New Patrol Pics Part 2

[JIMJAM]

Periscope depth. An onboard gyro senses changes in pitch and helps keep the boat level.

[JIMJAM]

2

[JIMJAM]

Back after a hour and thirty minute run. Maximum depth on this run was around 5 feet with descent visabilty but limited depth but in the main channel.

[JIMJAM]

Dry docked with some decorations.

[cathode]

This stuff is simply amazing. I love you photos and posts!

[JIMJAM]

Thanks. In my 20 years of playing with everything from cars,planes,boats,rockets and helis, submarines have been my latest and sometimes most challenging. Making a model fly was a real thrill,making it hover even better, but making it dissapear underneath the water and being able to bring it back has been really satisfying. I mean arranging a bunch of expensive electronics in a tube,sinking them in water and bringing them back has to be a rcers final frontier. Im just surprised more submariners have not taken the opportunity to post their pics here. The only Big rc submarine site has ZERO instant picture post and most of them are years old and never updated. Anyway, I have a camera and will take pics and post as long as someone out there wants to see them. JiM

[cathode]

Thansk a ton, I'll always pop in here to see your stuff!

[Hammer Head]

Great scale sub. Enjoy your pics.

Video on a sub really interests me. Live feedback on where you are...search and rescue;)

Has this been done?

Could the graupner shark be converted?

Is the Shark any good?

HH

[JIMJAM]

I have never heard anything good about the Shark.Tricky to build,very limited room inside and its a dynamic diver. Which means you have force it under by forward speed. For a camera platform it wouldnt cut it. I know very little about video. I think in order to have live transmission you have to always have the antenna above water. There are small enough cameras out there and its being done but you would first need to gain experience with r/c submarines and then custom build your platform. The rest would simply take alot of time and money. Good luck. Nothing but beer cans and your assorted bass and brim to see where I run.

[Hammer Head]

Much appreciated.

HH:)

[Hammer Head]

How long have you been sub RCing?

Was your first sub an ARF or scratch built?

Are there any good RC sub ARFS ?

Any subs that are not dynamic divers but ballast?

You have awsome scratch builed talents JIMJAM. That is a beautiful ship you have built.

HH




:)

[PanzyPoof]

I'm betting that a 32nd parallel Type 7 hull!
Mine is little dusty been benched for about 10 years, Ah maybe one Day again. Or I'll Sell it.

[JIMJAM]

I did not build this one but only hope to have the skills and patience to. The builder has built a few and is a real master. It took him just under a year to complete it. Yes, the hull is a 32P. The deck is custom brass and the wintergarden and tower is all scratch for the most part. The building process was all photo documented and all I can say is that it would defintley take someone with a great deal of modeling experience. She looks great and most would be happy with just a static model like this but she also is built to run. Compared to my other small subs, I can say that at 7 feet, the boat operates very scale like and handles wonderfully. My first r/c sub was one of the Nikkos. I repainted them to get rid of the toy look and had a blast running them in my pool. As far as a begginners sub kit, I would reccomend the Albacore from Subtech at rcboats.com. It uses a pump system to add and take water out the ballast tank. I prefer carrying my own onboard supply of air but the sub has proven to be very reliable and fun. One things for sure, r/c subs are not inexpensive.

[PanzyPoof]

Well she's a Beauty!
mine has a inlaid strip deck and punched for venting. was a model puzzle it self.
Conning tower is mostly scratch build.
power is a single Pittman motor geared into twin screws. I sliced her down the waterline as you have only way to get inside.
Have had many runs with her and with a few days at it she could sail again.
Took it into open water once Lake Ontario.
Waves slightchop rollers 4-6' a Canoe no Go.
And it was a sight.
Running surface. Like when they meet mid Atlantic in Das Boot. Played out there for 40min then cruised back into marina. What a Blast.
Also did a scuda trip with her to about 10' to sandy bottom. Relayed hand commands and she was a sight.
Enjoy
Denis

[Hammer Head]

Thanks for the info on a starter sub JIMJAM.

I will check the web site out more but I have sticker shock at the moment.

Sure does look an expensive endevour, however live vid sub feed would be so cool.

I may have to wait until Tiny Tim gets his operation before I can even think about a sub project;) I crack me up!:D

Mr. Poof that is one sweet sub!:)

Happy sailing all!

HH

[cathode]

wow, that thing looks very authentic. it's aged naturally i assume? (10 years on the bench)

[U-96]

Hi guy's
Here are some shot's of my 32p in progress. I will be installing the prop shafts today which is a job i have put off for too long as it is probably the hardest part of building these huge boat.s. Once this has been done it will just be a paint job and weather detail and she will be ready for tank testing. The hull is 32p and the rest is scratch built.
Regards Keith

[U-96]

This is the 88mm deck gun which was scratch built from brass resin and wood

[U-96]

Here she is on the bench.

[U-96]

This one gives you an idea of the size. Jim Jam can vouch for this.

[Hammer Head]

...wow, monster cool.

That is a real work of art.

Great pics.

HH :)

[PanzyPoof]

Whow that 88 is prime:mad: Say ya didn't make a secound with a few flaws Eh?

Thought I'd share my memories/comments on shafts etc. This goes back to when there was a 32P.
Say How did you get the U soo many years later?

I'll post a few pics. Hope ya don't mind?
Props; Scale look nice on a bench get'em and keep them for the display. Period! They suck on the water. Get some racing props! I used Groupner X55.
I went with a single motor Pittman. It's counter rotating, home mad gearbox forget ratio~2.5;1??
She got good scale+ speed and can stop for the Ducks. Also single motor=single breach of the
W/T hull. And on a boat this long and narrow independent motor controle is nill. Tried it.
Go with a single balast tank. Forw and aft Per Plans are a pain to control:mad:
Here the first one Basic layout,

[PanzyPoof]

I did the W/T tank from clear plexi tube and machined end caps with O ring seals.
All componets are mounted on a shelf mounted to end cap. So it all slides in as one unit.
All seals/controls exit this cap.
I bet this 3/8" wall puppy will dive to scarry depths before crushing:D or the O rings are bypassed. Hmmmm:rolleyes:

[PanzyPoof]

This shows the rudder reverser and cross over to staggered rudder shafts. It was a tight to get rudder horns to fit so I staggared them.
Aft dive plane shaft is a long Allen key cut to size.
The torque/control horn has a keyway cut to pass the allen key. Paddles are brass plates soft/solder at the edges and rest on the flats of Allen key Only way I could think and works good. Allen Key was the key here;)

[PanzyPoof]

Best to build a Jig here.
Bring the shafts back and line up with Dive plane shaft. Trim and fit Right and Left Skeg to
Main shaft bushings. Protect hull from heat/flame.

Silver solder area 1
Now Heat sink Skegs and the solder area 1 as best as possible.
Line up/jig prop gards.
Silver Solder Guards area 2 to shaft bushings.
Last Silver Solder
Tube for Allen Key Shaft support to prop guard area 3.
Key is Silver Solder. I have a Mirco Flame 2 gas torch for this and it was Poor but worked.
Area 4 is a no brainer done last:D

[PanzyPoof]

Last view!
Glad it You this time :cool:

[PanzyPoof]

Just In case I came across in a Blur,
Hope this Explains it better.
The Area of the hull/keel here the torque horn for the aft Dive plane is located can be cut away and replace with a brass lower unit. Like a belly Pan.
And epoxy it in place. Will give ya more room and more solid fix point.
O ya I did not affix allen key it's free passing for service. Dive planes are lightly glued to key to hold position. One punch and key is free.
O ya #2 allow room for prop change.

[U-96]

Thanks for the nice comments and very helpfull info. I can see you know just what I was talking about when I said I had left this until last. I have already built the WTC and it has two Pitman motors driving it. The shaft exits are bearing mounted With a wiper seal as you can see in the photo. I have been working on and off the boat for three or so years now, so I have had it for some time. Like a lot of people, I got ripped off badly by 32p as the company must have been in trouble when I ordered it. As this was my first sub and new nothing about them, I ordered the package deal and all I received was the hull and the batteries with a plan. No conning tower,guns,control surfaces and details where all missing but I guess thats the risk you take. I thank my lucky stars that I received the hull. Any how, enough winging!
I have pre fabricated the parts for the stern assembly as shown.
I am open to any other hints people have as you can never know too much about a subject.
Thanks again Keith

[U-96]

These are the bearing mounts in the end cap with the wiper seals on the other side.

[U-96]

These are the drive shaft seals

[U-96]

This is the motor assembly as it looks in the WTC.

[U-96]

The WTC. The larger one is the rear electronics bay and the small one is the forward bay housing three servos.1 for blow and vent valve operation. 1 for bow planes and 1 for torpedo launch.

[U-96]

Here you can see how all the WTC's sit in the boat. The middle one is the ballast tank.

[PanzyPoof]

U-96
Real Nice Work:D
ALot has changed in the Sub Dept since
the 32P days. Sorry to hear you were one of the many that got ripped off. Main thing is you got the Hull :)

I had trouble lining up shafts.
Looks like you have ample amps and Motor power on board. Direct drive is nice.
Soon will be test tank time.
Again glad it's you ;)
Problem was to gain a high water line.
Sinking is a no brainer.
Ontario Hobby show in a few weeks so will see what the few have built since.
Indoor pond so it's play time. Too small for these puppies. But there's a few in smaller scale running around. A type II I have my eye on is way sweet:cool:

Sorry to be rambling on in you're Thread!!!
Just you've brought back so many memories and got me thinking. Hmmmm;) But I got too much on my Hobby Plate at this time.
PBY-2 Catalina,,and a 1/96 DDG-51. And my Steen SkyBolt in Garage!!
Keep Posting Pics:D

[JIMJAM]

U-96 The drive shaft seals work good but for extra protection add some flexible boots. During my extended testing, the only place water was entering the WTC was though the pushrod seals. When they moved in and out, a very small but noticable after time amount of water was entering. I CAed some boots on any pushrod that exited the WTC and have 100% eliminated water.

[Al P]

Sorry for the late post, but I would like to see more of your sub photos ! :)

Al, who so-far has only planes.

[U-96]

Jim Jam
It is only the prop shafts that have the lip seals. The pushrods have the flexible boots on them. It is nice to here they don't leak though. I will post more photo's soon.

[JIMJAM]

My latest idea for mine is to have a movable weight to change the CG while in operation. My boat has a forward WTC with a unused servo/pushrod. The lead weight in the keel fits perfectly and is a flat lead bar. I figure just run a rod and attach it to the weight. A frw/back movement on a control will slide the weight back and forth. I figure Ill get at least 2 inches of movement. At neatral bouyancy, it takes very little change in CG to drastcally alter the boats level. You will find this out soon enough. Another gizmo I have is a sound board and speaker that sounds the AAooo Gaaa alarm when I push the stick forward. Sounds cheesy but its really neat!!!

[U-96]

G'day Jim Jam
Where do you mount the speakers. Are they in the dry area or do they get wet.
Keith

[JIMJAM]

The speaker is a small 2 inch robbed out of a small kids radio. I simply put in inside the conning tower. There are alot of waterproof speakers out there that can be found but I just slid mine inside a balloon, tie wrapped it closed and added some Goop just for good measure. The balloon muffled the sound a little but its still quite loud. I do not know the long term effects of this setup but the speaker was free and I can always replace it easily. Another cool sound effect is the diesal motor which changes pitch according to speed.

[PanzyPoof]

Ya I ran the Diesal motor unit! Speaker in the open. lasted a season then replace. Worked good!

[sinkinpat]

here is my former skipjack. I made my WTC myself also . I used a subtech belt drive and their seals to. but built all the rest my self. it used a propel ballast. I sold it to get my WWII jeep

[sinkinpat]

another shot

[sinkinpat]

another

[sinkinpat]

my trade up. someday I will build another sub. but my skipjack was to big. and I had alot of stress when I lost it 1 week before I was supost to ship it out to the new owner. Now I would like to make a micro rov. like the ones on some german sites with white led" for lights and mini camera. turned out when I lost my skipjack. it eventually floated back to the surface but only 1/4 inch of the sail was above the water. 2 days later I found it floating amongst a bunch of twigs. I got lucky I was the only one that found it. when a diver was out there looking he couldn't find it. he was looking in the muck not up in the twigs. ha funny how things work out.

[james1787]

Hi there,
I was just looking through this thread and all I can say is WOW! I never knew R/C subs that big exist! I have seen and used the Nikko "Toy" subs before, but never have I seen these. Are these all scratch built? Or are they offered as kits? Just curious... thanks!

James Kern