Looking for CNC Mill Part I

[uscra112]

Cranky: First pic of Phoenix I couldn't figure it out. Second pic with the work-board in place I got it. Bloody Brilliant! Wish I'd thought of it!

Spreslar - how are you doing the wire-heat control? Maybe looking at the resistance to determine temp? Like a hot-wire air-flow sensor? Love to see that circuit in a post. I'm an electronic moron, so my scheme was to detect the thermal elongation mechanically and use that to move a pot.

[balsaman]

I am doing it wrong.

I mentioned in an earlier post I was trying a 24 volt supply and the resistors were overheating. I was using 3 - 10 ohm resistors with the two center taps from each motor tied to each resistor.

Well, my caculations were wrong. I talked to Rustle at stepperworld and he set me straight.

I came up with the value this way:

Rusltle mentions on his web page he sizes the reistor to run the motor at 125% of rated current. So:

125% of my motor rated current is 1.75 amps. So, it takes 13.7 ohms at 24 volts to make 1.75 amps. Subtract motor resistance of 3.7 ohms gives you a resistor value of 10 ohms. But, when you use one resistor instead of two, according to Rustle, you need to devide the value by two and increase the wattage by x2. I didnt do that, so I ended up with the equivalent of two 20 ohm resistors on my motors which makes the current closer to 1 amp each. They were underpowered. This was compounded by the fact that they were too small, only 25 watts, so the resistance was increased even more as they overheated, making for even less current and torque. With cool resistors I could jog an axis at 35 inches a minute, but that didnt last as the resistors heated up.

What I really needed was two 13 ohm resitors per motor or one 6.5 ohm resistor on each motor, to make them draw thier rated current of 1.4 amps each.

Since I have 10 ohm resistors, I plan on trying two 10 ohm resistors on each motor running at 20 volts instead of 24. This will give me a motor current of 1.45 amps. I will let you all know how that works out.

I am just posting this so people can learn from my mistake!

Eric

[crankorgan]

balsaman,
If you read about all the controllers out there. They tell you to run the motors at a higher voltage while keeping the current to what the label on the motors says. Russ is running the motors hotter than normal. This gives more speed and torq! Make sure the controller can handle the extra current. Most hobby controllers max out at 1.25 amps per phase. Most also use two resistors per motor and some have current set resistors you have to change on the board. Your controller has FET outputs so you can get away with alot. The math is different for every controller out there. Just like Windows compatible!

Cranky

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by uscra112
Cranky: First pic of Phoenix I couldn't figure it out. Second pic with the work-board in place I got it. Bloody Brilliant! Wish I'd thought of it!


I am impressed with the guys flying CDRom motors. They are three phase steppers. Right up my alley!

Cranky

[uscra112]

The stepper motor and the brushless motor seem to be the same thing, mechanically. The only difference is in the drive, as far as I can see. Steppers energize coils according to a sequence commanded by the computer, brushless motors sense the rotor angle and switch coils according to that.

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by uscra112
The stepper motor and the brushless motor seem to be the same thing, mechanically.

uscra112,
It's a stepper for sure! The controller is an H bridge and a half or three half bridges. I found a circuit for a controller. I think I will stick with CNC for awhile. I was looking ahead for a motor system for my mythical inflatable plane.

Cranky

[uscra112]

A circuit for driving the motor as an airplane motor? I wanna see that.

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by uscra112
A circuit for driving the motor as an airplane motor? I wanna see that.


Here is the best info I found so far! It's a PDF file. Even I would just buy a controller unless I can find a way to reduce parts.

http://www.intersil.com/data/an/an9642.pdf


Cranky

[spreslar]

what guys flying CDRom motors?

Thanks

Steven

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by spreslar
what guys flying CDRom motors?

Thanks

Steven

Steven,
Look in the Electric Flight section under brushless motors. The motors are easy to make. The controller costs about $50.

Cranky

[dsBeliever]

Originally posted by DICKEYBIRD
I use CompuFoil, TurboCAD and AceConverter for .dxf to G-Code conversion.


Hey D...Bird

Is there another piece to this puzzle? I've got the three products mentioned above, but do you need CNC software to interpret the G-code as well?

Thanks

Paul

[balsaman]

Dsbeliever,

Yes, you need Kcam3, turboCNC or CNCPro, just to name a few. They interpret the gcode and send the signals out the parallel port to the controller board.

Eric

[spreslar]

Gents

what program is the best?

Steven

[balsaman]

Probably CNCPro, but it costs $199.00. I use TurboCNC for $20.00. Kcam works great but runs in windows. Steppers don't like Windows.

Eric

[dsBeliever]

I was looking at CNC (that appears to be the name of the software) sold by Gilles Muller for about 32 bucks US (http://gm.cnc.free.fr/index_en.html) . It runs under windows and there's an english version.

The interface seems to be very user friendly (I set up a triple taper wing in about 20 minutes right after installing the software). Anybody familiar with it? He's got a link to some projects that were made with the software. A couple of them look pretty aggressive and it sounds like one of them is a negative for a hollow molded wing? http://gm.cnc.free.fr/examples.html

Thanks

Paul

[senna12625]

Paul,

That's a 4 axis foam cutting program you're refering to. Take a look at...

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CNCFoamcutters

This group has a great amount of experience with that particular software.

Hope this helps...
Senna

[dsBeliever]

Thanks Senna.

Joined the group and saw a few familiar names. I'm sure it'll help a bunch.

Paul

[balsaman]

Well, I got all my resistors together and hooked it all up to a 20 volt powersupply. I was still using the 5 volts from the pc supply for the logic part of the controller. I had a heck of time getting it to work. Intermittant problems with all the axis sometimes working sometimes not. Seemed like the Fets were getting stuck "on". I was getting frustrated. Emails to Stepperworld were sent. It seemed like everything was right but just no reliability! Rustle at Stepperworld was very prompt and offered suggestions but none seemed to work.

On a long shot I asked Rustle if I should have the negatives of both powersupplies tied together with a jumper. I didn't dare try it without asking as I didn't want to fry my controller. He said I could try it just to test it. Well guess what? I put the jumper in and now everything is perfect! Very reliable and now up to 40 inches a minute! Fun to see it fly!

Resistors get toasty which is normal. I can now keep my coffee HOT all day on those babies! Poor power supply is cooking too :D I think around 8 or 9 amps. It's rated for 12 so should be ok.

Now that it's running just right I plan on cleaning up all the electrical type parts in a box of some kind with a couple fans for cooling. I think I will let all the fins from the heat sink stick out the top of the box. Since changing powersupplies, the wiring's been a mess!:o

Panzypoof,

Hows the machine going? let's see the progress! We need another cnc in SW Ontario!

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Not to worry it's on the way. Need Tom to finish up the Piker Board and hook up the Motors.
Some time just after New Years I figure.
Been playing with my eye in the Sky Colour video Cam last few days! Now building a better Antenna for it.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=653975#post653975
And I've also been working on the PBY-2.
So Ya got any plane to build in mind?

[balsaman]

Not sure yet. I am still building my Giles. It's covered, waiting for gear installation now. Won't take long but I lack motivation because it's too cold to fly. I will get to it in the new year I suppose.

I will probably build a park flyer type airplane. I was thinking a small twin DD with speed 280's or even the wee motors from gws. When I say park flyer I mean small airplane, but probably not suited for a park! I want faster so I can fly in the wind. Since I don't feel like working on the Giles perhaps I should work on this instead!

I will ponder it and let you know.

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Treemagnet explained this to me,
OK ya scan a rib off the plan. ORC trace
clean up the shading lines etc. Now in Coral draw using a pen plotter trace the outline.Forget about trying it with a mouse,
Save the trace as a DFX and then in TurboCad get the Gcode. Can we do this?

This is my latest Plane SU-26 She's a Simple one! and flies well in the wind. Got plans.
The one I like when the Garbage lids are rolling is the Pico Jet. I've had it fly Backwards:cool:

[balsaman]

Panzypoof,

No need to trace. Scan the image off the plans, save as .BMP then open in Wintopo freeware to convert to DXF. Convert to gcode with ACEConverter and cut!

I decided on a speed 400 geared funfly plane. Here is a test rib I cut. The softer balsa cuts ok but more fuzz needing more sanding.

Eric

[Tree_Magnet]

Hi cranky I am building panzy's Piker 4X controller board so
i am trying to get it up and running with turbocnc could you help me with any setting in turbocnc to get it working timing active hi or lo ........

Thanks
Tom

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by Tree_Magnet
Hi cranky I am building panzy's Piker 4X controller board so
i am trying to get it up and running with turbocnc could you help me with any setting in turbocnc to get it working timing active hi or lo ........

Thanks
Tom

Tree_Magnet,
The step signal sits high and goes low for each step. So it is an active low. I gave panzy most of the settings several messages back. Let me know where you are in the program or what it is not doing. When you power up all motors should lock even without a computer hooked up. Two phases should be on for each motor. You can use a light bulb to test.
Hook the lightbulb to ground. Then touch the metal tab of each output transistor. You will see two bright and two dim or dark.
When you run the motors each transistor will go on and off.

I have TURBOCNC setup here, so if you can direct me to the proper section, I can help you.

John

[Tree_Magnet]

Hi John
yes the motors are locked. when i try to run the stepper back and fourth it ony moves one or two steps. when i look at the output of the 7474 pin 6 it toggles once and no output on pin 5.
i changed both ic's same thing. both chips have 5v and 12 on the steppers. i am using 2 seperate supplies for now and will incorporate the pc power supply when i get it working. hope this helps any thing this in the past?

thanks
Tom

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by Tree_Magnet
Hi John
yes the motors are locked. when i try to run the stepper back and fourth it ony moves one or two steps. when i look at the output of the 7474 pin 6 it toggles once and no output on pin 5.
i changed both ic's same thing. both chips have 5v and 12 on the steppers. i am using 2 seperate supplies for now and will incorporate the pc power supply when i get it working. hope this helps any thing this in the past?

thanks
Tom

Tom,
In TurboCNC on the main page select 4.JOG when you hit the arrow keys the motor will only jump a step or so. But if you hit the "K" key the jog will get longer. When you hit the arrow key the next time the motor will spin more than a few steps.

This may be your problem. I am going to look at the colors
of the motor wires next. I have the same ones here! You might
have the PHASES wrong.

John

[crankorgan]

Tom,
When Pin 6 is high Pin 5 should be low.
When Pin 9 is high Pin 8 should be low.

Like a seesaw!


Motor wires.

Black goes through a resistor to +12volts
White goes through a resistor to +12volts

Red Phase 1 PH1
Red/White Phase 2 Ph2

Green Phase 3 Ph3
Green/White Phase 4 PH4


John

[Tree_Magnet]

wow your quick
so the stepper is set up right . when i jog the stepper back and fourth is only moves 1 step forward and 1 step backwards mmmmm. almost like the 7474 is only getting 1 clock pulse. i looked at pin 3 and its getting multiple. so i guess it only passes 1 clock and thats it. does this sound about right?

Tom

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by Tree_Magnet
wow your quick
so the stepper is set up right . when i jog the stepper back and fourth is only moves 1 step forward and 1 step backwards mmmmm. almost like the 7474 is only getting 1 clock pulse. i looked at pin 3 and its getting multiple. so i guess it only passes 1 clock and thats it. does this sound about right?

Tom

Tom,
A 7474 will divide by two. A long stream of pulses should
make it go back and forth several times unless there is a problem
around the 7486. Then the 7474 does not get reset so it can toggle back. Look for a solder splash or bridge. Try another
motor output. All 4 can't be bad! Did you understand about hitting "K" in TurboCNC so it will put out more pulses? Thus the motor should spin not jump. I am going to lunch. I will be back in one hour and I will be here all day.

John

John

[Tree_Magnet]

Hi John
Ok now it seems to work found a small solder bridge. so now that the motors rotate forward and back there seems to be noise. as the motor turns it glitches is there a filter cap for this?
Tom

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by Tree_Magnet
Hi John
Ok now it seems to work found a small solder bridge. so now that the motors rotate forward and back there seems to be noise. as the motor turns it glitches is there a filter cap for this?
Tom

Tom,
Good Job! Now we need to run the motor at 8 inches per minute in DOS. On the shut down box select REBOOT in DOS mode. You can run TURBOCNC in a Windows window but the
motors will jump.

If you are running in DOS then drop the spped of the JOG rate back to 8 inches per minute. If that makes the motors run smooth then it is a voltage/software adjustment. Give me the Volts
and resistor values.
John

[senna12625]

Even though I have pretty much dropped out of posting (the house construction beckons... as well as the county inspector!)... I want to wish all of you a Very Merry Christmas & a safe and Happy New Year!

Cheers everyone!!! :D

Senna

[Tree_Magnet]

Hi John
Well it seems to work fine now the glitching was that I was running it in a dos window not in dos daaaaaaahh anyway thanks for the help i will be going over to panzys place sunday to install everything. I guess all i need now is to set up the software over there.

So MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL and a safe NEW YEAR
time to go and spend time with the family

TOM

[crankorgan]

Tom,
If you add the HOME switches you will need to drill a hole
in the ground plane near the outputs for the switches. I left that hole off. Any problems just yell!!! Good job with the board.

John

[balsaman]

Merry Christmas all!

Eric

[AirX]

and Happy New Year. If the new year is fruitfull and I can work all year then it will be my turn to ask the questions on what to do to make my mill... :)

Eric :)

[G1K]

Merry Christmas and happy new year all.

I have just finished reading all 50 pages of this thread.. wow, great information in here..

I am working on a CNC foam cutter. I have both x and y axis complete, I just need to attach the lead screws and it's done.

I built my own computer interface with the help of a friend who has a sherline mille converted to CNC. He is currently running turbocnc, and we have made quite a few motorcycle parts with it.

I can post a schematic for the driver later today, it was made with mostly Radio Shack, with a few parts (driver chip, FET, and opto isolators) ordered from DigiKey. Since I used a generic board to mount the components, it looks messy, however it is functional.

I'll post some pics later this after noon.

Ryan

[balsaman]

Hey guys,

Turbo CNC v 4 will be out soon. I am one of the Beta testers! I have been testing it and made some suggestions, most of which will be in the final version 4! Like hold the key to jog, let go to stop! Also, dedicated keys to jog each axis! (curser keys for x and y, pg up, pg dn for z).

Also, now there is mouse support and drop down menus, built in gcode editor, start, stop, resume anyplace in the gcode file and so much more I can't type that long! I am very excited about it. IMHO it will be just as good or better thatn CNCPRO, and still only $20.00 to register.

I don't work for Dak Engineering! I just like the product! Here is a screen shot of version 4.

Eric

[Zoltar]

Best wishes for 2003 to all RC-Group members!!

Its been quiet arround here!

Here a link to http://www.cnctechnik.de/
A nice development of windows CNC-software running through an old DOS PC.
Comfort of Windows, Sturdiness of DOS.
Thats the way I would like to see it!
(No I am not a Beta tester and do not sell the program...;)
Its still under development and free for download.
Just have a peek or try it.
It reads usual formats included PLT(hpgl 2,5D)files - making your CNC life a little bit easier. But for the real CNCer who does not belief that PLT files work fine for 2,5D CNC milling -- ISO (G-Code) for 2,5 and 3D can be used too. So there you go.

Also for those new or interrested in CNC, who want to have a look at a very nice and well presented and documented project (if you understand German) have a look here http://www.www.bohrplotter.at.gs/
Including very interesting electroncs details.

Have fun!

Meet you next year @ the RC-GROUPS!

Chris

[Tree_Magnet]

HAPPY NEW YEAR to ALL

I STILL HATE TREES

TOM

[PanzyPoof]

:) :D :D MY CNC took it's first steps today:D :D
Tom and Rudi braved the Snow Storm and gave over this evening. We mounted the motors a couple of adjustments and then Tom Fired it up.
Whow what a difference from a lump of Coal to a moving machine.
All axis are quite smooth and will be better with new Shaft connectors & a little Oil. Mine are a little wobbly so Rudi will machine up a new set;)
Tom wanted to test for a .5" movement and we got.497" Guess that's pretty darn close.
Still have to do the stops and tuck all the wires safe. A 12V PC fan is also on the list to keep things a little cooler.
Cranky ya get to add anouther completed machine to the List. Will get ya a Nice Pic for You're Gallery once I've cleaned it up:)
Whow it's Nice to have Friends:D

So who's gonna be next:eek:

[PanzyPoof]

Hmmm??
Now I can Wear the Honorable CNC Avatar.:p
OK still have to cut something:rolleyes:

[balsaman]

WooHoo another one percenter!! And in Canada too! Beauty eh?

Eric

[Tree_Magnet]

Ok lets cut a plane :D

LETS CUT THOSE TREES

[crankorgan]

PanzyPoof,
Good job! I have been upgrading my computers using VIA curbside models. Glad to see we all made it to 2003.

Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

So It's now offically A CNC machine.
All the work and This is what I can show you:D

Still have to add limit switches, a Cooling Fan and a Power is on Light. Maybe a Kill switch!!
Took a few more tweeks today but she's operating quite smoothly. Now it's software tweeking.
Oh ya Gotta send off my $20 to Dave and register TurboCNC.
Showed the Wife the results! ;) and Ya her responce was nice Hole. Where I quickly set her straight as it to being a circle not a Hole. Daaa
Some People:confused:
:D :D ;) Dancing :D :cool: ;)

[crankorgan]

PanzyPoof,(1%)
Don't forget the oil on the aluminum channel. Put
a drop of motor oil on your finger and work it into the places where things slide. A few drops on the threaded rod is also a good move. You can take the Floating Nut out the X axis
if you need more accuracy. I only added them into the design to
prevent alignment problem. Now you can play with CAD!

Good Job!

John

[balsaman]

Panzypoof,

Nice hole! Great job! Great to have a working machine eh? What kind of bit you got in there? Looks like a burr free circle. I get more fuzz.

Eric

[Tree_Magnet]

balsaman

Panzypoof is using a small burr that has 2 flutes. last night when i was over at his place we got his router up and running. the bit we found was something we found in his box o bits.
So its been at least a year since i have done any cnc milling was wondering if i could get the g code for your motor mount so i can try to refresh my memory and play with panzys machine tommorrow night

Thanks

Tom

[balsaman]

I will send you the gcode in your PM.

Are you guys good with CAD PanzyPoof or TreeMagnet? That is half the battle! If not, take a course at a local college. That's what I did. Made all the difference. I am pretty good on the 2D stuff. I want to take a 3D course yet. I hope next winter.

My CNC is down right now. I cut the parts for a plane then took the electronics off to clean it up and put it in one box. I am also adding automatic spindle on/off and spindle speed control(not automatic, just a dial) at the same time.

I have been playing with MasterCam to do my tool paths and make my Gcode lately and it is MUCH better than AutoCAD->AceConverter. It's another program with a steep learning curve, but I have a tutorial book that I am following which is helping. I can also ask the toolmakers at work questions. I no longer have to redraw the lines to account for tool diameter. Mastercam does it all! If I decide to use a different diameter bit the next time I just select the larger tool in mastercam and it redoes the gcode automatically. I was finding AceConverter had some reliability issues (read bugs). Mastercam also displays your Stock (wood) and animates the tool cutting it. It checks for problems/crashes too. It's a very expensive program but I got an older version.

The toolpaths for the picture of the ribs etc. on my last post was done in Mastercam. I got about 20 hours practice under my belt before I could get the tool paths right for those parts.

Eric

Eric

[balsaman]

have a look.

[Tree_Magnet]

Hi balsaman i use cad all the time at work autocad and solidworks
mainly. I use mastercam 7 or 9 at home for gcode but havn't done anything for tha past year. Guess now i will start using it alot more to keep panzypoof cutting. I found master realetively easy to use after a few hours of playing with no manuel:( .
Thanks for the g code to play with. If you ever need help with cad let me know

Tom

[PanzyPoof]

As to bits so far we just tried the one. It's a Surplus oldie I had.
Was at the Home Depo and picked up this one by Dremel #650 1/8 Router Bit @ $12can. Hmmm?
THe other is more of a File/rasp and a little Dull. A new one would be Ideal I figure??
Have yet to try cutting Ply. But I know Tree Magnet will be over soon to give that File a Try;)

Thinking now toward clamping System for the Trolly. Pins in foam is OK for thin Balsa But:eek:

[PanzyPoof]

OK so here's the CNC Router Table.
Just Installed a Neon Shop light over the Machine!

[PanzyPoof]

And anouther showing the Table/PC cabinet. Hmmm that was the most expensive part of the Build:D

[PanzyPoof]

LAst View for now is Controler Corner, Just added 12v fan and a Power is on Flashing Idiot lite.

OK I'll sit down and Price this Puppy out.
I'll hint it was a BargoooN:cool:

balsaman say could that be a CNC RC Airplane ya got there:rolleyes: :cool:
Next a New Avatar:)

[balsaman]

I want to try one of those file/rasps. I use carbide endmills and for soft balsa there is some tearing rather than cutting. The softer the balsa the worse the finish is. There is a place called Cutter Supply in my town where I buy the endmills. They are carbide, not HS steel so are very tough. I paid $7.00 each for them and broke two the first week I had my mill! I am still on my third and don't crash much now so.... They also have tons of misc carbide rasps etc. in a bin for $3.00 each. I will fish some of those out and try em next time I am there. I have tried a Dremel bit I bought at Can. Tire but it started smoking when I tried cutting lite ply. I think it was too fine and not cleaning out properly. I think too that the dremel bits are too much $$$ for the little HS steel bits.

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Here's a close up of the cut and bit used.
I'd say it's a Vfine file bit. Too short this one.
There all from Active Surplus (Queen St) Ya know the Shop? 50c each but years ago, could be a loonie now.
Cranky would have a field day in there:cool:
Will have to hunt some more down. Soon:(
TreeMagnet did stab the Foam a few time's :D it's dead:o

[uscra112]

I know a machine-shop owner who's been using MasterCam for years. But it costs real money, don't it?

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by PanzyPoof

Cranky would have a field day in there:cool:


PanzyPoof,
I have a hardware store across the street from my
house. That's about it! The owner of the hardware store is very sick. The store is only open four hours a day. It is only a matter of time before I have to go miles for anything hardware related. The rents for small shops in my area is over $1000 per month. This has driven everybody out. I only have dollar store and nail salons. I would be in heaven to have a surplus place here. My nearest one only sells yesterday's parts at tomorrows prices. I do have a place near me that sells endmills. Only four flutes and only carbide. $8 each I want to buy some three flute endmills
next.

Cranky

[uscra112]

Hey, cranky - troll eBay for "Dremel bits" You'll probably get lucky.

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by uscra112
Hey, cranky - troll eBay for "Dremel bits" You'll probably get lucky.

Hi,
I like using quality carbide bits. HSS seems to go dull quickly
around me! I would like a surplus place for ideas. The one closest to me used to be great. Now it's just computers and NTE parts. In fact upstairs is NTE. I can get almost any IC or Transistor there. I am looking for bearings-gears etc! Things that start me thinking.

Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

This Surplus in Toronto is kool. Basement has lot's of bin's full of motors, bearings, gears, wire, etc. You would spend all day;) Big box of bits! just ya have to fish for the files, mostly drills.
How about these Bits? They look Fine!http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&page=42891&category=1%2C46168%2C46171&ccurrency=1

[balsaman]

Dennis,

Those are nice cutters. They look like what I use, but they are too large. 1/8" is the smallest they sell. I use the 3 flute 1/16" bits just like those. I would like to try a 1/32" two flute if I can find one not too much $$.

Eric

[Tree_Magnet]

Eric chrck out KBC tools i got some 1/32 mill bit for under i think $20 but they ar 4 flute

Tom

[crankorgan]

Hi,
You should be able to buy 1/8" shaft four flute carbide endmills 1/8" 1/16" and 1/32" for around $8 each. 1/4" shaft
ones are twice as much.

Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

balsaman its tree_magnet here at panzypoofs g code works like a charm. question which post processor did you use in mastercam.

Thanks

Tom

I STILL HATE TREES

[balsaman]

Hi,

I DL'ed it from Turbo CNC's Yahoo forum in the files section. I will email it to you TreeMagnet. The motor mount was done with AceConverter since I already had the offsets done for that one in AutoCad.

MasterCam will not work with Turbocnc without the Turbocnc POST processor. Turbocnc does not understand many of the G and M codes the default Post processor uses. It took me many many hours to figure out why. Some Turbocnc user was nice enough to write the POST processor and upload it to the Yahoo group. My NC files have worked perfecly since grabbing it.

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Thanks balsaman we cut out a mount and it's 100%
That's a Keeper:)
Tree Stump left a while ago but he got a lot figured out. Tom even did a scan and Cut, came out 1;1 So all looks good!
I'm feeding on the info I'm able to pick up interesting but still way over my head.
WE even have a CNC plane in mind, foam and Balsa.
Hmmm think I'm gonna be buying balsa in bulk soon.


Cranky we need home switches now:confused:
and I'm off to fetch'em so any special ones I should get? Normaly open or Closed?? button or metal spring arms?
Will get into mounting them later this week.

All is running kool and smooth knock on MDF:D

I ran some $$ on paper and figured my machine cost me approx $475.00can to build. Not counting many items already on hand ex;dremel, cabinet.PC. etc.
Could have done it cheeper but I'm ok with that $ spent.
So you Lurkers get building.
OR if you rather just get the CNC Router as a quick build Kit; See Zoltar;)

[Zoltar]

Hey, Panzy.

Good work!
Now get routing.

But if you wanna skip scale and go for the real challenge build 1:1 Then you better change to something like this:

http://perso.wanadoo.fr/prouz/Otocoup/index_e.htm

Its French but speaks for itself.......

Bye

Chris

[Tree_Magnet]

Thanks balsaman i found a post processor that turbocnc understands ill let you know when i get home fom work tonight. the post processor that you sent me i asume that it runs under mastercam?


better to be a tree stump than a panzy poop:D

Tom

[balsaman]

That's a big one. I wonder if it will work. It will NOT be fast.;) He has Nema 23 steppers geared 3:1. I would hate to have to wait for it to move home:D

But....it's the journey after all. ;)

Panzypoof, Good job. I see you are a happy camper.:cool: You have truely made your machine from scratch. I still am awed when I watch mine dance effortlessly accross the table. Yours looks very nice. I like the paint!

Eric

[balsaman]

Originally posted by Tree_Magnet
Thanks balsaman i found a post processor that turbocnc understands ill let you know when i get home fom work tonight. the post processor that you sent me i asume that it runs under mastercam?


better to be a tree stump than a panzy poop:D

Tom

Tom,

Yes, MasterCam.

I choose Post from the Operations Manager, then select "Change Post", then find the TCNC351a.pst file. When it creates the gcode it uses the rules in that file. I have not figured out how to make that post processor the default one yet. I will have to look into that sometime. For now I just select it each time. My skull can only hold so much info! Like Cranky says, sometimes you just go back to what you know works!

Eric

[Tree_Magnet]

Ya i know what you mean i did know how to set the post processor as default ( a year ago) i will look at it tonight (see if i can clean out the cob webs from the old mellon) and let you know.

Tom

[Zoltar]

Well Eric, you maybe right that its not fast.....
But with carving 15 or maybe 20 mm MDF or whatever , high speeds actually do not matter that much.

Think about the possibillities building full size sailing boats or airplanes..........big toys, boys !

I found another one exploring the net. This is a nice innovative all metal Balsa router machine. The nice thing is that it does not use driving spindels....
http://cnc25.free.fr/planscnc25.htm
Maybe interresting for those just considdering scratch building a all metal machine.
The construction contains minimal parts and uses ballbearing very clever!
Its a good concept a complete detailed plan is provided from Innovative France!


Also ....
Make a vinylcutter knife yourself. In the end we want all some nice decails on our plane!

http://tmonnot.free.fr/Fraisage/Vinyle/Vinyle.htm

Greetz,

Chris

[PanzyPoof]

Chris
Ya that's a big puppy.
Steen Aero lab (Steen SkyBolt) have a monster too for doing ply wing ribs, vacume holder the hole nine yards. Also a Water cutter for metal. Me I just have a hack saw:D
My 1;1 ribs were done all 1/4" spruce & T-88 in a jig. Man was that a party :confused:

[Zoltar]

Panzy,

There you go!
First build your giant Router, design your plane, Test it as a scale-model and then build and fly it 1:1.

The Sky is the limit!

How about a Space Shuttle :)

Chris

[balsaman]

You are correct Chris, the feed rate will be low when cutting heavy materials.

Dennis, nice ribs! You fly in that thing? You could have used that big cnc.

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Those aren't my ribs there the CNC one's from Steen Ltd.
I build mine from Sticks:D Only the nose piece was routed by a clamp on jig. The old way;)

[balsaman]

You are a brave man. I build airplanes that crash...I just build another. Use plenty of glue, thats all I have to say :D .

Here is my CNC powered airplane so far. Notice the clear covering...I couldn't cover up those sweet ribs! I just hope I can see it! :rolleyes:

Eric

[Zoltar]

---Those aren't my ribs there the CNC one's from Steen Ltd. ---

Why not?

Panzy,

You eat Chinese a lot? ;)

Chris

[PanzyPoof]

Big Toy and build with Glue! T-88
One Day;)

[PanzyPoof]

OK enought of the DayDreaming and Drooling! back to the CNC.

So I picked up a few micro switches to install for the Home stops. So how and where on XYZ should I place them??
I'm thinking Z would be located Down. To stop tool at table level (correct?)
And Y at the far side/back (YA?)
And X should it be forward trolly?
Simpler question does it really mater where home is? where's best?
Thanks
Denis
Ya Chris I love Chinese Cusine. But not the American S&S Chicken Ball version.
Had Spicy Seafood Undon for lunch;)

[balsaman]

Dennis,

You can do what you want but I put my home switches at 0,0,3. The z being 3". When I want to clamp the material down or change the tool I send the machine to home. That way the tool is up out of the way. I cut a 1/2" bolt off at exactly 3" so what I do when I change the tool is put the tool loose in the collet, put the 3" long bolt on the table under the tool. I then let the tool sit on top of the 3" bolt and tighten the collet. This way the cutting tool is exactly 3" above the table and when it goes to cut at 0" it just skims the top of my plywood table.

This is working great for me. Actually traditionally for tool makers, machinists, z = 0 when its at the top of the material you are cutting. Cutting depth is actually a negative number. I don't do this because it's easier to have the z= zero spot the same all the time. Also cad drawings are drawn at z=zero by default, so the converted file is happily at zero cutting depth on it's own.

Another thought is to put home at the far edge of x and y (for me that would be 12, 24) that way the table is sticking way out for easy material placement. I considered this but then I would first have to wait for the cutter to go to 12, 24, 3, then clamp my stuff at 0,0, then start the Gcode and wait for the cutter to come all the way back to 0,0 to start the job. Up to you though.

Another thing I did was to allow the table/z axis to over travel the limit switch without damaging it or crashing into it. For example the z home is set at 3" but I can make the z go to 4" and it just slides past the switch. I made it that way for all three axis. My table is 12x24 but in reality I can go about an inch or so over that. This way I put my switch at 0 but if I need to I can go to -1.:D

Look at the pic. I made a plastic wedge thingy to make the switch, and just keep sliding by if need be.

Sorry, long post.;)

Eric

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by PanzyPoof

So I picked up a few micro switches to install for the Home stops. So how and where on XYZ should I place them??


Hi,
Look again, they are shown on the final pages of the plans. The Z axis one is up top. When you send the machine HOME you want the Z axis to stop cutting. You want the Trolley to come all the way out of the FRAME so you can load or remove the part. Use the micro switches that have buttons not levers. The button ones repeat home within .001 LIMIT switches can be done with the software. Since the machine starts at HOME 0,0,0 The software knows the GCode is sending it TOOOOO far.

My Z axis cuts in a Negative direction. A starting cut is about
Z-1.56 Some people use positive numbers off zero for the
Z axis. A Bridgeport Boss milling machine uses minus number off
of zero/HOME.

Cranky


Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

Plans:confused: Oh YA:eek:
Ok then I'm gonna Get started on mounting them now.
Tom should be dropping by this evening.
I like the Tool post set Idea and slide past! will do. Good one Eric;)
Trolly full forward and full access to load will Do.
Joged the tool around trolly surface and seems in out 0.005 kitty corner,
So not too shabby Eh:cool:

[balsaman]

Thats better than mine. :D Mines out .010 to .015. I should have used MDF as my sacrificial pegboard/cutting table. I used 1/2" plywood and no amount of shimming will make it perfectly flat! It's naturally wavy. What are you going to do for clamping etc. on your table?

Eric

[uscra112]

Balsaman:
If you have Z-home at +3.00", I assume that means that you drive toward 0.00" going toward the table. That's consistent with the EIA standard for axis nomenclature. Reason I point that out is that software that processes from CAD files to G-code will probably make this assumption also.

[balsaman]

Yes, +3" and 0" is tool on the table.

I finished the control box. Wow, I should have started with a bigger box! There are 2 powersupplies 5v + 20v, the controller, spindle speed control and spindle on/off and a fan in there. I may put another fan yet. We will see what transpires. I made it so I can unplug the 3 axis steppers via 9 pin (serial port type) connectors. I also did the home switches with the same connector but switched the male and female so It's idiot proof.:D Never know when there will be an idiot plugging it all in:rolleyes: (me). I hope it doesn't get too toasty in that little box. It's 8" x 10" x 6" deep. If I must I will do a seperate box for the two powersupplies.

Eric

[balsaman]

Here is one of the connectors for axis motors, and dial for spindle speed. On the right is the heatsink for the resistors. Resistors are mounted inside, with the heatsink outside. I didn't want a bunch of wires hanging out the box going to resistors. I may put a fan on the heatsink on the outside. I should have bought a chopper board. Oh well, next time.

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

:( Opps Guys (Cranky)I missplaced my Plans must be some where hiding.
Could ya Email me Direct 7motel@interlog.com the Sheet on how to wire up the stops. Piker Board.
Thanks! Tom is gonna freek if I can't produce it.
30min drive one way for him:eek:

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by PanzyPoof
:( Opps Guys (Cranky)I missplaced my Plans must be some where hiding.
Could ya Email me Direct 7motel@interlog.com the Sheet on how to wire up the stops. Piker Board.
Thanks! Tom is gonna freek if I can't produce it.
30min drive one way for him:eek:

Hope I sent it in time! Don't forget you might need to drill
a GROUND hole.

John

[PanzyPoof]

Thanks Cranky:)
Now that's Great Customer Service.
Will post results later.
Denis

[ExtremeLite]

CNCers,

I have just been reading through all of the thread!

I was amazed at the results that can be achieved with a low cost homemade CNC router. For my next project I was considering a foam cutter. Having seen this thread it is defiantly going to be a CNC router.

Balsaman,

Some questions on your design:

What are the specs of the THK guide blocks and rails for the axis and how long are the rails for each axis?

What is the size of the baseboard?


ExtremeLite

[PanzyPoof]

So anouther finishing step Completed!
Rudy and Tom were here and after I finished installing the switches, Hook up began:)
Then it got ugly:( For 2 hrs they babled and dabled.and fretted and Frowned! untill finally all 3 little Pigs went Home:D
Don't know and not gonna Ask!
I'm just happy all works fine now:D

ExtremeLite You're best bet is order a Set of Plans that'll give ya all the answers.
I highly recomend to do so!
The truth is there's more info here then I think
Cranky want's to See out!
He's been good natured in regards to this thread.

[PanzyPoof]

My Y and Z Home switches. I guess the only thing to be carefull is not to Jog/crash into them.

[PanzyPoof]

Here X
The arm bends back just fine see:rolleyes:
Eric Thats a nice power Box setup.
Soupping her up already Eh:cool:
Ya gotta Get a Strobe or a rotating beacon,
Forget the Backup Beeper.:)

[balsaman]

Balsaman,

Some questions on your design:

What are the specs of the THK guide blocks and rails for the axis and how long are the rails for each axis?

What is the size of the baseboard?


ExtremeLite [/B]

Hmm, ok well lets see. The base of my machine is 35" x 28" (too big) :). The x-axis rails are 30". The y axis rails are 25" The z axis rails are 7". Actually one of my x axis rails is two parts, as I salvaged them and I couldn't find two 30" long. The linear bearing just slides over the seam.

I don't know the specs of the rail/bearings. I salvaged it from the dumpster so I wasn't too fussy.:D The rail is aprox. 1"x1". I don't think it matters that much. I have seen some smaller rail and bearings that would work just as well if not better. In fact I grabbed it for my next project;). I know it's all pretty expensive to buy.

Cranky's designs don't require the rail and I would have gone with it if I didn't have the ones I used.

Panzypoof, nice job on the switches. It's great to be able to get back to home the same place each time. Don't jog into them or they will bend/move.

I started hooking up the new control box I made. All my wires for motors/switches are too short now.:mad: Tomorrow I make new wires/cables and get it hooked back up. It's been down for a week and I miss it! I did get to try the spindle software on/off tho and its working great! Spindle speed control is working great too. Now I will leave my router wide open and use the dial to control it. The router speed control was 8000 minimum, then variable to 25,000, then to 35000 in one step. Now I have full control from 0-35000. 3 on the dial sounds about right;) not too loud.

Eric

[balsaman]

Panzypoof I am liking that marble paint. I like it more each time I see it.

Hey John, I get dust on my lead screw and if the dust is heavy it binds up my axis. Just the Y axis screw which is the only one on the bottom. I try to keep it clean now. Do you get this? I imagine it's not as bad on the smaller rod size that you use. I am thinking of some kind of sliding cover to keep it out of the powder. I just had it once when I was cutting checkers pieces from 1/2" MDF with a 1/8" cutter. You should have seen the amount of powerdery sawdust. It's like flour. Anyways, was wondering your thoughts on it oh CNC GURU.

Eric

[balsaman]

Ya gotta Get a Strobe or a rotating beacon,

I know when mine is on 'cause its moving.:D

Eric