wing plans for Houston Hawk

[Jim Cantillo]

Would anyone have the wing plans for the 3 meter Houston Hawk. I've been e-mailing the HH website now for at least 3 weeks with no answer. I've even e-mailed their presendent, no answer. I am even willing to pay the copying and shipping costs. Any help would be appreciated :D

[solo6796]

Jim,

Curious what address you may have sent the e-mail to. Unless your notes got caught up in my Spam Catcher and I missed it, someone surely would have replied ... I get lots of e-mails from folks inquiring about the model or wanting to visit and fly with us.

Anyway, M and S models have the plans, and sell the short kit, or just the plans and ribs/shear webs.. My personal plans are messed up, or I would copy them.

http://www.mandsmodels.com/services.html

There is a link to them on the website, too...

http://www.houstonhawks.org/

Alan Jones
President,
Houston Hawks RC Soaring

PS,

I also responded to your same request here on Oct 18th...

[solo6796]

I just did a test of the e-mail link shown on the website for

president@houstonhawks.org

It worked fine, and was not caught in my Spam Catcher....

Good luck with your build... Ol' Number2 gave me a 20 minute flight again last week.

AJ

[John Gallagher]

Alan,
Any word on the Yardbird?

[solo6796]

John,

Jack had to send another check to Laser Arts, apparently the original got lost. We should have the rib sets soon. He sent me a copy of the Building Instructions today, and I plan to post them to our website later tonight. I may have a new Yardbird wing by Thanksgiving....

AJ

[schrederman]

Working on slight plan revisions, no real changes, and a materials list tonight... I just need to add notes before copying.

Jack

[dr.E]

I was interested in cutting some cores for this sailplane and using Leon Kincaide's Heat Seeker Fuselage.......

[solo6796]

A materials list would be good... Duane is already chompin' at the bit to get one going. I think he's going to use the Art Hobby High Aspect Fuselage.

Guess what Jack? .... He's planning a V tail.

AJ

[solo6796]

I think we got off topic, tho... This thread is about the Houston Hawk...

AJ

[schrederman]

I may give you your money back... a V-Tail?!?!? I may just sell these to the Clovis Hawks... Probably not... but seriously, when you see mine fly, you'll be takin' that V-Tail idea somewhere else... If I ever get time to build one.

Back to topic, I flew my Hawk yesterday. It's still got it...

Jack

[gdjsky01]

I know it's been awaile... but if you can recall... when building the hawk rudder, did all of you taper the 1/2 stock before pinning to the plan? Or did you assemble it first, blocking up the trailing edge etc and then sand it?? It seems to me the rudder hinge post needs to be tapered top to bottom (to match the fin post in the fuse) first before pinning to the plan. No matter, it's just wood. I can always make more! :D

Also many various hstabs were built with each trying to lighten / strengthen / or both the hstab. What was the final results? My inclination is to build it to the plan.

[solo6796]

From: www.houstonhawks.org

shim and pin.

Rudder:

The rudder is constructed without ribs. It uses external strips, placing the weight where the strength is needed. Cut the 1/2 sq. fin post and rudder post to length and taper them to 3/8 X 1/2 at the top as shown. Mark them and drill them for hinge points together. Pin the rudder post to the plan. Cut the other outline pieces and gussets to shape and fit them carefully. Use a sanding block to perfect the joints so there won’t be any gaps in them when you pick it up. Make the trailing edge by laminating 1/16 sheets with 1/64 plywood in the middle. Use a thin spread of Titebond for this, and clamp it for an hour. Make sure the ply protrudes from the front of the laminate 1/4” to index the strip ribs. Use a piece if 1/16” sheet to shim a piece of 1/8 X 3/8 stick and attach it to the back edge of the rudder post. It will need to taper as the rudder does. This will index the strip ribs to the post. Add the laminated trailing edge to the rest of the framed rudder outline shimmed up 3/16” to center it with the plywood spline forward. Cut the diagonal strip ribs to shape and glue them to the rudder post and trailing edge spline and sheet. When dry, flip the rudder and add the strip ribs to the other side. Sand the rudder post to a perfect radius to fit slightly into the fin, and to hinge at the center of the radius. Fit the fin post to the fuselage and glue the hinge points in place with the hinge line 9/32“ behind the post. Glue these only to the fin post at this time. Slot the rudder post to allow the rudder to swing 30 degrees each way, while barely missing the fin post. Clamp the assembly into the fiberglass fin and check for movement. The fin post should be recessed about 3/16” into the fin. Trim and sand until all the pieces fit and the rudder swings properly. Put aside until the fuselage is ready.


More Here:
http://www.houstonhawks.org/Projects/HoustonHawk/Building/BuildingInstructions.htm

Jack and Don tried different stabs. I think Jack said the other day that the stock stab seemed to be best. If anything, I think it could be shortened a bit, but old Number2 flys good with the stock one. The Hawk seems to fly better at high 50's to low 60's ounces. If built to plan, you will be around 55 oz. or so...



AJ