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Rob_P
Jan 22, 2007, 01:21 PM
In constructing a model boat I need to mark and cut out some 1/16” (1.5mm) thin ply. Overall size approx 50” x 7”. The skins combine a combination of straight edges and smooth curves.
What is the best way to cut out such a shape ?

I’m sure this is far to thick for a model makers knife.

It it were a smaller piece I’d use a fine toothed fret saw to rough cut and then finish to the line with a file / sand paper, but this is just too big to clamp.

I don’t have a scroll saw and even if I did I suspect that one may well easily splinter the back face.

I have a Dremel 400 XPR., do they do a tool that might be suitable for straight edges and curves ?

Rob

Umi_Ryuzuki
Jan 22, 2007, 01:49 PM
X-acto makes some nice little razor saws and handles that would do the job.
A utility knife with a new blade ought to work also. If you score each side good, the
plywood will pretty much snap on the line.

When I sheet a ship hull, I start at the top, or the water line and work to the keel.
I run each board straight, and as it goes around a curve I allow it to follow till it hits
the keel, or another board edge, and cut the end off to fit. Letting the board go where
it wants is the key. That way each strip is straight cut, an you never have to cut a curve. The ends will all be custom cut at angles where they meet the keel or previous
board edges, and a few custom cut triangles will fill any gaps.

If I find any images that show this construction I will post them.
:)

toesup
Jan 22, 2007, 01:57 PM
Use a sharp Xacto blade and score your lines carefully to start, then add pressure with each pass of the knife and you will soon be through the 1/16" thickness.
Anything other than the Xacto knife is likely to 'rip' the ply unless its a very fine (number of teeth) saw.
Both the superstructure on the Sun XXVI and the two Springers i am building are from ply.. the only ply i needed to bandsaw was the 1/8" and the 1/4".

You might want to try a Dremmel with a fine cutting disk on some scrap first and see if this works for you.

jeepers1940
Jan 22, 2007, 11:38 PM
So that's how it's done. Thanks, Umi.

Jerome Morris
Jan 23, 2007, 10:47 AM
Use a razor knife with a new blade. It's the best thing for cutting plywood. Matter of fact I use it for a number of model building items.

ropanach
Jan 23, 2007, 08:02 PM
This is what I use, see pic.
It's a Fiskars product, made for cutting clothing material, you can find it in the sewing department, use it with a steel ruler, I have cut up to 1/8" plywood with and as small as .005 plastic with great results.
Hope this helps

Roger

ernest2
Jan 24, 2007, 02:27 AM
i dont know how delicate 1/16 ply are, but i cut 1/8 and 3/16 plywoods using utility knife. these are ordinary type plywood thou.
ernest

Treetop
Jan 24, 2007, 09:10 AM
You could make two patterns out of MDF, then sandwich the 1/16 between them and trim with a router with a bearing on the straight bit, like you would use for trimming plastic laminate.

Alternative is to make one pattern, then temporarily hot glue (low temp) the ply to it and trim the same way, with a router, then heat the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun, or use double stick carpet tape, the thin stuff.

Another alternative is to use a coping saw and a fret saw board, might take a while but would get the job done. You can make one easily.

http://www.traditionalwoodworker.com/product_info.php/cPath/37_475/products_id/2900

Ray Farina
Jan 24, 2007, 11:32 AM
Myself and my son both do model building using a scroll saw with a fine blade. I cut 1/8" V's and 1/4" keels with no problem. You can also put the blade in so you can cut from the side and not the front. Just sand off with a 150 grit sandpaper on a block with no problems. Additional for straight edge cutting I use a steel edge and a sharp exco knife. An investment into a scroll saw for about $125.00 at sears is and asset, or maybe you can find a used one for about $25.00 to $40.00 at a wood working store.

green-boat
Jan 24, 2007, 01:30 PM
I just use a nice new sharp #11 blade and some heavy hand pressure to get it done. Some spots may require several passes.

Trisquire
Jan 24, 2007, 02:08 PM
I've gotten away with scissors on 1/32", but 1/16" might be pushing it.

Tom