Jeti 30-3 BL in Kyosho BladeRunner...

[Far4nugn]

Hey fellas, I've been reading some of the posts here and its gotten my interest re-kindled in boats. Last fall I bought a Bladerunner and ran it stock with the 6-cell car packs and stock motor. I also tried out an Endoplasma in it but my ESC kept kicking me out. I put it away for the winter and just pulled it out of the attic. I was surprised to find that my 30-3 dropped right in there with no funky problems at all.

I'm going to try it out this afternoon on 12X3000NiMh's and stock gearing (1.5:1?) and prop (??). Bathtub testing shows 26A at full throttle. Sounds wicked and pulls hard. I would like to use a larger/steeper prop to get a higher top end. Anyone know what the stock prop is and a good upgrade to pull maybe 30% more current?

I think the motor/batts/esc will pull 40 static ok as long as it unloads at speed, but I fear the batts will get real hot running for extended time periods. There is no air cooling in this thing.

Also, I roughly figure the system would pull about 40A if I remove the gearbox and run it direct, but I'm not sure if the rest of the drive can handle it. Any suggestions?

Thx!

Oh, this testing is to give me confidence in the drive so I can build an

[Far4nugn]

Here are some pics

[Far4nugn]

pic

[Far4nugn]

Thanks for the response. I ran it yesterday with the factory gearbox (as shown above), then went o the shop, fabricated a drive adapter, and removed the gearbox. I have not measured the current draw yet in direct drive setup, but I assume it is about 35A. (LATER MEASURED 32A)

Sure scoots along with this setup, but unfortunately after about 4 minutes of running, the POS lead from the batt pack leaned against the turning drive adapter and ate through the insulation, cutting power about 100' from shore. No breeze, so I had to borrow a canoe to retrieve it. Oh well.

I want to use this drive system in a new hull. I think I can get very good performance from a better design and prop.

Cheers.

[Far4nugn]

PIC

[Far4nugn]

I have upgraded to ball bearing in the prop-shaft support itself, attached to the rudder. The only other support is via the stuffing box (tube).

I'm all ears for a better way, but this seems to be working fine as of yet. I did think about installing another support closer to the motor (just behind the coupler in the pic above).

Great idea about the wire antenna BTW!

[Andrew Gilchrist]

The 30/3 is perfect for the baot - nto too much speed for a prop get an Octura 442 or 445

Please dont nbe termpted to try too much speed in this hull I have one with aMega Midi 3 turn in it - 12 -16 cells it is qyuick for 20 feet but the handling is very poor - if you are happy with the speed and runtime leave it or begin to fill the steps and use larger diameter props to compensate

This is apparently a scale model. The Ice Marine offshore boat ran approx 120mph - that scales at about 27 mph it had a computer controlled water ballasting system and similar controlled twin outboards

SO 27 mph is about it before you relaise that without major modifications you are not going to go much faster

Over the next few weeks Iw ill be doing further modifications to the hull

If you email me I will keep you uptodate on the results

Andrew

[Far4nugn]

Andrew, thanks. Yeah the hull is very flexible plastic. Makes me nervous when I think about all the pull it has in the tub.

I may be close to that 27MPH mark. I dont know exactly how fast it is, but I estimated 25-30. At full throttle, it leans over about 25° from torque, but tracks straight. I've found that chaging the drive angle of the prop varies this a lot.

Also, I'm new to these boat prop sizes. Could you give me the lowdown on Octura's prop sizing... I think the first number is the pitch and the second two are the size in mm? I'm running the stock Kyosho prop, and I think it is a major limitation to top speed because the boat gets to top speed in less than 3 seconds.

I'm building a rigger hull for the same gear. Do you think the drive is too inefficient for a speedy rigger hull?

I dont know exactly where the prop should be in relation to the bottom of the hull, so I'm planning on mounting it in the same relationship as on the Bladerunner. Any suggestions?

Any idea what to expect using the exact same gear in a rigger hull? Will/can it be much faster and what about handling differences?

Thanks again!

[Andrew Gilchrist]

The props are

eg X457 1.4 pitch and 57m diameter

if it was a X457/3 that would be a 3 blade prop

if an X457R it would be a reverse rotation props

the x series are general purpose. the xx00's series tend to be submerged drive props n the lower pitch ie 0900 and 1200 and 1300 and 1400 up are surfacing props.

the stock prop is similar to an Octura 1442. However it flexes and is inefficient try a 42 mm Graupner carbon fibre from Hobby Lobby or DPI

Go to fastelectrics.com and visit the props page you can see and explanation of each of the props and pitch sizes

prevent flex in the sponsons by triangulating them with the deck with 1.5mm ply

use a trim tab to help control torque roll if unsuccesful move the whole prop shaft 1/8" right and extend the prop to 3" behind the boat

The hull is narrow and extremely prone to roll.

Mount the shaft horizontal and its centreline approx 3/8" from the bottom of the vee

also it wont hurt to build up the depth of the sponsons and flatten them to help prevent roll

Thi hull had sophisticated computer controlled ballasting and motor trim systems on the orginal it also rode a lot wetter so it presents an up hill battle - I am developing one now and am determined that I will make it work at higher speeds than 35mph!


BTW Do not build a rigger like the Bladerunner

The motor you have will be able to be used with 16-20 cells depending on you controller in rigger. Avoid problem and go for a known hull from a name manufacturer or get a second hand one - saves a lot of time learning - they are great boats for speed

the rigger will run mid 40's with the right props probably P747

[Far4nugn]

Andrew, wow, thanks for all the info.

I'll get a few real props. I figured the plastic wasnt worth much at these power levels. Is there any use running a 3-blade prop? I ask because without modifying the outdrive on the Bladerunner, you can fit a much larger diameter (maybe 2mm more than stock). Would a 3-blade be a waste of time?

I have a couple 20X1000SCR packs (peak at about 1350) all dressed up but no where to go. I dont think my Jeti 40-3opto can handle 20 cells (its rated up to 16) but I've read posts in the airplane sections of someone running it on 20 without too much trouble. If I get a new controller, what would you suggest (on a budget).

The rigger I'm scratching is not like the Bladerunner. Its a traditional design with the outriggers up front. I'm using the Firefighter .21 plans as a reference.


Thanks again for all your help.

[Andrew Gilchrist]

The Firefighter is a good hull.

I dont know whether the Jeti 40 is up to 20 cell I know they are rated ocnservatively but that is not a voltage level I have tried - the Hacker Master Navy 77 is not budget but is the most economical option for a safe 20 cell controller

The 22/30/3 should kick out a nice low to mid 20000 prop speed under load. Start with an X438 then X440 size X442 so the motor can rev and keep the motor cool and current levels to 40-50 amps.

Setup properly the smallest prop will give you 40mph then work up

A threeblader will not help the Bladerunner much go for a higher pitch eg an Octura X642 or X645. Cut the cav plate it wont affect the boats performance and make a new water pickup from brass tube

[GRacing]

I was surfing through the web and went to this forum!Since i finished my rigger,that has the same characteristics of what you want i will put some photos in order to you see it!The motor was aquired to www.fastelectrics.com,If you have any kind of questions fell fre to ask!My rigger was made based in the Tom Moorehouse plans but some things were modified!It will be powered by an MEGA BL 22/30/2 and 16 2200NiMh cells!Here go the Pic´s

Regard´s from Gerardo Brandão,:D

[pacro]

can you give me a idea of how i can fill in the steps I have a blade ruuner too and am testing it with a outboard

[martin richards]

If you look at Andrew's site, http://www.fastelectrics.com/ , there are all sorts of tips, for modifying Kyosho boats.