soldering irons [Archive]

ian

Nov 02, 2006, 07:11 PM

"Marc Heusser" <marc.heusser@CHEERSheusser.comMERCIALspammers.inva lid> wrote
in message news:marc.heusser-E32D32.23193302112006@news.unizh.ch...
: In article <15t2h.21221$76.310@newsfe5-win.ntli.net>,
: "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote:
:
: > want to know a good brand of cordless soldering iron. I've seen alot of
gas
: > ones used at my club. Don't know what makes a good one or a bad one.
I've
: > got small electric ones but i've been told i need a big one for
soldering
: > batteries together. Using a small one takes too long and you end up
heating
: > up the cells as well as the solder. 60-70watts required.
:
: Get a solder station where you can regulate the temperature.
:
: But for your purpose I'd recommend to get welded, shrunk-tube battery
: packs anyway.
:
: HTH
:
: Marc
:
: --
: Switzerland/Europe
: <http://www.heusser.com>
: remove CHEERS and from MERCIAL to get valid e-mail

a normal stick pack battery has a nasty habit of falling out. Both my
chassis are designed for racing cells with the compartment and clamp moulded
that way. I am actually remaking the stick packs cos i don't believe
individual cells needed to make your own pack are worth more than twice the
price.

Dre

Nov 02, 2006, 07:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:efu2h.6$_l1.3@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>
> "Marc Heusser" <marc.heusser@CHEERSheusser.comMERCIALspammers.inva lid>
> wrote
> in message news:marc.heusser-E32D32.23193302112006@news.unizh.ch...
> : In article <15t2h.21221$76.310@newsfe5-win.ntli.net>,
> : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> :
> : > want to know a good brand of cordless soldering iron. I've seen alot
> of
> gas
> : > ones used at my club. Don't know what makes a good one or a bad one.
> I've
> : > got small electric ones but i've been told i need a big one for
> soldering
> : > batteries together. Using a small one takes too long and you end up
> heating
> : > up the cells as well as the solder. 60-70watts required.
> :
> : Get a solder station where you can regulate the temperature.
> :
> : But for your purpose I'd recommend to get welded, shrunk-tube battery
> : packs anyway.
> :
> : HTH
> :
> : Marc
> :
> : --
> : Switzerland/Europe
> : <http://www.heusser.com>
> : remove CHEERS and from MERCIAL to get valid e-mail
>
> a normal stick pack battery has a nasty habit of falling out. Both my
> chassis are designed for racing cells with the compartment and clamp
> moulded
> that way. I am actually remaking the stick packs cos i don't believe
> individual cells needed to make your own pack are worth more than twice
> the
> price.
>
Well that totally depends on the cell your talking about. I'm quite happy
to spend 120AUS on a set of loose cells *if* they are closely matched.
Packs with matched cells SNOT on normal off the shelf packs. Plus when you
make your own cells you can use really fat battery bars and thick wire which
all help the performance of the pack.

I pretty much dont buy premade packs anymore, I prefer to spend more on
loose cells (matched of course :) and build my own (allthough I had to get
some for the Zilla as it has moulded battery housings, the maxx has
ladders). I have yet to find an off the shelf pre-made pack that can keep
up!

Cheers Dre

ian

Nov 03, 2006, 07:11 AM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:454a7efa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: > a normal stick pack battery has a nasty habit of falling out. Both my
: > chassis are designed for racing cells with the compartment and clamp
: > moulded
: > that way. I am actually remaking the stick packs cos i don't believe
: > individual cells needed to make your own pack are worth more than twice
: > the
: > price.
: >
: Well that totally depends on the cell your talking about. I'm quite happy
: to spend 120AUS on a set of loose cells *if* they are closely matched.
: Packs with matched cells SNOT on normal off the shelf packs. Plus when
you
: make your own cells you can use really fat battery bars and thick wire
which
: all help the performance of the pack.
:
: I pretty much dont buy premade packs anymore, I prefer to spend more on
: loose cells (matched of course :) and build my own (allthough I had to get
: some for the Zilla as it has moulded battery housings, the maxx has
: ladders). I have yet to find an off the shelf pre-made pack that can keep
: up!
:
: Cheers Dre

like i said. an off the shelf premade pack is half the price. Then buy the
bars and wire. Doing that at the moment. As for matched cells, they are
only matched for one race. After that its down to the charger and your
discharge equipment.

olmod

Nov 03, 2006, 07:29 AM

The only one i know of is getting quite scarce and they take a bit of getting used to,they made two different models one with inbuilt battery and one with long good quality leads to be connected to a car battery,made by scope industries wich i think is now defunct but spares are available from witronics research p/l ps i still run mine occaisonally they can do big boy jobs :)

Dre

Nov 05, 2006, 07:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:B8G2h.3$GX2.0@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:454a7efa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> : > a normal stick pack battery has a nasty habit of falling out. Both my
> : > chassis are designed for racing cells with the compartment and clamp
> : > moulded
> : > that way. I am actually remaking the stick packs cos i don't believe
> : > individual cells needed to make your own pack are worth more than
> twice
> : > the
> : > price.
> : >
> : Well that totally depends on the cell your talking about. I'm quite
> happy
> : to spend 120AUS on a set of loose cells *if* they are closely matched.
> : Packs with matched cells SNOT on normal off the shelf packs. Plus when
> you
> : make your own cells you can use really fat battery bars and thick wire
> which
> : all help the performance of the pack.
> :
> : I pretty much dont buy premade packs anymore, I prefer to spend more on
> : loose cells (matched of course :) and build my own (allthough I had to
> get
> : some for the Zilla as it has moulded battery housings, the maxx has
> : ladders). I have yet to find an off the shelf pre-made pack that can
> keep
> : up!
> :
> : Cheers Dre
>
> like i said. an off the shelf premade pack is half the price. Then buy
> the
> bars and wire. Doing that at the moment. As for matched cells, they are
> only matched for one race. After that its down to the charger and your
> discharge equipment.
>
>
This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no matter
how many races you run. Normal packs can have one or 2 cells that aren't as
good as the others. In these packs the whole pack is as good as their worse
cell. Matched packs have cells with are individually matched to each other.
This means the entire pack is made up of cells very close to each other, in
other words, it makes the pack very very efficient (worst cell is very close
to best cell performance). This is what gives them the edge, and the edge
for much more than one race!

Cheers Dre

ian

Nov 05, 2006, 07:11 PM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:454e62f2$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
: This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no matter
: how many races you run. Normal packs can have one or 2 cells that aren't
as
: good as the others. In these packs the whole pack is as good as their
worse
: cell. Matched packs have cells with are individually matched to each
other.
: This means the entire pack is made up of cells very close to each other,
in
: other words, it makes the pack very very efficient (worst cell is very
close
: to best cell performance). This is what gives them the edge, and the edge
: for much more than one race!
:
: Cheers Dre

thanks mate. So basically the quality control is much better. I suppose
with the right equipment you could match your own if you buy more than 2
sets of identical rating batteries. I've been very happy with the vapex
tech. They usually last longer than the race, and i can't handle the car
when its going full pelt anyway. Probably more of an issue for drivers
running modifed and at the top level.

Dre

Nov 05, 2006, 07:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:jgu3h.2543$TH3.241@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:454e62f2$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> : This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no
> matter
> : how many races you run. Normal packs can have one or 2 cells that
> aren't
> as
> : good as the others. In these packs the whole pack is as good as their
> worse
> : cell. Matched packs have cells with are individually matched to each
> other.
> : This means the entire pack is made up of cells very close to each other,
> in
> : other words, it makes the pack very very efficient (worst cell is very
> close
> : to best cell performance). This is what gives them the edge, and the
> edge
> : for much more than one race!
> :
> : Cheers Dre
>
> thanks mate. So basically the quality control is much better. I suppose
> with the right equipment you could match your own if you buy more than 2
> sets of identical rating batteries. I've been very happy with the vapex
> tech. They usually last longer than the race, and i can't handle the car
> when its going full pelt anyway. Probably more of an issue for drivers
> running modifed and at the top level.
>
>
You could, but you would probably have to buy more than 2 packs to get
enough cells to choose from, yes they are that different. I doubt you could
get 6 cells closely matched cells out of 2 packs that are anywhere near as
close as proper matched cells. You could buy 6 packs, split them all up and
rebuild all the cells into 6 new packs and still not have as good a battery
as a proper matched set.

Cheers Dre

ian

Nov 05, 2006, 09:11 PM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:454e79ed$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
: news:jgu3h.2543$TH3.241@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
: >
: > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
: > news:454e62f2$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: > : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
: > : This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no
: > matter
: > : how many races you run. Normal packs can have one or 2 cells that
: > aren't
: > as
: > : good as the others. In these packs the whole pack is as good as their
: > worse
: > : cell. Matched packs have cells with are individually matched to each
: > other.
: > : This means the entire pack is made up of cells very close to each
other,
: > in
: > : other words, it makes the pack very very efficient (worst cell is very
: > close
: > : to best cell performance). This is what gives them the edge, and the
: > edge
: > : for much more than one race!
: > :
: > : Cheers Dre
: >
: > thanks mate. So basically the quality control is much better. I
suppose
: > with the right equipment you could match your own if you buy more than 2
: > sets of identical rating batteries. I've been very happy with the vapex
: > tech. They usually last longer than the race, and i can't handle the
car
: > when its going full pelt anyway. Probably more of an issue for drivers
: > running modifed and at the top level.
: >
: >
: You could, but you would probably have to buy more than 2 packs to get
: enough cells to choose from, yes they are that different. I doubt you
could
: get 6 cells closely matched cells out of 2 packs that are anywhere near as
: close as proper matched cells. You could buy 6 packs, split them all up
and
: rebuild all the cells into 6 new packs and still not have as good a
battery
: as a proper matched set.
:
: Cheers Dre

hmm more of an issue when i get better and more competitive. my ezilla
would probably liked matched packs too. Battery bars and better wire will
help my stick packs. oh and swapping tamiya for deans connectors.

Dre

Nov 06, 2006, 03:11 AM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Aew3h.5429$yz3.3063@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:454e79ed$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> : news:jgu3h.2543$TH3.241@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
> : >
> : > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> : > news:454e62f2$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> : > : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> : > : This isn't completely correct. Matched cells are matched cells no
> : > matter
> : > : how many races you run. Normal packs can have one or 2 cells that
> : > aren't
> : > as
> : > : good as the others. In these packs the whole pack is as good as
> their
> : > worse
> : > : cell. Matched packs have cells with are individually matched to
> each
> : > other.
> : > : This means the entire pack is made up of cells very close to each
> other,
> : > in
> : > : other words, it makes the pack very very efficient (worst cell is
> very
> : > close
> : > : to best cell performance). This is what gives them the edge, and
> the
> : > edge
> : > : for much more than one race!
> : > :
> : > : Cheers Dre
> : >
> : > thanks mate. So basically the quality control is much better. I
> suppose
> : > with the right equipment you could match your own if you buy more than
> 2
> : > sets of identical rating batteries. I've been very happy with the
> vapex
> : > tech. They usually last longer than the race, and i can't handle the
> car
> : > when its going full pelt anyway. Probably more of an issue for
> drivers
> : > running modifed and at the top level.
> : >
> : >
> : You could, but you would probably have to buy more than 2 packs to get
> : enough cells to choose from, yes they are that different. I doubt you
> could
> : get 6 cells closely matched cells out of 2 packs that are anywhere near
> as
> : close as proper matched cells. You could buy 6 packs, split them all up
> and
> : rebuild all the cells into 6 new packs and still not have as good a
> battery
> : as a proper matched set.
> :
> : Cheers Dre
>
> hmm more of an issue when i get better and more competitive. my ezilla
> would probably liked matched packs too. Battery bars and better wire will
> help my stick packs. oh and swapping tamiya for deans connectors.
>
>
Yep totally agree, wider/thicker battery bars (the ones I use are 1mm
thick!), thicker wire (Deans wet noodle for example) and Deans plugs also
give great improvements and I dont run anything less :)

Those big electric trucks (E-zilla and E-maxx) like the biggest baddest
packs you can throw at them :)

The first thing I did when I got my Zilla (before I even drove it in fact)
was to change the bullet plugs on the motors and the tamiya plugs on the
batteries over to Deans. Oh and to give you an idea what I run in mine, the
Zilla gets 3300mah matched packs. Of these I have 2 *labelled* pairs, 1 and
2 run together, 3 and 4 run together, if I run either odd numbers or even
numbers I notice a big drop in runtime and initial punch, 1 and 2 are the
better packs and all 4 use matched cells!

The Maxx has 3000mah matched packs, same deal with the numbering and same
deal with the performance. Thats the kind of variance you get and I use
expensive matched cells!

Cheers Dre

ian

Nov 06, 2006, 07:11 AM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:454eb432$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: > hmm more of an issue when i get better and more competitive. my ezilla
: > would probably liked matched packs too. Battery bars and better wire
will
: > help my stick packs. oh and swapping tamiya for deans connectors.
: >
: >
: Yep totally agree, wider/thicker battery bars (the ones I use are 1mm
: thick!), thicker wire (Deans wet noodle for example) and Deans plugs also
: give great improvements and I dont run anything less :)
:
: Those big electric trucks (E-zilla and E-maxx) like the biggest baddest
: packs you can throw at them :)
:
: The first thing I did when I got my Zilla (before I even drove it in fact)
: was to change the bullet plugs on the motors and the tamiya plugs on the
: batteries over to Deans. Oh and to give you an idea what I run in mine,
the
: Zilla gets 3300mah matched packs. Of these I have 2 *labelled* pairs, 1
and
: 2 run together, 3 and 4 run together, if I run either odd numbers or even
: numbers I notice a big drop in runtime and initial punch, 1 and 2 are the
: better packs and all 4 use matched cells!
:
: The Maxx has 3000mah matched packs, same deal with the numbering and same
: deal with the performance. Thats the kind of variance you get and I use
: expensive matched cells!
:
: Cheers Dre

yikes. I do 1/10 touring seriously but only pratt about with my zilla. Do
you monster truck race or something?

Dre

Nov 06, 2006, 07:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:frF3h.7053$GX2.5124@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:454eb432$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> : > hmm more of an issue when i get better and more competitive. my
> ezilla
> : > would probably liked matched packs too. Battery bars and better wire
> will
> : > help my stick packs. oh and swapping tamiya for deans connectors.
> : >
> : >
> : Yep totally agree, wider/thicker battery bars (the ones I use are 1mm
> : thick!), thicker wire (Deans wet noodle for example) and Deans plugs
> also
> : give great improvements and I dont run anything less :)
> :
> : Those big electric trucks (E-zilla and E-maxx) like the biggest baddest
> : packs you can throw at them :)
> :
> : The first thing I did when I got my Zilla (before I even drove it in
> fact)
> : was to change the bullet plugs on the motors and the tamiya plugs on the
> : batteries over to Deans. Oh and to give you an idea what I run in mine,
> the
> : Zilla gets 3300mah matched packs. Of these I have 2 *labelled* pairs, 1
> and
> : 2 run together, 3 and 4 run together, if I run either odd numbers or
> even
> : numbers I notice a big drop in runtime and initial punch, 1 and 2 are
> the
> : better packs and all 4 use matched cells!
> :
> : The Maxx has 3000mah matched packs, same deal with the numbering and
> same
> : deal with the performance. Thats the kind of variance you get and I use
> : expensive matched cells!
> :
> : Cheers Dre
>
> yikes. I do 1/10 touring seriously but only pratt about with my zilla.
> Do
> you monster truck race or something?
>
>
Nope, I wish there were truck races around here (Tassie). If there were I'd
be there in a second :)

I used to race 1/10 scale touring nitro and electric, I guess somethings
dont rub off :)

I just bash around, but I love fiddling around with them and I've been
involved with batteries for a long time. I hate seeing big ineffiencies in
those trucks like the battery and motor plugs and like to fix. Every single
time I see an improvement and that makes it all worthwhile.

Half the fun for me is driving, the other half is pulling things apart and
either repairing or upgrading, hehehehe

Cheers Dre

ian

Nov 07, 2006, 07:11 AM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:454fb92d$1@patrick.nettas.net...
:: > : Cheers Dre
: >
: > yikes. I do 1/10 touring seriously but only pratt about with my zilla.
: > Do
: > you monster truck race or something?
: >
: >
: Nope, I wish there were truck races around here (Tassie). If there were
I'd
: be there in a second :)
:
: I used to race 1/10 scale touring nitro and electric, I guess somethings
: dont rub off :)
:
: I just bash around, but I love fiddling around with them and I've been
: involved with batteries for a long time. I hate seeing big ineffiencies
in
: those trucks like the battery and motor plugs and like to fix. Every
single
: time I see an improvement and that makes it all worthwhile.
:
: Half the fun for me is driving, the other half is pulling things apart and
: either repairing or upgrading, hehehehe
:
: Cheers Dre

I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something that
looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't even do
that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every race.

Dre

Nov 07, 2006, 07:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:zf_3h.5406$hK2.1060@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:454fb92d$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> :: > : Cheers Dre
> : >
> : > yikes. I do 1/10 touring seriously but only pratt about with my
> zilla.
> : > Do
> : > you monster truck race or something?
> : >
> : >
> : Nope, I wish there were truck races around here (Tassie). If there were
> I'd
> : be there in a second :)
> :
> : I used to race 1/10 scale touring nitro and electric, I guess somethings
> : dont rub off :)
> :
> : I just bash around, but I love fiddling around with them and I've been
> : involved with batteries for a long time. I hate seeing big ineffiencies
> in
> : those trucks like the battery and motor plugs and like to fix. Every
> single
> : time I see an improvement and that makes it all worthwhile.
> :
> : Half the fun for me is driving, the other half is pulling things apart
> and
> : either repairing or upgrading, hehehehe
> :
> : Cheers Dre
>
> I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something that
> looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't even do
> that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every race.
>
>
Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used Deans ultras
when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis plugs too.
I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every single race (if
he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the end connected
to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out! Because of that
reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back...

LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :)

Cheers Dre

ian

Nov 07, 2006, 07:11 PM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:45510afa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something that
: > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't even
do
: > that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every race.
: >
: >
: Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used Deans ultras
: when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis plugs too.
: I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every single race
(if
: he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the end
connected
: to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out! Because of that
: reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back...
:
: LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :)
:
: Cheers Dre

The attitude of the club was that correllis (yes the tube things) were
superior to deans. Deans were for novices. I've also attempted my first
bit of soldering. I had to get my dad to help cos i need at least 3 hands.

1 hold iron,

2 hold dean connector,

3 hold wire to connector

4th hand feed solder. I 'tinned' the wire and the connector but when it
comes to holding one to the other i tried the push down hard with iron
approach. revolting result but quite firm.

Dad tried and it is the light press the wire to the connector (which i hold)
then when one face of each has a dry joint then push iron between too and
get me to push solder in. 1 hour later, 2 deans connector finally soldered.
after unsoldering to slip on heat shrink wrap of course :) Considering how
rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya connection
probably does a better job at the moment.

Dre

Nov 07, 2006, 07:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:jo84h.15968$r4.12928@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:45510afa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something
> that
> : > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't
> even
> do
> : > that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every race.
> : >
> : >
> : Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used Deans
> ultras
> : when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis plugs
> too.
> : I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every single race
> (if
> : he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the end
> connected
> : to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out! Because of
> that
> : reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back...
> :
> : LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :)
> :
> : Cheers Dre
>
> The attitude of the club was that correllis (yes the tube things) were
> superior to deans. Deans were for novices. I've also attempted my first
> bit of soldering. I had to get my dad to help cos i need at least 3
> hands.
>
> 1 hold iron,
>
> 2 hold dean connector,
>
> 3 hold wire to connector
>
> 4th hand feed solder. I 'tinned' the wire and the connector but when it
> comes to holding one to the other i tried the push down hard with iron
> approach. revolting result but quite firm.
>
> Dad tried and it is the light press the wire to the connector (which i
> hold)
> then when one face of each has a dry joint then push iron between too and
> get me to push solder in. 1 hour later, 2 deans connector finally
> soldered.
> after unsoldering to slip on heat shrink wrap of course :) Considering
> how
> rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya connection
> probably does a better job at the moment.
>

Same at my club, but in my case I couldn't find any noticable improvement.
There was however between Tamyia and Deans.

Deans can take a bit of practise to get right, but once you get the hang of
it its easy. I have no problem soldering up a pair of Deans plugs in a
couple of minutes, but then I have done an absolute bucket load of soldering
over the years :)

First off you have to use a big tip in the iron, second you have to have a
hot iron and one that doesn't cool down when you do big solder work.

I tin the wire so that you cannot see any strands left, then tin the contact
on the plug. Then put a nice blob of solder on the tip. I then put the
wire onto the contact, then push it all together with the tip of the iron.
You hold the iron on as long as it takes for the solder on the wire, the
solder on the contact and the solder on the tip to all melt together and
flow into all the gaps. Take heat away without disturbing the wire and hold
until cool. Then put the heatshrink on.

Cheers Dre

ian

Nov 07, 2006, 07:11 PM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4551196f$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
: news:jo84h.15968$r4.12928@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
: >
: > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
: > news:45510afa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use something
: > that
: > : > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't
: > even
: > do
: > : > that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every
race.
: > : >
: > : >
: > : Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used Deans
: > ultras
: > : when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis plugs
: > too.
: > : I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every single
race
: > (if
: > : he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the end
: > connected
: > : to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out! Because of
: > that
: > : reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back...
: > :
: > : LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :)
: > :
: > : Cheers Dre
: >
: > The attitude of the club was that correllis (yes the tube things) were
: > superior to deans. Deans were for novices. I've also attempted my
first
: > bit of soldering. I had to get my dad to help cos i need at least 3
: > hands.
: >
: > 1 hold iron,
: >
: > 2 hold dean connector,
: >
: > 3 hold wire to connector
: >
: > 4th hand feed solder. I 'tinned' the wire and the connector but when it
: > comes to holding one to the other i tried the push down hard with iron
: > approach. revolting result but quite firm.
: >
: > Dad tried and it is the light press the wire to the connector (which i
: > hold)
: > then when one face of each has a dry joint then push iron between too
and
: > get me to push solder in. 1 hour later, 2 deans connector finally
: > soldered.
: > after unsoldering to slip on heat shrink wrap of course :) Considering
: > how
: > rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya connection
: > probably does a better job at the moment.
: >
:
: Same at my club, but in my case I couldn't find any noticable improvement.
: There was however between Tamyia and Deans.
:
: Deans can take a bit of practise to get right, but once you get the hang
of
: it its easy. I have no problem soldering up a pair of Deans plugs in a
: couple of minutes, but then I have done an absolute bucket load of
soldering
: over the years :)
:
: First off you have to use a big tip in the iron, second you have to have a
: hot iron and one that doesn't cool down when you do big solder work.
:
: I tin the wire so that you cannot see any strands left, then tin the
contact
: on the plug. Then put a nice blob of solder on the tip. I then put the
: wire onto the contact, then push it all together with the tip of the iron.
: You hold the iron on as long as it takes for the solder on the wire, the
: solder on the contact and the solder on the tip to all melt together and
: flow into all the gaps. Take heat away without disturbing the wire and
hold
: until cool. Then put the heatshrink on.
:
: Cheers Dre

I pretty much do that but when i take the iron away the wire comes away too.
somehow clamping the wire to the connector without getting in the way or
heat-syncing away the heat is the tricky part. Someone has suggested
binding the wire and connector with fine fuse wire.

Dre

Nov 07, 2006, 09:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:y394h.5906$yz3.4685@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:4551196f$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> : news:jo84h.15968$r4.12928@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
> : >
> : > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> : > news:45510afa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use
> something
> : > that
> : > : > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke doesn't
> : > even
> : > do
> : > : > that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every
> race.
> : > : >
> : > : >
> : > : Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used Deans
> : > ultras
> : > : when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis
> plugs
> : > too.
> : > : I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every single
> race
> : > (if
> : > : he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the end
> : > connected
> : > : to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out! Because of
> : > that
> : > : reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back...
> : > :
> : > : LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :)
> : > :
> : > : Cheers Dre
> : >
> : > The attitude of the club was that correllis (yes the tube things) were
> : > superior to deans. Deans were for novices. I've also attempted my
> first
> : > bit of soldering. I had to get my dad to help cos i need at least 3
> : > hands.
> : >
> : > 1 hold iron,
> : >
> : > 2 hold dean connector,
> : >
> : > 3 hold wire to connector
> : >
> : > 4th hand feed solder. I 'tinned' the wire and the connector but when
> it
> : > comes to holding one to the other i tried the push down hard with iron
> : > approach. revolting result but quite firm.
> : >
> : > Dad tried and it is the light press the wire to the connector (which i
> : > hold)
> : > then when one face of each has a dry joint then push iron between too
> and
> : > get me to push solder in. 1 hour later, 2 deans connector finally
> : > soldered.
> : > after unsoldering to slip on heat shrink wrap of course :)
> Considering
> : > how
> : > rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya connection
> : > probably does a better job at the moment.
> : >
> :
> : Same at my club, but in my case I couldn't find any noticable
> improvement.
> : There was however between Tamyia and Deans.
> :
> : Deans can take a bit of practise to get right, but once you get the hang
> of
> : it its easy. I have no problem soldering up a pair of Deans plugs in a
> : couple of minutes, but then I have done an absolute bucket load of
> soldering
> : over the years :)
> :
> : First off you have to use a big tip in the iron, second you have to have
> a
> : hot iron and one that doesn't cool down when you do big solder work.
> :
> : I tin the wire so that you cannot see any strands left, then tin the
> contact
> : on the plug. Then put a nice blob of solder on the tip. I then put the
> : wire onto the contact, then push it all together with the tip of the
> iron.
> : You hold the iron on as long as it takes for the solder on the wire, the
> : solder on the contact and the solder on the tip to all melt together and
> : flow into all the gaps. Take heat away without disturbing the wire and
> hold
> : until cool. Then put the heatshrink on.
> :
> : Cheers Dre
>
> I pretty much do that but when i take the iron away the wire comes away
> too.
> somehow clamping the wire to the connector without getting in the way or
> heat-syncing away the heat is the tricky part. Someone has suggested
> binding the wire and connector with fine fuse wire.
>
>
I hold it there with my fingers :) further down the wire of course,
otherwise burnt fingers!

3 fingers and a thumb is needed! The only finger I dont use is my pinky :)

Left hand second in little finger and thumb holds the plug, index and middle
finger holds the wire. Right hand gets it easy and only has to hold the
iron. Told ya I've had a lot of practise with these, LOL :)

OTOH, if you can get something to clamp the plug, you can use your left hand
to hold the wire, right hand to solder...

Cheers Dre

M78Ultra

Nov 07, 2006, 11:11 PM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:455120f9$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:y394h.5906$yz3.4685@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
> >
> > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > news:4551196f$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> > : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> > : news:jo84h.15968$r4.12928@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
> > : >
> > : > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > : > news:45510afa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> > : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use
> > something
> > : > that
> > : > : > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke
doesn't
> > : > even
> > : > do
> > : > : > that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every
> > race.
> > : > : >
> > : > : >
> > : > : Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used Deans
> > : > ultras
> > : > : when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis
> > plugs
> > : > too.
> > : > : I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every single
> > race
> > : > (if
> > : > : he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the end
> > : > connected
> > : > : to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out! Because
of
> > : > that
> > : > : reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back...
> > : > :
> > : > : LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :)
> > : > :
> > : > : Cheers Dre
> > : >
> > : > The attitude of the club was that correllis (yes the tube things)
were
> > : > superior to deans. Deans were for novices. I've also attempted my
> > first
> > : > bit of soldering. I had to get my dad to help cos i need at least 3
> > : > hands.
> > : >
> > : > 1 hold iron,
> > : >
> > : > 2 hold dean connector,
> > : >
> > : > 3 hold wire to connector
> > : >
> > : > 4th hand feed solder. I 'tinned' the wire and the connector but
when
> > it
> > : > comes to holding one to the other i tried the push down hard with
iron
> > : > approach. revolting result but quite firm.
> > : >
> > : > Dad tried and it is the light press the wire to the connector (which
i
> > : > hold)
> > : > then when one face of each has a dry joint then push iron between
too
> > and
> > : > get me to push solder in. 1 hour later, 2 deans connector finally
> > : > soldered.
> > : > after unsoldering to slip on heat shrink wrap of course :)
> > Considering
> > : > how
> > : > rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya
connection
> > : > probably does a better job at the moment.
> > : >
> > :
> > : Same at my club, but in my case I couldn't find any noticable
> > improvement.
> > : There was however between Tamyia and Deans.
> > :
> > : Deans can take a bit of practise to get right, but once you get the
hang
> > of
> > : it its easy. I have no problem soldering up a pair of Deans plugs in
a
> > : couple of minutes, but then I have done an absolute bucket load of
> > soldering
> > : over the years :)
> > :
> > : First off you have to use a big tip in the iron, second you have to
have
> > a
> > : hot iron and one that doesn't cool down when you do big solder work.
> > :
> > : I tin the wire so that you cannot see any strands left, then tin the
> > contact
> > : on the plug. Then put a nice blob of solder on the tip. I then put
the
> > : wire onto the contact, then push it all together with the tip of the
> > iron.
> > : You hold the iron on as long as it takes for the solder on the wire,
the
> > : solder on the contact and the solder on the tip to all melt together
and
> > : flow into all the gaps. Take heat away without disturbing the wire
and
> > hold
> > : until cool. Then put the heatshrink on.
> > :
> > : Cheers Dre
> >
> > I pretty much do that but when i take the iron away the wire comes away
> > too.
> > somehow clamping the wire to the connector without getting in the way or
> > heat-syncing away the heat is the tricky part. Someone has suggested
> > binding the wire and connector with fine fuse wire.
> >
> >
> I hold it there with my fingers :) further down the wire of course,
> otherwise burnt fingers!
>
> 3 fingers and a thumb is needed! The only finger I dont use is my pinky
:)
>
> Left hand second in little finger and thumb holds the plug, index and
middle
> finger holds the wire. Right hand gets it easy and only has to hold the
> iron. Told ya I've had a lot of practise with these, LOL :)
>
> OTOH, if you can get something to clamp the plug, you can use your left
hand
> to hold the wire, right hand to solder...
>
> Cheers Dre
>

I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply hold the
plug which leaves both hands free!
Tin the wire end and make a bead on the deans ends,heat the under side of
the Deans end (opposite the solder) and simply press the wire down until
solder flows into a single bead from tinned wire end and prong bead. Very
easy after you get used to it. Don't over do it with the solder and don't
keep the plug too hot for too long of a time as you can melt the plastic and
the prongs will shift. You can plug the Deans together about halfway to
help with keeping prongs straight and dispersing a little heat.

Dre

Nov 07, 2006, 11:11 PM

"M78Ultra" <M78Ultra@REMOVEtriad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:SWa4h.9560$nG1.6739@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:455120f9$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>> "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> news:y394h.5906$yz3.4685@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
>> >
>> > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> > news:4551196f$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>> > : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>> > : news:jo84h.15968$r4.12928@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
>> > : >
>> > : > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>> > : > news:45510afa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>> > : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use
>> > something
>> > : > that
>> > : > : > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke
> doesn't
>> > : > even
>> > : > do
>> > : > : > that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car every
>> > race.
>> > : > : >
>> > : > : >
>> > : > : Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used
>> > Deans
>> > : > ultras
>> > : > : when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis
>> > plugs
>> > : > too.
>> > : > : I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every
>> > single
>> > race
>> > : > (if
>> > : > : he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the end
>> > : > connected
>> > : > : to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out! Because
> of
>> > : > that
>> > : > : reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back...
>> > : > :
>> > : > : LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :)
>> > : > :
>> > : > : Cheers Dre
>> > : >
>> > : > The attitude of the club was that correllis (yes the tube things)
> were
>> > : > superior to deans. Deans were for novices. I've also attempted my
>> > first
>> > : > bit of soldering. I had to get my dad to help cos i need at least
>> > 3
>> > : > hands.
>> > : >
>> > : > 1 hold iron,
>> > : >
>> > : > 2 hold dean connector,
>> > : >
>> > : > 3 hold wire to connector
>> > : >
>> > : > 4th hand feed solder. I 'tinned' the wire and the connector but
> when
>> > it
>> > : > comes to holding one to the other i tried the push down hard with
> iron
>> > : > approach. revolting result but quite firm.
>> > : >
>> > : > Dad tried and it is the light press the wire to the connector
>> > (which
> i
>> > : > hold)
>> > : > then when one face of each has a dry joint then push iron between
> too
>> > and
>> > : > get me to push solder in. 1 hour later, 2 deans connector finally
>> > : > soldered.
>> > : > after unsoldering to slip on heat shrink wrap of course :)
>> > Considering
>> > : > how
>> > : > rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya
> connection
>> > : > probably does a better job at the moment.
>> > : >
>> > :
>> > : Same at my club, but in my case I couldn't find any noticable
>> > improvement.
>> > : There was however between Tamyia and Deans.
>> > :
>> > : Deans can take a bit of practise to get right, but once you get the
> hang
>> > of
>> > : it its easy. I have no problem soldering up a pair of Deans plugs in
> a
>> > : couple of minutes, but then I have done an absolute bucket load of
>> > soldering
>> > : over the years :)
>> > :
>> > : First off you have to use a big tip in the iron, second you have to
> have
>> > a
>> > : hot iron and one that doesn't cool down when you do big solder work.
>> > :
>> > : I tin the wire so that you cannot see any strands left, then tin the
>> > contact
>> > : on the plug. Then put a nice blob of solder on the tip. I then put
> the
>> > : wire onto the contact, then push it all together with the tip of the
>> > iron.
>> > : You hold the iron on as long as it takes for the solder on the wire,
> the
>> > : solder on the contact and the solder on the tip to all melt together
> and
>> > : flow into all the gaps. Take heat away without disturbing the wire
> and
>> > hold
>> > : until cool. Then put the heatshrink on.
>> > :
>> > : Cheers Dre
>> >
>> > I pretty much do that but when i take the iron away the wire comes away
>> > too.
>> > somehow clamping the wire to the connector without getting in the way
>> > or
>> > heat-syncing away the heat is the tricky part. Someone has suggested
>> > binding the wire and connector with fine fuse wire.
>> >
>> >
>> I hold it there with my fingers :) further down the wire of course,
>> otherwise burnt fingers!
>>
>> 3 fingers and a thumb is needed! The only finger I dont use is my pinky
> :)
>>
>> Left hand second in little finger and thumb holds the plug, index and
> middle
>> finger holds the wire. Right hand gets it easy and only has to hold the
>> iron. Told ya I've had a lot of practise with these, LOL :)
>>
>> OTOH, if you can get something to clamp the plug, you can use your left
> hand
>> to hold the wire, right hand to solder...
>>
>> Cheers Dre
>>
>
> I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply hold the
> plug which leaves both hands free!
> Tin the wire end and make a bead on the deans ends,heat the under side of
> the Deans end (opposite the solder) and simply press the wire down until
> solder flows into a single bead from tinned wire end and prong bead. Very
> easy after you get used to it. Don't over do it with the solder and don't
> keep the plug too hot for too long of a time as you can melt the plastic
> and
> the prongs will shift. You can plug the Deans together about halfway to
> help with keeping prongs straight and dispersing a little heat.
>
>

Good points.

I dont heat the underside though cause I dont like getting solder on those
sides, prefer to keep them goldy coloured, LOL :) (yes I know, I'm a freak)

Cheers Dre

Richard

Nov 08, 2006, 01:11 AM

"M78Ultra" <M78Ultra@REMOVEtriad.rr.com> wrote in message
news:SWa4h.9560$nG1.6739@tornado.southeast.rr.com. ..
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:455120f9$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> > "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> > news:y394h.5906$yz3.4685@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
> > >
> > > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > news:4551196f$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> > > : "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> > > : news:jo84h.15968$r4.12928@newsfe3-gui.ntli.net...
> > > : >
> > > : > "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> > > : > news:45510afa$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> > > : > : > I thought the bullet things were ok. Most of my club use
> > > something
> > > : > that
> > > : > : > looks like them call corellis.(scuse spelling). One bloke
> doesn't
> > > : > even
> > > : > do
> > > : > : > that but simply solders his batteries directly to the car
every
> > > race.
> > > : > : >
> > > : > : >
> > > : > : Are the Corellis those tube style plugs?? I've allways used
Deans
> > > : > ultras
> > > : > : when I was at the club, but a lot of people used those Corellis
> > > plugs
> > > : > too.
> > > : > : I remember one guy wouldn't move from them, and after every
single
> > > race
> > > : > (if
> > > : > : he finished), he would get the car back only to find that the
end
> > > : > connected
> > > : > : to the wire would work its way out and allmost come out!
Because
> of
> > > : > that
> > > : > : reason I stuck with Deans and have never looked back...
> > > : > :
> > > : > : LOL at the dude who soldered his batts :)
> > > : > :
> > > : > : Cheers Dre
> > > : >
> > > : > The attitude of the club was that correllis (yes the tube things)
> were
> > > : > superior to deans. Deans were for novices. I've also attempted
my
> > > first
> > > : > bit of soldering. I had to get my dad to help cos i need at least
3
> > > : > hands.
> > > : >
> > > : > 1 hold iron,
> > > : >
> > > : > 2 hold dean connector,
> > > : >
> > > : > 3 hold wire to connector
> > > : >
> > > : > 4th hand feed solder. I 'tinned' the wire and the connector but
> when
> > > it
> > > : > comes to holding one to the other i tried the push down hard with
> iron
> > > : > approach. revolting result but quite firm.
> > > : >
> > > : > Dad tried and it is the light press the wire to the connector
(which
> i
> > > : > hold)
> > > : > then when one face of each has a dry joint then push iron between
> too
> > > and
> > > : > get me to push solder in. 1 hour later, 2 deans connector finally
> > > : > soldered.
> > > : > after unsoldering to slip on heat shrink wrap of course :)
> > > Considering
> > > : > how
> > > : > rough the connection probably is the factory fitted tamiya
> connection
> > > : > probably does a better job at the moment.
> > > : >
> > > :
> > > : Same at my club, but in my case I couldn't find any noticable
> > > improvement.
> > > : There was however between Tamyia and Deans.
> > > :
> > > : Deans can take a bit of practise to get right, but once you get the
> hang
> > > of
> > > : it its easy. I have no problem soldering up a pair of Deans plugs
in
> a
> > > : couple of minutes, but then I have done an absolute bucket load of
> > > soldering
> > > : over the years :)
> > > :
> > > : First off you have to use a big tip in the iron, second you have to
> have
> > > a
> > > : hot iron and one that doesn't cool down when you do big solder work.
> > > :
> > > : I tin the wire so that you cannot see any strands left, then tin the
> > > contact
> > > : on the plug. Then put a nice blob of solder on the tip. I then put
> the
> > > : wire onto the contact, then push it all together with the tip of the
> > > iron.
> > > : You hold the iron on as long as it takes for the solder on the wire,
> the
> > > : solder on the contact and the solder on the tip to all melt together
> and
> > > : flow into all the gaps. Take heat away without disturbing the wire
> and
> > > hold
> > > : until cool. Then put the heatshrink on.
> > > :
> > > : Cheers Dre
> > >
> > > I pretty much do that but when i take the iron away the wire comes
away
> > > too.
> > > somehow clamping the wire to the connector without getting in the way
or
> > > heat-syncing away the heat is the tricky part. Someone has suggested
> > > binding the wire and connector with fine fuse wire.
> > >
> > >
> > I hold it there with my fingers :) further down the wire of course,
> > otherwise burnt fingers!
> >
> > 3 fingers and a thumb is needed! The only finger I dont use is my pinky
> :)
> >
> > Left hand second in little finger and thumb holds the plug, index and
> middle
> > finger holds the wire. Right hand gets it easy and only has to hold the
> > iron. Told ya I've had a lot of practise with these, LOL :)
> >
> > OTOH, if you can get something to clamp the plug, you can use your left
> hand
> > to hold the wire, right hand to solder...
> >
> > Cheers Dre
> >
>
> I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply hold the
> plug which leaves both hands free!
>

I made a soldering jig with some lead that I had sitting around that I make
fishing weights out of and I simply drilled a hole in the lead and put a
alligator clip in the hole. I use this for all my soldering jobs, it looks
a bit dodgy but it does the job and you don't need a spare hand.

Cheers

ian

Nov 08, 2006, 07:11 AM

"Richard" <DK@Hotmail.com.au> wrote in message
news:45515b98@quokka.wn.com.au...
: > >
: > > Cheers Dre
: > >
: >
: > I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply hold
the
: > plug which leaves both hands free!
: >
:
: I made a soldering jig with some lead that I had sitting around that I
make
: fishing weights out of and I simply drilled a hole in the lead and put a
: alligator clip in the hole. I use this for all my soldering jobs, it
looks
: a bit dodgy but it does the job and you don't need a spare hand.
:
:
: Cheers

All good tips. I'm off to maplins today to look for any useful bits and
pieces.

ian

Nov 08, 2006, 09:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:xxj4h.19347$163.16980@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
:
: "Richard" <DK@Hotmail.com.au> wrote in message
: news:45515b98@quokka.wn.com.au...
:: > >
:: > > Cheers Dre
:: > >
:: >
:: > I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply hold
: the
:: > plug which leaves both hands free!
:: >
::
:: I made a soldering jig with some lead that I had sitting around that I
: make
:: fishing weights out of and I simply drilled a hole in the lead and put a
:: alligator clip in the hole. I use this for all my soldering jobs, it
: looks
:: a bit dodgy but it does the job and you don't need a spare hand.
::
::
:: Cheers
:
: All good tips. I'm off to maplins today to look for any useful bits and
: pieces.

The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016&TabID=1&source=23&doy=9m11

Dre

Nov 08, 2006, 09:11 PM

"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:6gv4h.6080$yz3.655@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
>
> "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:xxj4h.19347$163.16980@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
> :
> : "Richard" <DK@Hotmail.com.au> wrote in message
> : news:45515b98@quokka.wn.com.au...
> :: > >
> :: > > Cheers Dre
> :: > >
> :: >
> :: > I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply
> hold
> : the
> :: > plug which leaves both hands free!
> :: >
> ::
> :: I made a soldering jig with some lead that I had sitting around that I
> : make
> :: fishing weights out of and I simply drilled a hole in the lead and put
> a
> :: alligator clip in the hole. I use this for all my soldering jobs, it
> : looks
> :: a bit dodgy but it does the job and you don't need a spare hand.
> ::
> ::
> :: Cheers
> :
> : All good tips. I'm off to maplins today to look for any useful bits and
> : pieces.
>
> The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016&TabID=1&source=23&doy=9m11
>
>
Umm, you can get hotter, I have an 80watt and my father has a 150watt!
(complete with 1/2" tip!!)

Cheers Dre

ian

Nov 09, 2006, 07:11 AM

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:455288e7$1@patrick.nettas.net...
: "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
: news:6gv4h.6080$yz3.655@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
: >
: > "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
: > news:xxj4h.19347$163.16980@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...
: > :
: > : "Richard" <DK@Hotmail.com.au> wrote in message
: > : news:45515b98@quokka.wn.com.au...
: > :: > >
: > :: > > Cheers Dre
: > :: > >
: > :: >
: > :: > I just use a pair of vise grips or an adjustable wrench to simply
: > hold
: > : the
: > :: > plug which leaves both hands free!
: > :: >
: > ::
: > :: I made a soldering jig with some lead that I had sitting around that
I
: > : make
: > :: fishing weights out of and I simply drilled a hole in the lead and
put
: > a
: > :: alligator clip in the hole. I use this for all my soldering jobs, it
: > : looks
: > :: a bit dodgy but it does the job and you don't need a spare hand.
: > ::
: > ::
: > :: Cheers
: > :
: > : All good tips. I'm off to maplins today to look for any useful bits
and
: > : pieces.
: >
: > The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts
: >
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016&TabID=1&source=23&doy=9m11
: >
: >
: Umm, you can get hotter, I have an 80watt and my father has a 150watt!
: (complete with 1/2" tip!!)
:
: Cheers Dre

got an email from r brewster himself "the art of soldering by r brewster"
http://www.brewstersbatteries.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=37

Marc Heusser

Nov 09, 2006, 01:11 PM

In article <vRE4h.12842$GX2.6989@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net>,
"ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote:

....
> : > The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts
> : >
> http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016&TabID=1&source=23&doy=9m11
> : >
> : >
> : Umm, you can get hotter, I have an 80watt and my father has a 150watt!
> : (complete with 1/2" tip!!)
> :
> : Cheers Dre
>
> got an email from r brewster himself "the art of soldering by r brewster"
> http://www.brewstersbatteries.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=37

There are very nice solder stations with 72W, 6 seconds from cold to
perfectly regulated 350°C (or any other temperature you might need):

http://www.adola.com/products/loten/lotstation_rx802_as.html
(This particular page is not in english unfortunately but you'll get the
key points of the data - call them if interested
(http://www.adola.com/e/contact/index.html).

I use a more than 15y old predecessor of this one and it works really
well.

From comparing lead free solder this should be cheaper than the above
company.

HTH

Marc

--
Switzerland/Europe
<http://www.heusser.com>
remove CHEERS and from MERCIAL to get valid e-mail

Dre

Nov 09, 2006, 07:11 PM

"Marc Heusser" <marc.heusser@CHEERSheusser.comMERCIALspammers.inva lid> wrote
in message news:marc.heusser-56E588.19012809112006@news.unizh.ch...
> In article <vRE4h.12842$GX2.6989@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net>,
> "ian" <r.lincoln@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
> ...
>> : > The hottest mains power soldering iron is 50watts
>> : >
>> http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=35016&TabID=1&source=23&doy=9m11
>> : >
>> : >
>> : Umm, you can get hotter, I have an 80watt and my father has a 150watt!
>> : (complete with 1/2" tip!!)
>> :
>> : Cheers Dre
>>
>> got an email from r brewster himself "the art of soldering by r brewster"
>> http://www.brewstersbatteries.co.uk/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=37
>
> There are very nice solder stations with 72W, 6 seconds from cold to
> perfectly regulated 350°C (or any other temperature you might need):
>
> http://www.adola.com/products/loten/lotstation_rx802_as.html
> (This particular page is not in english unfortunately but you'll get the
> key points of the data - call them if interested
> (http://www.adola.com/e/contact/index.html).
>
> I use a more than 15y old predecessor of this one and it works really
> well.
>
> From comparing lead free solder this should be cheaper than the above
> company.
>
> HTH
>
> Marc
>
> --
> Switzerland/Europe
> <http://www.heusser.com>
> remove CHEERS and from MERCIAL to get valid e-mail

SIX SECONDS!!!! damn I need a new soldering iron :)

Thats very impressive though, allthough mine is hot within a minute so not
too bad :)

Cheers Dre