Cleaning bearings

[crabbdean]

I started to pull my car apart last night to do maintenance after my
run on the weekend. The wheels have a gritty sound after running it
around on the dirt. I'm assuming its best to clean these out. Is this
something you should do after every run? Or after a sandy/dusty run
that results in the gritty sound in the bearings? How often do you do
it?

Also, not being familiar with bearings, what is the best way to clean
them? Do you stray them out with some mechanical spray cleaner and
then re-grease them? I'm assuming in re-greasing you just try to force
grease into the bearing? As you can tell I really don't have much of a
clue here so I'm trying to make it up and also rely on any info I get
off here.

I was also thinking, how often do you have to pull the drift shaft
apart and re-grease that? After every gritty run also or does it last
a bit longer?

Ta
Dean

[DanTXD]

"crabbdean" <crabbd@tabcorp.com.au> wrote in message
news:1154489219.757702.177270@s13g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I started to pull my car apart last night to do maintenance after my
> run on the weekend. The wheels have a gritty sound after running it
> around on the dirt. I'm assuming its best to clean these out. Is this
> something you should do after every run? Or after a sandy/dusty run
> that results in the gritty sound in the bearings? How often do you do
> it?
>
> Also, not being familiar with bearings, what is the best way to clean
> them? Do you stray them out with some mechanical spray cleaner and
> then re-grease them? I'm assuming in re-greasing you just try to force
> grease into the bearing? As you can tell I really don't have much of a
> clue here so I'm trying to make it up and also rely on any info I get
> off here.
>
> I was also thinking, how often do you have to pull the drift shaft
> apart and re-grease that? After every gritty run also or does it last
> a bit longer?
>
> Ta
> Dean
>

The bearings are all metal or rubber sealed so it shouldn't be a problem.
When I do clean mine, and frankly, it's rare hehehe :-) I tend to just
blast some water in the bearing areas, to get all the crap out, then douse
it with a little WD-40 to stop it all seizing up. DO NOT grease the
bearings, or indeed any external gears - as the grease collects
dust/sand/grit and just becomes a grinding paste.

--
Dan - on Laptop

[\Doc\]

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4jbb33F71ntiU1@individual.net...

>DO NOT grease the bearings, or indeed any external gears - as the grease
>collects dust/sand/grit and just becomes a grinding paste.
>
> --
> Dan - on Laptop

.................and creates drag <grease>, hence creating more rolling
resistance and slowing the car down! WD40 or another light oil is best at
keeping them healthy and FAST!

Doc

[DanTXD]

""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
news:VYSdned6G_ciq0zZnZ2dnUVZ_vmdnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>
> "DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
> news:4jbb33F71ntiU1@individual.net...
>
>>DO NOT grease the bearings, or indeed any external gears - as the grease
>>collects dust/sand/grit and just becomes a grinding paste.
>>
>> --
>> Dan - on Laptop
>
> ................and creates drag <grease>, hence creating more rolling
> resistance and slowing the car down! WD40 or another light oil is best at
> keeping them healthy and FAST!
>
> Doc

Hey a bit of maintenance we agree on hehe :) Although to be fair, I've only
even been bothered to do it twice, and never on the Sav :)

--
Dan - on his PC

[crabbdean]

Thanks guys. I have to admit this advice suprises me. The car I got
came with little tubs of silicon grease for this purpose, and when
pulling apart the bearings they were greased. But I do see the logic
in your argument. I have some WD40 type spray which is designed for
nitro cars. I sprayed them out initially with that and they were
pretty spinning pretty free. So I just leave it at that, no grease
then huh? I have some cycle oil which I used to use for my bike chain.
Would that be better?

Dean

[\Doc\]

"crabbdean" <crabbd@tabcorp.com.au> wrote in message
news:1154569654.207391.300440@h48g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks guys. I have to admit this advice suprises me. The car I got
> came with little tubs of silicon grease for this purpose, and when
> pulling apart the bearings they were greased. But I do see the logic
> in your argument. I have some WD40 type spray which is designed for
> nitro cars. I sprayed them out initially with that and they were
> pretty spinning pretty free. So I just leave it at that, no grease
> then huh? I have some cycle oil which I used to use for my bike chain.
> Would that be better?
>
> Dean

Most racers will REMOVE the grease and run the bearings dry as it makes the
bearings faster. Running them dry kills the life of the bearing, but if
you're racing for money or sponsorship it's a small price to pay. Here's
how I do mine:

1) Remove rubber or teflon seals to expose bearings. If metal sheilded,
skip to #2.
2) Blast the bearings with dechlorinated brake parts cleaner.
3) Blow bearings out with compressed air
4) Oil bearings with 3-in-1 20W oil.
5) Replace sheilds.

I do this...................rarely..................<Dan, I can hear ya'
applauding!> Prolly should do it more often, but I just forget to be
honest. Wheel bearings are the ones that wear the fastest, followed by the
diff outdrive bearings and diff pinion bearings. I've never had to replace
a center diff bearing.

HTH,

Doc

[crabbdean]

Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the
stuff you need to know that should come in a manual.

Dean

[Dre]

"crabbdean" <crabbd@tabcorp.com.au> wrote in message
news:1154579009.024340.283590@i3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
> Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the
> stuff you need to know that should come in a manual.
>
> Dean
>
But wheres the fun in that :)

I think half the fun is working it all out...

Cheers Dre

[DanTXD]

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:44d17f54$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> "crabbdean" <crabbd@tabcorp.com.au> wrote in message
> news:1154579009.024340.283590@i3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>> Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the
>> stuff you need to know that should come in a manual.
>>
>> Dean
>>
> But wheres the fun in that :)
>
> I think half the fun is working it all out...
>
> Cheers Dre

I was wondering where you'd gone to dude, look at all these posters :-)

--
Dan - on Laptop

[ian]

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4jdmbaF7h771U1@individual.net...
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:44d17f54$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>> "crabbdean" <crabbd@tabcorp.com.au> wrote in message
>> news:1154579009.024340.283590@i3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>>> Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the
>>> stuff you need to know that should come in a manual.
>>>
>>> Dean
>>>
>> But wheres the fun in that :)
>>
>> I think half the fun is working it all out...
>>
>> Cheers Dre
>
> I was wondering where you'd gone to dude, look at all these posters :-)

I've asked several hobby shops and several club members. Every damn one
recommended a different model and make of car to start with. Looks like to
join a club and start racing you need to spend a minimum of £300. A half
hour quick charger with auto cut off, that runs on mains or 12volt car
battery power. Fully ball raced wheels with carpet wheels and a stick of
some kind of resin to increase grip. two or more sets of frequency
crystals. 3 sets of 3700 nimh batteries. Carbon fibre chassis. 27 turn
motor. fully ballraced wheels and inner bits. Belt driven 4 wheel drive.
A radio set alone costing 2 or 3 hundred pounds.

[DanTXD]

"ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
news:5gmAg.41843$F8.34658@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>
> I've asked several hobby shops and several club members. Every damn one
> recommended a different model and make of car to start with. Looks like
> to join a club and start racing you need to spend a minimum of £300. A
> half hour quick charger with auto cut off, that runs on mains or 12volt
> car battery power. Fully ball raced wheels with carpet wheels and a stick
> of some kind of resin to increase grip. two or more sets of frequency
> crystals. 3 sets of 3700 nimh batteries. Carbon fibre chassis. 27 turn
> motor. fully ballraced wheels and inner bits. Belt driven 4 wheel drive.
> A radio set alone costing 2 or 3 hundred pounds.
>

Depends what you wanna do - I guess we're talking about some kind of indoor
leccy touring car racing, so my knowledge ends here :-) If you wanna race
though, sure you'll be looking at some investment I guess. For example,
Nitro monster trucks start around the £250-£300 mark. If you wanted to
race, you'd do yourself no harm starting with a Revo - if you go 2nd harm
(dig around a few forums, and eBay) you can probably get something race
ready and all in for £300. The advantage here of course been your leccy
indoor racer can only be used somewhere inside and big, or outside and
smooooooth, whereas the nitro truck can be used just for fun anywhere
outside (inside if you have a barn or summet I suppose!) and doesn't have to
just be used for racing. The initial investment isn't the whole cost
either, you'll need spares, and other consumables, also, you will want to
modify it with upgrades :)

If you wanna start out though, my advice would not be to dive in with an all
singing all dancing top of the range beast, start with summet cheap and
cheerful, get some skills first so you're less likely to stack the expensive
one, and more likely to make good use of what it can do. The driver makes
much more difference than the car in my experience. Also, you might find
you don't enjoy it and don't want to persue it, and you'll lose less money
selling on a stock and un-modded lower end car than you would something high
end and expensive.

--
Dan

[ian]

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4jee2kF7i4mkU1@individual.net...
> "ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
> news:5gmAg.41843$F8.34658@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>>
>> I've asked several hobby shops and several club members. Every damn one
>> recommended a different model and make of car to start with. Looks like
>> to join a club and start racing you need to spend a minimum of £300. A
>> half hour quick charger with auto cut off, that runs on mains or 12volt
>> car battery power. Fully ball raced wheels with carpet wheels and a
>> stick of some kind of resin to increase grip. two or more sets of
>> frequency crystals. 3 sets of 3700 nimh batteries. Carbon fibre
>> chassis. 27 turn motor. fully ballraced wheels and inner bits. Belt
>> driven 4 wheel drive. A radio set alone costing 2 or 3 hundred pounds.
>>
>
> Depends what you wanna do - I guess we're talking about some kind of
> indoor leccy touring car racing, so my knowledge ends here :-) If you
> wanna race though, sure you'll be looking at some investment I guess. For
> example, Nitro monster trucks start around the £250-£300 mark. If you
> wanted to race, you'd do yourself no harm starting with a Revo - if you go
> 2nd harm (dig around a few forums, and eBay) you can probably get
> something race ready and all in for £300. The advantage here of course
> been your leccy indoor racer can only be used somewhere inside and big, or
> outside and smooooooth, whereas the nitro truck can be used just for fun
> anywhere outside (inside if you have a barn or summet I suppose!) and
> doesn't have to just be used for racing. The initial investment isn't the
> whole cost either, you'll need spares, and other consumables, also, you
> will want to modify it with upgrades :)
>
> If you wanna start out though, my advice would not be to dive in with an
> all singing all dancing top of the range beast, start with summet cheap
> and cheerful, get some skills first so you're less likely to stack the
> expensive one, and more likely to make good use of what it can do. The
> driver makes much more difference than the car in my experience. Also,
> you might find you don't enjoy it and don't want to persue it, and you'll
> lose less money selling on a stock and un-modded lower end car than you
> would something high end and expensive.
>
> --
> Dan

Sound advice.

you are indeed correct that it is indoor leccy touring cars.

The touring car track is closer than the nearest nitro track. The nitro
track is also outdoors. I also know sod all about tuning. Then there is
the antisocial noise of the things. I imagine an outdoor nitro needs even
more open space than a leccy.

I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to break
itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened is that i
ripped a tyre off and damaged a servo.

I had a nikko racer a while ago. Drove it to perfection round my own
street but it was not up to spec for racing. Got bored with it and sold it.

Going round a proper track in organised races seems more
challenging/rewarding and much less likely to become passe' so easily.

[Dre]

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4jdmbaF7h771U1@individual.net...
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:44d17f54$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>> "crabbdean" <crabbd@tabcorp.com.au> wrote in message
>> news:1154579009.024340.283590@i3g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>>> Thanks Doc. I'm finding this information invaluable! This is all the
>>> stuff you need to know that should come in a manual.
>>>
>>> Dean
>>>
>> But wheres the fun in that :)
>>
>> I think half the fun is working it all out...
>>
>> Cheers Dre
>
> I was wondering where you'd gone to dude, look at all these posters :-)
>
> --
> Dan - on Laptop
Hehe :) I've been around, just been lurking. Havnt taken the cars out much
lately, been mountain biking too much...

Planning to tune up the old MP6 on the w/e though, as long as it doesn't
rain (fingers crossed)

Savage has been sitting in the corner for ages, last time I took it out was
in a massive concrete car park. I remember one stack quite fondly, punched
the throttle from standstill, did a massive mono (bouncing it off the
wheelie bar, so for a second or 2, all 4 wheels were off the ground and it
was running on the wheelir bar wheel :) well into 2nd, front wheels
ballooning like crazy, fronts hit the ground unevenly, the whole thing
started getting out of control, then at allmost full speed it looses it and
flips over sliding down the carpark for ages on the side of the roof. The
concrete wore a nice hole in the corner of the body :) Was pretty funny
though!

Cheers Dre

[DanTXD]

"ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
news:DsqAg.55643$9d4.27751@fe2.news.blueyonder.co. uk...
>
> "DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
> news:4jee2kF7i4mkU1@individual.net...
>> "ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
>> news:5gmAg.41843$F8.34658@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>>>
>>> I've asked several hobby shops and several club members. Every damn one
>>> recommended a different model and make of car to start with. Looks like
>>> to join a club and start racing you need to spend a minimum of £300. A
>>> half hour quick charger with auto cut off, that runs on mains or 12volt
>>> car battery power. Fully ball raced wheels with carpet wheels and a
>>> stick of some kind of resin to increase grip. two or more sets of
>>> frequency crystals. 3 sets of 3700 nimh batteries. Carbon fibre
>>> chassis. 27 turn motor. fully ballraced wheels and inner bits. Belt
>>> driven 4 wheel drive. A radio set alone costing 2 or 3 hundred pounds.
>>>
>>
>> Depends what you wanna do - I guess we're talking about some kind of
>> indoor leccy touring car racing, so my knowledge ends here :-) If you
>> wanna race though, sure you'll be looking at some investment I guess.
>> For example, Nitro monster trucks start around the £250-£300 mark. If
>> you wanted to race, you'd do yourself no harm starting with a Revo - if
>> you go 2nd harm (dig around a few forums, and eBay) you can probably get
>> something race ready and all in for £300. The advantage here of course
>> been your leccy indoor racer can only be used somewhere inside and big,
>> or outside and smooooooth, whereas the nitro truck can be used just for
>> fun anywhere outside (inside if you have a barn or summet I suppose!) and
>> doesn't have to just be used for racing. The initial investment isn't
>> the whole cost either, you'll need spares, and other consumables, also,
>> you will want to modify it with upgrades :)
>>
>> If you wanna start out though, my advice would not be to dive in with an
>> all singing all dancing top of the range beast, start with summet cheap
>> and cheerful, get some skills first so you're less likely to stack the
>> expensive one, and more likely to make good use of what it can do. The
>> driver makes much more difference than the car in my experience. Also,
>> you might find you don't enjoy it and don't want to persue it, and you'll
>> lose less money selling on a stock and un-modded lower end car than you
>> would something high end and expensive.
>>
>> --
>> Dan
>
> Sound advice.
>
> you are indeed correct that it is indoor leccy touring cars.
>
> The touring car track is closer than the nearest nitro track. The nitro
> track is also outdoors. I also know sod all about tuning. Then there is
> the antisocial noise of the things. I imagine an outdoor nitro needs even
> more open space than a leccy.
>
> I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to break
> itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened is that i
> ripped a tyre off and damaged a servo.


AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-)


> I had a nikko racer a while ago. Drove it to perfection round my own
> street but it was not up to spec for racing. Got bored with it and sold
> it.
>
> Going round a proper track in organised races seems more
> challenging/rewarding and much less likely to become passe' so easily.

Yea you're probably right, racing's racing at the end of the day :)

--
Dan - on his PC

[ian]

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4jfedjF7pco9U1@individual.net...
>> I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to
>> break itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened is
>> that i ripped a tyre off and damaged a servo.
>
>
> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-)
>

What about Schumacher racing?

[\Doc\]

"ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
news:bkwAg.47195$F8.38028@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>
> "DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
> news:4jfedjF7pco9U1@individual.net...
>>> I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to
>>> break itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened
>>> is that i ripped a tyre off and damaged a servo.
>>
>>
>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-)
>>
>
> What about Schumacher racing?

Durability issues as well. CEN and Schumacher are in the same "league" from
what I've read and heard.

Doc

[ian]

""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
news:YvSdnY4puKwlCU_ZnZ2dnUVZ_omdnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-)
>>>
>>
>> What about Schumacher racing?
>
> Durability issues as well. CEN and Schumacher are in the same "league"
> from what I've read and heard.
>
> Doc

What would you guys recommend as a starting point for a beginner dipping his
toe into leccy touring car racing?

[Dre]

"ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
news:Q7xAg.47236$F8.2731@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk ...
>
> ""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
> news:YvSdnY4puKwlCU_ZnZ2dnUVZ_omdnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>>>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-)
>>>>
>>>
>>> What about Schumacher racing?
>>
>> Durability issues as well. CEN and Schumacher are in the same "league"
>> from what I've read and heard.
>>
>> Doc
>
> What would you guys recommend as a starting point for a beginner dipping
> his toe into leccy touring car racing?
>

H.....P.....I!

Without question!

Cheers Dre

[ian]

"Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:44d2a222$1@patrick.nettas.net...
> "ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
> news:Q7xAg.47236$F8.2731@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk ...
>>
>> ""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
>> news:YvSdnY4puKwlCU_ZnZ2dnUVZ_omdnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>>>>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-)
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> What about Schumacher racing?
>>>
>>> Durability issues as well. CEN and Schumacher are in the same "league"
>>> from what I've read and heard.
>>>
>>> Doc
>>
>> What would you guys recommend as a starting point for a beginner dipping
>> his toe into leccy touring car racing?
>>
>
> H.....P.....I!
>
> Without question!

This one?
http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=17715&catCode=265&tamiya=268

[Dre]

"ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
news:DuxAg.47237$F8.13917@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>
> "Dre" <ausjules1977@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:44d2a222$1@patrick.nettas.net...
>> "ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
>> news:Q7xAg.47236$F8.2731@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk ...
>>>
>>> ""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
>>> news:YvSdnY4puKwlCU_ZnZ2dnUVZ_omdnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>>>>>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-)
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> What about Schumacher racing?
>>>>
>>>> Durability issues as well. CEN and Schumacher are in the same "league"
>>>> from what I've read and heard.
>>>>
>>>> Doc
>>>
>>> What would you guys recommend as a starting point for a beginner dipping
>>> his toe into leccy touring car racing?
>>>
>>
>> H.....P.....I!
>>
>> Without question!
>
> This one?
> http://www.modelsinmotion.co.uk/product.asp?productid=17715&catCode=265&tamiya=268
>
>

Thats one of their cars yep, HPI make some really good stuff (Savage
anyone?) and they make some very very good sedans (I have 4 of them :)

They are competitively priced and IMHO are made from very good quality
components.

If you want to get into electric racing, see if you can pick up a second
hand HPI Pro 2 off ebay or somewhere. That car is AWESOME and you should be
able to pick one up cheap. Still be competitive in racing no worries.
Anyway thats my pick of the bunch, cheap, plenty of spares and one HELL of a
car.

Cheers Dre

[DanTXD]

"ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
news:bkwAg.47195$F8.38028@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>
> "DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
> news:4jfedjF7pco9U1@individual.net...
>>> I briefly had a cen mini monster. That was still powerful enough to
>>> break itself on tarmac when i tried to jump a curb. All that happened
>>> is that i ripped a tyre off and damaged a servo.
>>
>>
>> AVOID Cen at ALL costs - they blow :-)
>>
>
> What about Schumacher racing?
>

I echo what the other said, but I do hear that apparently the leccy touring
car stuff is a bit better. Your best bet would be to go down the club, see
what people there run, what your local hobby shop stocks (it's always handy
to have immeidiate spares availability) and what you just like the look of.
It helps if you've got something a few people there run, because they'll be
able to help you out with their knowledge and experience of the beast when
it comes to maintaining and fixing etc, also you'll end up lending spares
from each other when things go awry!

--
Dan

[ian]

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4jgjfaF7rn22U1@individual.net...
> "ian" <where@remyposts.com> wrote in message
> news:bkwAg.47195$F8.38028@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
> I echo what the other said, but I do hear that apparently the leccy
> touring car stuff is a bit better. Your best bet would be to go down the
> club, see what people there run, what your local hobby shop stocks (it's
> always handy to have immeidiate spares availability) and what you just
> like the look of. It helps if you've got something a few people there run,
> because they'll be able to help you out with their knowledge and
> experience of the beast when it comes to maintaining and fixing etc, also
> you'll end up lending spares from each other when things go awry!
>
> --
> Dan

Everybody different. guys running tamiya, schumacher, hotbodies, team Losi.
Everyone slagging off schumacher but lots of people using them cos of the
price. the team losi xxxs recommended to me for £109 RTR turned out to cost
£300. Locall hobby shop recommended tamiya TB01. which isn't even ball
raced. Next was TB02. Everyone at the club said that was ' a tub!'
whatever that means but it didn't sound good.

[Dafey]

Forgive my ignorance...but what the hell is LECCY touring car?


>> Belt driven 4 wheel drive.
>> A radio set alone costing 2 or 3 hundred pounds.


> Depends what you wanna do - I guess we're talking about some kind of indoor
> leccy touring car racing,

SNIP

[DanTXD]

>
>"Dafey" <d-farr@cableone.net> wrote in message
>news:12d8q7ci4aeef6@corp.supernews.com...
>
>Forgive my ignorance...but what the hell is LECCY touring car?
>
>

Electric.

--
Dan - on his PC