My First Build - GWS Slow Stick

[Cracroft]

I am starting my first build and with suggestions from many of you I’ve chosen the GWS Slow Stick. I know this has been done before on RCGroups but you’ve all help me decide what I should start with I want your help and it’s always nice to have a Canadian perspective. I want to know what you’ve learned since you built this plane, what mods should be done before I fly it so my success may come easier.

My LHS finally got one in after over two months of asking and it was the EPS150C not the one many of you recommended or the one I asked about. I decided to purchase this one just because they really don’t seem to know when they would get one in, it was always maybe next week. I also picked up a Rx Crystal.

I knew I needed more supplies and got the ESP300C – D Gear Ratio motor, the GWS ICS480Li ESC, the GW/R4N/H JR/AIR 4ch FM Naro Receiver & some extra props from www.backyardflying.com, great deals.

I purchased some Hitec HS-55 servos & a prop saver from another online place.

I picked up a JR XP652 Tx from someone selling it on RCCanada for what I thought was a good price and it should last me a while with 6 channels.

I’m now on the hunt for epoxy, tape, batteries & charger.

Where do I start and where do I go from here. I’ve heard the adhesive & tape from GWS should just be tossed any suggestions on brands for those, size for the tape and whatever else I may need?

Thanks so much

Cheers
John

[The Enemy]

I do suggest keeping the GWS contact cement for future projects.

Whatever building supplies you cannot find, I can always supply... I have already given you my suggestions on battery and charger.

Good luck, and take lots of pics while building. We can assist you better with a visual reference if possible.

Later John,

Corey

[Cracroft]

Thanks Corey,

your suggestions have been an invaluable source for me and I greatly appreciate all of them.

I'll get pictures along the way.

John

[The Enemy]

Hehe, the thanks will come from seeing the look on your face when you get a hold of the sticks for the first time. I'm glad to help in any way I can... Assistance from other's on RCGroups is the main reason I'm still into it.

Corey

[Pa0222]

Good to see you have started a build thread, I'll help in any way I can. Now I have a question: did your boom fuselage came in two pieces?
I've read some of the new kits do

Pedro.

[The Enemy]

John,

www.TrueRC.com is having a Father's Day sale! There is a charger that will do 1-3 cell LiPos and 1-8 cell Nickel (both types) on for $30USD right now. http://home.comcast.net/~truerc/Charge/chargers.htm

Just checking their Canadian distributor now... [Edit - Chargers not available from Canadian distributor... But can still be purchased from US.]

Corey

[Pa0222]

Hi John,

Check out this link: http://www.rccanada.ca/bb/viewtopic.php?t=24580
Ask him if the balancer does charge (I believe so, but just to be sure). That can be a good one. Actually the batts doesn't look bad either. Check out his Tx charger it may fit yours :)

Regards,
Pedro.

[Cracroft]

Good to see you have started a build thread, I'll help in any way I can. Now I have a question: did your boom fuselage came in two pieces?
I've read some of the new kits do

Pedro.
Hey Pedro,

I guess maybe I got an old stock as the boom was in only one piece.

John

[GWS CHEN]

John,

It depends on you, you could keep the boom in only one piece. If you have a JR transmitter, be sure to buy a GWS R4NII or R6NII in JR type, R6NII is better than R4PII or R4NII. I'd like to recommend you buying GWS dual version receiver "RD8SL", the best one in line though it'd be little bit expensive comparing with R6NII. Moreover, having ESC ICS300 with EPS300C would be
better enough, and ICS480 with EPS400C as well.

Chen

[boomerace]

John,
Use 3M 2" clear packing tape or for even more strength the 3M Extreme Packing Tape which has fiber reinforcing running both ways instead of the GWS stuff.
boomer

[Cracroft]

John,

If you have a JR transmitter, be sure to buy a GWS R4NII or R6NII in JR type, R6NII is better than R4PII or R4NII. I'd like to recommend you buying GWS dual version receiver "RD8SL", the best one in line though it'd be little bit expensive comparing with R6NII. Moreover, having ESC ICS300 with EPS300C would be
better enough, and ICS480 with EPS400C as well.

Chen

Thanks for your suggestions Chen but I'm just starting my build and I would like to use what I have already purchased before I replace it. Are you telling me what I've purchased will not work together now?

[Cracroft]

John,
Use 3M 2" clear packing tape or for even more strength the 3M Extreme Packing Tape which has fiber reinforcing running both ways instead of the GWS stuff.
boomer

Thanks Boomer I'll pick some up this week. For some reason I'm having some trouble finding epoxy to use. One of the local craft supplies has something made for foam but I can't remember the name it was something like Foam Out. Do you or anyone else have suggestions.

Also the instructions for the tail and wings don't seem to be explained well. Can you help with how I'm suppose to cut.

Thanks I appreciate you joining the thread.

John

[GWS CHEN]

Hi John,

Two connectors of ICS480 are different from what on ICS300.
EPS150 or EPS300/350 could be plugged easily with ICS300.
GWS glue could be used well on building SLow Stick, it's a contact glue, just coat both sides and wait for 15-20 minutes then
press them together.

Would you contact service@gws.com.tw for your problem
regarding its manual and GWS products.

Chen

[The Enemy]

John,

Don't stress about the epoxy too much... I have some that you can use. Did Michael's not carry any 2 part epoxys?

Looks like you have a chance to give some 'Tenderfoot Advice' to GWS about their manuals...


Chen,
How about sending him a warbird for his efforts? ;) You have the ability here to ask exactly what someone totally new thinks of your kits and how they can improve!

Corey

[Cracroft]

Hi John,

Two connectors of ICS480 are different from what on ICS300.
EPS150 or EPS300/350 could be plugged easily with ICS300.

Would you contact service@gws.com.tw for your problem
regarding its manual and GWS products.

Chen

Chen I understand now why it was suggested by some people that I should have gone with Castle Creations for the esc. I was going for a good deal, shows me that if I want a gws fuse then just but the fuse and go with other products for everything else. Can I change the connector on one or both so I can use what I have?

As for the problem with the manual do a search and find out what others think because members of RCGroups have explained it better and it shows I'm not the first who questions the wording of the manual. The pictures and the wording show two different things such as taping. It tells you to "sand or cut a 40 degree angle on one side", then use the tape on the other side. Your pictures show taping first then cutting a 40 degree angle. How do you cut and know it's a 40 degree angle? You should have someone edit you manuals so the pictures and the wording match.

GWS came highly recommended to me but we'll see if I recommend it to anyone.

[boomerace]

Chen I understand now why it was suggested by some people that I should have gone with Castle Creations for the esc. I was going for a good deal, shows me that if I want a gws fuse then just but the fuse and go with other products for everything else. Can I change the connector on one or both so I can use what I have?

As for the problem with the manual do a search and find out what others think because members of RCGroups have explained it better and it shows I'm not the first who questions the wording of the manual. The pictures and the wording show two different things such as taping. It tells you to "sand or cut a 40 degree angle on one side", then use the tape on the other side. Your pictures show taping first then cutting a 40 degree angle. How do you cut and know it's a 40 degree angle? You should have someone edit you manuals so the pictures and the wording match.

GWS is came highly recommended to me but we'll see if I recommend it to anyone.
John,
Get with Corey on the connectors. We all have our favorites. :cool: What you have is just fine! Just needs some connectors soldered on!
boomer

[The Enemy]

John,
Get with Corey on the connectors. We all have our favorites. :cool: What you have is just fine! Just needs some connectors soldered on!
boomer


Yup, have a soldering iron and solder ready to go. (as well as tape, epoxy, and various bits)

Corey

[Cracroft]

Thanks Boomer & Corey,

I sometimes feel like it'll be a miracle if this thing ever gets built.

John

[The Enemy]

LOL, no miracles... I haven't even MET you face to face and I know it will work out.

So where are we on the board here? If we have the kit, we (you) can start building anytime. The wings and battery holder all move on the SS, so there is no worry about finding the CG later with the electronics in her... Are you still just waiting on the few items you mentioned earlier?

Corey

[Cracroft]

Are you still just waiting on the few items you mentioned earlier?

Corey

I ordered the charger and a battery from TrueRC on the weekend, I'm going to try and build a power supply from one of the other links that was sent to me. I'll go to Staples and get the tape so I can work on the wings.

And I'll go throught the destructions again for the rest of the assembly.

Boomer do you saw the fuse for the tail or leave it the way it is?

John

Am I not suppose to glue everything?

[boomerace]

I ordered the charger and a battery from TrueRC on the weekend, I'm going to try and build a power supply from one of the other links that was sent to me. I'll go to Staples and get the tape so I can work on the wings.

And I'll go throught the destructions again for the rest of the assembly.

Boomer do you saw the fuse for the tail or leave it the way it is?

John

Am I not suppose to glue everything?
DON'T SAW THE FUSE! Another bad idea from GWS! The new kits I just received for building the bipe were with the fuse in 2 pieces! I hate what they have done to the poor thing! :rolleyes: :mad:
I glue the rods to the wings with a small amout of epoxy or thick foam safe CA . You can use small pieces of tape in a few places to hold the reinforcing rods tight against the front of the wing for gluing. Then install the 2" tape so 1" of tape is on top of the wing and then wrap around the rod and stick the other 1" to the underside of the wing. Result is a "bullet proof wing"! :cool:
boomer

[GWS CHEN]

Hi Corey,

My colleague in GWS China are working on further editing manuals
but seems not well on this Slow Stick one. I'd need to keep them
informed of words you all posted on RCG. Hopefully, they could
make it better on the coming new airplanes.


Hi John,

I'd like to suggest you to set control throws of rudder/elevator according to what stated on the manual, then you'll know what "40 degrees" to be referred.

You'd need to take enough informations of ESC before buying them, how many Amps it could drive to motor, how many amps
your motor would need in certain voltage, 8.4V or 9.6V, then the
motor could generate its best performance for you.
http://www.gwsus.com/english/product/speedcontroller/480.htm
http://www.gwsus.com/english/product/speedcontroller/300.htm
http://www.gwsus.com/english/product/powersystem/eps150c.htm http://www.gwsus.com/english/product/powersystem/eps300c.htm
http://www.gwsus.com/english/product/powersystem/eps400c.htm

You'd need a converter if connector and plug are different kind.
Alternatively, I personally just cut one connector off and solder
the wires with the plug which needs to be connected then use
tapes making them insulated from another polarity.

Chen

[Cracroft]

When I opened the plastic that the wings, horizontal elevator & stabilizer & the vertical stabilizer & rudder came in the horizontal & stabilizer came in two pieces and the vertical & rudder are almost two pieces, should it be that way?

Chen,
The parts I purchased were not rushed into they were recommended by others on RCG for this plane. Your models are great prices but as for the electronics, I should have taken the recommendations from others and stayed away from them! For future builds I will. I'd like to hear what everyone else's preferences are for esc's, receivers, etc. I'm going to start goign for quality rather than the cheapest I can find.

John

[Pa0222]

Don't worry John they come in two pieces and you are going to tape them together after bevel the edges. How much you have to bevel? well as much as you are comfortable, I prefer cutting than sanding. Also, (is a matter of taste) tape both sides of the control surface.

Regards,
Pedro.

[Cracroft]

Thanks Pedro,

I know you've built your own tail sections which I may have to do after I see how this works out. I finally got some 3M packing tape last night so I'll probably start the beveling this weekend.

John

[finadk]

I just finished building my Slow Stick last night. Man what an easy build, This is the pure basics of a powered flying machine.
Hopefully i wil lhave good weather in NJ on sat mrning to try her first flight.
Scott

[Pa0222]

Take a look. This is what I'm talking about. It is almost impossible to have the same strengh with the stock tail section.

Pedro.

PS: Sorry for the ad to zebra :D

[ccchris]

John,
I don't know if you got your batteries and charger sorted out but I have the batteries and charger from my slow stick for sale here : http://rccanada.ca/bb/viewtopic.php?t=22912
The kan 1050 @ 8.4 volts worked awesome with the 300 motor.
Good luck the slow stick is alot of fun.
Chris

[Cracroft]

John,
I don't know if you got your batteries and charger sorted out but I have the batteries and charger from my slow stick for sale here : http://rccanada.ca/bb/viewtopic.php?t=22912
Good luck the slow stick is alot of fun.
Chris

Thanks for joining the thread. I did get a charger and I'm going with lipo's because so many have suggested.

John

[ccchris]

That 's a good idea with the lipo's. The Slowstick is one plane that does not seem to mind the extra weight of the round cells. I had beat my slowstick to death and learned the basics, I have been fying a GWS beaver since with lipos and a small brushless motor. Long flights and no crashes on this one.
Although I have been eying the remains of the slowstick thinking of rebuilding, I need to create a new tail section as someone had mentioned above.
Chris

[Pa0222]

I need to create a new tail section as someone had mentioned above.
Chris

Chris,

That blue foam is called Bluecor, it's floor insulation from Dow. It is sold by bundles of 4' x 50' folded every 2' that's why it's called fanfold insulation.
I looked left and right here in Montreal and couldn't find it. In the US it is sold at Lowes, don't remember the price, sorry.
This foam is tough and prefect for the price. There are plenty of free plans in the foamies section that call for FFF (fan fold foam) or bluecor.

Hope this helps,

Pedro.

[Cracroft]

Sorry for the delay in letting you know how things are going. I've been a little busy to try and work on the plane. The battery I purchased does not fit between the little prongs on the holder. I've read a thread about turning the battery holder upside down has anyone tried this?

Also I'm putting together the wings and was wondering if anyone had a picture of the underside so I can see what it should look like with the rods in position.

Cheers & thanks

John

[Pa0222]

Sorry for the delay in leting you know how things are going. I've been a little busy to try and work on the plane. The battery purched does not fit between the little prongs on the holder. I've read a thread about turning the battery holder upside down but won't this make the plane go off balance?
No
Also I'm putting together the wings and was wondering if anyone had a picture of the underside so I can see what it should look like with the rods in position. Which rods in the wing? The ones in the leading edge?

Cheers & thanks

John

You may not even need the batt holder. I keep mine in place with just a big elastic band. I see if I can post a pic latter

[Cracroft]

Hey Pedro,

Yes the ones in the leading edge. Do it go on the bottom of the wing or against the front? Also the short one at the back.

Also should I be using glue or epoxy to glue the wings together so the actually bend upwards?

Thanks

John

[Pa0222]

John,

There are little grooves on the top edge of the wing, leading and trailing edge. The sticks goes there.
I used epoxy to glue the sticks and then clear tape on top when the epoxy has dryed.
I also used epoxy to join the wing in position (dihedral) and then more tape on top.
Put some more tape on the tips of the wing, so if you scratch the wing landing or taking off is holded in place by the tape.
Bottom line: Tape is your best friend ;)

Pedro.

[Cracroft]

John,

There are little grooves on the top edge of the wing, leading and trailing edge. The sticks goes there.

Pedro.

Ok so the sticks acutally go on top of the wings as apposed to below. The aluminum tubes don't seem to be bent enough to fit properly, do I need to bend them more to fit?

If you have a picture of how it's suppose to look either post it here or send it to me pm.

thanks
John

[Pa0222]

I'll post a pic tonight. Sticks go on top because the wing needs to rest on the plastic holders. Don't bend the aluminum tubes, they tell you the right dihedral. Too much dihedral and your plane will be too slow. I know it's complicated but try to glue the wing with the sticks as reference and when the wing is set then glue the sticks to it.

[boomerace]

I'll post a pic tonight. Sticks go on top because the wing needs to rest on the plastic holders. Don't bend the aluminum tubes, they tell you the right dihedral. Too much dihedral and your plane will be too slow. I know it's complicated but try to glue the wing with the sticks as reference and when the wing is set then glue the sticks to it.
Easier to assemble the sticks into the dihedral tubes and then using 3 small pieces of tape on each side fasten them in place snug against the grooves molded for them in the wing front and back.. THEN use the epoxy or thick foam safe CA to glue them in place. Then wrap the 2" 3M tape around the rods with 1" on top of wing and 1" on bottom. Then fill the center of the wing with scraps of balsa or foam and epoxy. Cover with same tape. Done and bullet proof! :cool:
boomer

[Cracroft]

Easier to assemble the sticks into the dihedral tubes and then using 3 small pieces of tape on each side fasten them in place snug against the grooves molded for them in the wing front and back..
boomer

Thanks Boomer
The back doesn't seem to have much of a groove but I can see something. So the V on the tubes should face upwards is my guess.

I'll get the hang of this and soon be flying. What do you do about your batteries?

I saw some of what you've built with SS, it's amazing.

John

[boomerace]

Thanks Boomer
The back doesn't seem to have much of a groove but I can see something. So the V on the tubes should face upwards is my guess.

I'll get the hang of this and soon be flying. What do you do about your batteries?

I saw some of what you've built with SS, it's amazing.

John
John,
I make a battery holder from 1/4" Balsa with a piece of 1/32" aircraft plywood glued to the balsa and put Velco on the plywood . This is then glued to the Fuse at the CG.
boomer

[Cracroft]

Interesting Boomer

do you have a favorite esc, receiver, motor for the Slow Stick or anyone else?
I know Castle Creations are the best in many peoples opnions but which one?


John

[Pa0222]

Here are the pics.

1) plastic sticks in position

2) batt positioning. Make a loop with an elastic band and...I think the pics speak better.

3) You can give an extra loop around the batt if it's too loose.

For insane power I recommend CM-2054 motor from Castle geared 6.6:1 (I can show you how, very inexpensive with a GWS gearbox). Phoenix 25 ESC and your choice of 2S or 3S batts. Prop 10x4.7 or 10x3.8
I have 10x4.7 on 3S and it's amazing!

Pedro.

[boomerace]

Interesting Boomer

do you have a favorite esc, receiver, motor for the Slow Stick or anyone else?
I know Castle Creations are the best in many peoples opnions but which one?


John
I like Pixies for Brushed Motors and the Thunderbird for the Brushless unless it's a plane with 5 servos or more then I go to the Phoenix 25 for the 3A BEC.
As far as motors there are so many good ones now just take your pick. Reciever choice I base on value of the plane and how far I intend to fly it from me. Hitec Electron 6 is what I use the most but have some planes where I just use a GWS Pico 4 channel as I fly them close in.
boomer

[ccchris]

Hey Pedro,
I have the 5mm FF just need the dimensions of the tail section as my old ones are long gone. Rudder and elevator if someone is able to give me rough dimension that would be great.
Chris

[Pa0222]

Chris,

I'll measure tonight and let you know. You may want to consider this simple mod to the tail section (link), watch the video and get the idea. I haven't try it myself because if it's not broken...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=519146

Pedro.

[Pa0222]

Chris,

Here are the numbers:

Rudder (L x H): 23.5 x 16 cm. Control surface = 11 cm
Horiz stab (L x H): 45 x 18.5 cm. Control surface = 8 cm. Shortest part of the horizontal stabilizer is 36 cm because hor. stab. is in fact trapezoid shaped.

Did you checked out the mod in the link?

Regards,
Pedro.

[Cracroft]

I've read some of the threads that explain not to glue the motor to the fuse and I fully agree. Since I did not cut the fuse as GWS tells you too I'm going to use the screws for securing the plastic piece and use them for the motor.

Might as well use what I have. I need to get some AC from my LHS, I found some foam glue but it doesn't hold all that well.

I found a set of small drill bits for the dremel tools, one of which is a little smaller than the 1 mm GWS suggest you use if any of you are looking for something.

I have a prop saver, should I cut the shaft and where?

Also how do you run the push/pull rods through if the are already attached the the control horns and then connect them to the servos?

John

[Pa0222]

I've read some of the threads that explain not to glue the motor to the fuse and I fully agree. Since I did not cut the fuse as GWS tells you too I'm going to use the screws for securing the plastic piece and use them for the motor. Good idea

Might as well use what I have. I need to get some AC from my LHS, I found some foam glue but it doesn't hold all that well.

I found a set of small drill bits for the dremel tools, one of which is a little smaller than the 1 mm GWS suggest you use if any of you are looking for something.

I have a prop saver, should I cut the shaft and where? Your choice. I like it as short as possible, so it holds better when the nose meets the ground (quite often)

Also how do you run the push/pull rods through if the are already attached the the control horns and then connect them to the servos? Get some Dubro hardware, not too expensive and very useful, explain what you need to the LHS people

John

Regards,
Pedro.

[Cracroft]

Hey All,

Sorry about the question with the push/pull rods that was a bit of a no brainer. Thanks for the suggestion about the Dubro stuff Pedro I am going to get some for the connection to the servos. I've got the rest attached to the horns and they are CA'd to the rudder and elevator.

The wings are together, my LHS finally got in some medium foam safe CA & some 30 minutes epoxy. They seem to be a ok shop but they need some competition to bring their prices down.

The battery I got came with a female ultra deans connector, I guess I'll need to get a male for the ecs? I guess I'll also learn to solder since I'm getting into this hobby. The prices in the U.S. seem so much better on the connectors. Any suggestions for good prices for them in Canada? TrueRC in the U.S. has 5 male & 5 female for $10 usd or 10 female & 3 male for $14.25 usd.

Next will be cutting the shaft for the prop saver (where do you get your elastics that small Pedro, I'm sure I'll go through a ton), wait for the dubro connectors

Cheers
John

[Pa0222]

John,

Cut the shaft as short as you can. Assamble the prop saver, mark and cut. Some people likes to leave 3 mm or so of protruding shaft, I leave nothing. My propellers go flush to the prop saver and are keep in place with the elastic which I get an assorted pack at Dollarama. There are many good one in a pack because you are going to strech them several times around the saver.

Pedro.

[ccchris]

Pedro,
Thanks for those dimensions. Stick should be back in the air again soon.
Chris

[Pa0222]

I kinda forgot to bolt the gearbox to the fuse and with this much power I have now, yes you guess it, the motor went out and many bad things happen. Everything is fixable but I'm grounded for some time.

Bottom line: Do bolt the motor mount to the fuse, even if you think is a tight press fit and you use epoxy.

Pedro.

[Cracroft]

Well just another post on the slowest build. I picked up some Dubro Mini E/Z connectors from my LHS and a 2 pack of deans male ultra plugs.

While I was there I thought I would ask about a price on the esc that should go with my motor even though I've been offered help soldering a connector to the one I have. The guy asked what kind of battery I was going to use because lipo's won't work with GWS esc's. Something to do with the auto shutoff that the motor could suddenly cutoff.

Please advise if I should be using the gws stuff or if I should be buying something else like a JR receivers, CC esc, etc. For some reason I knew I should have just gone with something other than GWS stuff but the price was right for me.

Maybe I haven't asked enough questions but when I did the response was I could use what I bought together without a problem.

The only things that seem to be happening is I'm spending more and not getting off the ground.

Cheers

John

[tommyeflight89]

I've been using GWS rx's in alot of planes and they have worked great, along with their servos (Nano's specifically). You can get a GWS esc and use a Lipo battery, but you risk damagingthe pack by lowering it's voltage past 3v per cell. I bought a CC Pixie 7p for my GWS E Starter which used a 350C motor and a 12002s lipo. Worked great. Before I ruined my GWS esc by shorting it, I used it instead of the Pixie and had no battery related problems, I simply didn't stay in the air forever. I would land after about 10mins and check the pack voltage. Lipos/cheap GWS esc's worked great for me, just be carefull and don't fly forever without checking the voltage.

[Cracroft]

what sort of power source do you all use for your chargers. I was thinking of building one from the link someone sent on another thread but I'd like to look at all my options.

Cheers
John

[Pa0222]

The cheapest is a computer AT power source, the one with a real switch. You don't have to do anything to it, just take any yellow (+) and any black (-) wire and you have it.
I took mine from an old computer they were throwing out at work, but I guess if you go to a repair/old computers shop you should get one pretty cheap.
John, about the connectors in general, you need to learn how to solder, no one uses the same connectors and actually high end ESCs and even batts comes without them.

Regards,
Pedro.

[Cracroft]

The cheapest is a computer AT power source, the one with a real switch. You don't have to do anything to it, just take any yellow (+) and any black (-) wire and you have it.
John, about the connectors in general, you need to learn how to solder, no one uses the same connectors and actually high end ESCs and even batts comes without them.

Regards,
Pedro.

Thanks Pedro,

I know you've been keeping an eye on my posts.
Your use of the power supply is a lot easier than the one in another thread.
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-a-Computer-ATX-Power-Supply-to-a-Lab-Power-Supply and I like yours a lot better. Do you have any trouble regulating the voltage? What kind of connectors did you put on the wires or do you just clip the charger to the bare wires?
The battery and charger I purchased I had them install the deans, so I'll be learning to solder which can be useful with other things as well. Is any solder better than others for this lind of work?

My fuse is built, wings are built, servos installed on fuse connected to the rudder & elevator with dubro connectors. When I need to find the cog I'll be able to move them around if needed. I haven't bolted the motor yet but that will be soon enough once the esc & receiver are installed.

Charging the batteries and crashing is not long off!

Cheers
John

[Pa0222]

John,

I didn't put any connectors, just clip the bare ends to the charger's alligators. The voltage regulation is done by the power supply and that's the beauty of it.
I think you could use an ATX power supply but you will have to figure out the way of giving the signal to turn on. I believe is just shorting the power sw cable from the box but I'm not sure, also it is harder to turn off without the switch.
Take a look in the batteries section but it will be wise if you make a charging station with bags of sand and all that. I still have to make mine, in the mean time I charge 0.1C and never right after a flight.
Solder, almost forgot, I like the rosin core from Radioshack, it melts very fast and flows very good. Otherwise just any 60-40 will do.

Hurry up, there's been a lot of good flying days at least here in Montreal

Regards,
Pedro.

[Cracroft]

John,

I think you could use an ATX power supply but you will have to figure out the way of giving the signal to turn on. I believe is just shorting the power sw cable from the box but I'm not sure, also it is harder to turn off without the switch.

Take a look in the batteries section but it will be wise if you make a charging station with bags of sand and all that. I still have to make mine, in the mean time I charge 0.1C and never right after a flight.

Hurry up, there's been a lot of good flying days at least here in Montreal
Regards,
Pedro.

I think I have an old power supply that has a switch on the box so shouldn't be a problem.
I didn't realize I would need to do that with sand bags, my wife should love that
I need to contact Corey in Guelph, he's going to be my instructor, my wife wants me out too

[Pa0222]

Hi guys,

This is what I'm talking about. I use dual rates for slow/fast flight and I love it. Did the rudder even bigger than the original, elevator the same size and shape since I was happy with it even before the mod.
Now inverted is easy and last time I didn't get the courage but I think inside loops are possible.

Pedro.

[The Enemy]

John,

Just started a new job and wanted to do well, so I dropped off the RCGroups radar for a little bit. You can always use my email though, I always get that...

Looks like some progress has been made here! Thanks to everyone else helping out too. Sounds like you're doing a good job, and that we'll be getting together real soon. I have a Cessna fresh off the build table just jumping at the chance to fly!

TTYL,
Corey

[Cracroft]

You can always use my email though, I always get that...

Looks like some progress has been made here! Thanks to everyone else helping out too. Sounds like you're doing a good job, and that we'll be getting together real soon. I have a Cessna fresh off the build table just jumping at the chance to fly!

TTYL,
Corey

Thanks so much Corey hope the new job is going well.
I have a question for everyone about the power supplies, I have someone i know working for an electrical business and may be able to get one for me but I'm not really sure what to tell him exactly what I need (how many volts, amps, etc).
Your help is greatly appreciated.
CHeers
John

[The Enemy]

Hey... was wondering if you were in the air yet without calling me for help! And it looks like no one gave you an answer since JULY.

What you'll need is a 2A capable 12V power supply. Unless your charger is one of the nice ones and requires more draw (Amps). You can go off of max full charge setting of the charger to determine exactly what you'll need. But 12V is definitely what you want...

I apologize for such a tardy response!

Corey

[Cracroft]

Hey... was wondering if you were in the air yet without calling me for help! And it looks like no one gave you an answer since JULY.

What you'll need is a 2A capable 12V power supply. Unless your charger is one of the nice ones and requires more draw (Amps). You can go off of max full charge setting of the charger to determine exactly what you'll need. But 12V is definitely what you want...

I apologize for such a tardy response!

Corey
Hey Corey,
Not in the air yet but I just got a power supply 3A 12V, and all I need to do is some soldering for the motor and battery connections on the speed control. The summer has gone by too quickly and just been too busy and short of $$$.

I'll be in touch and thanks for the reply.

[saffiesue]

Has anyone out there got the plans for the Bird Dog L-19, 40-60 size. l have searched the web for months now and cannot find these plans anywhere. So if anyone knows someone who has plans for the BD please have them e-mail me at wre23@shaw.ca Thanks a mil for any help l can get ---Saffiesue

[bronney]

Hey Cracroft, I used to stay in Rexdale and I guess I am a little homesick so I browse over to the Canada group :)

I''m almost finished with my SS build and perhaps you can take a look at my thread for some inspiration. Will update the later steps tonite. I actually find cutting the hinges AFTER taped easier.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609035

[Cracroft]

I''m almost finished with my SS build and perhaps you can take a look at my thread for some inspiration. Will update the later steps tonite. I actually find cutting the hinges AFTER taped easier.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=609035

Nice thread and build thanks for sending it to me.

I'm almost complete now myself the only thing I need to do is solder a Deans onto my speed control. I'm still learning about soldering myself, wires don't seem so bad to do, just not sure about the Deans.

Merry Christmas/Happy Holidays
John

[bronney]

I found this before I did my deans:
http://www.misbehavin-rc.com/pit-lane/deans-plugs/g-deans-procedure.asp

It's perfect. If you tin the tabs enough, the solder actually flows back to the wires for a nice hot joint. Be careful though these deans stays hot long after you solder, just let them cool. And always remember to stick in the heat shrink tubing first :)