Platt FW-190

[GrrrAmps]

I wasn't sure whether to put this in Electric Scale or Electric Warbirds, but they just created this new category, so here it is.

I'm starting on a Platt FW-190. I'll be using an AXI 5330-FAI, and A123, probably 9S2P. I'm not doing too much to lighten is, and I expect the AUW will be about 16 - 17 pounds. I have the Shinind retracts for the mains and tail.

I don't have too many pics yet, and I'm not the fastest builder, but I'll try to keep the progress posted.

[rmm]

Nice! Seen one at Toledo, it was gorgeous.

[8kasl]

What's the span and is it a kit or are you building from plans?Looks real good so far but I'm wondering about where you have the motor mounted?How will the prop clear the cowl?Forgive me if I've missed something.

[cooper998]

Nice job,
I love Platts planes, I have a Zero kit sitting now for about 10 years from way back when he was selling full kits. Unfortunately its way down on my "to build" list and may not see daylight for the next few years.

cooper998

[GrrrAmps]

I'm scratch building it from Dave Platt Plans. It's a little less than 1/5 scale, with a 79.5" wing span.
But I'm going to sneak an extra 1/4" on each wing panel to make 80" so I can fly at IMAA events if I want.
There's a 1/2" thick lip at the front of the cowl that will glue to the front of that former. In the pic,
the prop adaptor is right up against the former, but there's plenty of room to move it ahead as much as I need.
I'll probably put a pic of the BMW 801 on that former with a dummy fan on the front of it. The bottom half
of the cowl is fixed, and the top half will fold open to access the motor, batteries, and ESC.

[thunder1]

Very nice start. The Axi, as big as it is, looks lost in there. That's an A model, right?Even with the A123s, I'd be looking to lighten the tail as much as possible. Not much nose sticking out there.

[GrrrAmps]

Yes, it'll be an A-8. I've definitely been conscious of tail-weight given the short nose (sounds like an old girlfriend). I built the tail section light and shaved about an ounce off of Dave's estimate in the instructions, that should save four more balance ounces in the nose. And I moved the rudder and retract servos behind the firewall. Of course, when I put in the canopy air cylinder, that'll almost take up what I saved, but better than if I hadn't.

[thunder1]

Man, you're going all out. It'll be awesome when you're finished;-)

[Ralph Weaver]

I'm following this with great interest. I have a full kit including fiberglass parts and gear. No time to build right now, but some day...

[GrrrAmps]

I hogged out the tailwheel location, but have to take it off the jig to finish smoothing out the inside. Before I can do that, I had to sheet one and a half sides of the fuse. I left the bottom half of the port side open so I can still get into it and work. It's starting to get too heavy for the jig anyway. While I was at it, I added the front pieces of the cockpit. I also added the top spine and got it pretty much carved to shape. Now I can remove the fuse from the jig and finish up the tail section.

[Dora Nine]

Looks amazing...please keep posting.

[KOMET 44]

GrrrAmps,How's the P-38 coming along?Also can you post better pictures of your fuse building jig.I looks like something that can be reproduced.Tools like that have become museum peice's for us balsa bashers?The Fw-190a looking great.I just picked up a set of foam wing cores for a Meister Scale Fw-190d for a fall project ;)

KOMET44

[GrrrAmps]

The P-38 is doing good. It's down to the glassing, sanding and fillets. It's about 2/3 the way glassed, my least favorite part of building, but I'm making progress. I'll take some pics of the jig and post them, it sure makes life a lot easier.

The retract tailwheel is giving more trouble than it's worth. The wheel is mounted to the air cylinder rod, and when it's down, the internal parts of the air cylinder make it very hard to steer the wheel. Compounding the problem is the angle that the steering cables have to go to in order to slacken when the wheel is retracted, means that half the force on the cables tries to retract the wheel instead of steering it. Once I figure out that problem, I'll have to make some kind of cover to keep the steering cable from interfering with the elevator horn. It's pretty tight back there.

When you consider that the wheel only retracts half way anyway, and the loss of that air cylinder would make balance a lot easier, I'm half tempted to scrap the retract in back.

[KOMET 44]

GrrrAmps,Go to www.rcscalebuilder.com then go to dave platt forum.

KOMET44

[GrrrAmps]

Thanks, Komet, I've been following that build. I 'borrowed' his idea of how to make the elevator and rudder, I don't think he'll mind, that's one reason we write these things up, right?

I put a shot of air tool oil in the air cylinder and it made it a bit smoother and made a guard to keep the steering wires out of the elevator horn when it retracts by bending a piece of music wire and epoxying it in place around that area. I don't have a pic of it though. The fin is sheeted, and ready for the tip and some filling. I have a few parts on order before I add the pull pull for the rudder, so I moved on to the exhaust cheek on the one side I have sheeted. I think I'll start on the canopy slide next since I have to finish that before I sheet the other side.

[GrrrAmps]

I thought I'd post details as I work through the sliding canopy since I haven't seen this described anywhere before. It's my first attempt at a sliding canopy, so I'll apologize at the beginning for any screw ups I'm about to make.

I started by taking a perfectly good one-piece canopy and cutting it at the opening seam. Then I took a piece of 0.030 G-10 (I would have rather used 0.020, but this is what I had) and made a plate that will epoxy to the bottom rear of the canopy to provide shape support and an attachment point for the mechanism. I have a 4" throw air cylinder that will have a yoke on the end that gets pinned to an arm coming out of the rear plate. The front of the canopy will probably have one ball link ball on either side to ride in guide rails along the side of the cockpit. From what I gather, even on the original FW, the canopy gets pinched as its slides back on the tracks that taper toward the rear of the fuselage. They accomodated this flex by having a hinge at the top of the canopy. I may try and do the same if I can find a small enough hinge to use.

[GrrrAmps]

I made frames for the back of the windshield and front of the canopy by match-sanding 1/8 ply. Then I match drilled 2 holes to accept alignment pins. I epoxied the frames to the canopy and windshield. It needs some final sanding and shaping, but the pics show how it will fit together. The canopy will slide back 4 inches which is just about right for this scale. You can see that when it is closed, the edges of the canopy line up with the fuse sides, but when it's open, the edges are about 1/4 inch proud of the fuse side. I'll make a V-notch in the top of the canopy frame and a slit in the top of the canopy to allow the canopy to flex while it slides back.

[Smash McCrash]

Beautiful. Can't wait to see more. I have a 5330 in a .90 size H9 Funtana and its lost in your cowl.

Mike

[GrrrAmps]

Not too much progress lately, I had to make a new fuse for the Kobra I planted in a North Carolina bean field last fall, and made up some A123 packs.

I cut out part of the deck to open up the cockpit. Then I glued some filler pieces on the sides for the rails to sit flat against. I slotted the top of some square tubing to fit the 2-56 socket head screw guide that will be attached to the canopy. Then I cut a piece of square tubing in half to make two pieces of channel to fit into a slot in the rear deck for the canopy tongue to ride in. I used a piece of scrap 1/16 balsa to keep the channels separated 1/16" to maintain a good fit for the 1/16 G-10 tongue I'll be making. Got all the parts epoxied in, now it just needs some cleanup. Next, I'll attach the 2-56 screws and G-10 tongue to the canopy to fit in all the guide rails.

[GrrrAmps]

Wow, it's been a while since an update! I finally got my hands on the canopy to air cylinder clevis my father-in-law was kind enough to mill up for me. So I was able to finish getting the sliding canopy together. It's pretty straight forward from the pics. I almost finished up the tail section too, just needs a little more filling. I got all the ribs cut out, but I think I'll run the rudder cables and sheet the port side before I start the wing.

[GrrrAmps]

The wing structure is pretty straightforward. The retracts are in, now I can shape the leading edge and sheet the top. The top of the tire is a little proud of the top wing skin so I'll have to open up the skin a bit, luckily, it'll be inside the fuse. The wing has about 11.5 degrees of dihedral. You can't see it too well in the pix, but there is 3 degrees of washout that really looks like overkill, but it's per plan. The tires are 5" and the root chord is 18.5".

[GrrrAmps]

The wing is off of the jig and here she is propped up on her own two legs. The 0.010 G-10 is on order for the flaps and ailerons, so I'll work on the wing innards while I wait for it to get here.

So far she's up to about 9 pounds, plus I figure about 3 1/2 pounds of battery. I'm hoping the rest of it doesn't add more than 4 pounds.

[thunder1]

Great job so far.

I just can't get over the fact the motor looks so small. Have you tried to get a preliminary balance yet?

[GrrrAmps]

Not yet, that's a good idea though. That'll help me figure where to put the elevator and air servos and air tank.

[GrrrAmps]

I'm still waiting for the G-10 to get here for the flaps, so I've been doing other work in the wing. The flap and aileron servos are installed. I'll use one Hitec 645 for the flaps, and a pair of Hitec 5245 for the ailerons. I haven't glued in the flap bellcrank yet, I'll wait untiol the flaps are finished to make sure they're in the right place. I have to keep reminding myself that this is the bottom of the wing so don't get things upside down.

The hinge line is about an inch behind the trailing edge, and I want to use robart hinge points, so I had to figure out a way to cantilever the hinges behind the trailing edge. I made a box for the hinge points out of aluminum tube and ply, long enough to go into the wing. I never used hinge pockets before, but I thought they might be handy to remove the aileron if I ever need to, they fit perfectly inside the 3/16 aluminum tube. I'll epoxy the pockets in after the cantilevers are installed.

[GrrrAmps]

The flaps are done and the port side is installed. 54 little pieces for the hinges and flaps, I didn't think I'd ever get them done! At least now it's pretty straightforward installing the starboard and final tweaks on the linkage. 60 degrees of throw, I believe that's the spec.

[Ldm]

INcredible build , Platt went onto desing these kits for Pica , I have never seen one this nice . I have a Pica 1/6 p40 new in box , saving it for the time to do it justice like this plane , keep up the good work

[Dora Nine]

I like that you went with the "blown" hood--always thought those looked better. I understand you have much more to go, but have you got a paint scheme in mind?

[GrrrAmps]

You know, I can't decide which one to model. I have it narrowed down to 3 choices, all just happen to be number 13. I was originally goin to do Blue 13 of JG 12 with the blown top. But the more I look, the more I like Heinz Bar's Red 13, and Pips Priller's Black 13, but they have the 'flat' canopy. I don't know if I can resist the classic eagle coming out of the exhaust on the Black 13 though, so that's what I'm leaning toward right now. I'd just swap out the canopy once I get it done and flying.

[LaxLife]

Beautiful Build! I vote for Bar's Red 13. Keep plugging we're all waiting for that exciting maiden!

[Dora Nine]

What do think of the 190 at the NASM? I've always been a big fan of that scheme. That'll fit the blown hood catagory. It's an F-8 model. I've included a couple pics of a plastic scale model of the actual plane.

[GrrrAmps]

Too many choices of schemes, I might have to build a few more!

It might not look like much progress, but I got the elevator servo installed, the guides run for the rudder cables, the canopy air valve is installed and working. I had to play a bunch opening and closing the canopy, it's pretty cool. I even had to brting my wife to the shop and show her, she was almost impressed. I put in the hard points in the wing and got it mounted. I even put together the cowl. I'm just about ready to sheet the port side of the fuse, but I may do some cockpit work first while it's easier to get in there.

I ran a preliminary balance check, it's a little bit nose heavy right now, but sheeting the laast side and bottom should cure that, plus the ailerons go a little aft of the cg, I think it'll be pretty close where I won't have to add any extra weight.

Here she is, a pic of the servo installation with the canopy valve, and standing on her own 3 legs for the first time.

[Dora Nine]

Beautiful!!!

[Pipercub18]

God Damn Beautiful plane.

That Ram design for the canopy is simply awesome, coolest thing I have ever seen. Does it make that pop noise from the 3-way valve when opening and closing?

-Jason

[GrrrAmps]

Thanks. Nope, no pop, it just hisses while the canopy moves. The ailerons are made. The hinge pins slide into the pockets and a set screw holds them in so they can be removed. The bottom of the aileron is 3/32 proud of the wing bottom so it will be flush after the bottom is sheeted. A little more sanding to fit and it'll be ready for the control horn and linkage. The top sheeting over the flap will get a cross grain piece to finish it off and add some strength.

[GrrrAmps]

I made up the instrument panel and installed the bigger cockpit pieces since it was easier to get them in before I sheeted the fuse side. It's pretty tough to get a good pic though. Now that the bigger pieces are in I'm ready to finish the sheeting.

I got the connectors on the motor and ESC and gusseted the firewall, so I should finally be able to run the motor this weekend. I have an 18x12 and 20x10 APC props, Jeti Spin 99, and 10S2P A123, and am anxious to see what kind of readings I get. Still need to wire up a series and a parallel connector first though.

[J Villa]

Sweet! Keep up the good work, I can't wait to see how this FW 190 turns out!

[Dora Nine]

Any new progress?

[GrrrAmps]

No progress that you can see in pictures. I set up the ESC and sheeted the fuse port side and bottom. I made my series/parallel connectors and should be able to run it and get some power numbers this weekend. I'm almost ready to sheet the bottom of the wing, just need to final shim the LG and make sure the retracts are working right. Feels like I'm getting close to the point where I can put the glue bottle down and start finishing, but fairing the bottom of the wing to the fuse will be tough.

For sheeting the bottom of the wing, I'm thinking about trying a new (for me) method where you apply glue to the ribs, lay the sheeting on it, pick up the sheeting, let the glue set, put the sheeting back on and use an iron to set the glue. Of course, I'll test it out on some scrap since I haven't done it before. But it sounds like it'll save a bunch of work.

[GrrrAmps]

This is where I need some suggestions from the motor gurus. I got the airplane set up to test out the motor, and of course the rain couldn't hold off for another half hour so I had to move into the garage.

I ran it with 10S2P A123, 20X10 APC E-prop, and a Jeti Spin 99 ESC. The numbers came out to 1420 Watts, 46A, 30.25 V. I was hoping to draw closer to 65 Amps and 1800/1900 Watts. I couldn't get a reliable rpm reading, probably because I was in the garage. The tach settled in at 11,200, and it sounded like it could have been spinning that fast. But the KV is 235, and at 30 volts, that would only be about 7000 rpm absolute max. I checked the rpm registered in the Spin controller and it said 5700 rpm (set up as a 14 pole motor). Sounds right from a KV point of view, but why would the Spin readout be almost exactly half the tach readout? It's the first time using the spin, so I don't know if I'm using it right, the instructions leave a lot to be desired.

So it looks like I'm going to need a bigger prop, but there aren't too many APC e-props bigger than this. Given the numbers, can anyone give me some prop suggestions, I'd really like to go with a three blade.

Mejlik makes a nice 22X10 and 22X12 3-blade carbon fiber, but at $82 a pop, I don't want to buy too many just for testing.

Oh, and it looks like it's coming out nose heavy. Who woulda thought? Plus I still have to hang that 8 oz spinner on the nose. I'll have to try and put the air cylinder and the rest of the radio back as far as I can. No way I'm gonna add tail weight to a FW.

[Pipercub18]

Looks remarkable!

-Jason

[hul]

fiddled a bit with my motor simulation. Had to reduce Kv to 205rpm/V to get a match with your measured data. I think your pitch speed is a bit low at 54mph.

A 20x10 3-blader would draw around 65A, depending on blade shape and how well the pack holds voltage, same sort of pitch speed.
A 20x14 (2 blades) would draw around 55A and give 67mph.

An adjustable pitch Solo prop may be an option for you: http://www.soloprops.com/

Hans

[RTaylor]

Gramps
if you have flourescent lights thats would explain that rpm number.
Randy

[GrrrAmps]

Thanks for running those numbers Hul. I guess it looks like I'll have to run more cells. Would you be able to run those numbers for 12S A123 with the 20X10 and a 22X12? I was hoping to get the pitch sped up to about 70 mph. The Solo props are nice, but I don't think I'm ready to spend $300 for the prop yet, not to mention, I'd need a custom adapter to get my spinner on there.

I just looked at that pic, what a mess of wires! But hey, it was only for testing. I don't have flourescent lights in the garage to screw up the tach. The door was open but it wasn't too bright out, that's probably what messed up the reading.

Back to working on the wing while I try to work out the power.

[hul]

oops, $300 is a bit steep...

12s2p A123, est 34V, 20x10 -> approx 60A, 60mph
12s2p A123, est 32V, 22x12 -> approx 80A, 65mph

I would use a higher pitched 20" prop with the existing 10s pack:
10s2p A123, est 29V, 20x13 -> approx 55A, 65mph
10s2p A123, est 28V, 20x15 -> approx 60A, 73mph

Load voltages are estimates (based on these curves: http://www.elektromodellflug.de/akku-test/26650-x.htm), don't have a battery model for these cells. Kv is 205rpm/V, adjusted to replicate your measured numbers. Used the same prop constant for all props.
Take these numbers with caution.

Static thrust may be a bit lower, in flight thrust will be as high or higher and you can throttle back without falling out of the sky from lack of speed.

Hans

[GrrrAmps]

Turns out that 12" pitch props are hard to come by. I had to order 20X12 and 22X12 direct from Master Airscrew, and they're out of stock on the 20X12. Anything with more pitch would have to be a variable pitch prop.

Not too much building in the past couple weeks, spending too much time at the flying field :) . I started putzing around with the gun hood. I just happened to have some small hinge stock laying around, so I cut a couple small hinges and glassed them to the hood. Then I'll mortise them into the fuse, and glue in a piece of ply they can screw into.

[LaxLife]

Have you looked into scale, operable props? NRG Research makes a line of them called Solo Props.
www.soloprops.com
we just maidened our TopFlite Giant Scale P-51d with a 24" four bladed Solo Prop and a custom cut TruTurn spinner. The 25lbs AUW electric powered (Neu2215/1.5y, 12s 9000mAh, JetiSpin200 ESC) flew with authority and never got above half throttle.

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/9/24308154313.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=6474716)

http://img2.putfile.com/thumb/9/24311542680.jpg (http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=6475839)

[hul]

Turns out that 12" pitch props are hard to come by.
APC makes 20x11, 20x13 and 20x15 props
Mejzlik makes 20x11 and 20x12

Hans

[GrrrAmps]

I went to the APC site and thought I checked the whole list. I must have stopped when I got to the props that use the hub. I just looked again and saw those others you mentioned, time to make an order. Thanks Hul!

[GrrrAmps]

The gun hood is hinged and on. I also finished sheeting the bottom of the wing and put on the wing tips. I hollowed out the tips as much as I could. It only saved about 0.6 ounces, but every little bit helps.

So far, with batteries, rx, cowl, wheels, and everything else, it weighs 15 lb 6 oz. Not sure how much the finish will add, but hopefully I'll come in at 17 to 17.5 lbs.

Next comes the gear covers, I'll make them out of fiberglass, then the part I've been dreading.....making the belly pan/cowl fairing. I think that's gonna be tough to get right, but once done that'll be just about it for the structure.

[GrrrAmps]

The bigger props finally came today, maybe I'll have a chance to test them out this weekend.

I've started on the part I've been dreading most, the belly. I'm going by a 1/32 Hasegawa model, and the sparse diagram on the plan. So far I've got balsa flares glued to the front of the leading edge, and a plate for the exhaust area glued to the wing sheeting that matches the outline of the wheel opening. Next I'll wrap some 1/16 balsa around the outline of the wheel opening, and use it as a dam for chunks of foam and microballons. But I'm not sure of the contour between the roundness of the cowl and the front flares on the leading edge. I can't find any good pictures of this area.

Does anyone have any pics I can take a look at?

[GrrrAmps]

I put in a wheel well liner and some scrap balsa filler. Then I filled the area with microballons. Now to let it cure and start sanding.

[GrrrAmps]

After about 4 coats of microballoons the belly is in pretty good shape. It's at a point where I can put some foam in the wheel well and shape it to make a form for glassing up some pants. After that I can cut out the well, give one more coat of microballoons and get the well to its final shape.

I also started blocking out the bottom cowl, feels like a barrell maker cutting a bunch of staves that I can carve to shape. I'm getting close to the end of my block stock, I hope I can squeeze out a bit more.

Oh man, I just looked at the pic - ignore the clutter on the bench, the shop is well worked in :eek:

[rogerchr]

GrrrAmps
What's happening on that Royal P-38? I need some inspiration to start scratch building one this winter.
Roger.

[GrrrAmps]

LOL! Thanks for asking! I don't remember how far along she was when I last posted, but the pod and wing are glassed and the outer panels are covered. Still need to glass and cover the booms and tail, make a couple hatches, and add detail. Here are a couple teaser pix to get you going. I got a little side tracked when I got the 190 plans, then cut a couple formers, then just wanted to see what the fuse would look like, before you know it I'm into the build of the 190. But I won't start another one until these two are finished (sure). This'll give me two maidens to look forward to this spring.

I like working from the Royal plans, I just blew up a set for the Bearcat to 71" (1/6) and that's close to the top of the queue. I'm not sure if I'll do that or the Boeing 307 next. So many planes so little time. Either way, these two are going to fly before I start the next one. This is a terrible addiction....

[rogerchr]

GrrrAmps
You didn't happen to cut out a second set of ribs and bulkheads for me did you :D Seriously I have been looking around for a short kit for the P-38 but I guess that Royal model is not that popular for the cutters except on a custom basis. I did find Cornell Michaels website that says call for quote.

I have all the material for the Royal B-25 and all the patterns made and the empennage framed but I really want to build that P-38 first.

What motors are you planning on using on the 38?

Sorry to put a bump in your thread.

Roger.

[KOMET 44]

GrrrAmps,the build looks great so far.Do you have an idea what the total weight will be? Thanxs,

KOMET44

[GrrrAmps]

IIRC, the total weight right now is in the low 15's. I'm hoping that after glass and paint it comes in at about 17 lb, but it might wind up closer to 17.5.

[KOMET 44]

17.5 lbs ,"Will this be RTF Weight?" I want to do the Meister scale Fw 190D and have a RTF Weight max 20lbs.Mine will have a 103" w.s. I'll keep and eye on this thread.Thanxs,

KOMET44

[GrrrAmps]

You sure about that weight? This 80" 190 is spec'd at 17-20 lbs. I would expect a 102" to be close to 30 lbs. The 17.5 lbs I'm projecting is the AUW RTF.

[thunder1]

This page says 28-35 lbs RTF for the Meister Scale Fw-190.
http://www.meister-scale.com/FW190A/fw190a.html

I'd say the 28lbs would be on the light side. With such a short nose, you're going to need extra weight to balance.

17.5 lbs ,"Will this be RTF Weight?" I want to do the Meister scale Fw 190D and have a RTF Weight max 20lbs.Mine will have a 103" w.s. I'll keep and eye on this thread.Thanxs,

KOMET44

[KOMET 44]

Thunder 1, I'm going to build the "LONG NOSE D version", not the short nose A version like GrrrAmps.Well I'm gonna keep 20lbs pasted when I start building plane.

KOMET44

[GrrrAmps]

I filled the wheel well with foam and spackle and got it sanded to the right shape. Then I traced the pants from the plans, taped a piece of carbon paper to the wing where the pants go, then used the tracing over the carbon paper to transfer the pants outline to the wing. Then I inked the outline of the pants to the wing to be used as a guide for where the glass goes, and where I need to cut when I'm done. Now to lay up some glass.

[KOMET 44]

Looking good so far .I like this tutorial thread :cool: What do you think, Warbirds over deleware 2008?

KOMET44

[GrrrAmps]

I was definitely thinking of bringing it to WOD next summer. Maybe we can get an electric contingent together and make a showing.

I had some white solite laying around and it was perfect to act as a mask for the glass since it's transparent enough to see the outline through. So I ironed it down and laid up 3 layers of heavyweight glass and resin. After a night of curing, I traced the outline from the wing onto the glass and pulled it off and have a set of pants. Now I just have a few more little bits to add to the wing, then I can sand and glass it.

[GrrrAmps]

Well, the wing is glassed, all the servos are in and the cowl and hood are installed. I'm ready to make the wing fillets, then I can glass the fuse. Here are a couple pics of the keys I made to hold the cowl down. The cowl is held in position with 4 dowels, and I made two keys to hold it down. The key is a knob with a dowel that goes thru the former and into the cowl, and a magnet to hold it in place. This way the magnet only has to hold the key instead of trying to hold the cowl down. I've been doing it this way for a while now and it works well.

[J Villa]

Hey Gramps, I love your idea for the cowl attachment, the keys and the magnets are ingenious. I have the same kit but elected to go with the full cowl from Bob Holman. I was just curious if you were going to put the MG's in the gun Bay? I decided to put my airtank there....BTW, my Fw is glow, but my next one will be electric. I hope you don't mind if I poach some of your ideas??? Thanks a million. J.

[747drvr]

I'm having a hard time visualizing how the cowl is held to the firewall . Could you show a pic of the back of the cowl or something that will make me see the light !?

Marc

[GrrrAmps]

Sure Marc, I'll take a couple more pics. But if you look at the pics in post 50, only the top half of the cowl is removable. The bottom of the cowl top has 4 dowels in it that go into 4 matching holes in the bottom half. The 4 dowels position the the cowl top in place, and the keys hold it down. I'll probably need one more key in the front though.

[747drvr]

Thanks ! No need for the pics . I got it now...

Marc

[GrrrAmps]

I started on the wing fillets. I made a saddle out of 1/64 ply and epoxied it to the fuse side, the made some 1/64 ribs to match the countour. In the bigger bays, I prefilled as much as I could with foam and filled everything in with epoxy/microballoons.

While that sets up I started on the gear doors. I cut out the shape of the door in the wing then cut out the final shape of the glass door I laid up before. I mounted the door to the strut and made sure everything fits well. I just need to make some final adjustments to get it to lay flat, an on to the other side.

[KOMET 44]

Looking Good :d :d

Komet44

[GrrrAmps]

Finished the fillets and thought I'd post a couple pics before glassing the fuse.

The weight is creeping up, all told I'm up to 17 lbs 4 oz, with the rest of the glassing and paint to go. I'll probably end up over 18 lbs. Light for the airframe, but I may have to go to 12S2P. I ordered a couple more remanufactured dewalt packs that should be here next week. Not a problem, right now the CG is about an inch behind the plans, and when I glass and paint it, it will be a even a little further back. The extra weight of the cells should just about balance it perfect.

Got a good deal on the packs from tool king. $80 per pack, plus use code TKOFF10, got another 10% OFF. Got two packs shipped for $150.

[LaxLife]

Its a beautiful build. I love those long, spindely "legs".

[Ron101]

Very Nice work.... I wish I had time to build

Ron

[hul]

looks phantastic, can't wait to see it fly

Hans

[Dora Nine]

Same here. She's looking better and better everytime I check in. :D

[GrrrAmps]

All the bumps and bulges I'm going to do are done. The whole plane is glassed and filled. I laid out fake access panels in aluminum tape and added some aluminum tape latches to them. Then I drew out the panel lines in pencil, and put chart pack tape over the lines. After I prime the wings, I'll pull off the tape and have panel lines in the primer. It's supposed to be in the 60's this week, maybe I can sneak home lunch time and prime the wings. Now I'm ready to draw the panel lines on the fuse. I used dress maker eyelets as bezels for the cannons. They are just about the right size and are easy to bend and form to the leading edge. I made the cannons out of telescoping pieces of aluminum tube, I'll glue them in after the wing is painted. It's starting to feel like this is never going to get done, so many little things to do....must stay focused......

[GrrrAmps]

I finished priming the wing. For the fuse, the panel lines are masked, and I added aluminum panels and made some styrene panel hinges, so the fuse is ready for prime. I sprayed some RLM 74, 75 and 76 swatches from Tamiya paint and brought them to Home Depot to color match some quarts of exterior latex.

Next, I'll cover the control surfaces so I can get them primed, then it's on to the paint.

[R/C_Addict]

Looks beautiful. I can't wait to see this up in the air. :D

[Neil Morse]

What a superb job on one of my favorite all-time planes! You are doing a masterful job -- can't wait to see the finished model (and I bet you can't wait either)!! :D Hang in there, it's worth it to create something so special.

Neil

[GrrrAmps]

Thanks, guys.

The control surfaces are covered, she's all primed, and she has all the rivets I'm putting on. I should be able to start slinging paint this weekend. I have a pair of 5 1/4 " Williams Bros. smooth contour tires coming, and I'll finish up the pants and retracts when they get here. Then do the final radio install, make up another 6S pack, and take her to the field.

[Gree]

This has been a phenomenal build! I have been watching the progress over the months and to see it now at this stage is very exciting. Can;t wait to see the final paint. PLease post videos of the first flight. Congratulations on a stunning build

[Goinav8n]

I was down in Kissimmee Fl last week and saw this FW-190 in the hangar. Lee The owner of Stallion 51 Corp says it a replica not yet flown but close to it. Very large and cool looking plane. Its a D model so not quite like yours. I didnt have my camera but there is a A model being restored at the museum there too

Pretty unusal to see these birds

Jeff

[vinde]

It must be one the replicas built by Flugwerk, a german company.

Flugwerk.de (http://www.flugwerk.de)

[wollins]

subscribed

[fletchace]

Grrramps,

Love the work your doing here. It looks outstanding!

Can't wait to see which scheme you pick.

Fletch

[R/C_Addict]

Any updates? Its been a while. Hows the paint coming?

[GrrrAmps]

Here she is, my version of Red 13.

Finally, most of the painting is done, just a bit of touch up and the crosses on the bottom of the wing is left. Making stencils and masking takes a lot of time! The biggest job left is finishing the gear covers. Then finish installing the radio and making a latch for the gun hood. I'm thinking about making it so pushing on the MGs opens the hood. In the hood I'll put all the charge and fill jacks, switches, and a jumper for the ESC.

Looks like the AUW will be 18 lbs 4 oz, assuming I can run with the 10S pack. I put a 20x13 prop on it but haven't test run it with this prop yet, but it should get me to about 1800 watts based on what I saw with the 20x10. we'll see.

[R/C_Addict]

That paint job is amazing! Great work!

R/C_Addict

[redflyboy122]

sweet!!

[fletchace]

It looks excellent! It literaly tooks like a huge Alfa, same scheme red 13.

Fletch

[karl k]

Good work.

I am running a123's in a 20 lb plane.

I can answer some power system questions if you have them

Karl

[Smash McCrash]

Damn Nice GrrrAmps!

[RTaylor]

Gramps
Great job and it looks great.
You are a craftsman
Randy

[KOMET 44]

Nice job :cool: GrrrrAmps, Any chance you will make the jumbo jamoree in N.J. May 24&25?

KOMET44

[GrrrAmps]

Thanks for all the kind words guys, it definitely gives inspiration to get her finished up!

I was planning to go to the jumbo jamboree, but since this is my only plane that would qualify to fly, and I'll have to get a few flights on her first, I was probably just gonna go as a spectator. I can get her done in time for sure, just have to see if I can get some flight time on her first.

Maybe see you there?

[Dora Nine]

Fantastic work, it's been a real pleasure watching this plane come alive.

[airplanebuilder]

you really know how to work the wood. I bet your dad :cool: taught you how to do that.

keep up the good work.

[RiBell]

Thanks for all the kind words guys, it definitely gives inspiration to get her finished up!
Then back to the P-38 ;)
Rick