Foam glues [Archive]

salisbug

Feb 08, 2006, 02:42 PM

I quite like the Super Gold odourless CA available through Modelflight.

www.modelflight.com.au

It's reasonably priced, thin as all get-out and doesn't seem to gum up in the bottle.

Also through MF you can get Ultrafly glue at just over $2 it a real bargain.

On the CA front again if I want a gap filler I use 3DFoamy CA from

www.3dfoamy.com

Glenn

steve wenban

Feb 08, 2006, 02:52 PM

Hi Glenn how was Camperdown
SteveW

ExtremeSkyes

Feb 08, 2006, 06:51 PM

I use a foam safe PVA glue ($8 a bottle I think) from Riots Arts & Craft. It dries in an hour, but if you're like me when you're building, there's plenty to do while the glue dries. I like it coz it's easy to use...no mixing, plenty of time to adjust what I'm gluing before it dries and if I get it on my hands, it comes off easy.

I don't know where you'd get these online, but I get them from the local shopping centre (Northland in my case).

Ex

osmium_192

Feb 08, 2006, 08:13 PM

Hi

I personally prefer to use CA for foam, and epoxy where more structural strength is needed for small contact area jobs like CF

I also use epoxy for areas that need quick setting, like for gluing eps fuse halves, in addition to CA for maintaining strength while keeping weight down.

Ive heard of people using the elmers glue, or polyurethane glue but i've never been too fond of the brown colour which totally ruins the nice clean white foam colour.

Owen

GWS CHEN

Feb 08, 2006, 10:02 PM

Hi friends

I would like to say that GWS glue, white glue and epoxy are better to use on foam models. Some people would have trouble
with GWS glue and epoxy, I would believe that white glue is
the most friendly one to everybody, it has been widely used on balsa models, it's certainly good to use with foam though it takes
more than 2 hours to dry, using hairdryer on it would be helpful. Alternatively applying GWS glue would be more convenient, apply it first on foam which need to be sticken, leave them off for 10 minutes, then press them together firmly.

Both Gws glue and white glue are cheaper, you could order them
from your hobby shop.

Eagleburger

Feb 09, 2006, 05:34 AM

I use UHU glue I got from bunnings on EPP most of the time. Cant remember what it it is called. Its light and strong, but does need to set overnight to become really strong. Cost $6 for 90ml. For instant gluing cant go past .

It very much like GWS glue. A bottle has last me 4 EPP 3D birds (with plenty of accidents :cool: ) and still have some left.

Try it you wont be sorry. It is all I use now when building with foam.

Flappers

Feb 09, 2006, 06:07 AM

I like to use Zap-a-Gap which you can buy in most UK hobby stores.

Firstly I like it because of the name, it's a pretty stupid thing but I always find myself singing the name as I'm driving to the shop to get some, I sing it so much that my mate even joins in now.

Secondly I like it because it was that brand of glue that taught me the importance of being careful.
I have a story which involves my finger, thumb, a tub of Zap-a-Gap, a craft knife and about 2 hours of agony. The story ended in blisters.

Zap-a-Gap has made me a very parnoid gluer :)

edit: Oh, and it's about £3ish.

Vise-squad

Feb 11, 2006, 05:18 AM

Hi
I'm new to this. As the manufacturer of VISE SUPERGRIP POLYURETHANE GLUE I have just received an email from a RC Aircraft Builder (WSMC) who says that he's just used my glue for gluing Dow Corning Foamular Metric PU foam sheet to pine and has had excellent results. He (or she) has asked me to market it to you guys and tells me "It's ideal for 'foamie' style aircraft". So here I am! And here it is. Australian-made and available in Bunnings in glue departments (right next to Selleys - but better price.)
Please give it a try and let me know your thoughts.
Take a sneak preview of features on up-coming website. www.modulus.com.au/vise/
:)

RussellK

Feb 11, 2006, 06:55 AM

That's good to see - the Sellys polyurethane (Urethane Grip I think it's called) seems to be available in only in a rather small tube, whereas the yanks have Gorilla Glue that's available in a range of sizes and is sold pretty much everywhere.

I'll have a look for yor stuff tomorrow at Bunningsland.

olmod

Feb 11, 2006, 07:20 AM

mmm selleys probond ?

olmod

Feb 11, 2006, 07:26 AM

One thing i would like to know is when these glues start to thicken in the bottle over time what can one use to thin it back down again ?

Eagleburger

Feb 11, 2006, 08:53 PM

The selleys urethane has solvent in it, making it unsuitable for foam work.

I will try the new vice stuff out soon. Thanks for the heads up.

Vise-squad

Feb 11, 2006, 11:53 PM

One thing i would like to know is when these glues start to thicken in the bottle over time what can one use to thin it back down again ?

Hi
Polyurethane glue (eg VISE) are moisture curing and therefore will set from the outside in if exposed to too much atmosphere. I :) t is important to keep the glue as airtight as possible. Ours has a snap-top two part lid that works well (we've been using it on solvent-based glues for six years now). But as soon as you've dispensed your glue, then snap the lid back on and the glue will remain good in the bottle for many many months.

Vise-squad

Feb 11, 2006, 11:57 PM

The selleys urethane has solvent in it, making it unsuitable for foam work.

I will try the new vice stuff out soon. Thanks for the heads up.

Hi Eagleburger
Thanks. VISE SUPERGRIP is 100% polyurethane - no solvents at all. I'm pretty sure you'll have no worries with it on your foam.
Best of luck.
Phil

RussellK

Feb 12, 2006, 06:09 PM

Well I dropped by the local Bunnings to check out this Vise glue - I found a few bottles on the shelf all with a distinct lean to them (see pic) they looked kind of funny, but I didn't give much thought to why they were like that...

Anyway, later in the day, I was laying some hardwood decking and had accidentally split a board - it occured to me that it'd be a ideal place to try out the new glue. Removing the cap, I noticed the end was sealed, so I laid the tip over against a piece of scrap timber and nipped the end off with a chisel - I immediately flipped the bottle up again to stop the glue running out.

The moment I flipped it vertical, there was a blast of glue from the nozzle that shot straight up into my eye :eek: Luckily I must have closed my eye just in time and got a gooed up eyelid instead. Now I understood why the bottles had the strange lean - they were under considerable pressure :)

My conclusion is that the glue must have been bottled in the Antarctic or somewhere with sub-zero temperatures, the temperature yesterday was ony about 27 degrees or so.

Anyway, the glue seems to have worked well enough, just make sure you don't make the same mistake I did, or perhaps try refrigerating the bottle before first opening :)

osmium_192

Feb 12, 2006, 10:21 PM

Hehe fat bottles. Thanks for the warning Russell. Have you tried the glue on and foams yet?. At least its good to hear that it isnt the glue your warning about, just the packing.

Im yet to be shown how good polyurethane glues are...

Owen

RussellK

Feb 13, 2006, 06:17 AM

The benefit of polyurethane is that it's very strong and it foams, which means it fills gaps well and is also lighter than a solid glue like epoxy. The downside versus epoxy is that the curing time is around a day. It's also a hard glue which can be too brittle in some applications where some flex would be good.

The key for foamie construction is not to apply too much as it will expand when it foams, and to remove any excess while it's still wet (this is debatable, sometimes it's easier to slice off the cured line of glue that's foamed out of the joint).

olmod

Feb 13, 2006, 07:23 AM

Hi
Polyurethane glue (eg VISE) are moisture curing and therefore will set from the outside in if exposed to too much atmosphere. I :) t is important to keep the glue as airtight as possible. Ours has a snap-top two part lid that works well (we've been using it on solvent-based glues for six years now). But as soon as you've dispensed your glue, then snap the lid back on and the glue will remain good in the bottle for many many months.

yep im pretty much aware of the moisture setting it off ,wich is why it will eventually thicken in the bottle over many months ,but in the mfg process how do you control the consistancy? one of my favourite uses is by adding about 10 to15% acrilic water based paint or sanding sealer mixing and applying with an old credit card to foam as a filler that is lightweight and sandable, a coulple of coats and you can paint anything you like over the top without dissolving the foam. tough and lightweight. ;) :)

Vise-squad

Feb 13, 2006, 05:46 PM

Silent flight

Feb 13, 2006, 05:47 PM

Try Goop, found in places like super(?) A-mart sport shops, thins out nicely with xylene, gorrilla glue, hard to get here, foams up a is messy, Av515 also foamy and messy but apperently very strong, never used those two, but plan to use the AV515 on the next model.

RussellK

Feb 13, 2006, 06:10 PM

Sorry Russell for the packaging problem. It's only a temporary issue as the bottles are now aspirated and the carbon dioxide is expelled before packaging.
If you send me address details I'll forward a replacement with our comps.
Anyway I'm delighted to learn that the PU worked well for you.
Regards
Phil

Hey, don't worry about it - I didn't lose much glue, in fact my eye convenienty caught the bulk of it which was enough to fix the split :)

RussellK

Feb 13, 2006, 06:31 PM

I haven't seen Goop anywhere in Australia - one thing that works very well for EPP foam is Shoe Goo which makes a very tough but flexible joint, however it's no good for EPS foam as it dissolves the foam.

Silent flight

Feb 14, 2006, 12:27 AM

Apprently shoe goo and goop are the same thing(so an american i asked said), been working fine on the EPP foam that I've been using, no melting there.(oops didn't notice you said eps)

steve wenban

Jul 26, 2006, 06:30 PM

just wanted to clear up the selley's statements the selley Aquadhere with PU technology is perfectly safe for foam and give and excellent bond .
SteveW

FRAMEDNLVS

Jul 26, 2006, 06:56 PM

gone fishing

kkw

Jul 26, 2006, 07:18 PM

I have stock of Gorilla Glue if anyone needs it. I think the Selleys product is similar, but not the same. Probably does the same thing though.

Curare

Jul 26, 2006, 09:15 PM

UHU creativ for styrofoam is BRILLIANT! Just make sure when you go to bunnings that you find the aqua coloured styrofoam tube.

beats CA any day.

And that E flite glue is crud, i'd never use it again.

Extreme_RC

Aug 12, 2006, 11:09 AM

This is a report back to Vise Squad, I had bought a bottle of vise glue before it was mentioned on thie thread, just got around to using it earlier this week. Well I can tell you your locking cap system isnt so great, the top half inch of the bottle was solid as a rock. I managed to rotate the solid disc around enough to use the glue and try it out, its very thick.

I used it to start building the F9F Panther, and it works very well on foam, the joint appears very strong, it fills the gaps, and is easy to slice off clean with a new blade. I used it to gusset inside a couple of the foam joints, works very well as it foams up a bit as it cures.

Pity the bottle was curing itself, I bought it at bunnings, will have to look for the receipt and take it back, I have only used about 2ml of it so far! :)

RussellK

Aug 12, 2006, 07:38 PM

That sounds like a bit of a dog. Interestingly, I've been using the same bottle on and off since my earlier posting and have been pleasantly surprised at how it hasn't cured in the bottle. I used to use Sellys Urethane Grip but you'd be lucky to get one use out of a tube before it'd go hard as a rock.

What size container was it?

Extreme_RC

Aug 12, 2006, 08:09 PM

The smallest one Russ, about 250ml? I think, its down in the dungeon, couldnt be bothered to go n look :D

I will find the reciept and take it in next time I am at bunnings, were your bottles sealed at the top or just the red screw on nozzle and red push on cap?

Mark.

RussellK

Aug 12, 2006, 08:18 PM

Mine is the bigger size. From memory it just had the red nozzle and cap - I posted a tale earlier in this thread about nipping the tip off the nozzle with a chisel and getting a blast of glue in my eye...

GlennS

Aug 12, 2006, 11:12 PM

I have used about 1/3 of a 250ml bottle of vise and also have been suprised that it hasnt cured in the bottle. So far so good. It makes nice bonds to cellfoam and fills small gaps well.
Cheers,
Glenn.

GOK

Aug 13, 2006, 05:05 AM

I have been using the ultrafly foamsafe glue from modelflight recently, and am quite happy with it. It is a cement kind glue so cures quite fast (10-20 minutes), it is light, clear, sandable, and flexible. It definately isn't as strong as epoxy but for minor repairs works fine.

I also received a foam safe cenet kind glue from a frien who apparently got it from Clark Rubber in Canberra for very cheap. I don't have the brand name or anything on this glue but it is currently my favorite.

GOK

RussellK

Aug 13, 2006, 05:20 AM

I got a bottle of the Ultrafly stuff from the shop in Phillip, and as far as I can tell, it's pretty much the same as GWS glue - you have to do the routine of mating the parts, then separating them for 5-10 minutes before bringing them together again. This way the glue sets fairly fast. If you just glue and squish, I found both the Ultrafly and GWS take hours to fully cure (due to lack of air I guess?).

GOK

Aug 13, 2006, 05:36 AM

Yes Russel,

I also did notice that the Ultrafly stuff is pretty much the same as the GWS glue just different packaging. To be honest, I like them both, they work just fine for my applications when used as you describe.

The other stuff from Clark Rubber is much stronger than the ultrafly and GWS. It has a yellowish colour to it and works more or less the same way as the previous two. I got it in an old jam jar from a friend so don't know what its called.

GOK

RussellK

Aug 13, 2006, 05:46 AM

That sounds like their contact adhesive - I used the stuff many, many years ago to attatch vinyl covering to speaker bins.

Cas123

Aug 14, 2006, 01:48 AM

The only problem I've had with Vise foaming glue is that it tends to form a skin fairly quickly. If you are doing a large area or using it to foam fill a cavity by adding a fair bit of moisture, make sure you spread it evenly to the walls around where its required to adhere otherwise you may find it may not adhere properlyall the way along but just fills the void. Apart from that, Ive found it works very well, and being a very pale color is much better cosmeticly than those I've used in the past.

Ron...

GlennS

Aug 15, 2006, 05:44 AM

Has anyone had experience with UHU Twist and Glue with cellfoam 88 or Depron?
(from Bunnings)

Cas123

Aug 15, 2006, 08:31 AM

I tried the UHU foam glue and was rather dissapointed. But then, after being use to the power of Urethane foaming glue most other glues are dissappointing.

Ron...

Griffo

Feb 01, 2007, 12:05 AM

Sorry to drag up an old thread. I went down to the local Bunnings and got myself some Vise PU glue. It's great if you're not after a fast cure time and the bond is brilliant.

The only problem I have with it was that it exploded all over the workbench when I opened it. I even heeded the warnings posted earlier about this problem and despite my best efforts it still went everywhere :(. So here's another warning for anyone thinking of using this glue. Open veeeery carefully!

Cas123

Feb 01, 2007, 12:51 AM

Must have a pretty good seal. Would have had to be a fairly hot day when you opened it.

It is rather messy when it gets onto anywhere you'd rather it didn't.

Best way I've found to get it off my fingers is with Solvol sand soap. The bar soap
not the liquid type

Ron...

Griffo

Feb 01, 2007, 01:41 AM

Cheers Ron, I'll remember that next time. I was scraping it off my hands for days :d.
The bench is well and truely stained. It's not easy to clean up.

olmod

Feb 01, 2007, 02:01 AM

some back bought some inkjet refill bottles that have a 50mm long needle with a rubber cap,i washed one out and thoroughly dried it with some hot air ,i then pulled the needle out ,drilled the cap bigger and tight fitted a piece of brass tube ex the k&h stand at lhs its about 2mm id ,i also drill the rubber cap,this bottle has a concertina top half and it is really worth having as it allows you to get small amounts into hard to get at places and i use it like a hyperdermic and when finished i squeeze the exess air out and put the cap on, now if the man from Vice packaged his product like that he would be on a winner imho.

MartinL

Feb 01, 2007, 02:44 AM

Shoe goo from a $2 shop works good on EPP

GlennS

Feb 01, 2007, 04:39 AM

Griffo,
I bought a bottle of Vise ages ago which has been used on a few models. I opened it a couple of weeks ago and splat, froth, it went all over the place. It was a hot day. Something I will be careful of again.
Was really cursing, as although its great stuff, I really hate getting it on my hands.
Cheers,
Glenn.

Smokin' Beaver

Feb 01, 2007, 05:53 AM

Well I'm going to put in a plug for Vise glue.
I can only say great things about it, I have tried lots of other glues but when you understand how this gear works (and you are happy to have a 24hr cure time) nothing beats it.
The trick, I found is to run a length of masking tape over the joint on the outside straight after you've joined it, the glue then will only expand inwards. You don't need to sand it, the tape actually melds the glue to the correct shape of the two faces.
See that Me262 in the Avatar? this was my first kit where I used Vise and tape technique and I only ran a 400 grit over the whole airframe before painting.
See my blog for a link to the build with close-up pics.
But I hasten to add, it's for jobs you want a good finish on - not for quick fixes.
It also does a brilliant job on repairs - it fills the gaps well which gives 100% connection between faces.

Phil

pezzer2003

Feb 01, 2007, 06:50 AM

I have tried everything and the best I have found for depron foam is UHU Twist and glue, and Shelleys Aquadhere Durabond (Polyuretane Glue).
They are both easy to get from my local Bunnings store and cheap :D .

My rule of thumb is I use the UHU for joints that do not require sanding and the Shellys for anything that does require a sand and it foams up like Vise does. BUT in half that time. And I’ve been using the same technique as Phil for some time now and it work a treat and the less sanding the easer it is for me :) .

I have used shoe glue and even liquid nails and I have found with time these glues become brittle and crack easily :mad: .

I also use Zap on the field for quick fixes, but I always do a proper repair at home with the better glues.

PEZ

pezzer2003

Feb 13, 2007, 06:35 AM

Here are some pic's of what i use.

me_wantee

Feb 13, 2007, 06:44 AM

I use UHU Creativ and Hot melt.
Both are fast, light and very strong.
Hot melt is good for anything that needs to be positioned, you can even 'weld' foam with a bit of practice.
UHU is great for fixes and is slightly more sandable.
They are both excellent on Depron and EPP.

Twigga

Feb 18, 2007, 09:58 PM

whats wrong with 3m super 77?

i just built an epp zagi and instructions said use super 77 for whole model. so i did and it seemed to work great.

that said its the first model i ever built so im not exactly an expert on the subject...

model even flies well (especially when im not at the controls but working on rectifying that! :)

jirvin_4505

Apr 15, 2007, 07:32 PM

I use UHU Creativ ..snip...
\ excellent on Depron and EPP.

me_wantee..Thanks for the suggestion of Creativ as alternative to Sumo in my other post.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=671724
Is this similar/same as Uhu "twist&glue"

I went up to Bunnings and obtained some of the "twist & glue" mentioned in this thread seems similar to GWS glue?.

I already use the Vise polyurethane but don't like the mess and short shelf life here in Qld. Anybody found the Sumo glue from loctite here in Australia?
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=534295

Was looking for a foaming type glue for my less than perfect depron joints
cheers Jeff