or neck. I'm not trying to scare anyone away but these things can
> and "do" kill under the right circumstances. Always keep that in mind when
> operating them.
>
> On the going it alone option, I bought my first RC helicopter and learned
> to fly in 1982. Back then there were relatively few heli pilots around
> that could hover, much less fly around and do basic loops, rolls, and
> autorotations. Only one or two of the few I managed to meet were willing
> to offer any help at all because they didn't know much more than I did.
> Home PC's were still rare. Simulators and the Internet were nonexistent.
> I did get help with radio and engine setups from the fixed wing pilots at
> our local RC club and that helped immensely but beyond that I was on my
> own for learning to actually trim and fly the model. My point is that in
> this day and time, with "all" the resources that are readily available to
> us, there's absolutely no reason to do this alone. There are plenty of
> folks willing to offer advise and help with setups and first flight trims.
> Depending on where you live, you might have to drive a couple of hours to
> meet someone but a day or week end spent in that pursuit can pay back
> dividends a newcomer probably can't even imagine.
>
> Please don't go paying some individual at the field for this either.
> There have been some flight schools around that are good if you've got the
> option but I'm not currently aware of any of them that are still in
> operation. I've had help from any number of sources through the years and
> none of them charged me for it. The only pay back they required was that,
> as part of a hobby that we're in for the "fun" of, I simply pass on the
> knowledge when someone comes to me. That's the only thing I'll ask of you
> when the time comes.
>
> FWIW! :-)
>
> Fly Safe,
> Steve R.
As Steve says... Any of the "serious" R/C helicopters will cause some nasty
bodily damage. Just listen to the main blades screaming (even on the T-Rex)
and if it doesn't give you some respect, this is not your game.

If you want to start off smaller, go the T-Rex 450 (or similar) route.
Anything smaller will have plastic ball links in the head, have smaller
rotor disk area (making it harder to handle), etc.

I was going to go "the Blade CP way" for my starter heli. The more research
I did, the happier I was buying the T-Rex.

It's not cheap, nothing really good is. Make the investment if you can, jump
in. If you don't like it you can always sell and recoupe some money as there
is a growing heli crowd.

-Gary

bob

Apr 22, 2007, 05:13 PM

Fritz,
Thanks for your recommendation, and thanks to everyone else that
responded (Gary, funfly3, Nigel, and Steve) - lots of good info here.
I've spent the day checking web sites for the items you have all listed.
Steve R (here in Texas) sent an e-mail that I need to answer now, so
thanks again to everyone - I've made a list of the kits and accessories
that each of you mentioned. Time for some serious research!

bob baldwin
bob-baldwin@tamu.edu
wa5jot@suddenlink.net
bryan/college station, texas

Fritz the cat wrote:
> bob wrote:
>> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too
>> quickly. I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer
>> flight times needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of
>> the question at all. I really don't have a preference there. I
>> understand that some kits have better instructions, some have higher
>> quality parts, and so on. I guess the bottom line is a quality,
>> popular outdoor kit with clear instructions and parts availability. I
>> don't mind ordering and waiting for parts after a crash. We don't have
>> a real hobby shop here anyway - they never stay in business very long
>> with internet competition.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> bob baldwin
>> bryan/college station, texas
>>
>
>
> My recommentations:
>
> Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
> Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
> Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
> Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
> GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
> fuel, Tools etc.
>
> http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
> http://www.runryder.com for lots more help
>
>
> Fritz

Steve R

Apr 22, 2007, 07:31 PM

"funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
> I have been on my own since as its very difficult to buddy box a heli
> even though I have the cables and spare TX so we have not even tried,

Actually, buddy boxing a helicopter isn't that big a deal. I've been buddy
boxing three different guys in the past 6 months. One is hover only and the
other two working into forward flight and aerobatics. It's not 100%. We've
still managed to crash a couple of times but I've also been able to save
them hundreds of dollars at least when they got disoriented at some point.

The process is pretty simple. Match programs between the master and slave
transmitters. Put the bird on the ground, confirm throttle down, instructor
gives control to student, student spools up the rotor system and attempts
the take off. Obviously, we keep a discreet distance from the model at this
point. I'm also "very" conservative at how far I allow the student to get
out of hand before taking it away from them, at least at first. Once I get
a feel for where the student is in their flight skills, I can let them go a
little farther before taking over. As an instructor, I need to give them a
chance to fix things themselves and as long as it's not careening toward the
ground or toward other people / property then I'll try to give the student
some leeway.

Probably the hardest part for me when we first started doing this was "not"
try to fly the helicopter when the student had control. There were a couple
of times that the student was loosing it and I was unconsciously holding a
correction to fix it even though I hadn't released the trainer switch yet.
When I finally did release the trainer switch, the model reacted immediately
to the control inputs I was holding. The end result was a "surprising"
lurch in the opposite direction that had me over controlling for a while
until I settled down again. Now, when the student lifts off, I move the
throttle to some point slightly higher than required for hover and leave the
cyclic and tail controls at neutral. That way, when I take it from the
student, any oddball control input they're holding goes neutral, the model
settles at whatever attitude it's in, and "then" I can correct back to level
without all the added gymnastics on the controls. It works pretty good,
actually! Once I take control, I bring the model back to the starting
point, land it, confirm throttle down again, give control back to the
student and start over.

If you've got someone around you with the confidence to try then go for it.
It does take some getting used to on both sides and the student needs to
understand that there's no guaranty. You still might crash but chances are
a lot better that you won't.

FWIW!

Fly Safe,
Steve R.

Steve R

Apr 22, 2007, 07:39 PM

"Nigel Heather the-heathers.co.uk>" <nigel@<NO_SPAM> wrote in message
news:462b6d31$0$29149$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
> When I changed to a Raptor I found the club got a whole lot friendlier -
> there was plenty of hands on practical experience - and if I do have any
> minor problems during the day I guarantee that someone has the spare that
> I need to keep me in the air for the rest of the day.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Nigel
>

That's something that's always gotten me. Why some folks are so intimidated
by a machine that's not exactly like theirs. For the most part, a
helicopter is a helicopter is a helicopter. Yes, there are different
designs out there, difference control configurations but collective is still
collective and cyclic is still cyclic. Be it a Raptor, X-Cell,
Robbe/Schluter, Vario, Kyosho, Hirobo, Kalt, Century, 30 size, 60 size, 90
size, or anything else you care to name, the basic control setup procedures
are pretty much the same.

Center the servos, center bell cranks and linkages, center the swashplate in
it's travel, and set the appropriate collective pitch. Make sure all
controls work smoothly and in the correct direction without binding at the
extremes and go fly!

:-)

Fly Safe,
Steve R.

funfly3

Apr 23, 2007, 04:59 AM

Steve R wrote:
> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>> I have been on my own since as its very difficult to buddy box a heli
>> even though I have the cables and spare TX so we have not even tried,
>
> Actually, buddy boxing a helicopter isn't that big a deal. I've been buddy
> boxing three different guys in the past 6 months. One is hover only and the
> other two working into forward flight and aerobatics. It's not 100%. We've
> still managed to crash a couple of times but I've also been able to save
> them hundreds of dollars at least when they got disoriented at some point.
>
sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200
odd feet as you have time to react.
as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
turn up its very rarely an option for me
> The process is pretty simple. Match programs between the master and slave
> transmitters. Put the bird on the ground, confirm throttle down, instructor
> gives control to student, student spools up the rotor system and attempts
> the take off. Obviously, we keep a discreet distance from the model at this
> point. I'm also "very" conservative at how far I allow the student to get
> out of hand before taking it away from them, at least at first. Once I get
> a feel for where the student is in their flight skills, I can let them go a
> little farther before taking over. As an instructor, I need to give them a
> chance to fix things themselves and as long as it's not careening toward the
> ground or toward other people / property then I'll try to give the student
> some leeway.
>
> Probably the hardest part for me when we first started doing this was "not"
> try to fly the helicopter when the student had control. There were a couple
> of times that the student was loosing it and I was unconsciously holding a
> correction to fix it even though I hadn't released the trainer switch yet.
> When I finally did release the trainer switch, the model reacted immediately
> to the control inputs I was holding. The end result was a "surprising"
> lurch in the opposite direction that had me over controlling for a while
> until I settled down again. Now, when the student lifts off, I move the
> throttle to some point slightly higher than required for hover and leave the
> cyclic and tail controls at neutral. That way, when I take it from the
> student, any oddball control input they're holding goes neutral, the model
> settles at whatever attitude it's in, and "then" I can correct back to level
> without all the added gymnastics on the controls. It works pretty good,
> actually! Once I take control, I bring the model back to the starting
> point, land it, confirm throttle down again, give control back to the
> student and start over.
>
> If you've got someone around you with the confidence to try then go for it.
> It does take some getting used to on both sides and the student needs to
> understand that there's no guaranty. You still might crash but chances are
> a lot better that you won't.
>
> FWIW!
>
> Fly Safe,
> Steve R.
>
>

Steve R

Apr 23, 2007, 10:08 AM

"funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Fz_Wh.9004$J64.2654@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
> Steve R wrote:
>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>>> I have been on my own since as its very difficult to buddy box a heli
>>> even though I have the cables and spare TX so we have not even tried,
>>
>> Actually, buddy boxing a helicopter isn't that big a deal. I've been
>> buddy boxing three different guys in the past 6 months. One is hover
>> only and the other two working into forward flight and aerobatics. It's
>> not 100%. We've still managed to crash a couple of times but I've also
>> been able to save them hundreds of dollars at least when they got
>> disoriented at some point.
>>
> sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
> very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200 odd
> feet as you have time to react.
> as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
> turn up its very rarely an option for me

This is true. That's one of the reasons I have to be "real" conservative,
especially at the beginning. Then again, since I am acting as a security
blanket, it's Ok to let the student get the model a bit higher off the
ground. Hovering IGE (in ground effect) is harder to do than OGE (out of
ground effect). It's like trying to balance the machine on a beach ball.
It's always wanting to fall off. Letting the student get the model 3 to 6
feet up helps to steady things a bit and give me a little more reaction time
to catch it if things get crazy.

Anyway, best of luck to you & Fly Safe,
Steve R.

funfly3

Apr 23, 2007, 11:00 AM

Steve R wrote:
> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:Fz_Wh.9004$J64.2654@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>> Steve R wrote:
>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>>>> I have been on my own since as its very difficult to buddy box a heli
>>>> even though I have the cables and spare TX so we have not even tried,
>>> Actually, buddy boxing a helicopter isn't that big a deal. I've been
>>> buddy boxing three different guys in the past 6 months. One is hover
>>> only and the other two working into forward flight and aerobatics. It's
>>> not 100%. We've still managed to crash a couple of times but I've also
>>> been able to save them hundreds of dollars at least when they got
>>> disoriented at some point.
>>>
>> sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
>> very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200 odd
>> feet as you have time to react.
>> as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
>> turn up its very rarely an option for me
>
> This is true. That's one of the reasons I have to be "real" conservative,
> especially at the beginning. Then again, since I am acting as a security
> blanket, it's Ok to let the student get the model a bit higher off the
> ground. Hovering IGE (in ground effect) is harder to do than OGE (out of
> ground effect). It's like trying to balance the machine on a beach ball.
> It's always wanting to fall off. Letting the student get the model 3 to 6
> feet up helps to steady things a bit and give me a little more reaction time
> to catch it if things get crazy.
>
> Anyway, best of luck to you & Fly Safe,
> Steve R.
>
>
I do try but I do find the orientation harder to work out on a heli than
the usual planks I fly, just curious do you fly with sun glasses as I
have heard that if in the right colour can help

G-Dawg

Apr 23, 2007, 11:27 AM

"funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:FS3Xh.2666$Ca7.542@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
> Steve R wrote:
>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> news:Fz_Wh.9004$J64.2654@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>>> Steve R wrote:
>>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>>>>> I have been on my own since as its very difficult to buddy box a heli
>>>>> even though I have the cables and spare TX so we have not even tried,
>>>> Actually, buddy boxing a helicopter isn't that big a deal. I've been
>>>> buddy boxing three different guys in the past 6 months. One is hover
>>>> only and the other two working into forward flight and aerobatics.
>>>> It's not 100%. We've still managed to crash a couple of times but I've
>>>> also been able to save them hundreds of dollars at least when they got
>>>> disoriented at some point.
>>>>
>>> sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
>>> very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200
>>> odd feet as you have time to react.
>>> as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
>>> turn up its very rarely an option for me
>>
>> This is true. That's one of the reasons I have to be "real"
>> conservative, especially at the beginning. Then again, since I am acting
>> as a security blanket, it's Ok to let the student get the model a bit
>> higher off the ground. Hovering IGE (in ground effect) is harder to do
>> than OGE (out of ground effect). It's like trying to balance the machine
>> on a beach ball. It's always wanting to fall off. Letting the student
>> get the model 3 to 6 feet up helps to steady things a bit and give me a
>> little more reaction time to catch it if things get crazy.
>>
>> Anyway, best of luck to you & Fly Safe,
>> Steve R.
> I do try but I do find the orientation harder to work out on a heli than
> the usual planks I fly, just curious do you fly with sun glasses as I have
> heard that if in the right colour can help

Funfly,

It may be just me, as a noob... But I fly with grey polarized prescription
sunglasses. I staring/concentrating on the heli, REAL hard, and many times
it plays tricks on me with orientation. When the T-Rex 450 gets far out,
it's obvious it is hard to see. With my white/stock decaled Raptor 50 I lose
orientation when making turns sometimes and I have to watch the skids. When
it is banking/turning left, sometimes it looks like it could be doing
something else and it freaks me out. I don't know if the polarized has
anything to do with it. Flying without sunglasses does not seem like a good
option.

It's like one of those pictures that you stare at and you can see things,
the heli is the same way to me. I concentrate sooo hard that my mind starts
playing tricks with the way the heli is leaning, etc.

I may change the color to something a really bold so that it stands out
more.

funfly3

Apr 23, 2007, 11:29 AM

G-Dawg wrote:
> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:FS3Xh.2666$Ca7.542@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>> Steve R wrote:
>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Fz_Wh.9004$J64.2654@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>>>> Steve R wrote:
>>>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>>>>>> I have been on my own since as its very difficult to buddy box a heli
>>>>>> even though I have the cables and spare TX so we have not even tried,
>>>>> Actually, buddy boxing a helicopter isn't that big a deal. I've been
>>>>> buddy boxing three different guys in the past 6 months. One is hover
>>>>> only and the other two working into forward flight and aerobatics.
>>>>> It's not 100%. We've still managed to crash a couple of times but I've
>>>>> also been able to save them hundreds of dollars at least when they got
>>>>> disoriented at some point.
>>>>>
>>>> sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
>>>> very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200
>>>> odd feet as you have time to react.
>>>> as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
>>>> turn up its very rarely an option for me
>>> This is true. That's one of the reasons I have to be "real"
>>> conservative, especially at the beginning. Then again, since I am acting
>>> as a security blanket, it's Ok to let the student get the model a bit
>>> higher off the ground. Hovering IGE (in ground effect) is harder to do
>>> than OGE (out of ground effect). It's like trying to balance the machine
>>> on a beach ball. It's always wanting to fall off. Letting the student
>>> get the model 3 to 6 feet up helps to steady things a bit and give me a
>>> little more reaction time to catch it if things get crazy.
>>>
>>> Anyway, best of luck to you & Fly Safe,
>>> Steve R.
>> I do try but I do find the orientation harder to work out on a heli than
>> the usual planks I fly, just curious do you fly with sun glasses as I have
>> heard that if in the right colour can help
>
> Funfly,
>
> It may be just me, as a noob... But I fly with grey polarized prescription
> sunglasses. I staring/concentrating on the heli, REAL hard, and many times
> it plays tricks on me with orientation. When the T-Rex 450 gets far out,
> it's obvious it is hard to see. With my white/stock decaled Raptor 50 I lose
> orientation when making turns sometimes and I have to watch the skids. When
> it is banking/turning left, sometimes it looks like it could be doing
> something else and it freaks me out. I don't know if the polarized has
> anything to do with it. Flying without sunglasses does not seem like a good
> option.
>
> It's like one of those pictures that you stare at and you can see things,
> the heli is the same way to me. I concentrate sooo hard that my mind starts
> playing tricks with the way the heli is leaning, etc.
>
> I may change the color to something a really bold so that it stands out
> more.
>
>
I fly without sunglasses but with normal prescription ones and I quite
often see the yellow ones advertised a being a great help in adding more
contrast to a sky scene, but I have yet to see anyone flying with them
to ask if they do help

Steve R

Apr 23, 2007, 11:34 AM

"funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:FS3Xh.2666$Ca7.542@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
> Steve R wrote:
>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> news:Fz_Wh.9004$J64.2654@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>>> Steve R wrote:
>>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>>>>> I have been on my own since as its very difficult to buddy box a heli
>>>>> even though I have the cables and spare TX so we have not even tried,
>>>> Actually, buddy boxing a helicopter isn't that big a deal. I've been
>>>> buddy boxing three different guys in the past 6 months. One is hover
>>>> only and the other two working into forward flight and aerobatics.
>>>> It's not 100%. We've still managed to crash a couple of times but I've
>>>> also been able to save them hundreds of dollars at least when they got
>>>> disoriented at some point.
>>>>
>>> sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
>>> very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200
>>> odd feet as you have time to react.
>>> as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
>>> turn up its very rarely an option for me
>>
>> This is true. That's one of the reasons I have to be "real"
>> conservative, especially at the beginning. Then again, since I am acting
>> as a security blanket, it's Ok to let the student get the model a bit
>> higher off the ground. Hovering IGE (in ground effect) is harder to do
>> than OGE (out of ground effect). It's like trying to balance the machine
>> on a beach ball. It's always wanting to fall off. Letting the student
>> get the model 3 to 6 feet up helps to steady things a bit and give me a
>> little more reaction time to catch it if things get crazy.
>>
>> Anyway, best of luck to you & Fly Safe,
>> Steve R.
> I do try but I do find the orientation harder to work out on a heli than
> the usual planks I fly, just curious do you fly with sun glasses as I have
> heard that if in the right colour can help

I usually fly with sunglasses but not all the time. Color on the model can
make a big difference in how well you see and orient to it. It's more
important with helicopters than airplanes because we don't have that big
plank of a wing hanging out there to help us tell which way is up. Also,
with airplanes, you "know" it's flying forwards. You don't have to worry
about backwards or sideways.

I like lighter base colors (white and especially yellows) with bright reds,
yellows, greens, or oranges as trims. One guy brought a model to a fun-fly
that was almost totally hot pink (canopy, fins, tail boom, and skids!). He
got ribbed about that a lot but you could see the thing from 2 miles away.
I guess it just depends on how secure you are in your manhood! :-D

Fly Safe,
Steve R.

G-Dawg

Apr 23, 2007, 11:44 AM

"Steve R" <srhodes13@houston.rr.nospam.com> wrote in message
news:462cd220$0$18910$4c368faf@roadrunner.com...
>
> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:FS3Xh.2666$Ca7.542@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>> Steve R wrote:
>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Fz_Wh.9004$J64.2654@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>>>> Steve R wrote:
>>>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>>>>>> I have been on my own since as its very difficult to buddy box a
>>>>>> heli even though I have the cables and spare TX so we have not even
>>>>>> tried,
>>>>> Actually, buddy boxing a helicopter isn't that big a deal. I've been
>>>>> buddy boxing three different guys in the past 6 months. One is hover
>>>>> only and the other two working into forward flight and aerobatics.
>>>>> It's not 100%. We've still managed to crash a couple of times but
>>>>> I've also been able to save them hundreds of dollars at least when
>>>>> they got disoriented at some point.
>>>>>
>>>> sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
>>>> very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200
>>>> odd feet as you have time to react.
>>>> as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots
>>>> that turn up its very rarely an option for me
>>>
>>> This is true. That's one of the reasons I have to be "real"
>>> conservative, especially at the beginning. Then again, since I am
>>> acting as a security blanket, it's Ok to let the student get the model a
>>> bit higher off the ground. Hovering IGE (in ground effect) is harder to
>>> do than OGE (out of ground effect). It's like trying to balance the
>>> machine on a beach ball. It's always wanting to fall off. Letting the
>>> student get the model 3 to 6 feet up helps to steady things a bit and
>>> give me a little more reaction time to catch it if things get crazy.
>>>
>>> Anyway, best of luck to you & Fly Safe,
>>> Steve R.
>> I do try but I do find the orientation harder to work out on a heli than
>> the usual planks I fly, just curious do you fly with sun glasses as I
>> have heard that if in the right colour can help
>
> I usually fly with sunglasses but not all the time. Color on the model
> can make a big difference in how well you see and orient to it. It's more
> important with helicopters than airplanes because we don't have that big
> plank of a wing hanging out there to help us tell which way is up. Also,
> with airplanes, you "know" it's flying forwards. You don't have to worry
> about backwards or sideways.
>
> I like lighter base colors (white and especially yellows) with bright
> reds, yellows, greens, or oranges as trims. One guy brought a model to a
> fun-fly that was almost totally hot pink (canopy, fins, tail boom, and
> skids!). He got ribbed about that a lot but you could see the thing from
> 2 miles away. I guess it just depends on how secure you are in your
> manhood! :-D
>
> Fly Safe,
> Steve R.
>
We had a guy bring his flourescent orange plane to the field this weekend
and he took a beating (all in good fun). But again, you could really see
that thing!

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

Apr 23, 2007, 12:39 PM

On Sun, 22 Apr 2007 07:31:32 GMT, funfly3 <dontemailme@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

>the only trouble with the big nitro's is the damage they will do if you
>manage to fly into yourself or any thing else, and going down the lone
>flyer route its always going to be an option

The damage potential for the smaller electrics is there as well... A
Trex 450 with a headspeed of 3000 RPM will do quite a bit of damage to
flesh and bone as evidenced by several pics of said damage on the net.

Nigel Heather

Apr 23, 2007, 12:41 PM

I don't think they are intimidated - I think they are a little affronted -
"Why didn't you get the heli we advised" - "Thought you wanted to be in our
club, why are you being different".

It's not right but if they are the guys with the experience and expertise
that you want to take advantage of sometimes it is just better to "bend with
the wind".

Cheers,

Nigel

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

Apr 23, 2007, 12:44 PM

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 08:59:17 GMT, funfly3 <dontemailme@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...

>sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
>very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200
>odd feet as you have time to react.
>as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
> turn up its very rarely an option for me

You don't want to practice hovering at 6 inches. Get the thing up out
of ground effect and it'll be easier to control.

Steve R

Apr 23, 2007, 01:19 PM

"The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" <skiddz "AT" adelphia "DOT" net> wrote in
message news:chop2351j1qr44gg2p862hgftg432v8g3a@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 08:59:17 GMT, funfly3 <dontemailme@ntlworld.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>
>>sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
>>very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200
>>odd feet as you have time to react.
>>as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
>> turn up its very rarely an option for me
>
> You don't want to practice hovering at 6 inches. Get the thing up out
> of ground effect and it'll be easier to control.

That depends on where you're at. I agree, it's easier to control a bit
higher up but most beginners can't control altitude that well and if you get
too high, all the training gear in the world is going to be useless. At the
"very" beginning, keep it low. If you get out of hand, cut power and land.
Once the student can start to control things in the 6 to 12 inch altitude
range, getting higher off the ground will be a no brainer.

JMOOC! :-)

Fly Safe,
Steve R.

funfly3

Apr 23, 2007, 03:16 PM

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego wrote:
> On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 08:59:17 GMT, funfly3 <dontemailme@ntlworld.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>> "funfly3" <dontemailme@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> news:BWJWh.7692$M_3.332@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...
>
>> sorry what I meant but did not type is a heli hovering at six inches is
>> very difficult to save with a buddy box, its easier on a plane at 200
>> odd feet as you have time to react.
>> as most of the time at my club there are hardly ever any helipilots that
>> turn up its very rarely an option for me
>
> You don't want to practice hovering at 6 inches. Get the thing up out
> of ground effect and it'll be easier to control.
but you need to go through 6 inches on the way up and on the way down ;-)

bob

May 17, 2007, 01:07 PM

Hey Fritz!

I took your advice and ordered the Titan kit with 401 combo gyro, 9252
servos, Hyper engine and DX7. When the radio came in, it turned out to
be a mode 1, so it's been sent back for exchange. The heli is ready for
the radio/servo installation, so just waiting for the replacement DX7 to
arrive. I used raptortechnique.com to help with the assembly - much of
the manual was not clear to me at all. Still have a list of things to
order before I can even start the thing, so I'd better place an order
soon. Thanks again for everyone that offered advice and opinions.

bob baldwin
bryan/college station, texas

Fritz the cat wrote:
> bob wrote:
>> I would prefer a large outdoor model that I wouldn't outgrow too
>> quickly. I have been told to go with nitro because of the longer
>> flight times needed to learn the basics, but an electric is not out of
>> the question at all. I really don't have a preference there. I
>> understand that some kits have better instructions, some have higher
>> quality parts, and so on. I guess the bottom line is a quality,
>> popular outdoor kit with clear instructions and parts availability. I
>> don't mind ordering and waiting for parts after a crash. We don't have
>> a real hobby shop here anyway - they never stay in business very long
>> with internet competition.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> bob baldwin
>> bryan/college station, texas
>>
>
>
> My recommentations:
>
> Radio: Spektrum DX7 (sell the servos and battery)
> Servos: Futaba 9252 (3x) and a std one for Throttle
> Gyro: Futaba 401 with servo combo
> Heli: Raptor 50 Titan with OS50 Hyper and Hatori muffler
> GSE: Good charger like the ICE or Triton, 3000mah Rx battery, 30% synth
> fuel, Tools etc.
>
> http://www.raptortechnique.com for Raptor Info
> http://www.runryder.com for lots more help
>
>
> Fritz