Looking for CNC Mill Part I

[Stelio]

Stelio,
... This allows drill rod and other types of steel rod to be used instead of gas pipe. The four bolt centering blocks were a big leap forward.

John

John,

As I am educating myself on drill rods there seems to be three hardness types, air/water/oil with air being the most expensive and oil being the least.

Is the oil hardened rod sufficient for the CNC machine?

==================
Longhair and Dickeybird,

Thanks for the suggestion for Enco (http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHM), they seem to be the least expensive among two or three others that I found after searching Google for drill rod.

[crankorgan]

Stelio,
Regular drill rod can be cut with a hacksaw. Hardened drill rod will last longer depending on what kind of bearings you use. Roller Blade bearings work on any type of drill rod. If you decide to use bushings instead of rollerskate bearings then buy the hardened rod.


John

[S. Hackwelder]

Stelio,
Air /water/oil refer to the media the drill rod is quenched (cooled) in after it is heated to a temperature that is required to harden it. For example, "air harding drill rod" is heated to maybe 1700 deg F and then remove from the furnace and let to cool.” Oil harding drill rod" is heated to a similar temp. and put in oil to cool. When you buy the drill rod it is usually in the annealed state (soft enough to cut with a saw etc) it is then "heat treated" to some specification. Harding the rod is not likely necessary for your machine so getting the least expensive rod is probably OK. There is a lot more too it but, generally drill rod is harder than mild steel before it is hardened and it is ground. You probably know that but, that is why it is good to use for the guides.

[Stelio]

...
3. Order plans from Cranky crankorgan.com -almost DONE-
Build CNC as per plans since this is my first machine, there will be plenty of opportunities to modify on my second machine (if I need to)

...

Oops, caught myself breaking my own rule, I don't have the plans yet and I am looking at drill rods and linear bearings Igus (http://igus.bdol.com/cbx.asp)

Must stick to the prime directive...

[crankorgan]

Stelio,
I played with bushings and other methods. Very unforgiving if you have a slight alignment problem. I can see why people bail from this hobby. Lots of seemingly good ideas dead end in no time.

John

[Rodrigo C.]

Hello everyone, I have been working up on my machine. I bought some other material I needed and started assembling some parts. I'm at the point that I need the guys from university to machine some parts for me, and hopefully they will do it for me next week.

I also have almost finished drawing the machine on Inventor.

I have a question about the threaded rod.

I have checked for Trapezoidal or ACME rods, but they are really expensive because I can't find them ready, so people are charging me about U$S 100,00 to machine just the X axis one. So I will be trying to use the regular threaded rod. which is about U$S 5,00 for a 3m bar.

I thought it would be a piece of cake to start assembling the parts of the machine, but it's a pain in the ass, when you have to consider alignment, so I'm working slow and patiently not to make any mistakes, but in all I think the work is going pretty well.

By the end of the week I'll try to post some pictures, and for now a few screeshots of the Drawing.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/Erondiel/CNC/CNC3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/Erondiel/CNC/CNC1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v400/Erondiel/CNC/CNC2.jpg

[OzDragonFlyer]

Nice looking machine.. It would work well for cuts in balsa and glass but would flex way too much for anything more serious.

A better method is to use supported rods with open linear bearings.

My first machine was similiar to yours and I could easily flex the 2 x 2ft sections of 16mm hardened steel shafting by pushing on the business end of the router. Even thicker shafts will still flex a few thou over an unsupported length of 2ft.

The small extra cost of supporting the rails and using open bearings more than makes up for the headaches you will have later on when wanting to mill from metal or need to do 5mm deep cuts in ply or plastic :)

By the way, pics of my latest machine areHere (http://cnczone.com/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/500/ppuser/1399)

I've screwed a small peice of sacrificial MDF to the tabletop for cutting out ribs/acrylic/metal sheet or anything that has to be cut all the way through.

[Rodrigo C.]

Hi Oz,

The X Shaft will have 2 suports on it's lenght, I just forgot to draw them, and the shaft is 1" thick. So I think I wont have problems of flexing on the X axis.

Maybe I can have some flexing on the Y axis...We'll see when it's ready :)

[crankorgan]

Rod,
You kept the Y short enough so I don't think you will have a problem. You may have to increase the distance beween the bearings on each side of the X axis. You are under the 2 to 1 ratio. With the leadscew down the center you can get skewing during heavy cuts. The roller blade bearings don't bind like other bearings so you might be still be ok!

John

[planeflier]

Well count me into the 1% that completes a cnc router. Just cut my first foamy airplane with my cnc router. Pretty cool watching the machine run and make parts. Controller is Hobbycnc 3 axis controller cutting area is 26 x 38 x 5. I will post pictures tomorrow stayed up to late making parts!!! :D :D

This was a fun project and already thinking on ways to make improvements.

[OzDragonFlyer]

I agree with CrankOrgan. driving a wide gantry with a single mid mounted screw needs some pretty tight bearings on each side of the y-axis otheriwse it will skew when force is applied on either side.

Most of the large commercial routers use a rack and pinion setup on both sides to overcome the skewing problem, even when the gantry looks to be built from ex US Army tank plating :)

The only decent single screw designs I've seen are the moving table types, where the actual part fixture moves on the yaxis and the spindle moves on the x-axis.

Keep in mind, every little bit of slop ends up right at the tip of your cutting tool!

[furyflyer2]

Free plans for a CNC router here- http://cnczone.com/modules.php?name=Links&file=viewlinkinfo&lid=248

Here is a pic-

[Jegern]

Free plans for a CNC router here- stupid link

What exactly is your definition of "free"? I have to register to be able to see that plan, meaning that I give you information, meaning paying you. More registered users at your site means more banners and ands meaning more money for you. Almost all of the "info" you have posted to this forum consist of shameless plugs for your own site. I'm a freshman myself in this forum, so I won't shout, but I bet people are getting tired of you.

[furyflyer2]

Free is free, you belong to this site right? Members on this site means money for the owner RIGHT? So what, bandwidth is free? If you don't like the offer GET OVER YOURSELF and stay close minded and off the site. I'm sorry if the site has lots of information that real people my find valuable, people link to this site as well, it's all relevant information. It obvious you will stay a "freshman" in the hobby with a attitude like that.

How many sites do you know of that gives away 1,000's of dollors of FREE software for CNC such as Bobcad, Onecnc and other's? That site does and yes you have to join like this site to win. So do you want some chees with you're wine?

[Jegern]

Free is free, you belong to this site right?

Unlike your site, _all_ information on this site is free for everyone to read, registered user or not. Well, I guess we'll have to agree that we disagree and leave it at that.

[OzDragonFlyer]

I'm probably opening myself to a good flaming, but why do so many ppl bag cnczone?

I registered (which costed nothing) and have found lots of useful ideas and information on the cnczone forums. Not to mention the pics of various peoples creations which have no doubt been an inspiration to many.

Sure it has oodles of (not so annoying) advertising and the forums could do with a bit more moderation, but just look at any other website in which someone has invested their own time and often money to set up. Some commercial websites aren't nearly as informative as cnczone.

So, I don't get it.. if a website contains useful and valid information which ends up saving -your- money and time, shouldn't they be encouraged?

By the way, I'm not pro-cnczone, I also belong to quite a few yahoo groups (in which the advertising is much more annoying!)

With the varied nature of cnc machining, all the information in the world is still never enough, especially with the fast pace of developing technologies.

Ok, off my soapbox for now ;)

[uscra112]

Fair comment, Oz.

Some of us are mighty irritated with this individual who continually, (and my I say rudely), derides E-Zone and the people who post on and support THIS thread. Click on his name and then do a search for ALL his posts and you'll see what I mean. Rather than contribute useful information based on his own experience, (has he even built a machine?), to this thread, all he has to offer is other web sites and a little while ago a list of plans-vendor sites, one of which I can say from personal experience is nothing more than an expensive ripoff.

Yes, I have looked at CNCZone myself, and I did find some useful info there, but I'm primarily a model aircraft builder. I'll stick with E-Zone for now.

[furyflyer2]

BTW, Yes I have built my own machine and with-out the help of forums and other people. I also have never derided E-zone.


Some of us are mighty irritated with this individual who continually, (and my I say rudely), derides E-Zone and the people who post on and support THIS thread

You don't know what rude is dude, once again I have never derided any person or this site in any of my posts.

[uscra112]

"Free is free, you belong to this site right? Members on this site means money for the owner RIGHT? So what, bandwidth is free? If you don't like the offer GET OVER YOURSELF and stay close minded and off the site. I'm sorry if the site has lots of information that real people my find valuable, people link to this site as well, it's all relevant information. It obvious you will stay a "freshman" in the hobby with a attitude like that."

I rest my case.

[oz9ny]

Free plans for a CNC router here- http://cnczone.com/modules.php?name=Links&file=viewlinkinfo&lid=248
Very nice looking machine and detailed plan!
/Niels

[oracle_9]

Wow, nice thread you guys created. Took me a week to read all those replies.
Nice resource for the hobbyist.

I looked at some of the machines on those links and they all look nice. But I found some have a tolerance accuracy of +/- 0.015" (0.04mm...almost half a mm!)

Are there ways to make this less....like +/- 0.005 or something close? Or which built-it-up plans show this accuracy?

Or this more like dependent on software and drivers?
Or combinations?

Anyway, any suggestion on a type of machine or system that is built up would be appreciated.

Btw, My father has a small machine shop so I can use the machines to build parts for the CNC machine, so thats not a problem. Though, he doesnt have a old spare machine to convert, so I guess building this CNC machine from scratch is the choice. But since this will be used only for hobby, like cutting ribs, webs, fuselage, formers...all from balsa and ply. PS...I like to make those scratch built r/c gliders or experiment with my own designs, but the accuracy is and issue and keep it low cost....speed of cutting is not an issue...

Thanks, I cant remember if this was mentioned before or not, so I post it here.

[Stelio]

I received my 7th Sojourn plans from John a couple of days ago and I am ready to go shopping!
Those HD gift cards I have been saving will come handy. :D

[uscra112]

oracle 9 - accuracy of a machine tool is part mechanical, part servo or stepper system resolution. In my business we do use software (and some software it is, too) to map the errors on our measuring machines (using a $75,000 laser interferometer) and compensate them real-time. We get accuracy in millionths of inches that way. Thing is, the computers have to be very powerful and fast, and the structural stability has to be perfect, so the CHEAP machines cost $100,000. The expensive ones run to a million.

So it's kinda like the old car parts-man joke - "speed costs, sonny, how fast do you wanta go?". Even fairly simple machine tools use mapping these days, but even they are $10,000 for starters. We're trying to do this for at most a few hunnert bucks.

Most of the structures Cranky and others are doing are quite capable of providing you with .005" accuracy. The designs are rigid enough, so if you keep the backlash out of the leadcrews and nuts, use fine resolution steppers, build your axes so they move nice and straight, (and especially nice and SQUARE to each other), you'll have a .005" machine with no need for mapping and compensation.

I've accumulated several engineering books on how to measure straight, flat, square and parallel, but although so far as I know they're all out of print, they're worth searching for if you want to build a good machine. Try a Google on "machine tool rebuilding" books, or scan eBay. My favorite is a fat coffee-table book by Wayne R. Moore, called "The Foundations of Mechanical Accuracy." Moore Special Tool Co. built some of the most accurate cast-iron machine tools ever made. Fifty years later they are still widely used and command good prices in the used machine markets. If you're really interested in making machine tools, and a copy of that book every shows up on eBay, buy it at any price!

[balsaman]

If you are cutting airplanes, why do you need .005 acuracy? It's just balsa and ply after all....You can't measure .005" on plywood with any acuracy. It's too soft.

Eric

[uscra112]

Well, better to have it and not need it that to need it and not have it.

On birch ply I can measure to .001" on smaller parts. It may be different tomorrow though, since the wood reacts to moisture so much.

Earlier this year I was working with a set of laser-cut parts for which I provided some of the CAD files. I worked hard to get the stringer and spar notches to come out just right, and by golly, they did. The stuff fits so well that you almost don't need glue. This requires close-tolerance motion control to get. If the notch were .010 oversize the fit would be loose. Even .005 undersize and they wouldn't fit together at all without crushing wood. The work was done on a commercially built laser machine, nice and tight and probably capable of +/- .001". Very accurate by our standards, but the results are awfully nice to have.

[oracle_9]

Well,
The only parts that need to all match up is the airfoil ribs. Especially if I build 100in to 120in basla/ply r/c sailplanes. like Eppler, NACA airfoils...etc. ...a 0.015 which is about half a millimeter is quite big.....I would prefer 0.005-0.0075.

But looking back at those links listed on the first page by you...uscra...of the:
http://www.machinetoolcamp.com/
That looks to be a nice one...and can be used industrial if someone is into it. It said the accuracy is between 0.005-0.015. So if built properly and good stepper, i guess it possible to get the 0.005. Btw, how was that?

Uhm....any plans for a laser CNC machine built-it-up? HEHE :D anyway, that would be like $$$
Concerning laser cut service...if u provide the file...how much do they typically charge?

[crankorgan]

When people start worrying about accuracy I tell them to make the part manually. Then make sure it works! Then put the calipers to the part. (try it!)
Many models have be cut and built using X-acto blades. I will bet those are + and - .01 or worse. Now that CNC is here people are getting a little crazy. A laser cut kit is that last word on accuracy but who is putting the model together? Laser cut parts in the wrong hands fall short of a craftsman with an X-acto blade.

[balsaman]

I was having kits laser cut from my plans. I drew the plans to exact sizes then had them cut out. The laser beam has a .011 wide "kerf" yet all the parts fit perfectly. It is extremely hard to get .005 acuracy with a home made router and even with a comercial router. .005 is very small. To get less backlash than that in the mechanicals if a feat. If I measure an aluminum part I cut on my router and am within .005 I am happy. Measure the thickness of 1/8" hard balsa. Is it within .005"? To answer that I just measured a sheet. Mine is .138", which is .013" over size, and I only measured one sheet. Now you are going to route a slot for it to fit into and you want the slot within .005?

I am not saying accuracy is not important, and closer is always better, but lets be realistic here. We are cutting wood after all.

Eric

[planeflier]

New to this cnc router area, I have completed my router and playing around with it and software.

What software are you guys using to generate G-codes and then for drivers for the steppers?

I have tried Mach 5, turbocnc, Desknc. They all seem to have some little quirks. Just wondered what everyone else is using?

[balsaman]

Tcnc version 4

[oracle_9]

I know it wont be perfectly accurate, but I can surely try.

Nonetheless, this would be a neat project to do and I will get one of those plans and see how it goes. Afterall, in the future, after I would have played with this, I can do improvements or go another further step.

Would MasterCAM/CAD be alright for starters?

[balsaman]

Yes.

But you need to build the machine first. Mastercam comes later...:)

Eric

[planeflier]

master cam is an expensive piece of software.

What is Tcnc verison 4? and where do you get it?

[balsaman]

www.dakeng.com $60.00

Eric

[SkyPyro]

I've been surfing for a while and just noticed what I think is a great deal! Is it - http://www.hobbycnc.com/cncpackages/80ozin31v/80ozin31v.htm ? I really like the fact that everything is packaged in a single buy, rather than having to pay shipping and play the waiting game multiple times. The price seems pretty cheap compared to what I've seen, also. Whaddya think?

Thanks,

Dan

[uscra112]

Careful - that kit requires you solder up the stepper controller PCB. Not easy, as some components may be heat sensitive. Troubleshooting that cold be a headache.

[OzDragonFlyer]

Also be aware that this board is an older type that uses very inefficient resistors to limit the current going to the motors (and they will get quite hot!)

Go for a chopper type stepper driver and you won't be too dissapointed.

For almost the same price you could buy a 3 axis, fully assembled xylotex board and pick up some more powerful motors off ebay. This is a reasonably good entry level setup that a lot of people are using to drive anything from foamcutters to minimills.

[jihlein]

The HobbyCNC boards are easy assemble, and come with good instructions. Dave Rigotti is also a big help if you need it. If you want to try your hand at building a PC board, these are good ones to start with.

I've built both versions, the older ballast resistor type and the new chopper drive. Either will work fine.

That said, I'm using the ballast resistor type drive on my CNC mill in the 1/2 step mode with 125 oz in 1 amp motors. I can fast slew at 24 inches per minute.

The chopper board I built for my Dad operating in 1/8 step mode has much much faster slew rates with the same mechanics, but since you can't cut that fast, I don't see a need to change my driver board for the newer one.

John Ihlein
Albuquerque, NM

[HobbyCNC]

Also be aware that this board is an older type that uses very inefficient resistors to limit the current going to the motors (and they will get quite hot!)

Go for a chopper type stepper driver and you won't be too dissapointed.

For almost the same price you could buy a 3 axis, fully assembled xylotex board and pick up some more powerful motors off ebay. This is a reasonably good entry level setup that a lot of people are using to drive anything from foamcutters to minimills.

We have discontinued the older UCN5804B driver board. We only offer the chopper type driver board now. Stayed tuned for more updates very soon on our product line. How about a 3 axis package with steppers, cables, etc for not much more than the Zylotex driver board alone???

Dave Rigotti

[OzDragonFlyer]

Sounds like a good introductory deal Dave. My first 4 axis driverboard was an own design with 5804's driving fets to run bigger motors (kind of the same as the commercial FET3 board). The resistors got warm enough to heat the room on cold nights :)

Second step was a A3977 board (like the xylotex) which did well for a while, but running at 30V was a bit limiting speedwise.

If you do a package to rival the speed & power of geckodrives (which are well worth the money) you'd be really cookin'!

[HobbyCNC]

Sounds like a good introductory deal Dave. My first 4 axis driverboard was an own design with 5804's driving fets to run bigger motors (kind of the same as the commercial FET3 board). The resistors got warm enough to heat the room on cold nights :)

Second step was a A3977 board (like the xylotex) which did well for a while, but running at 30V was a bit limiting speedwise.

If you do a package to rival the speed & power of geckodrives (which are well worth the money) you'd be really cookin'!

Only if somebody comes out with a 7A 80V chip for under $10! :-) I'd hardly classify this as "Hobby CNC"

Dave Rigotti
www.hobbycnc.com

[Stelio]

A bunch of materials today, and hopefully with some carefull assembly a CNC machine in a few weeks!

I had too much fun shopping at the plastics store (acetal and grey PVC, $7), and then at the surplus store (nuts and bolts at $1.50 per pound, $2.35), and then HD (MDF, gas pipe, threaded rod, angle aluminum, paint, $45), and then the thrift store (inline skates to "borrow" the bearings, $6), that I ran out of time to stop by the glass store for the aluminum channel before they closed. That will have to wait for next week.

Now off to cut some MDF...

[planeflier]

What software is everyone using to convert dxf's to g-code?

What software is everyone using to drive their machine?

I am new to this just trying to find the easiest and most relieable coversion.

Thanks

[DICKEYBIRD]

I use ACEconverter (free!) from http://www.yeagerautomation.com/price.htm for .dxf/G-code. This is 2D stuff only. I don't know nuthin 'bout no 3D yet!

[htuong95]

Can these cutter able to cutter out depron/fanfold for flat rc planes?

[planeflier]

Yes that is what I am using my for right now.

Works good, just trying to work on cutting order of parts on a sheet.

[htuong95]

Hey planeflier,

Do you have pictures of your cutter? I am looking for some ideas on designing a cutter able to cut a 24" x 36" sheet of depron/fff. Thinking of adding a vacuum system under the board to hold the depron in place.

Anyone out there built a similar cutter? Thanks in advance.

- Hong

[ger21]

Yes that is what I am using my for right now.

Works good, just trying to work on cutting order of parts on a sheet.

What are you creating your .dxf's in and what are you converting with?

[DICKEYBIRD]

Yes that is what I am using my for right now.

Works good, just trying to work on cutting order of parts on a sheet.
ACEconverter will automatically optimize the order of cutting for the shortest possible run time. If you want to specify which part gets cut 1st, just assign all the parts to a separate layer and tell ACE which ones to cut 1st. You double click on each layer and choose the priority you want it to have from the Layer Priorities box.

I used to do this on every new project until I started leaving little bridges on each part to hold them in place in the sheet. I was previously assigning lightening holes to a separate layer and cutting them 1st before cutting out the part. What a pain that was! :rolleyes: Now I just draw in a few .050" bridges on the perimeter of each part and let the chips fly!

[DICKEYBIRD]

Can these cutter able to cutter out depron/fanfold for flat rc planes?Here's a couple threads about some Depron CNC routing I did a while back. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=180905&highlight=Depron+router

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1418861/anchors_1418861/mpage_1/key_BareCat/anchor/tm.htm#1418861

[planeflier]

DickeyBird what software are you using to drive your stepper motors? I have been playing with Master 5 software and it is not consistant? I just downloaded turbo cnc and deskcam.

Ger,

I have been using Master 5 to do the dxf converting and controlling of the steppers. But it is not working 100% the way I want so still learning. I just downloaded a trial of Mach 2 but this software is not as easy to setup as Master 5.

htong,

I have included a picture (I hope) of my machine. My machine is setup to cut 30" x 46". I have cut 2 planes out and still learning as I cut each one.

[htuong95]

Dickeybird
Thanks for the links. Now that I know it will cut depron, I am now more motivated on building one for myself.

Planeflier
Where is the picture?

Thanks all,
Hong

[DICKEYBIRD]

planeflier, I use MAXNC's software that came with the kit I bought from them way back in 1998. Their motion kit was the only inexpensive setup available back then. The controller software is DOS based and fairly "clunky" but it is very stable and suits my simple needs. Someday, I would like to build a larger machine with more power, speed and more powerful software. Then, there's that 3D thing.... :rolleyes:

[planeflier]

I have never posted pictures I thought I had done it correctly any help?

[htuong95]

I have never posted pictures I thought I had done it correctly any help?

Email the pictures to me and I will post it here.

htuong95@msn.com

[htuong95]

Here is planeflier's CNC

http://home.comcast.net/~htuong95/cnc.jpg

[htuong95]

Here is another picture of planeflier's CNC. I am going to build one very similar to this one :)

http://home.comcast.net/~htuong95/cnc2.jpg

[Lutin]

hi guys

planeflier is this the CNC machine from HobbyCNC did you egt the 80oz-in 3 Axis CNC Packages that's on close out and htuong is that the one you will be doing.

thanks guys

[planeflier]

this is a modified verison of Hobby cnc machine. I am in the process of making a few other changes now that I have used the machine a few times.

This the larger package that Hobbycnc sold I believe it was 112 oz package. They do not offer anymore on their web site.

With the smaller package that hobbycnc has on close out I don't think I would make the machine any larger than Dave's plans.

[gkamysz]

http://www.scaled.com/services/cms_mill.html

http://www.scaled.com/services/tooling.html

Greg

[AirX]

Greg,

Now thats a nice 3D machine, bet one could mill just about anythign one wanted to... :)

Eric B.

[uscra112]

Yah. That's the kind of thing I used to work on. They ARE cool, no doubt about it.

[fig8]

Well I got my control system ported over to my new K2cnc.com 25x14 router bed. It is fantastic! Its so smooth with the rail system Right off the bat I noticed the servos push the axis's around much faster then my old mill bed.

I actually had to slow down my feed speed a touch. Before on the dovetail system I had resistance which was translating into slower feed rates.

So if anyone by chance is on the fence about the K2cnc beds, they are really worth the money.

[fig8]

Here is a picture.

[htuong95]

fig8,

Nice machine. You tried cutting foam with it?

[fig8]

No never had the chance. I mill wood , peg board and carbon fiber mostly.

[planeflier]

Here are some objects that I have cut with my cnc router.

[OzDragonFlyer]

this is my homebrew machine.. don't want to turn the thread into a pic session but.. Like Fig8's machine.. the best designs are the clean & simple ones!

[Loukas]

Hey Oz,

Nice job! What plan did you use on that? Or is that a compilation of different units? How thick is the metal?
I'm looking into building a CNC unit myself for balsa and minor woodworking but have no idea what I want exactly. I'm investigating everything as much as I can.
My brother-in-law works in a steel fabricating company and I can get some scrap aluminum pieces to build it out of. I just need to know what thickness.
I see a lot of you guys use the roller blade bearings. I guess I would need 24 of them. Does anyone have any reccommendations on sizes (maybe 8 X 22) and where to buy them?

Thanks for all the great comments and ideas, keep them coming.

Loukas

[OzDragonFlyer]

I didn't use any plans.. made it up as I went along according to the materials I could scrounge or make! This was the second one so I learned from the first one (which is now being used to commercially engrave stuff!) They are simple machines to make,anyone can do it with a bit of planning and thought.

The router framework is easily available 3"x1"x1/8" wall aluminium rectangle. Table is from regular angle iron, drilled and bolted together.

Bearings on all axis are 25mm open linear I found on ebay (brand new!) running on stainless hardened shafts. Hunt around for these.. they are dirt cheap, probably as cheap as a rollerblade bearing setup without all the hassle. Shaft supports are standard aluminium extrusion, cut into peices to minimise cost.

I made the bearing blocks with a mill and a lathe, that was the most time consuming bit, but if you ask a fabrication shop they can probably do the same thing over a few lunchtimes.

By the way, if you make one this big, plan on a dust extraction setup! They can and will make a huge mess :D

[planeflier]

Oz,

What size are your stepper motors. It looks like your z-axis has a belt reduction unit on it, do the rest of the axis have belt reduction. What is the ratio of the reduction? I am looking at doing this to mine also.

Thanks for the input.

Planeflier

[OzDragonFlyer]

200 oz/in nema23's with 2:1 reduction.. almost twice the power & twice the acceleration ability this way.

At first I didn't think this was going to be powerful enough, but there's no way I can stop it moving and have snapped 1/4" endmills on table fixtures without it stopping (an expensive way to test it.. not recommended) :)

Even with this reduction it can still rapid at 120 ipm using geckodrives at 70V.

Belt drive.. just do it!

[mrbaseballny]

Oz,

If you don't mind telling us, how much did you put into the new CNC mill?I've read the back posts and am beginning to have a case of information overload, especially with which version to construct. I've been looking to build one of these for around the last month and would like to get a start, can you help out us newbies looking to build a setup like yours with suggestions? THings to watch out for?, things to make sure are done?? etc. Links to any good plans to base designs off, or even a guide that explains the components involved?? Any help is greatly appreciated!!:)

Thanks,

Gino

[aolshove]

Okay, I purchased Cranky's 7th Sojourn plans and will be heading down to Home Depot tonight to get some MDF, taps, and paint. However, I thought that finding NEMA 23, 50-60 oz-in, 200 steps/rev, 5-6V, 6 wire steppers would be a breeze. Cranky's info page states that he prefers this configuration because A) They work well with his controller, and B) they're cheap.

I'd like to stay with the recommendation of the designer so I set out to find these steppers and can't seem to locate a suitable supplier. They either want $50 a piece or the steppers meet all of the criteria EXCEPT they're bipolar (like my sister.. hehe), or they're 3A per phase, or.. whatever. I've checked eBay which seems to be devoid of steppers with this spec, and all of the electronics suppliers on the net that carry surplus steppers but the specs don't match, or are unlisted. So, since I'm a stepper noob, I don't know how far off I can be on any of the specifications and am unable to settle for something that might work with Cranky's controller. Links to specific eBay auctions or suppolier web site item descriptions would be appreciated. Alternative specs would also be appreciated. Thanks!

[uscra112]

Just do an eBay search for "stepper motor 23" - they'll be there.

[aolshove]

Just do an eBay search for "stepper motor 23" - they'll be there.

This auction description doesn't mention current. Anybody know if these might work?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=12577&item=3839259289&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

[uscra112]

They come and go.

Set up a search in your "favorites" with the email notification feature enabled.

[crankorgan]

They are 6 volt 1.2 amp 80oz steppers six wire. You can also buy them at HobbyCNC. They were used by Panzyproof on his machine.

[aolshove]

If they're good enough for PanzyProof, they're good enough for me. Thanks!

I'm thinking it might be wise for me to save up the $145 for the 3 stepper + controller combo on HobbyCNC.

[Stelio]

If they're good enough for PanzyProof, they're good enough for me. Thanks!

I'm thinking it might be wise for me to save up the $145 for the 3 stepper + controller combo on HobbyCNC.

That's what I plan on doing, but before I buy them I want to prove to myself that I can finish the mill they will mount on. Last thing I want is another unfinished project and a few hundred $$$ worth of parts cluttering the area.

I am working on John's (Cranky) 7th Sojourn.

I have cut all the MDF, drilled, tapped it, and just yesterday finished painting it. Next comes bolting the parts together. :eek:

[G1K@home]

I have a cutting question.

I want to cut a piece of polycorbonate (or lexan, I forget which it is). I can get a semi decent edge around the 6" square I am cutting, and the 40 1/16" holes, but when I try to engrave something at 1/16" depth (stock is 1/8" thick), the cutter quickly builts up with melted plastic and ruins the piece. I have slowed the dremel all the way to its lowest setting... what else cxan I try. I am using a 4 flute 1/16" carbide end mill. Is there a better mill to use? Should I try to bump up the feed rates?


** edit* I just found this information http://www.plasticsmag.com/routing.asp?fIssue=Sep/Oct-04&aid=4075

Maybe I'll try a new cutter as suggested by this info. Has anyone used a "o" cutter?


TIA
Ryan

[OzDragonFlyer]

For acrylic sheet, I use a 2 flute upcut endmill (centre cutting).. Single flutes can be used but in my experience they can leave a rough edges near the plunge area.

Depending on your router/mill keep the cut depths to 50% or less of the tool diameter or you may get chatter marks on the edges.

For engraving, try a single flute v-tool, and use a light misting of fluid (I use methylated spirit in a spray bottle) whilst it's cutting to keep the tool and acrylic cool.

Do a few test cuts first and you'll soon work out the ideal spindle rpm and feedrate for the sheet you are attempting to cut just by the sound it will make. :)

Btw Dremels have quite a bit of runout in the bearings and also don't like to be loaded up (they are only 125W motors) so take it slowly and everything should be ok.

[aolshove]

I started my 7th this weekend! Got MDF, taps, and paint and cut the parts out, drilled them, and painted them. I decided to tap after paint in case paint gets in the holes. I think Stelio and I are at the exact same point. :D

[balsaman]

Forgive the shameless plug here but for those interested I have my home made machine for sale here: http://www.cnczone.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=97

Carry on...

Eric

[mrbaseballny]

Can anyone tell me if these stepper motors are the right type to use with the CNC router plans used in this thread? They are only $59 each. The link below will take you to a page that has way more info than I can make use of. Any help would be greatful

http://www.usdigital.com/products/ms23/?source=overture-us&OVRAW=stepper%20motor&OVKEY=stepper%20motor&OVMTC=standard

Thanks

[aolshove]

Can anyone tell me if these stepper motors are the right type to use with the CNC router plans used in this thread? They are only $59 each. The link below will take you to a page that has way more info than I can make use of. Any help would be greatful

http://www.usdigital.com/products/ms23/?source=overture-us&OVRAW=stepper%20motor&OVKEY=stepper%20motor&OVMTC=standard

Thanks

Fellow CNC Neophite :D, have you discovered HobbyCNC.com yet? They have the best prices on appropriate steppers that I've been able to find. Search this thread for HobbyCNC and you'll find that many folks are using the controller and steppers from this source.

[Tree_Magnet]

Balsaman y u selling your router

Tom

moving on to bigger and better things?

[balsaman]

I want to cut metal.

Eric

[Tim H.]

Once again, complete CNC newbie here. However, is there a website or thread that walks through from the setup to the first cutting with a CNC machine. I just purchased a CNCLinx machine and I'd like to find a source to kind of "walk me through" the process of set up, software and initial cutting.

Thanks!

Tim H.

[crankorgan]

Tim,
Did you buy a Milling machine-Router or foamcutter? CNCLinx makes foam cutting machines. If so you need to ask your question in a foam cutting forum.


John

[Tim H.]

Tim,
Did you buy a Milling machine-Router or foamcutter? CNCLinx makes foam cutting machines. If so you need to ask your question in a foam cutting forum.

John

Tal makes both. It's a 22" x 57" x 3", 3 axis CNC router.

Tim H.

[crankorgan]

Tim,
The first thing you need to do is to learn how to draw in CAD and save the tool path in a DXF format. That gets converted to GCode using the FREE ACE converter found over at TurboCNC. TurboCNC will run your motors using the GCODE. Did you buy a controller to control the motors?

John

[Tim H.]

John - Got CAD down pat, I know how to convert to GCODE, the machine will come ready to run.

My biggest thing is that I've never actually run a CNC machine. I've messed with the CNC simulators a bit to verify my GCODE and drawings, and it all worked out. I just want to start out right and not make any major mistakes when setting up the machine.

Tim H.

[crankorgan]

Tim,
Put a few pieces of cardboard box below your work piece. Run the GCode at 6" by putting F6 in lines of the GCode. The cardbard will prevent you from cutting the bed or snapping a tool. People who just buy a machine usually crash into the bed or the hold down clamps. Use the cardboard and double sticky tape before going further.

John

[Tiramisu]

Hello,

I have not used my router in awhile as I have been involved with other projects but I was wondering if anybody had tried to use one as a vinyl cutter? I wanted to make some intricate paint masks and was thinking I could just mount a swivel knife on the Z. Any insights or ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks

[crankorgan]

I was told you get a tiny tail everytime the knife turns. I suspect the real software corrects for this.

[OzDragonFlyer]

Mach2 (www.artofcnc.ca) has tangential knife control... hook a stepper up to your knife and it will turn it to follow the cutting path line.

Haven't tried it yet, but theoretically it should work well on a normal 3axis machine.

Swivel knives are bothersome to get working properly, but if you do, post your results on here!

[Gary Blaylock]

Hi everyone,

I have finally been able to do some more work on my router. Working for a living interferes with my playtime! After making a few cuts, I decided to enclose my router. Just too much dust for my small shop.

I installed a vaccum hose near the router but it doesn't seem to pick up much during machining (see pic). I'm using a large Sears shop vac with a 2 1/2 in. hose connected to a 1-1/2 in. hose at the router. For air intake into the cabinet I have slotted the back end and have about a 20 x 10 in opening with a filter. Does anyone have any suggestions on making a vaccum system work?

I also made an end mill holder for my router. I'm now able to chuck up 3/8 in. shank end mills to my 1/2 in. collet. I have been trying to machine some MDF into signs but I cant seem to get a good cut. Has anyone got any experence in cutting MDF?

In the pics two of my signs are cut from pink insulation foam. This stuff cuts like butter! The Hunting club sign is cut from a piece of oak which I had save from when the hurricane hit. It is still wet and green with a soft spot in the center where the "R" is cut. The two tail fins were cut from some fiberglass panels I found in a scrap yard (my first cuts).

Thanks for all the help from this group and I hope it keeps getting better.

Gary

[Gary Blaylock]

Gary

[Gary Blaylock]

Gary