View Full Version : Re: Bloody nitros and rotostarts
\Doc\
Oct 31, 2006, 07:11 PM
"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4547cc80$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> The thing is, I've tried all of that, and I can screw the idle down so the
> carb throat is shut completely. Stalls out just before.
>
> Tried richening the LSN, doesn't seem to change it.
>
> You know how a top fuel dragster sounds just before its about to launch?
> you get that sort of bounce off the revlimiter sort of sound, thats what
> it sounds like at idle and the clutch isn't engaged at this high idle
> either...
>
> Its a wierd one and the only issue with it atm...
>
> Cheers Dre
If richening the LSN doesn't fix the problem, and closing the idle screw
doesn't lower the idle, the only reasonable conclusion would be a small air
leak somewhere. Is your carb and backplate siliconed to the motor?
Doc
Dre
Oct 31, 2006, 09:11 PM
""Doc"" <hmmmm@nahhhh.net> wrote in message
news:AOGdnZgRX-cpQ9rYnZ2dnUVZ_tednZ2d@adelphia.com...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:4547cc80$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>
>> The thing is, I've tried all of that, and I can screw the idle down so
>> the carb throat is shut completely. Stalls out just before.
>>
>> Tried richening the LSN, doesn't seem to change it.
>>
>> You know how a top fuel dragster sounds just before its about to launch?
>> you get that sort of bounce off the revlimiter sort of sound, thats what
>> it sounds like at idle and the clutch isn't engaged at this high idle
>> either...
>>
>> Its a wierd one and the only issue with it atm...
>>
>> Cheers Dre
>
> If richening the LSN doesn't fix the problem, and closing the idle screw
> doesn't lower the idle, the only reasonable conclusion would be a small
> air leak somewhere. Is your carb and backplate siliconed to the motor?
>
> Doc
I suppose it could be an air leak, buuuuuuuut, it wasn't there before I did
the clutch springs :)
Nope, haven't siliconed those bits (doens't the carb and backplate have an
o-ring for that purpose?). Tonight I'm planning to see how it goes. I have
a feeling its going to be the same so after that test, I'll pull the motor
out again, silicon the backplate and carb base and change the springs back.
I might try richening the LSN even more than I did last time and see.
I'll need to do a bit of a tune anyway as it has its new air filter on it
now.
Cheers Dre
Richard
Nov 01, 2006, 01:11 AM
""Doc"" <hmmmm@nahhhh.net> wrote in message
news:A9KdnSh31djYg9XYnZ2dnUVZ_oqdnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:4547e326$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>
> >> If richening the LSN doesn't fix the problem, and closing the idle
screw
> >> doesn't lower the idle, the only reasonable conclusion would be a small
> >> air leak somewhere. Is your carb and backplate siliconed to the motor?
>
> > I suppose it could be an air leak, buuuuuuuut, it wasn't there before I
> > did the clutch springs :)
>
> Coincidence! I replaced the intake manifold gaskets on my 1:1 SUV a few
> weeks back and immediately afterwards 2 of my parking lamps blew out.
Would
> we conclude that the new gaskets caused the bulbs to blow? ;-)
>
>
> Doc
HAHAHA Sounds like my missus, she came home from work last week and says
there is clunking noise coming from the back diff every time she goes around
a corner and since I put a new diff lock in the rear end only a couple of
months ago I was worried it might have sheared a axle. I did a oil change,
the oil that came out was like new and no metal bits in the oil.
She had reversed into the driveway so I didn't even look at the front of the
4x4 but when I eventually made it to the front, I find the front bumper
bracket was SNAFU and it was the bumper hitting on the tyre every time she
went around the corner not the rear diff at all.
Cheers
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