Oly III from Skybench

[kostuk]

Hi
I was wondering if there was wny news on the new Oly III from Skybench? There is a phot on their website.
THanks,
Ray

[sloperut]

Build thread - please. :D

Jeff

[Speedo125]

I've been in touch with someone who built one of the prototypes. He absolutely raves about it; saying that he flew nearly 100 yards on the first hand toss. Apparently the new design has reduced the parts count by 35 pieces and strengthened the fuse'.

I'll be ordering one for myself as soon as possible. -Thom

[bobby legue]

Yep,
That was me. Do you have any specific questions on it? I absolutly LOVE it. It has very good manners and flys like God wants to get a closer look at it! Go ahead, shoot me some questions. Ill be glad to answer all.
What a plane, What a country! Shipping will begin November 7th.
Bob

[sloperut]

More photos?

Jeff

[kostuk]

How much does the OLY II weigh?
How manuverable is it near the ground for landing?
Thanks,
Ray

[bobby legue]

Jeff, Ray Hayes has the photos so maybe you could coax him to put up a few more.
Ray, I believe mine came in at 59 ounces. Then I took out 3.5 ounces to hit that sweet spot for flying. Used hs85mg all around and will use them again. At its slowest speed I never thought that control was an issue. I completely stalled it on a launch with the right wing down and just pushed the stick down and leveled it almost immediately. The airfoil to plane planform is right next to genious.
You possible future builders dont forget that there is a aileron and flap version also. Im going to build that one too.
Its been a long time since I was this excited about a model. Ive been flying for over 25 years so it takes a lot for me to get excited.
Bob

[Ray Hayes]

I just registered for SWC 07 ... me and my OLY lll. See you there Ray K ??? OLY lll price are on my web site, print our order form off the web site and mail your orders now for shipping in November.

Bob, Jim Deck is working on your writen instructions, Im suppose to be setting up the your photos, but it is the season for Sky Bench ... lots of people building kits...... were swamped and I'm tired. Thanks again for all your time and good help.

Ray
skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters

[Jurgen]

I'm with Jeff, photo's photo's we want photo's :)
How about electrifying this bird? Is it thesame kit or other fuse?
Is there a need for ailerons on this model?
Jurgen.

[bobby legue]

Its all new.
No need for ailerons, But those who like straight wings with attached control surfaces the option is there. You know, you got me thinking. How about a rudder, elevator, and flaps to turn it into a butterfly? Ive never tried that before. Hmmmmm....

[kostuk]

Ray and Guys,
Thanks for the info on weight and performance. Ray, I'll mail in my check for the Oly III and see you at the SWC in 07!
Ray

[Ercoupe Ed]

Hi Ray,
I like all the hype on the new Oly III.
Sounds like the right sailplane for me.

From what Bobby Legue is saying with that 100 yard hand toss, and flight performance, looks like the "store boght" Bubble Dancers" and "Sopranos" will have some serious competition.

Will the plans show the "flapped" version?
Not really interested in ailerons, my thinking is polyhedral wing with flaps, an awesome combination.
How's about I just drive over to your place next month and get one?
Not much sense in shipping it across town.

Hey by the way, you have any carbon tailbooms and spars for the Legionaire.

See you later

Ed

[Ercoupe Ed]

Its all new.
No need for ailerons, But those who like straight wings with attached control surfaces the option is there. You know, you got me thinking. How about a rudder, elevator, and flaps to turn it into a butterfly? Ive never tried that before. Hmmmmm....

Thinking like you, perhaps flaps?
I enjoyed reading your posts and the pictures. Looks straight foward enough to build one.
I have built Two Oly II's in the past that were Airtronics kits.
Both flew good, in fact Oly II was my first sailplane, and still have it.

Ed

[bobby legue]

It is not a diffucult build Ed. The hand launch story is a little out of kilter although it sounds good. I netted about 85 yards with a running hard as heck throw! Not bragging but my biceps measure 18". That is still solid testament to the air worthiness of this plane. As for the build, it is my opinion that if you have built any sheeted wing before it will be quite easy. The leading edge sheeting is precut for you. Most of the wood is cut for you. There will be more sanding than cutting. Ray has really done his homework here and the extent of the prefabrication is tremendous. He has even taken the time to bag assemblies and rubber band togather the sub assemblies. Wings are bundled fuse is bundled ect. Took me about 14 hours total time to build. That does not include drying time. Note that Im rather a slow builder and I didnt have instructions as I was writing them down as went. I got a box of wood and a set of plans. I would do that again if another kit came along.

[bobby legue]

I ordered my second one today! This one is going to be rudder, elevator, and flaps. My third one will be REAF with Houston Hawk tips. Just because I like the looks. What will you do with your kit?
Bob

[rdwoebke]

looks like the "store boght" Bubble Dancers" and "Sopranos" will have some serious competition.


I don't know about you, but I had to build my Bubble Dancer from scratch. Took me about 7 months. I lost it in less than a year. :(

RIP Johny Rotten


Ryan

[bobby legue]

Sorry to hear about your loss. I tried to get a BD EZ for several months and never got a single reply to my constant requests. Sorry to you Denny but not a single reply. My Oly lll took only a few weeks as Ive got a busy, busy schedule and I had to write the instuctions and figure out the sequence as I went. That was fun! These two planes are very different both in flying style. The BD is a floater with minimal penetration as was the one that I flew. The Oly lll is capable of penetrating in much higher wind without the use of ballast. There is however plenty of room for ballast in the Oly lll and you wont have to remove the wing to add it. It is very well thought out. For my style of flying it is matched perfectly. Showing lift is what it seems to do best. So even a beginner can fly and succeed in maxing time. After all staying up is what it is all about. It will be a good teacher to the new flyers and is a serious competater for the medium time flyer. I estimate confidently that the seasoned flyer will take home a lot of trophys.
Bob

[rdwoebke]

Sorry to hear about your loss.

I'm over it now. It was over a year ago now that the plane was lost (battery died, my fault for not charging it in between rounds).


The BD is a floater with minimal penetration as was the one that I flew.

I disagree with that, but then I guess penetration is open to interperetation. The BD and its little brother the Allegro Lite from my personal experience penetrate reasonably well. Ballest certianly helps once you hit 12-15 mph winds.

Ryan

[tww1fa]

Any idea on how the OLY III compares to the Sky Bird performance-wise?

[bobby legue]

Very similar.

[wingsnapper]

Had any troubles getting that plug in wing assembly correct? Gaps between the fues and wing or alignment issues?
Jesse

[bobby legue]

Hi Wingsnapper,
No there is no alignment problem as the wing box joiner has the correct angle cut into one end of it. This helps set the proper angle and mine went to the fuse with about two swipes of 220 grit. I most always put a glob of epoxy and microballons to adhere the two pieces and press them togather. This time the clearance is nearly perfect so I cleaned up a lot of goo! There are so many little built in idiot proof pieces that even I couldnt screw it up.
I built the fuse and set the wing rod tubes before I built the wing and it came out 1/8th of an inch away from a perfect measure at 134 inches. Needles to say, it didnt show up in the test flying. This plane will be good in Texas as she penetrates without ballast. It will be great in the flatlands as it climbs very, very well. Shall we say a "smooth operator."
Bob

[Dakslope]

Hi Bobby Legue,
Have you weighed your Oly III?

Rob

[bobby legue]

59 ounces.

[Ray Hayes]

OLY lll
D-Tube wing construction.
Wing Span 132" Airfoil S 3014
Wing Area 1066 sq in RES Flying weight 59 oz
Wing loading in flight - 8 oz per sq ft
Plans show optional flaps

Ray
skybench.com

[Dave Moore]

I have one of Ray's Lil Bird kits (electrified) and I love the way it flys. All this talk of the Oly III has me drooling. For competition purposes, how agressive a winch launch do you think it will it take? In comparison, say, to an Art Hobby Hi-Aspect?

Dave M

[tw126a]

Just a hunch, but I bet the Oly III takes a more aggressive launch.
Tom

[teddybear1]

Fed EX man came today with my new OLY III. Excellent packing from Skybench, no crushed wood! Quality of wood provided is excellent, as is the "hardware". Will post more as build progresses.

[bobby legue]

Dig in Dude your going to love it.

[Don Mackay]

Does anyone have a picture of the front of the fuselage, I loved my OLY 2, but hated that blunt, squared off nose.
I'm ordering a OLY 3 for my winter build.
Don

[teddybear1]

Don: The plans show optional nose shapes.

[teddybear1]

A few photos of the tail group

[Don Mackay]

Thanks Teddy, can't wait to get started.
Don

[teddybear1]

some fuse build photos

[schrederman]

Saaaayyyy...

There's just one wing rod... what's the diameter?

Jack Womack

[nuevo]

solid sheeted tail surfaces? :confused: I'm surprised.

[Jim Deck]

[FONT=Arial Black]OK, OLY III fans, assuming the postal service works, Ray Hayes should have an edited version of Terry Forbes' build notes by mid week (today's a postal holiday). The instructions include some photos, a section on flaps, a section on an optional skid, and many building tips. For those of you that didn't like the OLY II's "clunky" nose, take joy, for the OLY III is very nice looking. BTW, my call on this ship is, that if you've built at least one "woodie", you can build this one. I believe Ray has a winner here. Sorry it took so long to produce the instructions (they wound up a 27 page Word document) - it was an interesting experience for me.
Jim Deck

[teddybear1]

Saaaayyyy...

There's just one wing rod... what's the diameter?

Jack Womack
wing rod is 5/16"

[Dave Moore]

Jim,

Are the building instructions available as a Word file?

DM

[schrederman]

Say...

That wing would look nice on Ray's new pod-and-boom fuselage... Uh Oh... I'm gettin' that old feelin'...

Jack

[Fred Cotten]

Jack, What pod and boom fuselage ?

[FrogChief]

Jack, What pod and boom fuselage ?


This one: http://www.skybench.com/

[Dave Moore]

I finally finished my Oly III. It certainly was a challenge. It came in much heavier than Bobby League's. I'm at 70+ ounces to hit the plan CG. That includes 11 ounces of lead, most of that in the hollowed out nose.

I have hopes to fly it this weekend.

Dave Moore

[kzimmerm]

Very Nice !!

[Ray Hayes]

Hi Dave,

Your OLY lll is beatuful, congrats.

Did you glass the fuse ?

Ray
Skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters

[ejett]

I finally finished my Oly III. It certainly was a challenge. It came in much heavier than Bobby League's. I'm at 70+ ounces to hit the plan CG. That includes 11 ounces of lead, most of that in the hollowed out nose.

I have hopes to fly it this weekend.

Dave Moore


It should fly fine at 70 oz. It's a BIG plane.

I'm building one too. Should finish any minute, but I make no more promises. I'll post pictures when it is done. It is yellow and transparent purple. Then I will start on its stablemate the Skybird. Most of what I've learned on the Oly III will be directly usable on the Skybird as most of the construction is the same. There is a little difference in the wing root area and it has two 5/16" wingrods. That will make alignment a touch trickier.

Stay tuned.

EJ
Athens, LA

[kzimmerm]

It should fly fine at 70 oz. It's a BIG plane.

I'm building one too. Should finish any minute, but I make no more promises. I'll post pictures when it is done. It is yellow and transparent purple. Then I will start on its stablemate the Skybird. Most of what I've learned on the Oly III will be directly usable on the Skybird as most of the construction is the same. There is a little difference in the wing root area and it has two 5/16" wingrods. That will make alignment a touch trickier.

Stay tuned.

EJ
Athens, LA


... another Vikings Fan?

[Tag1260]

My guess would be LSU!!! :D :D :D :D

[Ray Hayes]

Dave's is the second OLY lll I have seen with the wing tips on backwards, a club member did the same thing to his. The pic is Terry Forbes OLY lll.

Ray
Skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters

[kzimmerm]

Dave's is the second OLY lll I have seen with the wing tips on backwards, a club member did the same thing to his. The pic is Terry Forbes OLY lll.

Ray
Skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters

I was noticing that... Was that done intentional?

Kurt

[Ray Hayes]

My local guy found it hard to believe he had them on backwards, ho got his share of ribbing from some of the club members.

[ejett]

My guess would be LSU!!! :D :D :D :D

Actually a fan of both the Vikings and LSU, but the plane is yellow and transparent purple just because I always wanted to do one in those colors. It turned out looking pretty nice if I do say so myself. I saw a BoT that George Voss built for a customer in those colors and I really liked it. So, that's what this Oly III is wearing.

I was busy tying up loose ends tonight. I have the servos installed and centered up and throws checked. I have to do the radio programing tomorrow AM and get it balanced. Winds are forecast at 10 to 15, so I'm not sure I will brave the maiden tomorrow.

Anyway, I'll take some pictures tomorrow and post them before I fly it, just in case I re-kit it for some reason.

That reminds me. I need to go put transmitter and receiver batteries on the charger.

[ejett]

My local guy found it hard to believe he had them on backwards, ho got his share of ribbing from some of the club members.


I think I got my wingtips on correctly. I did transition the airfoil to symetrical at the end of the tip. It is not like the Oly/Aquila tips, but the trailing edge slopes up linearly from the last rib to the end of the tip. I think it came out looking nice, but I don't think there is any magic in what I did to it.

Dang. All this talk of the Oly III has got me headed back out to work on some more trivia. Like how to insert the the receiver antenna in the tube that I installed that is back under the rear turtledeck. I have an idea that this will not be difficult, but it won't be as easy as it should have. I didn't have a tube long enough to go from the end of the fuse to the former at the wingrod, so I stopped it at the next one. But the fuse is so long that the antenna cannot reach the end anyway so I could have pulled it up to that next one without any issues. Another note for the Skybird build. :D

EJ

[ejett]

Well, I got all the pieces together tonight for the first time for a complete airframe. I wanted to take a picture, but couldn't get a good vantage point to take one. I will pull it out in the open tomorrow AM for the photo shoot.

I think I'm going to have to take it apart to get it out the door and reassemble it outside.

I have a little concern that the wings may not be correctly matched incidence wise. I'll check that again tomorrow AM. I looked at them carefully, but really could not tell for sure. I do not think I got the ply wing root ribs on the fuselage properly aligned. I remember having to work on the opening to get the wing rod to look square to the fuse. I remember being agitated by having to do that. It is NOT the fault of the kit in any way. My own doings, so now I am a little nervous about it. I will tape some spar stock to the bottoms of the wings so that I can compare again. Looking from the front, it looks correct, but looking at the left root rib alignments the left wing looks low on the leading edge. Hard to imagine how I could have gotten it off as much as it looks. Oh well, some checks tomorrow will tell the tale.

I have 6 ounces of nose weight and it seems to be nose heavy. I believe I can take at least some of it out.

EJ

[ChuckA]

Dave's is the second OLY lll I have seen with the wing tips on backwards, a club member did the same thing to his. The pic is Terry Forbes OLY lll.

Ray
Skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters

According to Horner, backwards should have lower drag. Researched this many years ago when I had so free time and a copy or Horner's Fluid Dynamic Drag on my desk.

[ejett]

Since I had it assembled complete with first cut on balance weight and radio gear, I put it on the scales. 66 oz. Not sure exactly what I did to add that much weight over Bobby's. I did add flaps and that adds some weight over just spoilers. Not that much but some.

I'm not concerned about the weight. It should fly fine.

I did do some checking on the wing incidence and the left wing is definitely off. I will have to fix that before I can fly it. RATZ!

EJ

[Ray Hayes]

Ed,

How much do the flap servos, wiring, mounting and hinge stock weigh ? Are the servos behind the spar ( balance point) ? Did you weigh the antenna tube, I use plastic straws spliced together, they are the lightest material I can find for the antenna tube. Note the holes in the rear fuse formers are the size of straw I use.

I use large ( squared ) blocks under the inner wing panels when gluing in the wing joiner tubes in the fuse. This makes sure the wings are in alignment.

When installing the tubes in the wings, I make sure the wings are alinged by putting blocks under the wing to create the dihedral angle and a block under the the wing rod and alignment wire. The blocks under the rod and alignment wire has the same width as the fuse. The blocks make sure the rod and alignment wires are level, makes sure the wing roots are squared and this is when I install the balsa root rib ( #1 ) to make sure it will have the right angle to be flush with the fuse sides.

Make sure the brass tubes in the wings protrude through the plywood root cap on the wings and the brass and aluminum tubes protrude through the plywood root caps that are glued to the outside of the fuse sides.

Knowing the wing tubes ( rod and alignment wire ) are set correctly in the wings, the two large blocks are placed under the wings and aginst the fuse sides during the process of gluing in the fuse brass tube and aluminum alginment wire tube. I use weights on the wing root behind the spar to hold wing in place while epoxy is curing.

I'll see if I can find a photo I recently took of a Gulf Coaster with the blocks and weight in place. Well I can't find it, but it is on my web site in the Gulf Coaster building tips.

After I have the wing tubes glued in and the stab covered, I glue the stab to the fuse, making sure the stab is aligned with the wings ( no stab tilt ).

Ray
Skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters

[ejett]

Ray:

I should have reworked that installation when I discovered the joiner rod tube wasn't square. I fixed that, but didn't rework the alignment tube at that point. I guess it just didn't register at that point in time.

I generally put the alignment tubes and wing rod tube together just the way you describe in your post above. Unfortuneately, I made some kind of error, but it's been so long ago that I don't remember exactly at what point I went wrong. As I say, it must have been when I reworked the joiner tube.

As far as the weight is concerned. I am sure the two servos and the flap structure bring some weight penalty. The flaps are built up though and not solid.

I liked your idea about the straws, but didn't have any and couldn't find any locally that would fit in the holes, so I used a pushrod sheath. No doubt that it is a little heavier than the straws. I did cut lightening holes in the fin, stab and rudder. I weighed the wood I cut out for grins and it was between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 oz.



Question Ray. Does the Skybird have more or less wing area than the Oly III?

EJ
Athens, LA

[dion9146]

Nice looking plane EJ. I've been reading as much as I can about the Oly series and the more I see, the more I like. I'll probably end up building one during the Winter season this year.

Can't wait to hear how it flies.

Dion

[Wylie Shaw]

Hi EJ, Could you send me a drawing of how you did your flaps, a side view and top view would be nice, nothing fancy or to scale....would appreciate it.


thanks....


Best Regards,



Wylie S.


email is F15EAGLE@SONIC.NET OR PM ME HERE.....


THANKS

[ejett]

I'll send you an email with a sketch. I may post it here for everyone's benefit or entertainment as the case may be.

The epoxy is curing on the alignment pin tube now. Hopefully, that issue is behind me.

One of the late breaking problems that I ran into is that the horn for the rudder hit the rear of the fuselage at the back when deflected. Make sure you thin down the fuse right at the rear so the horn will clear the fuse sides when deflected. I just notched out some clearance with the Xacto knife. Effective, but not very elegant.

Another thing I will do differently on the Skybird is that I will make a servo tray for standard size servos one behind the other. In this plane I have two HS-85MG micros side by side, but there is not a lot of clearance left for the servo arms, so they are short on my build. Full size servos would not cause any significant weight penalty since they are forward of the CG and you will probably need some nose weight to balance it anyway. The fuse is LONG; I do recommend lightening holes in the tails surfaces to save some weight. I took between 1-1/4 and 1-1/2 oz. out of the tail. That is why I may have saved some weight compared to Don's plane earlier in this thread. I currently have 6 oz. in the nose for balance.

Not yet flown.

EJ

[kzimmerm]

I'm really liking the OLY III... just wondering why it was called an OLY III anyway? Was it derived from the Oly II?

Kurt

[ejett]

I'm really liking the OLY III... just wondering why it was called an OLY III anyway? Was it derived from the Oly II?

Kurt

Ray may want to answer this himself, but I think he wanted to take the Oly series a step further. The wing planform and the general shape of the tail surfaces get their inspiration from the Oly II, but in my mind, the rest of the plane has much more in common with the Skybird than the Oly II.

Wingspan is the same as the Skybird, but the chord is smaller. Fuse is almost identical. The Skybird fuse and the Oly III fuse sides are identical outlines. The nose block shape is different and the former at the wingrod/towhook location is slightly different - the Skybird has two 5/16" wingrods and the Oly III has one.

If you like the Oly III shape better than the Skybird shape, then it's the plane for you. The Oly II was an Airtronics design, but the OLY III is a Skybench design from the ground up.

EJ
Athens, LA

[kzimmerm]

Ray may want to answer this himself, but I think he wanted to take the Oly series a step further. The wing planform and the general shape of the tail surfaces get their inspiration from the Oly II, but in my mind, the rest of the plane has much more in common with the Skybird than the Oly II.

Wingspan is the same as the Skybird, but the chord is smaller. Fuse is almost identical. The Skybird fuse and the Oly III fuse sides are identical outlines. The nose block shape is different and the former at the wingrod/towhook location is slightly different - the Skybird has two 5/16" wingrods and the Oly III has one.

If you like the Oly III shape better than the Skybird shape, then it's the plane for you. The Oly II was an Airtronics design, but the OLY III is a Skybench design from the ground up.

EJ
Athens, LA


Thanks EJ;
I had a Oly II years ago and sold it to a kid for real cheap to get him started in the hobby. Although it flew well, it was a great light air ship. Once the wind picked up I had problems (I'm sure like most) with penetration. I'm sure the S3014 makes the OLY III perform much better.

I really like the looks of the OLY III.

SO many great looking planes so little time :(

Kurt

[Dave Moore]

I took my Oly III flying Saturday and I am very pleased with it. It launches aggressively and handles very responsively. I didn't even notice I had put the wing tips on backwards. I must have done something right in the build, though, because it flew well from the get go.

I would like to have larger spoilers, the three-bays of spoiler aren't as effective as I would like. That's an easy change to make, though. I'll just expand them one bay inboard and outboard.

Dive tests show that I've got too much nose weight. I've taken out 3-1/2 ounces and still need to take out more. Ray, would you say your CG is conservative?

If this keeps up, I'll have excessive elevator deflection by the time I'm done. Somewhere I saw a thread on modifying a Skybench model for full flying stab. Can anyone point me to that thread?

Dave Moore

[ejett]

I worked on trying to get the Oly III radio set up and control throws matched up today. But, About noon I couldn't stand not to fly, so I grabbed my Aquila and headed out back to fly. After I got that out of my system, I had visitors that kept me out of the Sailplane Shop for an hour or so. My son helped me get the radio gear ready, but we did not finish before dark. Looks like tomorrow for the maiden if the weather cooperates.

40% chance of rain predicted, which probably means fair amount of convection in the area. Light winds - 5 mph. So, it definitely may happen tomorrow AM.

EJ

[ejett]

I managed to sneak out back today after lunch and put the Oly III up for the maiden.

After a couple short test glides, and encouraged I decided to put it up on the high start. The first climb out was a little on the steep side and it tried to stall about 100 ft up, but I pushed the nose over a little and got a little more height out of it. I have the flaps mixed to the ailerons so they act as inboard ailerons. I was very suprised how much crisper the plane is flown that way. It is very docile, yet very responsive as well. I was overcontrolling some at first, but after I settled down the plane did too. Imagine that.

The plane lands beautifully with the flaps. Very controllable. We must have guessed pretty close on the elevator compensation for the flaps. It may need just a touch more down elevator, but it was very easily controlled.

I made one more launch. Dialed in just a couple clicks of down elevator and it climbed out much better on the second launch. Given that the towhook is relocatable, but not adjustable, I will leave the towhook where it is for now and add a percent or two of down elevator in launch mode. It may take care of itself, because I think I can take some of the nose weight out and it may be perfect after retrimming for optimum glide. My towhook is now about 1/4" in front of the joiner. My CG is also close to centered on the joiner. It does want to pull up on a long hands off glide, so I believe some nose weight can come out.

Only got 1-1/2 flights in before the rain put me back at home, but I like the way it flys a lot. You will too.

EJ

[kzimmerm]

Too kewl!!!! All the best

[bobby legue]

E jett,
Ill bet you will take out a lot more weight before you are done.
Bob

[SOH]

I managed to sneak out back today after lunch and put the Oly III up for the maiden.

After a couple short test glides, and encouraged I decided to put it up on the high start. The first climb out was a little on the steep side and it tried to stall about 100 ft up, but I pushed the nose over a little and got a little more height out of it. I have the flaps mixed to the ailerons so they act as inboard ailerons. I was very suprised how much crisper the plane is flown that way. It is very docile, yet very responsive as well. I was overcontrolling some at first, but after I settled down the plane did too. Imagine that.

The plane lands beautifully with the flaps. Very controllable. We must have guessed pretty close on the elevator compensation for the flaps. It may need just a touch more down elevator, but it was very easily controlled.

I made one more launch. Dialed in just a couple clicks of down elevator and it climbed out much better on the second launch. Given that the towhook is relocatable, but not adjustable, I will leave the towhook where it is for now and add a percent or two of down elevator in launch mode. It may take care of itself, because I think I can take some of the nose weight out and it may be perfect after retrimming for optimum glide. My towhook is now about 1/4" in front of the joiner. My CG is also close to centered on the joiner. It does want to pull up on a long hands off glide, so I believe some nose weight can come out.

Only got 1-1/2 flights in before the rain put me back at home, but I like the way it flys a lot. You will too.

EJ


How do you get 1 1/2 flights? Once up, once down, once up, never down? :D

[atjurhs]

Somewhere I saw a thread on modifying a Skybench model for full flying stab. Can anyone point me to that thread?
Dave Moore

Here's how I did a Full-Flying Stab on my OLY2...

BTW, I also tripled the size of the Spoiler on my OLY2, and love it!

[schrederman]

Where did the stab belcrank come from? I need several of those!

Jack

[ejett]

How do you get 1 1/2 flights? Once up, once down, once up, never down? :D

If I had finished the flight before the rain started I would have had a least two before the rain ran me off the field. I came down in the rain on the second flight.


EJ

[kostuk]

Hi,
I started building my OlY III and have a question on the hatch over the joiner tube. The instructions say to study the plans to see how the latch goes together but the plans show no detail of the latch mechanism. In general it would be helpful to have a few more details on the plans.
Are there some sketches of this?
Also my kit did not have wire push rods or the brass tube joiner to connect them. Is this to be supplied by the builder?
Thanks,
Ray

[ejett]

Hi,
I started building my OlY III and have a question on the hatch over the joiner tube. The instructions say to study the plans to see how the latch goes together but the plans show no detail of the latch mechanism. In general it would be helpful to have a few more details on the plans.
Are there some sketches of this?
Also my kit did not have wire push rods or the brass tube joiner to connect them. Is this to be supplied by the builder?
Thanks,
Ray

There are building instructions on Skybench's website that describe how to build the plane, including the hatch. You can also look at the Skybird building tips for how to fit the hatch.
http://www.skybench.com/oly_iii_with_embedded_graphics.doc

The wire pushrods should have been in the kit. I'm sure you can get Ray to send some out to you. If you can find some 48" wire, you would not have to make a splice inside the fuse.

EJ
Athens, LA

[bobby legue]

I suggest that you add some inner nyrod tube or the like down the fuse inside. There has been some problems with pushrod flex. Add it especially near the rear of the fuse. Since the rod is pushing to provide elevator up this is where the flex can cost you terminal loss of control. I added a small piece of coffee straw over the wire where the pushrods cross eachother because I was afraid of rubbing causing radio interfierence. Thanks to McDonalds.
Thanks to Ray at Skybench for the plane I reccomend over any other plane Ive ever owned as well as flew.
Bob

[Dave Moore]

Hi,
I started building my OlY III and have a question on the hatch over the joiner tube. The instructions say to study the plans to see how the latch goes together but the plans show no detail of the latch mechanism. In general it would be helpful to have a few more details on the plans.
Are there some sketches of this?
Also my kit did not have wire push rods or the brass tube joiner to connect them. Is this to be supplied by the builder?
Thanks,
Ray
Ray,
If you would like I can take some pictures of my hatch.
I did away with the wire pushrods. I felt that the friction was far too great. I used Sullivan pushrods instead.
Dave Moore

[kostuk]

Hi Dave,
That would be great for the pictures of the hatch. I was wondering where the two rear pins go into the small wood block ? Do they go below the block or do you make holes in the block and insert them? Do you put wire in the rear block so the tubing slides over them?
I also went with Sullivan flex wire pushrods. THere was only a small weight penalty.
Thanks,
Ray

[jallen]

I’ve been flying my Oly III since early August and I really enjoy this great ship. I originally set my cg per plan at 3.5 inches from the leading edge, but since then I have been slowly removing weight and moving the cg further aft. My plane now weighs 63.5 oz and the cg is set at 4 inches from the leading edge. It seems every time I move it back the plane just flies better, is more responsive, and floats forever. Yesterdays dive test suggested that I must be approaching the optimum cg position, but I would appreciate hearing where some others have placed their cg with respect to the leading edge.
Thanks - Jim

[ejett]

I hinged my hatch near the rear and pin it though the front with a pin in the front hatch that extends through the bulkhead and into the top hatch. It works pretty good that way.

EJ

[bobby legue]

On mine I simply epoxied a screw eye in the second plywood hatch spacer, slightly opened. I placed the second one in the floor of the fuse in the forward most compartment. After placing the rubberband through the front eyehook and through the first former I hooked it on the slightly opened eyehook. For added stability A small piece of wire was epoxied to the hatch front and the appropiate sized hole was drilled into the nose block. Easy open and easy closed. There is no need to hinge or tape with this method. You must however secure everything in this area which you should anyways. There are advantages to this system. 1, Perfect consistant alignment. 2, Easy access. 3, Removable for maintenance purposes. 4, Canopy will shear from fuse in case of that "rare" less than perfect landing without breaking.
I hope I made this clear and easy to understand,
Bob

[Ray Hayes]

I'm Passing this on to those interested in arial photogrphy and electricpowered OLY lll.

Hi Ray--The motor is a RICH MOTO R35A-2 .(outrunner) I'm using a 40A ESC with BEC. The prop is a Graupner 11x6 folding prop. and the battery is a 11.1 lipoly, 2200ma. It will climb almost as steep as a winch will pull it up although it has no tow hook to try on my winch.
It will pull 40 amps full throttle when the battery is fresh but I rarely use full throttle. . Hope this helps. It is a barrel of fun!!! ---Morris PS I'm flying with 2.4 GH . Bought the module and RX from Xtreme Power Systems. I switch easily back and forth between 72 and 2.4 with my JR 9303. I have used the same RX in the Sky Bird and flown it out as far as I could see it with my new eyes. (had cataract surgery last July :-) )


Morris

Ray Hayes wrote:
Morris, Pretty cool, what Motor and battery did you put in the OLY lll ?

Thanks for sharing.


Ray Hayes
http://www.skybench.com
Home of Wood Crafters
----- Original Message -----
From: "Morris McKenna" <mckenna@knology.net>
To: <Skybench@Verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, October 12, 2007 12:01 PM
Subject: In Flight Video OLY III Electric



Hi Ray,
Thought you might be interested in seeing my in flight video from the
OLY III. Camera was mounted on top of the wing over the spar. This plane
also has my new 2.4 gig receiver from Xtreame . So far solid as a
rock---have had it in three different planes with no problems.

See Video at www.mckennasfun.com.
Morris

[efowlerpreston]

Here's another E-powered Oly III with flaps. Powered by NE Sail's mid-size combo - a medusa motor with multiplex gearbox (which you can't see) with 2100 lipoly. I moved the servos back one bay to create more room for the battery. I still had to add weight in the nose to get the plane to balance. I flew this plane for the first time early this morning for an hour in calm air. Far exceeded my expectations. I can tell I will learn a lot flying this plane.

[mr ray]

Hi Guys, I read all the threads in this forum and really enjoyed them. I have been flying a gentle lady and a sophisticated lady for two years from a hi- start and really want to move up to something larger that penetrates and floats better. I had my eye on an ava res glider but as I am retired that is just too expensive. This forum has gotten me excited about building and flying an oly3. It is just a beautiful glider. Is this a practical plan. The club I belong to is 99% gas motors and the field I'm relegated to is a cow pasture, this is okay but it has a very uneven surface. I read somewhere that the oly 3 is not as rugged as the oly 2,but is it tough enough to land on uneven ground? Also the guys that put there wingtips on backwards,do your planes fly just as well or better or about the same as if you had put the tips on as the plan calls for? Thanks for reading this and any advice would be appreciated as there is no one here to ask for it.....Ray

[tunabiker]

I made mine and have delighted in how it flies...right off the plans with only .007 carbon fiber on both top and bottom spars. She is quite durable as my hard landings have put her through her paces. On launch, I get some flex, but nothing has broken yet. Empennage is vulnerable, though, so some CR reinforcing just in front of the vertical stab. would be wise. I used Sullivan push rods instead of the wires Ray sent, and they have been fine...just watch the expansion on warm mornings as the fuse is so long they pick up a noticeable amount of length!

The CG for me is wonderful as noted on the plans...just in front of the joiner bar with the launch hook just on it. Nice, steep launch, but very manageable. I use a hi-start most of the time, but on the club winch I can take a bit of zoom and add to the starting height.

I am more than happy with my ship and would recommend it to anyone who likes RES and Woodies...both glide and penetration are exceptional (IMHO). Also, I really like the looks of the nose, like a 747 from the front!

Good luck. It's worth the effort. If you're really stuck on Oly II, the "S" version from Ray is excellent, too...uses the Selig airfoil which makes it penetrate much better.
Bill

[mr ray]

Your words are really encouraging. And as for the cf I'll definitely do that also. Is your hi-start for 3 meter planes and what kind of height are you getting with a mild breeze on launch? Also do they signal and pick up thermals as well as I have read that they do? Have to wait till January to order but will get everything lined up for then. ..Ray

[schrederman]

Mr. Ray,

Go for it. You really don't give up anything to the Avas and Sopranos, etc., except that you won't be throwing $1,300- hooked up to that high start. :D I've built 3 of Ray's kits and they're as good as anything out there right now.

Jack

[atmosteve]

.. Not to mention penetration compared to the ultra floaters, the Oly III has it in spades for a big wood sailplane, really truly versatile for wood.

In breezes around 6-8 knots, my O3 has no probs stretching the histart all the way to the top, up to 600 feet of histsart. I've also flown it in up to 20 knots of wind, which is a little crazy, but real fun and safe in the knowledge that the 0.014" carbon spar caps help keep things together on the launches.

Its a great fly, enjoy the build!

steve.


PS- not a flight of my Sky bench gliders happens without me thinking of Bob. I never met Bob, but we exchanged a number of PM's and he was the real deal and a true gentlemen. I'm sure Bob looks over my O3, its got out of all sorts of strife miraculously, i can't begin to list the odd happenings.

[GDbot]

"""PS- not a flight of my Sky bench gliders happens without me thinking of Bob. I never met Bob, but we exchanged a number of PM's and he was the real deal and a true gentlemen. I'm sure Bob looks over my O3, its got out of all sorts of strife miraculously, i can't begin to list the odd happenings.
atmosteve is online now Send a private message to atmosteve """Find More Posts by atmosteve Reply With Quote

I want you to begin to list some of the odd happenings, they are evidence for my research project about how the WHOLE Universe is put together and operates.

I wanted to meet Bob after reading his posts here on RCG and his build instructions on the Skybench website, and he only lived on the other side of the mountain from me. Only missed the opportunity by a couple months. Bummer Some parts of life suck. Oh well..........

I am waiting for dwells to catch up to me on his OLY 3 build over on the woodie thread, so we are hovering like vultures on this thread for building tips. Post pics and insight here and we will pounce with wisdom from the Ancients. LOL! Buena Suerte.

[mr ray]

I sure do appreciate the replies and information from you gentlemen. I'm sure going to buy and build the oly III and will post pics as I go along. Thanks again. ..Ray

[mr ray]

I sure will post pics as I go along. It won't happen until the end of January. Thanks a lot guys....Ray

[n0irw]

I'm ordering an Oly III today. All the build info is great and has me wanting one. However, I do have a couple of projects in front of it......such as a Hanger 9 95" Cessna 182 ARF.....An Airtronics Aquila. I will D-tube the wing per the Miller Mod and add .007 CF to the top and bottom of the spar, otherwise, box stock. I have had 2 Oly II's over the years, the current one is 19 years old and still flying great. In fact I flew it in the TNT for RES.....

Also a question for Ray, does the Aquila with the Miller Mod qualify for Nostalgia??? Do you plan on having a Woodie contest in 2010??

Thanks,

Kevin O'Dell