CarreraGTSCS
Jul 19, 2005, 07:42 AM
I'm posting this here in response to an email to me from OhioMike. It's a copy of my reply to his questions.
Mike,
I'm sorry that I missed this email and haven't replied to you sooner.
There's nothing at all wrong with these kits. For the money they are just fine. The hull for the Geo. Washington Class that I built came in 6 pieces: 2 halves each for the bow, center section and stern. Each of the appendages were in 2 parts (rudders and elevators and sail planes) as well as the sail.
The method for building is not all that difficult just a bit different than you might be use to. To cut the parts from the carrier sheet you score a line around the desired part a few times and then snap the plastic by bending it along the scored line. Snaps right apart. There will be a slight lip on the edge of the part now. To remove it you must sand it off. Best done by laying a large sheet of sandpaper on you bench and running you part over it. So instead of holding the sandpaper and moving it you hold the model part and move it back and forth over the sandpaper. What I did to maintain the correct diameter and not sand too much off was to make a few bulkheads out of scrap plastic of the correct diameter for the hull. When everything fit about right I glued the hull halves together by section rather than by left and right sides. In other words, I created a bow section, center section and a stern section instead of a left half and a aright half. In order to align the halves for each section I used scrap plastic that I had put a slight bend in to match the radius of the hull as tabs. Used liquid model glue ( I like the Testors brand) to bond the parts temporarily. Once the parts were glued I put masking tape along the seam line on the outside of the hull parts and than mixed up some 30 minute epoxy and poured it into the hull along the seam. This takes a while as you do one part of the seam at a time, i.e.- top, then bottom then the very bow part. I built up about 1/4" of epoxy in the tip of the bow for strength. When this epoxy is cured you remove the tape and sand the heck out of the seam until you are satisfied with the results.
I hope that this helps. There's a lot more to the description of the build but you should have the general idea from this. It's definitely an experienced builder's kit but the results are much better than some would have you believe. You can spend big bucks on a super museum quality scale model that still needs a radio, motor, batteries, etc or next to nothing for one of John's kits and really have the satisfaction of creating something from a few sheets of plastic.
When I get a chance I'll post some pics of the interior which show the tabs and epoxy as described. The construction is not really difficult. Will you have a perfectly spot on scale model when you are done? Heck no. Will you have something that looks the part? Heck yes. Will you still have some $$ left in your wallet? Maybe, depends on what was in there when you started!
I have a lot of respect for those guys that create real works of art that are so accurate the tiny toilets flush but that's just not my thing. I still see these as toys to play with and just enjoy.
If anyone's interested I'll give more info on building the thing.
Mike
Mike,
I'm sorry that I missed this email and haven't replied to you sooner.
There's nothing at all wrong with these kits. For the money they are just fine. The hull for the Geo. Washington Class that I built came in 6 pieces: 2 halves each for the bow, center section and stern. Each of the appendages were in 2 parts (rudders and elevators and sail planes) as well as the sail.
The method for building is not all that difficult just a bit different than you might be use to. To cut the parts from the carrier sheet you score a line around the desired part a few times and then snap the plastic by bending it along the scored line. Snaps right apart. There will be a slight lip on the edge of the part now. To remove it you must sand it off. Best done by laying a large sheet of sandpaper on you bench and running you part over it. So instead of holding the sandpaper and moving it you hold the model part and move it back and forth over the sandpaper. What I did to maintain the correct diameter and not sand too much off was to make a few bulkheads out of scrap plastic of the correct diameter for the hull. When everything fit about right I glued the hull halves together by section rather than by left and right sides. In other words, I created a bow section, center section and a stern section instead of a left half and a aright half. In order to align the halves for each section I used scrap plastic that I had put a slight bend in to match the radius of the hull as tabs. Used liquid model glue ( I like the Testors brand) to bond the parts temporarily. Once the parts were glued I put masking tape along the seam line on the outside of the hull parts and than mixed up some 30 minute epoxy and poured it into the hull along the seam. This takes a while as you do one part of the seam at a time, i.e.- top, then bottom then the very bow part. I built up about 1/4" of epoxy in the tip of the bow for strength. When this epoxy is cured you remove the tape and sand the heck out of the seam until you are satisfied with the results.
I hope that this helps. There's a lot more to the description of the build but you should have the general idea from this. It's definitely an experienced builder's kit but the results are much better than some would have you believe. You can spend big bucks on a super museum quality scale model that still needs a radio, motor, batteries, etc or next to nothing for one of John's kits and really have the satisfaction of creating something from a few sheets of plastic.
When I get a chance I'll post some pics of the interior which show the tabs and epoxy as described. The construction is not really difficult. Will you have a perfectly spot on scale model when you are done? Heck no. Will you have something that looks the part? Heck yes. Will you still have some $$ left in your wallet? Maybe, depends on what was in there when you started!
I have a lot of respect for those guys that create real works of art that are so accurate the tiny toilets flush but that's just not my thing. I still see these as toys to play with and just enjoy.
If anyone's interested I'll give more info on building the thing.
Mike