Question about SG and threaded shafts

[\Doc\]

Hello all,

Gunna replace the motor in my Megatech Gladiator and am wondering if I
should go with a pilot (SG) or full threaded shaft and use my existing
clutch nut for the clutch bell.

Here's the thing, the SG shaft is going to be too long and I'll need to cut
it. Are SG shafts internally threaded from the end where the screw goes in
to hold the clutch bell on clear back to the externally threaded portion?

Thanks,

Doc

[Justin Mahn]

"Doc" wrote:
> Hello all,
>
> Gunna replace the motor in my Megatech Gladiator and am wondering if I
> should go with a pilot (SG) or full threaded shaft and use my existing
> clutch nut for the clutch bell.
>
> Here's the thing, the SG shaft is going to be too long and I'll need to cut
> it. Are SG shafts internally threaded from the end where the screw goes in
> to hold the clutch bell on clear back to the externally threaded portion?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Doc
>
>
>
Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That
way, you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing the shaft
style usually ends up in replacing the whole clutch bell assembly.

[\Doc\]

"Justin Mahn" <gabril@cox.net> wrote in message
news:YJ1fe.17892$gc6.11111@okepread04...

> Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That way,
> you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing the shaft style
> usually ends up in replacing the whole clutch bell assembly.

Yeah, I know it would be easier, but the motors with the SG shaft have more
HP for the same $$$. The way I see it, I could even use an SG-style motor
and just lop off the entire pilot portion of the shaft, essentially making
it a short, threaded crank. If I use the brass crank washer first, then the
flywheel, then use my existing clutch nut to hold the flywheel on, I can do
away with the entire smooth portion of the crank. As long as the threaded
section of the shaft matches the internal threads of the clutch nut I'll be
in good shape I think?

Doc

[Scott Harless]

>As long as the threaded section of the shaft matches the internal threads
>of the clutch nut I'll be in good shape I think?

Verify the threads are the same BEFORE cutting the pilot shaft
off of the new motor.<G>
Also be sure the motor mounts, exhaust, & throttle linkage will
work on a different engine. The throttle/brake linkage can be
rigged, but the price of the motor swap might not be worth it if
you need a new exhaust & motor mounts...



Scott
--
1:8 Mugen Sting, Mugen MBX-XR, GS Storm Pro
1:10 Losi XXX-NT, OFNA Nitro OB4, Serpent Impulse, Losi XXX-KE,
OFNA OB4 International

[Justin Mahn]

"Doc" wrote:
> "Justin Mahn" <gabril@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:YJ1fe.17892$gc6.11111@okepread04...
>
>
>>Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That way,
>>you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing the shaft style
>>usually ends up in replacing the whole clutch bell assembly.
>
>
> Yeah, I know it would be easier, but the motors with the SG shaft have more
> HP for the same $$$. The way I see it, I could even use an SG-style motor
> and just lop off the entire pilot portion of the shaft, essentially making
> it a short, threaded crank. If I use the brass crank washer first, then the
> flywheel, then use my existing clutch nut to hold the flywheel on, I can do
> away with the entire smooth portion of the crank. As long as the threaded
> section of the shaft matches the internal threads of the clutch nut I'll be
> in good shape I think?
>
> Doc
>

The extra Horsepower comes from having a balanced clutch shaft, as well
as saving weight from extra parts. If you cut it off and then screw on
a seperate shaft, you'll just negate the horsepower you thought you
would have.


Just a thought.

Justin

[\Doc\]

"Justin Mahn" <gabril@cox.net> wrote in message
news:MQafe.24432$gc6.244@okepread04...
> "Doc" wrote:
>> "Justin Mahn" <gabril@cox.net> wrote in message
>> news:YJ1fe.17892$gc6.11111@okepread04...
>>
>>
>>>Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That
>>>way, you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing the shaft
>>>style usually ends up in replacing the whole clutch bell assembly.
>>
>>
>> Yeah, I know it would be easier, but the motors with the SG shaft have
>> more HP for the same $$$. The way I see it, I could even use an SG-style
>> motor and just lop off the entire pilot portion of the shaft, essentially
>> making it a short, threaded crank. If I use the brass crank washer
>> first, then the flywheel, then use my existing clutch nut to hold the
>> flywheel on, I can do away with the entire smooth portion of the crank.
>> As long as the threaded section of the shaft matches the internal threads
>> of the clutch nut I'll be in good shape I think?
>>
>> Doc
>>
>
> The extra Horsepower comes from having a balanced clutch shaft, as well as
> saving weight from extra parts. If you cut it off and then screw on a
> seperate shaft, you'll just negate the horsepower you thought you would
> have.
>
>
> Just a thought.
>
> Justin

A very good point my man!

Found out why the M16's won't run. Took both of em' apart and found that
the sleeves were worn and the pistons were torched. The used motor I can
understand as it came with all the other stuff I bought and had no idea if
it worked anyways. The new one was suprising, as it was worse looking
inside than the older one. Little pieces of piston dust everywhere. Was
using Trinity 20/12 and 20/18, broke in properly, never run that hard, maybe
4 quarts thru. Must have been defective.

Doc

[Justin Mahn]

"Doc" wrote:
> "Justin Mahn" <gabril@cox.net> wrote in message
> news:MQafe.24432$gc6.244@okepread04...
>
>>"Doc" wrote:
>>
>>>"Justin Mahn" <gabril@cox.net> wrote in message
>>>news:YJ1fe.17892$gc6.11111@okepread04...
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That
>>>>way, you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing the shaft
>>>>style usually ends up in replacing the whole clutch bell assembly.
>>>
>>>
>>>Yeah, I know it would be easier, but the motors with the SG shaft have
>>>more HP for the same $$$. The way I see it, I could even use an SG-style
>>>motor and just lop off the entire pilot portion of the shaft, essentially
>>>making it a short, threaded crank. If I use the brass crank washer
>>>first, then the flywheel, then use my existing clutch nut to hold the
>>>flywheel on, I can do away with the entire smooth portion of the crank.
>>>As long as the threaded section of the shaft matches the internal threads
>>>of the clutch nut I'll be in good shape I think?
>>>
>>>Doc
>>>
>>
>>The extra Horsepower comes from having a balanced clutch shaft, as well as
>>saving weight from extra parts. If you cut it off and then screw on a
>>seperate shaft, you'll just negate the horsepower you thought you would
>>have.
>>
>>
>>Just a thought.
>>
>>Justin
>
>
> A very good point my man!
>
> Found out why the M16's won't run. Took both of em' apart and found that
> the sleeves were worn and the pistons were torched. The used motor I can
> understand as it came with all the other stuff I bought and had no idea if
> it worked anyways. The new one was suprising, as it was worse looking
> inside than the older one. Little pieces of piston dust everywhere. Was
> using Trinity 20/12 and 20/18, broke in properly, never run that hard, maybe
> 4 quarts thru. Must have been defective.
>
> Doc
>
>
I feel for ya! In the past, I've had crank bearings come apart and do
that. Also theres a round "G" spring retaining the pin in the piston,
and that's come out a time or two.

Has anyone ever figured out how to change air filters w/o droping dirt
into the carb? I was having trouble with that yesterday. I hope my
trusty old TRX Pro .15 isn't torched.

On the other hand, it gave me a chance to try out the new .12 CVR. Sweet!

[sbb78247]

Justin Mahn wrote:
> "Doc" wrote:
>> "Justin Mahn" <gabril@cox.net> wrote in message
>> news:MQafe.24432$gc6.244@okepread04...
>>
>>> "Doc" wrote:
>>>
>>>> "Justin Mahn" <gabril@cox.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:YJ1fe.17892$gc6.11111@okepread04...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> Easiest thing to do would be direct replacement on shaft style. That
>>>>> way, you know all your old clutch parts will work. Changing
>>>>> the shaft style usually ends up in replacing the whole clutch
>>>>> bell assembly.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yeah, I know it would be easier, but the motors with the SG shaft
>>>> have more HP for the same $$$. The way I see it, I could even use
>>>> an SG-style motor and just lop off the entire pilot portion of the
>>>> shaft, essentially making it a short, threaded crank. If I use
>>>> the brass crank washer first, then the flywheel, then use my
>>>> existing clutch nut to hold the flywheel on, I can do away with
>>>> the entire smooth portion of the crank. As long as the threaded
>>>> section of the shaft matches the internal threads of the clutch
>>>> nut I'll be in good shape I think? Doc
>>>>
>>>
>>> The extra Horsepower comes from having a balanced clutch shaft, as
>>> well as saving weight from extra parts. If you cut it off and then
>>> screw on a seperate shaft, you'll just negate the horsepower you
>>> thought you would have.
>>>
>>>
>>> Just a thought.
>>>
>>> Justin
>>
>>
>> A very good point my man!
>>
>> Found out why the M16's won't run. Took both of em' apart and found
>> that the sleeves were worn and the pistons were torched. The used
>> motor I can understand as it came with all the other stuff I bought
>> and had no idea if it worked anyways. The new one was suprising, as
>> it was worse looking inside than the older one. Little pieces of
>> piston dust everywhere. Was using Trinity 20/12 and 20/18, broke in
>> properly, never run that hard, maybe 4 quarts thru. Must have been
>> defective. Doc
>>
>>
> I feel for ya! In the past, I've had crank bearings come apart and do
> that. Also theres a round "G" spring retaining the pin in the piston,
> and that's come out a time or two.
>
> Has anyone ever figured out how to change air filters w/o droping dirt
> into the carb? I was having trouble with that yesterday. I hope my
> trusty old TRX Pro .15 isn't torched.
>
> On the other hand, it gave me a chance to try out the new .12 CVR. Sweet!

That CV-R ought to smoke the TRX like a pack of Cools! In the nitro class
bracket races, the CV-Rs would usuall only have competition from a few Rossi
engines in the .15 and below.

[the_atomic_punk]

Never cut the shaft! Off balancing your motor can cause serious bearing
failure.I used OFNA part # 10098 for my nut on a clutch mod for
standard crank mod.Traxxas,ofna,serpent,mugen,hpi,ect...

[the_atomic_punk]

Also the shaft is never too long! Use fiber washers and or a extra
bearing.Never cut the shaft! Never! If the fly wheel does not fit use a
reamer.Also with a SG shaft you can get away from the Grip spacer.This
allows for the length.Reaming out the flywheel with a tapered reamer
does away with the grip spacer.
Hope this helps!
Atom

[M78Ultra]

Simple..hold your rc upside down...just as you should when removing a
glowplug.

"Justin Mahn" <justinmahn@cox.net> wrote in message
news:chufe.32956$gc6.21340@okepread04...
Has anyone ever figured out how to change air filters w/o droping dirt
into the carb?