REQ: Soldering motor tips.

[NeXuS]

I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the angled
brushes.)

Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is
the best way to do it?

Paggle

--
Take note of the face, vacant, yet with a hint of sadness.
Like a drunk that's lost a bet.

[Chris Dugan]

"NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote in message
news:dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the angled
> brushes.)
>
> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is
> the best way to do it?
>

Use a soldering iron with a big chunky bit rated at least 50w and let it get
up to temperature fully first. In the UK the ones to get used to be the Wasp
iron, nowadays I believe there is one from the Trickbits range, I can't find
a picture at the moment to show you but I'll look a bit longer.

Chris

[NeXuS]

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ksnjf.2349$Y7.1570@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote in message
> news:dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the
>> angled
>> brushes.)
>>
>> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is
>> the best way to do it?
>>
>
> Use a soldering iron with a big chunky bit rated at least 50w and let it
> get
> up to temperature fully first. In the UK the ones to get used to be the
> Wasp
> iron, nowadays I believe there is one from the Trickbits range, I can't
> find
> a picture at the moment to show you but I'll look a bit longer.
>
> Chris
>
>
Thing is, it's the one with the alum bell end. I'm a bit scared of
buggering it up applying so much heat for such a long time.

Would flux be of any help?

Another thing, Going by what I'm doing, the bell end would get as hot as the
tabs if the solder was to take.

Pagey

[NeXuS]

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ksnjf.2349$Y7.1570@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote in message
> news:dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the
>> angled
>> brushes.)
>>
>> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is
>> the best way to do it?
>>
>
> Use a soldering iron with a big chunky bit rated at least 50w and let it
> get
> up to temperature fully first. In the UK the ones to get used to be the
> Wasp
> iron, nowadays I believe there is one from the Trickbits range, I can't
> find
> a picture at the moment to show you but I'll look a bit longer.
>
> Chris
>
>
Oyo Very!!

Stupid F**CKER that I am!!

Didn't realise until just now that I was using a F**CKING 15W iron!

Someone F**CKING kill me!!

Pagey, (now rather disgruntled.)

[\Doc\]

"NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote in message
news:dml0nf$p3f$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
>
> "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:ksnjf.2349$Y7.1570@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote in message
>> news:dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>>> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the
>>> angled
>>> brushes.)
>>>
>>> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What
>>> is
>>> the best way to do it?
>>>
>>
>> Use a soldering iron with a big chunky bit rated at least 50w and let it
>> get
>> up to temperature fully first. In the UK the ones to get used to be the
>> Wasp
>> iron, nowadays I believe there is one from the Trickbits range, I can't
>> find
>> a picture at the moment to show you but I'll look a bit longer.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
> Oyo Very!!
>
> Stupid F**CKER that I am!!
>
> Didn't realise until just now that I was using a F**CKING 15W iron!
>
> Someone F**CKING kill me!!
>
> Pagey, (now rather disgruntled.)

BANG!!!!! <you're dead> ;-) Kinda the way I feel after fighting with
getting my nitro engine started with a DEAD glow ignitor!

Doc

[NeXuS]

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ksnjf.2349$Y7.1570@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote in message
> news:dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the
>> angled
>> brushes.)
>>
>> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is
>> the best way to do it?
>>
>
> Use a soldering iron with a big chunky bit rated at least 50w and let it
> get
> up to temperature fully first. In the UK the ones to get used to be the
> Wasp
> iron, nowadays I believe there is one from the Trickbits range, I can't
> find
> a picture at the moment to show you but I'll look a bit longer.
>
> Chris
>
>
Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use for
a motor, (without destroying it?)

Paggle

[NeXuS]

""Doc"" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
news:yIadnfhrjNIElBPeRVn-pA@adelphia.com...
>
> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote in message
> news:dml0nf$p3f$1@news6.svr.pol.co.uk...
>>
>> "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
>> news:ksnjf.2349$Y7.1570@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>>> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote in message
>>> news:dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>>>> I've got a Team Orion Element 19 turn spec motor, (the one with the
>>>> angled
>>>> brushes.)
>>>>
>>>> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What
>>>> is
>>>> the best way to do it?
>>>>
>>>
>>> Use a soldering iron with a big chunky bit rated at least 50w and let it
>>> get
>>> up to temperature fully first. In the UK the ones to get used to be the
>>> Wasp
>>> iron, nowadays I believe there is one from the Trickbits range, I can't
>>> find
>>> a picture at the moment to show you but I'll look a bit longer.
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>>
>> Oyo Very!!
>>
>> Stupid F**CKER that I am!!
>>
>> Didn't realise until just now that I was using a F**CKING 15W iron!
>>
>> Someone F**CKING kill me!!
>>
>> Pagey, (now rather disgruntled.)
>
> BANG!!!!! <you're dead> ;-) Kinda the way I feel after fighting with
> getting my nitro engine started with a DEAD glow ignitor!
>
> Doc
>
I wondered I have having problems braiding the heavy gauge wire. 80.

Must be one of those days.

Paggle

[kenji]

In article <dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk>,
"NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote:

> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is
> the best way to do it?

on mine, I use a 40watt iron. I take an exacto blade and put a bunch of
scores into the metal tabs and I dab a little bit of flux onto the
scores, I heat the tab quickly, touch my solder to the tab and it leaves
a nice amount of solder there.

[Chris Dugan]

> Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use
for
> a motor, (without destroying it?)
>
> Paggle
>
>

You can use anyhting within reason, just hold the iron on the job for longer
for a lower wattage irion and less time for a higher wattage iron.

When I used to work in an R/C car shop we had a Weller 75W iron for building
cells <VBG>: stand the cells up after cleaning the contacts, plug in the
iron. go and boil the kettle to make a cup of tea/coffee and the iron would
be at the correct temp when you got back, then just clean the tip and about
a 1 second touch on each cell end with the iron and solder would tin it
ready for building the pack. Soldering motor wires is a similar speed about
1.5 to 2 secs when the tabs and wires are already tinned.

I must admit even my 50W iron does struggle with these V2 based motors as
the endbell is such a good heatsink; I let the iron heat up fully and use it
to preheat the brush holder for a few seconds before introducing the wire
and solder then about a 15 second or more break to build the heat back up in
the tip before doing the second connection.

Solder guns just won't work as they don't have the thermal 'mass' i.e. the
store of heat to warm up joints of that size properly and guarantee a good
joint, you may get the wire attached but give it a good tug and I'd put
money on it detaching, that's always a good test for any motor or cell
connection.

Chris

[Chris Dugan]

> Oyo Very!!
>
> Stupid F**CKER that I am!!
>
> Didn't realise until just now that I was using a F**CKING 15W iron!
>
> Someone F**CKING kill me!!
>
> Pagey, (now rather disgruntled.)
>
>
DOH!!!!
I bet the bit was a small 3.2mm electronics one as well! the one on my 50W
is 10mm dia at the heater end going to about 8mm at the business end.

Chris ;-)

[Richard]

"kenji" <kenji@ripco.com> wrote in message
news:kenji-BFA5CD.15173630112005@news.ftupet.com...
> In article <dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk>,
> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote:
>
> > Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What
is
> > the best way to do it?
>
> on mine, I use a 40watt iron. I take an exacto blade and put a bunch of
> scores into the metal tabs and I dab a little bit of flux onto the
> scores, I heat the tab quickly, touch my solder to the tab and it leaves
> a nice amount of solder there.

That is one of the better ways to solder, specially on a gold plated surface
because most of the gold plating done these days is done over a nickel
surface. This gives companies a cheap gold plating alternative but gold has
been known to flake off of nickel plated items that are exposed to high
temperatures.

One of the best tips for soldering is a good clean tip on your soldering
iron. Cleaned with either a damp sponge or using a desoldering wick or
braid or a copper wire brush. I also try to tap my soldering tip into a
little drip tray that is on my soldering station to get any little drips of
solder hanging off the tip before wiping it with the sponge. Liquid flux
is always handy to have in your soldering kit as it is used as a cleaning
agent to get rid of any oxidation on the material that your about to solder
to.

If you are soldering on a motor with a adjustable end bell, it is sometimes
best to remove the end bell which will help stop the heat dissipation into
the can or hold the end bell just below the tab where you are soldering with
a pair of needle nose pliers so that the heat moves into the pliers before
the rest of the motor.


Cheers
Richard

[NeXuS]

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:DYpjf.7430$Cj5.3109@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> Oyo Very!!
>>
>> Stupid F**CKER that I am!!
>>
>> Didn't realise until just now that I was using a F**CKING 15W iron!
>>
>> Someone F**CKING kill me!!
>>
>> Pagey, (now rather disgruntled.)
>>
>>
> DOH!!!!
> I bet the bit was a small 3.2mm electronics one as well! the one on my 50W
> is 10mm dia at the heater end going to about 8mm at the business end.
>
> Chris ;-)
>
>
The tip I was using was a flat tip about 5mm wide, (I thought it would do
the trick at the time.)

D'oh! indeed.

Paggle

[NeXuS]

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:RWpjf.7429$Cj5.4635@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use
> for
>> a motor, (without destroying it?)
>>
>> Paggle
>>
>>
>
> You can use anyhting within reason, just hold the iron on the job for
> longer
> for a lower wattage irion and less time for a higher wattage iron.
>
> When I used to work in an R/C car shop we had a Weller 75W iron for
> building
> cells <VBG>: stand the cells up after cleaning the contacts, plug in the
> iron. go and boil the kettle to make a cup of tea/coffee and the iron
> would
> be at the correct temp when you got back, then just clean the tip and
> about
> a 1 second touch on each cell end with the iron and solder would tin it
> ready for building the pack. Soldering motor wires is a similar speed
> about
> 1.5 to 2 secs when the tabs and wires are already tinned.
>
> I must admit even my 50W iron does struggle with these V2 based motors as
> the endbell is such a good heatsink; I let the iron heat up fully and use
> it
> to preheat the brush holder for a few seconds before introducing the wire
> and solder then about a 15 second or more break to build the heat back up
> in
> the tip before doing the second connection.
>
> Solder guns just won't work as they don't have the thermal 'mass' i.e. the
> store of heat to warm up joints of that size properly and guarantee a good
> joint, you may get the wire attached but give it a good tug and I'd put
> money on it detaching, that's always a good test for any motor or cell
> connection.
>
> Chris
>
>
Good advice, ta.

My dad used to swear by Weller. I noticed that they've produced a 80W
version to replace the old 75W iron.

I was kinda hoping to pre-tin the connection, (just to make life a bit
easier for myself, for when it's eventually installed into my car.)

Paggle

[NeXuS]

"kenji" <kenji@ripco.com> wrote in message
news:kenji-BFA5CD.15173630112005@news.ftupet.com...
> In article <dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk>,
> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote:
>
>> Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What is
>> the best way to do it?
>
> on mine, I use a 40watt iron. I take an exacto blade and put a bunch of
> scores into the metal tabs and I dab a little bit of flux onto the
> scores, I heat the tab quickly, touch my solder to the tab and it leaves
> a nice amount of solder there.

Cheers for that.

I have to traipse around town now to find a decent soldering iron.

Paggle

[NeXuS]

"Richard" <DK@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:438eab61$1@quokka.wn.com.au...
>
> "kenji" <kenji@ripco.com> wrote in message
> news:kenji-BFA5CD.15173630112005@news.ftupet.com...
>> In article <dmkpva$59f$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk>,
>> "NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote:
>>
>> > Problem is this: I cannot get the solder to adhere to the tabs. What
> is
>> > the best way to do it?
>>
>> on mine, I use a 40watt iron. I take an exacto blade and put a bunch of
>> scores into the metal tabs and I dab a little bit of flux onto the
>> scores, I heat the tab quickly, touch my solder to the tab and it leaves
>> a nice amount of solder there.
>
> That is one of the better ways to solder, specially on a gold plated
> surface
> because most of the gold plating done these days is done over a nickel
> surface. This gives companies a cheap gold plating alternative but gold
> has
> been known to flake off of nickel plated items that are exposed to high
> temperatures.
>
> One of the best tips for soldering is a good clean tip on your soldering
> iron. Cleaned with either a damp sponge or using a desoldering wick or
> braid or a copper wire brush. I also try to tap my soldering tip into a
> little drip tray that is on my soldering station to get any little drips
> of
> solder hanging off the tip before wiping it with the sponge. Liquid flux
> is always handy to have in your soldering kit as it is used as a cleaning
> agent to get rid of any oxidation on the material that your about to
> solder
> to.
>
> If you are soldering on a motor with a adjustable end bell, it is
> sometimes
> best to remove the end bell which will help stop the heat dissipation into
> the can or hold the end bell just below the tab where you are soldering
> with
> a pair of needle nose pliers so that the heat moves into the pliers before
> the rest of the motor.
>
>
> Cheers
> Richard
>
>
Now I can remember my dad using flux to solder copper pipes together, (well
he was a plumber.) ;)

Paggle

[NeXuS]

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:RWpjf.7429$Cj5.4635@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
>> Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use
> for
>> a motor, (without destroying it?)
>>
>> Paggle
>>
>>
>
> You can use anyhting within reason, just hold the iron on the job for
> longer
> for a lower wattage irion and less time for a higher wattage iron.
>
> When I used to work in an R/C car shop we had a Weller 75W iron for
> building
> cells <VBG>: stand the cells up after cleaning the contacts, plug in the
> iron. go and boil the kettle to make a cup of tea/coffee and the iron
> would
> be at the correct temp when you got back, then just clean the tip and
> about
> a 1 second touch on each cell end with the iron and solder would tin it
> ready for building the pack. Soldering motor wires is a similar speed
> about
> 1.5 to 2 secs when the tabs and wires are already tinned.
>
> I must admit even my 50W iron does struggle with these V2 based motors as
> the endbell is such a good heatsink; I let the iron heat up fully and use
> it
> to preheat the brush holder for a few seconds before introducing the wire
> and solder then about a 15 second or more break to build the heat back up
> in
> the tip before doing the second connection.
>
> Solder guns just won't work as they don't have the thermal 'mass' i.e. the
> store of heat to warm up joints of that size properly and guarantee a good
> joint, you may get the wire attached but give it a good tug and I'd put
> money on it detaching, that's always a good test for any motor or cell
> connection.
>
> Chris
>
>
What soldering iron would you suggest I get, and more importantly where
from?

TIA

Paggle

[kenji]

In article <dmn7p5$tov$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk>,
"NeXuS" <Diablo@hell.org> wrote:

> "Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:RWpjf.7429$Cj5.4635@newsfe6-win.ntli.net...
> >> Just out of curiosity, what would be the safest max wattage iron to use
> > for
> >> a motor, (without destroying it?)
> >>
> >> Paggle
> >>
> >>
> >
> > You can use anyhting within reason, just hold the iron on the job for
> > longer
> > for a lower wattage irion and less time for a higher wattage iron.
> >
> > When I used to work in an R/C car shop we had a Weller 75W iron for
> > building
> > cells <VBG>: stand the cells up after cleaning the contacts, plug in the
> > iron. go and boil the kettle to make a cup of tea/coffee and the iron
> > would
> > be at the correct temp when you got back, then just clean the tip and
> > about
> > a 1 second touch on each cell end with the iron and solder would tin it
> > ready for building the pack. Soldering motor wires is a similar speed
> > about
> > 1.5 to 2 secs when the tabs and wires are already tinned.
> >
> > I must admit even my 50W iron does struggle with these V2 based motors as
> > the endbell is such a good heatsink; I let the iron heat up fully and use
> > it
> > to preheat the brush holder for a few seconds before introducing the wire
> > and solder then about a 15 second or more break to build the heat back up
> > in
> > the tip before doing the second connection.
> >
> > Solder guns just won't work as they don't have the thermal 'mass' i.e. the
> > store of heat to warm up joints of that size properly and guarantee a good
> > joint, you may get the wire attached but give it a good tug and I'd put
> > money on it detaching, that's always a good test for any motor or cell
> > connection.
> >
> > Chris
> >
> >
> What soldering iron would you suggest I get, and more importantly where
> from?
>
> TIA
>
> Paggle

the Weller 40watt with the thick tip.

Here in the US it's about 17 bucks. I got mine at Home Depot.

I've had about 8 others in the past four years and nothing is as good as
this one so far. I'd like to have a soldering station but this Weller
has been just fine.

[Chris Dugan]

> What soldering iron would you suggest I get, and more importantly where
> from?
>
> TIA
>
> Paggle
>
>
Sorry mate, been away from pc's (funny that, as fixing the things is my
job!).

Right, well if you can guarantee mains whenever you're likeley to use the
iron then go for a Weller with a big chunky bit on it, that 75W one your dad
had sounds perfect. Just get a new tip on it if he'll let you keep it.
Failing that anything from Weller that's in excess of 40W will do both cells
and motor connections just get two different sized tips.. one big one for
cells and motor connections, one smaller for soldering wires to battery
connectors and to speedo PCB's (e.g. LRP Quantum).

If you need portability then Apex models sell both the Trickbits iron and
their own branded one, theirs appears to be a copy of theWasp iron that I
have. I know both use the same tips so any CML stockist can supply the
Trickbits tips for you. Don't bother with gas powered ones they tend to have
the same problem as soldering guns as there is very little thermal mass to
heat up (why do you think they are sold as quick heat!) unless you like
leaving the iron to build up a big head of 'steam' and the hold it on the
joint burning your fingers whilst waiting for the solder to melt and then
hopeing the joint is a good one.

If you can afford it the the best option is a temperature controlled iron,
again you'll need one about 50W and at least two different sized tips (or
learn to be careful using the corner of the large chisel tip) but they will
heat up faster, maintain a good heat in the tip and compensate a little for
you sticking them onto a stone cold brush holder!

Weller can be got from RS and Farnell, you can order from either online, the
trickbits iron can be got from any CML stockist and the Apex own iron can
only be got from Apex themselves (www.apexmodels.co.uk). Try
http://rswww.com and search for soldering irons. Have a look at the
Magnastat irons and if you do order one make sure you get a 230V and not a
120v iron! On Farnells website (http://uk.farnell.com) they have the Antex
range as well which seems to have a greater selection than RS do still
nothing more than a 30W 12v iron with a small tip though so stick with
Apex/Trickbits for the 12v iron if you go that way.

Chris

[NeXuS]

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:aE0kf.22535$pc1.4653@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
>> What soldering iron would you suggest I get, and more importantly where
>> from?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Paggle
>>
>>
> Sorry mate, been away from pc's (funny that, as fixing the things is my
> job!).
>
> Right, well if you can guarantee mains whenever you're likeley to use the
> iron then go for a Weller with a big chunky bit on it, that 75W one your
> dad
> had sounds perfect. Just get a new tip on it if he'll let you keep it.
> Failing that anything from Weller that's in excess of 40W will do both
> cells
> and motor connections just get two different sized tips.. one big one for
> cells and motor connections, one smaller for soldering wires to battery
> connectors and to speedo PCB's (e.g. LRP Quantum).
>
> If you need portability then Apex models sell both the Trickbits iron and
> their own branded one, theirs appears to be a copy of theWasp iron that I
> have. I know both use the same tips so any CML stockist can supply the
> Trickbits tips for you. Don't bother with gas powered ones they tend to
> have
> the same problem as soldering guns as there is very little thermal mass to
> heat up (why do you think they are sold as quick heat!) unless you like
> leaving the iron to build up a big head of 'steam' and the hold it on the
> joint burning your fingers whilst waiting for the solder to melt and then
> hopeing the joint is a good one.
>
> If you can afford it the the best option is a temperature controlled iron,
> again you'll need one about 50W and at least two different sized tips (or
> learn to be careful using the corner of the large chisel tip) but they
> will
> heat up faster, maintain a good heat in the tip and compensate a little
> for
> you sticking them onto a stone cold brush holder!
>
> Weller can be got from RS and Farnell, you can order from either online,
> the
> trickbits iron can be got from any CML stockist and the Apex own iron can
> only be got from Apex themselves (www.apexmodels.co.uk). Try
> http://rswww.com and search for soldering irons. Have a look at the
> Magnastat irons and if you do order one make sure you get a 230V and not a
> 120v iron! On Farnells website (http://uk.farnell.com) they have the Antex
> range as well which seems to have a greater selection than RS do still
> nothing more than a 30W 12v iron with a small tip though so stick with
> Apex/Trickbits for the 12v iron if you go that way.
>
> Chris
>
>
That information is perfect. I did find an 80W Weller. BUT, the chisel tip
was bloody massive, (about 1cm wide I'd say that the tip was roughly at a 90
degree angle. The whole shaft is about 1 cm wide too! :0.

I suppose I could use that one for the more demanding tasks and the crappy
12W one for the finer stuff?

Ta again

Paggle

[Chris Dugan]

> That information is perfect. I did find an 80W Weller. BUT, the chisel
tip
> was bloody massive, (about 1cm wide I'd say that the tip was roughly at a
90
> degree angle. The whole shaft is about 1 cm wide too! :0.
>
> I suppose I could use that one for the more demanding tasks and the crappy
> 12W one for the finer stuff?
>
> Ta again
>
> Paggle
>
>
Good choice on the Weller :0) Keep that one for cells and motor connections,
get another tip then file it down to a smaller point and use that for the
motor connections if space is tight.

If you already have a 12v iron you might as well keep on using it for the
light duty tasks such as battery connector to lead joints, speedo
connections and for replacing broken RX wires ;-) provided it has a small
enough tip. No more than 3.2mm for replacing RX wires or soldering any servo
wire, it is too difficult to control where the heat gets to and you can
overheat things far too easily.

Chris

[NeXuS]

> Good choice on the Weller :0) Keep that one for cells and motor
> connections,
> get another tip then file it down to a smaller point and use that for the
> motor connections if space is tight.
>
I haven't got it yet, but going by your reccomendation, I will. Ta. :)

> If you already have a 12v iron you might as well keep on using it for the
> light duty tasks such as battery connector to lead joints, speedo
> connections and for replacing broken RX wires ;-) provided it has a small
> enough tip. No more than 3.2mm for replacing RX wires or soldering any
> servo
> wire, it is too difficult to control where the heat gets to and you can
> overheat things far too easily.
>
> Chris
>
>
You've been a great help Chris. Ta again.

Paggle

[NeXuS]

"Chris Dugan" <chrisdotdugan@bloodyobvious.co.uk> wrote in message
news:WI2kf.22549$pc1.5737@newsfe4-gui.ntli.net...
>> That information is perfect. I did find an 80W Weller. BUT, the chisel
> tip
>> was bloody massive, (about 1cm wide I'd say that the tip was roughly at a
> 90
>> degree angle. The whole shaft is about 1 cm wide too! :0.
>>
>> I suppose I could use that one for the more demanding tasks and the
>> crappy
>> 12W one for the finer stuff?
>>
>> Ta again
>>
>> Paggle
>>
>>
> Good choice on the Weller :0) Keep that one for cells and motor
> connections,
> get another tip then file it down to a smaller point and use that for the
> motor connections if space is tight.
>
Purchased and done, soldering that tab was easier than p*ssing in snow. ;)

Admittedly time spent on the tab was mere seconds. Happy days. :)


> If you already have a 12v iron you might as well keep on using it for the
> light duty tasks such as battery connector to lead joints, speedo
> connections and for replacing broken RX wires ;-) provided it has a small
> enough tip. No more than 3.2mm for replacing RX wires or soldering any
> servo
> wire, it is too difficult to control where the heat gets to and you can
> overheat things far too easily.
>
> Chris
>
>
At least I have two irons now.

Paggle