TF Corsair Gold Ed--Conversion Build Thread

[Rob Schaffer]

Well, after a long hiatus from working on this project, I am back and ready to begin building again and complete this project. You may recall seeing some of these photos nearly a year ago, as I began working on this kit that I received from a friend who never really retained interest in the hobby.

Over the past few months, I had been building a Goldberg Anniversary Ed. .61 Piper Cub (75" span) for a fellow at work, so that was occupying my time, but also funding this project so I could gather all my parts, radio, retracts, and power system. Below are two photos of what I was looking at tonight, before I sat down at the PC to write this thread.

In the one photo, you can see the cockpit kit is 90% completed, the tail feathers are ready for final sanding, and the radial engine is painted as well.

In the other, you can see where most of my money went from selling/trading planes, and building the Piper Cub. Included in the photo is my new Optic 6 Radio with (6) Servos, Robart retract system with strut covers, an AXI 4130/16 with Jeti 77 ESC and 5V UBEC, Mejzik 3Blade 16-11 prop and a APC-e 16x10 Prop.

Originally, I was thinking of a Hacker C50-10L, geared, swinging an APC-e 18x10 or the three blade Mejzik, but funding cuts took away the Hacker :rolleyes: I am sure that the AXI will make this aircraft perform quite well though based on the many conversions it has been installed into here on the EZone.

[Rob Schaffer]

Now I'll start with some of the beginning photos showing how I have gotten to this point.

Here the fuselage is beginning the initial framing, with formers and stringers as supplied in the kit. I decided to use these kit parts, but lighten up on the 3/32 sheeting to 1/16th sheeting. Also, the cockpit was prepared and fit up at this time.

Since I was originally thinking a Hacker C50 with a 5S4P Lipo, I made cardboard boxes to the sizes of a 3S4P and 2S4P pack to work out the hatch fit and location. Now with the AXI, and the TP ProLites, I'll be looking to use (2) 3S3P packs in series.

[Rob Schaffer]

Here the top half of the fuselage is strung up and the sheeting has begun. There are large balsa blocks used frequently on this kit, but they are shaved down pretty hard during the finishing process.

[Rob Schaffer]

The bottom half of the fuselage is next, and the formers and stringers are slowly installed around the built up wing saddle. This wasn't to difficult, but then the internal linkage came into play. Although the linkage wasn't hard to build, it did take some adjustment to work properly and smoothly. Once covered up with sheeting, there will be no signs of rudder or elevator linkage exiting the plane, making a nice clean look at the rear of the fuse.

The pilot and his comrad are wondering if this will ever get off the building board and out into the daylight, as they can't find the spark plug!!

[Rob Schaffer]

In the previous post, the radial engine is nearly 7.25" in diameter.

So, after a long break, that is where I am at to date, but I hope that I can continue working on this project over the next few months and provide a continual report here on how the construction is coming along.

Overall, my goal is to finish the plane with three toned monokote, have operational flaps, retracts, and gear doors, and hopefully come in with an AUW between 8.5 and 9 lbs. I have to get a better scale to weigh the parts as I go, but a brief takeoff of all equipment, it seems easily possible.

Thanks for reading,... and I'll keep everyone updated,... :)

[flyyyer]

Looking good so far - I'll be watching closely, because there's a Topflite Spitfire kit up in the attic longing to be built and converted. Robart retracts and powertrain are all here too...
Lorenz

[TRP]

Rob,

Looks GREAT. I'm almost done with my Gold edition P47. After seeing your motor - I'm going to have to go back and detail mine up a bit.

Nice work.

Going for the big axi eh? I should have went that route. I picked up some purple power for an amazing deal so I went that route. Mine came to just at 10lbs auw (8s3p and Hacker B50 11xl, UBEC, the whole 9 yards)

Lorenz - my Spitfire is coming up soon. I'll lighten the formers in the fuse more on it, tail feathers too!

Rob - again - nice work.

Ted

[HanksGB]

I to have one of these and have been waiting/saving up to build her. Now that i'll finish school in May she's gonna move closer to the front burner. I'll be watching with interest. I have done a little research, and found that going electric for this plane is cheaper than glow, at least motor and esc from hobby lobby is cheaper than the o.s. .91fs from tower hobbies. As for batteries and glow fuel, i generally fighure that by the time the lipo pack is dead (100 charge cycles), you would have spent the same amount on glow fuel if not more.

Good luck, and great work,
Henry

[Rob Schaffer]

Thanks for the comments guys, it has been an exciting project so far. I would have liked to go "purple power" but it just wasn't feasible for the cost when compared to the AXI combination. Any day now, I should be recieving my motor mount and some additional wire, deans connectors, and the AXI radial mount kit from Espritmodels,... so after that arrives, All I'll have to purchase are those two 3S3P Lipos :D

Work keeps me busy, along with my twin daughters (who are about to turn one year old already) but I am planning on finishing this for early spring maiden (maybe even in March).

[Chad Veich]

Great thread, I'll be watching with interest as well. I have the TF Sea Fury all framed up and in glass and was considering a conversion to E-power for it. Look forward to seeing what kind of performance you get from the Corsair. Best of luck with it!

PS- I built the Gold Edition Corsair for IC power some years ago and it is a wonderful performer. You won't be dissapointed!

[feathermerchant]

Actually the pilots are wondering where the rear row of cylinders are.
Great build. I love the Corsair. Battery mockup - great idea!

TRP - I recently bought a barely started Gold edition Spitfire! We need a build thread.

[Rob Schaffer]

I was able to work for about an hour tonight after the twins went to bed. I was only able to get the bottom fuselage sheeting from the wing saddle back completed on one side. I had to get the sheeting wet to make the curve of the fuselage, and it still cracked in one area. A little fill along the joints, and it will be shaped nice later. I was also able to finish sanding the wing saddle area, so I can complete the work there the next time I get downstairs.

[Rob Schaffer]

I also recieved all my stuff from Espritmodels, and I really like the mount. This is the Type 1 mount with 2.5" extension rods. Really solid and it will fit well within the cowling and allow the front of the AXI to work well with the dummy radial engine.

AXI 4130/16 Mounted... :)

[feathermerchant]

If you need to drop some weight, make some 1" square pieces of 1/8 ply (not lite ply) and remove the rear Al plate. Use the 1" squares between the standoffs and firewall and get some right length 6/32 screws to go thru the firewall from the rear then thru the 1" square and into the standoff. I use flat washers and lockwashers under the screw head for security. Weigh the plate and existing hardware.

[Rob Schaffer]

Sorry I haven't updated in a while, I"ll try to get some photos soon. I have been working to much lately,.... (maybe I'll be able to put some $ aside for the lipos' though :D )

I have been working on the tailcone area, behind the tailwheel on the bottom of the fuselage, and this weekend I hope to finish the mounting of the motor to the firewall and fitting the cowling. I'll post pics after I get to that point.

[Rob Schaffer]

Well, finally I was able to get some time down in the hangar (aka basement) to get some work done. After my twins first birthday party this weekend, they were tired and surprisingly in bed by 8pm! :eek: Left me plenty of time to get some things done after the household chores.

Here are some photos of my progress so far. The fuselage is 90% completed now, with only a little work to be completed back near the rudder and elevator. After recieving some parts from HobbyLobby and from EspritModels, I mounted the AXI to the front of the firewall. The firewall has 2 deg right thrust built into it earlier, and I currently have the motor neutral (0 deg) on the up/down thrust line.

I used 3/4"x3/4"x3/8" Maple blocks, with 6-32 blind nuts and bolts to hold the cowl ring on. I countersunk the blind nuts into the blocks so I could epoxy them to the firewall as shown. The cowl ring is marked and scored for the cowling fins to be bent outward. I am going to have to heat the cowl ring up pretty good to bend them without cracking them I think.

Next steps: finish sand the main fuselage area and finish the tailcone near the elevator. Then, it's on to the wing!

Now to the photos,... :)

[HanksGB]

Rob,
She's lookin' really good. I'm following closely for insperation for mine.
Henry

[KOMET 44]

Rob looking good so far ;)

stefanP

[Rob Schaffer]

it has been a good project so far, and I really enjoy building, so even though it hasn't gone as fast as I originally hoped, it is progressing nicely. Work has settled down a little, and my daughter's birthday planning is over (it was their first birthday last week), so we are back to "normal" :cool:

My twin's first birthday photos (http://www.ourbabynews.com/babyschaffer)

:)

[Rob Schaffer]

Alright! Time was spent down in the workshop again and here are some photos. The fuselage is now complete except for final sanding. Tonight I fitted the rudder and the area between the bottom of the rudder and the top of the horizontal stabilizer. I think it turned out pretty good, and after a little sanding to a nice smooth finish, the covering will follow a classic corsair tail.

Unfortunately, I am coming in a little on the heavy side. Even though the fuselage isn't finish sanded yet, there won't be much weight loss from that. My target is to have the finished airframe (Fuselage, Rudder, Elevator, and Wing) to come in at 3.45-3.5 lbs without any equipment or wiring. As the fuselage sits now, it is coming in at 2 lbs even. I do have to get air into the fuselage for cooling, so some openings in the firewall and fuse bottom will be cut out, but I'm not sure where else I am going to take it from. I'll keep checking up on things as I build the wing. The last photo is a weight of all the components to go into the airframe, and my expected power setup. Shooting for 100 W/lb, I am shooting for 8.5 lbs total.

Now to the Photos :)

[pancho]

I built one few years back,it flew with an OS 120 ,it sure was an acomplishment,there is a lot of work involved.I would reinforce the nose section ,I think its the only weak part of the design,The flaps were a lot fun to build.and you will for sure will get the respect from the guys at the field if you decide to put them on.On take off,be sure the airplane has enough air speed before leaves the ground,those thick wings have alot of lift and it my surprise you with a too early take of,other than that the plane is easy to fly and beautifull to watch,Good luck on your project.

[drksyd]

Nice build Rob. I'm not sure what you had in plan for power but to keep the weight down you could go with two TP 3S2P 4200mah Pro Lite packs in series with a 16x10 prop.

[Rob Schaffer]

funny how the battery topic came up,... I just recieved two 3S3P 6000 Gen II Lites from a great deal here on the EZone. Rated 10C Continuous, they'll be good for my application.

The cardboard templates shown earlier in the thread were based on 3S?P Pack, and worked well in setting the former back a little longer than the plan would show.

I had to work in the basement a little tonight, since I got my batteries, so after a few minutes of checking voltages (they are A=12.33 V and B=12.42 V) I began to clear the workbench. A few minutes later, and I am ready to begin working on the wing over Thanksgiving weekend.

Pancho: Thanks for the comments on the building, it seems to be a common area. I am going to have the flaps operational, and I'm looking forward to the challenge. I think I have figured a way to make the gear doors operate with some springs and wire, but I'll have to mock those up later. From what I have heard, the plane is a great flyer, you just have to make sure the speed is up on takeoff, and you don't come in to slow or it will drop the left wing quickly. Glad to hear another sucessful flyer, always inspiring.

Now, on to the photos.

[Rob Schaffer]

For the wing, I am planning on 2 servos located out-board for the Ailerons, 2 servos located in the center section for the flap operation, the HS-81 and retract valve mounted forward of the main spar, in the center of the wing, with the Robart air-tank mounted behind the main spar, center of the wing. Going to be a tight fit, but I think I have clearance with a little modification.

:)

[kelvin]

I tried an HS81 for a retract servo on my Kyosho Spit for the Spring Air retract valve and found it wasn't strong enough. The servo would open and close the valve but you could hear it stall even with the linkage on the closest hole on the servo arm. An HS81 solved this. Maybe Robart valves aren't as sticky.

Kelvin

[drksyd]

Kelvin
Which servo did you end up using?

Rob
Which servos are you going to use for the aileron and flaps. For my H9 Miss America conversion I'll be using Hitec 225's but may get some JR one's for the P-40.

[feathermerchant]

Rob - Great build. On my H9 Miss America I mixed some rudder (~10%) to the ailerons. This will really help 'pick up' a wing on takeoff. Of course you'll be standing on the right rudder all during the takeoff run. BTW I'm using HS85MG's on the ail and HS85 on the elevator. You won't need much travel - no 3D - so you can set up the linkages to make best use of your servos' torque. Looking forward to the flight report.

[k_sonn]

Rob,

Nice job on the Corsair. One way you can lighten up the airframe without compromising structual integrity is to cut circles in the ribs with a Fostner bit. You can also do this on the rudder and elevators. I did this on the Brian Taylor Hellcat I am building (there is a build thread in the Electric Warbird section of this forum). Here's a photo showing the ribs.

Kirk

[sdberlin]

Very nice building job!

Regards
Stefan

[pancho]

On my TF corsair I used an OS 120 four stroke, at 32 oz weight, its not lite,olso I used an OS aluminum motor mount ,not lite either.and I did not installed retracts .I tell you all this to let you know how much weight there was put on the nose of the plane and it balanced perfect.those 6,000 mhp batteries will help you to put some weight up front ,when you add the weight of your batteries and the axi 4530 you will end up with the same weight of mine corsair and will balance perfect.I would not try to make the frame lighter ,the plane will be light enough as it is.Good luck,pancho.

[Rob Schaffer]

I had planned on using HS-325 Standard servos for the Rudder and Elevator, and originally for the flaps and ailerons as well. (Since I have them) If I can get some HS-85 MG servos in the near future, they will go in the wing for the ailerons and possibly flaps. This will save some weight without any loss in servo torque. (if I remember correctly the 85 and 325 have the same torque output) As Feathermerchant said, this isn't going to be flying 3D, just scale.

Made some progress tonight on some of the framing for the center wing section. I have most of the ribs prepped and the main spar has been routed out to allow the retract legs to pass into the wing when they are in the up position. If I get some time this weekend, I'll probably get a few ribs glued in place, then I'll post a photo or two.

Rob

[vax6335]

Nice work! I wish I could afford to convert mine to electric.

[Rob Schaffer]

time,... that's what it takes. I have been planning this conversion for over a year, asking questions here and there on these forums to make sure my purchases were heading in the right direction. Save a little here and there, and it eventually adds up to a Radio, or retracts, or most recently, the (2) 3S3P Lipos. :)

Tonight I was able to start framing the "spine". This is the center of the wing, but it reminds me of a backbone for some reason. :rolleyes: I have to cut the ribs for the retract bays yet, as I am modifying this area to hopfully allow me to have working gear doors. In the forground you can see the LE for this area as well. After seeing how some other TF Corsairs have had their gear mounted, I came across one model that showed the air tank recessed into the center of the wing. This will make all the air connections and the valve assembly within the wing structure so I minimize the number of tube connections. Where the parts were cut to fit the tank, I have soaked them with thin CA, so I don't forsee any structural problems with this mod.

Now to the photos. :)

[Rob Schaffer]

The ribs are all installed for the wing center section, still have to setup the mounting bolts and alighnment dowel, but it's taking shape.

Tested the Robart air retracts and system, all works nice when clamped to the bench. At first, I didn't have the air-line restrictors in place, and BAM! they slammed up and down, much faster than I expected. After installing the restrictors on both the down and up lines, I like the way they move. Has anyone ever used two restrictors on the same line, to really slow them down? I wasn't sure if doing so would cause problems locking them down. I think I would prefer to have them drop out of the wing slower, for a more scale effect. The next step will be to fit them into the wing section and epoxy in the mounting rails.

[feathermerchant]

I installed the tank vertical in my Royal corsair. It fit inside the fuse and I did not have to cut spars at all.
It does make sense as far as the lines are concerned.

[k_sonn]

Has anyone ever used two restrictors on the same line, to really slow them down? I wasn't sure if doing so would cause problems locking them down. I think I would prefer to have them drop out of the wing slower, for a more scale effect.
If you slow them down too much they may not lock in the down position because of wind resistance, especially if you have the front doors. They will move slower in the air than they do on the ground. I always fly a plane first and then adjust the retracts accordingly.

By the way, which retract valve are you using, the red one or the blue one? If you have the red one, you do not need to use restrictors as you can adjust the up and down speed at the valve.

Kirk

[Rob Schaffer]

I have the older blue valve, so I don't have the adjustment capability. I'll try the restrictors as they are now, and see how it works out when I am flying this spring.

[fliir]

Will two restrictors in series really slow the gear down significantly? Aren't they orifice devices?

[Rob Schaffer]

fliir: I guess that was my question as well. Seems like I better just use one restrictor per line and see how she flies.

I was able to frame up the outer wing panels pretty quickly, and still have some work on them before beginning the sheeting. I have to plan servo access and items like that, but it's coming together well. More photos after this coming week's work session.

[Rob Schaffer]

Well, last night I was able to get some time down in the shop after the girls went to bed. I spent most of the time fussing with getting the retracts mounted with a nice smooth fit on the rails, and aligned with one another. I decided to mount the retracts using 4-40 bolts with blind nuts, since I will probably have to mount and un-mount them often during the building process, and for future maintenance of the "infamous" robart links. I used a small spot of CA glue to set the rail in place on the retract body, and then clamped in place while I drilled out the bolt holes. I'll remove the retract bodies from the mounts, and use some 30 min epoxy around the rails to ensure a good bond.

Also, I was able to install the TE of the outer wing panels while they were laying on the boards. Once dry, I stood them on the TE and applied a small CA fillet on each side of the rib to the TE. Should be good to go now.

Now to the Pics... :)

[Rob Schaffer]

Well, I was able to get my typical Thursday work session in. Tonight I attached the LE to the outboard panels, and then joined the three panels together. I wasn't to happy with the lack of alignment help here from the kit or plans,... I expected more built into the design based on the way the rest of the kit has been designed up to this point. I ened up jigging the wing off the edge of the table, using stock wood that I had in a box to create braces, shims, and blocks, in order to get the wing straight and true. I marked all the locations and which block I used where, so when I begin to sheet the bottom of the wing I can set it up true, and then the sheeting will keep things in place once installed.

Starting to really come together now.

[drksyd]

Looking good Rob. Good luck with the wings, it'll really start shaping up with the sheeting on.

[Rob Schaffer]

With the holidays, don't know if I'll get to much time to work on the wing, but I have two HS-85 servos for the ailerons, and 2-HS 225 servos for flaps on the way from ServoCity. When I get them I can setup the mounts and run the wires in the wing. In the mean time, I'll probably get the sheeting ready and sand the LE, TE sections, and work on setting up the air lines for the retracts.

[Rob Schaffer]

Well, thought I would bring this thread from the end of page 3 to the front again,...

After a long holiday, and then a few long work weeks,... I have used up much of my "buffer" time in my planned construction schedule, so hopefully this thread will start moving with updates again. I have all the servos from Servocity now, and I hope to find some time this weekend to get them mounted into the wing. I've read up on programming my radio so I am ready to begin installing and testing linkages shortly.

Thanks to those that have posted or PM'd me with tips,... the hard part is just around the corner (ie flaps and wheel doors)

[Rob Schaffer]

I have the two flap servos installed in the inboard portion of the wing and connected to a Y-harness routed to the center of the wing near the air tank. The aileron servos have been installed on the outboard panels, about 1/3rd the length of the aileron away from the root end. I need to extend the servo wires in order to reach the center Y-harness point, so that will have to be completed next.

I also cut the rear of the cowl to shape the cowl flaps. Using an old tip on my soldering iron, I slowly heated the inside of the cowl to bend each flap outwards nearly 3/8" or so. In the end, the overall product looks good, and I am happy with the amount of outlet area for motor / ESC cooling later.

I'll post some photos as I begin to sheet the wing this weekend if all goes well. So far, I am looking good for my airframe weight (empty) of 3.5 lbs. The plane as it was last shown with me holding it comes in at 2 lbs 14 oz. All that is needed ontop of that wieght is the wing sheeting and bellypan, so I think it will be pretty good. :D

[Rob Schaffer]

Tonight I was able to fit the air lines though the wing ribs to the retract bays, and I have them connected to the Robart Blue valve. I mounted this into the wing along with the retract servo and connected the linkage. Using the EPA adjustment on my Optic 6, I set the rates to 50%, and then powered up the Rx, with the hopes of eliminating the servo binding on startup. Sure enough, this worked well, and I just added EPA in each direction until the valve stops just barely contacted the main valve assembly. With this now in place, I am ready to begin wing sheeting!!

Photos of the plumbing and wiring mess will be posted once I get a chance.
:rolleyes:

[Rob Schaffer]

Here's the photos of the center of the wing. The servo wires still have to be organized a little, but everything is working properly. The air tank and retract servo will slide up into the fuselage between the wing saddles, but the nice part of this is, I will be able to fill the tank in the wing, and not have to worry about a connection between the fuselage and the wing all the time.

[drksyd]

Nice Rob, it'll look much cleaner after you sheet the wing. It'll be slick if you could mount the refill valve to the bottom of the wing so you could refill tank without removing the wing.

[Rob Schaffer]

Thanks for the reply,... been a while with a lot of views, but few responses.....


I plan to mount the refill valve and the pressure guage directly below the valve, built into the belly pan. I've got my sheeting joined and sanded, so after I shovel the 12+ inches of snow outside that we recieved, I may get a chance today/tonight to begin a little bit.

:rolleyes:

[flypaper 2]

I have the same plane coloured like Pappy Boyingtons, but when I got into electrics the poor thing sits there unfinished. Ready to install a OS 91 four stroke but It looks like i'm going to have to go electric. You have the power system figured out which would have been a stumbling block for me as I'm into the smaller stuff. Keep up the good work and I'll follow along. :D

[Rob Schaffer]

flypaper:
this will be my first large project where I am using two 3S lipos together. As you can see back earlier in this thread, I have added a forward hatch to allow battery access while at the field and once the plane is put together. You can do the same, by removing the fuel tank and placing the battery tray there. My hatch is between the second and third former behind the Firewall.

From looking at other similar sized projects, I should be in good shape with the power system. What does your's weigh in at now?

[flypaper 2]

Rob:
Fuse. weighs 2 lbs 9.5 oz with 3 servos and no tank. throttle servo I won't need :p Fibre glassed and painted. Wing weighs 2 lbs. 12 oz. with 4 servos and retracts, so I think it's do-able. No trouble to do the batt. hatch.
Gord.

[roadhogtri]

Rob, been following your build, looks nice. I just have a quick ?. How is the servo for the retracts suppost to be adjusted to have the right amount of travel to open and close the valve? I'm building a CMP P-47 .40 with Robart air retracts and I'm using an HS 55 servo for my valve, but can't get it to have the right travel. It has to much travel. Mine system has the green valve.

Thanks,
Rafael

[diver don]

RH,
I have the same setup on my TF P-40.
Just adjust the end points with the Tx to give you the proper travel ,like Rob said.

DD

[roadhogtri]

Thanks, I just figured it out. I didn't know I could access the other four channels on my radio. Busted out the manual and now I know how to do it. Thanks again.

Rafael

[Rob Schaffer]

Well, been a long road to get here, but wing sheeting is starting to take place. Hopefully I'll be able to get a few sections put on this weekend.

[Rob Schaffer]

Outside panels almost done. I am going to leave the one area open, and just apply caps to the ribs.

The clamps my wife got me for christmas work great. Just enough pressure to hold things on without much denting of the sheeting, and they are small enough to get into tight spots. :)

[Rob Schaffer]

Been a while since I posted, so time for a quick update.

Top sheeting of the outboard panels is now complete with the rib caps applied and then smoothly sanded. I joined 4 sheets of sheeting together so I can cut them on a 45 degree angle and have sheeting that will hopefully bend in two directions at once in order to complete the top section at the gull bend. Things are coming along nicely, and I should have an updated photo or two over the weekend.

[feathermerchant]

I framed up a Royal corsair and the instructions had me plank the curved parts with ~1/4" wide strips. Grain run spanwise.

[flypaper 2]

Rob:
I remember when I had trouble sheeting the gull part. Heard of other people having the same trouble, as the sheeting would crack with the compound curve.What I ended up doing was cover it with 1/32 balsa on a 45 degree angle, then another layer of 1/32 diagonal to the first. Worked well plus a bonus as it makes for a very strong balsa ply joint. I used aliphatic resin glue. Just something to look out for.

[LS427]

Just a silly question but what's wrong with just soaking the wood in water? I did a scratch build 3d plane and soaked the wood in water and got it plyable enough to do just about anything. Throw some rubber bands around it to hold the shape I needed until the balsa dried overnight then I glued it the following day when it was dry. I'm new to the hobby so I don't know if this would cause problems later down the road with age but it seems to work good so far.

[flypaper 2]

That works good in some cases like yours, and the one in my avatar. It was a carved foam fuse. The balsa was soaked then wrapped around the foam then wrapped with horse leg bandages and let dry overnight, then trimmed and glued to the foam afterwards. If I glued it on while it was wet, it would pull out of shape as it dried out. In the case of the Corsair it would pull out of shape as it dried. Hope this helps.

[Rob Schaffer]

I'm planning on trying the warm water soak, then gluing down, cover with wax paper, and weight with lead shot in an old pair of socks. this has worked well for me in the past, so I'll see how it does on the gull portion of the wing. Thanks for the suggestions, they'll be my "Plan B" approach. :)

[Rob Schaffer]

Only two more pieces of sheeting to be installed on the top, and then it's onto the bottom, which will be much quicker.

These main pieces were joined together first, then I fit one up without glue, using it as a template for the opposite side. A little glue, some pins, and we are in business!

These went on easily without haveing to steam or wet them. I think I'll have to do something for the part that is left, we'll have to see. The sheeting I have together is pretty soft, but the glue joint is the hard part to bend. I'll let you know how that works out later this week.

[Rob Schaffer]

Well, nothing has been done since the last set of photos, except that I have removed the pins from the sheeting. I received my Flat Insignia Blue, and Flat Dove Gray coverings, along with the Major Decals Stars and Bars, and I should be receiving my Robostruts soon. I was thinking of only using the straight stock struts, but our field really took a dive for the worst this winter and we have a lot of maintenance to get it back the way we all like it.

I'll be doing some more work on her this week, so I'll try and post information as I get a little farther.

[Rob Schaffer]

Work hasn't been progressing as quickly as I would like. Not due to any additional difficulty in the building, but more on the side of haveing to much else going on lately keeping me from going down to work on it. It's always easier to add a wing rib or two when you go down to put laundary in the washer or if I have a few minutes after the girls go to bed, but once the wing sheeting has begun, it takes a little more time for each piece. :rolleyes:

Anyway, I did get a chance to make some progress, so here it is. I mounted the wing onto the fuselage so I could align the wing mounting block and drill for the wing bolts. So far, only the mounting block has been epoxied in place, but I have everything pinned and clamped together so it shouldn't move anywhere. I also added a small segment of wing sheeting on the outboard panels around the aileron servos.

In the mail this week I received my Robostruts, man are they nice. I have to get myself a little tap set so I can tap the holes for the set-screws. The decals from Major Decals arrived as well, and they will really make the plane come to life once it is covered. :cool:

[P-38J-Lightning]

update?

[Rob Schaffer]

I have the bottom of the wing sheeting completed with the exception of around the wheel wells. I've completed the installation of the air lines, with the air fill valve and pressure gauge located just off center of the belly-pan. I was surprised by the amount of cycles I can get on a tank, much more than I hope to use during a flight. I'll post a few photos later this week showing the progress, and hopefully the completion of the wing sheeting. :)

[Rob Schaffer]

made some progress this rainy weekend working on the wheel wells and then sheeting some more. I added some ribs to accept the hinges for the wheel doors and square off the wheel bays. This went well and then I sheeted over the wheel bay on thr undersite of the right wing. Still have the left wing to go, but that shouldn't be to bad.

You can also see the placement of the air valve and pressure guage. This will be a nice place, slightly recessed along the belly pan sheeting, to have access while at the field.

[Rob Schaffer]

Here's a few photos from tonights work,.. it's late, so I'll write descriptions tomorrow!

[Rob Schaffer]

Last night's work went really well, and I am nearly completed and ready for the sanding process. As you can see in the photos in the last post, I was able to finish the bottom wing sheeting over the wheel wells and also complete the belly pan area. I have to install some of the fillet blocks for the belly pan just aft of the TE, but that will be pretty simple. Once I sand everything, I'll be using the sheeted wing as a form for the gear doors by laying up some fiberglass to cut the gear doors from. I'll also then cut the access ports for the flap servos.

:)

[flypaper 2]

Looking good,Rob. Are you going to leave the outer panels open fabric covered like the early Corsairs? What's the weight up to now? I made the gear doors the same way.

[Rob Schaffer]

The outer wing panels will be left open and covered for the ribbed look like the original.

Right now, the weight as you see it in the photos (without the cowl and control surfaces) is 3 lbs 8 oz. This does include 5 servos in the wing, the wiring, and the air valve, refill valve, and pressure guage. Not to bad so far. My target was this amount without any of the electronics,...

Any tips on the gear doors? I've seen how people do them this way, but this will be a first attempt at fiberglassing. I was thinking 1 oz cloth with 2 layers, using Z-poxy.

Thanks...

[mustang11]

Rob,
As a suggestion use a 'core' of 1/64th ply for the doors as you'll not believe how stiff that'll come out.............. I can't take credit for the idea but really don't remember where I read to do so. I'm doing this on a P-51 Mustang and am really happy with the outcome.

[Rob Schaffer]

can you elaborate on your statement of using the 1/64th ply? Do you mean to use it like layers of fiberglass to layer the doors? I guess that would work as well,... hmm,... now you have me thinking..... :rolleyes:

[flypaper 2]

Quite a while ago since I made them for mine, but If I remember right, I made paper patterns of the doors, then iron on a piece of Monocote oversize where the doors will go. Think I used two layers of 6 oz and a layer of 2 oz. glass with Z poxy on the monocote. After it hardens put the paper pattern on and cut through the glass, monocote and balsa sheeting on the wing. As you can tell, you need to get the pattern on in exactly the right spot. Peel the Monocote off the wood part and you have a nice set of doors.

[Rob Schaffer]

Flypaper2, that was the method I was about to go ahead and do. I have my fiberglass and Z-poxy on the way from Tower Hobbies now,.. (might be here today :) )

[mustang11]

Rob,
I did just about the same thing as Flypaper 2 but used the 1/64th ply as the 'paper' pattern, laying an oversize piece of ply in place held down with tape. The first layer of glass/resin goes on top and locks the shape in place once cured. Remove the cured door blank from the wing (it ought to be really stiff) and simply glass the other side. Allow this to cure and then trim to fit, the resulting door will be stiff and light. If you do indeed monocoat the area you could place the door blank back into place before trimming to allow the second layer of glass/resin to cure, and as an added bonus it'll have a really smooth finish to boot................. I'd recommending using a good paste wax as a release agent prior to any glassing or you *may* have one 'ell of a time removing the door blank (ask me how I know this :rolleyes: ). Is the ply core necessary? Probably not but OMG is the resulting door stiff :). Hope this helps, Larry V.

[Rob Schaffer]

Haven't forgotten about this thread,... just haven't done much. Things are pretty much ready to try molding the gear doors. I don't have to work this weekend so I'll try to get some new photos up. :rolleyes:

[SCALEFAN]

Rob,

It looks like you might need some inspiration.

http://media.putfile.com/Inspiration-88

Do you need more inspiration, click on this one. Just another day at the RC airport. LOL

http://media.putfile.com/Another-day-43

Al Gutkin, aka Scalefan

[Tripower455]

Rob,

Great job!

I am building one of these right now too, and I am going to copy your idea of putting the air tank and valve in the wing saddle too. I will also have a retractable tailwheel, but still haven't decided whether to use an air cylinder or servo to actuate it. It will likely come down to which one is lighter.

I've got thge wing and tail framed up now, and I am about to start the servo install in the wing, and start roughing in the flaps. I went with the CJ retracts on this one. They look and work nice, but I am concerned that I might have issues with the gear doors. We'll see.

This TF Corsair is a warmup for the Royal kit I have in the bullpen. This one is getting a Supertigre .90, but I am seriously considering making the Royal electric. I'll be watching this thread with interest as you start the power system install! I was a hard sell to the "dark side" (electric RC) but have been really enjoying the smaller (s400 sized) warbirds for a year or so.

[corsair nut]

wow, a royal corsair! i built a royal 40 size corsair from my dads old plans! here are some pics...the model is getting a more accurate paint job soon, and i just installed robart struts and bigger tires on it as well, and hope to have it back in the air soon!

do you know where you can get royal plans/kits/parts?

[Tripower455]

wow, a royal corsair! i built a royal 40 size corsair from my dads old plans! here are some pics...the model is getting a more accurate paint job soon, and i just installed robart struts and bigger tires on it as well, and hope to have it back in the air soon!

do you know where you can get royal plans/kits/parts?


Not to hijack Robs thread, but I got a set of Royal .60 Corsair plans off Ebay, and then ended up talking my friend into selling a kit that he had sitting around. Also, a guy on another forum made a set of Autocad drawings of all the parts, converted to US dimensions (the kit is metric) and sent them to me.
PM or email me if you want more info.......

That .40 size looks great btw! I love how the Royal outline is accurate to scale......

[Rob Schaffer]

That is just what I needed, a video of a full size corsair with that great engine sound,... and then some photos of another corsair,....

my daughters are in bed,.. bills are done,... time to go to the hangar. Thanks guys. :)

[Tripower455]

That is just what I needed, a video of a full size corsair with that great engine sound,... and then some photos of another corsair,....

my daughters are in bed,.. bills are done,... time to go to the hangar. Thanks guys. :)


LOL.... I've been out there for 6 hours today working on my TF...... I am just taking a break, and will go back out for a little more!

I got the wing all framed and the bottom of the outer panels sheeted. I decided to take a break on the wing for a while, and start the fuse. I've got most of the top part done and sheeted. I still have the turtle deck area to sheet, and will do that tonight.

I made a few mods to the outline of the tips, as well as the rudder. I also took the right thrust out of the firewall, and added 2 degrees of incidence to the stab. I will mod the wing saddle for the 2 degrees pos as well. I've had several red box F4Us, and they all flew tail down. The real one had 2 degrees positive, as do most other kits. I don't know why TF made it 0......

[Rob Schaffer]

wow,.. 6 hrs.... that would be fantastic. :eek:

I currently work 2 jobs so my wife can stay home with our 1 1/2 yr old twin girls. By the time the night is done, a few hours sleep and then I'm back to work again. I'm nearing completion, and work is slowing down a little, so I am hoping to wrap up all the details in the next week or two.

[Tripower455]

wow,.. 6 hrs.... that would be fantastic. :eek:

I currently work 2 jobs so my wife can stay home with our 1 1/2 yr old twin girls. By the time the night is done, a few hours sleep and then I'm back to work again. I'm nearing completion, and work is slowing down a little, so I am hoping to wrap up all the details in the next week or two.


I am off all week, so I am trying to get a big chunk of the grunt work done, so I can start working on the detail stuff, like flaps......

[SCALEFAN]

Rob:

I'm the guy that posted the video of the Corsair with the intention of providing motivation. This message is the opposite.

Family comes first......You don't owe anybody on this web site anything, finish the plane when you feel like you're in the mood. Working two jobs, taking care of twins, man, you have your hands full.

RELAX! TAKE A NAP. FINISHING THE CORSAIR PROJECT SHOULD BE PUT WAY DOWN ON THE LIST.

Let other guys fill in for you when it comes to the Corsair build thread.

Al

[Rob Schaffer]

Scalefan,... I totally agree. That's the main reason why this project has taken since mid-summer of 2004 to get to where I am now. Building and flying was something that my wife and I shared for a few years before the girls arrived,.. even going to fun fly's and shows a few times a month. Now, due to the way things have changed, we both have our own little time to relax,.. she likes to do some crafts and watch E.R. , and I try to get down to work for an hour or so. I'm not complaining at all about not being able to get farther along... every day I walk up to the door and my daughters are there to greet me,... I've got many years to enjoy flying,... but the minutes pass so quickly as the girls grow up....

[Tripower455]

Scalefan,... I totally agree. That's the main reason why this project has taken since mid-summer of 2004 to get to where I am now. Building and flying was something that my wife and I shared for a few years before the girls arrived,.. even going to fun fly's and shows a few times a month. Now, due to the way things have changed, we both have our own little time to relax,.. she likes to do some crafts and watch E.R. , and I try to get down to work for an hour or so. I'm not complaining at all about not being able to get farther along... every day I walk up to the door and my daughters are there to greet me,... I've got many years to enjoy flying,... but the minutes pass so quickly as the girls grow up....


Golf Clap.... You've definitely got your priorities straight!

I am just easing back into this hobby after a 10 year hiatus. My son turned 9 in Feb, and I soloed him on his Slow Stick last year. My daughter will be 13 this year, and she has shown a passing interest in RC stuff... we are now building her an Estarter and it will be pink....... :confused: ;) Where did the time go?

Enjoy every second of fatherhood. You will not believe how quickly time passes and every second is special, even the mundane every day stuff. It seems like just yesterday that I was bringing my kids home from the hospital.

[Rob Schaffer]

Not to get to far from the Corsair info,.. but here's a pink one for you and your daughter. Before we had the girls, my wife wanted a pink tigermoth to fly at the Lehigh Valley fun fly,... we had it done, but nerves got the best of her that day and she didn't fly it,.. I did though. Pink Tiger Moth (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124159) :D

[Tripower455]

Not to get to far from the Corsair info,.. but here's a pink one for you and your daughter. Before we had the girls, my wife wanted a pink tigermoth to fly at the Lehigh Valley fun fly,... we had it done, but nerves got the best of her that day and she didn't fly it,.. I did though. Pink Tiger Moth (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=124159) :D

Cool! Definitely gives me a few ideas for her Estarter.....

I was going to try using cheapo acrylic craft paint, thinned and airbrushed. Might be a bit heavy though!

[Rob Schaffer]

Everything is sanded, ready for finishing,.. except for one more wing tip,... :rolleyes:

The pilot is a little big, as he is more suited for a 1/6th scale rather than 1/7th. Soon it will be time for him to have an operation,... leg amputation,... :eek:

[feathermerchant]

Man hat firewall looks thick. I think I'd double the size of those holes.

[Tripower455]

Which pilot is that? He looks great, if a little big.... Did they let Lurch fly fighters? ;) I might buy one of those guys to sit in the ready shack (my office shelf)....

I've got a 1/7 scale CJ figure, and he is about the same size (too big). He will also need a butt and legectomy to fit under the canopy. The TF Corsair is just about 1/8 scale, despite it's advertising, but I can't find a semi decent pilot in 1/8 scale....


BTW, you're shaming me into getting out here again today.......

Beautiful job! :D

[Rob Schaffer]

The pilot and the crewman, are the same guys in just in different outfits that are supplied with the action figure. They are 1/6th scale, WWII Elite Force figures from Blue Box Toys. This one is the US Pilot Lt. "Doc" Miller. All the accessories I have on are actual fabric, with text printed on them and all. Has a parachute bag (no actual parachute inside), Life Jacket, Goggles, Tie, Gun, Holster, Gun magazine, Oxygen mask, Knife with sheath,... Jacket,...

Pretty good setup, but I think it was around $35. see www.blueboxtoys.com (http://www.blueboxtoys.com) (click on the link,.. then the "BBI" at the top of the center list. Looks like they now have a great 1/18th scale pilot and corsair!! Going to have to go find out how much that costs. Sometimes you can find these guys at ToysRus, but I found them cheaper online.

You can see them a little better on the first few photos of this build thread,.. post #4 I think. The radial engine in the photo is 7 1/2" in diameter, so these guys are pretty tall. I plan on taking off his legs, and maybe cutting his torso, then using foam to keep the shape but save weight. The torso is big enough to hide a HS-55 or smaller servo if you wanted to operate the head right/left with the rudder or ailerons. I was thinking of trying it,... we'll see.

[Karrie Anne]

Hey there, Rob. You must have an amazing wife... she lets you go out in the garage night after night to work on your plane! She sounds like a wonderful woman! the plane looks good... but does your wife know you play with dolls?! :p Have a good one!

[drksyd]

Yes, he must have a good wife. BTW nice avatar, reminds me of post 91.

[Rob Schaffer]

Ha Ha,.. I got a good kick out of showing her that,... She was Caught! :eek:

[Smash McCrash]

I have a Top Flite Sea Fury that I have been thinking of electricuting, but have been leery of the advertised weight. I am looking forward to seeing how the Corsair performs.

Whats the weight so far? Any idea?

Mike