Cellpro with OLED display retrofit

[Probedude]

I just retrofitted by brother's Cellpro charger with a 16x2 line OLED display. The pictures are arranged in the order that I performed the retrofit.

- the OLED 16x2 line display is dimensionally a drop in replacement
- the OLED 16x2 line display is NOT electrically a drop in replacement. Pin 3 on a normal LCD is the contrast pin - the closer to ground the more contrast. This OLED display is opposite. The closer to +5V for pin 3, the brighter the display.
Pin 3 must be cut or removed from the Cellpro header strip and then a resistor is tacked onto the OLED pads themselves between pins 2 and 3.

The datasheet says pin 3 is nominally 2.5V which I found to be a bit on the dim side. I used a 4.7K resistor from pin 3 to pin 2 which gave me 3.5V on pin 3 and very nice brightness.

- the datasheet says this display consumes nominally 15mA of current. I confirmed that using my clamp on DC ammeter. I measured the temp of the 5V regulator on the Cellpro with my finger and notice no detectable rise in temperature so it isn't being taxed.

I took pictures of the OLED with and without flash. I did this to show that even under bright lights you can still read the display.

It's quite gorgeous of a display. My brother's cellpro didn't suffer from a poor LCD to begin with unlike mine, but now it looks better!

Thanks to the 'TheDude0901' for pointing out the availability of OLED displays in standard LCD character display packages when he retrofitted his Triton display first.

I bought my display here (as he did too)
http://microcontrollershop.com/product_info.php?products_id=1468

Update:
If anyone wants, I'll send you 3 each of the 4.7K resistor and 0.1uf caps.
All you have to do is PM me for my address and then send me a self addressed stamped envelope in the snail mail (fill out an envelope to yourself, put a stamp on it, fold it up and put it in another envelope addressed to me, put a stamp on that and send it to me).

They're cheap enough I can give them away for a bit. 3 qty of each so you can give them to your friends or if you lose one.

Dave

[coro]

This kind of display is beutifull on any charger. Clearly readable on the sun as well as in the dark... They don't consume too much power, so they are really direct replacements of non-backlit ones.
I am not sure what high temperature on direct sun could hurt this display? We'll see.

Lifetime of PLED / OLED displays is quite short, they will fade away like EL backligh foil,
but then it can be simply exchanged for new one. I expect 5 years of intensive use, but I may be wrong. It should depend on brightness.

Dave, I have no courage for purchase of 128x64 graphic OLED/PLED module, as there could be different controllers... however... ICE needs better display. I see it on Your last picture in the background.. mine has EL backlit allready, but OLED are much better.
In case You'll find which kind of controller is compatible with ICE, please let us know.

[ggcrandall1]

Dave,

Super tutorial. Super pictures. I wish all contributors would be as meticulous as you.

I don't have a desoldering iron. Radio Shack has an inexpensive one (about $11.00) that uses a rubber bulb to supply the suction. Any opinion about it?

1. Would solder sucker (desoldering braid) work as well?

2. What is the source for the capacitor and resistor you used? (Radio Shack?)

3. What wattage iron do you use for circuit board work?

Glen

[ukpaul]

Great info & pics Dave, many thanks for taking the time to post this :)

This is what the displays should look like from the factory. It's a shame that what is otherwise a great charger, is let down by the poor displays. Mine is one of the more recent A123 versions. I was hoping the screen would have improved a bit over the earlier non A123 models, but sadly mine is also hard to see clearly.

Well it is at the moment, it won't be soon...

[rcjetpilot]

Dave,

Thanks for a great how-to...

The picture sequence is perfect!

Bob

[Probedude]

Lifetime of PLED / OLED displays is quite short, they will fade away like EL backligh foil, but then it can be simply exchanged for new one. I expect 5 years of intensive use, but I may be wrong. It should depend on brightness.

Yeah, I thought about that aspect when I commented on TheDude's retrofit of his Triton but then realized my usage of the Cellpro is pretty intermittent. I only power it up when charging my batteries maybe 10 hours a week? At 10 hours a week and 5000 hours half life for brightness (this is an assumption) I'd have 500 weeks of lifetime before it dims to half brightness - almost 10 years of service. By then I'll have the next latest greatest charger/technology out there (Mr. Fusion?)

I didn't see a lifetime value in the datasheet. The 5000 number above is what I remember EL backlighting to be when it was new technology (I think it's around 10K hours these days).

Coro,
I'm too afraid to try and peel off that reflective backing on my ICE to try and backlight it. I really don't want to break that display.
Dave

[Probedude]

I don't have a desoldering iron. Radio Shack has an inexpensive one (about $11.00) that uses a rubber bulb to supply the suction. Any opinion about it?

I think I still have one of these from many many years ago. It works fine but the tips wear out and the unit is prone to clogging. If you have one brand new I'm sure it would work fine for this application. I'd tap it on the edge of a plastic trash can to knock the solder to the tip and then press the bulb to expell the solder. Still you'll need to occasionally push a steel wire in there to hog out an opening in the solder when it clogs.


1. Would solder sucker (desoldering braid) work as well?

I haven't had much luck with desoldering braid on double sided PC boards. You can try.


2. What is the source for the capacitor and resistor you used? (Radio Shack?)

I use them in my other products so I have reels of it. Bought the latest reels off Ebay, but other than that you'll need to go to a mail order place - Radio Shack doesn't have SMT parts anymore.
That said, you don't need to use SMT parts. Get a 1/4 watt or 1/8 watt resistor and a leaded cap and solder it on the LCD pads and carefully locate the cap and resistor so it doesn't short anything when the cover is on.


3. What wattage iron do you use for circuit board work?


You can get away with a 15W iron - like Radio Shack carries (dont' know if they still do). It's a grounded tip iron. I've got a Metcal MX500, it's only $600 new (!!) but you don't need that. Any low wattage iron will work. If you're doing the solder wick/braid, a 15W iron will likely NOT work since the wicking also wicks the heat away from your tip.

Dave

[birdofplay]

Wow great display prices.

I did a stepper control box 5-6 yrs ago with early atmel 8515 and used a 4x20
that cost me nearly $50.

Been waiting for years to see OLEDs in the TVs and Display markets
Where are they ? ? ?
Being suppressed IMHO

sigh .....

[Probedude]

Been waiting for years to see OLEDs in the TVs and Display marketsWhere are they ? ? ?
Being suppressed IMHO
sigh .....

I actually work next door to an OLED company/R&D facility. Even have friends that work there. The problem has been lifetime issues, mostly due to packaging difficulties (sealing out the environment).

They've been talking about a 'rollup' big screen display that you can pull down from your ceiling for years. Someday I hope.

Dave

[noobee]

nice mod!

how does it look in daylight and in sunlight?

[birdofplay]

I had such High Hopes fpr OLEDS too.

I even bought a cheaper CRT instead of a Flatscreen monitor
becasue I'll be danged if I'd pay yadydayda ...
when OLEDS were promised to be so cheap and BIG !

Sigh ... still waiting !

At least the CRT helps keep me warm :-)))

[steve1814]

Well, Got my OLED Cellpro 4s up and running. The display is simply awesome :D

Thanks again DAVE! :o

[Probedude]

Well, Got my OLED Cellpro 4s up and running. The display is simply awesome :D

Thanks again Dave! :o

Very nice Steve! It's trippy to me that the OLED display is SOOO nice that it almost looks fake in the pictures!!

Dave

[noobee]

how does it look in broad daylight? will it be too dim?

[EddieNewYork]

That's so awsome. Wish I can do it, but I can't find the 0.1uF cap or the 4.7K 0805 sized resistor anywhere.

[BARNESJONR]

I just ordered my replacement display and already recvd an email saying it would be on the way Priority tomorrow! Nice!

As far as finding the cap and resistor, I am thinking he said up above as a caption to the picture of them that you don't have to use surface mount components? In which case wouldn't Radio Shack have standard 0.01 uf caps and a 4.7K 5% 1/4 resistor? Or Jameco.com?

[Probedude]

If anyone wants, I'll send you 3 each of the 4.7K resistor and 0.1uf caps.
All you have to do is PM me for my address and then send me a self addressed stamped envelope in the snail mail (fill out an envelope to yourself, put a stamp on it, fold it up and put it in another envelope addressed to me, put a stamp on that and send it to me).

They're cheap enough I can give them away for a bit. 3 qty of each so you can give them to your friends or if you lose one.

Dave

[Probedude]

I just ordered my replacement display and already recvd an email saying it would be on the way Priority tomorrow! Nice!

As far as finding the cap and resistor, I am thinking he said up above as a caption to the picture of them that you don't have to use surface mount components? In which case wouldn't Radio Shack have standard 0.01 uf caps and a 4.7K 5% 1/4 resistor? Or Jameco.com?

Yep, you can use leaded parts but you may have to be creative with were you tuck them so they clear the lid without shorting.
Dave

[flatfour]

Before I go thru the whole checkout process for the OLED, what do they ask for shipping charges??

Thanks

[BARNESJONR]

Dang, and I JUST received the Cellpro adaptor I ordered from you today! if only ..... :D

I'll be dropping a SASE in the mail tomorrow a.m. for some of the freebies. THANKS!!

[BARNESJONR]

Oh, shipping is 6.35 I believe? But that gets you USPS Priority, which for the size of this part should only be 4.05. Oh well.

[EddieNewYork]

If anyone wants, I'll send you 3 each of the 4.7K resistor and 0.1uf caps.
All you have to do is PM me for my address and then send me a self addressed stamped envelope in the snail mail (fill out an envelope to yourself, put a stamp on it, fold it up and put it in another envelope addressed to me, put a stamp on that and send it to me).

They're cheap enough I can give them away for a bit. 3 qty of each so you can give them to your friends or if you lose one.

Dave

You're the BEST Dave! Just got done ordering 2 PLEDs. :) Now I gotta order me a Hakko 808. :D

[Probedude]

You're the BEST Dave! Just got done ordering 2 PLEDs. :) Now I gotta order me a Hakko 808. :D

Just go visit Fry's! That's where I bought mine. It's about $165.

[EddieNewYork]

Just go visit Fry's! That's where I bought mine. It's about $165.

I will thanks. :)

[NewbieCrashPilot]

Oh, shipping is 6.35 I believe? But that gets you USPS Priority, which for the size of this part should only be 4.05. Oh well.

They charge $19.95. to ship to Canada, but I really do like and want the improved visibility over the stock display. :rolleyes:

[Probedude]

They charge $19.95. to ship to Canada, but I really do like and want the improved visibility over the stock display. :rolleyes:

Have any friends that also want to retrofit their display? Then you could split the shipping charges.

[NewbieCrashPilot]

so far I'm the only one in my group that has heli addiction. The rest have kids to worry about :D Without RCgroups I would have been in the dark on an already steep learning curve.

Depending on how quickly I want to do the upgrade, I could wait until someone goes south for vacation or business. Sometimes its just easier to pay and get it over with. :)

[BARNESJONR]

PM Sent to Newbie in re to saving a few bucks maybe?

[mike50]

I just completed upgrading two Cellpro's to the OLED displays. It was actually quite easy to do, with the desoldering of the old display the only tricky part. It was reasonably easy with a solder sucker. I doubt you could do it with desoldering braid.

An alternative would be to cut off the pins of the connector and then remove the pins one by one from the Cellpro board. Then you could just replace the connector.

I am really glad I did it. Both worked perfectly and the display is awesome. The low contrast display on the Cellpro was my only complaint about it, now it is perfect.

Mike

[Probedude]

I just completed upgrading two Cellpro's to the OLED displays.
Mike

Congrats and awesome!!

[BARNESJONR]

I dropped an envelope in the mail today, headed your way Dave. And my Cellpro is due to arrive Wednesday the 21st. And my OLED shipped yesterday Priority Mail, from San Jose, about an hour or so from me by car. Soooooo...hoping by the end of the week we are in business.

[NewbieCrashPilot]

PM Sent to Newbie in re to saving a few bucks maybe?

Hi Jon, PM sent. Need your email for paypal. Thanks for helping to save a few bucks...for more spare parts :D

Anthony

[TheSteve]

If anyone in Canada does decide to buy a bunch of these I'd be happy to buy two. I don't really wanna bite the bullet and pay 20 dollars for shipping.(and on top of that have no idea how much they might declare the package for) I'm Vancouver, BC. I'd also be happy to install them for people if needed.

[HoverFan]

This looks like a great mod for a fantastic little charger (thanks to probedude). :D Dave, are you still offering the resisters and caps as I cant seem to locate the SMT's. Also are you still recommending the envelope method or do you know a source for the shrink......

[Probedude]

This looks like a great mod for a fantastic little charger (thanks to probedude). :D Dave, are you still offering the resisters and caps as I cant seem to locate the SMT's. Also are you still recommending the envelope method or do you know a source for the shrink......
Yep, still offer the part - SASE has been working fine.
Envelope method for the existing heatshrink I recommend too - I haven't found a suitable replacement.

Dave

[BARNESJONR]

Got my envelope yesterday Dave! Tnx very, very much. I was impatient and went and did the mod on wednesday when my charger arrived, using standard size Shack-obtained parts. I'll go back and retrofit the surface mount ones in now. Tnx for all your efforts in making a great charger even better!!

[BARNESJONR]

I missed the part about your heatshrink but I just put mine back on and "seamed" it with a piece of tape and you really can't even tell anything, unless you look very, very close!

[Richard Ingram]

Probably should keep my keyboard shut, but I don't understand why all the fuss about smd cap and resistor. The capacitor is nice but not required. The resistor can be a 1/4 W one from radioshack ( if you live close to one). The leaded resistor is easier to install than a smd device. Just my experience doing the same conversion on the orbit microladerpro.

Let me add a note about the Orbit Microlader Pro. In mine the lcd display had a really screwy pin arrangement. It was something like :

16-15-1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14

I had to look close to figure it out. Beware if you try it on this charger since to mod requires that a flat cable be wired to the OLED.

[Probedude]

Probably should keep my keyboard shut, but I don't understand why all the fuss about smd cap and resistor. The capacitor is nice but not required. The resistor can be a 1/4 W one from radioshack ( if you live close to one). The leaded resistor is easier to install than a smd device. Just my experience doing the same conversion on the orbit microladerpro.

Yep, no need to use SMT parts as mentioned in the photo build. The cap I added because the OLED display itself has a DC-DC converter on the back and I figured some bypassing there wouldn't hurt. The Cellpro board layout doesn't provide any bypassing anywhere near the LCD hookup. (You can actually hear the DC-DC converter on the back of the unit though it is faint.)

[steve1814]

Dave,

Got the Charger back with the A123 option installed. They really liked the new OLED and said that they were going to change to a better screen in future releases. (didn't say which screen though) :rolleyes:

Check it out!...... Independently targeting particle beam phalanx. Whoa! Fry half a city with this puppy. We got tactical smart missiles, phase-plasma pulse rifles, RPGs, we got sonic electronic ball breakers! We got nukes, we got knives, sharp sticks... :eek: Oops! Wrong Forum :eek:

[EddieNewYork]

Dave,

Got the Charger back with the A123 option installed.

Cool, they serviced it even after you modded it?

[Probedude]

Dave,

Got the Charger back with the A123 option installed. They really liked the new OLED and said that they were going to change to a better screen in future releases. (didn't say which screen though) :rolleyes:



SWEET!! Nice job!

[BARNESJONR]

Cool, they serviced it even after you modded it?

Now thats impressive, on FMA's part. Usually, a mod like this gives them all the recourse they need to deny all service or repair. Great PR Fred!

[steve1814]

HA!

Don't be fooled by their hospitality....it COST me $12.00 to have it done!

They did shrink wrap it for me again though-that was nice ;)

Steve

[Probedude]

HA!

Don't be fooled by their hospitality....it COST me $12.00 to have it done!

They did shrink wrap it for me again though-that was nice ;)

Steve

That IS nice! I'm not sure you can buy any and have it delivered for that price. . .. .

[EddieNewYork]

I'm contemplating, after I do the mod, I won't replace the shrink wrap. I think it looks ugly. :D But instead protect the bottom from shorting with perhaps some kind of rubberized material. Like what Probedude did with his adapters. What do you guys think?

[norbique]

Are these OLED displays you used to upgrade the Cellpro compatible with the Triton?

[Probedude]

Are these OLED displays you used to upgrade the Cellpro compatible with the Triton?

That's where I got the idea from - TheDude retrofitted his Triton version 1 first.

Here's the link
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6927060#post6927060

[steve1814]

I'm contemplating, after I do the mod, I won't replace the shrink wrap. I think it looks ugly. But instead protect the bottom from shorting with perhaps some kind of rubberized material. Like what Probedude did with his adapters. What do you guys think?

@Eddie: You know what works good for that....The underside of a mouse pad! nice and thick and anti-slip :cool: cut to the size you want, spray some 3M super 77 on it let it dry for a couple of minutes then stick it on - presto! It comes off with electrical contact cleaner if you even need to replace/remove it.

[EddieNewYork]

@Eddie: You know what works good for that....The underside of a mouse pad! nice and thick and anti-slip :cool: cut to the size you want, spray some 3M super 77 on it let it dry for a couple of minutes then stick it on - presto! It comes off with electrical contact cleaner if you even need to replace/remove it.

Cool, thanks for the tip.

[coro]

@Eddie: You know what works good for that....The underside of a mouse pad! nice and thick and anti-slip :cool: cut to the size you want, spray some 3M super 77 on it let it dry for a couple of minutes then stick it on - presto! It comes off with electrical contact cleaner if you even need to replace/remove it.
Nice idea, I am using very similar foam purchased in office papers store. Ordinary, all of my electronics are treated by Plastic70 spray, it creates conform isolation and protective layer. Then, foam is sticked on bottom. I am using it regardless of usin shrink wrap or not.
3M 77 spray can be easily removed if You will apply heat on it. Not a high temperature, some direct sun or hot air/iron/hair dry fan, could be sufficient.

[NewbieCrashPilot]

Probedude,

I got it working! New display is bright and clear. :D Toughest part was getting the old LCD off with a cheapy solder sucker. :rolleyes: Now I know why you sent 3 resistors and 3 caps...tweezer slipped during the set up. Resistor went flying. :eek: Heard it drop on the floor, but how the hell would I find something that small?

Thanks again for the parts.

BarnesJonR,
thanks for helping out with the OLED order and shipping.

NCP - Anthony

[Probedude]

Now I know why you sent 3 resistors and 3 caps...tweezer slipped during the set up. Resistor went flying. :eek: Heard it drop on the floor, but how the hell would I find something that small?

Thanks again for the parts.

Been there, done that :)

Glad it all went okay.

Dave

[BARNESJONR]

Happy to help Anthony! I'm not sure why some places charge so much to get stuff to you guys up north? Probably a real, legal reason. The new display is awesome, isn't it? Now, should I do my Triton also?!

(tnx again Probedude!)

[Hellbore]

I also lost one of the tiny SMD resistors! It like somehow fell off before I soldered it...and man it was GONE! Hehe...

[NewbieCrashPilot]

Found the resistor!

BTW, is it normal for the charger to get warm on the back while charging a 4S (2100mAh) LiPo?

I'm Using an adapter to charge two 7.4V 2S 1060mAh packs simultaneously. I cannot recall if it always did this before the upgrade. No obvious short circuits or accidental solder bridges are visible.

Otherwise it appears to be charging normally.


I really should get a higher amp power supply (currently using 12v 2A wall plug). Get error code 4 if charging two packs simultaneously at 1.0C, but works at 1.0mAh. Must be pushing the wall plug over its capacity on the 1.0C setting. :eek:

[mike50]

Happy to help Anthony! I'm not sure why some places charge so much to get stuff to you guys up north? Probably a real, legal reason. The new display is awesome, isn't it? Now, should I do my Triton also?!

(tnx again Probedude!)

I did my Tritons. They are much easier to do since you can just cut the wires from the old display, strip them and solder to the new. Nothing to unsolder at all.

Mike

[Probedude]

Found the resistor!

BTW, is it normal for the charger to get warm on the back while charging a 4S (2100mAh) LiPo?

I'm Using an adapter to charge two 7.4V 2S 1060mAh packs simultaneously. I cannot recall if it always did this before the upgrade. No obvious short circuits or accidental solder bridges are visible.


It's normal for the Cellpro to warm up a little during charging - it isn't 100% efficient and the efficiency likely varies with output voltage and current.

How do you have your packs setup on the Cellpro? In parallel you'd be at 2100mAH but not 4s and in series you'd be 4s but only 1060mAH.

Dave

[NewbieCrashPilot]

How do you have your packs setup on the Cellpro? In parallel you'd be at 2100mAH but not 4s and in series you'd be 4s but only 1060mAH.

thanks for the reassurance. I believe it is set up in parallel as per the link below for a two pack adapter

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=969989

[coro]

thanks for the reassurance. I believe it is set up in parallel as per the link below for a two pack adapter

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=969989

Setup on the link is SERIES.

In case that packs have been discharged differently (which is probable), Cellpro have to equalize them and that can be the reason why it becomes warm.

Personaly, I prefer parallel charge of packs that are discharged separately, however - some users have concerns regarding high current if connecting very different state of charge packs in parallel.

I suggest charging packs separately as the best approach, but (applies ONLY to Cellpro charger!) it is possible to use series adapter just as You are doing now.

[NewbieCrashPilot]

coro,
Thanks for the correction, info and advice.
Anthony

[HoverFan]

Well I just finished my "upgrade" :D for the Cellpro and am loving it. I got the parts Dave (man them suckers are tiny :eek: ) and installation was really easy. Anyone with basic soldering skills and a desoldering tool should have no difficulty doing this and man is it worth it.

[Probedude]

Well I just finished my "upgrade" :D for the Cellpro and am loving it. I got the parts Dave (man them suckers are tiny :eek: ) and installation was really easy. Anyone with basic soldering skills and a desoldering tool should have no difficulty doing this and man is it worth it.

Looks great!

[Hellbore]

OLED FTW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! LOLZ!!!!!111oneone ROTFLCOPTERZZ

[norbique]

Hello,

Just to add my thoughts:

I converted my Triton to PLED as well. I recommend it to everyone (who has at least some basic soldering skills). It's amazing!

I got my display from Australia: (US$15.95)
http://www.modtronix.com/product_info.php?cPath=131_142&products_id=278
It was cheaper, than ordering from the link some of you gave us in this thead earlier:
(http://microcontrollershop.com/product_info.php?products_id=1468) (US$18.95)

Another thing:
The 4.7K resistor you put between Pin 2 an Pin 3 turned out to be a little low value, resulting in 3+ Volts going to the LEDs. Manufacturer recommends 2.5V to be applied to Pin 3. So I put a 7.1K resistor instead of the 4.7K. Works fine, very slightly dimmer than with 4.7K resistor but safer on the LEDs within the display in the long run.

[Probedude]

Another thing:
The 4.7K resistor you put between Pin 2 an Pin 3 turned out to be a little low value, resulting in 3+ Volts going to the LEDs. Manufacturer recommends 2.5V to be applied to Pin 3. So I put a 7.1K resistor instead of the 4.7K. Works fine, very slightly dimmer than with 4.7K resistor but safer on the LEDs within the display in the long run.

For me 2.5V on pin 3 resulted in too low of a brightness. I figure if TheDude tied his pin3 directly to +5V and it's been working fine for a while then 3.5 volts on pin3 was okay.

What was the shipping from Australia?
Dave

[parkxx]

What was the shipping from Australia?
Dave

Dave,

I just checked the site and it was $8.41 to my address in California (SF Bay).

-Jim

[NewbieCrashPilot]

Same shipping cost for Canada. At that price it would be well worth the mod...oh, I've already done mine :D No regrets.

[norbique]

Shipping and handling to me was AUD 12.12; roughly USD 9.69. Arrived in 10 days.

They also give discount if you order more displays.
Clubs or people with more chargers should consider this:

Quantity...Discount
1-4...........0%
5-19........10%
20-49......16%
50-99......24%
100+.......30%

But be sure to read this (http://www.modtronix.com/info/boarddiscounts.php?osCsid=d851a3966e0e6115c6765fb5 660578dd) before you apply for the discount.

[TheSteve]

Nice, I just ordered 2 displays from Australia, not only is it cheaper there is much less chance of being charged duties/taxes because its from Australia and not the US.

[Probedude]

Shipping and handling to me was AUD 12.12; roughly USD 9.69. Arrived in 10 days.

They also give discount if you order more displays.
Clubs or people with more chargers should consider this:

Quantity...Discount
1-4...........0%
5-19........10%
20-49......16%
50-99......24%
100+.......30%

But be sure to read this (http://www.modtronix.com/info/boarddiscounts.php?osCsid=d851a3966e0e6115c6765fb5 660578dd) before you apply for the discount.

Great! For fun I had contacted the actual manufacturer of this part to see what my price would be for 1,000 pcs. The 100+ discount from Modtronix beats the price quoted by the manufacturer!

Dave

[coro]

My local distributor said that Bolymin no more makes OLED 1602 displays... Bad news for me. I have heard that short lifetime is the reason.
I will look forward something so nice and simple to use, or hope that what I have heard is not true. TFT may be the nex step but seems to be too complex..
My display mod still has no box around it.. http://members.chello.sk/sklenar/100_3446.JPG http://members.chello.sk/sklenar/100_3445.JPG

[rmteo]

I have come across several major distributors/users also say that they are no longer available:

http://www.crystalfontz.com/products/index-pled.html
http://www.matrixorbital.com/index.php?cName=lcd-character-pleds&osCsid=c2bf09fbff1901d9065ce52d6e38eb9f

[norbique]

It seem we've got to stock up some extra at home for the worst case scenario.

[BARNESJONR]

OK, you guys scared me into ordering another one for my Triton, before they are all gone.

[norbique]

I was thinking the same thing. LOL.

[rmteo]

One piece of good news though is that one manufacturer seems to pushing ahead with a similar technology (OLEDs).
http://www.osram-os.com/pictiva-oled-displays/

The only downside for you guys is that the sizes that they do are very different from what is commonly available. They are much smaller and all graphic capabilities. For example, their 96x36 display (which can display 16x2 characters) measures just 21.1x8mm. Good thing is that many of the smaller sizes are in the $10 range in single quantities. See some pricing here:
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?Ref=255360&Row=195441&Site=US

[LandCruiser]

Finally got the nerve up to go ahead and mod mine. I purchased one of those $3.99 solder sucker bulbs at Radio Shack......what a waste of money!
I finally got the old LCD removed using desoldering braid I had laying around.
My soldering job is not as pretty as Dave's, but I like the finished result!


Thanks Probedude!

[Probedude]

Finally got the nerve up to go ahead and mod mine. I purchased one of those $3.99 solder sucker bulbs at Radio Shack......what a waste of money!
I fnally got the old LCD removed using desoldering braid I had laying around.
My soldering job is not as pretty as Dave's, but I like the finished result!


Thanks Probedude!

Nice! I like your adapter too! :)

Dave

[BARNESJONR]

I have modded both of my chargers now! I like it! Tnx for the great ideas guys!

[LandCruiser]

I never noticed before the LCD swap, but does anyone else have their charger not display the firmware boot screen if the unit has not been used for a day or so?I will get the power up beep, but display stays blank during the boot screen.Unit functions fine, and will display the boot screen if you re-power the unit, but not on initial power up after non use.

[Probedude]

I never noticed before the LCD swap, but does anyone else have their charger not display the firmware boot screen if the unit has not been used for a day or so?I will get the power up beep, but display stays blank during the boot screen.Unit functions fine, and will display the boot screen if you re-power the unit, but not on initial power up after non use.

I noticed that on my brother's. I think the DC-DC converter on the OLED LCD doesn't immediately come up at powerup when sitting around for a while.

Dave

[mike50]

Mine do that occasionally as well.

Mike

[TheSteve]

Received my OLED displays from Australia today. Installed them in 15 minutes and they look great! I used a 5.6K resistor to set the brightless as its what I had and I figure it will make the display last just that little bit longer.
Thanks for Probedude for such a detailed installation description, I've swapped many LCD displays but this was the easiest as all thinking had already been done.

Seeing my CellPros powered up makes me want to change the front panel labels from red to black and white or black and light green.

btw, a friend received two Cellpro's last week, they are version 2.07(pretty sure thats what they were, I know they were 2.0x forsure) The stock LCD displays are terrible to say the least. If he wants to pay for the OLED displays I'll upgrade his, if not I'll atleast perform the contrast mod.

[Zlatko]

Hi,

I couldn't resist it either.

I have a Orbit Microlader pro ( 4-5 years old ), did the conversion on my coffee table within about 1/2 an hour.

The old display has a pinout that is back to front compared to the OLED one.
You can barely see the red trace on the photo of the internals ( old position was pin 14 , on OLED this becomes pin 1)

Orbit has a variable pot inside on the main board, this controls the voltage to pin 3 ( brightness ). It was set for about 0.7V, with OLED I had to set it to about 3V. Didn't have to use resistor or capacitor, just a straight OLED for LCD display substitution ( and readjust the pot ).

Cheers

[InsomniaZZZ]

Hi Dave

There's one more happy owner of a Cellpro 4S with your OLED mod! I absolutely love the new display. :)

Well worth the $26.01 ($19 OLED, $6 shipping, $0.01 for the cap and res).

PS: Many thanks to my friend Tom, who helped me with soldering.... Allright, allright, he did all of it. :)

[Hellbore]

Awesome. Awesome to the max.

[Probedude]

Very nice!

[cnims]

I just did the retrofit. The hardest part was desoldering the original LED as others have said. I finally took a Dremel to the original display and cut the traces apart so I could remove them one by one, since I couldn't remove it in one piece. The surface mount components were tricky to get soldered too, simply because they are so small. Thanks to probedude for the excellent write up plus the caps and resistors.

[TheSteve]

Bringing this thread back!

Does anyone have a spare oled display they'd be willing to sell? I recently got a third cellpro and want to upgrade it but the source in Australia no longer has the display. The US source just isn't cost effective and will cost more for the display then I paid for the charger.
I'm located in BC, Canada and can pay via paypal.

[billyzelsnack]

If anyone happens to have their cellpro open.. Could you please tell me the part number for this..

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=8631793&postcount=7

Thanks.

[TheSteve]

Based on Probedude's cellpro research that appears to be one of the output fets which if replaced likely means the charger will need calibration(could also get lucky and it will be fine)
Here is his blog, scroll down to find tons of Cellpro information:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/member.php?u=107322
I'm not entirely sure he identifies that part, if he doesn't mention it I am sure he has it noted down somewhere and can likely tell you.

[Zeta Phoenix]

To anyone that has done the upgrade, I have been able to find recovering sleeves! Please see my post in the F/S section: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=786561

-Jon

[marc1]

Cool ... now shipping to Canada!

http://www.phoenix-rc.com/

Thanks for making this available ... I gladly would have paid an extra 5-10 to FMA for providing some sort of a backlit LCD / OLED.

[gkamysz]

Is this the same OLED display or compatible?

Ebay OLED link (http://cgi.ebay.com/Fantastic-16x2-Characters-OLED-LCD-Module-Display_W0QQitemZ350033985387QQihZ022QQcategoryZ26 206QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)

[Zeta Phoenix]

Is this the same OLED display or compatible?

Ebay OLED link (http://cgi.ebay.com/Fantastic-16x2-Characters-OLED-LCD-Module-Display_W0QQitemZ350033985387QQihZ022QQcategoryZ26 206QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem)
I have ordered one of these a while ago, and found that they do not fit into the cover opening.

-Jon

[Steve Evans]

Just spotted this mod and it looks like a serious improvement. Anybody know where the OLED display can be sourced in the UK?

The biggest problem I found with the charger was it's packaging, so I reboxed it as documented HERE (http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/sticking-the-cell-pro-4s-in-a-decent-box-t6415.html).

The end result looks like this:

http://www.heliguy.com/Forum/images/userpix/1488_DSCF3139_1.jpg

Steve

[marc1]

How does the charger cool when it's enclosed in the box? Is there are fan? It looks very nice (plus no risk of loose wires entering the charger!)

I just did the OLED mod a few weeks ago, it makes it so much easier to read outside and inside.

Contact Phoenix-rc directly and they should be able to quote you shipping to the UK sales@phoenix-rc.com

Cheers

[Zeta Phoenix]

I just did the OLED mod a few weeks ago, it makes it so much easier to read outside and inside.

Contact Phoenix-rc directly and they should be able to quote you shipping to the UK sales@phoenix-rc.com

Cheers
Thanks for the plug ;). The kit I sell is a STN Display, not OLED. I have looked into making and carrying the OLED kits, but the displays cost 4x as much. :mad:

-Jon
Owner-Operator
Phoenix-RC.com

[Steve Evans]

There is no fan. The box doesn't get at all warm (literally no noticeable temperature rise at all) even when charging at 3A.

Steve