Hi, new to rc world :)

[carlhako]

Hi Guys

Im new to the rc world, living in australia :). in about a month ill be
buying a team losi lst2 but until then i have been given a gv (great
vigour) predator to play with, its a older car with a os force .15
engine which aparently still runs. Im having a few problems which i
would appreciate some help with. I cant find answers to these anywhere

The condition of the gv car was pretty good almost everything works but
the servos are broken, no breaks and the clutch bell assembly was
missing. The throttle servo was removed so i dont know how to
reassemble it, i have a new servo and a bit of wire with a spring on it
(not sure what its called) i have mounted the servo but having great
dificulty getting this bit of wire lined up so the throttle can be
opened fully and closed, with a bit of fiddling i got it mounted so it
would fully close but only open to about 30% are there some tricks with
doing it?

I have stacks of questions but ill start with working this out, thanks

[DanTXD]

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1154147257.778655.137100@m79g2000cwm.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi Guys
>
> Im new to the rc world, living in australia :).

Welcome - is your wallet ready ;-) ?

> in about a month ill be
> buying a team losi lst2

Good choice, I've never actually used one, but I'm told they're incredibly
durable, and the engines are nice and easy to use. Also, best standard
radio gear that comes with a truck.

> but until then i have been given a gv (great
> vigour) predator to play with, its a older car with a os force .15
> engine which aparently still runs. Im having a few problems which i
> would appreciate some help with. I cant find answers to these anywhere
>
> The condition of the gv car was pretty good almost everything works but
> the servos are broken, no breaks and the clutch bell assembly was
> missing. The throttle servo was removed so i dont know how to
> reassemble it, i have a new servo and a bit of wire with a spring on it
> (not sure what its called) i have mounted the servo but having great
> dificulty getting this bit of wire lined up so the throttle can be
> opened fully and closed, with a bit of fiddling i got it mounted so it
> would fully close but only open to about 30% are there some tricks with
> doing it?
>
> I have stacks of questions but ill start with working this out, thanks
>

Really, you need a copy of the manual or some photos of set up ones so you
can compare, it's very hard to offer advice on such things without been able
to see it in the flesh. You may also have to adjust the throttle trim on
your radio transmitter to allow the carb to open all the way.

--
Dan

[carlhako]

Thanks for the friendly reply Dan

DanTXD wrote:

> Good choice, I've never actually used one, but I'm told they're incredibly
> durable, and the engines are nice and easy to use. Also, best standard
> radio gear that comes with a truck.

Yup and aparently they handle very well right out of the box, im trying
to convince some mates to get some cars too it will be pretty boring
after a while bashin by myself lol.

>
> Really, you need a copy of the manual or some photos of set up ones so you
> can compare, it's very hard to offer advice on such things without been able
> to see it in the flesh. You may also have to adjust the throttle trim on
> your radio transmitter to allow the carb to open all the way.
>
> --
> Dan

ive tried to get a copy of the manual, best ive come across is a forum
with someone owning one, ive sent them an email no reply yet but
*fingers crossed*
i can take pics. ill have another go tonight at trying different
positions on the servo arms

if the LHS is open tomorrow (sunday) i have the day off ill see if they
can help me, they have a stack of old great vigour parts, ive still got
to work out how the hell the clutch bell assembly is put together, i
have 3 shoes, a spring, clutch bell and 2 tiny bearings??? neway ill
see how i go tomorrow

Carl

[DanTXD]

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1154172469.570886.236040@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks for the friendly reply Dan
>
> DanTXD wrote:
>
>> Good choice, I've never actually used one, but I'm told they're
>> incredibly
>> durable, and the engines are nice and easy to use. Also, best standard
>> radio gear that comes with a truck.
>
> Yup and aparently they handle very well right out of the box, im trying
> to convince some mates to get some cars too it will be pretty boring
> after a while bashin by myself lol.
>
>>
>> Really, you need a copy of the manual or some photos of set up ones so
>> you
>> can compare, it's very hard to offer advice on such things without been
>> able
>> to see it in the flesh. You may also have to adjust the throttle trim on
>> your radio transmitter to allow the carb to open all the way.
>>
>> --
>> Dan
>
> ive tried to get a copy of the manual, best ive come across is a forum
> with someone owning one, ive sent them an email no reply yet but
> *fingers crossed*
> i can take pics. ill have another go tonight at trying different
> positions on the servo arms
>
> if the LHS is open tomorrow (sunday) i have the day off ill see if they
> can help me, they have a stack of old great vigour parts, ive still got
> to work out how the hell the clutch bell assembly is put together, i
> have 3 shoes, a spring, clutch bell and 2 tiny bearings??? neway ill
> see how i go tomorrow
>
> Carl

One circular spring? Right. The shoes go on the pins on the flywheel, the
spring round them, then slide a bearing down the shaft (or put it inside the
clutch bell) and one bearing outside the clutch bell :)

--
Dan

[M78Ultra]

I thought the winzip link might have instructions, but after looking it is
just a parts list... =(


"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1154147257.778655.137100@m79g2000cwm.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi Guys
>
> Im new to the rc world, living in australia :). in about a month ill be
> buying a team losi lst2 but until then i have been given a gv (great
> vigour) predator to play with, its a older car with a os force .15
> engine which aparently still runs. Im having a few problems which i
> would appreciate some help with. I cant find answers to these anywhere
>
> The condition of the gv car was pretty good almost everything works but
> the servos are broken, no breaks and the clutch bell assembly was
> missing. The throttle servo was removed so i dont know how to
> reassemble it, i have a new servo and a bit of wire with a spring on it
> (not sure what its called) i have mounted the servo but having great
> dificulty getting this bit of wire lined up so the throttle can be
> opened fully and closed, with a bit of fiddling i got it mounted so it
> would fully close but only open to about 30% are there some tricks with
> doing it?
>
> I have stacks of questions but ill start with working this out, thanks
>

[M78Ultra]

http://www.alansmodels.com/main_site/download/index.htm

Only thing I could find is a Grand Vigor Predator (REX)

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1154147257.778655.137100@m79g2000cwm.googlegr oups.com...
> Hi Guys
>
> Im new to the rc world, living in australia :). in about a month ill be
> buying a team losi lst2 but until then i have been given a gv (great
> vigour) predator to play with, its a older car with a os force .15
> engine which aparently still runs. Im having a few problems which i
> would appreciate some help with. I cant find answers to these anywhere
>
> The condition of the gv car was pretty good almost everything works but
> the servos are broken, no breaks and the clutch bell assembly was
> missing. The throttle servo was removed so i dont know how to
> reassemble it, i have a new servo and a bit of wire with a spring on it
> (not sure what its called) i have mounted the servo but having great
> dificulty getting this bit of wire lined up so the throttle can be
> opened fully and closed, with a bit of fiddling i got it mounted so it
> would fully close but only open to about 30% are there some tricks with
> doing it?
>
> I have stacks of questions but ill start with working this out, thanks
>

[carlhako]

I have been trying to get the engine to start today without any success
ive worked out its loosing compression through the glow plug, if i put
my ear close it it and turn the engine over by hand i can hear gas
comming out near the glow plug im guessing its threaded, when i tighen
the glow plug it sorta keeps on going after it gets tight without using
too much force. Do you guys think i should replace the cylinder head
and keep trying, who knows what else is wrong with the engine, or i
have found a site that sells brand new force 15's for $99 AU but the
engine looks a little different, or another option just wait till i get
my lst2, i think ill do the latter and just keep these bits for later
down the track when i know more about these things.

[\Doc\]

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1154243083.305432.273890@i42g2000cwa.googlegr oups.com...
>I have been trying to get the engine to start today without any success
> ive worked out its loosing compression through the glow plug, if i put
> my ear close it it and turn the engine over by hand i can hear gas
> comming out near the glow plug im guessing its threaded, when i tighen
> the glow plug it sorta keeps on going after it gets tight without using
> too much force. Do you guys think i should replace the cylinder head
> and keep trying, who knows what else is wrong with the engine, or i
> have found a site that sells brand new force 15's for $99 AU but the
> engine looks a little different, or another option just wait till i get
> my lst2, i think ill do the latter and just keep these bits for later
> down the track when i know more about these things.
>

The cylinder head button is stripped. The glow plug can't make a good seal
d/t it's looseness, hence the engine won't start. Great diagnostic work by
the way. The engine is likely fubared at this point. When the button
stripped it likely dropped lots of metal shards into the cylinder, which
have since been worked around d/t trying to start the engine, likely ruining
the sleeve and piston. If you got the GV for a decent price, I'd drop a
motor in it and have some fun, or get it running and pawn it on the 'bay.

Doc

[carlhako]

Doc wrote:
> The cylinder head button is stripped. The glow plug can't make a good seal
> d/t it's looseness, hence the engine won't start. Great diagnostic work by
> the way. The engine is likely fubared at this point. When the button
> stripped it likely dropped lots of metal shards into the cylinder, which
> have since been worked around d/t trying to start the engine, likely ruining
> the sleeve and piston. If you got the GV for a decent price, I'd drop a
> motor in it and have some fun, or get it running and pawn it on the 'bay.
>
> Doc

Thanks Doc

Ill keep the car and put a new engine in one day so i have a spare car,
i guess any engine will fit as long as the clutch bell on the drive
shaft meshes with the gears connected to the drive train? ill pull this
motor to bits to see whats inside :). I got the car for free.

Oh and one quick question about glow plugs does it damage the glow plug
if i leave the battery connected for a few minuits or should i be
connecting the battery up and trying to get it disconnected asap?

Thanks again

[\Doc\]

"carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1154297166.410028.107810@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...

> Thanks Doc
>
> Ill keep the car and put a new engine in one day so i have a spare car,
> i guess any engine will fit as long as the clutch bell on the drive
> shaft meshes with the gears connected to the drive train? ill pull this
> motor to bits to see whats inside :). I got the car for free.

Hell, if you got it for free, and it costs you $99AU for a new mill, that's
a helluva price for a nitro. Any smallblock engine should work, so long as
it's the same crankshaft type (SG vs. threaded) and length, and you get an
engine with the same type of carb (slide vs. rotary). You can switch carb
types, but that will involve some fabrication on the part of the throttle
linkage.

> Oh and one quick question about glow plugs does it damage the glow plug
> if i leave the battery connected for a few minuits or should i be
> connecting the battery up and trying to get it disconnected asap?

You'll kill your glow battery within a few minutes if you leave it attached,
but it won't hurt the glow plug one bit.

Doc

[DanTXD]

""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
news:xfOdnQK7bdQ_wFDZnZ2dnUVZ_vadnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>
> "carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1154297166.410028.107810@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>
>> Thanks Doc
>>
>> Ill keep the car and put a new engine in one day so i have a spare car,
>> i guess any engine will fit as long as the clutch bell on the drive
>> shaft meshes with the gears connected to the drive train? ill pull this
>> motor to bits to see whats inside :). I got the car for free.
>
> Hell, if you got it for free, and it costs you $99AU for a new mill,
> that's a helluva price for a nitro. Any smallblock engine should work, so
> long as it's the same crankshaft type (SG vs. threaded) and length, and
> you get an engine with the same type of carb (slide vs. rotary). You can
> switch carb types, but that will involve some fabrication on the part of
> the throttle linkage.
>
>> Oh and one quick question about glow plugs does it damage the glow plug
>> if i leave the battery connected for a few minuits or should i be
>> connecting the battery up and trying to get it disconnected asap?
>
> You'll kill your glow battery within a few minutes if you leave it
> attached, but it won't hurt the glow plug one bit.
>

Guy at my LHS reckons you could burn the plug out. I dunno if there is any
truth in that as I've done it loads of times before, and I haven't had to
change a plug for donkeys now.

Can I just recommend getting titanium skid plates to everyone, landed on a
road from about 6 feet up the other day, flat out, shower of sparks - it was
fantastic :-)

--
Dan - on Laptop

[\Doc\]

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4j65pkF6h46oU1@individual.net...

> Guy at my LHS reckons you could burn the plug out. I dunno if there is
> any truth in that as I've done it loads of times before, and I haven't had
> to change a plug for donkeys now.

Who knows. During break-in I usually leave the ignitor attached until it
<the ignitor> dies to help keep the motor running while slobbering rich.
I've never killed a plug by leaving it hooked up to the juice for too long.

> Can I just recommend getting titanium skid plates to everyone, landed on a
> road from about 6 feet up the other day, flat out, shower of sparks - it
> was fantastic :-)
>
> --
> Dan - on Laptop

Sweet! What brand are ya' running? F/C/R or just C? What's the weight
like compared to aluminum?

Doc

[DanTXD]

""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
news:V8ydnenJxfGR9FPZnZ2dnUVZ_vKdnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>
> "DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
> news:4j65pkF6h46oU1@individual.net...
>
>> Guy at my LHS reckons you could burn the plug out. I dunno if there is
>> any truth in that as I've done it loads of times before, and I haven't
>> had to change a plug for donkeys now.
>
> Who knows. During break-in I usually leave the ignitor attached until it
> <the ignitor> dies to help keep the motor running while slobbering rich.
> I've never killed a plug by leaving it hooked up to the juice for too
> long.
>
>> Can I just recommend getting titanium skid plates to everyone, landed on
>> a road from about 6 feet up the other day, flat out, shower of sparks -
>> it was fantastic :-)
>>
>> --
>> Dan - on Laptop
>
> Sweet! What brand are ya' running? F/C/R or just C? What's the weight
> like compared to aluminum?
>
>

Still the same Hardcore racing stuff - front and rear, but only the front
was attached - ain't seen a centre Ti skid - where does one get one of those
:D ?

--
Dan - on his PC

[Badass]

I have used Nitro's for 3 hours max (loving it), and I burne a glow plug by
trying in vain to start the damn thing...I had the glow plug attached for
about a minute, when the needle suddenly fell to red. I removed the glow
plug to test for a charge, and it was blackened. I used my DT-10 plug since
it's never been in the road, and it worked a charm.

G.


"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4j65pkF6h46oU1@individual.net...
> ""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
> news:xfOdnQK7bdQ_wFDZnZ2dnUVZ_vadnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>>
>> "carlhako" <carlhako@gmail.com> wrote in message
>> news:1154297166.410028.107810@75g2000cwc.googlegro ups.com...
>>
>>> Thanks Doc
>>>
>>> Ill keep the car and put a new engine in one day so i have a spare car,
>>> i guess any engine will fit as long as the clutch bell on the drive
>>> shaft meshes with the gears connected to the drive train? ill pull this
>>> motor to bits to see whats inside :). I got the car for free.
>>
>> Hell, if you got it for free, and it costs you $99AU for a new mill,
>> that's a helluva price for a nitro. Any smallblock engine should work,
>> so long as it's the same crankshaft type (SG vs. threaded) and length,
>> and you get an engine with the same type of carb (slide vs. rotary). You
>> can switch carb types, but that will involve some fabrication on the part
>> of the throttle linkage.
>>
>>> Oh and one quick question about glow plugs does it damage the glow plug
>>> if i leave the battery connected for a few minuits or should i be
>>> connecting the battery up and trying to get it disconnected asap?
>>
>> You'll kill your glow battery within a few minutes if you leave it
>> attached, but it won't hurt the glow plug one bit.
>>
>
> Guy at my LHS reckons you could burn the plug out. I dunno if there is
> any truth in that as I've done it loads of times before, and I haven't had
> to change a plug for donkeys now.
>
> Can I just recommend getting titanium skid plates to everyone, landed on a
> road from about 6 feet up the other day, flat out, shower of sparks - it
> was fantastic :-)
>
> --
> Dan - on Laptop
>

[DanTXD]

"Badass" <badass@spamspam.com> wrote in message
news:mxpIg.9946$r61.7178@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>I have used Nitro's for 3 hours max (loving it), and I burne a glow plug by
>trying in vain to start the damn thing...I had the glow plug attached for
>about a minute, when the needle suddenly fell to red. I removed the glow
>plug to test for a charge, and it was blackened. I used my DT-10 plug
>since it's never been in the road, and it worked a charm.
>

I blew a plug yesterday - sometimes happens during breakin, ain't much one
can do about it :-)

--
Dan - on his PC

[\Doc\]

"DanTXD" <me@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:4lfvsvF1nnimU1@individual.net...
> "Badass" <badass@spamspam.com> wrote in message
> news:mxpIg.9946$r61.7178@text.news.blueyonder.co.u k...
>>I have used Nitro's for 3 hours max (loving it), and I burne a glow plug
>>by trying in vain to start the damn thing...I had the glow plug attached
>>for about a minute, when the needle suddenly fell to red. I removed the
>>glow plug to test for a charge, and it was blackened. I used my DT-10
>>plug since it's never been in the road, and it worked a charm.
>>
>
> I blew a plug yesterday - sometimes happens during breakin, ain't much one
> can do about it :-)
>
> --
> Dan - on his PC

Tru dat'. My track record for blowing breakin plugs is 50/50. However, if
it's blackened he's got one of two bad things happening:

1. Dirt entering engine via air filter (I know all about that!)
2. Running engine too hot and burning castor oil in fuel. It makes a
black/brown gummy mess when it cooks.

Doc

[Badass]

> 1. Dirt entering engine via air filter (I know all about that!)
> 2. Running engine too hot and burning castor oil in fuel. It makes a
> black/brown gummy mess when it cooks.



2!! I think I might have forgot to tighten the plug fully and after I took
it for a spin, some oil or fuel was boiling inside the big silver thingy
where the big sparky starty glow key thingy goes.....

Havent.....got....a.....clue :)

Gary.

[\Doc\]

"Badass" <badass@spamspam.com> wrote in message
news:FnMIg.10395$r61.1163@text.news.blueyonder.co. uk...
>
>> 1. Dirt entering engine via air filter (I know all about that!)
>> 2. Running engine too hot and burning castor oil in fuel. It makes a
>> black/brown gummy mess when it cooks.
>
>
>
> 2!! I think I might have forgot to tighten the plug fully and after I
> took it for a spin, some oil or fuel was boiling inside the big silver
> thingy where the big sparky starty glow key thingy goes.....
>
> Havent.....got....a.....clue :)
>
> Gary.

Big silver thingie = cooling head

big sparky starty thingie = glow plug ignitor

plug = glow plug (NOT a spark plug!!)

Doc

[Badass]

""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
news:b_2dndsViobSMGnZnZ2dnUVZ_vSdnZ2d@adelphia.com ...
>
> "Badass" <badass@spamspam.com> wrote in message
> news:FnMIg.10395$r61.1163@text.news.blueyonder.co. uk...
>>
>>> 1. Dirt entering engine via air filter (I know all about that!)
>>> 2. Running engine too hot and burning castor oil in fuel. It makes a
>>> black/brown gummy mess when it cooks.
>>
>>
>>
>> 2!! I think I might have forgot to tighten the plug fully and after I
>> took it for a spin, some oil or fuel was boiling inside the big silver
>> thingy where the big sparky starty glow key thingy goes.....
>>
>> Havent.....got....a.....clue :)
>>
>> Gary.
>
> Big silver thingie = cooling head
>
> big sparky starty thingie = glow plug ignitor
>
> plug = glow plug (NOT a spark plug!!)
>
> Doc


Ta :)