Wall Powered Transmitter?

[orenda635]

I'm using the Hitec USB interlink to use one of my old transmitters as a joystick. Problem is, the interlink does not supply power so the electronic components still need the battery to run.

Rather than just buy a bigger battery for longer computer flight times, is there some way I could hook up a transmitter to run off household power via an AC/DC adapter? The radio transmitter itself is toast on this TX so it's unlikely I'll ever be using it for RC again. It's a later model Futaba Skysport 4.

[Peter Khor]

Most of the power is drawn by the RF section of the TX, so if your RF section is toast, battery life shouldn't really be a problem; alternatively if the RF section is toast AND drawing a lot more power, then you might want to fix that first :D. In most instances, taking out the crystal should 'shutdown' the RF portion of the circuitry. Finally, you could run it off any other DC source; I would use a regulated source though.

[z-matrix]

I'm using the Hitec USB interlink to use one of my old transmitters as a joystick. Problem is, the interlink does not supply power so the electronic components still need the battery to run.

Rather than just buy a bigger battery for longer computer flight times, is there some way I could hook up a transmitter to run off household power via an AC/DC adapter? The radio transmitter itself is toast on this TX so it's unlikely I'll ever be using it for RC again. It's a later model Futaba Skysport 4.
hehe
;>
you say it is connected to your computer and still needs a battery to run?

does your equipment has dc offset at ground?

if not, you can connect it to USB 5V with a step up converter (5V 0.5A max typical.) or connect it to +12V inside your PC. that will handle about 8 AMPERs

if it has dc offset, then you have to use an isolated dc/dc converter of any kind i guess.

[AndyOne]

I run my sim TX, Futaba 8UP, from a spare USB outlet with a 5v to 9v DC/DC converter. I'm fairly certain I connected the grounds together without any problems.

I made my own voltage converter but you could probably use an AnyVolt-mini converter from Dimension Engineering as long as you can bypass the RF output by connecting through the trainer input there shouldn't be any trouble with it drawing too much current.

Andy.

[Windrider53]

I am currently using an old Airtronics SR series transmitter with my simulator. I found that if I removed the RF section, a simple plug-in module, I can run it off of the 5V of the USB with out any trouble at all. The encoder chip is rated from 5V to 12V. If I remember correctly, without the RF section it only draws about 50mA.

[bravokilo]

Hi!, I am with Windrider53. Yep, without the RF section, drain should be a lot less. Trainer's chord outlet can give you access to the encode only. Older radios not using IC used the 9.6 volts in its encoder but IC encoders such as the digital commander requires only 5volts, so the computer can supply this.

iIf the above is not possible, just use clips to clip on the Plus and minus terminals of the battery compartment(you have to find which one). There might commercially availbale regulated power supply that is plugged into the wall. A 200 MA unit should do if the rf is disconnected. The fully charged voltage of a nicad cell is 1.4v. Multply that by 8 cells=11.2V. so, ok for up this voltage. If you cannot find such PS, get a computer PS and tap the yellow and black lines for 12volts. Put an LM7810 or a 340-10 a 317 voltage regulator. better use the 7810./ It's three legged. Center to ground, left pin input(12v), right pin output (10V). That should work.(no need to raise the volts to 11v). Put a small capacitor input to ground and output to ground to prevent oscillation(a .01 or .001).


BravoKilo