Gadget's Never-Ending Eco 8 rebuild

[Gadget01]

After flying this cool bird a few months, I cannot seem to help getting caught in upgrading. The last batch of upgrade parts include CF frame sides, alum tail pulley tower, anti-rotation bracket, hardened main and tail shafts, alum tailboom clamps, etc. On the way, and probably to complete the process (dare I say) is the alum rotor head.

Anyways... this is the progress so far:

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04113.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04117.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04119.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04121.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04129.jpg

[Gadget01]

I also decided to change the swashplate servo arrangement- I had the left/right servos to the rear originally. I've finished new servo mounting brackets for one side- now, just have to duplicate for the other and then the rebuild should progress much faster.

[RC4ZEKE]

Can't wait till my Eco looks like that!:)

Do you plan on putting cf or aluminum landing gear on it?

[Spidious]

Am I seeing that correct, that the carbon fiber has the slot in it for the Mechanical swash set up ? If so. I think I might get it and the other aluminum stuff ! What type of carbon fiber sides are those ?

[Greybird]

Crap. Now you make me want those parts. It looks very nice! I still like my Eco because it gets long flights on cheap batteries.

[Gadget01]

Spidi- these CF frame sides by Ikarus are cut almost identically as the oem plastic ones. I cut on the front part to allow for a high-nose battery mount.

I'm almost done making the left-right angled servo mounts, but they are a real chore to get dialed in just the way I want. I'm trying as best I can to avoid drilling extra holes in the frame.

[Gadget01]

Do you plan on putting cf or aluminum landing gear on it?

I'm considering it. I will most likely use some CF struts made for plankers- I've seen some cool stuff at my LHS that might work really well, and then clamp some alum skids to the ends.

[Greybird]

Gadget. It would suck to see that heli all together without that shiney, red rotor head.... :D :D :D

[Gadget01]

Gadget. It would suck to see that heli all together without that shiney, red rotor head.... :D :D :D

Yeah, I finally got tired of my LHS saying the head was backordered from whatever their source is. FXAero has the the alum head in stock and for a good price, so I placed the order today. I find it odd that I can get these parts cheaper from the US than from Germany-for a German-brand heli.

I am unimpressed with the tailcase upgrade offerings I've seen so far. Nothing wrong with the plastic one I suppose. I wonder if I could convince Matt to upscale the billet tailcase he makes for the Corona....

[Greybird]

Have you seen this one?

[ftcs]

Where did you get the alum tail pulley tower from?

[Greybird]

I think he is headed for the most blinged Eco ever..

[Gadget01]

Jim, I just saw that one today.. it's something like 98 euros.... ouch. Maybe later.

The alum tail pulley tower is from here: http://www.woelk-modellbau.homepage.t-online.de/Online-Shop/index.htm


After slaving in the Gadget Laboratory all afternoon, the front servo mounts are complete. I think they came out pretty nice. I might lighten them up later on.

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04169a.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04161a.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04166a.jpg

For all but one set of the holes I ended up drilling into the frame, I used as a stiffening opportunity and sandwiched a CF tube inbetween.

[Gadget01]

Mostly finished and ready for a flight test--

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04179a.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04180a.jpg

[CRAZYKEV]

Sweet battery tray! Inventive :D

[Artemetra]

That's just a really sweet Eco, Gadget. Tightest servo setup I've ever seen.

I would suggest you look at the T-Rex 600 gear for it, the Ikarus ones aren't too great...

What battery is that? Might be short on flight times, but should fly great.

[Gadget01]

The pack is a FP evo20 4S 3700mah. Before I switched motors, I was running an Orbit 15-18 and getting 20 minute flights mostly because of very low headspeed. I never did actually tach it. The stock tail gear worked fine, but the 45t gear made the tail spin so slow that I had to unload the main rotors a bit to get it to swing around- that was kinda scary.

The 15-18 goes back on the Corona now and the Eco is now spun by a shiny new 20-12. Low headspeed and bogging should be long gone. Most certainly my long duration will be traded for a bit more exciting performance.

That 'Rex 600 gear does look good. I'd like to see a closeup on how you adapted it to the Eco frame.

thanks the compliments-

[Greybird]

What is the 600 gear tooth count? Does it match the Eco pinion? Will the Eco one way fit?

[Gadget01]

Jim, the "gear" I was talking about is the landing gear, not the spur gear.... or am I misinterpreting something ?

[Greybird]

Oop's! I was getting excited for no reason.. I read another thread before this one. Spidious mentioned main gear getting stripped, you mentioned Trex 600 gear, and before coffee, things get blurred.

[Gadget01]

Done for now, until the FXaero shows up with the new head and blades. I suppose a video is due out soon...

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04192a.jpg
http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04193a.jpg

[Greybird]

Nice!!

[HAL1]

Nice bird. Gadget01, where did you get your bell paddles ?

[Gadget01]

They are V-paddles from FXaero. I ordered a threaded flybar with them, but it turns out I didn't need it. These paddles have setscrews on the top and bottom. I'm using the Ikarus cf flybar, which I really dig- metal ones will bend and stay bent as did my original flybar, where as cf will spring back. The response is from these paddles is very good.

My duration dropped to 15 minutes with the same 3700 4S FP pack. I swapped the 19t for a 20t pinion and it was like giving it a shot of nitrous. Performance went from mild to WOW. The motor can was only slightly warm. Now that I have my eagletree set to log rpms, I can get some HS data from it on the next flight.

[Chachin]

That bird sure looks HOT Gadget. I love the battery mount :D.

Chachin..

[Gadget01]

Thanks! I almost miss the slow mellow floater it used to be. Oh, and that battery mount panel is a section of soft plastic cut from a 2001 Corvette's air filter shroud. I actively recycle! Now that I know the design works with the canopy, I may cut a new one from CF or make a CF cage like Matt does for the Freestyle.

[Philscbx]

Wow, that is one high-end Artwork.
I almost want to make a CF rear servo cowl, with air scoop.

That patio sure looks familiar... :)

[Kosmic]

Thanks! I almost miss the slow mellow floater it used to be. Oh, and that battery mount panel is a section of soft plastic cut from a 2001 Corvette's air filter shroud. I actively recycle! Now that I know the design works with the canopy, I may cut a new one from CF or make a CF cage like Matt does for the Freestyle.

Tried the same concept of battery mount last week end on my eco, and my motor (Hacker B50-18S) or my battery pack (4S 4000Mah) are definitely too heavy for that ... impossible to balance.

Nevertheless, your battery mount look great :D

[CRAZYKEV]

By far the best looking ECO8 I have seen! :cool: Nice job and like the CF servo cowl idea :p Super fly pimp!

One thing about the CF flybar. Be carefull because CF rod crushes very easily!

[Gary Morris]

I have to agree, that's the very nicest cleanest Eco 8 I've every seen, bar none! Had Ikarus used your design they would be selling them like hotcakes! Let us know how she flies and be sure to get some video as well.

Gary Morris

[whobedex33]

wow that is that is a one of the nicest heli's i've ever seen.good job

[Artemetra]

I have to agree, that's the very nicest cleanest Eco 8 I've every seen, bar none! Had Ikarus used your design they would be selling them like hotcakes! Let us know how she flies and be sure to get some video as well.

Gary Morris

Welllllll, it does look great.

Must mention a few things, though - could use the all-aluminum head, this is needed along with the thrust bearings for high headspeed. I love the Ikarus wood blades, but you'll probably want CF blades for more inverted performance. And of course the landing gear I mentioned before. These aren't just so-called "bling" tune-ups, they are pretty necessary imo.

Some of your other bling bits are just plain slick, not to mention the craftmanship. The CF bits at the back (like the boom) is very cool, along with the frames. And really nice photography, btw. :cool:

[Gadget01]

Art- thanks, and I agree. There are thrust bearings everywhere on this bird.. in the tail grips, main grips, and between the spur gear and the lower bearing on the main shaft. Also the alum head and some FG blades are on the way. I expect delivery from FXaero sometime next week. I am toying with changing out the landing gear as well... just considering options at this point. Hopefully I'll have enough sunlight for my eagletree rpm sensor to log some data on headspeed tach. The last 2 tries didn't work. Failing that, I'll bust out the old globee tach I use for my plankers.

The gear on this bird:

power: 4S FP 3700mah
Motor: Orbit 20-12, 20t pinion
esc: Jazz 55-6-18
swash servos: HS81mg- s3150 or 9650 later on
tail control: gy401, s9254
rx: Graupner 35mhz ppm

[Brutikus]

Hey guys.
im a noob.
earlier this month, just got off a DRAGONFLY FIXED PITCH heli and am now using a friend's E-SKY BELT CP.

i'm set on getting my own CP heli this weekend.
and it was between the TREX 450 and the ECO 16.

after seeing this article and several other ECO 8 articles, im pretty much sold on the ECO 8/16.
mostly because i just dont want to end up on the same TREX bandwagon as all the other guys that spend over 1500 bucks in bling parts on their first heli setup.
and since i want to focus more on control and hover, id like something that is more tuned to just that.... for now.

from what ive gathered, most people say that the ECO 8/16 is easier to fly, and more stable because of the size.
and since i've been using the BELT CP, the TREX 450 is just too small for what i've gotten used to.

my question is whether to go for the ECO 8 or the ECO 16.
i know that the only difference is the BLADE size.
the ECO 16 blades being longer.

what i would like to know is for a beginner, which would be better to train on?
if someone can put together a setup that would work best i'd really appreciate it!
im basically looking for a setup that is optimized for LONGER FLIGHT TIMES so that i can practice hovering and other basic low flying maneuvers.

ECO 8 vs ECO 16?
MOTOR (speed and output)
PINION GEAR
MAIN GEAR
ESC/BEC
LIPO BATTERY

do i need to upgrade to any metal parts?
the SIDE FRAMES seem to be a given from what others have said.

i already own a JR X2720 7-channel Tx.

any help would be awesome.

[Gadget01]

Brut- The Eco 8 is a good heli provided you don't crash often as it's not known to be very forgiving in that end. You'll find it's a far better trainer than any of the micro birds and definitely anything fixed pitch- stay away. With my older low HS setup of this heli, she would float around for over 20 minutes continuously before having to change the pack. This is awesome for training, because a lot of times the first 5 minutes or so can be nerve wracking and you don't get much accomplished. As your nerves settle, you can start focusing on real training value-oriented flying.

The ONLY upgrades that are a must IMO is the autorotation hub and alum frame plate/motor mount. I personally can't stand working with flat-blade screws on much of anything, so I use almost all socket-head hex screws that don't bend nearly as easy.

[Brutikus]

Thanks!

Btw, that CF canopy you have installed on your ECO.
is that custom made?

[Kosmic]

Eh if you’re looking for Eco 8 tuning parts go to this web site (in German thought):

http://www.eco-pit.de/
On the left menu, select "ECO/Tuning" and hit "Artikel anzeigen". I don't known if they ship to North America but for sure their upgrades look great!

I'm really tempted by the Tree Dee look alike canopy.

P.S: I'm not affiliate in any way with this web site.

Kos

[Gadget01]

That canopy is from here: http://www.carboncopyuk.com/acatalog/Helicopter_Bodies.html

[RC4ZEKE]

Hi Brutikus,

Here's the setup on my 20 minute flight Eco 16:

Hyperion Z3019-10 w/15T Pinion gear
Hyperion 50A COOL BEC 4A esc
Hyperion 4S2P 4200mAh

I have the HS really low as I don't fly 3D and love the Thump-Thump sound these huge blades make. :D

You will need: Auto-rotation hub, aluminum tail pitch slider, aluminum frame brace, and hardened main and feathering shafts.

[Gadget01]

their upgrades look great!

Looky what I found... it's ONLY 204 euros / $273!

Nice, but I think I'll leave that one alone. I already ordered the other head.

What I did in fact find here for the first time, are alum tailblade grips. I'll be ordering a pair of those...

[Kosmic]

you must "really" love your Eco to buy that kind of upgrade :)

Looky what I found... it's ONLY 204 euros / $273!

[Spidious]

Where from ?

Too bad it isn't red !

[Kosmic]

Where from ?

Too bad it isn't red !

Spidious, Look up, post #37 :)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7186231&postcount=37

[Artemetra]

ECO 8 vs ECO 16?
MOTOR (speed and output)
PINION GEAR
MAIN GEAR
ESC/BEC
LIPO BATTERY

do i need to upgrade to any metal parts?
the SIDE FRAMES seem to be a given from what others have said.

i already own a JR X2720 7-channel Tx.

any help would be awesome.

After your experience an Eco 8 will seem docile. A brushless on 3S lipos (3700-5000 mAh) is a good idea. There are lots of motor options, check the threads and the EHBG. ESC - I suggest a Castle Pheonix 45, and add a UBEC.

Side frames aren't that crucial if you want to hover around, and you can always upgrade later. But the aluminum main web plate is a better upgrade like rc4zeke said - you are screwing a motor to it, plastic is yecch. Hardened shafts are almost required, the regular ones bend way too easily - although a fair crash will bend the hardened ones too.

You didn't ask but of course a GY401 is great stuff especially with a tailboom mounted digital servo.

[Greybird]

Gadget, I will buy your red aluminum head, if you get that one pictured above.

[Gadget01]

Jim, you would tempt me with such an offer.... and I appreciate it. That head above is a considerable chunk more expensive- almost twice as much. As cool as it would be, I'm going to have to let it go. Besides.... it's not RED!

[Spidious]

Actually I did. But all I got was a bunch of text, no pictures or anything ?

I just tried it this morning and it works

Spidious, Look up, post #37 :)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7186231&postcount=37

[Philscbx]

Eh if you’re looking for Eco 8 tuning parts go to this web site (in German thought):

http://www.eco-pit.de/
On the left menu, select "ECO/Tuning" and hit "Artikel anzeigen".
Kos

Try the site converted to English:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/babelfish/tr

When the babelfish page loads, insert http://www.eco-pit.de/
into the translate web page space.

Select from drop down menu: German to English

Hit Translate, and Wa-la

[Brutikus]

the aluminum reinforcement parts...
are they available in SILVER or BLUE?
i've only been able to find the red stuff.
i've seen a pic of BLUE anodized parts, but no links to purchase them.

http://www.fxaeromodels.com/popup_image.php?pID=1665

[Gadget01]

Brut

The boom clamps are from CME Hobbies:

http://www.cmehobbies.com/product_p/eco8sbsc.htm

[Gadget01]

I love it when parts show up like this:

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04203.JPG

[Greybird]

Drooling!

[Spidious]

Hey

They delivered it to the wrong address !

[Artemetra]

I love it when parts show up like this:

You will probably want to swap out the arm brackets - those flat metal parts. They bend too easily, and you are always adjusting tracking. Check:

http://www.fxaeromodels.com/product_info.php?cPath=49_50_53&products_id=705

[Lynxman]

I agree with Artemetra. The machined alu arms are much better than the stock arms which cause inconsistencies.

[Gadget01]

Art, I was way ahead of you- I had those parts waiting here when the head arrived, having the advantage of reading through your Super Eco 8 thread :http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=457606

Just some linkage tweaking to be done yet, as the swash servos arms sit a little too high in a hover. Cyclic response is instantaneous with this head. I'm really impressed with the quality of the hardware and the performance.

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04232a.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04213a.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04219a.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04224a.jpg

[Impact]

Looking really nice Gadget01,I look forward to some flight reports maybe even some video........Impact

[Chachin]

Nice, Alu head added!! Now we're talking :cool: :D

Chachin..

[Gadget01]

She spools up pretty smoothly and flies super sweet with FG blades. I flipped the mixing arms so the response is a lot snappier. I had to flatten out the pitch curve quite a bit to calm it down. The only problem I have noticed is that my paddles are not tracking quite right. The carbon flybar makes dialing it in a little tricky since it bends a little too easily. Even so, there is no shaking or vibration that I can see. I got a couple glitches today when it was out a ways- maybe 75 feet or so. I'll get some video posted soon- just need to get a volunteer to run the camera.

[Gadget01]

Flew 2x today- one with a 20t pinion and two with a 19t pinion. By the time I switched to the 19t, I found my tach- all this time it was sitting right there on my workbench.

1480rpm with 19t. I think it bogs more with the lower headspeed and this motor, so I'm going back to the 20 and I'll tach that tomorrow.

I installed the alum frame brace from FX. It bolts in 2 places to the frame sides and in 2 places on the bottom to the motor plate. This should really help make it solid.

I took out the Ikarus carbon flybar and put a 3 x 400mm Logo 10 flybar in its place. The threaded ends make it much easier to get the V-paddles adjusted and tracked. They are wider than the oem paddles- 80mm vs 68mm. I set it up so the tip-to tip measurement is the same as with the oems for now. The handling is great- responsive yet still very smooth. There is probably 15mm or so of excess flybar length at each end for adjustment.

The carbon flybar flexes and twists too easily so I don't recommend it. The Logo 10 flybar is much better and allows whatever 3mm paddle you want to use.

[Gadget01]

Bums me out man- crashed! Everything was singing a nice song and I decided to try and do a roll. No big deal- something I do in the sim with no issues. I made sure to have plenty of negative pitch available but I failed to grind a flat spot on the motor shaft. The moment I flipped it over, the pinion slipped and I lost power instantaneously.

Busted the landing gear struts, the alum canopy stay/anti-rotation bracket, and bent that shiny new flybar and the 2mm head linkages. I was over a grassy field, and it wasn't up very high. Blades survived along with most of the other spendy bits- I hope.

SOOOOO frustrating!

[geneween]

bummer, that's sucks, I've had a pinion slip more than once and it tottally sucks when the power goes south.

GW

[Impact]

That's to bad, surprise auto's are allways the hardest........impact

[Artemetra]

ARghh! Well, get it going again, that's such a sweet Eco. :rolleyes:

[Chachin]

Gadget, good call on the Logo10 flybar. I am using a Logo20 (Pre-2003) 3mm flybar in my Eco-16 which is a bit longer.

Sorry to hear about the crash though :(. It doesn't sound too bad. At least the blades weren't at full rpms. One of the things that minimizes crash damage the most is shutting down the motor before impact. It's the second best thing to autoing down. Hope you get her back up flying again soon. Did the frames survive?

Chachin..

[Gadget01]

Yeah, luckily the frames held up- it was the most odd thing really. I flew 15 minutes on one pack doing mostly nose-in hover practice and big figure 8's- even did a stall turn with a couple piro's at the top. I just don't understand why the pinion would wait until I tried to do a roll to let go while inverted.

The moment I saw trouble I hit the throttle-hold, which is set at 0%. I suppose another lucky deal is the parts that ate it are cheap and easily replaced. I am considering Eco 16 or T-Rex 600 landing gear. I don't suppose the bent flybar can be straightened with much success- it's not really bad, maybe bent about 30 degrees on one end. At $4... it's just the pain of waiting a week and a half for the FX order to arrive. I'm totally sold on using the Logo10 flybar- it's definitely the ticket.

[muskis2]

Gadget,
Bummer, I just winsed when I read your post but was wondering how the upgraded head was after the crash. (Just trying to justify the $$$ for it.) I wasn't sure but were you using the Futaba S9650 servo for your tail rotor? If so how did you mount it? The usual cf rear servo mount won't fit. (Not trying to hijack the thread just curious what you used.)

Bill - once I can figure out the tail rotor mount its gooo time!!!

[w4r_T4ct1c]

I just saw the pictures and that is an amazing looking helicopter.. Get it flying again and get some videos..Hope 1 day I can have something nice like that

[Gadget01]

The alum head is unscathed. I'm going to disassemble the head and make sure the main shaft and blade grip shaft aren't bent as well.

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04245a.jpg

[Gadget01]

Gadget,
Bummer, I just winsed when I read your post but was wondering how the upgraded head was after the crash. (Just trying to justify the $$$ for it.) I wasn't sure but were you using the Futaba S9650 servo for your tail rotor? If so how did you mount it? The usual cf rear servo mount won't fit. (Not trying to hijack the thread just curious what you used.)

Bill - once I can figure out the tail rotor mount its gooo time!!!

I used 2 alum tailboom brackets bolted to a CF plate that I shaped to locate the servo. The CF plate is originally half of that thickness... I just cut 2 squarish sections of the sheet, epoxied them together, and cut the servo opening with a dremel.

I didn't like what I saw availble to order. They all used only one boom bracket and maybe that's ok, but I insisted on dual brackets for a solid setup. The alum bracket weighs nothing anyways. I could cut some more of the plate to lighten it up some, but I think I like it the way it is.

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04252a.jpg

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04249a.jpg

[muskis2]

Thanks,
I've kinda raided the local hardware store and found something that might work.

I'll post some picts latter.

Bill

[Gadget01]

If you want to use a full-size servo like the 9254, I still have the alum servo plate I made... it's shaped exactly like this CF plate. I'll send it your way for a modest fee.

[muskis2]

Humm modest fee eh??? With or without Vat ;-)
For me its not the plate its the attachment idea to the tail boom. I think my idea will work but I plan on the very hard tug test before trying to spool it up. I just can't justify $30 just to have something hold my 9650 futaba on the tailboom.

Bill

[Gadget01]

You could put some foam rubber tape on the servo and zip tie it to the boom and it would work fine if you wanted to be frugal about it.

I made some rudimentary mounts with alum U tubing and ground some curves in them to match (roughly) the curvature of the tailboom. The servo was bolted to these and the alum U tubage was zip tied to the boom and it worked just fine. I would send them to you just for the cost of shipping.

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC03808a.jpg

[muskis2]

gadget,
I'd pay for the shipping of your custom bracket for the tail servo, but I'd like you to sign it, for that extra custom look. Plus I know it would wow the fellas at the field to show them I've got a custom "gadget" 9650 futaba tail rotor plate. How much to littleton, co 80128?

It would be the only real bling on my bird.
Bill - even closer to the maiden

[Gadget01]

Well... I suppose I'll accept that as a compliment, thanks!

The only problem is, nothing I have pictured or mentioned here will fit the 9650, as it is smaller and would not work with what I have in the parts bin.

I can make you a new mounting plate to fit the 9650 specifically, carbon or aluminum, priced accordingly. I need to make one for my Corona for the same servo and the overall shape will be almost identical.

One tailboom bracket is probably just fine for a servo this size, but if you want dually brackets, I'll cut it accordingly. I'll tap 2mm threads for the servo mounting tabs.

What do you think a fair asking price is? Make me a reasonable offer and we'll have a deal.


No repair progress on the Eco yet- working too many hours lately.

[muskis2]

gadget,
Nope no offense intended, since I did think it would be cool. As for price I'm not sure and I don't want to lowbal you. (I did something similar and the guy was offended, so I'll be overly cautious this time;)

Bill

[Gadget01]

Finally... FXAero order arrived with some goodies... new shafts, 'Rex 600 landing gear, new anti-rotation/canopy bracket, flybars (3 of them), MAH blades, etc.

So I start taking things apart for inspection and discovered that I did indeed fracture one of the frame sides, just forward of the landing gear screw hole. It's a clean break, so rather than order new frame sides, I'm going to cut some cf stock to splint over the break and epoxy it all together.

I'm trying to figure out how to bolt the 'Rex 600 gear struts to the frame with some kind of break-away part to keep from damaging the frame anymore when the inevitable happens again.

I made another discovery... the lower main shaft radial bearing was rusty. Hmmm....

[Artemetra]

I think the simplest way to mount those gear is to make plastic blocks to go between the frames, and screw the LG to the blocks. You could easily make these to the strength you wanted, roughly speaking. Just make them like the mainshaft bearing blocks, with lightening webs. Anyway, that's what I tried, and they seem about right. :)

[Gadget01]

I have square alum tubing that would work perfectly. I can drill and tap holes for the frame sides on each end and then do the same for the bottom for the gear struts.

Thanks for the tip.

[Chachin]

Good to hear that Gadget, looking forward to reading your opinion on the MAH's :)

Chachin..

[Gadget01]

All back together again, after grinding out some square aluminum tubing to attach the 'Rex 600 landing gear, which make the oem gear look small.

I also lifted the front of the battery tray, which aligns it better with the canopy and allowed me to place the Rx battery pack up higher to further tighten up the CG.

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04299a.jpg http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04307a.jpg


http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04320a.jpg

[Gadget01]

Here's a closeup of the landing gear mounts:

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04290a.jpg

I'm using a single 3mm nylon screw to attach each of the gear struts. Strong enough to do the job but they should easily break away when things go wrong and hopefully spare the frame.

[Kosmic]

Fit nicely, great work.

Should be stable and strong enough now :)

Kos

[Greybird]

I don't know Gadget. I think that landing gear ruined the look of the heli. It is way too big. Like a puppy waiting to grow into his feet. JMHO

[Kosmic]

I don't know Gadget. I think that landing gear ruined the look of the heli. It is way too big. Like a puppy waiting to grow into his feet. JMHO

I think the picture does not help ... the landing gear is in foreground.

Kos

[Greybird]

Gadget, As good as you are at making stuff, look at this picture. Those curved struts are available in airplane land I think. I wish i would have saved the site I got this from.

[Artemetra]

The landing gear only look big at first, imo. After a while they look perfectly normal.

I just got a new tailboom (regular one from Ikarus) from FXAeromodels, and it's anodized black! Cool. :cool:

[Impact]

It looks very nice Gadget, you sure do a nice job at making everything perfect. Thanks for posting the picture of the main shaft thrust bearing I'm going to do that to my eco, every little bit helps. I've been running raptor gear since I broke the first set of stock gear, that was 4 years ago. They look a little big at first but that goes away quickly and they just look normal. Have you said to yourself yet "they should just come with this gear" Those words were uttered so many times by myself and a couple flying buddys I can't even count.....Impact

[Gadget01]

I posted this in Kosmicś rebuild thread, but it certainly has relevance here....

Here are the thrust bearing details for the main shaft:


http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04284a.jpg http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04260a.jpg

The shim is important, as it allows the inner race of the radial bearing to spin freely. If this is not installed, the thrust bearing washer contacts both the inner and outer races- which is somewhere less than good.




http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04268a.jpg http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04276a.jpg

Here is what the autorotation hub looks like after grinding the ridge flat:

http://gadgetspeed.com/images/RC/Eco8/DSC04278a.jpg

If this is not ground flat, it sits too low on the shaft and does not align with the tailgear. As is, I had to shim the lower tailgear with a couple of washers.


Another detail that helps with the spacing--- The radial bearing can sit a little bit higher in the frame plate by placing a washer underneath the bearing retention plate on either end. I had to grind flats in them for the bearing to clear.

[Gadget01]

I don't know Gadget. I think that landing gear ruined the look of the heli. It is way too big. Like a puppy waiting to grow into his feet. JMHO

Yes, that was basically my impression when I took the gear out of the plastic bag and held it up to an oem gear-strut.

What I might do is trim the skids down to a more ¨scale¨ length. They are nearly big enough to qualify as training gear. It does make it considerably more stable though. I could probably just throw this heli in the bed of my truck without too much care and it would just sit there for the entire 20 minute ride to the airfield.

I like the look of those carbon struts and no doubt they would weigh a good deal less. I have been eyeballing a pair similar to those at my LHS. Itś 90% a planker store and I doubt they will have the skid clamps to bolt onto the struts. I suppose I could sweat them out of my workshop after some trial and error though.

[Greybird]

Gadget. I saw a set made with CF bows and these clamps on the skids. Looked nice too. The electrical area at Home depot has many sizes.

[Gadget01]

Of course... I thought they looked familiar. I'll give the hardware store a try- thanks!

[Greybird]

I am sure the Gadget workshop will come up with something more appropriate for that heli.

[Gadget01]

I just flew a few hours ago- first time since the pinion gear slip- crash. She flies buttery smooth and very responsive. The slightest right stick movement instantly commands the swash and goes precisely where I want. Too bad my inverted luck has been so bad lately. Rest assured, I ground a flat on the motor shaft for the pinion grub screw. I also got tired of the long 2mm head linkages bending if you glance at them the wrong way, so I made some from 3mm. Tracking is dead on and unlikely to change.

I'm going to try and get some video shot today if the better half will play along. She's not terribly happy with how much laboratory time I took yesterday, but it was my first day off in weeks where I could just sit down and get'r done.

[Greybird]

Gadget,Here is a picture of Willy's heli. His landing gear is homemade. I saved this picture because it was the best looking Eco ever. Yours may surpass it.

[Gadget01]

A contender for the best looking Eco? Well... thank you. It wasn´t my goal really... I just wanted my Eco to fly well. It started out innocently enough, but I can´t seem to leave it alone. I invest a good bit of time in the small details like wiring neatness and parts/build quality, good mechanical setup, etc. I suppose the heli speaks enough for itself.

I just wish I could fly it half as well as some other people here. I was doing some aggressive figure 8´s yesterday afternoon and some nose-in hovers, piros, etc. but nothing inverted or otherwise very entertaining for a spectator. I suppose I just need to keep practicing. I finally have a 2nd battery pack so I can get 2x the practice at a time now- that should help.

The low-rider CF struts are indeed cool and the CF goes together with the CF canopy and other bits much better than plastic. I gotta hit the LHS today and see what they have. Since I have finalized my battery tray, I´m going to cut a CF plate to replace the plastic panel I roughed out.

My canopy definitely needs some flair on it- at least to help with visibility/orientation. I saw an Eco once that had the old warbird teeth decal in front on the bottom- that looked super cool.

[Gadget01]

I got some help from one of the German guys at work today, so the cnc tailblade grips are on their way from eco-pit.de.

[geneween]

if your looking for a deal on a blinged ECO8 that needs new frames.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7388976#post7388976

Sorry for the spam, but not everyone checks out the F/S section.

Geneween


Another thread....maybe I should keep this Heli...

[Gadget01]

Gene, I wish I had seen that 6 months ago... could have saved me a bucket of cash.