Hkm 1:2.5 Asw 28

[scalebldr]

Any one besides myself and Dan Troxel getting the new HKM ASW 28? I thought I might start a build log so we all could stay intouch as we build our models. I think John told me that 2 more are comming to the US.
Rick

[SteveR]

Rick, why stop at 7 meters when you can go straight to a 9 meter fully molded 9 meter ASW-28?! Check out this beauty spotted in Interlaken this summer. It was nothing less than spectacular!

Regards,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Ya thats a big ship, but for now 7.2 meters is manageable. Do you know who the maker IS?
Rick

[SteveR]

Rick, I know it's a German builder but that's all the info I have other than saying it's pretty awesome in the air. When you or Dan is re ready to trade up to the next larger size, let me know and I'll do some more research.

Regards,

Steve

[scalebldr]

And now we are 4, Dick Gustafson from Santa Monica is also getting the new ASW 28. Both Dick and my models should be getting here in about 10 days.

Dick also has a 1:3 Wilga with a DA 150.

Recived my Axel pilot and insturments yesterday. Got my 7 ch Competition
Power Box control system with 2 3300 mh Ni Ml bats from Aircraft Int. http://www.aircraftinternational.com/powerbox_index.htm. .

Next have to decide what servos to use. Realy looking forward to this build.

Rick

[hkm-usa]

Hi guys, I thought I'd share which servos I used for my 28. I tried for quality, torque, and economy and found what works for me.

BTW, there are now 5 asw 28's

elevator, HS 5945. this is now replaced by the HS 5985.
Rudder, Flaps, inboard and outboard Ailerons (7 total) HS 5645
Spoilers HS 5245 (2)
Retract servo HS 805

towrelease, Multiplex bb profi (it had enough torque and I had it allready)

the 5645 in the outboard ailerons is a bit of a squeeze, you will have to slide it under the wingskin towards the spar to make it fit, but I wanted the ailerons to have lots of power and be matched to the inboard aileron. I couldn't use the frame I made for them, but came up with something else.

I have also replaced the batteries with two 4300mah 5 cell packs

this is what I used with the funds avaliable.

[hkm-usa]

here a picture of the fuse to wing plug and the fuse install

JL

[SteveR]

John, why did you decide to use the Aeroflug power distribution system in your 28? What are its key features?

TIA,

Steve

[hkm-usa]

hey Steve,
it is the only power supply out there that will supply 12 seperate channels. it will do 2 servos per channel as well for a total of 24 servos (I use 12) the rest of the features are pretty standard, dual power supply up to 14 amps etc....

12 servos all under load can pull upwards of 10 amps, your reciever bus is good for 5 ish, hence the power distributor.

with the profi 4000 and a 12 channel reciever, every servo is individually adjustable.

not to mention...
it is about half the price of the next one down, emcotec etc...which has provisions for 10 channels or less.. while it can supply 32 servos, they are not individually adjustable.

[SteveR]

Thanks for the info John, greatly appreciated. Please let me know what do you mean by "each servo is individually adjustable"? Also, does this system include signal filtering e.g. what the round ferrites ususally do?

TIA,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Received my 28 two weeks ago, photos attached. I was very happy to see the quality of this ship; the photos don't do it justice, many thanks John! At HKM USA. http://www.hkm-models.com/

It was great that HKM was willing to make the model with my own graphics, I chose to go with a Swiss version, with my letter font and numbers.

The kit comes with all the bits you need to assemble with bags of goodies.
less RC equipment and Cockpit detailing.

Over the past few months I have been collecting Hitec servos, Jr 10 ch Syn RX. Got Axel pilot 1.2.5 scale, and instruments for the cockpit. http://www.axels-scale-pilots.de/

Photos of a full size ASW 28 and 29 that I took at a recent event at Warner Springs CA.

A 7 ch Competition Power Box system that comes with two 3300 nm batteries and a digital switch from Aircraft Int. http://www.aircraftinternational.com/powerbox_index.htm

Landing gear install up next.

[scalebldr]

Before I sound to nuts, just understand all the stuff I show you on this building loge is meant to express ideas and not to make the building of your 28 an exact science, this is meant to aid and exchange ideas with all. I will assume that all of us by now know now how to build at this level. I will try to show all the details in photos. When in doubt, ask a question, your humble servant.

The Kit comes with a retract installed. You have to mount the servo.

In this case I used a Hitec 5945 digital servo. I also fabricated a brake
system using a second 5945 digital.

I used some left over servo mounts from Hock, you could use any aluminum
right angel extrusion that’s light weight from the hardware store, the same as in John's photo. The linkage is a carbon aero shaft with 4 /40 all thread inside with 4/40 ball links at each end.

The brake system is made with a brake kit from Fema Modelltechnik that fits a 127 MM wheel. The rest is made from 1/8" aluminum plate and 1/2" round rod. After mounting the servo and linkage I used braded fishing wire to connect the bell crank to the brake arm. This is done so the retract can rotate up and down and still have a positive connection to the brake.
http://www.fema-modelltechnik.de/

One thing I would recommend, the aluminum collet on the main shaft that has a recessed 4mm alien screw that needs to be replaced with a 4mm external socket screw. Also make a flat spot on the shaft so the screw will seat and prevent it from rotating, this is done after you find the proper movement of the retract.

BFN
Rick

[Big Nuts 181]

hi there scale builder I have a question, how are the hinges done on the gear doors of your 28??

[scalebldr]

Here is a drawing of a way to install gear doors on a 1/4 scale ship and its the same way its done on the 28 with a minor change. You use tubing and piano wire to make the hinge. Also you can use one length instead of two seperate pieces, its easyer to keep the alignment for the center line of the hinge.
Rick

[Big Nuts 181]

how easy is that! hey thanks for the reply, hows the model coming along is she in the air yet?

[hkm-usa]

Rick,
I like the brake mod, very nice.

I used a much more substantial servo on the gear (360oz I think), If I take the gear doors of, I am convinced I could make my model do pushups.

there are a lot of details built into the model that I didn't notice until I got to build it. the gear doors for one, are a work of art by themselves. small things I had not thought of before like wing servo covers that match the bottom of the airfoil wing curve are another. everything else I have ever seen was just flat. just some nice small detailes..

Steve R,
each servo is individually adjustable through the transmitter. with 12 seperate inputs, I don't have to gang together any servos and mechanically match them

regards,
JL

[hkm-usa]

sorry steve, yes it does have rf filtering as well..

JL

[scalebldr]

Shots of elevator and rudder install. 11/11/06

Elevator
I used some flat aluminum plate and made a insert for the elevator control arm. Notice I have extended the clevis hole aft past the bottom of the arm.

Make a slot in the elevator to receive the arm, to the underside of the top surface. Then make a slot 90 degrees to each side of the first slot, inside the elevator, making a + shape. Fit the arm inside the slot, mark a line on the arm to show the amount you will be bonding, drill some holes in the part of the arm that will be bonded. This way you have a secure mounted arm.

The push rod is a carbon tube with allthred inside, with nuts at each end to
capture the rod. The rest is easy.

Rudder
I used 4mm aluminum fittings for the carbon rudder hinge and rudder control arm.

I cut off the top of the inserts to make clean looking fittings.
For the hinge, remove the flat section of the threaded control arm and cut a slot to receive a screwdriver, at the other end drill a hole to receive the hang rod.

Drill a hole in the bottom of the rudder in line with the rudders center line, for the insert. Install the insert with the hinge rod inside the insert, this will keep the rod straight, be careful don’t get CA on the rod or threads!.

Tape the rudder to center and mark the center of the control horn inline with the rudder fairings back edge. Install the insert by drilling an additional hole in the LE of the rudder to allow you to get epoxy to the inside of the rudder, and bond the insert.

Mounting the rudder servo is easy and in this case I used a left over aluminum servo mount with a plywood backer. Every one has there way of doing this. Just keep it clear of the retract arm.

One tip, I use masking tape on all serfaces when using epoxy, it keeps things tidy.

BFN, Rick

[Big Nuts 181]

That looks awsome Rick, nice to see some of the big guns showing everyone else how it all works also nice to be able to compare notes with you. Tell me just a point of interest, on your rudder pushrod I notice you use a full length pushrod ala Graupner as oposed to closed loop or a rear mounted rudder servo with a short pushrod, is there any particular reason?? and is there any wire up the inside of the pushrod to prevent the rods from expanding and contracting in the heat??

cheers Ross.

[crakob]

Hi there,
i'm also intersted in the 28. ( I will build in a AFT up and go )
http://www.klapptriebwerk.de/aft25en.htm.

Have you any ideas regarding the final weight ?

christian

[scalebldr]

That looks awsome Rick, nice to see some of the big guns showing everyone else how it all works also nice to be able to compare notes with you. Tell me just a point of interest, on your rudder pushrod I notice you use a full length pushrod ala Graupner as oposed to closed loop or a rear mounted rudder servo with a short pushrod, is there any particular reason?? and is there any wire up the inside of the pushrod to prevent the rods from expanding and contracting in the heat??

cheers Ross.

Hi BN 181, Thanks for your input. The model came with installed push rod tubes right and left. I used the kit parts because I did not want to add any additional weight in the tail, trying to keep things light. The glass push rod is light and very stiff. As for heat, I don't beleave it will be a problem, I always do field trim adjustments any way. Rick

[scalebldr]

Hi there,
i'm also intersted in the 28. ( I will build in a AFT up and go )
http://www.klapptriebwerk.de/aft25en.htm.

Have you any ideas regarding the final weight ?

christian

Hi Christian, I see your using the Schambeck up and go, Very Nice! I am not sure about your all up weight because I don't know that units weight with lipo's and all. I beleave that unit is light and does not efect the C/G that bad. Keep us posted with install photos, we all would like to see your project as well. Where are you located? Rick

[SteveR]

Hi Rick,

Can you elaborate a bit more on how you setup the rudder. Did you cut off the flattened portion of the inner threaded piece, slot it and drill a hole in the other end to accept the rudder hinge pin?

TIA,

Steve

[crakob]

Hi Rick,
i guess there was a little misunderstanding.

I ment the aprox. weight of your plane. The weigt of the AFT25 is about 1.7kg. The 10S4P TP-Lipopack adds an other 1.6 kg.

I´v read, something about 17 kg for the plane as a Sailplane. Can you confirm that.
It than would be interesting to know, how much lead?(the heavy metall) youhad to place in the nose.

Christian

[scalebldr]

Hi Rick,

Can you elaborate a bit more on how you setup the rudder. Did you cut off the flattened portion of the inner threaded piece, slot it and drill a hole in the other end to accept the rudder hinge pin?

TIA,

Steve

Hi Steve, yes what is normaly the control arm that recives a clevis, was modafied as you discribe. This works for almost all rudder installs. Rick

[scalebldr]

sorry steve, yes it does have rf filtering as well..

JL


John, can you answer CRAKOB's question in this thred on the all up weight of the 28.
Rick

[hkm-usa]

CRAKOB, my 28 is 17.2kg. as far a weight in the nose, I have no clue. 2 brass rods, 1/2 inch in diameter, about a foot long, filled with solid lead.

JL

[Big Nuts 181]

are we there yet , are we there yet any word has the model flown yet????

[scalebldr]

are we there yet , are we there yet any word has the model flown yet????

No not yet, Work is getting in the way, having a bit of a slow down. Will be working on cocpit seat tray next, along with mounting wing servos. Rick

[crakob]

Rick, why stop at 7 meters when you can go straight to a 9 meter fully molded 9 meter ASW-28?! Check out this beauty spotted in Interlaken this summer. It was nothing less than spectacular!

Regards,

Steve

Hi, just for the record,
the TB-ASW28 ist not fully molded but nevertheless its an awsome ship.
Here ist the Homepage of the owner.
http://www.marcomani.ch/ASW28-18.htm

the video ist great :)

Last week i visited HKM and had a first hand look at the 28.
Realy perfect craftsmanship ! And it´s HUGE !

Sadly the upandgo from www.klapptriebwerk.de does not fit into the fuselage. The fuselage is too narrow. ( 500mm aft of the main wing joiner you´ve got to have 150mm clearance in height) :(

[scalebldr]

The following photos show the process of making plugs and molds for the seat pan and seat back. This process is much the same as the ASH 26 I did on the ISSA Tech Tips page only here I decided to use polyester resin insted of epoxy.

[SteveR]

Rick, is the final molded product a single combined seat and pan or two separate pieces? Also, where do you get 3# foam?

TIA,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Rick, is the final molded product a single combined seat and pan or two separate pieces? Also, where do you get 3# foam?

TIA,

Steve
HI Steve, it's two parts, the pan will be mounted with 4 screws and the seat with the pilot mounted in it will have a single screw to hold it in place, I will have more shots to show how.

Check with building supplys for the foam, or an online sorce where you are located. Use a 3 or 4# foam.

[SteveR]

Thanks Rick, info greatly appreciated. That foam sure shapes beautifully. Do you fill the pores of the foam with spackle or similar before you apply glass cloth and resin?

I'm working on a new tow plane...the same 4 meter PA-18 that Pete Goldsmith towed us with at the JR Aerotow. I want to add a lower air scoop to the cowl, like the one in the attached photo and thought using your foam technique might be the way to go e.g. make a plug, then glass over it. Any comments or ideas?

Regards,

Steve

[Big Nuts 181]

Hi there steve can I suggest an easier way would be to wax up in some pvc waterpipe or mylar with a couple layers of 3oz glass and epoxy/resin and simply cut the scoop accross its length to make the scoop, make a matching cut out in the cowl zap the new scoop onto the cowl and glass it on from the inside.

[SteveR]

Thanks Big Nuts, won't that produce a semi-circular shape? I'd like to duplicate the shape of the squared off scoop shape in the photo above (below the prop).

Sorry, don't mean to hijack the ASW thread,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Thanks Rick, info greatly appreciated. That foam sure shapes beautifully. Do you fill the pores of the foam with spackle or similar before you apply glass cloth and resin?

I'm working on a new tow plane...the same 4 meter PA-18 that Pete Goldsmith towed us with at the JR Aerotow. I want to add a lower air scoop to the cowl, like the one in the attached photo and thought using your foam technique might be the way to go e.g. make a plug, then glass over it. Any comments or ideas?

Regards,

Steve
HI Steve, you can do what we call a lost mold, make your shape, glass it with 3 layers of 3oz glass, sand it smooth like you were going to paint it.

You can use epoxy but let it cure for 2 days to get good and hard. Or you could use Polyester that gets harder in one day. With eather keep it in a warm dry place they don't like cold and humidity.

Then remove the foam with a dremel, then sand the inside and finish install to the cowl, prime and paint. This way you don"t have to make a mold for just one part

Regards Rick

[scalebldr]

Here is the final assembly less install and painting.
BFN Rick

[SteveR]

Rick, you is one velly clever flyboy. Thanks very much for the great tips. Just curious...was it easier to make a separate seat pan and seat or was there another reason for making them as separate pieces?

TIA,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Rick, you is one velly clever flyboy. Thanks very much for the great tips. Just curious...was it easier to make a separate seat pan and seat or was there another reason for making them as separate pieces?

TIA,

Steve
Steve, It is easier to remove the pilot to access the rear of the model.
That way you can get to the R/C equipment. Some models have it all in one piece, I wanted to have more scale detailing. You will see once I build the side combings.

BFN

[SteveR]

Thanks Rick. I'm going to try your approach for the Cub air scoop. Some questions: do you finish the surface of the 3# foam in some way before you apply the glass cloth e.g. spackle, etc.? Also, do you allow each of the 3 layers of cloth to completely set up before you apply the next layer? Finally, I assume you have apply some body putty or filler after the 3rd layer to fill the weave and other imperfections...yes?

TIA,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Thanks Rick. I'm going to try your approach for the Cub air scoop. Some questions: do you finish the surface of the 3# foam in some way before you apply the glass cloth e.g. spackle, etc.? Also, do you allow each of the 3 layers of cloth to completely set up before you apply the next layer? Finally, I assume you have apply some body putty or filler after the 3rd layer to fill the weave and other imperfections...yes?

TIA,

Steve

Steve

OK sooooo you want to be a glassman, If you don't have the right materials you won't have much fun! People wonder why this kind of work can be a little pricey, Ya gata do it to see why. Sounds like you need to find a store that handles fiberglass and resins, they will have the rest. OH ya, get a good air mask, fiberglass dust and the smells will get ya big time. Oh and one more thing, disposable Nitrile 5 mill gloves, you can get a box of 100 for $14.00
I use them all the time, keeps epoxy and junk off you hands.

You could fill the foam with a cote of Z Epoxy finishing resin. Then lightly sand with 320 wet sandpaper it doesn’t have to be baby smooth, it’s the inside. Then get a pint PVA liquid mold release ( it's Green) and spray the plug with it before you lay-up, I use my airbrush, any small spray gun will do. It's water soluble, it will wash of the inside of your part when you remove the plug.

Next cut your cloth on a diagonal with extra waist to cut off when its hard.
The reason is so the cloth will bend on hard corners.
Place your plug on wax paper.
Use a laminating resin and lay-up all three layers, and I would also lay-up the
extra cloth about 1" from the plug on all three sides to form a flange for mounting to the cowl. When hard you can cut off the extra waist of the flange down to 3/8" wide. The flange would mount from the inside of the cowl not the out side.

Don't remove the plug yet, go a head and sand the out side with wet 320.
Fill any minor holes with a body filler, do not prime yet.

Remove the plug, wash off the mold release, cut and fit the scoop to the cowl and bound it. You can use epoxy on polyester, rough up the surfaces to be bonded.

Now do any priming and filling, then paint. Assuming your are going to repaint the cowl.

Keep me posted skywalker!

Yoda

[Big Nuts 181]

Sorry about that Steve didn't look closely enough, ok take two just use either 1mm ply and glass inside and out or sheet glass and glass on the inside and the balance of above or score the inside of your glass end benh it to shape once there lay an extra layer of glass on the inside you can cyano it together to hold its shape!! Too Easy.

[SteveR]

Guys, thanks very much for all the tips. I'll let you know how it all turns out. This Cub is turning out to be a way bigger project than I first envisioned. For starters, because of tight noise restrictions at our field, I'm running two huge cannister mufflers inside the fuse which requires creating an internal "tunnel" from the firewall back past the landing gear. As soon as it's completed, I'll launch my new occupation as the glassman.

Steve

[scalebldr]

Guys, thanks very much for all the tips. I'll let you know how it all turns out. This Cub is turning out to be a way bigger project than I first envisioned. For starters, because of tight noise restrictions at our field, I'm running two huge cannister mufflers inside the fuse which requires creating an internal "tunnel" from the firewall back past the landing gear. As soon as it's completed, I'll launch my new occupation as the glassman.

Steve
Steve, I think 181 has the better idea for making the scoop, after looking at the photo of your cub . But for future projects that have curves and round shapes, the lost mold idea will work.
Rick

[Big Nuts 181]

Hi there Scale builder whats the big yellow wing in the background???

[scalebldr]

Hi there Scale builder whats the big yellow wing in the background???

HI, 1:3 scale Cmelak, from Airworld, with a Moki 215cc 5 cyl raidal. Just finished a month ago.

[Big Nuts 181]

that is a gorgous model! I have been campaining my 40% 1-26 over the last couple of years now, and she's still doing big aero's. To tow her up and the following 40% 2-32 I have been building a 1-30 with a 140 king in the front for power, hopefully it won't take me too much longer!!

[SteveR]

Rick, hope you're planning on bringing the new Cmelak and ASW-28 to the JR event this year, can't imagine a prettier picture than seeing the ASW towed by that yellow bent wing bird.

Steve

[scalebldr]

Rick, hope you're planning on bringing the new Cmelak and ASW-28 to the JR event this year, can't imagine a prettier picture than seeing the ASW towed by that yellow bent wing bird.

Steve
HI Steve, not sure about the Cmelak, but will bring the 28.
Rick

[scalebldr]

that is a gorgous model! I have been campaining my 40% 1-26 over the last couple of years now, and she's still doing big aero's. To tow her up and the following 40% 2-32 I have been building a 1-30 with a 140 king in the front for power, hopefully it won't take me too much longer!!

Looking good, I bet your 26 is a great flyer, how much does it weigh? and what servos did you use?
Rick

[scalebldr]

Making the side combings is much the same as I did on the 26 except I am making the plugs removable so I can mold them.

Since this model is bigger it's a little easier to work on and I wanted to keep the weight down so making molds for lighter parts made sence.

Later I will show the cocpit with the parts in place and primed.

[SteveR]

Rick, your cockpit is looking super! How do you get from the foam formers that you clamp in place to the rough plugs? Is it simply a matter of globbing on body putty and sculpting it? If so, what gives the plugs some strength and keeps them from cracking?

Also, you mentioned using 3 oz cloth for the air scoop on my Cub. Where do you find this weight as the LHS don't seem to carry it?

Thanks,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Rick, your cockpit is looking super! How do you get from the foam formers that you clamp in place to the rough plugs? Is it simply a matter of globbing on body putty and sculpting it? If so, what gives the plugs some strength and keeps them from cracking?

Also, you mentioned using 3 oz cloth for the air scoop on my Cub. Where do you find this weight as the LHS don't seem to carry it?

Thanks,

Steve

Steve
The body filler is fairly hard when it cures. I did place a steel rod on the left side combing to bridge the thinner section where the flap a spoiler controls will be.

Try getting it from CST http://www.cstsales.com/index.html They have distrubutors all over. The have every thing you need except polyester resins, you can get that any marine store or mabe a hardware store. The also carry a wide variety of fiberglass and carbon plate, so you could use the idea that BN 181 referd to for your Cubs scoop.
Rick

[SteveR]

Thanks Rick, will have to coordinate one of my CA business trips with Visalia, etc., so I can listen to your 215cc 5-cylinder wind up for a takeoff...gotta be a thrill!

Steve

[Big Nuts 181]

Looking good, I bet your 26 is a great flyer, how much does it weigh? and what servos did you use?
Rick

High there Rick my first composite 1-26 (the one in the picture) came out a tad heavy at 45lb but much of that was "developmental" weight but the new model weighs in at 35 lb and a wing area of 25 1/2 square feet. Even so at that weight she is a floater on the slope with presence and on the flat the model can 'hang' around in an almost spookey manner. The servos I used were the Hitech 30kg for rudder and elevator, 12 kg on each aileron and tow release and 6kg on each airbrake. And to power it all 2 5 cell packs.

cheers Rossco

[SteveR]

Rick, was at HKM today in Germany and Willi is setting up a big ASW-28 with a Schambeck up and go system. Very, very cool and there's such a small opening on the top of the fuselage. If you don't add one, surely Dan T. will!

Regards,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Rick, was at HKM today in Germany and Willi is setting up a big ASW-28 with a Schambeck up and go system. Very, very cool and there's such a small opening on the top of the fuselage. If you don't add one, surely Dan T. will!

Regards,

Steve

Hey! don't post this kind of message with out photos, are you nuts. Its like watching the superbowl with a tied game with 6 seconds to go and a field goal is about to be kicked and the satilite blows up! Is this the 40% Im building?

Rick

[SteveR]

Geeezzz, next time I'll remember to bring a camera along when I visit HKM! Of course it's the big ASW-28. The Schambeck is barely visible in that big fuse. I'll see if I can get HKM to send along some photos. Willi was setting up a new 28 while I was in the store and he demo'd the up and go system (without spinning the prop, of course). It is a very slick unit.

Steve

[scalebldr]

Geeezzz, next time I'll remember to bring a camera along when I visit HKM! Of course it's the big ASW-28. The Schambeck is barely visible in that big fuse. I'll see if I can get HKM to send along some photos. Willi was setting up a new 28 while I was in the store and he demo'd the up and go system (without spinning the prop, of course). It is a very slick unit.

Steve
Hey sounds prety neet, I would love to build a 1/2 scale with the Schambeck.
I understand that it keeps the C/G problem at a minimum. Hows the weather over there? Sure do mis Germay.

Rick

[scalebldr]

Getting a little closer to getting the hard stuff done. Soon it will be on to mounting all the R/C gear and servos. More to come.

[scalebldr]

I Ordered my insturments from Axel, http://www.axels-scale-pilots.de/d I used 1.2.5, and 1.3 sizes. Using several photos of full size, I went with somthing close to the ASW 28.

Mini Micro switches are from Raido Shack.

Texture is 3M rocker panel spray from auto paint store.

[scalebldr]

Time to add the labels, I purchased a set of ASW 28 Labels from Eastern Sailplanes (the ASW 28 & 29 is now a black background the earlyer are white)

I then scanned them at 400 dpi into Corel Draw 11. I then printed them at 40% reduction onto a 8.5 X 11 acrylic permante sticky back, with a matte finish. This matte paper can be purchased from Scoreline, its called "labelblank". Just Google it.

I then sealed the paper with "Deft" brand clear satin wood finish, it darkens the inkjet print and puts a nice clear seal to the paper. I then use a new exacto blade and cut out the labels placing them where the full size labels are placed.

This works for all ASW and ASH 3.5 scale and up. What is great, the label sheets come will everything, even the on off for switches and fuse labels for the instrument panel.

Working on R/C install and cloth panels.

BFN

[SteveR]

Rick, the interior of your ASW is a knockout...kudos, kudos, kudos. Thanks for all the invaluable tips. I just received my Axel instruments for my PA-18 Cub and will use your techniques.

Question: How do you get such perfect holes in the fiberglass panel to mount the instruments? I would think the slightest boo boo would show like a sore thumb.

Can't wait to see it at this year's JR.

TIA,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Rick, the interior of your ASW is a knockout...kudos, kudos, kudos. Thanks for all the invaluable tips. I just received my Axel instruments for my PA-18 Cub and will use your techniques.

Question: How do you get such perfect holes in the fiberglass panel to mount the instruments? I would think the slightest boo boo would show like a sore thumb.

Can't wait to see it at this year's JR.

TIA,

Steve

Thanks Steve, First I use the templet to align the instruments. The holes are done with a dremel sanding drum, and I just keep fiting the instrument till it fits, I also use a small 1/2 round file. Since the holes need to be metric I just take my time. I did have to readjust the computer screen, so I used bondo and realined the screen.

Rick

[SteveR]

Thanks Rick. Thought you might enjoy a peek at the instrument panel of a 1:1.25 scale LO-100 built by Patrick Trauffer. I took these shots at the Interlaken aerotow last summer. He's an amazing craftsman. The plane weighs 80 kilos!

Steve

[scalebldr]

Thanks Rick. Thought you might enjoy a peek at the instrument panel of a 1:1.25 scale LO-100 built by Patrick Trauffer. I took these shots at the Interlaken aerotow last summer. He's an amazing craftsman. The plane weighs 80 kilos!

Steve

Ya, looking good! size does make a difference, at that scale things get more to full size proportions. That meet you went to looks like a great time. Maybe you should send the shots to me so we can post them on the ISSA site. Give a little info also, where when ect.....Rick

[SteveR]

Will do. Also planning to attend again this year. It is simply an amazing event, some of the most spectacular sailplanes from Germany, Switzerland, UK...and my little dinky ships from the U.S.!

Here's a link: http://www.tun.ch/

Click on the Events section and you'll see mention of Interlaken.

Regards,

Steve

[rshelby]

You can also use the step drills, (unibit I think they are called) to drill the holes. There is usually not a step that is the correct size, so drill to the next smaller size. Then use a cone shaped grinding bit that is larger than the holes to slowly grind to the correct size from the back side. This bit is used in the drill press for more control.

This method was detailed on the instructions I received from Axel with my instruments. My only deviation from his instructions was to use the small screws with matching nuts to bolt the instruments to the panel instead of gluing in the instruments and screws. I also bolted the instrument panel to the binnacle so it can easily be removed and replaced in the future if I want to change the instrument configuration.

Rick Shelby

[scalebldr]

You can also use the step drills, (unibit I think they are called) to drill the holes. There is usually not a step that is the correct size, so drill to the next smaller size. Then use a cone shaped grinding bit that is larger than the holes to slowly grind to the correct size from the back side. This bit is used in the drill press for more control.

This method was detailed on the instructions I received from Axel with my instruments. My only deviation from his instructions was to use the small screws with matching nuts to bolt the instruments to the panel instead of gluing in the instruments and screws. I also bolted the instrument panel to the binnacle so it can easily be removed and replaced in the future if I want to change the instrument configuration.

Rick Shelby

Hey Rick, good Idea. Where did you get the tools?

Rick

[rshelby]

[QUOTE=scalebldr]Hey Rick, good Idea. Where did you get the tools?

I have had them so long I don't remember. Back then they were only made by one company and really hard to come by. They were one of my most prized tools. Luckily, these days they are made by several different companies and are available at most all hardware stores, including Home Depot and Lowes. Here is link to an internet source I found: http://tinyurl.com/2jm62l They are not cheap, but when you consider they are several bits in one, it makes it a little easier to spend the money. They also work well as deburring tools.

The beveled bits are called grinding points and ones I have are made for air grinders with a 1/4" shank. Here is a picture of what I am talking about: http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/ver16701.html They come in all shapes and sizes and are available at the same places as the unibits.

BTW, I used some 2mm G10 fiberglass sheet for the panel itself.

Rick

[scalebldr]

I fashioned a switch platform and flat surface for the RX and Power Box System from light ply. I made holes in the standoffs for wires to pass through.

The aerotow release is a simple assembly with a Hitec 5645, I left access for balancing the C/G.

Batteries are mounted with velcro, as is all the R/C gear.

[scalebldr]

The side panels are fashioned from poster board, ( from art supply’s or "Staples" ) and a 1/4 fiber filler, and a cloth of choice.

The layers of cloth, fiber filler and a cloth backing are all glued with 3M adhesive spray.

If you don't have skills for sewing things, this might be the time to have female input. I bet you could get this done for a night out on the town, you know, dinner and stuff.

After gluing all the materials together, I then sewed the seam lines to match the full size cockpit panels. I used tape to guide the seam lines.

I did a test fit by taping the panels in place and then trimmed the sides of the seat tray to seat on the mounts.

I then made a map pocket and mounted it to the side panel. The pocket has a copper wire at the top edge so I can shape it.

Let me know how dinner wet!

BFN

[SteveR]

LOOKING MIGHTY GOOOOOOODDDDD!

And of course knowing your eye for detail, you've got a map for each venue you fly at reflecting the actual terrain of each locale.

Rick, thanks very much for all the great tips. You sure know how to bring a cockpit to life. Can't wait to see this baby fly.

Regards,

Steve

[SteveR]

Rick, just heard from HKM that they completed the first test of the Schambeck up and go with the 28, got 5 climbs with it, not bad. I've requested photos and will post if they are sent to me. The Schambeck and related hardware cost about as much as a simple tug. You pay one way or the other!

Steve

[hkm-usa]

I got the same news. I also requested number and type of cells which I will post when I get an answer.

meanwhile enjoy the pictures..

JL

[hkm-usa]

Batteries are 2ea. 5/5000 hacker lipo's.

they say it was a 45 degree climbout!

JL

[SteveR]

The up and go looks like it was designed just for the 28. Geeez...if I keep talking like this I'll wind up ordering one!

Steve

[crakob]

Hi there,
i just got a video from hkm.
I did a little cutting and sound edding.

The 7.2m ship weights about 20kg with 10cell Lipo 5

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showatt.php?attachmentid=1210429

isn´t that fantastic !!


greetings from germany

Christian

[Big Nuts 181]

That is very cool heaps of power too and I bet you need big $$ to own one too, but hey what bragging rights!!!

[scalebldr]

Just when you thought I was done.

The wing servos are pretty standard, I’m using Hitec 5945 dig. The servo frames are a new item. There from Germany and Craig Greening is the US distributor at http://www.servoframes.com/ these are for JR but you can modify to fit Hitec. I really like these because you can easily remove the servo.

On to the Canopy Frame, the latch and pull are made from a latch you can get at Hobby Lobby.

Rick

[scalebldr]

Getting a little closer to being done. The following is adding more detail to the canopy frame and Instrument housing. I added height to the sides, a lip to the instrument sunscreen and I flattened the front of the housing for the air intake flap.

The texture is done by using 3M Rocker Panel Spray (auto paint store).

The top cover in made by using a thick vinyl tape to outline the cover, then use body filler to blend the edges, once you get the shapes, remove the vinyl tape and you get nice even edge to the cover. Spray on the panel spray then sand and prime the panel spray to get the desired finish. When you spray the texture, be sure to mask and protect the rest of the canopy frame, this stuff is hard to sand off.

The rest is painting using flat black enamel and a white that matches the model.

Next I will install the canopy.

At this point I have installed all the servos and programmed the model.
After a complete assembly I will set the C/G.

Plan to do the Maiden at the Spring Visalia aero tow.

My next and last post on the build will be finish shots of the 28.

BFN
Rick

[SteveR]

Rick, you sure have brought that cockpit to life! Will you bring this bird to the JR meet?

Steve

[scalebldr]

[QUOTE=SteveR]Rick, you sure have brought that cockpit to life! Will you bring this bird to the JR meet?

Steve[/QUOTE
Hi Steve, yes I plan to bring it to JR
Rick

[scalebldr]

Here are some shots of the finished cockpit. I left the canopy off so you can see more detail.

Rick

[scalebldr]

This is how I set the C/G on my 28 and other large models.

The stand is a simple stand made of 1X2 pine and plywood. On the top of the verticals is a piece of piano wire glued with CA, that gives me a metal surface that the other piano wire in the model rides on.

The piece of plywood is clamped on and removable so I can store it. At the top of the verticals I glued a piece of wood on each side for a stop, so the rod will not slide off (not a good thing). I made the button rail long so I can adjust the with between the verticals to fit other models, there mounted with wood screws.

On the model, in this case the C\G is 3mm aft of the wing rod, I drilled a 3/16 hole 3/8 up from the bottom of the wing faring on the 3 mm centerline. I then cut a 3/16 piano wire leaving 1/2 on each side of the model so the rod will rest on the vertical stands.

I then assembled the model, insert the piano wire throug the model first this will leave a 1/2 gap at the root so I could set the model on the stand. One thing to keep in mind, the C/G rod length will very because of the TE wing pin length, you want to make sure you can keep the wing lined up on the model wile you setup the C/G

The rest is easy, just find the neutral point using any lead ballast ( I use lead shot). In this case I did not need any ballast, the 2 batteries and moving every thing I could forward did the trick.

I do the same with small gliders as well, I is important to know where you started to do any C/G setup.

Rick

[scalebldr]

Ok I think this is it, Im done!. I will post some other shots on the ISSA site for the Visalia aero tow this month.

Just a final note, Hey Dick ya beter get going on that bad boy, you will love it!

Best Regards to all
Rick

[SteveR]

Rick, it's a knockout!!! Is the pilot and his harness from Axel...somehow he doesn't look typical. I like him in his summer white. He's so Southampton.

Also, still trying to figure out your CG technique. Are you saying that you drill a hole through the fuse at the CG location, insert a piece of music wire and balance the plane on this music wire pivot point by resting on the stand with the wing panels pulled away from the fuse?

Regards,

Steve

[scalebldr]

Rick, it's a knockout!!! Is the pilot and his harness from Axel...somehow he doesn't look typical. I like him in his summer white. He's so Southampton.

Also, still trying to figure out your CG technique. Are you saying that you drill a hole through the fuse at the CG location, insert a piece of music wire and balance the plane on this music wire pivot point by resting on the stand with the wing panels pulled away from the fuse?

Regards,

Steve

HI yes, you said it much better than I. I thought I might be a little too zen here.

Yes it's Axel in summer white, he just got of the golf corse and though it was a great day to fly.

Rick

[SteveR]

Thanks Rick. now I don't want to change the pilot's pants from white to brown, but you might want to consider nixing the tow plane and drop in the latest up and go from Schambeck!

[scalebldr]

Wooow, thats cool, an up and go with a thermal nuclear device!

Bet it launches in a hurry.
Rick

[Big Nuts 181]

Congratulations on a great build scalebldr, I wish you the very best on her maiden voyage. On thing though......why the canopy release at the trailing edge of the wing....are your fingers too big to fit through the sliding window to open the canopy???? I saw a similar set up to what you have done with the canopy latch but has the release attached to a bell crank that is fitted just inside the retract bay so with the wheel down you stick your finger in the hole and give it a flick. But thats only personal choice....I hate stuff hanging out in the breaze on such a gorgously sleek machine.

[scalebldr]

On thing though......why the canopy release at the trailing edge of the wing....are your fingers too big to fit through the sliding window to open the canopy????.


A lot of folks use this method. Its a small fitting, I dont have a method to do a latch thats scale, there is no room between the fuse and canopy frame to make that work.

I use to do the belcrank in the landing gear bay, but with a radio tray and bending over with my back the way it is, I thought I would try this system.
Rick

[Big Nuts 181]

fare enough you can also use the midget sliding catch arm like in the spring catch out the side attached by nyrod outside.....looks a lot less obtrusive, but hey whatever works.

[scalebldr]

HI all, thanks every one for you kind words during the build, I hope some of my tricks will be of help in your endevers.

Going to Visalia this weekend for what I hope will be a great weekend, hopeing all goes well with my Maden flight of not only the 28 but my 1:3 Cemlak tug.

Looks like rain in the morning out of Long Beach, Oh I forgot Its Global Burnout! not supose to do this, any way all looks ok up by Visalia once I get to the desert, bout 1 1/2 hr north of LB.

Look forward to seeing the gang and the new models and good times at dinner with all the gossip in the scale world.

Will keep you posted.

Regards Rick

[Wing-span]

I would love to see a video of anything as big as this ASW28 flying. Is there anything like this posted?

[veritus]

The closest I have seen, other than on the internet, are Chris William's videos which are on the first page of "Airplane/Sailplane Videos" in the Topics section of this site.

[scalebldr]

HI all, boy is this a great model or what!

We got to the field around 2:00 pm.

After saying hi to all and the usual heming and hawing, unloaded the van and setup the 28.

Just for mind comfort I added 8 oz to the nose before my first tow. The lift was all over the place, as Visalia can do. First tow go off at 200 meters, just wanted to play it safe and do a short test flight. C/G seems to be right on, ( c/g was set at 3mm behind wing rod) did you usual dive test, roll rate, rudder and elevator response, and I was close to what I was looking for. Wile I was doing all this I gained another 50 meters with out trying, had a 10 min cruse.

Did a mock landing at 100 meters to check flap and elevator mix, needed to take a little out of the elevator.

Made my first landing approach with spoilers and they seem to be effective, landing was a little hot but I had a big runway so no worries.

During the flight I did not have to trim the elevator so I know I’m real close to c/g.

Before the next flight I took out half of down elevator, setup a full wing camber at 1/8”.

Next tow got off at 300 meters and the flight was a blast. At 4:00 pm lift was still great. Did some speed runs to check penetration and wow can this baby book!

Next I pulled full spoilers and descended to 200 meters and tried some thermal work with the camber setting. I was very pleased with how you can slow down and carve some really nice turns, the climb rate was great, took it up to 350 meters.

After a fun flight of 15 min or so, came in with flap and spoiler, and they worked well. On final took flaps out and just used spoiler, the model settled in and I made a nice short landing. Can we say greased it!

Can't say enough, this is a fun ship to fly, hats off to HKM and John Luetke of HKM/USA for bringing in this great model.

Oh, forgot we used a Pegasus with a DA 100 for all the towing this weekend. I was not able to get the Cmelak up because of some carburetor settings, that will be another day.

Photos by Doug Hackett Visalisa Spring aerotow. AT http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=675377

Regards Rick

[scalebldr]

Here are some of the Maden flight.

Rick

[veritus]

Noice!!!!!