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View Full Version : Question Stork 2 Pro - Pic needed!


jfreeman
Oct 14, 2006, 04:51 PM
Specific to the "non-electric" version, could someone post a close up picture of their equipment install in the nose? I'd like to see how your servos, receiver, and battery are installed....

My assumption is that you should endeavor to adjust everything so the control horns for the vtail servos are the same length? Not sure I can make that work....

Most of the threads on here are for the electric version.

Your effort is appreciated!

John.

ShredAir
Oct 14, 2006, 05:02 PM
Yes, on the V-tail version, both servo arms must be equal length. You'll end up using the innermost hole on the servo arms. I have the X-tail version which is very different.

Dieter Mahlein, ShredAir

jfreeman
Oct 14, 2006, 05:07 PM
Hi Dieter, thanks, your advice is always appreciated.

I'm a Texas Aggie, so following written instructions is difficult. Can you post a picture of a "standard" installation for me to look at? I do best when folks show me pictures and point.... :D

Thanks,

John.

SPasierb
Oct 14, 2006, 05:32 PM
Here's all I've got -- pretty good view of the servos (Voltz). V-Tail version. Hope it helps. The Rx sat on top of the battery.

jfreeman
Oct 14, 2006, 05:48 PM
Great pic! Thanks!

So here's what I'm working with - note that the servo cutouts were already there - the 368's dropped right in nice and neat, but see the offset? The pushrod on the left (for left vtail, since servos mount upside down) strikes the backside of the rearmost servo arm....

Yours are "in line" which seems easier to connect up.

Suggestions?

SPasierb
Oct 14, 2006, 06:51 PM
You're just going to have to use long arms to reach over. Seems like a tight fit with the one pushrod passing over the first servo to reach the second. You will need only a tiny amount of servo travel to generate a whole lot of surface travel -- not the most idea situation.

jfreeman
Oct 14, 2006, 06:59 PM
Guess I'll have to.....

Tried to put a couple of small bends in the pushrod to get around the rear servo without binding and ruined the pushrod.

It was hollow. Who knew. :(

JF

dhauch
Oct 14, 2006, 07:01 PM
hi,
here are some longer horns you can use.

just a thought, you could open up the holes and move the servos over where there suppose to be and use shorter horns.

I don't know how thick that material is on this model, so you may have to reinforce the bigger holes then.

dave
www.git-r-built.com

jfreeman
Oct 14, 2006, 07:06 PM
I really wish I knew why the manufacturer offset them to such a degree....very puzzling.

Sure would be nice to get a pic of an install given the same fuse as mine!

Anyone?

jfreeman
Oct 14, 2006, 07:10 PM
If I move the rearmost servo over to the right as you look at it, the pushrod will bind on the outside, even with the clevis on the innermost hole.

The front one could go a miniscule amount to the left as you look at it, but it is almost butted up against the on/off switch as it is.....

So, if I use arms of dissimilar length and electronically control throw amount, etc, is that a reasonable solution that everyone can live with?

JF

ShredAir
Oct 14, 2006, 07:23 PM
I was wrong, I thought the servos were installed side-by-side... looks like long servo arms are needed. Nothing wrong with that...

Dieter Mahlein, ShredAir

jfreeman
Oct 14, 2006, 07:28 PM
Cool, I'll give it a try....

Anyone know who sells these hollow alloy pushrods?

Good idea, keeps the weight low....

JF

bobby legue
Oct 14, 2006, 09:11 PM
Put a shim under the forward servo.