Looking for CNC Mill Part I

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by migkillr
Here's my latest. Still have to mount the gibs before the bed is on the rail permanent and then have to cut the leadscrew to size. My floating nut is a little different, but works like a champ with no play. One more axis to go!!! Work really puts a cramp in my hobby.

Dean

Dean,
You can use a solid block of Delrin if you use a 1/4-20 threaded rod for the X and Y axis. The floating nut prevents binding with poorly aligned or built machines. When the axis is longer the 1/4-20 will flex a little hiding alignment problems. If you make the leadscrew thicker (less turns) and alignment becomes a problem again.
John

[migkillr]

I'll tell you what worked like a champ. I bought some nylon nuts and did some measuring and cutting on the PVC block to make the nut just fit inside without any side/side play (parallel to the leadscrew). It does have the ability to move parallel to the PVC block, much like the original floating nut, though. If your careful how you measure and cut, it won't be able to spin inside the pvc. Saves some time and some building. I'll let you know if I run into problems with it, but it looks pretty do-able so far.

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by migkillr
I'll tell you what worked like a champ. I bought some nylon nuts and did some measuring and cutting on the PVC block to make the nut just fit inside without any side/side play (parallel to the leadscrew). It does have the ability to move parallel to the PVC block, much like the original floating nut, though. If your careful how you measure and cut, it won't be able to spin inside the pvc. Saves some time and some building. I'll let you know if I run into problems with it, but it looks pretty do-able so far.

Mig,
Put a little oil on the leadscew. This will prevent the nylon from heating up and grabing the leadscrew. Nylon nuts? Auto Store?

John

[Slow Riser]

John (aka Crankorgan),
Thanks for all your help on this thread. Took some time for me to read it and there is a wealth of information and expertise.

As soon as I get my CNC foam cutter completed, I want to get into the CNC's on this site.

Cheers...Henry
--
New Canadian E-tailer
www.zebrahobby.ca

[balsaman]

Hi guys. I haven't posted in a while. I love my machine. I am currently working on my second machine. Like DICKEYBIRD says "Whole new hobby!"

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Hi balsaman:)
Say missed ya At Oakville Fun Fly! you forgot right?
Hmmm:confused: Thats Big!
Whats the Plan?

[balsaman]

I didn't forget! They were forcasting rain. I decided at the last minute to stay home. It turned out to be a nice day! :(

Eric

[balsaman]

There are two guys here who want me to build them a machine. One is 4'x4' and the other is a mill cnc conversion. This is my practice machine. It's 2'x36". I plan to sell my old one.

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Gee Custom CNC Tables I smell Money:)
Looks real good! Customer service Hmmm?
I'm working on a new plane the Gee Bee Z
The Last one a S400size Spitfire flies great:D
So project after project Ya I love my machine tooo:D
Thread has been Quiet hope everone is bussy:D

[AirX]

Hello Everyone,

I expected to be able to order from Cranky in May but things have gone soemwhat down hill on the money available, I have to wait a few more months. Damn I wish this economy would straighten up, have not been able to do anything.

Eric B.

[balsaman]

Hey guys, I am still building but see the end is near. I got my machine going together and have 2 of the 3 axis moving. I need to tidy it all up, add some cross bracing, and bolt some MDF to the base before I can start cutting. This one uses Gecko servo drives and I am getting 150 inches a minute rapids on the x and y.

Here is a picture.

Dickeybird warned me about the cnc bug before I started my first cnc way back. Panzypoof thanks for starting this thread.

Eric

[balsaman]

If anyone wants to see more on this machine there is a thread here: http://www.cnczone.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=646

Eric

[vintage1]

Hmm. Great thread Panzy/Cranky/Balsaman et al.

Taken me a few hours to read it all.

If anyone is still following, I would be deeply grateful for the answers to a few newbie questions.

But before I ask them, if there are any UK - in particular SE UK- guys out there who have built one of these, or want to, please PM me, because *I* don't think I have the skills or staying power to do it all by myself. Software and electronics - no probs. Its the sheer mechanicalness of it all that frightens me. If I was a good craftsman I wouldn't want to build one in the first place right? Catch 22 :)


(i) Zoltars kit looks like a way to solve that one by throwing (some) money at it. Has anyone used his stuff?

(ii) I understand all the theory of using stepper motors and leadscrews, and the kit to drive em, but at some level you have to have a conversion factor between 'one step=Xmm movement'...where does this happen? Or is it built into the leadscrew pitch, that is the software at some point knows that .1mm=one step on the stepper or something?

(iii) I asume that in addition to the steppers and drive electronics you need a PC running DOS that sends signals to the driver cards for the steppers. I note that problems with WinDoes(not) abound. That doesn't surprise me: You need real time responses from the PC, and Windows itself has a way of pre-empting real time tasks. DOS is much better..Those who were interested in Linux may find its no better - but there are 'real time' Linux kernels out there that will allow precise real time operation. Anyway I would NOT want my main PC to be transferred over to where I am generating balsa dust. So a separate PC is in order...would this simply take 'G-code' files and convert them to stepper steps? Have I understood that bit right?

(iv) Limit switches. Do these go right back to the PC? Or to the driver boards? I mean will the machine lose its zero if you hit the switches?

(v) Ditto the Big Red Button...what do you do with that. Does that simply cut all power - requiring a reset of all calibration?

(vi) Routing head. I have a big old woodworking router...1/2" chuck I think. Is this overkill? No big deal if I have to go out and buy a dremel - I don't have even ONE right now...but any UK style info would be helpful on this.

Hoping that nay UK based people - and Zoltar if he is still subscribed - will PM me. My main e-mail address is hidden in the profile, as I already have too much porn and spam mail to cope with, but PM wil serve.

[balsaman]

The ones I can answer in order:

ii) this is done in the software that runs the gcode file. For example turbocnc. There is a setup section where you setup inches per step etc.

iii) a seperate PC is required, close to the machine. If you run dos software, a 486 or better will be fine. There is one Windows software that works well that I know of, called Master5 or Mach 1 (www.artofcnc.com) but it requires over 300 mhz at least to run. yes it takes the gcode file and converts it to step and direction pulses to the controller.

iv) The limits switches go back to the controller generally, but go from there straight thru to the PC. The controller just has the handy terminal strip to make the connections, and the plug for the parallel cable. There are home switches and over travel limits switches. All are optional. The home switches 0 the axis only if you are "homing" the machine, which is done through the gcode software. if you are not homing, they are ignored. Overtravel limit swithes would disable the drive(s), as they prevent the machine from crashing into it's mechanical limits. BTW the gcode software also looks after such things as Jogging the axis'.

v)It depends on how you wire it up. I made mine so the big red button cuts all power. The pc doesn't care so it keeps sending a zillion steps. Yes, you need to reset the machine and start over if you need to hit it. if one uses overtravel limits, I suppose if you wired them as sourcing and normally closed, all in series, then the big red button would make the PC think you hit an overtravel switch (because the +5 volts would go away) and it would stop. I will let you know, as I am working on my over travel limits now on my new machine.

vi) A large router is a little heavy for most home made machines, unless it's going to be fairly large. Stick to a dremel, or maybe a rotozip type tool.

Hope this helps.

Check your pm's

Eric

[vintage1]

Thanks for all that. Also the unspoken implicatin that its all driven via a parallel port...

Am I right in thinking that, by and large, the G-cose is basically instructions to move the cutter? Apart from a few higher level commands. (set cutter speed, etc etc)

It looks like I could easily write a G-code interpreter for e.g. Linux and integrate that with a custome board to pluf into a PC...Hmm. I have a mate who designs thigs with stepper motors - spectrometers.

And another one with a lathe and mill. He knows software too. Hmm.

Many many thanks. I'll have a chat with some mates then.

[balsaman]

Yes, a gcode moves the cutter.

G0 x0 y0 z0 would move the cutter at the max speed towards 0,0,0. G1 x2 y20 z2 F40 would move it to 2,20,2 at a feed rate of 40 units per minute (mm if metric, inches if imperial--this is setup in the software)

There is also g2 and g3 which is clockwise or counter clockwise arcs.

And a couple dozen more gcodes.

Eric

[uscra112]

G00 moves all axes at their max individual speeds, too, so the travel is rarely a straight line. G01 will follow a line from start point to end point point.

[uscra112]

Any of our brethren in there that know of software that will allow me to trace a bitmap file, say a .jpg or .tif or .bmp, and create a .dxf file of CAD entities?

[vintage1]

Its being discussed in open: Consensus is you are better off hand tracing the bitmap using as few splines/beziers as possible, otherwise the gcode gets HUGE and full of thimngs like move .001mm up etc.

[uscra112]

But how to do the hand tracing? I've fooled around a bit on AutoCLOD, but haven't seen a way to draw a line over the top of the bitmap object. Not that I'm any great hand at ACAD - my idea of CAD is Anvil1K - the version that will run on an 8086 chip. OK, OK, so I'm a dinosaur. There is a thread somewhere, you say ? ?

[vintage1]

Ah. I use Corel Draw...I basically turn the bitmaps grey and go over with a different color. Its hard work basically, and takes time.

The only advantage is you can do it again and again without wasting balsa :)


In the end itf its not super critical, I tend to take a few points and just fudge the drawing.

[uscra112]

Hmmm - but can you get lines and arcs that fit into a CAD database out of Corel? ( I've never once even opened Corel.)

[DICKEYBIRD]

Go to http://homepage.ntlworld.com/heatons/softsoft/wintopo/index-free.htm and download their free raster/vector converter then go to http://www.al-ki.com/tcad/download.php#HatchPatterns download the free TurboCAD Learning Edition (actually the full featured v4.1) WinTopo will sorta convert raster to vector and save as .dxf....load that into T/CAD on 1 layer, trace over the vectors on a separate layer using a contrasting color, using snaps to speed up the tracing and delete the original converted vectors. TurboCAD will allow you to load in a .bmp or other raster images but it chomps up mucho memory plus you can't snap to a raster pixel. Download the 2 freebies, play around a few days and see what happens for you!:)

CorelDraw has an OCR program I think and I've been told that it is the same app that comes in the pay real money version of T/CAD v4.0 up....none of the cheap raster/vector converters work well enough to use as is but do save you some time, IMO.

Good luck!

[vintage1]

Corel can export DXF's and then you can Gcode those if you want. I got turbocad but frankly, its no better then Corel really - and in some senses worse.

It doesn't do beziers like Corel, and its a bit buggier in the free version.

Rhino is where I would want to go...:)

[uscra112]

Hey, Dickeybird, the Wintopo freeware does the job in seconds, once I convert the .jpg file to a .bmp file so the freeware will open it. I owe ya one! The .dxf files it generated could be sucked up into my Anvil1K no sweat. This is gonna be fun ! The resulting vectors look pretty good - no need to trace anything. Text comes thru kinda funny but who cares - what I want is the outlines. Now I've got 'em.

[AirX]

when using AutoCAD to make a tracing of an image of any that are importable into AutoCAD, using the tools menu you must set the image to back and then use a line color other than white. works for me, I do a lot of 3D modeling using this method to extract the base objects from vendor dwg's that I have imported into the dwg.

Eric B.

[PanzyPoof]

When working on a Image say a Fuse Former I cut it in half, Do all the Stringers lightening holes etc then mirror it over. - Half the work!
Cleaning the image for Gcoding takes some time as all lines must be free of clutter/double lines dots etc, intersections must be trimmed.
And if the tool is too big for the track to follow it don't gcode that section.
Also ya gotta check toolpath, side of line to cut.

As to cutting and saving Balsa :rolleyes:
Most of the time Once I'm holding a Piece fresh outta the Machine I start seeing a better way to do it , add this, move that here, so I may recut the part :mad: $$$$

[DICKEYBIRD]

Originally posted by vintage1
Corel can export DXF's and then you can Gcode those if you want. I got turbocad but frankly, its no better then Corel really - and in some senses worse.

It doesn't do beziers like Corel, and its a bit buggier in the free version.

Rhino is where I would want to go...:) Yup, many, many programs will do what we need, I was simply offering a way to get their "feet wet" without spending a dime to those that don't have any program at all . Rhino's definitely cool but out of the reach of most of us. Same goes for Corel. TurboCAD bugs???:confused: The download I linked to is an earler version that is a full featured v4.1 (other than the raster/vector converter) and seems to be rock stable for 2D drawing.

[AirX]

Originally posted by PanzyPoof
As to cutting and saving Balsa :rolleyes:
Most of the time Once I'm holding a Piece fresh outta the Machine I start seeing a better way to do it , add this, move that here, so I may recut the part :mad: $$$$

This I think is the only reason that 3D is so valuable, you can virtualy build it in the computer without cutting wood.

Today I sent out the money to Cranky for a Morph plan, the adventure will soon begin... :)

Cheers,

Eric B.

[uscra112]

The thing Dickeybird pointed me to is plenty for me. I know there are a number of programs that will do 2D cutter-path generation from a .dxf file, and I can actually remember myself programming a machining center by punching in G-code byte-by-byte on a TELETYPE machine.

Now THERE'S a direction this hobby should go! We have Vintage classes for all kinds of models, why not a thread for vintage NC machine tool technology! Lovingly restored optical tape readers! Hydraulic servos! Offset resolvers! Nixie tube readouts!

Uh, oh, now I've stirred Cranky up.

[DICKEYBIRD]

Originally posted by uscra112
I know there are a number of programs that will do 2D cutter-path generation from a .dxf file, and I can actually remember myself programming a machining center by punching in G-code byte-by-byte on a TELETYPE machine. In case you didn't see this earlier in the thread, here's a link to Yeager Automation's FREE .dxf/G-Code converter called ACE Converter. http://www.yeagerautomation.com/price.htm 4th download up from the bottom.

This one changed my CNC life! My old MaxNC utility required you to create each part .dxf in it's proper location on the worksheet, save each one with a separate filename, convert each one on it's on then paste each G-code string together in a word processor! ACE does it all in one fell swoop, allows you to assign each part to a separate layer if needed to determine cut sequence, depth, etc. I like to glue sheets together into 12" x 12" panels (my table's size) and shift all the parts around in CAD before G-Code conversion to get as many as possible on the panel for maximum material utilization.

[PanzyPoof]

uscra112:) Say What? Vintage is for Wine:D
How much have you had :eek:
Right now it's easier but still a heafty piece of work to get files ready to cut.
Hmmm wondering if a Home Depo laser cutter could be built:rolleyes: Any Ideas?
DICKEYBIRD Same problem at first was wasting sheets of material . Now I try and have all the model laid out for and allotted for
material so 1/8 balsa cuts get grouped together. Before it was working on tail so only cutting tail pieces and material for 3 rids was going to scrap.

[AirX]

Is there is ag-code viewer, it seems that i saw one somewhere in the thread just dont know where.

Eric B.

[crankorgan]

Hi,
Download FLASHCUT. Half the program is dead. The half that works will display a GCode file. It will also take a DXF and save it as a GCode.

John

[AirX]

Thanks Cranky,

I did download Flashcut and it works pretty good, I got ace converter to make a gcode file for me, and I also found another G-code viewer made for AutoCAD called Quick View, it worked well with ACAD 2000. This viewer can be found at www.GSKTechnologies.com if you use AutoCAD check it out.
Thanks to all for the help so far, will be checking in a lot as I get the plans from Cranky and start building.

Eric B.

[crankorgan]

Eric B,
there is also KCam by Kellyware. You setup the program the same as your machine. When you import the DXF it is displayed on a Grid that represents the cutting bed of your machine. The cutting pattern is RED and the travel is BLUE. The only problem is KCam does not run the motors as smooth as TurboCNC and it's $100 to register.


John

[uscra112]

A guy I used to work with was a refugee from a real laser-cutting-machine company. He was advocating laser instead of milling, but I ignored him. Maybe I should wake 'im up.

I'm also thinking that I can take a docent's job at Henry Ford when I retire - y'know - show all them whippersnappers how REAL men used to do it!

[uscra112]

A guy I used to work with was a refugee from a real laser-cutting-machine company. He was advocating laser instead of milling, but I ignored him. Maybe I should wake 'im up.

I'm also thinking that I can take a docent's job at Henry Ford when I retire - y'know - show all them whippersnappers how REAL men used to do it!

[crankorgan]

uscra112,
Lasers cut and engrave. Milling materals at different depths like a milling machine is another story. They are neat in many way! Both systems have their place. Like hotdogs and hamburgers.

John

[balsaman]

Originally posted by AirX
Thanks Cranky,

I did download Flashcut and it works pretty good, I got ace converter to make a gcode file for me, and I also found another G-code viewer made for AutoCAD called Quick View, it worked well with ACAD 2000. This viewer can be found at www.GSKTechnologies.com if you use AutoCAD check it out.
Thanks to all for the help so far, will be checking in a lot as I get the plans from Cranky and start building.

Eric B.

The qview viewer doesn't display the arcs correctly for me. See pic.

Eric

[AirX]

Hi Balsaman,

I could not get it to do arcs or put circles in the correct place with Q-viewer, it looked like it went well with lines geometric shapes.

I tried Flash-cut but I downloaded the previous version and locating the files I wanted to work with from thier file finding utility was difficult because I use long file names common to 95 and newer V-Windows. It is still early to be playig with these things but gotta do something while I am waiting. :)

Cheers,

Eric B.

Originally posted by balsaman
The qview viewer doesn't display the arcs correctly for me. See pic.

Eric

[crankorgan]

Eric,
I take it those large circles are not suppose to be there? I found KCam messed up clockwise cutting so I draw everything counterclockwise. Every program requires a workaround. It starts with Windows ;)

John

[AirX]

Cranky,

I went back to Flashcut and downloaded the newer version, much easier navigation for finding files. pretty interesting watching it do its thing to. :)

Eric B.

[crankorgan]

Eric B.,
Make a DXF and put it in Flashcut or KCAM. Then Run it through ACE and view. Notice how the traveling lines are removed. A sloppy DXF can become a sloppy GCode file. The machine spends more time traveling than cutting.

John

[pixbroker]

to balsaman:

i really like your router design. was it designed from scratch or did you start with a plan or similar.

what are the tolerances you get with this?
have you tried to machine aluminum?

thanks,
-rene

[limbo]

Hi all

What a great thread this is!! I've been browsing the net back and forth (several times I think) gathering as much information as possible for building my own CNC router. Now that I've finished my machine I stumbled across this thread :( . Good timing or what? Anyway, I'll post some pics soon. Of course now this one is finished I really need to build a second one:D . I was lucky to find an old XY table for free, with 3cm thick (round) steel bars and linear ball bearings sliding across them. The steel bars are a bit rusty so I want to take the thing apart for cleaning (and re-arranging). Now my question is: Can the linear bearings be taken off the bars without the balls falling out? I don't know who the manufacturer is but maybe its common practice to make the bearings in such a way that the balls cannot fall out or are there some types that do fall apart?

Thanks for the help,
John

[PanzyPoof]

limbo:) Absolutly zero knowlage about how the BB are held in place. I'm guessing but a Magnet may help Keep things in Line;)
Was just wondering how bad is the Rust and will cleaning it effect tolerance very much? For free eh! gotta like that! Too bad they are rusting think they would use a good quality S-Steel for the Rails.
Ya Show use some Pics!

[limbo]

Here are some pics of my first machine (just before it was completed) Its a real biggie. 100 x 55 cm working area. Also very cheap built. It uses an 80 cm wide Y-axes assembly from an old plotter as a moving gantry on top of an ordinary desk. The bearings are taken from old roller skates. It has 10mm threaded rod for leadscrews. A bit hard to find because they need to be 120 cm long while 100cm is standard. Max speed is 400mm/min,
higher than that will cause whipping of the X-leadscrews.

I saw some discussion about moving gantry vs fixed gantry before. I think there is actually no fundamental difference, its just in the aspect ratio of the part that is moving in the X-dir. Moving gantrys are wide (in Y-dir) with minimal length in X-dir to make the table not longer than desired. Fixed gantrys have the (almost square) table moving in the X_dir so there is much less tendency to yaw. If you would make a moving gantry with the gantry itself being square it would be just as easy to align and drive as a fixed gantry. However, it would also result in a machine two times larger than the working area, just as with a fixed gantry.

To me it seems that the simplest solution for short moving gantrys is to use two leadscrews for the X-direction, thereby eliminating all yaw. Both X-steppers have seperate drivers but identical input signals.

Cranky, are you still following this thread?

I read that you were having problems with the MDF bending at longer lengths. If you leave out the pipes and have the gantry rolling on the table itself the distance from cutter to table stays constant, even if the table "sags" a bit in the middle. the gantry just rides along. Also desks are cheap. See pics.

John

[limbo]

and another pic

[limbo]

and another one...

By adjusting the screws some tension can be applied to the horizontal bearings so there is absolutely no play in the Y-direction. The weight of the gantry itself keeps the vertical bearings firmly on their feet....:rolleyes:

[crankorgan]

Iimbo,
If I told people to find a table and build a CNC machine into it, all kinds of problems would arise. I try to use easy to find parts. I have people claiming they can't find roller blade bearings.
Glad the table worked out for you.


Jphn

[pixbroker]

hi all!

i am looking for info/product links for affortable servo controller/motor kits. does anyone have some information?

thanks a lot in advnce.
-rene

[limbo]

Cranky,

I hope you didnt get the impression that I'm trying to tell you how to build CNC stuff. You have LOTS more experience than I do. There just might be some inspiration in newcomers ideas. If everyone here combines forces and shares ideas we could come even further than where we are now. For instance one could take a standard size MDF board. They are truly square and parallel. Here in Europe we have 122*61 cm available. Maybe its possible to reinforce the sides with plastic or aluminium L-profiles to keep the bearings from running in. Because everything is so nice and parallel there is NO adjusting for the X-direction required. Combined with your window-channel Y-axes who knows how simple a big machine could be built...

All the best
John

[crankorgan]

Limbo,
Big machines have a small market. The 7th Sojourn and the Brute are the top sellers. Large machines hog space like an unused boat. I sold only 30 Phoenix and 20 Routezilla plansets so far. In a good week I sell 20 7th Sojourn or Brute plansets.

John

[limbo]

Just swept the MSblast virus from my PC. Feels a lot better.:p

Heres a pic from the XY-assembly I was donated. The rust is not too bad. Some steelwool should take most of it away. I guess the stop rings are there for a reason. So far I didnt take the risk of taking one of the bearings off the rod. Probably sliding over from one rod to the other is doable.

Cranky, I envy you for being able to make a living out of such a great hobby..

Greetings,
John

[crankorgan]

Limbo,
It is a great job! I still put in long hours. They say if you enjoy what you are doing it's not work. They say alot of things. I still get people contacting me saying you can't mill balsa. I send them here!

John

[PanzyPoof]

Limbo
Say how did you get rid of Blast Worm??
PM me Thanks.
Nice Score on the Rails
pixbroker Plug and Play Look to Robot supliers I've seen a few steppers and controler setup packages but they were $$
Crankys Board is working fine for me:D

[Mythos]

I dunno if this has already been discussed in the forum...but I was just wondering if it's possible for the CNC Mill Machines posted in this thread to mill a 3-D aluminum part?

[balsaman]

Yep, but slowly. Most home made machines are not heavy enough to cut aluminum at any great rate. Another problem is the coolant you need isn't nice on a wooden machine. It can be done, but it's better to stich with wood or very simple, light aluminum parts.

Eric

[Silberzorn]

Hey all,

First up, I want to say thanks to all the posters to this thread. The information available here is as amazing as it is invaluable.

So I've read all the posts here a couple of times, and my father and I are keen to build a cnc machine. We are only at the very early stage at the moment ie. making plans and gathering parts.

I have also started to learn to autocad, and I just have a question in regard to its connection with cnc milling. If I want to cut out a design whether it be a gear wheel, a celtic pattern or part of a fuselage of a model aircraft, should I design the part in 2D in autocad and set cutting depths at milling time? Or should I design the part in 3D in autocad and let the dxf -> gcode conversion program take care of it? As I said before, I am only still at the beginning of this seemingly life consuming hobby ;) so if I just asked a dumb question also please let me know ;)

Thanks,

Nick

[PanzyPoof]

That's a good question:)
I've only been doing it in 2D and setting the depth at G-coding. Works well!
It just would be nice to have it drawn all out in 3D first, to check fit it all !
Interested also to hear the responce to this Question:confused:

Here's my latest CNC project flies nice.

[balsaman]

I also draw in 2D and set the depth when I convert to gcode. If you want to get fancy and cut 3D surfaces and stuff, then you may need a 3D drawing. Cutting out parts from flat sheets is called 2.5D and 2D cad drawings are all you need.

Eric

[ezland00]

Does anyone know where i can find some cheap leadscrews or ball screws? i am using Size 23 motor.

[balsaman]

Sometimes acme rod is sold at Lowes. Many people just use regular threaded rod on the first machine. If you want real lead screws and ballnuts, you may want to check ebay.

Eric

[Flugzoid]

What a great thread. Nice bird PanzyPoof. What's the size? How many individual pieces were milled to put that beauty together?
flugzoid

[PanzyPoof]

Flugzoid:) Thanks !

How many individual pieces were milled to put that beauty together?
Hmm? let me count:rolleyes:
Approx 56 peices where done on the Router.
She's gonna have a Wild from the Other side paint Job;) Soon
Span is 32" nose to Tail 26" And build like a IL-2 . Worked out the Bugs with #1 including, planes can do a kool Kartwheel and 8 crashes.
Retired her after the Firewall got smashed!! Spitfire #2 had a Midair only slight damage still flying .....
FFX that rifled into her blew apart:D
My CNC is worth every Penny and I paid for it,!
And by building it my self I saved a lot too.
Took some time and there's a learning curve to get around. Go Dog Go!:D

[Flugzoid]

Not only great looking but sturdy too. I would say that's definitely worth what you've put into the CNC. Looks like a whole other hobby out there. I'll have to start going back over the threads and figure out how to build one maybe...guess I better start saving though. Looks expensive.

Flugzoid

[PanzyPoof]

Group, figure it this way... my machine cost approx $500CDN the same as 4 ARF's once you smash'em ya got nothing:D

[RTaylor]

PanzyProof
I've started to assemble mine(7th sojourn) I got most of the basic supplies, I cant wait to get this going.
Randy

[devmonkey]

Does anyone have experience of the autograv products. These seem very well priced for their speed, accuracy and power.

www.autograv.de

I am thinking of buying one, so any advice would be welcome,

thanks,

Joe

[nerobro]

I just sent in my stuff to get the plans to one of these mills. I think my small r/c planes will benifit greately from this ;-)

[Tree_Magnet]

ya i helped panzy with his 7th sojourn (software stuff and set up)
and tonight i bought the stuff to start my won
TOM

[PanzyPoof]

Good stuff Tree Magnet:D I still got some Lexan and other leftovers your welcome too!
Soon you'll be cutting formers and Ribs for that Lancaster you been drooling over.
See ya tomorrow tell me all about it.

I'm flying 2 of my CNC produced planes at a fun fly tomorrow what a great way to spend a afternoon:D a third one my Gee BeeZ is scratched for the day:rolleyes: (Lazy)
And I'm looking forward to build a new plane
cause I got these nice retracts that need a home Hmmm? Hellcat?:confused:
Hobby has gotten weird! now I can design scale cut and build a plane around retracts:D

[zagisrule!]

Hello,
I am considering building a very small CNC machine to fabricate PCBs. Since the boards I make are mostly SMT, there is no need for the machine to drill holes. So, I would like to make a 2 axis (X and Y) machine with a 8"x8" platform for cutting. From what I understand I need:
-A table capable of moving smoothly and slop-free in the X or Y axis
-A tool platform capable or holding my Dremel tool firmly and moving smoothly in the opposite axis to the table
-A power supply
-2 Stepper motors
-CNC software
-This last bit is the part I am unsure of. What interfaces the motors to the computer? Are there any designs out there? Schematics?

Do I have this correct so far? I have tried to read this whole thread, but I have not caught an exact description of the control circuitry, hence my post.

Help is greatly appreciated!

[Bez]

Hi Zagisrule,

Try this link.
I have checked just about every site I can find, and this one seems to be the best way to go.
Plan's are $30, and most of the materials are advailible at your local hardware store, and you can build it with common hand tools.

Bez

http://www.crankorgan.com/

[zagisrule!]

Great!

Checking it out now.

[AirX]

Check out this site to see what the ultimate in CNC modeling could be.

http://www.corpcomp.com/weeks1/mb/mb.html

Eric B.

[PanzyPoof]

zagisrule!:) ya need a Z axis or all ya have is a expensive Etch O Sketch,
No One Could ever draw squat with one cause ya can't lift and move the etching point. :p

[crankorgan]

Online Etch O Sketch




CNC controlled Middle of page


http://www.gadgeteer.org/


Cranky

[PanzyPoof]

Hi Cranky:)
Online Etch A Sketch !!!!
Now I've seen just about all there is to see!
He needs to install anouther Axis so he can flip it and shake:D
My God:(
The Phone tracker would be usefull if you have a cheating spouse.

[crankorgan]

PanzyPoof,
There was one you could flip and shake! They come and go on the internet. I think they are popular final projects for engineering students.

John

[RTaylor]

Alright guys whats going on. were is everybody and what are you doing
Randy

[PanzyPoof]

I know TreeMagnet is Bussy building his router, just waiting for him to share;)
As for me I kindda switched tracks and I've just begun a Chopper Build:) Thats my frame in pic bottom of page it's #001 so I'll be Bussy along with a few planes I have shelved.
http://www.ironhorsechoppers.ca/frames/index.html
If your wondering those Frames are from Big Bear Choppers well not anymore seems they had a falling out . Big Bear now has no frames or a supplier. Yup those Kool Califorina Choppers are designed and build in Bolton Ontario Canada:eek:
All CNC done too. Owner Promised me a Tour of the Shop. CNC at it's finest :cool:
Old School Chop builders are not impressed.

[balsaman]

I am busy building a 4th axis for my newest cncrouter.

Eric

[balsaman]

Denis,

This one might interest you:
Want the gcode?

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Hi Eric. Looking at your machine Hmm nice size. 4th axis would be rotating tool right ?
Ok I don't see it:(
As for the Harley Crest thanks but I'm selling my H/D asap. Glad I never got a Tatoo;)

[uscra112]

Good lad. Never could see the use of a bike that, as we used to say, "don't go, don't stop, and don't handle". Get a BMW.

[DICKEYBIRD]

I'm here!:) Not much CNC routing or toy airplane building going on.:( Trying to get caught up on some construction and how-to articles for a magazine. Man, what a pain.

[balsaman]

4th axis is a rotary axis. Kind of like a slow lathe on the table bed. Used for round stuff like helical gears or turbine blades!

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Eric Shure is Nice. YA should start punching out those Wood clocks in a nice wood and Sell em, couple hundred a pop. Stick the in tourist town Boutiques:D I get 1/2 percent for the Idea:rolleyes:

[DICKEYBIRD]

Originally posted by balsaman
4th axis is a rotary axis. Kind of like a slow lathe on the table bed. Used for round stuff like helical gears or turbine blades!
Hmmmm, very early in this thread, some guy said "Warning, this can be a whole 'nuther hobby!" Watch out Eric!

[uscra112]

Look like you've abandoned steppers for real servos, eh, Balsaman? What next - linear motors? A Hexapod?

Your 4th axis a table or a horizontal-axis indexer?

[BennyLaird]

This looks like fun? I'm reading through and getting info overload.

I have a Dremel and want to cut ply and balsa parts and find the parts to build the tool here in Australia. I have taught electronics and computers for years so this will be right up my alley.

I guess in short I need to find a design and some aussie contacts.
I know I can do this by reading all the pages but I'm just impatient, lol.

Benny

[PanzyPoof]

Ya DICKEYBIRD ya did warn us :(
Now I know why!
You were trying to keep all this fun to yourself:D
Hmmm I'm starting to worry about Balsaman he may OD :(

[Trizza]

Benny, the hardest thing here is the stepper motors. The best source I've found is second hand computer stores! Look for big old dot matrix (or earlier) printers, they have some hefty steppers.
Good luck and keep me posted - I want to start one of these soon myself.

[uscra112]

Trizza - get on eBay and you'll find a zillion of 'em. Also read WAY WAY back in this thread and you'll find sources that'll ship to you.

Do steppers motors rotate backward in the Southern Sphere?

[Bez]

Hi all,

Just mailed my order for Phoenix plans from John Kleinbauer's Website.

http://www.crankorgan.com/

That's gonna be my winter project.
Neat little machines, alot of bang for the bucks!

I read every post here, and saved two pages of links about CNC stuff.

I have a shop full of woodworking tools, and some light metal working tools, so I should be good to go!

I guess I'm offically a 99.99 percenter lol.


I used to operate and program CNC mills and lathes, and have computer and electronics background.

Here's a link to some of my "play toys" at work, I'm a Inspector/ Quality Technician. I use a portible CMM Arm to measure things, mostly large welded stuctures.

We have both brands of these Arms at work.

http://www.faro.com/

http://www.romer.com/main/index.php




Bez

[balsaman]

Panzy,

I am still flying too. No OD here...;).

Dickeybird,

Yep, you warned us. It's too late to turn back tho.

4th axis is a horizontal indexer, not a table. I will post a couple pics later.

Eric

[BennyLaird]

Originally posted by Trizza
Benny, the hardest thing here is the stepper motors. The best source I've found is second hand computer stores! Look for big old dot matrix (or earlier) printers, they have some hefty steppers.
Good luck and keep me posted - I want to start one of these soon myself.

Thanks Guys

I used to teach at Vic Uni TAFE and we had a room full of donated bit's and pieces but I didn't have the need then LOL. We had small driver boards to demonstrate steppers. Probably still there in a back room so I'll see if I can get access again.

I'm thinking a 7th Sojourn but being an Aussie makes it hard to get the plan. Is there any chance Cranky? Perhaps a third party could forward it to me?

I move into the new house Friday so the shed will be a clean slate and I can set it up properly.

Thanks

Benny

[crankorgan]

Hi,
I don't sell the plans outside the US an Canada because the window channel and other parts can not be found in other countries.

Cranky