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View Full Version : Help! Need LR-1 Help


flyup
Jan 26, 2007, 04:14 AM
I am looking for instructions for the LR-1.My kit did not come with any.I am a beginer builder.And i'm Kind of stumped with no directions.I am installing a Evolution 36. Do I off set the engine for torq.What kind of elevator and rudder hinges do I use.Does that dowel elevator setup really work,no fluter?.How do I cut the rudder?.Any help would be great...Thanks

Z06kal
Jan 26, 2007, 02:24 PM
I am looking for instructions for the LR-1.My kit did not come with any.I am a beginer builder.And i'm Kind of stumped with no directions.I am installing a Evolution 36. Do I off set the engine for torq.What kind of elevator and rudder hinges do I use.Does that dowel elevator setup really work,no fluter?.How do I cut the rudder?.Any help would be great...Thanks


Center line the motor mount so that the spinner is flush with the body. I would add some right thrust to start off with and add more as needed. Ditch the included spinner it is garbage and has lots of vibration. For the elevator I used a tape hinge known as a compression hinge. Use fiberglass reinforced tape on the bottom and regular packing tape on top and you basically squeeze them together so the two tapes touch. Makes a super solid hinge that doesn't allow any air through to help reduce flutter. It will take a few trys to figure out how to space the elevator so you have the proper movement but no slop. I have seen some people use dual push rods for the elevator halfs however I used piano wire and made a "U" and drilled a hole in the vertical fin to connect the two halves so that I only needed one pushrod for the elvator. As far as the rudder take a dremel and completely cut one side of the skin with a steady hand where the guideline is. Then on the other side take an exacto or box cutter and carefully start scoring the material on the guideline until you get the needed flexibility but don't be to zealous or you might "cut" the rudder off in which case see compression hinge instructions up above but basically this is called a "live hinge" since the fiberglass skin makes the hinge. For control horns I fabricated my own using 1/8" thick G-10 fiberboard which www.mcmastercarr.com sells. Basically cut little triangles and drill a 1/16" hole for the metal clevis. Then slot the control surface with the dremel and then roughen up and epoxy the g-10 into the control surface. I did the same for the ailerons. For the ailerons just use steel piano wire pushrods threaded for a clevis with z-bends at the right spot. For the tail I used the same wire glued into a hollow carbon pushrod tube. I epoxied the servos to the wing and I use Goop on the servos in the fusalage but you may use the provided tray (I didn't have the room since I stuck a huge battery in there since I did an electric build). These are the same building techniques I use on my Dynamic Soaring gliders which go well over 200mph. MY LR1 did about 150mph and it was tottaly flutter proof.

flyup
Jan 27, 2007, 01:10 AM
Thank you so much ZO6kal.Your methods are much better than the methods I have heard..Thanks again... flyup