Venice 90

[Kmot]

Okay, my mistake it seems. They do not come with a 700 motor installed. :rolleyes:

The box arrived and all looked okay, but when I opened it there was evidence of the tip of the bow puncturing through the protective styrofoam and carboard box.The boat was wrapped in thin foam wrap and then bagged in a plastic baggie. I was worried that the punctured foam might mean a damaged boat. Fortunately, there is only the slightest 'rubbing' mark on it so it is acceptable. Otherwise, the boat looks magnificent. I do not know what type of wood it is planked with. Inside, some of the structure is particle board. The hull inside, is coated with a waterproofing varnish or something. The seats look killer! They are made of vinyl, I think. The fittings are chrome plated plastic. The outer surface is a very high gloss, deep varnish or polyurethane. The bottom is a high gloss white paint. The stand is cut from 1/2" thick rubber foam, and assembled with four aluminum tubes. The inside of the boat contained a baggie with various pieces such as windshields, motor mount, etc.

I think it should have had a metal plate attached to the point of the bow. I am going to make one for this boat.

It's huge! It certainly has a lot of 'presence'. I need to figure out what scale it is and see if I can find a driver figurine for it.

Here is the "blow by blow" as I unboxed it. :D

[jeepers1940]

Very nice boat, Tom; glad the shipping damage was minimal. Believe you missed one view of the unveiling - big smile on face of happy owner, no foam wrapping. We're looking forward to seeing her run. Please share that with us, too.
Bill

[Jim Duda]

How 'bout a video of a drag race to the first marker with Horrible Evil's tugboat...?

[HorribleHarry]

Hey you guys, has anyone seen my 80mm propeller?
thanks,
Harry

[Kmot]

LOL...

Well, let me ask you this. Are these classic wood boats, in real life, very fast boats?

Should I put two Speed 700's geared to one output shaft?

Or just a lo-po 700 size motor for easy cruising?

[patmat2350]

The maker's web page shows some pretty good performance... can only assume they put in the recommended Speed 700.
http://www.faidistribution.com/pages_an/bateaux/venice_90.htm

PM

[Shaun Hendricks]

That thing looks like it could benefit from some spray rails! :D

[pompebled]

That thing looks like it could benefit from some spray rails! :D

Yep, this hull reminds me of how my M.A.S. ran without sprayrails (very, very wet...)

Very nice boat though!

Regards, Jan.

[LtDoc]

Kmot,
"Sorry, but it looks terrible! I think you should send it to me.", he said jealously...
- 'Doc

[Old 8140]

Kmot,

Dam you're getting good at building!!! :D Built it before getting it out of the box! Now that is fast. ;)
Nice looking boat. Good luck with it. :)

Jim (out at the mail box ;) )

[Kmot]

Thanks for the link Pat!

[Kmot]

Three motors to choose from. Johnson Mini-EV; Astro 25; Graupner 700BB. Or a gearbox with two motors!

http://www.fototime.com/8216651A0FA9E25/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/410AC18173A72EA/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/CA5DEE9DDB69214/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/6833185907E07B9/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/6F6E8FCF2C21BA3/standard.jpg

[patmat2350]

K.I.S.S.
One motor! Does the boat include any motor mounts?
One pack or two?

PM

[Kmot]

Yes, it has a motor mount and the battery trays are on each side of the motor.

[Kmot]

I have a spare E-Maxx tranny. I could install two motors, and a two speed. :D

[Phill McCracken]

Hey guys,i have a Monaco 100 runs speed 785 14 cell 3800`s. runs with fleetmasters riveria 80(i took the pics of his boat on the water... actually) We drag race side by side at about 25 km/h or 15 mph ;)

[Kmot]

Phill, where are the pics? :D

[fleetmaster]

The motor supplied to us in oz is a Johnson 785lp.It is fitted with a torque ring and is a tough unit with inbuilt fan for cooling.Though i would recommend water cooling it as there isn't much circulation when you have the hatch on. How many cells are you going to use? My riviera 80 is on 12 ib 3000's,and as Phill states his 100 is on 14x3800's from fastelectrics.com. One piece of advice i strongly suggest you adhere to is to use the supplied trim tabs if using more than 8 cells.These hulls are not stable above 2/3 throttle without them.Yours could well be the same and i would hate to hear of it it flipping and sinking :eek: My one has a plastic uni joint and has given no trouble.I just made sure to have the motor mounted nice and true and the shaft well greased.Phill's 100 on the other hand came with the rubber joint as i noted in your pics.His one failed after around four 10 minute runs,60metres off shore. :eek: I punted it back to shore.BTW he didn't hit anything.We run on the 2000 Olympics Regatta Centre at Penrith. Best of luck and i will follow this thread to see how you go. :) PM me if you would like to discuss further.Small no. of pics on my blog to check out too. Top speed Est.30-33kph :D 4.5kg rt

[fleetmaster]

Here it is with Bond.Ted Bond at the helm. :D

[Kmot]

Fleet: she is a beauty! Thanks for posting the pics. :)

[MILLERTIME]

That bear is a better driver than Kmot!!!
Ha Ha

[Phill McCracken]

Hey Kmot check my blog the pics are in there enjoy!

[fleetmaster]

That bear is a better driver than Kmot!!!
Ha Ha
If you have an incident you always have someone else to blame when you have a driver :)

[Kmot]

Phill, just looked at your pictures. Well done, mate! You have broken two uni's and a prop. Hah-hah, nothing like "too much power". ;)

[Shaun Hendricks]

Needs to be towing a water-skiing squirrel... LOL! :D

[Kmot]

I need a universal coupling, 5mm x 4mm x 35mm. I don't want to use the rubber tubing that came with the boat.

What are my options? I looked at both single and double Cardan joints. Ball and socket universal joints. And flex shaft couplers.

Which would be the best for this boat? Big torque, and big prop.

[Phill McCracken]

Kmot
Yes the original coupling is not overly strong and tore itself in half, right at the end of my run of batts for the day,i was killing time burning them up.During a flat out acceleration run and about 40 metres away it suddenly free revved at slowed to halt.Fleetmaster came to the rescue and gently as can be punted me back to shore.(after refitting tired batts).oh and both our boats came with 785 torque ring eqiupped Big Blocks in the box!

I now use a Eagle Hobby Products uni part no EQU-AR8101(pics in my blog for you)
You have to slightly enlarge the smaller end of the brass coupling with a drill to fit the prop shaft.
The uni joint is steel and seems strong enough,the concern is the plastic uni "fingers" they twist and lift, trying to seperate from the steel uni centre under the torque.It happens within 5 mins of operation.Never let me down but as insurance i fit a Zip Tie on the fingers(check the pic!) and it works fine, until i hit something and broke the prop and seperated the uni you see in the pic.(had to inflate my rescue raft and row out to retrieve it.....the group of on lookers thought it was good) :censored: :mad: :censored: oh also kmot,you`ll need the trim tabs the boat goes so fast and dry it bobs badly at high speed and mine torque rolls a fair bit to the right (sometimes) Yes the troubles of "TOO MUCH POWER" :eek:

[Phill McCracken]

Shaun,i have considered trying to rig up something to tow,but mounting it on the boat securely is the problem,but it would look cool. I have some onboard and shore side vids also :p

[fleetmaster]

I need a universal coupling, 5mm x 4mm x 35mm. I don't want to use the rubber tubing that came with the boat.

What are my options? I looked at both single and double Cardan joints. Ball and socket universal joints. And flex shaft couplers.

Which would be the best for this boat? Big torque, and big prop.
Kmot,ask your retailer for a spare uni to suit the Riviera,as that's what mine came with.Mine runs on 12 cells and hasn't had a problem.Yes I have hit objects too that have broken the prop.My advice is to use the supplied plastic prop as it acts like a fuse,rather than a metal one which will pass the shock on down the line.

[fleetmaster]

Hi there fellas,i've uploaded a short clip of my woody in action at the 2000 olympics rowing venue. Kmot; This will give you an idea of performance out of the 785lp.They cost AU$25.Also keep in mind that on this video i was running the factory standard hull with the trim tabs at quite an alarming angle.Therefore creating heaps of drag but taming the wild porpoising beast from capsizing.[I have since added lightweight body filler to flatten out it's profile near the transom and repainted the under side,also refinishing the whole boat with automotive two pack clear.read:great finish :D ]If time and weather permits[winter in Sydney],I will try to get some new footage with my 80 and Phills 100 at the same venue.His boat is a bohemoth compared to mine and i enjoy launching off his wake.[Like trailing the Queen Mary ;) ].Also you might notice the distinct sound difference between the two.His is much louder,you can tell when he drops the hammer.This must be either a vibrational drag/imbalance induced sound or just a plain accoustics phenomenon due to the larger cavity in the hull.Phill:I told you PhillMcCavity was more appropriate! :D :censored:

[Kmot]

Thanks for the info, guys.

fleetmaster: your video is quite nice. The Riv is very fast. Looks great!

[fleetmaster]

Thanks for the info, guys.

fleetmaster: your video is quite nice. The Riv is very fast. Looks great!
No worries. ;) Glad to help out another Big Woody Club member. :D Hope you get as much satisfaction from yours as i have mine.Planning on making a 14 cell pack for trial purposes.Will see if she can take the extra thrust :eek: Added bonus is more grunt to hose down a certain Monaco :D :D :D I'm looking in your direction McCracken ;)

[Phill McCracken]

:cool: BRING IT ON! Little Wood Pecker,i`ll turn you into matchsticks ;)

[fleetmaster]

:cool: BRING IT ON! Little Wood Pecker,i`ll turn you into matchsticks ;)
Catch me if you can 'Pumba' :D

[Kmot]

I have ordered a Graupner 4mm x 4mm universal joint and a 5mm end to make it work on the Venice. I also ordered the Graupner 4mm to 3/16 drive dog adapter so I can experiment with my box of props. However, I also ordered a butt load of 4mm screw-on Graupner and RA props. So I should eventually find the best match for motor and prop on this big woodie. :)

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/gr3544.jpg

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/gr3541.jpg

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/gr2321.jpg

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/gr231432.jpg

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/gr230830.jpg

http://www.hobby-lobby.com/images/ra3007.jpg

[fleetmaster]

At least you know that quality won't be an issue with that brand.They look pretty tough.What motor have you chosen to supply the said ponies?

[Phill McCracken]

Looks very similar to my uni joint though i have brass ends,it seems to be strong enough though the plastic fingers twist and lift thus trying to seperate from the pins. Here are some helpful pics for you kmot. The Zip Tie around the centre of the uni appears to add some durability as i have around 20 runs on it now and after hitting something and breaking the prop the plastic fingers stood up to the challange as you saw earlier. Also a pic of the destroyed rubber coupling.

[Jim Duda]

Like this...?

[Shaun Hendricks]

Whoa... wouldn't that play havoc with the shaft balance? :D

[Kmot]

Good ideas fella's. I think heatshrink tubing is a good option as well. I use it on Constant Velocity joints on my offroad racers.

[Kmot]

What motor have you chosen to supply the said ponies?
Not decided yet. The 700BB would be simplest. I tend to do things the hard way though. :p

[Jim Duda]

Balance wasn't really an issue...not on the wimpy 3600 motor @ 8.4 volts it was used on. Since replaced with a flex coupler. The U-joint separated when the prop hit something in the middle of the lake. No rescue boat and I didn't want to go through that again...(wink)

[Shaun Hendricks]

Oh... okay. Didn't know it was turning so slow. I think I would've used heat-shrink or rubber tubing over the joint before zip-ties, but whatever works! :D I'm amazed you aren't getting much cross contact in there. Those ties seem to fit perfectly (width wise)!

[Phill McCracken]

Yep Jim that would be the idea,though i seem to be outdone by your contraption there!
P.S Always carry a rescue boat,i also hit something and had to inflate and row out,was getting cocky and had gained good reliability,was tempted to leave rescue craft at home........Lucky i didn`t :o

[Phill McCracken]

Oh by the way OME and kmot, i have some vids in the video section,they are both shore side and on board....yes thats on board! Fleetmasters boat is also out there with mine too!

[patmat2350]

...

[patmat2350]

Yo, Kmot... try that puppy out yet?
After making a few runs, might I suggest checking the play in the plastic prop shaft bushings? Yes, I might! And of course, they're an odd size- 7mm OD x 4mm ID, not something you'll find in balls or bronze anywhere. Of course, someone with a lathe can turn brass adapters to mount 5/32" x 1/4" bronze sleeves, which can then be reamed out to 4mm... one would also want to have the shaft worked down to a true 4mm with a file, as it's not ground stock, but somewhat oversize cold rolled.

And while the boat's in the shop, build a new cradle, that foam thing goes all squishy and falls over.

And another thing! Check the runout on that prop, it only has plastic M4 threads... A nice plastic Graupner from Hobby Lobby will have a threaded brass insert, or you can even look into a scale 3-blader.

Oh, and before drilling holes and mounting the non-scale trim tabs, check and see if you really need them... their location can be high & dry when carrying the weight of two 7-cell packs forward.

Hey, I almost forgot! A direct drive 700 pulls enough current to melt ESCs that aren't rated for big amps (how do I know this? Let me show you the toast...). But a 600 running 3:1 reduction is easy on the ESC and the boat goes almost as fast, but the motor gets pretty warm... I'm thinking a 700 on 2:1 reduction would be perfect.

Pat M

[Kmot]

Good info Pat, thanks.

Just day dreaming? ;)

[Kmot]

...
???

[patmat2350]

here's just a little peek...

[Kmot]

Pat, my manual does suggest you bend the trim tabs.

Quote: "You can slightly adjust symmetrically the angle of the trim tabs, this will change the attitude of your model when running."

Are you doing a review for your magazine?

Yo, Kmot... try that puppy out yet?

It's a long boring story why I have not been able to work on any model for the past three weeks. I won't mention in-law invasion, wedding, pool construction, squirrel invasion, waiting for pest control dude, workshop organizing, watching grandkid, etc. :rolleyes:

[patmat2350]

Pat, my manual does suggest you bend the trim tabs.
Yes, but only use the tabs if needed to adjust the boat's attitude. I like my boat's attitude, and the tabs are out of the water! So why drill holes in a perfectly good hull? :p


Are you doing a review for your magazine?
Subliminal message follows:

BUY A SUBSCRIPTION TO SHIPS IN SCALE. NOW!

[fleetmaster]

[QUOTE=patmat2350]Yes, but only use the tabs if needed to adjust the boat's attitude. I like my boat's attitude, and the tabs are out of the water! So why drill holes in a perfectly good hull?

perhaps Phill McCracken would like to step up here and offer his experiences with a 14 cell 785 Johnson setup.Albeit with out trim tabs. :eek: Read: OUT OF CONTROL ABOVE HALF THROTTLE. :confused:

[Kmot]

Right. Finally had a chance to get some work done. I can once again walk into my workshop. :p

http://www.fototime.com/AE8F15D2665DCF7/standard.jpg

So I was placing the Venice up on the shelf and my hand rubbed along the plastic cleat and it snapped off. :censored: It is only held in place by a 2mm size plastic nub and some sort of glue/ Or maybe just the hull varnish.

http://www.fototime.com/E63FAD79D53C39B/standard.jpg

I have decided on the Johnson Mini-EV motor. So next, it was time to set the angle of the dangle.

http://www.fototime.com/61B377DC1B4973C/standard.jpg

How did I set the angle? Well, I have a set of angle gauges.

http://www.fototime.com/CB99C11F747114F/standard.jpg

And lining up the prop shaft with the motor shaft, it turned out to be 20 degrees.

http://www.fototime.com/EBE9AA929F088BF/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/4B4373AC855E5AB/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/411EA1CA025EEF2/standard.jpg

This motor is heavy, about 1 Lb. I figured adding gussets to the mount would be wise. So I measured and scribed some gussets out on a piece of brass plate.

http://www.fototime.com/3503FBA982F395B/standard.jpg

I cut them out on my bandsaw, and then finished them with a file.

http://www.fototime.com/8C44288380FF9BC/standard.jpg

Then I scuffed up the aluminum mount and brass gussets with a 3M pad and mixed up some JB Weld epoxy. It has to dry for 6 hours so that is where I leave it for now. :)

http://www.fototime.com/76CF777F38DE56B/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/CC63F18D0874BFB/standard.jpg

[Kmot]

Okay, the motor mount is now gusseted and JB welded:

http://www.fototime.com/0F0A6B09F684779/standard.jpg

I used a countersink to make a pocket for the end of the Mini-EV:

http://www.fototime.com/769CE51AAF71F1D/standard.jpg

The motor will be attached with four bolts and spacers but I only have two spacers on hand. So I bolted it together to see how it will look:

http://www.fototime.com/F9BF4322673C9BD/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/8A537903AE06B07/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/6D0A3D2EDF4FA87/standard.jpg

I will be using a Raboesch water pick up and exit:

http://www.fototime.com/BD821C02A038172/standard.jpg

But they needed a biit of shine added to them. :D

http://www.fototime.com/4B35825312ADB2E/standard.jpg

The rudder is stamped aluminum and is pinned with three brass rivets to an aluminum shaft. The shaft had a thin (and I mean thin) coat of vaseline like lube. Better check yours and add some decent waterproof grease!

http://www.fototime.com/F3D35B107E7B7FA/standard.jpg

The leading edge was too broad, and so I gave it a knife edge treatment:

http://www.fototime.com/56F37FF0CC11A08/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/70024CE74CC5D0D/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/12332DBB2ECEFEB/standard.jpg

Dull aluminum rudders are not allowed on my boats! So I sanded it with progressively higher grit paper and finished it with 600 wet/dry and WD-40 as a lube:

http://www.fototime.com/5A0DF84C6CBAB6F/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/7AC8CF105F6C7F5/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/7489881FAAC74C7/standard.jpg

Then I let Mr. Boss Buff have a turn at it. Now it is nice and shiny the way I like it and it can be allowed in public. :p

http://www.fototime.com/38E724E9B713E07/standard.jpg

A few more pictures of the bling-bling:

http://www.fototime.com/293075F39BDA73A/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/8C879BF49E18399/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/F52045CD752A21D/standard.jpg

And trying on my RC Hydros Victory speedo for size:

http://www.fototime.com/820AFADF201BEBA/standard.jpg

That's all for today, folks!

[Kmot]

Here is the motor, all dressed up and ready for the boat. Brush coolers, can cooler, diode, capacitor, and Powerpoles:

http://www.fototime.com/E040C2AAA9367CC/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/610DC40CC6A70FC/standard.jpg

Patmat mentioned these, the nylon propshaft bushings. Joke. Drilled off center, not even a sloppy fit. More like a floosie in a port town fit. :p

The new, unused bushing has .020" clearance.

http://www.fototime.com/CC91768BEA3214F/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/DE777F47FE1C22D/standard.jpg

Here is the motor inside the boat. Still lots of room around the cooling apparatus that will be installed.

http://www.fototime.com/02278C10E585529/standard.jpg

And here is the exit fitting on the starboard side:

http://www.fototime.com/FBF5BEA143EE552/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/D7988029543CD00/standard.jpg

One of the exhaust tips fell off while handling the hull. :rolleyes:

http://www.fototime.com/BCC0799337037CF/standard.jpg

The Rx and switch plate was cut too short to fit on the wood supports. :rolleyes:

http://www.fototime.com/6F6F98902DD57BB/standard.jpg

Mounted the water pick up tube:

http://www.fototime.com/3739CA9D5438303/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/2FB0EA3AD6689B0/standard.jpg

The dashboard has been removed. What is Kmot up to?

http://www.fototime.com/C520D95D1BE65BC/standard.jpg

The dashboard is made of a thin piece of clear lucite, which then has a thinner piece of wood laminate on it:

http://www.fototime.com/41092E070A82E36/standard.jpg

Then, there is a full length sticker applied which gives the wood a glossy varnished loook and has the instrument graphics on it:

http://www.fototime.com/2F3CEBBC9750D27/standard.jpg

Except this one had a couple spots where the decal was torn or something and so it looks 'chipped'. And, we can do much better on the instruments than these stickers......... :rolleyes:

[Phill McCracken]

Kmot,nice pics you have of the build! I have some new pics out on the water with fleetmaster in my blog for you! What size is that johnson motor your running?

I braced my engine but with a small piece of wood wedged under the engine,experiance with fleetmaster`s showed the engine torque was making the mount lean back and dropping the motor and therefore the angle.

YES you have to be so careful concerning anything decreative glued to the deck etc, if you even look at it the wrong way it falls off,fleetmaster lost some in the water(they simply fell off)

I had a custom stainless steel rudder made after my original unit bent....then broke as fleetmaster tried to straighten it(not his fault...we knew it would snap,but tried anyway) it`s a tad heavy but would slice a log up and not bend now!

Had no trouble with my dash...it did fall out but some super glue put it right back in it`s place after i caught the bottom edge with the drivers feet one day.

[Kmot]

Phill:

The motor is a Johnson Mini-EV:

http://www.enigmaindustries.com/Johnson_Mini-EV.htm

I have already planned for a support under this heavy motor. Not only did I gusset the mount but I am going to carve a block of hardwood that will slide between the motor and the mount, supporting it at the rear part.

The fittings are a huge disappointment. On a $320 USD model they should have been made of pot metal at the very least. That way they could have been polished. Chrome plating on plastic will rub off soon. That is if the fittings last. However, I have already thought of a solution for losing them. I am going to screw them down with 00-80 screws. The air scoops already have screw hole mounts. The ventilators will need to be drilled. The exhaust tips I will drill up through the 'pipe' and then pin them to the hull. I have not looked at the windscreens yet (still in the bag) but I am sure they will need similar treatment.

I was trying to remove the transmission handle from the dash when the dash decided to part from the boat. Turns out it had been held in place by three tiny specks of glue.

[Kmot]

Phill, your piccy of the two boats stuffed with stuffies is my new desktop! :D

[Phill McCracken]

Yeah! Thats COOL :cool: :D They are some top little pics,unfortunatly i the other vids i took of the day are too large to upload onto here,they are external vids of side on and rear shot acceleration and manouvering vids ie seeing the boat climb out of the water(Fleetmasters just jumps right out...mine has to climb up and then right out,being so much bigger)

For patmat regarding trim tabs here is what mine are set at,the right hand side is deeper to TRY and counter torque roll! :( As Fleetmaster stated,any more the half throttle without tabs instantly resulted in a porpousing Monaco 100 :eek:

[Phill McCracken]

Yeah Kmot, Fleetmaster is highly :censored: about his chrome plating coming off the plastic...not mention that it`s orange underneath.Mine however is good so far. Fleetmasters riveria is around $350 AUS and my Monaco 100 was $485 AUS i think,damn thing owes me about $1500AUS now :eek: :censored: (had to get complete elecs for it inc charger)...$100 for a rescue raft and $20 for a 12v pump is cheap insurance :o

I had trouble drilling out the exhaust tips,i recall fleetmaster and i using a small handdrill from the rear of the tips and being paitent,after i tried drilling through them from the front whilst still attached to the boat....as soon as the elec drill i was using started to bite it just ripped the tips right off the transom....5 min epoxy is what holds them on now and seems nice and strong!

[pitviper51]

that is a awsome looking project when we gonna see the hole thing, it just teasers haha,, what type of wood is the planking thanks
mike

[Kmot]

the other vids i took of the day are too large to upload onto here:
No problem. You have too good, and free, video hosts out there. Putfile and YouTube. Putfile has a 25MB max upload limit, and YouTube has a 100MB upload limit. So, let's see those videos!! ;)

www.putfile.com

www.youtube.com

[Kmot]

After making a few runs, might I suggest checking the play in the plastic prop shaft bushings? Yes, I might! And of course, they're an odd size- 7mm OD x 4mm ID, not something you'll find in balls or bronze anywhere.

Pat, and all:

4x7 ball bearings actually are quite standard. Even flanged versions. I just ordered a set of stainless steel/ceramic ball hybrid flanged bearings from Boca. Won't have to worry about them rusting up and I got the rubber sealed versions so the lube will stay inside. Boca has lots of 4x7 to choose from:

http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.aspx?p=quicksearchbearing

[jmolwitz]

The real deal had a pair of 327 chevy's . You can run 2 sp700's off one speed control a couple of ways . All that gear looks so good sticking out the bottom of a fast boat . Much better acceleration for a few more amps :D :cool:

[Kmot]

Man, it was hot today! 103* and my a/c in the shed kept popping the c/b. First time that has happened. :confused:

So anyway, I decided 00-80 was too small and went with 0-80 instead. I drilled the holes using a pin vise and a .043" drill bit. Then I tapped them with a 0-80 bottoming tap. I got 19 holes finished and on the 20th hole I broke the tap. :censored: $8 bucks down the drain. :rolleyes:

Here's one of the air scoops screwed down with 0-80 stainless steel screws:

http://www.fototime.com/81DA96BAEFCA587/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/04F4DC2E3AF58C1/standard.jpg

The screws, and a glow plug for size comparison:

http://www.fototime.com/EBF7522287D4B35/standard.jpg

The tools I used:

http://www.fototime.com/E76808D0B5DC512/standard.jpg

The rear hatch air scoop showing the screws in position before tightening them:

http://www.fototime.com/6EC1CD166F2AC3F/standard.jpg

Next, I drilled pilot holes in the rope guides using an .025" bit. It's really tiny!

http://www.fototime.com/C441BD744ACAEFC/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/0015FC3A5EE8C2B/standard.jpg

Then I followed that up with the .043" bit again:

http://www.fototime.com/5F9B1B4BA5A4970/standard.jpg

Then I tapped the holes and installed the screws:

http://www.fototime.com/ABB7A9E9D93A9E2/standard.jpg

Next I drilled the ventilators. I have drilled only two holes in each. I was going to do four holes, but not sure now. It will be held fine with two screws. On these, I used 0-80 socket head screws:

http://www.fototime.com/DBE5F8FEFB535BD/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/80F334937F0302B/standard.jpg

These are the ones I was doing when I broke my tap off in the deck. :(

http://www.fototime.com/882805008F020FF/standard.jpg

Anyway, all the fittings are now secured. Except for the cleats. They are going to be difficult. But I have an idea for them.

In the meantime, I started on the new dash panel:

http://www.fototime.com/6FA4F3FE9F2EA36/standard.jpg

That's all folks! :)

[pitviper51]

for god sakes show us the hole thng, one pic!! this is to cool looking great work!!!
mike

[Kmot]

Already have! Here ya go if you missed it:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5563984&postcount=1

[Kmot]

Okay, here is a pic of the whole thing :p

http://www.fototime.com/A8C76B4D6A0CBEB/standard.jpg

[Phill McCracken]

ok Kmot thanks for the tip on the vids,i`ll see how i go! My vent at the front of the hatch held up surprisingly well as i fitted a small zip tie in between the vanes to use as a handle to lift the hatch up,lasted for ages until the wood swelled up and i couldn`t lift the hatch,vent came off eventually. A few drops of super glue sees it bulletproof now! Never thought of hull shot before....the riveria and monaco are all differently shaped underneath i can see.

[pitviper51]

one word stunning boat, where did you order it from and put a link up!!! i can see this as a future project!
mike

[Kmot]

Mike, these boats are distributed in the USA by Global Hobby. The retail and online/mailorder outlets for Global Hobby are the Hobby People stores and online/mailorder:

http://www.hobbypeople.net/mfr/EQUIPG01.asp

[Phill McCracken]

Kmot,vid is up in youtube,under monaco 100 vid in the auto section.
The other one will be up soon.

[Old 8140]

Kmot,

Can I come in from the mailbox? It's really getting hot out there!! :)

Jim

[Kmot]

LOL, okay Jim. :D

[Kmot]

Kmot,vid is up in youtube,under monaco 100 vid in the auto section.
The other one will be up soon.


Nice!! It looks majestic on the water. And the speed is very scale. Well done! :)

[Phill McCracken]

Other vid is up now,shame it is a little grainy but it seems to happen after loading them to youtube

[fleetmaster]

Kmot,it looks as though you are approaching your maiden voyage real soon.Perhaps a little linseed oil on the inside to protect those planks is in order.As is a little marine grease around the shafts.I find my rudder weeping a little h2o every 3-4 hrs of running. Wish I had screwed my fittings down like you.Though the Riv doesn't have the rope guides.I lost a cleat on my maiden,lowering it to the water.Grrrr.The plastic chrome finish wore off the vents pretty quickly too.V. disappointing. Michael.

[pitviper51]

awsoem site,, alot of sweet sailboats and other boats as well, to many choices!!! hahah
mike

[Kmot]

Fleet, I routinely use Prather Cable Grease (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDR02&P=7) on all my propshafts and rudder shafts and also on a flex cable inside the Kyosho Dolphin outboard motor. It is exceptional for the purpose of lubing and helping keep the water ingress at bay. Although you can't keep it all out!

As for the interior waterproofing, I am undecided. I can see that Equipage applied some sort of lacquer/varnish/polyurethane or something on the planks and I believe also on the particle board. But it sure does seem thin everywhere. So yes, I was going to apply something myself. Just not sure yet how I want to do it.I was thinking of possibly painting the interior of the hull area where I can access it.

I have posted on the Global forums about the fittings. I also suggested that they encourage Equipage to make the fittings from cast pot metal instead of plastic.

[green-boat]

I also suggested that they encourage Equipage to make the fittings from cast pot metal instead of plastic.
I would like to see the same, I would buy them in bulk. It is so hard to find the old Aristo-Craft fittings anymore. I liked their clamshell ventilators. I would even consider making a die (if I knew how) to stamp them out of metal.

[Kmot]

I just received my Boca Bearings ceramic/stainless hybrid "Lightning" ball bearings I ordered. Supposed to be 4mm ID. They won't fit the 4mm shaft. :rolleyes:

4mm = 0.1574 inch

These bearings measure 0.1535 inch -OR- 3.8989mm :rolleyes:

I measured the prop shaft = 0.157 inch

Boy, it's hard to find good help nowadays....... :rolleyes:

I am going to have to machine off .0035 inch from the shaft. :mad:

[green-boat]

Freeze the shaft and heat up the bearings.

[Kmot]

No, I got the ones with rubber seals. And besides, I want to be able to remove the shaft for maintenance.

[Kmot]

When I installed the water pickup tube I measured my distances from the underside of the hull and then split the difference from the rudder to the Rx and servo plates. And then drilled my hole. Stupid error on my part. I did not "check twice and cut once". I will never learn that rule, it seems.... :rolleyes:

Well I got lucky because I basically missed the large flow of glue that was used to hold the rudder support in the hull. But I was close enough that the rubber gasket and metal washer did not sit flush. This had to be corrected because it made the water pickup tube sort of cocked to one side.

The glue is probably an epoxy of some sort. But it is white in color. Never seen it before. It is hard as a rock, and brittle too. You cannot dent it. You can't scratch it. I used a hole saw and made a clearance by carefully cutting through the epoxy until I just barely reached the wood planking.

http://www.fototime.com/95A6784103C9A7F/standard.jpg

I had to use a mini chisel and hammer to chip out the last bit of rock hard epoxy inside the area the hole saw had cut.

http://www.fototime.com/650F4020349EDF2/standard.jpg

Now the water pick up tube sits square to the hull floor and the rubber gasket seals properly.

http://www.fototime.com/A6DE47B393C4B65/standard.jpg

The 4x7 flanged bearings were dead on at the outside diameter and fit the stuffing tube precisely.

http://www.fototime.com/8CEE01487CCA1BC/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/FE7A65329205A20/standard.jpg

After sizing and polishing the prop shaft:

http://www.fototime.com/A61A6F7BE7057D4/standard.jpg

Built the Graupner universal joint:

http://www.fototime.com/40B7EA91167F292/standard.jpg

Test fitting the motor/universal/propshaft:

http://www.fototime.com/91919D267BC3F1A/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/B34F2D79F59BCCE/standard.jpg

:)

[fleetmaster]

You'll have to show us an underside pic of where that pickup protrudes.
I'll try and take a pic of my home made job and give you an idea of where it comes out.I wanted to make it in the prop wash as these boats don't really go that quick.It seems to work well.I drilled out one of the exhaust tips on the transom and epoxied a piece of aluminium tube in the centre of it for the silicone tube to join to.Note to self:use the word flange next time.Can sound quite suggestive when used in correct context. :D
The only thing with this as your exhaust is the lack of a tell tale for blockages. :(
Btw.Loved your polished rudder and can't believe i haven't done mine yet!
Looking real slick :cool:
Currently looking for some material to replicate marine carpet as the riviera comes in a less convincing state compared to yours.Will take pic to show you what i mean.Have you considered nav. lights for times when daylight is expiring quicker than your cells? :cool:

[fleetmaster]

These are my rushed pics as promised.No fancy stuff here,just point and shoot.There will be a couple more on my blog too. ;)

[patmat2350]

I am going to have to machine off .0035 inch from the shaft. :mad:

Probably not that much.
a) Not easy to measure ID of the bearing without an air gage or precision pin set... probably VERY close to 4mm, maybe a wee bit of interference to a 4mm +0/-a skosh precision shaft.
b) The shaft ISN'T precision stock, looks cold-rolled... which tends to run over nominal. I spun mine in a lathe and resized it a bit with a file and emery cloth... fits nicely in the bronze bearings I used.

I like those Bocas though! Slicker'n the cobble job I did to get English bronze bearings in there.

Pat Matthews

[Kmot]

Pat, I think I know how to precision measure. ;)

Been doing it for over 30 years. Learned it in trade school and honed it when building Pratt & Whitney aircraft engines. Trust me, my measurments are exact. And you are right, it was VERY close to 4mm. Close, but no cigar! It was 1/10th of a mm (.0035 inch) undersized.

The shaft may not be precision stock but it measured 4mm (.157 inch) at 10 different places. Close enough for me to call it 4mm........

I have ordered from Boca before. I have used countless bearings from different manufacturers. This is the first time I have found some undersized. I was surprised. And ticked off. Because these tiny items cost me $11.95 each. I figured they should be right.

Anyway, no matter. The shaft is sized to the bearings and everything is in place. Time to move on........

[patmat2350]

Sorry Kmot, I clearly didn't recognize... but you know there's folks who would try to make the determination using the inside nibs on a dial caliper!
PM

[Umi_Ryuzuki]

Sorry Kmot, I clearly didn't recognize... but you know there's folks who would try to make the determination using the inside nibs on a dial caliper!
PM

That's meeee!

Wait, what are Calipers? :confused: :p

All three boats are Nice, The after market hold downs on the fittings are especially "tight".

:cool:

[fleetmaster]

Been thinking about acquiring that little shovel nose hydro shown on the global site too.Does anyone else have one?Or have you seen one go?
Wasn't overly impressed with the one on the video demo.It didn't seem to have enough power to blow the rear end out of the water,nor get up on a plane properly.

Perhaps a brushless/4-5 cell lipo is in order. :D

Oh and a recolouring of that cowl too.Red and green don't do much for me,but if you did a bit of work to replicate one of those classic thunders you would have something awesome looking with minimal build time.
[Mind drifts off.Picturing a scale clothed and vested driver,zoomies sticking through the cowl with a heat affected finish.Lift the cowl to see a scale decorated and plumbed Merlin from fastelectrics.com.On the water running on the ragged edge.Massive rooster tail,wisps coming from the sponsons.
Bearing down on an unexpecting Monaco! :D ]

Kmot,do you have a pilot in waiting for your craft?

[fleetmaster]

For the spelling of the following words:

Aluminum and color.An outside source has brought it to my attention that some may see my spelling of these as Aluminium and colour may cause others to think that i cannot spell.This is the English and Australian correct spelling.

Also,kangaroos do not appear in your backyard unless you live in a rural area.
They are a timid creature not an attacking one and nor are koalas.[They don't generally drop from trees to attack ones head and face. :p]
Last time i saw one was in a zoo.In fact thats the only place other than tv.
How many alligators are there roaming the streets of New York? :rolleyes:

Sorry to deviate so far off topic also!! :p

[Kmot]

I needed to do something about securing the cleats. I decided a compromise was the best solution. I do not know if any full scale cleats have a hole in the center to accomodate a single mounting bolt. But I imagined they could! :D

So I drilled through the center of them. Firstly, drilling up to the size where I tap the threads. Secondly, drilling a hole to clear the head of the 0-80 socket screw. At least they won't be taking a holiday from the deck of the boat! :p

http://www.fototime.com/A5D75EA866248F5/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/39DFEFB48C431C7/standard.jpg

The boat stand..................... :rolleyes:

On the full colour artwork of the packing box they had a nice looking plexiglass and aluminium tube boat stand. What came with my kit was a couple pieces of foam rubber and the aluminum tubes. Total rubbish. It flexes, it tilts, it sags. You will notice I have been using a Robart Super Stand (for airplanes mainly) whilst working on this boat. On top of it all, it doesn't fit the hull correctly. If you place the front piece where it fits the hull, the rear piece doesn't fit. And vice versa. If you place the rear piece where it fits the hull, there is no room for the prop. :rolleyes: And the front doesn't fit.

http://www.fototime.com/4EA34F6A32F0767/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/79F4329D6838047/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/90605947B3B61D5/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/4147BBDA1625D81/standard.jpg

Looks like a proper stand is part of the mod's necessary with this boat. I purchased the timber today. Stay tuned.......... ;)

[patmat2350]

Fittings- You could always try making them!
Everything you see in this picture is done by hand, or with the help of a standard mini lathe and mill (no CNC). Dremel, files, & polishing rouge. By Jack Kipfer of Ontario.
Pat M

p.s.: The gas cap is threaded and is attached with a little safety chain.

[patmat2350]

Looks like a proper stand is part of the mod's necessary with this boat. I purchased the timber today. Stay tuned.......... ;)

I made a wooden boat stand, but sawed off chunks from the foam rubber thing to serve as pads. It's nice rubber- high density, firm- doesn't get sticky next to the paint.

Pat M

[Kmot]

p.s.: The gas cap is threaded and is attached with a little safety chain.
Now that is Classy!!

[fleetmaster]

I needed to do something about securing the cleats. I decided a compromise was the best solution. I do not know if any full scale cleats have a hole in the center to accomodate a single mounting bolt. But I imagined they could! :D

So I drilled through the center of them. Firstly, drilling up to the size where I tap the threads. Secondly, drilling a hole to clear the head of the 0-80 socket screw. At least they won't be taking a holiday from the deck of the boat! :p

http://www.fototime.com/A5D75EA866248F5/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/39DFEFB48C431C7/standard.jpg

The boat stand..................... :rolleyes:

On the full colour artwork of the packing box they had a nice looking plexiglass and aluminium tube boat stand. What came with my kit was a couple pieces of foam rubber and the aluminum tubes. Total rubbish. It flexes, it tilts, it sags. You will notice I have been using a Robart Super Stand (for airplanes mainly) whilst working on this boat. On top of it all, it doesn't fit the hull correctly. If you place the front piece where it fits the hull, the rear piece doesn't fit. And vice ve
rsa. If you place the rear piece where it fits the hull, there is no room for the prop. :rolleyes: And the front doesn't fit.

http://www.fototime.com/4EA34F6A32F0767/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/79F4329D6838047/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/90605947B3B61D5/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/4147BBDA1625D81/standard.jpg

Looks like a proper stand is part of the mod's necessary with this boat. I purchased the timber today. Stay tuned.......... ;)


Thanks for using them in context.
I epoxied the tubes in place,which made a huge difference to stability.I must admit though that the Riviera stand is a lot simpler and smaller to suit the hull.
The prop and rudder overhang the stand.
Be sure to post a pic of your new stand.I notice that Phill seems to struggle when hauling his boat around.Takes up a fair amount if space in his Corolla boot(trunk) too.Down side of such a heavy and cumbersome rig.Perhaps he should buy a ute? :D

[Phill McCracken]

Listen here ROOSTER TAIL boy,that shovel nose thingy your on about...will need it`s shovel nose to dig it`s own grave one my MONACO`s had it`s way with it! :D
I do have to admit the colour :confused: (i`m sure its spelt this way??) is pretty bad on them though. :(

Yes the Monaco is a bit of a handful to move around and does take up a good chunk of my boot space,have to be careful getting it out of cars,homes etc and vice versa.It`s a comfy fit with our two boats,rescue raft and controllers,batts etc.

My stand leaves a bit to be desired,it`s ok...very similar to the riveria stand but basically it`s like a larger heavy duty version.Doesn`t like getting bounced around in the back of my car thats for sure(weight of the 5kg boat just pounds away at it)
Here is a pic of my wheels.

[fleetmaster]

Here we are gentlemen.I hope you enjoy! :)