Editor
Aug 16, 2000, 12:00 AM
<div align="center"><center>
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<td width="50%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/SBMAho1.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/SBMAho1_small.jpg" alt="SBMAho1.jpg (18365 bytes)" WIDTH="177" HEIGHT="150"></a><br>
(photo from S & B website)</td>
<td width="50%"><big><u><strong>Specifications:</strong></u></big><ul>
<li>Wingspan: 33 inches</li>
<li>Wing Area: 217.25 sq. in.</li>
<li>Length: 24 inches</li>
<li>Flying Weight: 17 oz (8 cells, sp400)</li>
<li>Wing Loading: 11.3 oz/sq.ft.</li>
<li>Airfoil: Modified Eppler 374, modified</li>
<li>Motor: Astro Flight 020, 6V Speed 400</li>
<li>Props: CAM 5x5, APC 6.5x3.7, MA 5.5x4.5</li>
<li>Cells: 7 or 8 500AR's</li>
<li>Speed Control: Castle Creations Pixie 14 (when using Speed 400) <a href="http://www.castlerc.com">http://www.castlerc.com</a> </li>
<li>Radio: Hitec Focus 4, HS-80 servos</li>
<li>Manufacturer: S&B Model Aircraft <a href="http://members.optusnet.com.au/~darryl_smith/">http://members.optusnet.com.au/~darryl_smith/</a>
Sold through Marky's Hobby Shop in the USA <a href="http://www.parkflyers.com/parkflyers/">http://www.parkflyers.com/parkflyers/</a> </li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div>
<blockquote>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Background</big></p>
<blockquote>
<p align="left">I enjoy flying high-performance model aircraft, particularly small
electric racers. As much as I like speed, however, I think Speed 400 combat flying
is really a blast. When I saw this neat little EPP Speed 400/480 size warbird, I
immediately fell in love with it. Most EPP planes, while wonderfully survivable,
suffer from a case of the uglies - rather boxy shapes with little character. The S
& B Focke Wolfe 190, however, offers a very scale looking airplane with the
survivability of EPP - a great combination!</p>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Kit Contents</big></p>
<div align="center"><center>
<table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01703.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01703_small.jpg" alt="DCP01703.jpg (23063 bytes)" WIDTH="206" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01706.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01706_small.jpg" alt="DCP01706.jpg (10010 bytes)" WIDTH="234" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center">The S & B FW-190 arrives in a bag, rather than the
traditional box. Components are shown in the photo on the right. </td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div>
<blockquote>
<p align="left">One of the first things we noticed when the Focke Wolfe arrived was that
this is a very complete kit. The wings are nicely sheeted (although you do have to
supply the leading edge and wing tip wood) - <em>{I ws just informed that S & B now
supplies the wing with spruce leading edges and wing tips already installed and shaped -
Ed}</em>, the foam was already shaped with no sanding was required, the vertical stab was
already glued in, and the elevator was pre-hinged to the stabilizer. The kit also
included all of the hardware you need, except for the wing mounting screws and the
previously mentioned wood pieces for the wing. A few things are left up to your
discretion, but I'll get to those a little further down in the article.</p>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Construction</big></p>
<blockquote>
<p align="left"><strong>Wing</strong></p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
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<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01709.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01709_small.jpg" alt="DCP01709.jpg (11447 bytes)" WIDTH="136" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01828.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01828_small.jpg" alt="DCP01828.jpg (47772 bytes)" WIDTH="98" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01826.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01826_small.jpg" alt="DCP01826.jpg (48212 bytes)" WIDTH="80" HEIGHT="100"></a>
<a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01827.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01827_small.jpg" alt="DCP01827.jpg (23819 bytes)" WIDTH="165" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
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<tr>
<td width="100%">Steps in finishing the wing. The photo on the left shows the wing
as it arrives. Next, glue is applied to the leading edge of the wing. The
next two photos show the triangular leading edge in place, pinned down and drying.
Later, a little foam-friendly CA was used to help in some areas where we didn't get a good
bond joint.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">As you can see in the above photos, the wing comes
pre-sheeted. The first thing I did was to sand all of the wing as per the instructions. I
found that it was especially important to sand the leading edges flush to provide a good
bonding surface for the wing leading edge. The kit does not include the leading edge
pieces (leaving it up to the builder to supply either a balsa or spruce leading
edge). The kit recommends using spruce on the leading edge for durability, but I
opted to go with balsa because it's much easier to sand. I used some triangular
balsa stock that I had on hand. This proved to be a good choice; after the glue
dried I had a relatively simple job sanding the leading edge to shape. The next step
in wing preparation was to sheet the tips with 1/64th plywood. I bonded the
ply to the tip with a combination of foam friendly CA and carpenter's glue (Aliphatic
resin). Pins were used to hold the tip in place while the glue set. Sanding
into shape wasn't quite as easy as with the balsa, but it gave it a nice finish and made
the wing a little more "boink-proof". Finally, both halves of the
wing are epoxied together. No reinforcement is used in the center section, but none
is needed. The wing is quite strong as it is.</p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01831.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01831_small.jpg" alt="DCP01831.jpg (18959 bytes)" WIDTH="151" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01832.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01832_small.jpg" alt="DCP01832.jpg (14926 bytes)" WIDTH="273" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Ailerons are cut out of the wing, following the markings on the wing.
After the aileron is cut away you'll see the aileron cable tube exposed. </td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left"> </p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01843.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01843_small.jpg" alt="DCP01843.jpg (18443 bytes)" WIDTH="127" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">The aileron cable is inserted through the tubing from one aileron side to
the other. We installed this pushrod quick connectors on each end of the cable
to keep it from unraveling and to provide an easy way to join the cable to the control
horns. Further down I'll detail how the aileron servo was installed.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">I opted to mount the wing to the fuselage with a pair of
nylon bolts. The plans pretty much leave it up to you as to how you choose to mount
the wing. In preparing the holes in the wing, I drilled oversized holes where I
intended to drill the wing bolt holes, then filled up the holes with epoxy. After
the epoxy hardened I drilled and tapped the bolt holes (3/64) through the epoxy.
During flight testing I had the back bolt pull through the wing on a landing,
so I glued a piece of plywood over the hole to reinforce it and drilled it out.
In retrospect I think I would have mounted the wing with dowels and rubber
bands. It isn't as scale looking, but if you fly much combat you'll almost
inevitably collide with the ground, where having a rubber-band mounted wing will save a
lot of wing repair effort.</p>
<p align="left"><strong>Fuselage</strong><br>
</p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01707.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01707_small.jpg" alt="DCP01707.jpg (23905 bytes)" WIDTH="183" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center">This photo shows the nicely shaped EPP fuselage of the
FW-190. </td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">The fuselage is already shaped and sanded, saving a
considerable amount of effort. I found that removing material from inside the
fuselage with an X-acto knife was rather tedious, so I decided to go with using a
soldering iron instead. This was a much easier and quicker way to create the
openings for the battery and servos (there's already a tunnel for the motor). For
the wing mounting plates on the fuselage, I marked out the location and cut a recess in
the foam (for the mounting plates I had created) until the plate mounted flush with the
rest of the wing saddle. The wing mounting plates were then joined to the fuselage
with epoxy. </p>
<p align="left"><strong>Tail Surfaces</strong></p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01708.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01708_small.jpg" alt="DCP01708.jpg (24929 bytes)" WIDTH="109" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01857.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01857_small.jpg" alt="DCP01857.jpg (26245 bytes)" WIDTH="120" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01858.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01858_small.jpg" alt="DCP01858.jpg (20563 bytes)" WIDTH="128" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">The left photo shows the stabilizer/elevator assembly next to the
vertical fin (pre-assembled to the fuselage in the kit). The middle and right photos
show the stabilizer assembled to the fin/fuselage.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">The tail surfaces were very simple to assemble. The
elevators are pre-hinged and pre-joined to the stabilizer, and the vertical fin is already
joined to the fuselage. You simply need to push the stab assembly through the slot in the
vertical fin and glue it in place. I used the complex and highly scientific method
of TLAR (that looks about right) for aligning the stab and then simply CA'ed it into place
(this might be a good place to use a little Goop - I later used some fiber-reinforced tape
to strengthen the joint). The only other step I had to do short of covering the components
was to drill the holes for the control horns.</p>
<p align="left"><strong>Radio Installation</strong></p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01860.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01860_small.jpg" alt="DCP01860.jpg (21659 bytes)" WIDTH="129" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01862.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01862_small.jpg" alt="DCP01862.jpg (14917 bytes)" WIDTH="124" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01861.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01861_small.jpg" alt="DCP01861.jpg (35205 bytes)" WIDTH="152" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Servo installation in the fuselage. On the left you can see the
hole we cut out of the fuselage side. The middle photo shows the servo installation.
The right photo shows the whole elevator control setup.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">The first radio component I installed was the elevator
servo and push rod. I debated the best way to install the servo, and in the end decided to
go with just cutting into the foam on the side of the fuselage and letting the foam hold
the servo in. I used Hitec HS-80 servos for the elevator and aileron installations. I
simply marked out the area and then cut into it with a X-acto knife. Because EPP is
elastic it holds the servo very tightly. I created a channel for the servo wire to the
receiver by using a soldering iron to bore out a hole into the bay over the wing.</p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01841.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01841_small.jpg" alt="DCP01841.jpg (18088 bytes)" WIDTH="127" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01845.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01845_small.jpg" alt="DCP01845.jpg (24825 bytes)" WIDTH="95" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01880.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01880_small.jpg" alt="DCP01880.jpg (27364 bytes)" WIDTH="124" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Wing servo installation: On the left you can see the hole I cut in
the wing to allow servo hookup to the aileron cables. The center photo shows the
servo installed, with the servo arm connected to the cable. On the right is a photo
of the aileron cable hookup to the aileron control horn.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">The aileron cable linkage installation was simplified by S
& B's pre-installation of the cable tubing. To cut the slot for the servo arm to
connect with the cable I started at about 1" (25cm) back from the leading edge of the
wing and cut along the top skin of the wing (front to back) for about 0.6"
(15cm). Then I cut away from the center of the wing about 0.25" each way (along
the span). I also had to cut the tubing back somewhat to allow sufficient flex in the
aileron cable. I then threaded the cable through the tubing in each wing panel,
placing a servo-to-pushrod quick connect link around the cable where it passed through the
cutout. There was a problem with the cable becoming unraveled at the ends, but I
solved this problem by using the same quick connect links on the ends. It made
aileron hookup and adjustment very easy as well. There are several possible ways to
mount the servo to the wing, but I opted to make a couple of balsa/ply mounts, glued to
the wing, to which I screwed the servo. This probably takes up more room and is more
complex than some methods, but it does allow easy access to the servo. </p>
<p align="left"><strong>Power System</strong></p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/astro_020.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/astro_020_small.jpg" alt="astro_020.jpg (13839 bytes)" WIDTH="135" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Astro brushless 020, used for most of our flying. This is the sport
wind motor, used on 7 or 8 cells.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">I used an Astro sport-wind brushless 020 for the power
system of the FW190. I liked the extra power. I tried an APC 6.5x3.7, but it didn't
have the speed I was looking for (although it had plenty of thrust) and it drew close to
20 amps at full throttle, so I tried a CAM 5x5. This prop drew about 17 amps, but it
had enough thrust to give the FW-190 a good solid climb and it provided the speed I
wanted. Also, I could throttle back a lot to lengthen the flights. The FW-190 is not
pylon-racer fast, but it is a nice flyer with plenty of performance. I used 7 and 8 cell
500AR battery packs for my flying. For a less expensive setup, you might consider a
480 sized motor on 7 or 8 cells and about a 6x4 sized prop. Later testing showed the
FW-190 would fly well on just a 6V speed 400 on 7-8 cells with a Master Airscrew 5.5x4.5
prop.</p>
<p align="left"><strong>Covering Details</strong></p>
<p align="left">My initial attempts at covering the fuselage with Monokote showed it
didn't stick well to EPP, so I sprayed some 3M77 on the fuselage and tried again.
Much better!. I used some blue tape to cover the Coroplast tail. The wing was easy to
cover with no tricky parts or surprises. I hinged the ailerons with Monokote. I cut
out the decals from the paper sheet provided and stuck them to tape, then to the wing.
Later, we modified the covering job (I never could seem to get the film covering to
stay nice on the fuselage) and went with colored tape. Not scale, but nice
looking and easy to apply. You'll note that the picture at the top of this column is
of the factory plane. Someone who is good with paint could easily duplicate that
finish, but my skills aren't nearly that good!</p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP02023.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP02023_small.jpg" alt="DCP02023.jpg (47468 bytes)" border="2" WIDTH="106" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP02024.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP02024_small.jpg" alt="DCP02024.jpg (43655 bytes)" border="2" WIDTH="163" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Here's how our plane looked after we changed the fuselage to the tape
covering. Not scale, but very visible and easy to do. Nice for combat!
Previously the fuselage was the same color as the wing. We also added some tape
reinforcement in a few areas. The wing servo was removed when this photo was taken
(we were trying a different wing just for grins), which is why the left aileron is
deflected upward. </td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Flying</big></p>
<blockquote>
<p align="left">My first flight was very interesting, to say the least! It was a
very windy day, I had the CG a little aft, and finally, I had the throws as far as they
would go. I launched it and then spent about 15-20 seconds figuring out how to get
this plane to fly straight. After a little while I plopped it down and worked out the
problems, then waited for another day. The second flight was much better than the first
and I was able to feel it out. The FW-190 is not a plane for beginners - you
have to stay on top of it. However, it also has quite a bit of potential. It's
nicely aerobatic and has a good speed range. I found out that this plane is a lot of fun
to fly. The landing was easy: I simply shut the power down and brought it in straight and
level. At about 3 feet above the ground I gave it a little flare and it dropped down
nicely. On the third flight I used only seven cells; this gave less power but still
propelled it very nicely. On that flight I tested it's durability a little bit (not
on purpose, of course!). I brought it in kind of hard on its nose, but the EPP
absorbed the shock and I was able to launch it again as soon as I replaced the battery.
It should be a great plane for combat events, especially if someone were to get a
scale, 704 type event started.</p>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Recommendations</big></p>
<blockquote>
<p align="left">Altogether the FW-190 is a very easy plane to setup, but there are a few
things to note. On the first flight make sure you have the balance at about 1/2" back
from the leading edge. Throws need to be turned down to about 1/4" on the
ailerons and 3/16" on the elevator. If you choose to connect the wing to the fuselage
using bolts, be sure to put a plywood sheet about 1/16" thick so the bolt doesn't rip
out. After some additional flight experience I would recommend using a rubber-band
mounted wing if you plan to fly combat or anticipate rough landings. We later
changed to the rubber-band mounted wing, eliminating problems with wing bolt tear-out.
Otherwise, this is a fun plane to fly - it has nice, scale looks with toughness
normally only associated with rather blocky EPP planes, and there is plenty of performance
potential for someone looking for a tough little fun plane to keep in the back of their
car for flight "opportunities". </p>
</blockquote>
<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" width="80%" bgcolor="#D5EAFF">
<tr>
<td width="50%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/SBMAho1.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/SBMAho1_small.jpg" alt="SBMAho1.jpg (18365 bytes)" WIDTH="177" HEIGHT="150"></a><br>
(photo from S & B website)</td>
<td width="50%"><big><u><strong>Specifications:</strong></u></big><ul>
<li>Wingspan: 33 inches</li>
<li>Wing Area: 217.25 sq. in.</li>
<li>Length: 24 inches</li>
<li>Flying Weight: 17 oz (8 cells, sp400)</li>
<li>Wing Loading: 11.3 oz/sq.ft.</li>
<li>Airfoil: Modified Eppler 374, modified</li>
<li>Motor: Astro Flight 020, 6V Speed 400</li>
<li>Props: CAM 5x5, APC 6.5x3.7, MA 5.5x4.5</li>
<li>Cells: 7 or 8 500AR's</li>
<li>Speed Control: Castle Creations Pixie 14 (when using Speed 400) <a href="http://www.castlerc.com">http://www.castlerc.com</a> </li>
<li>Radio: Hitec Focus 4, HS-80 servos</li>
<li>Manufacturer: S&B Model Aircraft <a href="http://members.optusnet.com.au/~darryl_smith/">http://members.optusnet.com.au/~darryl_smith/</a>
Sold through Marky's Hobby Shop in the USA <a href="http://www.parkflyers.com/parkflyers/">http://www.parkflyers.com/parkflyers/</a> </li>
</ul>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div>
<blockquote>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Background</big></p>
<blockquote>
<p align="left">I enjoy flying high-performance model aircraft, particularly small
electric racers. As much as I like speed, however, I think Speed 400 combat flying
is really a blast. When I saw this neat little EPP Speed 400/480 size warbird, I
immediately fell in love with it. Most EPP planes, while wonderfully survivable,
suffer from a case of the uglies - rather boxy shapes with little character. The S
& B Focke Wolfe 190, however, offers a very scale looking airplane with the
survivability of EPP - a great combination!</p>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Kit Contents</big></p>
<div align="center"><center>
<table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01703.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01703_small.jpg" alt="DCP01703.jpg (23063 bytes)" WIDTH="206" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01706.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01706_small.jpg" alt="DCP01706.jpg (10010 bytes)" WIDTH="234" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center">The S & B FW-190 arrives in a bag, rather than the
traditional box. Components are shown in the photo on the right. </td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div>
<blockquote>
<p align="left">One of the first things we noticed when the Focke Wolfe arrived was that
this is a very complete kit. The wings are nicely sheeted (although you do have to
supply the leading edge and wing tip wood) - <em>{I ws just informed that S & B now
supplies the wing with spruce leading edges and wing tips already installed and shaped -
Ed}</em>, the foam was already shaped with no sanding was required, the vertical stab was
already glued in, and the elevator was pre-hinged to the stabilizer. The kit also
included all of the hardware you need, except for the wing mounting screws and the
previously mentioned wood pieces for the wing. A few things are left up to your
discretion, but I'll get to those a little further down in the article.</p>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Construction</big></p>
<blockquote>
<p align="left"><strong>Wing</strong></p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01709.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01709_small.jpg" alt="DCP01709.jpg (11447 bytes)" WIDTH="136" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01828.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01828_small.jpg" alt="DCP01828.jpg (47772 bytes)" WIDTH="98" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01826.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01826_small.jpg" alt="DCP01826.jpg (48212 bytes)" WIDTH="80" HEIGHT="100"></a>
<a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01827.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01827_small.jpg" alt="DCP01827.jpg (23819 bytes)" WIDTH="165" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Steps in finishing the wing. The photo on the left shows the wing
as it arrives. Next, glue is applied to the leading edge of the wing. The
next two photos show the triangular leading edge in place, pinned down and drying.
Later, a little foam-friendly CA was used to help in some areas where we didn't get a good
bond joint.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">As you can see in the above photos, the wing comes
pre-sheeted. The first thing I did was to sand all of the wing as per the instructions. I
found that it was especially important to sand the leading edges flush to provide a good
bonding surface for the wing leading edge. The kit does not include the leading edge
pieces (leaving it up to the builder to supply either a balsa or spruce leading
edge). The kit recommends using spruce on the leading edge for durability, but I
opted to go with balsa because it's much easier to sand. I used some triangular
balsa stock that I had on hand. This proved to be a good choice; after the glue
dried I had a relatively simple job sanding the leading edge to shape. The next step
in wing preparation was to sheet the tips with 1/64th plywood. I bonded the
ply to the tip with a combination of foam friendly CA and carpenter's glue (Aliphatic
resin). Pins were used to hold the tip in place while the glue set. Sanding
into shape wasn't quite as easy as with the balsa, but it gave it a nice finish and made
the wing a little more "boink-proof". Finally, both halves of the
wing are epoxied together. No reinforcement is used in the center section, but none
is needed. The wing is quite strong as it is.</p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01831.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01831_small.jpg" alt="DCP01831.jpg (18959 bytes)" WIDTH="151" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01832.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01832_small.jpg" alt="DCP01832.jpg (14926 bytes)" WIDTH="273" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Ailerons are cut out of the wing, following the markings on the wing.
After the aileron is cut away you'll see the aileron cable tube exposed. </td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left"> </p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01843.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01843_small.jpg" alt="DCP01843.jpg (18443 bytes)" WIDTH="127" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">The aileron cable is inserted through the tubing from one aileron side to
the other. We installed this pushrod quick connectors on each end of the cable
to keep it from unraveling and to provide an easy way to join the cable to the control
horns. Further down I'll detail how the aileron servo was installed.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">I opted to mount the wing to the fuselage with a pair of
nylon bolts. The plans pretty much leave it up to you as to how you choose to mount
the wing. In preparing the holes in the wing, I drilled oversized holes where I
intended to drill the wing bolt holes, then filled up the holes with epoxy. After
the epoxy hardened I drilled and tapped the bolt holes (3/64) through the epoxy.
During flight testing I had the back bolt pull through the wing on a landing,
so I glued a piece of plywood over the hole to reinforce it and drilled it out.
In retrospect I think I would have mounted the wing with dowels and rubber
bands. It isn't as scale looking, but if you fly much combat you'll almost
inevitably collide with the ground, where having a rubber-band mounted wing will save a
lot of wing repair effort.</p>
<p align="left"><strong>Fuselage</strong><br>
</p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01707.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01707_small.jpg" alt="DCP01707.jpg (23905 bytes)" WIDTH="183" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center">This photo shows the nicely shaped EPP fuselage of the
FW-190. </td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">The fuselage is already shaped and sanded, saving a
considerable amount of effort. I found that removing material from inside the
fuselage with an X-acto knife was rather tedious, so I decided to go with using a
soldering iron instead. This was a much easier and quicker way to create the
openings for the battery and servos (there's already a tunnel for the motor). For
the wing mounting plates on the fuselage, I marked out the location and cut a recess in
the foam (for the mounting plates I had created) until the plate mounted flush with the
rest of the wing saddle. The wing mounting plates were then joined to the fuselage
with epoxy. </p>
<p align="left"><strong>Tail Surfaces</strong></p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01708.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01708_small.jpg" alt="DCP01708.jpg (24929 bytes)" WIDTH="109" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01857.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01857_small.jpg" alt="DCP01857.jpg (26245 bytes)" WIDTH="120" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01858.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01858_small.jpg" alt="DCP01858.jpg (20563 bytes)" WIDTH="128" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">The left photo shows the stabilizer/elevator assembly next to the
vertical fin (pre-assembled to the fuselage in the kit). The middle and right photos
show the stabilizer assembled to the fin/fuselage.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">The tail surfaces were very simple to assemble. The
elevators are pre-hinged and pre-joined to the stabilizer, and the vertical fin is already
joined to the fuselage. You simply need to push the stab assembly through the slot in the
vertical fin and glue it in place. I used the complex and highly scientific method
of TLAR (that looks about right) for aligning the stab and then simply CA'ed it into place
(this might be a good place to use a little Goop - I later used some fiber-reinforced tape
to strengthen the joint). The only other step I had to do short of covering the components
was to drill the holes for the control horns.</p>
<p align="left"><strong>Radio Installation</strong></p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01860.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01860_small.jpg" alt="DCP01860.jpg (21659 bytes)" WIDTH="129" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01862.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01862_small.jpg" alt="DCP01862.jpg (14917 bytes)" WIDTH="124" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01861.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01861_small.jpg" alt="DCP01861.jpg (35205 bytes)" WIDTH="152" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Servo installation in the fuselage. On the left you can see the
hole we cut out of the fuselage side. The middle photo shows the servo installation.
The right photo shows the whole elevator control setup.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">The first radio component I installed was the elevator
servo and push rod. I debated the best way to install the servo, and in the end decided to
go with just cutting into the foam on the side of the fuselage and letting the foam hold
the servo in. I used Hitec HS-80 servos for the elevator and aileron installations. I
simply marked out the area and then cut into it with a X-acto knife. Because EPP is
elastic it holds the servo very tightly. I created a channel for the servo wire to the
receiver by using a soldering iron to bore out a hole into the bay over the wing.</p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01841.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01841_small.jpg" alt="DCP01841.jpg (18088 bytes)" WIDTH="127" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01845.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01845_small.jpg" alt="DCP01845.jpg (24825 bytes)" WIDTH="95" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01880.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP01880_small.jpg" alt="DCP01880.jpg (27364 bytes)" WIDTH="124" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Wing servo installation: On the left you can see the hole I cut in
the wing to allow servo hookup to the aileron cables. The center photo shows the
servo installed, with the servo arm connected to the cable. On the right is a photo
of the aileron cable hookup to the aileron control horn.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">The aileron cable linkage installation was simplified by S
& B's pre-installation of the cable tubing. To cut the slot for the servo arm to
connect with the cable I started at about 1" (25cm) back from the leading edge of the
wing and cut along the top skin of the wing (front to back) for about 0.6"
(15cm). Then I cut away from the center of the wing about 0.25" each way (along
the span). I also had to cut the tubing back somewhat to allow sufficient flex in the
aileron cable. I then threaded the cable through the tubing in each wing panel,
placing a servo-to-pushrod quick connect link around the cable where it passed through the
cutout. There was a problem with the cable becoming unraveled at the ends, but I
solved this problem by using the same quick connect links on the ends. It made
aileron hookup and adjustment very easy as well. There are several possible ways to
mount the servo to the wing, but I opted to make a couple of balsa/ply mounts, glued to
the wing, to which I screwed the servo. This probably takes up more room and is more
complex than some methods, but it does allow easy access to the servo. </p>
<p align="left"><strong>Power System</strong></p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/astro_020.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/astro_020_small.jpg" alt="astro_020.jpg (13839 bytes)" WIDTH="135" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Astro brushless 020, used for most of our flying. This is the sport
wind motor, used on 7 or 8 cells.</td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div><p align="left">I used an Astro sport-wind brushless 020 for the power
system of the FW190. I liked the extra power. I tried an APC 6.5x3.7, but it didn't
have the speed I was looking for (although it had plenty of thrust) and it drew close to
20 amps at full throttle, so I tried a CAM 5x5. This prop drew about 17 amps, but it
had enough thrust to give the FW-190 a good solid climb and it provided the speed I
wanted. Also, I could throttle back a lot to lengthen the flights. The FW-190 is not
pylon-racer fast, but it is a nice flyer with plenty of performance. I used 7 and 8 cell
500AR battery packs for my flying. For a less expensive setup, you might consider a
480 sized motor on 7 or 8 cells and about a 6x4 sized prop. Later testing showed the
FW-190 would fly well on just a 6V speed 400 on 7-8 cells with a Master Airscrew 5.5x4.5
prop.</p>
<p align="left"><strong>Covering Details</strong></p>
<p align="left">My initial attempts at covering the fuselage with Monokote showed it
didn't stick well to EPP, so I sprayed some 3M77 on the fuselage and tried again.
Much better!. I used some blue tape to cover the Coroplast tail. The wing was easy to
cover with no tricky parts or surprises. I hinged the ailerons with Monokote. I cut
out the decals from the paper sheet provided and stuck them to tape, then to the wing.
Later, we modified the covering job (I never could seem to get the film covering to
stay nice on the fuselage) and went with colored tape. Not scale, but nice
looking and easy to apply. You'll note that the picture at the top of this column is
of the factory plane. Someone who is good with paint could easily duplicate that
finish, but my skills aren't nearly that good!</p>
<div align="center"><center><table border="1" width="80%" bgcolor="#E6E6E6">
<tr>
<td width="100%"><p align="center"><a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP02023.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP02023_small.jpg" alt="DCP02023.jpg (47468 bytes)" border="2" WIDTH="106" HEIGHT="100"></a> <a href="/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP02024.jpg"><img src="http://static.rcgroups.com/articles/ezonemag/2000/aug/foam190/DCP02024_small.jpg" alt="DCP02024.jpg (43655 bytes)" border="2" WIDTH="163" HEIGHT="100"></a></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="100%">Here's how our plane looked after we changed the fuselage to the tape
covering. Not scale, but very visible and easy to do. Nice for combat!
Previously the fuselage was the same color as the wing. We also added some tape
reinforcement in a few areas. The wing servo was removed when this photo was taken
(we were trying a different wing just for grins), which is why the left aileron is
deflected upward. </td>
</tr>
</table>
</center></div>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Flying</big></p>
<blockquote>
<p align="left">My first flight was very interesting, to say the least! It was a
very windy day, I had the CG a little aft, and finally, I had the throws as far as they
would go. I launched it and then spent about 15-20 seconds figuring out how to get
this plane to fly straight. After a little while I plopped it down and worked out the
problems, then waited for another day. The second flight was much better than the first
and I was able to feel it out. The FW-190 is not a plane for beginners - you
have to stay on top of it. However, it also has quite a bit of potential. It's
nicely aerobatic and has a good speed range. I found out that this plane is a lot of fun
to fly. The landing was easy: I simply shut the power down and brought it in straight and
level. At about 3 feet above the ground I gave it a little flare and it dropped down
nicely. On the third flight I used only seven cells; this gave less power but still
propelled it very nicely. On that flight I tested it's durability a little bit (not
on purpose, of course!). I brought it in kind of hard on its nose, but the EPP
absorbed the shock and I was able to launch it again as soon as I replaced the battery.
It should be a great plane for combat events, especially if someone were to get a
scale, 704 type event started.</p>
</blockquote>
<p align="left"><big>Recommendations</big></p>
<blockquote>
<p align="left">Altogether the FW-190 is a very easy plane to setup, but there are a few
things to note. On the first flight make sure you have the balance at about 1/2" back
from the leading edge. Throws need to be turned down to about 1/4" on the
ailerons and 3/16" on the elevator. If you choose to connect the wing to the fuselage
using bolts, be sure to put a plywood sheet about 1/16" thick so the bolt doesn't rip
out. After some additional flight experience I would recommend using a rubber-band
mounted wing if you plan to fly combat or anticipate rough landings. We later
changed to the rubber-band mounted wing, eliminating problems with wing bolt tear-out.
Otherwise, this is a fun plane to fly - it has nice, scale looks with toughness
normally only associated with rather blocky EPP planes, and there is plenty of performance
potential for someone looking for a tough little fun plane to keep in the back of their
car for flight "opportunities". </p>
</blockquote>