Looking for CNC Mill Part I

[Slow Riser]

I have read some CNC builders use old dot matrix printer guides; the ones where the print head goes back and forth on the 2 chrome rods.

I have searched the internet and can source them. Has anyone here been able to source these?

Thanks...Henry

[balsaman]

Mark,

That will do! Start building. Take pictures!

Eric

Panzypoof,

TurboCNC works fine. Very cheap at $20.00. It works forever without registering too. The user interface is a bit awkward at first but grows on you with time. Version 4 is on its way which looks promising. I expect the price to go up when it takes off. Registering gets you all future versions free. I registered it.

The only other software from the link you provided I use is deskengrave which is free.

Ace converter from YeagerAutomation is also free and a great tool. http://www.yeagerautomation.com/ace.htm

I use kcam3 to view and plot the tool path. http://www.kellyware.com/

Runs your mill too but not well on my computer. Yours is faster so maybe better.

Eric

[crankorgan]

Slow Riser,
Printer rails are only hardened steel. A bronze bushing rides on them. The printers people are using are wide carriage printers used for reports. Most are 20 years old. They cost more to ship then they are worth. You might still find them at HAM flea markets. Only a packrat would hang on to them. After you find two printers, you then have to know how to use the electronics on them. They use belt drive instead of threaded rod. The steppers are sometimes 7.5 degrees. That is 48 steps per inch. Not too good for anything. Look back over the posts. I listed a site owned by Florin. He made a PCBoard milling machine out of printers. But he has the skills to do it!


Cranky

[Slow Riser]

I'm just researching and am planning to build a foam cutter. It looks like most of the designs here are on 2 axis.

Just trying to get my head around the guides. Lots of techniques and I assume cost. I like you philosophy to build the CNC with everyday parts.

Do you have plans for a foam cutter?

[PanzyPoof]

Having harder time tuning up Z axis Short span alignment more critical. Gonna go with tube coupler. Now what page was that on:confused:

thrmaln. Have a look at the Foam Cutter thread
Treemagnet has!
I would say his unit is alot simpler along X axis.
Ball bearing slider using the table as guide neet.
The y &Z are based on printer slides. Ya he scooped a bunch of printers (like a TreeSquirel).
Test foam cuts are on the Money.
Looks like I may be building a foamie after xmas:D
He's dying for a Mosquito! make that 2 Tom!
Hmmm any one got any motor mounts :D

[PanzyPoof]

senna12625, how's you're build comming.
Still Hobbling around or ya better now;)
Some more pics please when Convenient.

[PanzyPoof]

Opps Off on one end. Scratch that bearing end plate. No Biggie easy rebuild.

[crankorgan]

Slow Riser,
Read back through the posts! I listed plans for foam cutters.

Cranky

[crankorgan]

Hi Gang,
I though there was a foam cutting conference?

Cranky

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by PanzyPoof
Having harder time tuning up Z axis Short span alignment more critical. Gonna go with tube coupler. Now what page was that on:confused:

thrmaln. Have a look at the Foam Cutter thread
Treemagnet has!
I would say his unit is alot simpler along X axis.
Ball bearing slider using the table as guide neet.
The y &Z are based on printer slides. Ya he scooped a bunch of printers (like a TreeSquirel).
Test foam cuts are on the Money.
Looks like I may be building a foamie after xmas:D
He's dying for a Mosquito! make that 2 Tom!
Hmmm any one got any motor mounts :D

PanzyPoof,
Make sure the end cuts of the aluminum channel are cut square.

Cranky

[senna12625]

Panzypoof,

I'm doing pretty good! I'm in the process of building my house and was putting up standing seam metal roofing. One particularly large panel while being passed up to me caught the wind and pulled me off the roof... twisted my ankle really good! Doc said it would of been better if I had broken it. Shorter recovery time!

Anyway... I'm getting around better now... thanks for asking! Unfortunately my building permits will hit up against the '180 day between inspection' limitation the 16th of this month. So I MUST work on the master shower mud pan and get it in and inspected. Leaving for Seattle the 18th! (I'll still have access to a computer though)

I do have my 3 Vexta steppers mounted. I'm about to cut my threaded rod and do the bearing plates. Balsaman's tip about running the BED all the way out to get a proper alignment for bearing drill location will be employed. Maybe I'll make the bearing plates generously oversized so I have a bit of wiggle room once the bearing hole is drilled and properly aligned. Trim away the overhang after plate is mounted to the channel. I made my NUTS out of 1/2" UHMW plastic... no backlash can be felt.

Baby steps compared to you and Balsaman. Hey... I really like Tree_Magnet's foam cutter! I see him over in my YAHOO CNC group quite often. I invited another CNC foam cutter to join in here and post pictures... his handle is SPRESLAR. He's posting up in the Sailplanes/Slope section now. Maybe we'll see him soon!

I'll get pics posted just as soon as I get this mud pan put in!!!

Senna

[thrmaln]

Hello All,

Thanks for the replies regarding my machine. Yah I know its a bit complex. I approached it as if it were an industrial assembly machine and made it as robust as possible to use the items I already acquired from my work. I also designed in overtravel protection using optical limit switches that cut the power to the axis if the stage travels too far. This way if for some reason the stages take off due to a software glitch it wont self destruct the machine, just damage some foam! If I had not acquired so much free stuff I would have most likely made it much simpler using a droor slide method. Plus, its an investment in our hobby that I only have to pay for once. For those of you who are looking for inexpensive linear bearings you might want to try a composite (frelon) bearing. They work quite well and are inexpensive. Also, when you call them tell them you want 2 samples to verify the design and they will send you 2 for free which will lower the cost. if you use a total of 3 per axis (triangle pattern) then you will only have to pay for 10

www.pacificbearing.com/ (simplicity series)
www.igus.com (iglide bearing)

Another option is frelon or Oilite bronze bushings running on hardened shafting. They work great for the Z axis (verticle) since they dont need to support much load. When used in the y axis (horizontal axis) they tend to bind a bit if they are supporting to much weight. another great source for items is Mcmaster carr. They have just about everything in stock and they ship very quick. Some of their stuff is over priced a bit but its a great sorce to buy screws, bushings, pulleys amd any other small item. www.mcmaster.com/

Anybody have a source for surplus or cheap structural aluminum extrusion such as 8020 or parframe?

good luck everyone and I will post some pictures after I start.

Best Regards,

Marc Webster

[uscra112]

Mark:
Welcome aboard the thread, but read back a ways. There's already been a discussion about using drawer slides. I'm deep into the automation racket myself, but a large part of the game on this thread is to use stuff you can buy at Lowes or Home Despot or the local hardware store. I'm doing mine entirely out of wood, partly just to prove it can be done. Yes, wooden ways!
I'm starting to see old bits of 8020-like extrusions show up in scrapyards. It's been used in the auto industry long enough that some of it is already outdated and gettign replaced. I don't bother looking at it 'cause it's all banged up.

How are you driving your gantry? Screws on both sides?

[thrmaln]

Hey USCRA,

Thanks for the input. WOW entirely out of wood thats a challenge. Your not using a wooden screw are you? I have seen some mahines made out of MDF and melamine which seem to work just fine. As for driving my stages. It cosists of 4 axis with nema23 steppers and precision rolled screws. The motors for the y axis are located toward the rear of the machine with knobs on the front to allow me to manualy set the zero point. The z axis stages have the motors below with a knob on top to adjust them as well. For your wodden ways, are you making them like a dovetial on a mill or rectangular? Will you need to wax them to get them to slide or are you going to use some teflon or nylon sheet. I am very interested in your project and would love some pictures or a CAD file would be cool.

Best regards,

Marc

[balsaman]

thrmaln,

It's great to have new blood in the thread! Welcome. You would benefit greatly by reading the entire thread. There is great info for any DIY cncer here. Take a day or two to look it all over. Thanks for the links regarding slides etc. too.

Senna,

Another thing that really helped me with alignment was to drill all mounting holes slighly oversized. I bolted stuff together loosely, align, and then tighten. If your carefull, just 1/64 th or 1/32 oversize drill is all you need to make it fit great. Remember, we are talking MDF here. It is very tough to make your parts acurate within 1/32. This makes it tough to have an acurate part to measure from. I found that errors on my machine were compounding as I biult. Many small errors make for some larger ones. I was using a digital caliper acurate to within .0005" but cutting and drilling the parts with hand tools! That drill wanders in MDF, even with a center punch to start the job. Also, you can clamp the parts together once aligned, then drill through both parts at the same time with a small bit. Redrill to the correct sizes after. I was running 4 drills at the same time while building! One for 14/20 tap size (#7), one with 1/4" clearance hole drill bit, one for pilot holes, one with a countersink for flat head screws. Also, I used a drill for all my tapping in MDF. It taps easily with a reversing drill.

Sorry for the long post.

Eric

[crankorgan]

balsaman,
I am giving up on the Scrappy design. The MDF has too many problems when you use it on a larger machines. Unlike Plywood it seems to flex more! Even the 24 volt supply I ordered for Scrappy was out of stock. I hurt my back building it. I punched a hole in the ceiling flipping a part over. I never had a project go so bad. I am going to stick with designs I can move with one hand.

Cranky

[balsaman]

Set is aside for a bit cranky. I think it has potential! Maybe the base needs to be a box to make it more rigid. Don't make any rash decisions.

I think many people want a larger machine. The idea is good. Set it aside for a few days and things will look better.

Eric

[balsaman]

More mounts. Here is a pic of my machine doing more motor mounts. Speed 280 this time. The pic is to keep all those whose CNC is underway motivated. They really do work great!

Eric

[crankorgan]

balsaman,
Your rails help to stiffen your base. If I put the machine on a level table it will help. But I don't have a table that big and I don't expect others to have a table either. MDF flexes more than even I expected. I should have went with my bed frame design!

Cranky

[balsaman]

cranky,

Scrappy could be made to go. I understand your design goal is to keep it a simple design. I think your right it would become more complicated to add angle iron to the base. I think some people are willing to do more for a bigger cnc. When I tell them about mine, they say "only 12"x24"? why dont you go 4'x8'? Everyone wants to go big. I guess most don't understand the limits of the steppers etc.

I still say set it aside before you scrap it. Something might come to you. I bet the people watching your web site were excited about it? A working, simple and larger cnc would be popular. You are close. It will come to you in a dream!

Eric

[senna12625]

Balsaman,

Thanks for the suggestions on aligning the machine... I'll file it away for machine #2... as my present project is Cranky's small CNC Mill... the BRUTE... my investigation entry into this 'sport' of CAM'ing. The BRUTE will be used primarily to machine designs into the upper surface of my turned lidded bowls... but I'll also use it to cut parts for my Zoegling Primary Glider. I'm doing the Northrup modification that flew off the coastal cliffs at Palos Verdes, California back in 1930. That's assuming I even start building this plane before I jump on to machine #2. :D

Senna

[crankorgan]

balsaman,
I wanted to be able to build Scrappy even larger. I lost lots of sleep over this one. Not every idea results in a good design. It seems people want a large machine. I hope someone figures it all out.

Cranky

[senna12625]

Balsaman,

Apparently you don't receive e-mail through this group... so I'll just post the cleaned up photo of your machine here...

[balsaman]

Clutter? What clutter? Thats nothing! You should see my shop when it's a mess!

Thanks for the photo. It does look better.

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Ok thats :cool: senna12625 How did ya do that effect. Easy? Using MGI Photo Suite and not switching.

Got more Lexan. & A bonus Sheet for a Tombstone Windshield;)
Ok Off topic tip. Worked many a time!
Small shops, Metal, Plastics, Fiberglass,Etc.
Is to get in the door 5>10 min before Closing.
If you're the last person in the way of closing.
They treat you way better.
Case in point today at 5 to 5 I'm standing there holding a hunk of Lexan asking the Guy to cut it.
He looks and says shure but take it all and I'll charge for half.Great :D Then on the way out I spy the other piece 14x14x1/8 He don't want to do anymore paper work so he waves me out:cool:

[uscra112]

Cranky: Cut some strips of MDF about 3" wide and glue them on edge under the base as stiffeners. A rectangle about 15% in from each edge will work wonders! Maybe one more crossways under the spindle location. Make sure the edge you glue is straight or you'll pull the baseplate out of true. I had the guys at Home Despot cut some long strips off one of my sheets before I brought it home, just so I'd have straight strips to build in way-straightness with. Their panel saw will make a very straight edge, by our standards.

Mark: Not wooden screws - I drew the line there. I have SEEN tools with wooden screws. Even they had wrought-iron nuts, so I figure I'm only pushing the envelope a little. I'm using ordinary threaded rod, like John's designs do. We ain't working to "tenths" here. Ways are just 1x2 (actually .75 x 1.5) oak scantlings you can get at Lowes or Home Despot. Rectangular. Wearplates also oak. Have been working linseed oil into them. They slide pretty well, although I'm a little concerned about the static-to-dynamic ratio. If that proves a problem I've got some scraps of Turcite around somewhere. If THAT won't work then it'll be something else. I spent 15 years in the machine-tool rebuild business studying every known form of machine tool from 1900 to 1970. I've got a head-full of things people tried at one time or another. No way to do pictures right now. I'll have to get Santa to give me a digital camera at Xmas.

Balsaman: You've rediscovered what we called "stack-up" in the business. In theory all the errors should cancel out if they're truly random, but they never are. Nobody knows why, except to cite Murphy's Law. Which, by the way, is not best stated, "if anything can go wrong, it will", but rather "Murphy's piece ALWAYS falls butter-side down". Gains serious significance that way, if you studied any statistics.

[crankorgan]

uscra112,
Steve Manzer is using square steel hollow tubing under his pipe dream. Four pieces around the edge and an X in
the center. Maybe a DOOR is the answer. They used to be great for making a work bench. Now they are hollow. I need a break! I got lots of hours in on Scrappy. I am burned out! and snowed in here!


Cranky

[uscra112]

A DOOR! One of those solid wood fire-doors they use in industrial buildings, that has the Formica sheet on both sides! I've got a couple I've scavenged from the company's remodeling projects! They're stiff as all H___ and you can cut 'em with a Skilsaw if you have a carbide-tooth blade.

[PanzyPoof]

Save Scrappy, What about some angle Alum . Ruff it up good and Epoxy & screw it to the Edge (Bumper guard style) If you can Alum Weild do a picture frame. Or Run a couple across bottom.
A old bed frame will yeild some nice steel angle.
Go search the Shed:D And grab that Dolly Jack while you're out there:confused:

[uscra112]

Do we need a new "Save the Scrappy" thread?

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by uscra112
Do we need a new "Save the Scrappy" thread?

Hi,
What killed Scrappy is killing lots of things! Doors are no longer solid. Work benches are garbage. PLYwood is laughable
these day. I lost all the hobby stores near me. What should take days to design becomes months because I have to come up with workarounds for all the parts. We don't need a save the Scrappy thread. Sorry I brought up my problem. I was hoping since I helped others someone would help me!


Cranky

[uscra112]

Hey, man, now I know why you're called cranky. I'll help. You want to stiffen up the baseplate, right? Talk to me.

[balsaman]

Cranky,

I have seen some good suggestions put forward. We are trying to help! We want to see scrappy live!

Eric

[crankorgan]

Balsaman,
Scrappy is Dead! Adding a bunch of braces to fix a material problem is not simple! Scrappy was all about cheap and simple. Anything else is not what I was shooting for. I have four designs already! A larger machine will have to be done by someone else. Maybe someone in this group will come up with a set of plans for a large cheap easy to build router. I need a break! So I am going to take one!

Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

Build a Plane:rolleyes:
You're in the right area. Just is has to be CNC done.

Could some one send me a small file of a ready to run. Object?... want to check one out/tester.
7motel@interlog.com

[balsaman]

Cranky,

Fair enough.

Panzypoof,

here is a rectangle:

G00 Z0.000000
G00 X0.000000 Y0.000000
G01 Z-1.000000
G01 X0.000000 Y1.763265 Z-1.000000
G01 X5.570792 Y1.763265 Z-1.000000
G01 X5.570792 Y0.000000 Z-1.000000
G01 X0.000000 Y0.000000 Z-1.000000
G00 Z0.000000
G00 X0 Y0 Z0

Eric

[uscra112]

Balsaman - I don't see a feedrate code in that clump. When or where to you set that?

[Tree_Magnet]

ok hows

G00 X0.000000 Y0.000000 F3

now is that 3 inch/sec or
3ft/sec or 3mm/sec

guess it depends on your setup

[senna12625]

Just finished up the shower mud pre-pan and while I had the tablesaw setup... I decided to cut an old piece of 1/2" cabinet grade ply I had lying around and mock up my #2 machine. So many of the dimensions are directly related to the components utilized. Thought I'd do it in wood first... to work out all the bugs.

[senna12625]

Here's the machine drawing the mock-up is based on...

[balsaman]

I set it right at the beginning.



F12
G00 Z0.000000
G00 X0.000000 Y0.000000
G01 Z-1.000000
G01 X0.000000 Y1.763265 Z-1.000000
G01 X5.570792 Y1.763265 Z-1.000000
G01 X5.570792 Y0.000000 Z-1.000000
G01 X0.000000 Y0.000000 Z-1.000000
G00 Z0.000000
G00 X0 Y0 Z0

It can also be done like treemagnet did it.

Eric

[balsaman]

Looking good senna.

Eric

[senna12625]

And... one more of the mock-up...

[balsaman]

F3 will be 3 inches per minute, or mm per minute, depending on your setup.

Eric

[crankorgan]

senna12625,
Move the mount for the router up towards the center line of the moving bed. The long length of the mounting bracket will act as a lever back against the linear bearing. This is ok with a Dremel but not with a router! I learned this the hard way.

Cranky John

[balsaman]

Cranky is correct, although mine is mounted at the very bottom. That is why I used aluminum for the z axis mount. It turned out rigid enough. I think with MDF it would flex more.

Eric

[balsaman]

A variety! Speed 280 and up! Oh, the stuff you can do!
http://www.e-zflight.com/mount280s.jpg
http://www.e-zflight.com/mount280r.jpg
http://www.e-zflight.com/mount400s.jpg
http://www.e-zflight.com/mount400r.jpg
http://www.e-zflight.com/mount480.jpg
http://www.e-zflight.com/mount600.jpg

Eric

[crankorgan]

Hey Gang,
The cheapest way to run a homemade CNC machine is
to use an old computer supply. You can get 5volts for the logic chips and 12 volts for the motors. Here is the trick! You need to load the 5volt line. (Red) If you don't load the 5 volt line the power supply might not come on. If it does your 12 v line will be about 10 volts. Add a 5 ohm to 8 ohm 10 watt resistor between one red lead (5 volts) and one black lead. (Ground) This will cause the five volt section to operate correctly. Now the 12 volt line will be at 11.5 volts or higher. For more voltage see link.


http://www.qsl.net/aa3sj/Pages/PC-Supply.html


Cranky

[senna12625]

Cranky,

On some of the ATX computer power supplies... the muffin fan will not come on without an interrogation and sensed load on +5V. Maybe the resistor trick will solve that annoyance.

Thanks for the tips...

Senna

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by senna12625
Cranky,

On some of the ATX computer power supplies... the muffin fan will not come on without an interrogation and sensed load on +5V. Maybe the resistor trick will solve that annoyance.

Thanks for the tips...

Senna

Senna,
Ok, Ok, I should have said on a very old supply. Here is the trick for ATX supplies. You load the 5 volt line and you add a jumper on the long white connector. Pins 14 to 15. See Pic.



Cranky

[rdablo]

...my brand new 200W AT power supply was dropping out during charge. I was using it as a PS for my new Triton charger and it kept on triggering a wrong input voltage error at the beginning of a cycle. I thought it was a faulty PS. Now I can just load it with a little 5V fan to cool batteries and I'll be set. Thanks alot!

[balsaman]

Cranky,

Yes, I did follow your tip on my powersupply. I used a 5 ohm 5 watt resistor to get the 12 volt up to 12 volts! It's working great although the fan is noisy in the cold garage. I need to remove it and oil it up.

I took apart those electric typewriters. Lots of steppers! Most are bipolar. One is 8 wire but 12 volts. I also got 3 big powersupplies out of them which happen to have 5 volts, 12 volts and 36 volts. I was thinking I could use the 36 volts on Camtronics chopper board but no it's only good for 18 volts. Maybe there is a trim pot on it somewhere...will have to look.

Here are the steppers. I got these times 3.

Eric

[crankorgan]

balsaman,
Just use a computer supply until you make a 16 volt source. You should be able to get 200rpms or more using a PC supply.

Cranky

[crankorgan]

Rebuild fan,
To Rebuild the fan. 1.Remove four screws. 2. Peel tinfoil label off motor and save. 3 Remove rubber cup. 4. Hold a magnet next to hole has you pry the clip. 5 slide blade off post.
6 Clean and re-oil post and bushing in fan. 6 Put back together and pray! ONLY use auto motor oil! Do not use 3 in one. 3 in one
will varnish and fail in a few weeks.


Cranky

[balsaman]

Cranky,

I am just thinking of the future now as I am quite happy with the cnc as is.

Actually I was thinking of building a robotic arm with 4 axis' with 5 1/4" floppy steppers. I am not sure if they are unipolar or not. Will have to take one apart. I was thinking use my cnc to cut out lexan parts and bolt them together with small machine screws. I guess the thing would be pretty useless except to look at. I would need a 4 axis driver board. Crank you know anyone who sells a board?:D Piker looks like it would fit the bill. I would have more time to build it myself for this project. I wanted a ready made board for the cnc so I could concentrate on the cnc itself. I will spend some hours drawing it up and let you guys see. Would be a cool conversation piece! I work on robots all the time at work and they still are a marvel to watch as they go about thier business. They never tire, and I never tire to watch them. Like a ballet.

Eric

[crankorgan]

balsaman,
You could always mill your own circuit board! Yet another spinoff hobby! A friend of mine does that :)

Cranky

[senna12625]

Cranky,

It wasn't my intention to try to invalidate the information you so generously supply. I appreciate all you have contributed and continue to provide. The thing about the ATX supply was just something I recall reading somewhere. I'm NOT knowledgeable about electronics... but I do have a decent memory and I thought I'd point out the deal with the muffin fan on the ATX supply.

Once again you have covered the bases with the jumper tip. You are truly a resource!!!

So... to resurrect the Scrappy you are casting about for a cheap, rigid, lightweight material for the base...?

Senna

[crankorgan]

senna12625,
I keep forgetting how old my computer is! I keep thinking ATX is new when it is old. AT and XT supplies are very old. Lots of people have been faked out by them. Your comment
reminded me that I did go down the ATX road and I found the FIX!
Some AT supplies have more current on the 12 volt line. A 12 volt
4 amp supply will give you more amps because you are running the 5 volt line at less amps. They both come off the same transformer inside.
Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

Got TurboCAD but haven't paid the registration :rolleyes: Yet!
I'm thinking the Workshop needs a (TurboCad for Modelers) thread.
Keeping it to our machines. xyz
Printing out the Read me! hope it clues me in some.

[crankorgan]

PanzyPoof,
TurboCNC or TurboCAD? You can find TurboCAD in the store from time to time. The version I use cost $30 US. Came with
a video tutor on the CD. Very boring but neatly done. It also came with Corel Trace. Trace turns simple BMPs to DXF. The trick is to draw near X0 and Y0. Turn on the grid and snap some lines.

Do a box to start....save it as a DXF and convert it to GCode.



Cranky

[crankorgan]

Hi Gang,
You can also cut vinyl with a CNC machine. You mount a tiny swivel knife in the machine. One of my goals was to cut out blimp parts. I was wondering if anyone ever made an infatable RC plane?

Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

TurboCNC sorry.
Well a video would be a start!
I'll start a thread. This one's for building!

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by PanzyPoof
TurboCNC sorry.
Well a video would be a start!
I'll start a thread. This one's for building!


PanzyProof,
So we are talking TurboCNC? If so ask a question. I am sure Balsaman or I can help. I might be able to Eail you a config file. But try setting it up first.


Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

Ya I moved over to a new thread.
Thanks I'm shure a few good lessions and I'll be putting along. Then I can start the Spelling course:D
Rebuilding that Ball bearring end block for Z today. Also.
Polycarbonate (Lexan) is nice to work with.

[balsaman]

Cranky there are r/c blimps. Most are helium filled and made from that shiney chrome plastic like the Get Well Soon balloons you see at the Hospital. They are kind of ugly IMHO.:D All wrinkled up at the seams because the material can't make the compound curve.

Eric

[crankorgan]

Balsaman,
I know about blimps. Unless they are large with lots of power you can't fly them outside. I wanted to know if anybody came out with an inflatable RC plane? Thought it would be fun to have a slow flying plane for kids. Vinyl could be cut on CNC machine. Wings and body would be separate parts that velcro together.

Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

Blimps:confused: Must be a thread on Ezone.
The RC Gondola would be the Fun part.
Zoom pan cam. Say live network feed The SuperDome Blimp cam. Some one must be doing it. You're add here$$ Hmmm?

Anyway here is the progress. Tweeking about done.
SOOON!! :D

[Zoltar]

Good idea,

Inflating a plane with helium.....would be a whole new concept.

Dunlop has tried an inflatable plane (with air) before.
So it can be done!

Keep up the good work guys!

Chris

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by Zoltar
Good idea,

Inflating a plane with helium.....would be a whole new concept.

Dunlop has tried an inflatable plane (with air) before.
So it can be done!

Keep up the good work guys!

Chris

Chris,
I think the plane would fly without the helium. The Vinyl could be cut with your CNC machine using a swivel knife. I said BLIMP, only you saw I had moved on to an inflatable RC plane.
A PLANE that would fly slow and bounce off things. A large beachball floats nicely. A plane can be built with less material. Perfect for young kids or small neighborhoods. Years ago I saw
a one piece inflatable BiPlane. Making the plane in three parts
will make building and leaks less of a problem.


John

[Zoltar]

John,

I know, just did combine two things.....

I do mean an aeroplane not a blimp.

But the idea by filling it - an inflateble aeroplane- up with helium, it would even be lighter.

Or hang helium filled blimp (or a bag) above a RC modelplane....

Nice for those starting in RC modelflying :)

http://hotairship.com/news/1999_h2.html

BTW Dunlop(as I believe) did devellop a real full size airplane inflated with air wich actually flew.....

Greetings

Chris

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by Zoltar
I know, just did combine two things.....
Chris

Chris,
The helium would only help with a two ounce lift. The cost
of helium here is high. Just plain air-vinyl-electric motor! I need a project like this in a few months.

John

[Zoltar]

John,

I know,

Was just kidding ;)

But maybe even vinyl would be to heavy ......

Think Mylar, kite stuff something similar

You should start a thread on that subject!

Its a good idea.

Chris

[crankorgan]

Chris,
Since vinyl can be cut with a CNC machine. I would start there, if only to get the patterns right. A large vinyl beachball is very light. I will have to do some testing.

John

[crankorgan]

Hi Gang,
Here is a lightweight spindle drive I made out of nothing with just hand tools. The drive shaft has a pulley groove filed into it. The pulley on the motor was turned using the motor to turn the pulley. Spacers are from hardware store. The motor can run 15,000rpms at 12 volts. My goal was to spin the motor at 5.000 and let the pulleys step up the speed. The spindle worked
great. Two setbacks: 1.When the assembly was bolted to the CNC machine, it made as much noise as the Dremel. 2. I could not find a way to make something that would hold the bit in using just hand tools.

John

[PanzyPoof]

How can you cut a pattern that's huge laid out compared to the machines we got Hmmmm??

[crankorgan]

Hi Gang,
Looks like lots of people built real airplanes that were inflatable.


http://nasaexplores.com/lessons/02-013/9-12_index.html

Even NASA.....Hmmmm.


Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

OffTOPIC; I would like to build a WindMill Project. What about one of these to run the Entire
CNC setup Eh??? http://www.picoturbine.com/projectlist.htm

[balsaman]

Hey guys I cut these two "home" limit switch brackets from 1/8" aluminum plate with my CNC today. I cut the slots for adjustibility, and then around the outside. Noisy but worked great! Very nice finish. Also slow. I was cutting at 3 inches a minute. I was cutting with a 1/8" carbide end mill.

I need to bend them to an "L" shape now and mount the limit switch to them. They are almost too nice to bend!

Eric

[balsaman]

Cranky,

I was at your web page and saw Phonenix(if thats how it's spelled) Looks good. Tell us about it!

Eric

[crankorgan]

Balsaman,
I am Dyslexic....looks like I spelt it wrong, let me check.


Cranky

[crankorgan]

Hi Gang,
The Phoenix is a gantry style CNC machine designed to cut balsa 9" X 24". It can be built for around $100 US minus motors-controller-software. Once again I am teaming up gas pipe, roller skate bearings and aluminum window channel. What makes this Gantry different is the bed is added last. This allows easy building and adjustment of parts.

Cranky

[balsaman]

Cranky,

Sorry! I thought it was some sort of play on the word! Like some of your other designs.

Crank it up Cranky!

Eric

[balsaman]

Well, I installed the 3 home switches today. They are working fine! I used the 3 inputs for the overtravel switches that were provided on the FET3 controller card. I am not using overtravel switches. My home position is 0, 0, 3. This gives me room to change the tool and mount the material on the table. I will build a little 3" stand to place under the router to set the tool depth when changing it. Just put the stand in, set the tool bit on the stand, tighten the collet, remove the stand, and it should be 3" above the table. I do my cutting at z=0.

Eric

[balsaman]

Cranky,

Stepper guru,

I put a 24 volt supply on my CNC today. I got some 10 ohm resistors and wired it all up. Wow, fast! 35+ inches a minute. Now my problem is the resistors are getting too hot! The resistance goes up with time. I could only find 25 w resistors. I need aprox 36 watts. I put a huge heatsink and fan on them. Now I only used 3 resistors, tying the two coils together on one resistor. I can easily get 3 more 25 watt resistors and put one on each coil, but would it help? I don't think the coils are ever on at the same time correct? so two resistors would mean that each one is off half the time which would mean half the heat. Am I correct?

Eric

[crankorgan]

balsaman,
There are FOUR coils in a UniPolar motor. Two are on at any given time. (two phase) Using two resistors per motor is always better. Using one resistor per motor is from the old days where UniPolar motors were 5 wire. Even old floppy motors went to six wire. The reason for the extra wire is it lets you use a current control or chopper circuit.

Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

I thought You didn't like a Gantry Machine?

I'm moving the lower drive for X up closer to the
Trolly.
Oh nice Logo Cranky!

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by PanzyPoof
I thought You didn't like a Gantry Machine?

I'm moving the lower drive for X up closer to the
Trolly.
Oh nice Logo Cranky!

PanzyPoof,
I fixed what I did not like. Phoenix is built like the 7th Sojourn until you drop the bed in! The centering blocks make adjusting the two gas pipe rails a snap! Phoenix has more cutting area for it's size than my other designs. While working on Scrappy I came up with the solutions to make a gantry style easier to make and calibrate. I also used a longer trolley to make it solid. The logo is almost done!

Cranky

[William A]

Came across an old 'tractor paper' style dot matrix printer, the big wide kind.

Anything in it I could extract for you guys before it gets tossed ?

[spreslar]

Hey Cranky

I just mailed you the payment for a set of plans for the Pipe Dream… I can’t wait to get started on it.

Steven

[PanzyPoof]

William A
Ya the Slide is a good score. Treemagnet used 2 for his Foam cutter.
But I'm not interested. Sorry!
Lots of nice little screws for the screw Jar I bet.
Someone looking to build a Foam Cutter may need it.

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by spreslar
Hey Cranky

I just mailed you the payment for a set of plans for the Pipe Dream… I can’t wait to get started on it.

Steven

Hi,
Ohhh! There is nothing like starting a new adventure!

Cranky

[balsaman]

Spreslar,

Keep us up to date on the progress!

William A,

There will be some steppers in there. Open it up and have a peek. The steppers can be sold on ebay if they are the right kind, or....make a cnc yourself.

Eric

[senna12625]

Hey Steven,

Glad you made it to this thread! Why don't you tell us about your new foam cutter. Also... some detailed photos are always welcome!

I think you'll enjoy the information exchange here... it's a very knowledgeable group! Have fun with your new PIPE DREAM project!

Senna

[crankorgan]

Hi Gang,
Here is a picture of Phoenix before the removable baseboard gets painted.

Cranky

[balsaman]

Cranky,

That looks great. Can it made made wider easily? It looks easy to setup. The adjustable blocks are a great idea.

Cranky you have the record for the most time spent on a avitar! Nice detail!

Eric

[spreslar]

Cranky

Hey how long until you are ready to start selling plans for that little monster? By the way what are you using to make your avatar¡K ƒº

Steven

[spreslar]

Hey I am also from Oregon... I don’t live there now, but I was born and raised on Klamath Falls. The CNC foam cutter is almost ready. Just built the work bench for it. I made it 4 fee by 8 feet with a raised platform that is 40 by 60 cutting area. I made the work surface adjustable to 40’ X 40’. One thing that is cool with this cutter is the wire temp is computer controlled. I will post some photos once I have it mounted and ready to cut.

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by balsaman
Cranky,

That looks great. Can it made made wider easily? It looks easy to setup. The adjustable blocks are a great idea.

Cranky you have the record for the most time spent on a avitar! Nice detail!

Eric

balsaman,
The Phoenix is designed to cut balsa! I don't want to think about larger machines! The animation was done in Windows Paint as 12 BMP frames. They were imported into Paint Shop. You can almost see it cutting!

Cranky

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by spreslar
Cranky

Hey how long until you are ready to start selling plans for that little monster? By the way what are you using to make your avatar¡K ƒº

Steven

Sometime in the new year.

[senna12625]

Steven,

I'm just off Hwy 97 about 30 miles north of Bend. Funny thing is that I just relocated up here from Long Beach and I used to fly slope all over SoCal. I have an Aunt & Uncle that live in Homeland and I've followed your posts about the slope sites around that area. Never investigated any of those hills while I was visiting. Now I wish I would have! I've seen some outstanding pics of Cardiac Hill!

So with heat control you must be using the French MM2001 board? I see you occasionally at the Yahoo CNC Foam Cutters Group. You mentioned you bought a cutter. Did you purchase one of Tal Barnea's cutters?

CNC is a whole 'nother hobby you'll have to find time for. I'm back to building my home... so my hobbies will suffer for awhile.

Looking forward to seeing your photos! It keeps the juices flowing!

Senna