Revell N/S Savannah rc upgrade

[Spader]

Well I got to explain situation. I had that small chinese twin electric aircraft, wich is still operable, but liftime are going close to end. Now, since my daughter is eager to control something via R/C i decided to make her small RC boat. I found in my local shop scale boat model of N/S savannah wich is actualy single engine boat, but there is enough space to squeeze in two 180 size electromotors. Steering would be via switching one motor off or forward when both motors are running. I planned to use that system, beacose I already have it. Anyway, my question (new and edited one) :D :

Do you have some good link with info about homebuilt shafts and props?

Update: On page 2 starts new boat build log, I didn't want to start new thread since it is same first boat, just changed plans. :o :D

[Spader]

16 views and no help? At least some link with homebuilt stuff...

[excotec]

There are plenty of home built drive shafts and stuffing boxes on here. You may want to try the search function or even google. I would suggest dumping the radio and getting one that would make the conversion easier. There are even a couple of threads that discuss converting static rc models to RC.

On another note welcome to RC Groups and give people a chance to answer on here. 16 views is not that many. It is a Holiday a most people are either still asleep, spending time with family or out enjoying the models if the weather is nice.

[Spader]

I am aware that buing new equipement would be better, but i am trying to stay cheap, since it will be only a toy.

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

You can find two links on stuffing tubes here... ;)

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=346768

[Spader]

Thanks. I actualy reconsidered my rc upgrade idea , and decided that I need new RC anyway, and my local shop is offering 3 channel RC 35 MHz with one servo for 98 $. You wouldn't belive, but it is actualy cheap. I have one cheaper offer, but I am not sure will I get servo in the package. Plus , I will need ESC with servo reverse for full control. I am hoping to save some money buy making my own tube and prop, but I'll probbably mess it up :D since I don't have any experoence in boat building. And I can't find parts for the job. :(
Ahh, it seems that mastercard will have to do the job :D

[Spader]

Update. I found Futaba Attack 2ER with 2 servos for 80 $, it is one channel less, but I think it is better to buy futaba, then Jamara.

[Spader]

Another beginner question:

Would classic plastic model glue work with hull, or should I use Epoxy instead?

My first idea was classic model glue + silicone putty to seal it (model has numerous windows on the hull. Or maybe just glue clear plastic on it?

P.S. I'll put pics of work in progress here...soon...my small kid allow only to work between 10 PM and midnight. :rolleyes:

[excotec]

For filling holes your best bet would be a bondo. I am not sure if they have that in croatia. Look in the auto repair section of the hardware store for the stuff they use to repair holes in cars.

[steveciambrone]

For a plastic model, plastic glue will work fine, I prefer the liquid type vs the thick bodied glue. If you want a lifetime supply by a quart of MEK, it works great. The last few plastic models I built using MEK are holding up fine and the joints are just as strong. For filler for a plastic model use a plastic model filler like Squadron Green or white putty, Tamaya has a filler to that is very good also.

Really Bondo? I would never use this on a plastic model, or any model, too Heavy and it stinks. I do not use any of the polyester based resins anymore, they stink "Literally". And that darn catalyist can make you blind if it spashes in your eyes. Did I say it stinks. The epoxy resins like West systems and others work a lot easier and do not Stink. Add some Micro balloons when you need a filler and it can be very light weight.

Thanks
Steve

[Massey]

I recomend using a CA (superglue) type glue to seal the hull. If your LHS has a kicker or accelerant then I would use that as well, if not just sprinkle a little baking soda on the CA and it will cure in less than a socond. For putting the rest of the hull together I would use the normal model glue of your choice. MEK stands for Methol Ethol Keytone if you didnt know already. (nasty smelly stuff) As for the radio I would go for the Futaba better brand and better price. You should not need more than 2 channels for this litlte boat (ship)

Massey

[Spader]

Thanks! I glued hull with classic revell glue (one with the needle on top), then I sealed remaining goles with 5 min epoxy. :D I had alignement problem with hull, there was big hole in the mid section. I had an hour of problems with sanding to get it align as much as I can. I'll post pictures as soon as I resize them. :)

[Spader]

Well, I can thank the one who invented revolving creditcard for yesterday shopping. :rolleyes:

1) Futaba attack 2ER + 2 servo (I think it is 3003) 80 $ (40 MHZ AM)

P.S. I would like input about this one, quality range, interference. Place where I am gonna test my boat has interference at about 35 Mhz (small military base was kind enough to measure interference for local fly guys.)

2) LRP Runner ESC with full reverse, heat sink, AI setup, waterproof 60 Amp, BEC 5 V if I am correct. cca 53 $ :censored:

For me that is too much, but I am happy with the quality of hardware. :D

Here are pics of goodies and hull after gluing.

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/248/03/pic11157526495.jpg

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/248/02/pic21157525422.jpg

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/248/03/pic31157527538.jpg

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/248/03/pic41157528775.jpg

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/248/04/pic51157529614.jpg

Next pictures are here to present place where front hatch should be. I planned to cut out between that four holes, glue square piece od plastic from the bottom, slightly smaller than front deck opening, put a piece of rubber for sealing and tighten with screws (i'll probbably put small wooden piece below screws).

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/248/04/pic61157530726.jpg

http://img15.imgspot.com/u/06/248/05/pic71157534686.jpg

[Spader]

No pictures today, beacouse I spent almost two hours dismantling old telescopic antenna for stuffing tube, shaft will be made from metal mine for pen. I realy don't know how to translate this beter to english. I dismantled old pen with metal mine. It has solid rigidity. For test run, I will use prop that goes with kit. I know, it is not the best wuality, but it has right diameter (cca 13 mm), five blades , high pitch. I will record that with my my camera.

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

In which part of the world are located?
Most of us assume you can go to a hardware store and buy the materials you need. With out that resource, a lot of us would be at a loss.

Very creative use of materials. :cool: :cool:
Can't wait to see pics,...
Unfortunately, your links seem to have used up their available bandwith for the morning.

If you click the http://static.rcgroups.com/forums/images/buttons/reply.gif button under the bottom left corner of the messages, you can use the "manage Attachments" button to upload your images and attach them to your message for everyone to see.

[Spader]

Ok, sorry. I think that I will gave up from imgspot. :mad:

Here are the pictures. Shaft was made from dismantled telescopic antenna and some weird steel thet managed to destroy my steel saw! Hard as hell! :eek:

[Spader]

I got one question too..I planned to grease tube with lithium grease I have arround. Would it be ok? I read here that some grease types love to harden on low temperatures. :confused:

[Boatfox]

I got one question too..I planned to grease tube with lithium grease I have arround. Would it be ok? I read here that some grease types love to harden on low temperatures. :confused:
It may be a little thick for a low power motor. Maybe you can thin it out with another oil to free up some shaft power.

[Spader]

That is good idea.I'll try it. Work is stuck at the moment, due to waiting that my shop order new props. I don't want to mess up with rudder, so I have to wait for prop.

[Spader]

Hi!

Just an quick update. I managed to install tube, but alignment is little missed :o
I think I stll can move it a little...I hope to get it mote straight. I finaly found decent small store with scres, washers and emediately buyed 3mm stock for next ten shafts. Since I still have ordering problems with prop, I'll try to make my own. I downloaded that pic (page 1 of this thread), scaled it to 21mm and hopefuly make my own prop. So, how thick piece of metal should I use 1mm?
...brass? When we were kids, we used metal cover from glass jars of marmelade. Any sugestions? I have that idea that I will have to go to large home store for that and buy a load of it.

I will make separate compartment in fromt of hull for power pack, so I can get it out as I wish, and seal it from the rest of the boat. ESC is waterproof so my only concern is reciver. I am not sure is reciver generating a lot of heat? If not I can wrap it in plastic bag and seal it. Ater all it is pretty small boat.

[Spader]

Update! I decided to use graphite grease. This is advice from our local modelers. Hope it will work. I test run ESC and geared motor yesterday. It goes perfect. Plenty of torque and power. I had to go up to full throttle, then ESC started motor, that it probbably that "AI" adjusting. I have to do that on dry. Mounted also rudder, stock kit will be used. I fixed it with bison kit. Main deck were painted in green and test balance was conducted.
I decided to seal boat complete. Wires will be hide under "chimney" for charge. Probbably, that part of the ship will remain free for later acess to reciver and ESC. I will leave propulsion, motor and servo in boat...for now. New pictures are comming tomorow

[Spader]

I was practising my XingYi yesterday, so only minor paint job are done on the rudder and prop, which was sucsesfuly glued with epoxy on the end of the shaft. I am in process of soldering motor and other hardvare, and install all of this in boat this evening I hope. I managed to found graphite grease or black grease as someone call it. It has temp range from -10 to +70 degrees celsius. I hope that it will work. Here are two quick pictures taken yesterday with my camera on Nokia cell phone. It was taken in speed and i didn't have my olympus with me. :rolleyes:

[Spader]

I finaly installed all of the equipment in the hull, and conducted firt run in the tub. :D
Well, it ended with leaking hull (ok few minutes of work), bad prop (it has very high pitch) and caused heavy tilting, actualy dangerously close to top of the hull. :(
Not to mention, that reverse running had heavy run to left. All of that is actualy prety easy to repair but major problem remains, very unstable hull. :confused:
I may try to add some styro to ship sides and some lead weight to bottom, but than I will lose scale look totaly. :mad:

Now I am going to investigate option no. 2, buying real RC boat kit. :D

Any advise to solve boat instability is welcome. :rolleyes:

[Massey]

ballasting the boat and keeping the weight low as possible will help the instability problems. On plastic conversions I like to put my waterline just below the real waterline, This makes the boat look loaded but not unrealistic.

Massey

[Spader]

This is 47 cm long boat, and cca 7-10 cm wide. Ok, so lead will solve instability problem, but prop problem remains. I'll have to make my own prop . :eek:
Don't expect pictures of that one! :D

I'll planned 4 bladed prop, but as I can see , it would probbaby be wiser to made 2 bladed prop an smaller amount of pitch. Any aproximations of lead weight?

I'll slow down with my working sessions, wife i complaining about too much time in garage... :rolleyes:

Step 1. Sealing hull.
Step 2. Fixing hardvare and adding ballast. (I need advice on that one!)
Step 3. New rudder...mush bigger and soldered!
Step 4. New prop making and installing
Step 5. New wet test. :(

[Spader]

I saw that Springer class utility boats yesterday, and I was so delighted, that I called my suplier (althought I am not fond of that shop) and ordered speed 480, custom made shaft and box and prop i think it was arround 35 mm diameter. :D
I always liked working boat, and this one look so simple to built and with some detailing, it could look very realistic. :cool:

[Spader]

Well, I just spent another 30 $ . :rolleyes:
Custom made shaft and tube, 35 mm 2 blade prop and Jamara SPEED 480 BB HS :D
Looks like fun when I start building Springer. I am still missing wood planks for sides, fore and aft.

[Spader]

Started yesterday, 50 min. of work and here are results. :D
Material:

Sides - 12 mm plywood
Bottom - 2 mm balsa, reinforced with 4mm thich softwood stripes
Top hull - 12 mm plywood or maybe that 4mm softwood (3 cm wide). :confused:
Super structure - Don't know. maybe cardboard combined with softwood.

Drive - Jamara speed 460 HS BB :cool: , custom 17 cm shaft, prop 38 mm 2 blade racing prop. (only prop they had!) :(

Question: I just remembered that i have large compressed cardboard (5 mm thich, somewhat softer than ply). Could it serve as hull top?

[excotec]

Spader,
You should start a new build log with the springer.

[Spader]

Ok, well then this topic is closed!