F3X - Indoor Pattern Plane

[Tim H.]

Hey guys, I posted plans a while back. Here are the updated plans. This is a work in progress. I'm hoping to get feedback from everybody that builds/mods one. Consider this an "open source" plane. Modify away and report your findings. I'm thinking Zig-Zag (sawtooth) LE on the next one.

Prototype flys very well, however, I've only been able to fly outdoors in a bit of wind. Indoors this week hopefully.

Plans posted are V1.2 V1.3 mods are fuselage is about 1.5" shorter. I'm thinking it's just a tad too long right now, but we'll see.

**UPDATE 10-22-06** New F3X Evo plans are almost done. I posted the parts templates in reply #29 below. New version has a shorter tail moment, more side area, and generaly a more ballanced airframe. I added 3D render and a 2 view below.

8.5x11 Letter Size tiled: www.foamyfactory.com/plans/F3X-Plans-Letter.zip
A4 size tiled: www.foamyfactory.com/plans/F3X-Plans-A4.zip

Have fun!

Tim H.

[3dflyindan]

ive built one and flown one (well flew twice) i went out in 15mph winds and it didnt perform well at all :D

with anything above 8-9mph the plane goes very pitch sensitive and it met its end at the top of a tall tree i managed to get it back but it wasnt pretty :D

the fuse is extremely long i think and is more a 3cell plane than 2cell

im building my second one at the mo.

my setup is-

-servos HS55's for the rear and a saturn for the airlerons (saturn was more than powerfull enough for the job

-motor cd-rom 20g spinnin a 8*4.3 GWS slow fly prop

-18amp esc

-GWS 4 channel rx

-kokam 340 3cell

this proved to be more than powerfull for the model

now lets get back to model 2 :d

dan

[Malves]

Very nice, Tim. Nice paint job, too.:) Any chance of a full sheet plan? I really don't like tiled plans.:D

[Tim H.]

Full sheet to come... I'm having trouble getting the A0 to format right, but I'm working on it.

I agree with Dan, in it's present form, 3 cell really helps. My proto is right at 5.8oz with no battery. I want to get the wt. down a bit.

Tim

[3dflyindan]

weight down yes thats true

i think you sould scale the plans down a little bit maybe ?

dan

[Tim H.]

That's in the works for V1.3 When I drew them, I didn't realise it would be as big as it is... It would be great in 6mm as an outdoor version right now...

[3dflyindan]

yes thats true i was considering making the original plans which is the ones i had to 150% make it from 6mm depron and maybe add one of tims new motors into it :D and see how that performs the fuse will probably be as long as a proper plane but hey it will look good in the air :D

dan

[3dflyindan]

this is the F3X 3dx next to a full fuse katana i made
there is loads of difference (katana has 24" w.s)

low res i know but its the best i can have at the mo.

dan

[bergfalke4]

Hi Tim!

I'm really happy to see you design a more 'patternish' Mini 3DX . I did build three Mini 3DX and have flown several hundred of flights with them. It is an incredible aircraft and I've had tremendous fun with it. Unfortunatley it lacked slightly when it came to precision flying. I could hover and torqueroll all day, but knife edge and slow rolls were always difficult

I'm out of Depron but as soon as I get more I'll build a prototype of the F3X. It's just the upgrade my fleet needs!

- David

[3dflyindan]

david

its well worth it when you actually fly it :D

dan

[dcronkhite]

Tim,

I think it needs a little (very little) LESS side area aft of the canopy.. and it could use a bit more wing area unless you can get it down under 6.5 ounces.

[bergfalke4]

The kevlar bracing instructions were great! Very informative.

- David

[Aio_1]

...Any chance of a full sheet plan? I really don't like tiled plans

Tim,

How do you draw the plans?
If you use CAD software would you mind posting the original drawing file so that those of us with access to suitable software can view, modify or print it that way?

I spent much of yesterday drawing myself a rather similarly shaped plane. Perhaps I'll build yours first as it may take a little longer to chose a shape I'm satisfied with for my OD and I have a date with a large indoor hall this Saturday.

Thanks for sharing,

Aidan

[Tim H.]

Tim,

I think it needs a little (very little) LESS side area aft of the canopy.. and it could use a bit more wing area unless you can get it down under 6.5 ounces.

I'm right on that... The proto turned out a bit bigger than I had in my head, one of the problems with CAD. The next version will be scaled down a bit. I do want to stay right around 33" on the wingspan as anything bigger tends to get too big in the smaller indoor venues. Weight is something I'm thinking of as paramount too. The proto was 5 5/8oz. with no battery. I'd like to get it lower than that. One carbon spar at the MAC may be the way to go with the kevlar bracing. I'm even thinking no carbon for a realy lght setup.

Thanks for the kudos guys!

Aio_1 - PDF is all I'll post. I learned the hard way a long time ago, so no raw CAD formats. Sorry...

Revised V.3 drawings will be posted soon.

Tim H.

[Tim H.]

The kevlar bracing instructions were great! Very informative.

- David

Thanks!

Tim H.

[Aio_1]

...Aio_1 - PDF is all I'll post. I learned the hard way a long time ago, so no raw CAD formats. Sorry...
No problem Tim. Just thought I'd ask.
Out of curiosity what sort of problems did you have? I've posted CAD drawings once or twice so I'm wondering if there's something I should be aware of?

Thanks and keep it up,

Aidan

[Downwind 1]

Great Thread. Thanks for your contribution to this hobby. TIM;
My mini 3-DX weight is 6.8 oz with a 3 cell TP 730 pack and a Komodo 17 wind motor. Putting out 12 oz of thrust, What a great little plane. I did add the thrust system to the stabilizer only, To see how it would work. It flies great. No twisting; I’m started my second one for back a up. This time it will be lighter. Using just fishing line, and no ¾ balsa on the tail. I also downloaded your F 3 X, is there a big difference. I plan to start that one also.
Note; Trying to tie off the end you need 3 hands to keep it tight, So here what I came up with. With the needle on, I put thin CA on about a half inch of the thread. Because I wanted to cut it with out it fraying. Next I cut off the needle, And put the thread through a small piece of 1/16 aluminum tub. Now you can pull on the thread with one hand, and crimp it with needle nose pliers, with the other Hand. Then glue. Works great.
I wish, I could add pictures, But for some reason, I can only add them to thread that I started.
HAVE A GREAT DAY.

[mcflyboy]

here's one i knocked together, at 95% size to suit my slightly underpowered motor and tiny little carpark beside my house.

A few questions though,
1) is it safe enough to leave the LG off, I'll be throwing and catching anyway.

2) the top fuse is slightly bent(the depron arrived like that), will i be able to pull this straight with the kevlar bracing?

3) Tim, have you made any progress into V1.3?

Thanks,
mcflyboy

[Aio_1]

here's one i knocked together, at 95% size to suit my slightly underpowered motor and tiny little carpark beside my house.

A few questions though,
1) is it safe enough to leave the LG off, I'll be throwing and catching anyway.

2) the top fuse is slightly bent(the depron arrived like that), will i be able to pull this straight with the kevlar bracing?

3) Tim, have you made any progress into V1.3?

Thanks,
mcflyboy

Although the kevlar thread will allow you to straighten the plane any severe bend might only be corrected near the point where the bracing connects and leave the rest of the surface pulling back to the warped shape. The best thing to do might be to heat the depron slightly and try to remove the bend; then rely on the bracing to prevent new ones.

Tim,

I tested my own design last weekend which uses similar bracing to yours. I was very impressed with how effective it is - especially for providing torsional rigidity between the wing TE and the tail surfaces. Thanks for the information and inspiration. (It doesn't help much in a crash though!:D rigidity is the enemy when an airframe comes to a VERY sudden stop.)

Aidan

[Tim H.]

A few questions though,
1) is it safe enough to leave the LG off, I'll be throwing and catching anyway.

2) the top fuse is slightly bent(the depron arrived like that), will i be able to pull this straight with the kevlar bracing?

3) Tim, have you made any progress into V1.3?

Thanks,
mcflyboy

1. Leave them off, no problem. Just watch out for pavement...

2. Maybe, depends where the bend is. If it's not built yet, you can gently warm the depron and get the bend out.

3. I'm working on it as I type. F3X Evo - More fuse area, shorter tail moment. Much like the BlingBling V3, although still the same lines as the F3X/3DX series planes. I may have the drawings to post this weekend.

Tim H.

[Tim H.]

Here's a render of the new F3X-Evo. I'm going to try to get the prototype cut this weekend.

Tim H.

[Downwind 1]

Looking pretty good Tim; :) I glad to see you add more meat to the bottom. I liked your Mini 3-Dx so much, I’m building a second one.
Along with your F3P-Brio. However; I like to keep my planes in the 32 inch wingspan range. So I’ve reduced the Brio about 9 %. :rolleyes: I through the fuselage was a little long so I cut that back. And I only swept the wing ½ of what it called for. One question. on the carbon fiber. On the leading edge of wing how do you bend it around, or do you use two pieces ?
I fly most of my planes without landing gear. In the winter we fly in a dome that has Astroturf. And at the club over grass. So I don’t need wheels. Here is what I do. I double up on front of the fuselage with Drapron, 3mm sides and 6 mm botton.

[mcflyboy]

Cheers guys, went ahead with it and got it a good bit straighter, certainly a lot straighter than the last foamie I built. At this pic she's built, braced and ready for radio, so if I get my lazy ass off the comp she'll fly tomorrow

[mcflyboy]

One question. on the carbon fiber. On the leading edge of wing how do you bend it around, or do you use two pieces ?


I just glue one side first, make sure its well and truly stuck then bend it

[Tim H.]

On the leading edge of wing how do you bend it around, or do you use two pieces?

Just like Mcflyboy mentioned. Glue on one half span. Make sure it is dry, then bend on and glue the other side and hold it on with tape.

Tim H.

PS - I'm hoping to have the F3X Evo plans done enough to post tonight or tomorrow.

[Azarr]

Just like Mcflyboy mentioned. Glue on one half span. Make sure it is dry, then bend on and glue the other side and hold it on with tape.

Tim H.

PS - I'm hoping to have the F3X Evo plans done enough to post tonight or tomorrow.

Lately I've just been using the tape, slightly heavier, but the carbon is easily reusable.

Azarr
www.ecubedrc.com

[Downwind 1]

In the past I’ve got carbon rods from Air Dynamics. Their flat 3 mm by .025 This time I got it from BP there is 3 mm x .041 thick. This being heavier I added to the tailing edge only. I was thinking of using a .046 rod on the lead edge with tape just to protect it. It’s only a 32 in wing. I’m also using the truss system. I’m Shooting for under 6 oz.
What do you think ?

[Aio_1]

In the past I’ve got carbon rods from Air Dynamics. Their flat 3 mm by .025 This time I got it from BP there is 3 mm x .041 thick....
When you say 3mm by .025 do you mean .025thou of an inch? - Please tell me they don't produce raw materials in mixed units of measurements:eek: . I'd be terribly upset.

[Tim H.]

Preliminary PDF's of the F3X Evo for you guys. No notes or anything, justa parts templates. Sorry, no Metric pages yet...

Tim H.

[Tim H.]

When you say 3mm by .025 do you mean .025thou of an inch? - Please tell me they don't produce raw materials in mixed units of measurements:eek: . I'd be terribly upset.

Aio_1 I think he just mixed the measurements as a convienience. I can't remember 3mm in inches either. In the US, the carbon is often sold in thousandths of an inch measure and it's a pain. I wish it was in mm. But then again, the largest manufacturer in the US, Avia, uses "".

Oh well...:D

[Downwind 1]

Sorry about the confusion; BP sales theirs by mm 1 X 3 mm. It mikes out to . 046 x .117 thousands. And Air Dynanics sales theirs by the thousands. .020 X .120. Witch mikes out to .025 X .125. Their both a little off. I always use Air Dynanics before. because it was thinner and a little lighter. BP has a good selection and it was cheaper. I may have to order some flat from AD. How thick is the flat carbon you guy’s use ?

[mcflyboy]

well, it flies, only got a few mins out in the back, but was very impressed how big it felt. Thanks again Tim

[Tim H.]

A couple more renders with some of the aerodynamic devices.

Tim

[Downwind 1]

As always you came through; Nice, Clean, Simple. Do you plan to use the truss system on this one ? I under stand the side force generators. But what’s with the radar dish. I love your mini 3 Dx. And I’m making an other one just for a backup along with a Brio. I’ve also downloaded your F3 x evo from your last thread, I didn’t see side force generators on it. Should I disregard that one and just do this one? I’m retired so I’ll have plenty to keep me busy through the winter. Keep up the good work.
Have A Grate Day !

[mcflyboy]

thats called a canalizer, now widely used in F3A to reduce the nose high attitude required in slow knife edge

[Tim H.]

Thanks for the kudos! Yes, what Mcflyboy said. Here's some more info on that stuff Aerodynamic Devices (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589053)

I've been intrigued with some of the enhancements that have come about lately and decided to include some of them on this design. I'm going to try to get one built this week and then test each one to see the effectiveness on the flight attributes. They haven't been included on the plans yet as I just drew them last night, then started messing with the rendering. I'm just starting to get the 3D drawing stuff down, so I was having fun...

I'm also going to include the leading edge strips seen on the Manta. However, I'm going to do some testing with different congigurations and ideas I have for those. Some of which have not been done yet (to my knowledge).

This is realy going to be a "test bed" project so to speak.

As far as the Kevlar, I'll include the locations on the plans for the holes, but I think I'm going to try either carbon trussing, or depron strip at 45 degrees along the fuse.

Tim

[mcflyboy]

I dont think the 45deg depron is worth it Tim, I built the mini 3dx like that and the kevlar brace on this model is stiffer no questions. I had been comtemplating the SFBs on this plane(v1.2) but need a smaller prop before I burst my batt.

[Tim H.]

I like the kevlar too, but the problem is one "dork" and it's a pain to fix. It is by far the lightest solution though.

Tim

[Downwind 1]

Looking forward to your test results. :rolleyes: As soon as I finish the two planes I have started. I’m looking forward to building your F 3x evo. It usually takes me a couple weeks to do a plane. I’m a little slow, I have to plan everything I do, to get it to come out the way I want. Here are the two Planes I have to finish first. :)

[Tim H.]

I know what you mean, I've been slower than a slug lately... Great paint jobs! Gotta love the Mini 3DX. It's still one of my favorites.

Tim

[BigBreeze]

Well, I'll soon be starting to cut my Evo parts, but was wondering about carbon spars.

Is it better to use one flat spar on each of the leading and trailing edges of the wing? Or, for weight saving, will the wing be strong enough if I only use one flat spar at the MAC, embedded in the wing? Will the wing need re-inforcement anyway if I use one spar?

Thanks all....

Marc

[bergfalke4]

I think you need two spars, otherwise the wing will lack torsionally rigidity
If you don't want to use two spars some people put crossbracings made from 1mm carbon rods under the wing to reinforce it, instead of the flat carbon profiles. Check out the threads about the Bling Bling, they contain several pictures of these cross brace systems.

Don't forget that there are several dimensions of the flat carbon spars. I've seen examples ranging from 0.5mm up to 0.8mm thickness. Your choiche depends on the strength of the profiles you use.

[julianb]

Hi Tim,

here's my favourite, the Votec - this one is a Christmas present for a pal. Whaddya reckon?



Cheers


Julian

[Boss248]

What are you guys powering this plane with>>?
That is one sexy,looking plane Tim... ;)
Boss

[Boss248]

Julian...that is one off the better looking foamies have senn in a long. while.


Boss

[Downwind 1]

There are so many good motor out there to choose from.
I have 2 mini 3 - Dx This is the first one.
AUW 6.5 oz. Loading at 3.65 oz./ sq. ft.
Komodo Motor – KH 2204- 17 wind, 1210 kv.
TP 3 cell LiPo 730 at 13 c
Using a GWS 8.4 HD Prop. Getting 11.5 oz thrust at 5.5 amps
Servos; 2 HS 50 and 1 GWS pico for ailerons.
CC Thunder Bird 9

I plan on finishing the second one but make it lighter. Using Dymond 4.7 servos. With an Hextronik 1300 kv – With a 2 cell 460 mA pack and a GWS SF 9 X 4.7 or an GWS HD 9 X 5 I’ll get over 9 oz of thrust. At about 5 ½ amps
For those that fly without wheels. I’m adding some pictures.

[Downwind 1]

I stand corrected ; The 1/32 ply in the first picture is only .020 so it’s
much thinner then I through. I do use 1/32 on my bigger planes. With or with out the ply I always double up on the bottom front. Another thing you can try is thin flat carbon 120 X .022 . Buy heating it with a heat gun you can crease it with out it breaking. One more thing I’ve done, is I use foam tape. I coat the bottom first with thin glue first let it dry. I leave the backing on one side.

[Downwind 1]

[QUOTE=Tim H.]Just like Mcflyboy mentioned. Glue on one half span. Make sure it is dry, then bend on and glue the other side and hold it on with tape.

Tim H.

For the leading edge.
I discovered: :rolleyes: If I take my heat gun and heat the middle of the flat carbon. I can crease it back without it breaking. I used flat .120 X .022 for LE & TE
You can also do the same under the nose, for those ruff landing. :)

[LittleTimmy]

This looks really similiar to all the European designs that were out years ago. Wonder where this paralax came from.

[raymon]

I have changed F3X, it is see, however, on the foto`s.
I have flown last Saturday F3P-C fly nicely

http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums/userpics/10087/moonray%20met%20beker.jpg


:)

[Tim H.]

Wow Raymon, great job! Congrats! Any video?

Hey Timmy, good eye! Yup, all of my stuff is heavily infuenced by the European stuff, just like yours... They are light years ahead of us. Every foamy that is produced in the US is a direct result of what is or has happened in Europe. Martin rocks!

FYI guys, LittleTimmy is a trolling fan of mine. He loves to bash me publicly. he hides behind 2 day old screen names and posts in my threads. If we feed him, maybe he'll come back...:D

Tim H.

[raymon]

Thanx,
Maybe I make a movi 11 maart

he`s fly very slowly
i like it verry wel:)

[Aerorc51]

Tim,
Thanks for the design. This is my first attempt at building a precision foamy. Test flight was earlier tonight. Unfortuantely I had the plane too tail heavy. I'll move the battery forward and try again at TCA Saturday night.

I'm running a three cell 460, but thinking of switching to a two cell. The 3 cell is too much. :eek:

Doug

[raymon]

owja, he weighs 141 grammes with 2s 300Mah

[Downwind 1]

Looking pretty good; Better then my first one,

[Dimitry999]

Nice, nice, nice!!!!!!!
Thank you all!!! I found that plane, I always wanted.
THANKS!!!

[Downwind 1]

Spring is here! :)
I’ve been building all winter time to fly.
I Just finished this plane. I thought the fuselage was a little too big for my taste. So I made it only 92% of the original plan. The wings and stab are a 100%. I also left off the side force generators until I get to test fly it indoors to day.
F3p-EVO, AUW 4.97 oz / 141 gr.
Wing 32 in. cord 9 tip 5.5 loading 3.10 sq/ft.
Motor E Flite 250 with GWS 8 x 4.3 or HD 8 X4
2 pico servos ailerons / rudder, 1 D 4.7 rudder
Carbon truss under fuselage .018 carbon
Wing LE only .125 X .020 with .046 carbon supports. Landing gear .058.

[Aio_1]

That looks great. nicely finished!
The proportions look fine in those photos. Do you have one that gives a better idea of the ratios of span and length?
Should fly well at that weight.

I'm the opposite to you regards flying. The indoor season is over so I'm not doing much with my indoor designs at the moment and I'm flying/building slope soarers!

[Downwind 1]

This plane is from Tim H. plans. My last 3 planes are Tim’s, Great plans to work with. Even through I may change a lot to soot my needs. You can’t go wrong with his plans. Many Thanks To Tim.
Slope souring; Boy I miss that, I did that a couple years ago, until we lost our site. Lots of fun.

[GallopingGhost]

Spring is here! :)
I’ve been building all winter time to fly.
I Just finished this plane. I thought the fuselage was a little too big for my taste. So I made it only 92% of the original plan. The wings and stab are a 100%. I also left off the side force generators until I get to test fly it indoors to day.
F3p-EVO, AUW 4.97 oz / 141 gr.
Wing 32 in. cord 9 tip 5.5 loading 3.10 sq/ft.
Motor E Flite 250 with GWS 8 x 4.3 or HD 8 X4
2 pico servos ailerons / rudder, 1 D 4.7 rudder
Carbon truss under fuselage .018 carbon
Wing LE only .125 X .020 with .046 carbon supports. Landing gear .058.
How does that E-Flite 250 do? I have a 300 that I have a pretty low opinion of. Seems like I heard the 250 was the better motor.

[crossup]

I can verify that the Park 250 has no trouble with a 6oz plane on the 7x3.5DD prop..
I'm flying a 40" 180gram F3A(Ikarus) clone/bash -outdoors no less and een though the prop looks like a 'toon prop its so small, the Park 250 makes her 3D just fine
at 140 some grams the Park 250 would probably hover the F3X right to the end of the pak

[GallopingGhost]

I've had this in the works for a while and just got a Dualsky Xmotor 2812CA-27T Motor from 2Dogs. This was the right time to finish the plane since the motor needed a home. As luck would have it by the tine I had the radio installed a bad Thunderstorm popped up. I was pretty sure there wasn't going to be a test hop tonight. Well it got calm after dark but there was still a slight drizzle. Well whatth.... go for it. Only one flight but I am impressed with both the plane and the Dualsky motor! That little 20 gram motor makes some ummph. Not sure about the CG but it flew very slow and didn't seem to have a bad habit or dangerous traits even though it seemed to be about as aft a CG for a test flight as you would want. I hope to get several packs through it tomorrow night.

[flyin C]

cool looking fomie, nice design too.

kind of looks like the E-flite Sobre

And, I am looking for a fomie that uses a 2s 900mah battery, Hs-55 servos and hopefully a United Hobbies motor and esc to keep the cost low...

[Mchone, Jake]

I just built and flew this plane last night (and into this morning). I have to say great job, Tim! This was a very easy and enjoyable build and I used everything (all CF and electronics) from my Yak54 shockie that I demolished yesterday at the gym. This plane, even in 3mm cell foam, seems VERY strong and light. The elevator seems a little small compaired to the rest of the plane, but it can always be enlarged if needed.

This planelooks great and is my first pattern syle indoor 3D plane. I love the looks of it and cant wait for the wind to die down a little so that I can really try it out.

Last night on my test flight it was very touchy, and I measured the CG to be at 3" BFLE. This is apparently waytoo far back because any attempt for a harrior roll or high alpha KE would just lead strait into a hover! Useing teh mean chord the CG should be about 2" BFLE, is this where most of you guys fly it at?

Thanks!
-Jake

[Mchone, Jake]

Here is mine!

It flew great last night at the gym! VERY responcive, yet still smooth and will go anywhere you point it and stay there! Very awsome plane.

The plane: 3mm Midwest cell foam
Paint- Wal-Mart testors spray mini cans

My setup, 3 Futaba S3114 servos
4ch futaba mini Rx
stock rimfire / ESC swinging a 10x3.8 APC
All CF reinforcment, landing gear and pushrods from a Yak 54 shockie

Perfect setup! 3D like mad on E-flight 2 or 3 cell 800mAh!

There is one draw back to this plane is now ALL my flying buddies have to have one, and guess who get to build them :p

[Tim H.]

Glad to see you guys flying them! I need to get another one going... I just need to find the time!

Tim H.

[flyin C]

This looks like a really good foamie. Its the type of foamie I have been looking for.

I am going to use 2s 800mah lipos and Hs-55 servos. Has anyone here found a good United Hobbies brushless motor/esc combo that works well? Their products are good for the money, and it would help my budget out.

[Mchone, Jake]

If you build it light your 2s 800 will be great for it for indoor flight (or calm outdoor)

Use 3mm depron or cellfoam to save weight.

A 300 outrunner and 15amp ESC from anyone should work just fine.


I will be building a new one V1.4. The only difference will be a larger elevator and a slightly shorter (no more than .5") canopy and fuse above the wing so it isnt so floppy when building from single-ply 3mm.

[Lance]

Here's a couple of pics of me and my son flying Tim's excellent F3X Fusion....what a fantastic blend of pattern & 3D abilities! Thanks Tim.

[Mchone, Jake]

Great looking plane! Really nice color choices.

[ricapp]

Hi

Im thinking of building the F3X v1.2, I have printed the plans at 95% of the original size, is that a good idea ?

I will fly it indoor, and my setup will be:
2S 500ma lipo (around 30 grams)
21grams motor
7grams ESC
6grams Receiver
3 x 4grams servos

Wich is the better choice of those for this setup and to fly indoor:
The F3x v1.2 or the F3x EVO v1.3 ?

thanks for your comments !

[Mchone, Jake]

I can fly the 100% size V1.3 indoors in a small elementry school gym confortably and still do all the manuvers (well, all the manuvers im personaly able to do) with space to spare! I find myself trying to fly an open pattern so that I can use more of the gym!

With 3mm foam and your setup it should come out a couple oz. lighter than mine!
Plus, mine is big enough that I can still fly it outdoors ina breeze and not have to worry about it turning into an ornathopter :p :D

[Downwind 1]

It’s time to move back in side. Getting too darn cold out, I’ve been practicing F3p pattern flying all summer. No; you won’t see my at the ETOC, but I enjoy trying. Two of my favorite planes are from Tim’s plans. At least that's where I started. Each time I build one of these, I change something. I know, The plane in the picture says mini 3-Dx. But it’s been modified a lot. It fly’s pattern just fine indoors and out. Why else would I build 4 of these with one on the board for a backup. Love this plane !
In the winter I fly in a sports dome. It’s a little tight for pattern flying and the space is limited. But we have a blast. Grate bunch of guys. My lightest indoor pattern plane so far is a modified Evo. Tim’s of course. I’ve built two of these so far.
EVO AUW 4.6 oz / 130.5 gr.
Azarr Lite Antenna
Motor E Flite 250 with GWS EP 7 X 3.5
3 D 4.7 Servos./ Thunderbird 6 ESC

Have a Marry Christmas !

[Lance]

Really nice clean build, and fantastic paint scheme on that one in the middle. For a plane with basically just two colors on it, it just really pops.
What do you feel like you're getting from the little SFG tabs on the ailerons orange/black one? I need to experiment more myself with good ideas like those.

[Mchone, Jake]

I dont know if his are angled or not but mine were angled which added drag and helps keep down lines slower and also adds some stability in adding about 10 square inches of vertical area to it in normal flight and addds 10"sq. horizontal area in KE to help stop any coupling and such.

If they were bigger it would add sie area as well letting the pilot fly slower KE and higher alpha KE with out a loss of stability or the addition of power needed.

[ChrisBowker]

the right sized SFG's on a foamy can make them virtually neutral when rolling in knife edge requiring little or no rudder input, as a result they generally make rolling maneuvers much easier. as a side effect to much side area will limit how well the plane does snaps(not that foamys snap that well to start with)

Chris

[electricflyman]

hey tim i was wondering um i am atrting up a website and i would like to put this foamy on the site? and ofcoarse i will NOT take credit ill put the designers name on it and it will be free is that ok? please say back soon

[electricflyman]

hey tim could i use your airplane to put on my site? it will NOT be sold and i will NOT take any credit for it ill put the correct designers name on it so what do you say?

[morgantwin11]

Here's my F3X. I am using a blue wonder 1300 kv, 500 mah zippy & HXT 620 mah, fma 6 ch receiver, and a 12 amp esc. I used fanfold blucore which i sanded most of it down to about 3mm for the wing, and horizontal cross piece. I also added my own SFGs. In zero wind this thing is a harrier/hover machine. It locks in and the plane will knife edge almost on its own with nearly zero coupling. Its a very fun plane and hope to try it indoors soon. It came out at 9oz exactly ready to fly. The blue wonder on a 9 x 3 prop powers it beautifully with plent of pullout power.

[MasterShake]

Thank you TIM H. for the plans can't wait to start a build on it. Thank you.

Schuyler LaBrosse

[DRITCH]

Noticed around page 3 or so you drew up some SFG's and whatever that little top wing thingy is. I'm sure I'll need it.

If possible could you do a single page with them on it?

As for the top wing minnie me thingy what's it for again?

Any incidence to it or parallel with the wing?

Building one of these from FFF. Adding some wing about where the SFG's start to the tips maybe 2-2.5inches forward of the LE. Don't know what they're called but they look cool and help with rocking I believe.

Also might add a little to the TE (to lower wing loading) and maybe add some mid wing counterbalances on the ailerons (to help the heavy pig roll over). Could sand out some FFF to 3mm but i'm too lazy.

Just getting into the best part of 3d/pattern stuff myself. By best part I mean stopped hitting the ground so much. This looks like another great design.

Thanks

Dan

P.S. Still flying the bipe. Still my favorite 3d machine. Started flying the big (44-48in) extra. Hated it till I looked over the "tying" instructions again. Missed the part about glueing at each joint. Went back and Superglued everywhere and now it's as stiff as a board. Really cool flying a big plane so slow.

[DRITCH]

Got the airframe built.

Added 1in to the front of the wing.

Added 1in forward rake to the outer 1/4 ws.

Pics and video when I get a chance.

[DRITCH]

Showing the gear and what I modded to the wings.

[goldguy]

I likie, in the loop............

[DRITCH]

Knife edge loops? Finally can do 3 in a row. Learned they're like flat spins. THe more power the tighter they get.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4v7NmCJUdk

[DRITCH]

Cool?