Another engine run in thread :) - lst2 & misc questions

[carlhako]

Hi Guys

A few questions regarding running in my engine when i get it, stock
mach 427 on a team losi lst2. I think i shall do the heat cycling
method http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php most new engine run
in threads on lstcentral.com suggest doing this method. Now, i emailed
the guy that runs http://www.massivemods.com/ (they modify engines to
get more power) regarding this run in method he replied with

>Hi Carl
>
>That's not a bad method , very similar to mine except the heat cycle as such
>really only applies to lapped iron engines , in aluminium engines its not as
>much a nessecity, you do however need to get the engine real hot on the
>first run. We have our own run in method in the URL here
>
>http://www.massivemods.com/Feedback/viewtopic.php?t=7
>
>between this one and the RB mods one youre in a good place
>
>Remember hotter is better and only use the temp gun to see if the engine is
>hot enough
>
>Cheers

now for the questions

Doc if you read this thread how did you run in the engine on your
savage ive heard you have 10+gallons through that motor and still
running good?

On the heat cycling guide it said to run the engine only slightly rich
when running it in, i guess i can work out its only running slight rich
by looking if fuel is spitting out of the exhaust? and the engine temps
will rise quickly and get high? also in massivemods guide he says
"Start engine and quickly tune HSN to clean 2 stroke mode" whats this
meen?

ok and with the misc questions
I think ill go with 25% nitro?
I have ordered a venom failsafe/smart temp. Where would i mount this
thing, ive read the manual off their website it sais to mount it where
i can see it with the shell on? Does anyone have pics of one on their
car with one? i would think i would be too easy to break being on the
outside of the shell
I still have to buy a charger, Is it really nessisary to have one of
these $150+ chargers like a duratrax ice or whatever?

Are there many aussie rc'ers on here?

Thanks for any replies

[DanTXD]

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1156341780.307064.320900@m79g2000cwm.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi Guys
>
> A few questions regarding running in my engine when i get it, stock
> mach 427 on a team losi lst2. I think i shall do the heat cycling
> method http://www.rbmods.net/enginetempering.php most new engine run
> in threads on lstcentral.com suggest doing this method. Now, i emailed
> the guy that runs http://www.massivemods.com/ (they modify engines to
> get more power) regarding this run in method he replied with
>
>>Hi Carl
>>
>>That's not a bad method , very similar to mine except the heat cycle as
>>such
>>really only applies to lapped iron engines , in aluminium engines its not
>>as
>>much a nessecity, you do however need to get the engine real hot on the
>>first run. We have our own run in method in the URL here
>>
>>http://www.massivemods.com/Feedback/viewtopic.php?t=7
>>
>>between this one and the RB mods one youre in a good place
>>
>>Remember hotter is better and only use the temp gun to see if the engine
>>is
>>hot enough
>>
>>Cheers
>
> now for the questions
>
> Doc if you read this thread how did you run in the engine on your
> savage ive heard you have 10+gallons through that motor and still
> running good?

A lot of people have different methods, and TBH it doesn't seem to make much
difference. My advice, would be to just do as the manual says - then if it
does randomly die prematurely you don't have to lie when making a warranty
claim - also the manual is the way the people that designed the engine
recommend doing it, so they probably know best.

> On the heat cycling guide it said to run the engine only slightly rich
> when running it in, i guess i can work out its only running slight rich
> by looking if fuel is spitting out of the exhaust? and the engine temps
> will rise quickly and get high? also in massivemods guide he says
> "Start engine and quickly tune HSN to clean 2 stroke mode" whats this
> meen?

I assume he means by that, quickly tune it to where you want it running.
I.e. a nice smoke trail, a smooth sound and no sloppyness, with temps about
where you want them.

> ok and with the misc questions
> I think ill go with 25% nitro?

S'fine - try go with a decent brand, can you get Byron over there? Or
O'Donnell?

> I have ordered a venom failsafe/smart temp. Where would i mount this
> thing, ive read the manual off their website it sais to mount it where
> i can see it with the shell on? Does anyone have pics of one on their
> car with one? i would think i would be too easy to break being on the
> outside of the shell

Can't help here, never used a temp gun :-)

> I still have to buy a charger, Is it really nessisary to have one of
> these $150+ chargers like a duratrax ice or whatever?

Whats the charger for? RX and TX? Rotostart? Answer to the question
assuming it is, no it's not. Just get a cheapo over night one, they've
served me well for years now. Granted people will tell you it's bad for
your batteries, but I'd never had any crap out.

> Are there many aussie rc'ers on here?
>

I beleive Dre is an Aussie.

--
Dan - on his PC

[M78Ultra]

Actually an overnight (trickle) charger would/should be safer on your
battery than fast charging..assuming it has some sort of peak
detection/cutoff and cannot overcharge. (or just be sure to unplug in
proper time frame)
Although, I generally prefer fast charging simply due to time. (Seems the
batts are never peaked when your ready to go)
A mixture, which I do sometimes, of fast charging (when you need it quick)
and a slow trickle charge (when I am just refreshing because of non use)
works pretty well.
Kepping the batts cycled and watching that they do not overheat is the key.

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4l38pjF2ah7U1@individual.net...
> "carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1156341780.307064.320900@m79g2000cwm.googlegr oups.com...
>
> Whats the charger for? RX and TX? Rotostart? Answer to the question
> assuming it is, no it's not. Just get a cheapo over night one, they've
> served me well for years now. Granted people will tell you it's bad for
> your batteries, but I'd never had any crap out.

[carlhako]

The batteries in the tx are just AA's no problem there ill just use my
AA charger or use alkalines. Ill just go with a cheapo overnight
trickle charger i dont have any problems with that. Has anyone tried
the cheap NiMH AA's off ebay? like these ones
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12-AA-2600mAh-1-2V-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Batteries-New_W0QQitemZ160021432753QQihZ006QQcategoryZ43445Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Im not sure on those brands of fuel never seen them but one of the
LHS's here basically run the popular hobby club they mix up their own
fuels ill use that stuff.


Dan when do you get your sts .30 ? if i replace the stock lst2 engine i
think it will be one of them. all these plans for the car i dont even
have yet lol

[\Doc\]

Inline...................

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1156341780.307064.320900@m79g2000cwm.googlegr oups.com...

> now for the questions
>
> Doc if you read this thread how did you run in the engine on your
> savage ive heard you have 10+gallons through that motor and still
> running good?

15+ gallons actually, <almost at the 16 gallon mark>. Still wheelieing into
3rd gear. Here's how I do it.

First and foremost, squirt a few drops of Marvel Mystery Oil or other
after-run oil down the carb and hand crank a few times before starting to
lube everything up.

Run the first tank as rich as you possibly can at idle. You will have to
bump up the idle speed and leave the glow plug ignitor attached in all
likelihood. You can blip the throttle here and there to clear it out. I
put my stuff up on a truck stand for this first tank. When the 1st tank is
almost empty, plug the exhaust and kill the motor. Don't let it run out of
fuel. Remove the glow plug and while watching the piston, position the
motor at BTC (bottom dead center). Allow the motor to completely cool.

Next 4 tanks should be spent slowly leaning the HSN and gradually raising
temps. Do not go WOT for more than 2 seconds at a time during this phase,
and "drive nice." Stay out of the grass and dirt and stick to smooth, low
resistance surfaces. When each tank is almost empty, kill the motor by
plugging the exhaust, and again position the piston at BTC and allow to
completely cool.

Tanks 5-6 are spent performance tuning and by tank 7 you're beating the
living piss out of it.

This is a method of heat cycling that slowly raises temps and allows the
parts to slowly wear in. If you ask 100 people how to break in an engine
you'll get 101 different answers. This method works for me. You figure out
which one works for you!

> On the heat cycling guide it said to run the engine only slightly rich
> when running it in, i guess i can work out its only running slight rich
> by looking if fuel is spitting out of the exhaust? and the engine temps
> will rise quickly and get high? also in massivemods guide he says
> "Start engine and quickly tune HSN to clean 2 stroke mode" whats this
> meen?

If it's rich there will be tons of smoke, a stinging odor and fuel droplets
spitting out the exhaust. Temps will generally not exceed 200* at this
setting. A 2-stroke motor running escessively rich will 4-stroke, where
it's only firing every-other compression stroke. You can tell by the sound.
It's hard to describe. You certainly want the engine 2-stroking, but as
rich as possible.

> ok and with the misc questions
> I think ill go with 25% nitro?

Break it in with whatever fuel you'll be running. The Mach engines like
20-25%. <I run two Mach .26's on my buggy and truggy>

> I have ordered a venom failsafe/smart temp. Where would i mount this
> thing, ive read the manual off their website it sais to mount it where
> i can see it with the shell on?

Good luck. I've had nothing but bad experiences with these things. Venom
sent me 4 in a row and all were BAD. I prefer the MIP on-board temp gauges
and mechanical failsafes.

>Does anyone have pics of one on their
> car with one?

E-Mail me gmc(underscore)man(at)adelphia(dot)net and I'll send you some pics
of my temp gauge installs.

>i would think i would be too easy to break being on the
> outside of the shell
> I still have to buy a charger, Is it really nessisary to have one of
> these $150+ chargers like a duratrax ice or whatever?

Nope. I use a $20 Radio Shack charger for my tx AA's and a Great Places
peak charger <$30> for my rx hump packs.

HTH,

Doc

[M78Ultra]

I have been using Nexcell AA's for quite some time..(they definately pay for
themselves over standard batts)
However some electronic items don't like them as they are 1.2volts instead
of 1.5volt...
I have never had a problem with them though.
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&satitle=nexcell

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1156373640.197077.128770@p79g2000cwp.googlegr oups.com...
> The batteries in the tx are just AA's no problem there ill just use my
> AA charger or use alkalines. Ill just go with a cheapo overnight
> trickle charger i dont have any problems with that. Has anyone tried
> the cheap NiMH AA's off ebay? like these ones
>
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12-AA-2600mAh-1-2V-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Batteries-New_W0QQitemZ160021432753QQihZ006QQcategoryZ43445Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>

[DanTXD]

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1156373640.197077.128770@p79g2000cwp.googlegr oups.com...
> The batteries in the tx are just AA's no problem there ill just use my
> AA charger or use alkalines. Ill just go with a cheapo overnight
> trickle charger i dont have any problems with that. Has anyone tried
> the cheap NiMH AA's off ebay? like these ones
> http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12-AA-2600mAh-1-2V-Ni-MH-Rechargeable-Batteries-New_W0QQitemZ160021432753QQihZ006QQcategoryZ43445Q QrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> Im not sure on those brands of fuel never seen them but one of the
> LHS's here basically run the popular hobby club they mix up their own
> fuels ill use that stuff.
>
>
> Dan when do you get your sts .30 ? if i replace the stock lst2 engine i
> think it will be one of them. all these plans for the car i dont even
> have yet lol


It's in the post somewhere I beleive :-)

--
Dan - on his PC

[Dale Porter]

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote
>
> Are there many aussie rc'ers on here?
>

That's a yes. I'm in Melbourne. Where are you?

Cheers,
Dale

[carlhako]

Dale Porter wrote:
> "carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote
> >
> > Are there many aussie rc'ers on here?
> >
>
> That's a yes. I'm in Melbourne. Where are you?
>
> Cheers,
> Dale

Im in Townsville, north QLD :)

I think ill go with the heat cycling method, bring engine upto temp for
a few minuits then cool down repeativly and slowly increase the time
for about 8 tanks then thrash it.

[\Doc\]

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1156637283.473679.218050@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>
> Dale Porter wrote:
>> "carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote
>> >
>> > Are there many aussie rc'ers on here?
>> >
>>
>> That's a yes. I'm in Melbourne. Where are you?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Dale
>
> Im in Townsville, north QLD :)
>
> I think ill go with the heat cycling method, bring engine upto temp for
> a few minuits then cool down repeativly and slowly increase the time
> for about 8 tanks then thrash it.

Sounds like a plan. Bear in mind while it's sloppy rich temps won't exceed
175* or so, so you'll have to lean it (SLOWLY!!!) to get the temps up to
where it'll make a difference. I just broke in a new piston/sleeve this PM.
1 tank at idle, 4 tanks slobbering rich slow driving, then leaned it out
tanks 5-6. I ran two tanks thru it to fine tune and really harped on it.
Runs like new!

Doc