Looking for CNC Mill Part I

[AirX]

Hi PanzyPoof,

Soon I will startt gathering the parts for mine, probably a Cranky Design for the first one and then my own later. Does anyone know where the cheap stepper motors are?

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Check back on page 2 this thread I posted the Phone # for the one's I got Pic of them on page 1. They have been really good so far.
It's a Canadian Shop and the exchange rate is good. Think there up around $18cdn now.
Once the word got out. Up from $5
Don't know about supply haven't been there lately.

[AirX]

Ok, I went back to the telephone number you reffered to and will try them tomorrow. Thanks for the help.

Eric

[georgeg]

Originally posted by AirX
Hi PanzyPoof,

Does anyone know where the cheap stepper motors are?

Eric

Generally, you can find some inexpensive motors on eBay. Two weeks back, I bought 5 new in box Vexta motor for $23.50 delivered. However, I looked at whats listed right now and the motors available aren't real cheap.

[Oski]

Airx...When you call them you may have trouble explaining what you want. The first person I talked to didn't know what they were. I went to their web site and located the part number and also determined that they had over 4000 in stock. The price on them worked out to $11.00 each. But there was two sets of taxes added on. I guess they were local and Federal? They were fairly stiff. But the motors and service was excellent.

[PanzyPoof]

In Ontario the Bandits take 15% Tax.
But you're US $ is worth 50% more so it's still
a good deal.
Get some Spares ya never know.
Didn't know they had a web site! Found it
http://www.sayal.com/
Bigger company then I thought! Only know the Mississauga shop, thought that was it.
Phone # is for that location. Oops
Kinda neet mall there! 5 electronic shops door to door. Geek heaven:eek:

[AirX]

Hi Oski and Panzypoof,

Found the site for Sayal, what steppers did you order Oski, I am still learning about what I need and it is a hard road being electrically challenged.

Eric

Ok found a page that answered my own question but I will still take advice.... :)

[PanzyPoof]

sku# 158078

[AirX]

Thanks Panzypoof, I see that number there as instock. I want to order today but I will have to wait unitl Monday. The other things on my growing list will be gathered as the next few weeks progress.

Eric

[Arbo]

I know this isn't the sale forum.... but since many are talking about steppers and such, just wanted to say I have 4, barely used (only to test a control board I made) that I'm looking to get rid of because I really don't have the time for it....

They are 6 wire (unipolar? I forget)
Step-Syn 4.1V 1.1A .8DEG/Step
Type 103G770-2521
IBM PN 94x5937
Sanyo Denki Co., ltd.
I'd like to get rid of all 4 of them... PM if interested...

Paul

[crankorgan]

Hi Guys,
I just wanted to say this is the best thread on the internet for making a simple CNC machine that cuts RC parts. I made my own place but some of the people who showed up were not as nice and talented as the people here! I have opened my doors to Eric (balsaman) and other I met here. Now that the smoke has cleared I can start helping people again.

John

[AirX]

Hi Cranky,

Good to hear from you again. I will be looking to order a set of plans in the next few weeks to start on my own little CNC project.

Cheers...

Eric

[migkillr]

Hi guys,

I'm new here, but getting started on the building. Cranky, thanks for being prompt on mailing out the plans. I've got the rails mounted to the base and the side plates and skates cut out. I'm going to use the double skates, just because. Found a set of 16 roller blade bearings on sale at Wal Mart for 10 bucks. I don't know if I can make mine as perfect as some of you, but I'm hoping for as good as I can do (ha!). Measuring 3 times and cutting once helps. I'm still looking for a sheet of PVC, but haven't found a source yet. As for mounting the rails, it wasn't too bad, but the MDF compresses a little when you tighten everything up and the initial measurement ends up being a tiny bit less than called for in the plans. The good news is, I made it the same amount all around. The rails are parallel. I'll be asking lots of stupid questions along the way. More soon.

P.S. - Dickeybird....I'm in Collierville.

[crankorgan]

Hi,
If you are just cutting out balsa, height adjustments can be a little off but you don't want the trolley to rock. You can shim the flanges with thin brass or aluminum to raise or lower the rails later on. On my LINKS page there is a guy who will sell you PVC cheap. Scrap pieces or precut blanks. You may be in Canada. If so look for a plastics place.

John

[migkillr]

Okay, going back to your site for PVC. Didn't see it the first time. I don't think it'll rock and I'll be anal retentive about making sure when I mount it. That's one of the reasons I decided on the double skates (more stable=more better). Any variation side to side, although slight, should be able to be adjusted with the roller bearing mounts...least it looks like it. I just ordered my steppers from Sayal, so they'll be here before long. As for the height, I measured with a micrometer, so when I say "a little off", I mean just a little. I figure once it's all fired up, I'll have to make a few adjustments anyway, but hopefully only a few. I'm enjoying your plans Cranky. Stay tuned!

[crankorgan]

migkillr,
There is so much to CNC. Just having a machine that moves will teach you alot. Building the machine perfect the first run though might do more harm then good. The paint you used looks like aircraft.....yellow?

John

[migkillr]

Yep, if I wanted to just have something perfect, I'd have spent 6 grand and bought one. I want to learn "how", not just "how to". If this all works out and I dig it as much as I think, then maybe I will buy some high-zoot machine and start a business, but that's way down the road. Gotta have fun first.

I figured this thing would scream like some demented bird, so tweety bird yellow seemed like a good choice. It'll brighten up the shop, too. Courtesy of Home Cheapo and Rustoleum :p

[crankorgan]

I hope you used latex, oil base takes forever to dry.

[PanzyPoof]

migkillr:D Looking good! When you assemble the upprights and back I used Wood glue as well as screws.(did ya paint the Edges?) Pre drill the MDF of course. And a good trick is pour some thin CA into the pilot hole let dry then screw. MDF tends to crack/seperate around a screw.
(a bad MDF flaw) Real wood is made by God.
I forget but I think mine is out a tinny amount .005" across the X table so it's Hmmm
of no concern.
It's great wonce it comes to life!... Soon;)

Cranky thats TN on migkillr's Avatar good ole USA eh .
Soon I expect here on this thread the USA will catch up in builds.:(
PVC is cheeper. And since ya don't have plastic shops in the USA you may be limited to it:p IF it wern't for SARS you would be welcome to come to Toronto and Shop at one of ours :(
I just like lexan plus it's clear but way more $$ Like a 10x18x1/2" piece cost $50CDN ouch! In Real Money $25~
Mine is single skates the leadscrew holds the table fine but shure double is better;)
yellow is :cool:
Go Dog Go!

[crankorgan]

Mig,
You can also use 10-24 bolts to hold the machine together. The MDF can be tapped. They also make screws for MDF. The threads stay the same thickness for the length of the screw. The look like silver drywall screws. Predrill the holes!!! I use 10-24 bolts on all the newer designs. After everything looks good I predrill holes and pin the parts with small nails.

John

[migkillr]

Panzy / Cranky,

Thanks for the advice. I'll plan on using probond to make sure the glue sticks to the paint. It's oil and it took a while to dry, but it's good to go now. I also have plenty of CA around, so that shouldn't be a big deal. I may go with the bolts instead of the screws, but either way, predrilling is a must, ....got it.

I contacted the plastics company from your site Cranky, and asked for a quote for a 4x4 piece, just to have some extra. Hope to get the trolley put together today and maybe the rest of the frame. Depends on time, of course! CU.

[crankorgan]

Mig,
Have Howard sell you the amount he sells on Ebay. Four sheets 17" X 24" X 1/4" or similar amount. A 4 foot by 4 foot
costs more to ship and buy.

John

[balsaman]

Hey Migkr,

Cool that your sharing the build with us here. This thread just never dies! Keep going and show us the pictures!

Hi John, welcome back...:)

Eric

[balsaman]

Here is what I have been working on with my cnc machine. It's not an airplane, but if a cnc can do this, a plane is a snap!

Eric

[balsaman]

oops,

[balsaman]

2

[balsaman]

3

[balsaman]

4

[balsaman]

5

[balsaman]

6

[migkillr]

Nice work there balsaman. What kind of machine are you using? I saw your earlier post with the gears and figure they must go with that beautiful clock. Are you selling those somewhere?

I got the rest of the frame put together today, but didn't get around to the skates and trolley. Had a yard to mow, Church to attend, etc....so I still feel good about my progress. I'll try to get a picture on later.

CU,

Dean

[migkillr]

Here's the latest.

Cranky, I'll get the package you suggested from the supplier. Gotta call SAYAL about my motors...used the wrong bank card (bummer). Shouldn't hold up progress, though.

[crankorgan]

Dean,
Howard has precut blanks of my parts. If you go with them get some extra PVC to have around. It is really neat stuff to work with. What do you think about the MDF?

John

[crankorgan]

Eric,
After all I went through I should have just hung out here! Like I said this place is the best!


John

[migkillr]

I like working with the MDF just fine. It's flat and easy to cut and drill. I predrilled all the holes and used screws with ProBond to assemble everything and it's solid as a rock. I countersunk all the exposed screws, although I sunk a few to deep. I can never stop when it's just tight enough:D

I'd rather mess with it than wood, but metal would probably work best. Again, though, you run into a cost factor and some frustration if you're not a good metal dude (I'm not). I'll be joining your private forum within a day or so.

Dean

[balsaman]

Mig,

I use AceConverter or MasterCam for toolpaths. Here is my machine. Lots of info in this thread about it. You should really read it all.

Eric

[PanzyPoof]

Say Eric what kinda wood and thickness is that clock from?
And Bit using?
My main bit has been a 4 flute
5/64 or .075 by(Mayford #11079) not bad though. Ripped up my last Table in crash and was fine.
I like the 3-D your doing thats nice:)

[balsaman]

Denis,

The clock is 3/8" MDF. The bit is 1/8" carbide two flute endmill. One endmill lasts around 1.5 clocks. MDF is hard on cutters.

Eric

[AirX]

Wow,

After sitting idle for weeks at a time this thread is going like gangbusters again. I gotta get on the stick and get going with the little CNC router table. Good to hear from Cranky too.

Eric Barnett

[migkillr]

Need to know how to cut threaded rod. Methods available: Hacksaw (least desirable), electric grinder, bandsaw with blade for wood. Used the bandsaw on the aluminum angles, but the rod causes me some concern. Hard to CNC mill with no eyes.

Thanks,
Dean :D

[PanzyPoof]

migkillr
Forget the band saw!
Use a hacksaw and file it clean. Ya won't need safty shades for that. But wear em just the same.
Getting a metal sliver stuck in the eyeball is no fun.
YA know they use a small needle from a 10cc siringe to pluck it out. You get a blurry view of the Doc needle in hand approaching your
frozen eye, Screaming not a Option. ya gotta stay super still. I was lucky! :eek:

[crankorgan]

Mig,
Spin a nut onto the threaded rod to where you want to cut it. Clamp the nut in the bench vise. If the threaded rod is long use a support on one end to hold it level. Use a hacksaw to cut it.
File or belt sand the end.

John

[uscra112]

Um, safety glasses exist for a very, very good reason. DO get yerself a pair, even if they're just the plastic kind they sell at Home Despot. I've been saved from flat losing an eye once. Took a hit from a broken lathe tool smack on the lens. Left a divot the size of a pea. ( It was a BIG lathe. )

Cranky's method is as good as any normal body will ever need. I often use my lathe, but then, I HAVE a lathe.

[migkillr]

Got the safety goggles, or just use my own glasses, but still don't like shards of metal flying at my face, goggles or no.

Anyhoo, the trolley is built and on the rails. I abandoned the double rails for the time being....just too much trouble to fool with right now. I had to auger one of the horizontal bearing holes to make sure it fit correctly between the rails. There was to much interference at first, but great now. I have one roller that doesn't contact the pipe as well as the others with no load on the trolley. With just a little bit of preload, it seems to roll fine. Cranky, it looks like the trolley will be loaded a little on final assembly. Is that correct?

Thanks,

Dean

[crankorgan]

Dean,
If it rolls smooth without play in any spot, that's it. On one skate side you can oval the holes in the MDF. This allows the skate to achive perfect alignment. Then tighten the bolts holding the skate to the Trolley. Also make sure the trolley does not rock in any location on the rails.

John

[migkillr]

John,

Sorry for the bother. I jumped the gun on the question. Tonight I was reading over the plans during a lull at work and saw paragraph under "the hardest parts" section regarding the trolley. With some slight adjustments, I've gotten it all very close with no side/side rocking or play and only 1 bearing about 1mm from the pipe. Also saw the part about the 2 axes loading the trolley, so not a problem. I'll be out of town for a couple of days and hope to see the motors here from sayal by then. I emailed the guy about the PVC, but nothing back so far...i.e., I'm working to a standstill.

More as it happens. I'll be really in the dark when we get to electronics:cool:

CU,

Dean

P.S. - if you guys get tired of the running dissertation on the thread, let me know and I'll go private. Thanks.

[balsaman]

Nope, keep going here..:)

Eric

[AirX]

migkillr,

Keep going it just gets me more stoked on building my own. Just gotta find a place to build it at, the wife wont let me build in the appartment. :)

Eric Barnett

[allmostthere]

Hi, I have read this whole thred and am really tired! lol I am very interested in building a machine from a set of you plans but.... I am trying to build it as cheap as possible. I don't want crap which by the looks of your machines I bet myself I won't be getting crap. LOL They look great! You said in one of the millions of pages you could build a machine for around 200 USD is this realy possible? I went to stepper world and found their copleet package to be the best deal with people saying it works for them but that alone cost 219.00. I need some advice, "some" being an understatement, on wich one of your machines to buy plans for. Remember cheap hardware store type parts. I was looking at the pipe dream and the morph what do you think? I can use any help.

Just remember cheap!

If you don't mond I would like to ask more questions as thet come up, is this ok?

Thanks,
Jason

[allmostthere]

Mabey what ever dean is building above. Just help me pick out a good cheap one.

Jason

[crankorgan]

Jason,
I don't know what to tell you! I have make CNC cheap for the average hobbiest. Sounds like you are on a small budget. You can build a complete CNC system for under $200 using my plans and circuit board. Looking at other people controller is the problem. If you can't wire you own controller, you better have a $400 or more budget.

John

[allmostthere]

Ok, I am looking at using the 3 axis steppworld electronics. The board is ready to go. I just need to know what machine of yours to build. Remember hardware store type that works good.

Thanks,
Jason

[uscra112]

Stick with Cranky, Jason, he's got what you need.

[allmostthere]

Ok, I will use the stepper world electronics with one of crank's machines but which one? I was thinking about the PIPE DREAM or the MORPH. What do you think which one works the best and is the cheapest?

Thanks,
Jason

[crankorgan]

Guys,
Check out the new board at HobbyCNC. If you go with a Stepperworld board get the FET one. The standard board does not run the motors fast enough for my machine. I sell a blank circuit board if you want to roll your own. If you are not good with electronics then go with a premade system.

John

[allmostthere]

Ok, Cranky I will probly go with the stepper wolrd complete 3 axis system. I am good with electronics but I've never wired a board before and I would rather not start here. Which one of your machines do you recomend to me. I was looking at the PIPE DREAM and the MORPH, which one would you recomend for me?

Thanks,

Jason

[crankorgan]

Jason,
Build the machine first. Go with MORPH The Pipe Dream can't be moved after it is calibrated and it takes two people to move it.

John

[AirX]

Hi Cranky and All,

I just looked at the Morph and I will order the plans this week. Been trying to get all my bills paid from the long work layoff and it loks like the end of the tunnel is right near. Thanks for the help.

Eric B.

[allmostthere]

THanks for the help. I can use the stepper world complete system with it right? And can I really find most of the parts at hardware stores like Westlake and Homedepot right?

Thanks,
Jason

[balsaman]

THanks for the help. I can use the stepper world complete system with it right?

Allmostthere,

Do yourself a favor. Dont buy the SPHT system from stepperworld. It's cheaper but it's slow. Buy the FET3 board, or go with the Xylotex board as listen in Johns links page.

I use the FET3 from stepperworld. It works great. Some people I know have the SPHT board and it's very slow.

If you want the complete package from stepperworld, get the SPHT package but pay for the FET3 upgraded board. That way you don't pay for the large motors but still get the faster controller.

Just email Russ at stepperworld and ask for the price. Trust me, you won't be happy with the SPHT.

Eric

[migkillr]

Hey Cranky,

I found a source for free (everybody's favorite 4 letter F-word) 3/16" PVC here locally. You think that'll work for a 1/4" sub? Side benefit is a tour of a big momma CNC routing facility and some contacts for later....new friends are great!

Steppers should be here tomorrow.

Thanks,

Dean

P.S. - I wanted to get on your inner circle, but they sure ask for a lot of information that they can share on that site. Still thinking about it. Just cause your paranoid, don't mean that somebody's not after you.:)

[crankorgan]

Mig,
I can only get 1/8" 1/4" and 1/2" PVC here. I would rather see you use 1/2" PVC instead of 1/4" than go thinner. Someone just cut a neck of a guitar using one of my machines. Join the circle! I will still hang out here.

John

[Joe Petro]

Help!

I have my 7th built, and I am having trouble with the stepper wiring.
I have one of John's Piker boards and Powermax steppers.

I have the motors wired for 6 wire unipolar.
I have the two 12v leads connected, but have no idea how to determine which way to hook up the step and direction.

The paperwork for the motors doesn't say step and direction, they just show a diagram of the motor windings (coils?).

It goes without saying that the stepper motors are smarter than I am, but I'm guessing they are not smarter than some of you...

Thanks in advance,

Joe Petro

[crankorgan]

Joe,
The motor wires hook up to the outputs of the TIP120 transistors. The step and direction signals go into the board via the parallel port. The step and direction pins for the controller have to be entered in the software.

John

[Joe Petro]

Thanks John. That stuff is set.

I didn't make myself clear.
What I need to know is the outputs to the motor (P-1- P-4).
How do I determine which wire of the motor goes to which output of the board.

I tried to guess, but the motor will only step (jog) once in each direction.

Here is a link to the motor wiring:

http://www.pacsci.com/support/documents/stepper/powermaxinstallbulletin.pdf

Thanks,

Joe Petro

[PanzyPoof]

Joe Petro:)
Congrats on finishing your machine.
Now comes teaching it to walk.
Show us the Bundle of Joy:D

[crankorgan]

Joe,
Looking at the PDF in the Connection Information
second diagram from the left..

A-Pin 6 = Phase 1

Common Pins 2-5 = Common

B-Pin 1 = Phase 2


C-Pin 8 = Phase 3

Common Pins 4-7 = Common

D-Pin 3 = Phase 4


A=Ph1 B=Ph2 C=Ph3 D=Ph4

John

[Joe Petro]

That is exactly what I needed!
Thanks John.

Now, When I try to jog, it only moves one step.
One step forward, and one step back.
It won't step more than that.
I tried all sorts of settings in TurboCNC, and I even tried a different computer, with the same results.

Any ideas?

Thanks,

Joe Petro

[crankorgan]

Joe,
Hit the "J" or "K" key to change the amount of jog. Otherwise it only jumps one step. If that don't do it swap P3 with P4.

John

[balsaman]

That will do it. TurboCNC jogs the "jog increment" each time you hit the jog key. By default, the jog increment is something like .0005". By hitting J or k repeatedly, you scroll thru a bunch of different increments, the largest being 5" by default I think. Hit j until it says .5", then hit the jog key. The machine should jog the .5" and stop, until you hit a jog key again. This is supposed to be improved to "hold the key to jog, let go to stop" in version 4, which I hope will be out soon.

Eric

[Joe Petro]

Nope.
When I hit the + or - keys, it moves a fraction, but only once per direction.
If I hit "G", and enter a number (like .500), it moves a teenie bit (it goes "bump").

Switching P3 and P4 only changed the direction of the "bump".

I have come so far...

Help!


Thanks,

Joe Petro

[crankorgan]

Joe,
Double check your Direction and step pins in the software. And where did you get the cable you are using between the computer and the controller. Put some small 12v lightbulbs on the TIP120 outputs. There should always be two on and two off.

John

[PanzyPoof]

Joe Petro:) it moves a teenie bit (it goes "bump"). Well it's got a Pulse!
Ya could be the Computer cable some have the pins different.
Do you have a D-camera A pic could give Cranky the Ahhhhaas!
Soon:)

[balsaman]

If I hit "G", and enter a number (like .500), it moves a teenie bit (it goes "bump").

Enter a big number, like 5. G stands for "go to"

You will get it...don't worry.

Eric

[crankorgan]

Joe,
Select "JOG" Hit the "J" key until the jog distance increases. Than hit the arrow keys. Try more than one axis.

John

[Joe Petro]

I did check the cable. It's pin for pin, with a multimeter.

I will snap a pic of the board and post it here.

Thanks very much for the input, everyone.
I'm sure we will figure it out.

Joe Petro

[migkillr]

Here's my latest. X axis completed (it is X, right?). Anyway...got the steppers in, got the PVC in and got to the point that I can spin the motor and watch the trolley move ....just a liiiiiitttllle bit with each step. Way cool!!! I made a few minor modifications in the hardware that I used, but nothing serious. This is great, and I haven't cut a thing with it yet!!! Got a rotozip rebel on sale for 44 buck reconditioned at harbor freight, too.

I'm thinking of using the electronics setup that Zoltar has on his machine. Pretty slick looking, but I'm open to suggestions on that stuff. Gotta find me some store front channel now.

CU,

Dean

[Joe Petro]

and got to the point that I can spin the motor and watch the trolley move ....just a liiiiiitttllle bit with each step. Way cool!!!



...Sure... Rub it in...


Joe Petro

[migkillr]

Maybe I should clarify.....with my fingers. You're way advanced. Using that new-fangled 'lectricity and all. I'm still building and a loooong way from seeing what you're seeing. Be of good cheer! It'll work!

Dean

[Shockster]

Hey all! Been keeping track of the thread for some time, (since it was only 35 or 40 pages or so.. yeesh guys, this is some heavy posting! :) and thought I'd join in. I made my own plans via 3D Studio, and am now past the X axis, and moving onto the Y/Z axis. I'll post pictures when I can.

While looking through the posts, I see that most designs use aluminum channels for the Y/Z, and being in Canada(different building codes?) I couldn't find any, and had to come up with my own solution. Instead, I bought 2 aluminum U channels, and mounted them counterfacing. of course one of the fundamental problems is getting them completely parallel, but even without a drill press, table saw, or any large wood working equipment(would have loved a jointer) I've managed to keep things square, and the channels parallel. Just a thought for those in Canada that run into the same problem I did, availability.

As soon as I get my hands on my bro's camera, I'll start clicking away, but in the meantime, here's a little render from the 3d version. (It's since been revised, but that's the latest one on hand.)

[crankorgan]

Joe,
Are all four motors are doing the same thing?

John

[PanzyPoof]

Joe Petro migkillr is cheating and using his fingers.



migkillr
Gotta find me some store front channel now.
I found that at a Comercial Glass shop. approx $10 a ft
So I got 4ft
I guess straight alum finish is best over the anodized pretty selection Hmmm?

Shockster:) Wild beast you got there!

[Shockster]

Thank you thank you.. :)

It uses surpluss industrial ballbearing door slides I found at a surplus auto store(go figure). Very stiff. Hoping to order/buy(hopefully some place local has some used motors, at least that's the rumour) the stepper motors by next weekend, may have a completed machine by midweek.

I hear ceremonial routing of the machine's name is a good way to christen these babies. Thinkin' about the name Trinity, for the first nuclear bomb(muahaha). Any suggestions? :)

The MK 2 will have some kind of solution for Y axis that makes use of bearings, since UHMW isn't the easiest stuff to work with, unless you have a table saw and a dado/router. C'est la vie.

And by the way, excellent machines everyone, I can only hope mine comes out as good as yours did.

[migkillr]

Come on, don't leave us hanging...! Everybody report in on progress. Here's my latest, and I get to use my favorite four letter "F" word again. I obtained my store front channel for FREE! Local elections are about to be held and the owner of the glass store is running. He's a real nice guy and he gave me a big enough piece for my whole machine :)

I have to measure and cut, so I may get that done today. Been cleaning and rearranging the shop, hopefully to strip the floor and lay down some nice 2 part epoxy. What's up with you guys? Any new progress on your latest machine Cranky?

CU,

Dean

[crankorgan]

Mig,
This is a slow month for CNC as a hobby. Now that the weather has broken, even I am working outside. The busy months are Sept to April. In June there is a spike of engineering students try to build a machine for their final grade. Most RC guys are out flying.


John

[Shockster]

In due time I'll have some pics up. They're on the camera, but no way to get them out. I'm almost done the Y axis, working out pretty darn well. Electronics I'll have by the weekend, but that may be optimistic. Z axis I'll try to finish, or at least start tomorrow. I think this baby is really gonna work!

Dave

[testflyer]

Originally posted by migkillr
Come on, don't leave us hanging...! Everybody report in on progress. Here's my latest, and I get to use my favorite four letter "F" word again. I obtained my store front channel for FREE! Local elections are about to be held and the owner of the glass store is running. He's a real nice guy and he gave me a big enough piece for my whole machine :)

I have to measure and cut, so I may get that done today. Been cleaning and rearranging the shop, hopefully to strip the floor and lay down some nice 2 part epoxy. What's up with you guys? Any new progress on your latest machine Cranky?

CU,

Dean

Take a look at this thread Here (http://cnczone.com/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=48)

[MrBungle]

Just caught up, thought this thread had died! good to see some activity again :)

Originally posted by PanzyPoof
YA know they use a small needle from a 10cc siringe to pluck it out. You get a blurry view of the Doc needle in hand approaching your
frozen eye, Screaming not a Option. ya gotta stay super still. I was lucky! :eek:

Ewwwww! *shudder*

A mate of mine got a bit of metal in his eye a few years ago(and he WAS wearing safety glasses!), we went to the doc and the doc had a little tool, apparently made specially for this job, it was a tiny hand operated die-grinder like tool, thin like a pencil, with tiny ball-bearings and a tiny die-grinding bit at the tip, the doc gave the shaft that was sticking out the top of the 'pencil' a flick between two of his fingers and the bit was doing 18 million RPM(slight exageration), then he just flicked the bit of metal out with the spinning tip!! Job done, walk away. And the little die-grinder was still revving its little head off.
Very cool.

Simo

[Shockster]

Turns out the stepper motor store was closed when my brother got there last weekend.. so it looks like we'll have to go this weekend to pick them up. Delays delays. Still no camera cable, so no pics yet to come.

Going to go to Ikea in a while, to pick up a new computer desk, woohoo... no more dining table for me. :)

Ta for now... I'll keep the updates coming, when updating applies. :)

Dave

[Slow Riser]

I have just setup my CNC and running through some test cuts with Giles Muller software.

Cuts are fine when I convert Profili .dxf to Profscan .dat.

What I'm trying to do is to cut a "square" trailing edge as I want to hang elevons as this is a flying wing.

Is there software that allows you to do this easily?

I can "draw" in the cut in Profscan but in the Giles Muller software, depending on the chord I select, the trailing edge might be off between the root and tips as the cut is scaled to the chord.

I guess what I'm looking for is software that allows me to scale the airfoil to the proper chord and consistently cut the trailing edge before I create the .dat file. Is there software that allows me to do this easily?

Thanks...Henry

[crankorgan]

Slow Riser,
Try the Foam Cutting conference with your question. CNC uses a different file type.


John

[Slow Riser]

John,
Did a search for the foam cutting conference and didn't find anything.

Are you referring to the CNC Zone?

Thanks...Henry

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by Slow Riser
John,
Did a search for the foam cutting conference and didn't find anything.

Are you referring to the CNC Zone?

Thanks...Henry

Like I said! Ask your question over at one of the foam cutting conference. (foamies) Here we use GCode files. CNC and foam cutting have simularities but use different software.


John

[DICKEYBIRD]

Here you go! Yahoo CNC Foamcutters http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CNCFoamcutters/ Good group of guys...I lurk around over there and help occasionally with airfoils and stuff. I hope to build one someday.

[crankorgan]

Originally posted by DICKEYBIRD
Here you go! Yahoo CNC Foamcutters http://groups.yahoo.com/group/CNCFoamcutters/ Good group of guys...I lurk around over there and help occasionally with airfoils and stuff. I hope to build one someday.

Thanks Dickey Bird! I thought I saw some foam cutters here at the RCGroups. Might have been a link I clicked on.


John

[Slow Riser]

Thanks for the link Dickeybird.

Crankorgan,
I apologize for posting my question on this forum. I didn't realize this forum was for the exclusivity of GCoders only.

I'm learning! ;)

Apologies to all.

Cheers...Henry

[balsaman]

We will let it go........this time. :) :) :) :)

Cheers.

Eric

[crankorgan]

Slow Riser,
I was trying to make sure you found the right place to place your question and get an answer!

John

[migkillr]

Here's my latest. Still have to mount the gibs before the bed is on the rail permanent and then have to cut the leadscrew to size. My floating nut is a little different, but works like a champ with no play. One more axis to go!!! Work really puts a cramp in my hobby.

Dean

[Shockster]

Woohoo, got the camera cable and all, so here goes.