Trio Build

[TJTucson]

Here we go again ... I've looked everywhere for some instructions on building the Trio and have found none. :o So for those who are in the same boat I'm in, I figured I would show everyone my mistakes :D

Maybe I should clarify one thing, this really is not a build thread. The Trio comes ARF, you've just got to mount your wing servos (that's easy and not covered in detail here), fix your boom to the pod, fix your ballast system, mount your elevator / rudder servos, run control rods, check the balance then fly.

But usually like to have some suggestions on how to do these things. I spent a couple of hours this afternoon looking for a PDF file on the internet assembly instructions. The Isthmus web site is not responding to my browser and the European site just wants to give me pricing.

So here's what I'm doing to put this together .... you can watch my mistakes and hopefully learn from my goofs (lets hope I don't have too many :eek: ).

As always please post your experiences and "tricks" - I've learned more from you guys on this forum then I could in a life time of building. By the way - THANKS!!!

Tracy

[TJTucson]

I love the look of the wings. Someone said that if you can't see the sun shine thru your wings then it's not a sailplane. :rolleyes: I'll post pictures later on with the wings.

Just a note about the wings, they come precut for servos and I simply mounted servo trays in the wings. Then bolted in the 368's ..... oh before I did that, I ran the wiring harness. Thats all.

Really simple .... I really have not taken any pictures of this procedure, but if you want just let me know and I'll shoot some pics of another mounting.

Wings are ready now!! :D

[TJTucson]

Here is where I was puzzled about putting together. I want to be very careful about what is completed and in what order I do it. The fuse / boom is in three pieces. The boom which has mounts already in the far tail section for the Rudder and Elevator (nothing really to work on there except bolting them in). The boom needs to be glued to what I will call the middle fuse or wing saddle. Then the wing saddle needs to be glued to the nose or servo tray.

The quality of all the pieces is top notch. I really like the way everything slides together and because it's in three pieces it lets you have access where some fuses don't allow access.

First thing I figured I needed to do is get the balast tube in place and check the wing bolting. I've decided on a balast system that will bolt inside the tube and not a "shotgun" style balast system with cartridges. So I need to set up the bolting to hold it in place once inside the tube.

I drilled out the nose fuse where I wanted the bolt / nut then used a drop of CA to hold the nut in place. After removing the bolt and waxing it good, screwed the bolt in place about 1/2 thread above the nut. I then epoxied the nut permenantly in place with 5 minute epoxy mix.

[TJTucson]

I sanded the balast tube and the inside of the wing saddle where they meet. Need to remove all the mold release from the manufacturer and make sure the surface will grab the epoxy / CA. After prep I used an old wing rod to push the balast tube down onto the wing saddle. I had to put the nose section on the wing saddle with the balast tube in place. Once I did that the balast tube lifted off the bottom of the wing saddle. Need something to force it down to get it tacked in place with CA.

I then used thin CA to run down the balast tube and shot it with accelerator. BE CAREFUL HERE - the only thing you want CA on is the bottom of the balast tube. If you get too much CA it can run down to the nose section and CA the nose section to the wing saddle. I don't think it's time to glue that yet ..... :eek:

Once tacked in place with CA, I epoxied the tube in place. One spot near the boom and another near the nose fuse.

[pocket rocket]

hey Tracy

you sure you got the right forum for this ?!?!?!?!?!!?

what size prop are you using ???

Philip

[TJTucson]

Yea - I just asked a mod to move it to the right area .... Oppss :o

You weren't suppose to see it yet !! ;)

[Ric Duley]

It's in the right place now. ;)

[TJTucson]

That didn't take long. :mad: I just realized I've glued the balast tube in place and I don't have a tow hook installed! So let's take a look at what I've got ..... a kevlar balast tube epoxied to the bottom of the fuse and a tow hook which needs to be mounted :confused:

Here's what I propose to do ..... 1. Cut slot on CG where the hook belongs matching the length of the mounting plate. Width will be such that the plate will be able slide inside the ballast tube. 2. I will have to cut away the ballast tube where the plate mounts because it's wider than the ballast tube's ID. 3. Increase the slot's length to accomidate any tow hook adjustment necessary to get a vertical launch.

Here's a quick CAD drawing of what I propose to complete. Any suggestions? :o

Tracy

[TJTucson]

I'm going to edit this post thru out the assembly. That way you won't make my mistakes. ;)

Fuse Assembly Sequence:
1. Cut opening in wing saddle to allow center access and wiring harness.
2. Install tow hook where you want it.
3. Install ballast tube (system).
4. Reinforce the horizontal and rudder stab mounts with Aramid thread & CA.

Wing Assembly Sequence:
1. Install wiring harness in center section and tip panels (tips if you want a harness - it may not be necessary depending on your preference)
2. I install the servos using servo brackets, otherwise use your preferred method.
3. Using a square line up, measure and cut-in the control horns.
4. Fabricate your preferred control rod.
5. Install and electronically center servos
6. Lay down a "base layer" of clear wing tape along the servo cover slots.
7. Tape on your servo covers, making sure your covers do not interfer with the operation and full motion of the servos and controls. Cut away any part of the cover which restricts or interfers with the movement.

[TJTucson]

Okay - While I decide how to fix my screw up, lets put the boom on the wing saddle.

First I used 5 minute epoxy to secure the boom to the wing saddle. Sand using 320 emory cloth both the inside of the boom and the outside of the wing saddle where the two mate. My fit was pretty snug. If you sand to much then it will be lose and hard to align.

I forgot to take pictures of this but here is the description of my alignment procedures. I mount the wing to the saddle and the elevator to the boom. Then I use a flat table to get both surfaces level and flat. I put my incidence meter on the wing and make sure the elevator and wing match. Since I can't find instructions for this plane, I am setting the incidence difference at zero. Can't go wrong here setting at zero .... if I set it positive or negative then I may have to compensate later with elevator trim. (This is my assumption anyway :o )

Once I've set up my "shims" to make it zero I check alignment along the roll axis. Need to make sure the rudder does not fight you during flight. I measure from the tips of the wing to the center of the boom making sure both sides are equal. I put tape down on the flat table and then mark alignment spots for the fuse to table and boom to table spots. This with the shims should make everything square ..... but, ask the guys I fly with and they will tell you I tend to put some twist in the tail. I try to explain it away as compensation for the "extreme" launches :D Sounds good to me anyway!

Anyway use the 5 minute epoxy to set the boom on the fuse and make sure your alignment marks are all centered.

[TJTucson]

On all my models I will add a carbon around the boom / fuse joint. I had my son help me with pictures for this part. :D This gives the joint strength and prevents failures in this area. You can use this same procedure to repair a broken fuse too. When making a repair I add carbon tape under the carbon fiber for strength.

1. I use 3" wide carbon weave tape for this reinforcement. Measure the diameter of the largest section where the carbon is going to lay.
2. I put tape centered over the spot where I'm going to cut the carbon. This helps cutting and keeps everything square so I can measure for the next cut.
3. After cutting the tape to the largest diameter you will have to cut a "tapper" in the tape so there is equal or no overlap. I usually try to get no overlap.
4. Tape off the fuse and boom about 1/4" on each side of the carbon. Then use 320 grit emory cloth to rough up and remove any mold release on the parts.
5. CAREFULLY remove the tape from the carbon cloth. Leave the tape on the fuse and boom. The tape will grab the carbon cloth and will try to un-weave it. I accept some "fray" on the ends and just live with it. If you know how to prevent this let me know.

[TJTucson]

6. Prepare your work area and take appropriate precautions for your protection :rolleyes: Mix up your favorite epoxy (24 hour set). I use West Systems right now. May be changing later, but am VERY happy with West Systems epoxy.
7. Okay, here's how a "redneck" applies epoxy on small areas without a brush. (A brush would be cleaner, but I'm a messy redneck!) Pour a small amount of epoxy on the cloth and use a flat squeegy to spread it into the cloth.
8. Then I use my "finger brushing" technique to apply epoxy to the boom and fuse area between the tape.
9. Once there is a thin layer of epoxy on the fuse / boom I put the carbon cloth on the joint between the tape.

[TJTucson]

10. Smooth out the carbon on the area and make sure everything lines up the way you want it too.
11. I use my "finger brush" technique to add more epoxy to the cloth once it's in place. Want to make sure the epoxy is completely over the cloth and there are no dry spots.
12. After applying more epoxy, I use a paper towel to "dab" off excess epoxy. My rule of thumb about removing epoxy is simple - if it still looks glossy then there's too much epoxy, remove more. I look for just enough epoxy to fill the gaps between the cloth.
13. Remove the tape from the fuse and boom. Have someone help you with this next part.
14. I have a piece of plastic wrap ready to apply. I "stick" it centered on the joint the wrap it VERY tightly around the carbon / epoxy. If you keep it smooth around the joint you will have a clean smooth joint. I really pull hard on the plastic wrap while my son is pulling up and rotating the boom / fuse.
15. Put it somewhere it can set up without being bumped or moved.

I will finish this later once the epoxy is set. :D

[g.guasch]

;) Nice thread.
I have "built" one Ava et one Avagea.
If some parts of theses "experiences" could help you,
perhaps I'll add post in this discussion.
Have sweet time,
bye,
Gerard.

[TJTucson]

16. After curing, unwrap and inspect. I can see slight ripples where the plastic wrap rippled the resin. I then use 220 wet sanding and then move to 600 wet to get those out.
17. Complete and ready - If you were going to paint it, there may be spots where the resin was really light and did not fill the cloth holes. I will spray with primer and wet sand using 220 again. Spray again and use 220 again. Spray a third time and use 600 to smooth it out. Then put your color layer over that. Should be smooth as glass.

:D

[TJTucson]

If I'm going to perform the operation to correct the mistake of forgetting the tow hook, I need to have more access to the center section. I've traced out a pattern leaving at least 3/8" on all sides minimum AND avoiding the aluminim hold down plates for the wing bolts. Used a dremel with the diamond cutter bit to "rough" cut the opening. Then used my razor and sanding tool to finish off the opening.

Still debating the tow hook install ..... Any suggestions???? :o

[CoastalFlyer]

I don't mean to put a damper on your work, especially since you did such a nice job, but.....every time I've reinforced one area I usually break it just on the other side of the reinforcement. :(

You really did do an excellent job. ;)

[billwolfe]

Tracy,

Forget the tow hook. Put a peg in the wing tip and throw it like a REAL man ! ! ! :-)

--Real Man Bill

[Mark Miller]

Tracy,

Good work on the thread. I have not had a chance to put together real instructions yet for the Trio but hopefully soon.

I am changing site hosts since Friday and something did not go right so my site has been down since Friday. I am working with mu ISP to get things up today.

What I do for the ballast tube is to bond it into the front half of the pod before joining the two halves together. This will angle the ballast tube up so that the tow hook plate just fits under it. If you can get the ballast tube out I will send you a new one if you think you can fit it in there.

I crashed my Trio heavily at the NATS and can say that the pod to boom joint is plenty strong. It was about the only thing not broken. All I did was wrap the front of the boom with Aramid thread for about the first 1/2". I used CA to glue it in place. I just did not want the boom to split at the front but with the kind of cloth it really is not needed. If it were Uni carbon then it would be more of an issue.

I am here to answer any questions you have. Feel free to contact me here or at mark@isthmusmodels.com as soon as I get email working again.

Mark Miller
Isthmus Models

[TJTucson]

Mark - Thanks for the information. To clarify - I am not really intending on adding strength to the boom / pod joint. It's just a easy method of making a "secure" connection between the two materials. A lot of planes simply epoxy the two pieces together with great results. In fact I've had a couple of planes I did that on. But recently I've started using this method and I like it. Call it extra insurance to make sure the joint does not twist or fail with an "unexpected" landing. :D

Additionally, I've had a couple of guys ask me how I did this on planes. Figured this was a great way to describe the method with pictures. As I said earlier, it's also a good method of making boom or fuselage repairs. Maybe I can do a thread about repairs on my next "unexpected" landing .... :o

I think I'm almost committed to cutting away the small area of ballast tube where the tow hook is going to be installed. I can't really see any issues about cutting away the ballast tube where the hook is installed since I'm going to use a ballast bar system, instead of the "shotgun shell" approach. My intention is to fabricate a brass solid bar to the correct target weight (might even make two with different weights) and have the bar machined flat on one side so it will go over the hook assembly inside the tube.

The ballast tube is straight and the lose of the small section should not be an issue with a solid bar. The tube is there to keep the ballast from bumping around inside the fuse ..... right??? :o

Tracy

[Mark Miller]

I see no problem with cutting out a section of the tube as long as the ballast rod will clear the tow hook plate.

Mark

[Mark Miller]

Tracy,

I would start with the CG 83 to 85 mm back from the leading edge of the wing. The tow hook should be about 1/8 to 1/4 in front of that.

Mark

[Mark Miller]

Tracy,

I would reccomend that you wrap the stab mounts with some Aramid thread bonded with CA. This will strengthen the boom to mount joint. Here is a photo.

Mark

[TJTucson]

Mark - Thanks for the information. Hopefully tonight I will be able to take a minute or two to work on it some more. Adding the thread to the stab mounts is a great idea and I'll post some pictures how I do it. :D

Tracy

[Corra]

Hi all , in the website ones www.f3-modellbau.de you can see as I have assembled my TRIO

http://www.f3-modellbau.de/gallery/index.php?list=5

:)

regards

Corra

[BLADEFLYR]

Tracy,

I just bought a new Spider and have to mount servos and also have to install
a tow hook. I'm assuming you machined that trick hook yourself? How can I get
one? Also would like to see how you insatll your servos. I live up here in Chandler,
so I'm sure sooner or later our paths will cross.
Thanks,
Mike Bower

[Mark Miller]

I sell the tow hooks you see in this thread. $15.00 shipped to you.

Mark Miller
Isthmus Models

[TJTucson]

Mike - As Mark says the hook came from Isthmus. I just check his site and it's back up and running again. Check it out here http://www.isthmusmodels.com/

Should be able to post more build later today .... stay tuned! :D

[TJTucson]

In order to get the tow hook in the proper CG range, I worked AutoCAD to plot the hook with a movement range of about 1/2". Using the starting CG from Mark (83 mm from the leading edge) I use this as my most forward CG range and plot the hook about 1/4" forward of that position. That is the forward most position for the tow hook and simply measured back about 1/2". That means the hook will be within a CG range (using 1/8" back from the hook position) of 78 mm - 93 mm. Hopefully that is about as clear as mud :o

Even if the CG floats back during trimming the sailplane to my flying style, I can chase it with the hook and still get "near" vertical launches. :D

I printed my template, taped it to the fuselage and cut away the ballast tube. Then simply screwed it all together. Here's the pictures.

[TJTucson]

Per Mark's recommendation, I have reinforced the horizontal and vertical stab mounts with Spectra thread and CA. I wanted to keep the stabs level on the mounts, so I grooved them where the thread will lay down. Then I CA'd the end down and wrapped around the mounts. After getting the wraps level and snug on the boom, I CA'd the end and in three spots around the boom and mount.

Here's the pictures :p

[TJTucson]

Next I got the control rods installed in the fuselage / boom. Make sure when you get control rods and sleeves that the sleeves are "etched" so what ever glue you will be using will stick to the sleeve. I installed carbon control rods with teflon sleeves. The rudder control rod was pretty straight forward, just had to make sure the movement of the clevis inside the boom cleared the sleeve. In other words the sleeve is buried about 1 to 1-1/2 back inside the end of the boom. The way the rudder is attached I ended up cutting a 45 degree edge from the end of the boom for control arm clearance. I used thin CA with accelator to attached the sleeve to the inside of the boom and fuselage.

The elevator control rod was a little more work. Using my Dremel I cut a slot where the control rod exited the boom (just in front of the mounting bracket). Then it lays against the opposite side of the rudder control rod inside the boom. Again I used CA to attach the sleeve and extended the sleeve about 1/4" outside the slot I cut in the boom. Look at the pictures, I positioned the slot so the control rod would almost center on the area where I will cut in the control horn. It is at an angle and will position the control horn to match that angle.

Be careful not to attach the sleeve to the fuselage completely down the side where it lays. I attached the sleeve about half way down the fuselage, it's only attached about mid way centered on the wing saddle back towards the boom. You need to have this free so you can put the nose section on the wing saddle.

I love my Dremel so much, :p again using it to cut holes where the control rods exit the nose section. I "dry fit" the nose section on the wing saddle to make sure everything comes out "relatively" straight. (Remember - "relatively" straight. Don't worry to much if the control rods cross slightly at the tips.)

Here's the pictures: :D

[TJTucson]

Okay - if you ain't figured it out yet, I plan just about everything (or try to) ;)

That being said I usually use AutoCAD to set the servos, battery, RX and any switches graphically, then use the template to cut away the glass. Here is the way I intend to set the electronics inside the nose.

[Masterpiece]

Hi,

Just wondering if you can dirct me to a website with the "trio". I saw one ages ago but lost it :o . I thought Isthmus Models might sell it, but no luck. Their was a European site as well but I can't remember it :(

Cheers
Glen

[TJTucson]

Glen (and those interested):

Isthmus Models does indeed sell the Trio. That's where this one came from. Check it out here - http://www.isthmusmodels.com/pages/trio.html

The European site is http://www.f5j.de/models.html

More build coming tonight .... I'm quietly sitting here waiting for 5 minute epoxy to set up now .... ;)

[TJTucson]

Using the template I created for the particular servos (HS-5245's) I cut out the nose section for the electronic components. Simply spray 3M Multipurpose Adhesive to the back of the template and stick it to the nose section. Again using the Dremel I cut along the lines. After making the rough cut, I pealed the template off the nose section. If you spray the template lightly then it should not leave any glue behind and will peal off easily. :cool:

Dry fit all the parts and clean up, trim up where necessary to make everything fit nicely. Mount wood blocks under the servos holes where the screws will penetrate. I use 5 minute epoxy to set the wood blocks in the proper place. The toughest part about this is finding a clamp that will hold it in place while it cures. After the epoxy has set up on the last block for about 45 minutes I set the servos in the tray and drill the screw holes. Be careful drilling the holes ..... if you apply too much pressure you can break the fresh bonds between the wood and fiberglass. (It really takes about 12 hours for the epoxy to cure completely) I simply let the weight of the Dremel tool do the work without any added pressure from me. :p

Mount the servos and switch in place and dry fit the nose section to the fuselage making sure the control rods meet properly where the servos are mounted.

[TJTucson]

If everything lines up correctly, then epoxy the nose section to the fuselage. I used 5 minute epoxy to glue the two sections together. First I sanded the inside of the fuselage and the outside of the nose section making sure the epoxy has something to adhere to :D Before epoxying the sections together, wax or use mold release on the inside of the nose cone. I used "Turtle Wax" on my nose cone. This will be your only way to make sure the nose section is positioned correctly on the fuselage. Epoxy the nose section and fuselage, slide together, remove any excess epoxy that gets squashed out, push on the waxed nose cone and tape it in place. Make sure it looks right and is not sticking up or down.

I let mine set for about 30 minutes then carefully removed the nose cone. I'm always scared of epoxying my nose cone to the nose section, even though I gooped it up with the car wax. If I epoxied the nose cone on I'd end up :censored: (Just had to find an excuse to use this new smilie!) Clean up the wax and let it finish curing over night or for about 12 hours. (If you used 5 minute epoxy)

[TJTucson]

Waiting for the nose section to properly cure, I have time to mount the control horns on the rudder and elevator.

The elevator is the tricky one (if there is such a thing). Making sure the control horn lines up with the control rod. I mark the elevator in line where the control rod travels. Cut away the covering and "cut in" the control horn. I used an epoxy mixed with filler to secure the control horn in place.

The rudder was relatively simple. Used the same methods I used on the elevator, making sure it lines up with the control rod. :)

[TJTucson]

Before making the final cuts on the control rods, I stripe back the sleeve to about 1" from the "firewall" or the point where the rod comes thru the fuselage. Then I take the threaded rod adapter and CA it to the graphite control rod. (NOTE: The threaded brass rod adapter has cutting oil still in the hole on the end of it. Use rubbing alcohol to completely clean and remove all oil from the adapter. It takes me about 5 minutes worth of cleaning to get all the oil off and out of the hole. Use a toothpick to shove the alcohol inside the hole and blow the residue out. Oil will prevent your CA from adhering to the brass - possibly failing during some critical phase of flight :eek: :censored: ) I thread the clevis on the adapter after the CA is set and then attach it to the control horn on the servo. At this time the servo does not have to be centered electronically with your radio. In fact don't even bother hooking up the radio yet. Just make sure the servo control horn is centered in the middle of the control swing. You are only going to measure the total length of the control rod.

Make sure the clevis is centered on the threaded adapter. This way you have the same amount of adjustment in both directions. I attached the rudder or elevator (which ever I was hooking up) and then attach a clevis to the control horn on the rudder or elevator. Center the control surface using a piece of tape to hold it in place. Then line up the clevis next to the control rod and mark to the inside where you will be cutting off the excess rod. (see the picture below). Cut away any and all excess rod, sand the end so the clevis slides over the end with slight friction, and then CA the clevis on the rod. I always have about a 1/16" of the control rod sticking out inside the clevis. This is how I insure the rod is complete attached to the clevis.

Once I've completed both the rudder and elevator control rods, I will then hook up the RX to the servos and test movement with my radio. Be sure to test movement with the nose cone in position, making sure the control clevis at the servos do not hit the inside of the nose cone. Make adjustments as necessary. (This particular set up, I had to remove the rubber mounts and brass stiffners AND cut down the servo horns to the last hole to make it all fit and work properly.)

Note: You will notice you will have control throw excessive one direction compared to the opposite direction. This is because the horn on the control surface does not center the clevis pivot point directly in line with the pivot point of the control surface. I compensate at the servo by setting the "center" point opposite of the control horn, giving me mechanically more throw in one direction then in the other. This along with computer radio programing will compensate for the surface horn misalignment. :o

[glidagida]

Hey Masterpiece

The Oz distributor for the Trio is RC Sailplane Australia
www.rc-sailplane.com.au

Good lift
D

[Masterpiece]

Hey Masterpiece

The Oz distributor for the Trio is RC Sailplane Australia
www.rc-sailplane.com.au

Good lift
D

Thanks for that glidagida, I'll have a look at their website asap

Cheers,
Glen

[Mark Miller]

Tracy,

Any progress on the wing?

Mark Miller

[TJTucson]

Sorry guys! I've got my sights set on Visalia and will get back to working on this build after the contest. Charging batteries, double checking connections, making hotel reservations ..... well you know! :D

See ya when I get back next week! :p

Tracy

[TJTucson]

Finally got back to finishing the Trio! :D Next is the weight and balance. Mark recommends setting the initial CG at 83mm or 3.2677" from the leading edge of the wing. So I'm starting there with the balancing. Right now the way I've built the Trio it's REALLY tail heavy, so I have to all about 211 grams to the nose. This brings the CG in the 83mm range.

To bring the CG in range I use the Great Planes CG Machine. Simply tape the nose cone on and I start adding weight until it's balanced. After setting the lead on the nose I measure all the weight with my scale. I like to make the weight as compact as possible and for me that means using lead shot (#8 in fact). I do a lot of wing shooting and sporting clays so I have lots of lead shot around. I measure the proper amount of lead shot to match the lead weights I used to balance. Then I use balloons or the trusted Trojan and fill the nose weight.

Since I want to remove weight after the first flight and during trimming (hopefully I can get it to fly well with out the entire 211 grams in the nose) I only put half of the weight in lead shot. The balance I used lead weights which can be easily removed during the first trimming flights.

One note about lead shot and the balloons / rubbers. I TRIPLE the balloons / rubbers to make sure the lead shot does not end up pouring out if the rubber breaks. I had that happen once, luckly it was not during the flight which could have meant completely throwing the CG out of wack. It makes a heck of a mess if the lead shot starts rolling around inside the fuselage. :censored:

I also ran the antenna on the exterior of the fuse and tied it off on the tail. This is the first time I've done this, usually I tape the antenna to the outside of the boom. Got to try new things to see if they work, eh? ;)

Here's the pictures:

[TJTucson]

I have set up the control throws for the initial flight as follows:

Rudder - 1-1/8" both directions
Elevator - 3/4" both directions
Ailerons - 3/4" up with 75% differential
Flaps - 70 degrees maximum

I am going to experiment on setting up the thermal camber, reflex, launch and cruise settings. Once I get the maiden flight out of the way and get settings perfected, I'll post the exact throw settings for all flight modes.

Sunday is going to be the maiden flight!!

:D

[bobby legue]

TJ,
I wish you all the luck on your maiden journey. It is , at least for me , the biggest rush the first time you let it go. Looks awsome! Let us know how it goes. Also look forward to flying with you again. Im ready to install the radio gear in my Victory. Ive flown it in my head a thousand times. Should be fun to really get it in the air. Also I like your idea about the weight being able to remove some, I usually do yet I was going to balance it as directed in the plan. You saved me a headache, THANKS.
Have fun,
Bob in Prescott