ASH 26 servo plugs

[svoguy2000]

I am installing plugs in the wings of my ASH so I wont have to deal with servo wires. My question is, can I run the power wires for the servos in the wing directly from the battery and only use the signal wires from the receiver? There are three servos in each wing so I was just thinking of putting all the power wires on one plug and all the signal wires on another.

[cwchen]

If you're running the power direct from the battery, you'll still need to run a ground as well as the signal wire to the Rx, otherwsie, it would not be a complete circuit = no signal.

So, yes, you can put all the power wires on one plug and all the signal on another, but, the power wires would have to lead back to the Rx, not the battery pack.

Alternatively, you can run just one set of power wires for all 3 servos, leaving you with only 5 wires in each wing.

[bie]

Hi,

one thought: If you put all the plus- and minus-wires together in your 2/3/4-servo-wing, you give up redundancy! One broken wire or soldered connection (e. g. plug/wire) - and no servo will work in the wing.

I prefer to have each servo with its own power-supply-connection.

Regards,

Andy

[Duke58]

Take care never to remove the signal wire from the servo with the power still applied, this can burn out the fet's in some servos . With power and signal coming from different locations this is posible.

Earl

[Landi]

I tend to agree with Bee

Run all teh wires and use sub-d's 9 or 15 pols according to your requirements.

This will give you redundancy. Its a lot of welding to do but its worth the time.

Better safe than sorry.


Saludos,
Landi (http://www.xl-sailplanes.com)

[MTT]

I have used the method of putting all the neg and pos wires on a single pin each on several planes, never had a problem.

Bie has a point , if you loose that single pos or neg contact, the whole wing is dead.
However, on my ships, I always install the plud and the socket ( sub-D connectors, or the green Multiplex 6-pin connectors) of the wing connector fixed, so that the electrical connection is made automatically when plugging in the wings. This way, the plugs and their soldering joints are never moved or manipulated, thus making the possibility of a failure very remote.

I have used this setup for years, in several planes, and never had a single problem with it.

Michael

[portfoxdesign]

MTT
Have you any articles or other info on this method, you have my interest now!

Cheers

[bie]

Hi,

Michael has a point, that in the case of everything is fixed (e.g. both the plug and the socket), the chance of somethings got broken is very small.

On the other side: I prefer to have only the socket fixed in the root rib of the wing. The wires and the plug that come from the RX aren’t fixed in the fuse.

I admit, that this isn’t as convenient as Michael’s method.

But this way the connection isn’t cut in the case, that the wing is drawn a little away from the fuse, which I happened to experience more than one time because of mid airs or sheer negligance by myself: Last year it saved my beloved 2-meter-all-glas-B4 (by Schwabbauer) because I forgot to renew the (ripped clear) tape that kept the wing to the fuse after a rough landing at Hahnenmoos / Switzerland (I was destracted by another pilot - but in any case: It was of course my fault!). So I got the B4 in the air again and recognized immediately afterwards, that the right wing had tried to get away from the fuse (there was a 2 cm gap). Because rudder, elevator and ailerons all worked I was happy enough to get the B4 back to the slope and land her without any problems and without any (additional :D ) damage.

So all in all: One can do it as he likes - there are always points to do it this way or the other... ;)

[Landi]

Hi @ all



On the other side: I prefer to have only the socket fixed in the root rib of the wing. The wires and the plug that come from the RX aren’t fixed in the fuse.



I use the same method as Andy described above. I do not feel confortable having both plugs on a fixed position. In case of a wing separation having on plug loose and some spare wire the wing can move a little and I will still have contact therefore not loosing control on one side of the plane.

It does not mean that one method is better than the other. I just like to play it safe.


Saludos,
Landi

[MTT]

@portfoxdesign :
Here's a copy of the corresponding part in the Multiplex Alpina's building instructions :

http://www.mkrusa.com/images/miscellaneous/scan.bmphttp://www.mkrusa.com/images/miscellaneous/scan0002.bmp

They recommend this system in their Alpina, ASH26, and DG600 evo, and I suppose, in their Flamingo/Kranich sailplanes as well.


Throughout my "modeling career" I have built the Alpina, ASH, and DG600, as well as other sailplanes, and as mentioned before, I have never had any problems.
In respect to the possible separation of the wing at the root and resulting loss of signal to the servos : On the Multiplex sailplanes, the MultiLock system is used to retain the wings, and the wings will not separate during flight.
Of course, if you use the setup as described by bie and Landi, you have an added marhin of safety, in the event that a wing should separate a little bit from the fuselage, but IMHO this little added safety is offset by the possibility of a soldering joint at the plug breaking due to the constant handling of the plugs.

In the end it comes down to personal preferences.

Michael

[Landi]

@ MTT


IMHO this little added safety is offset by the possibility of a soldering joint at the plug breaking due to the constant handling of the plugs.

In the end it comes down to personal preferences.

Michael

you are completly right if you mention the soldering joints to come loose due to handling.... :rolleyes: ...

But there is a little trick to it.

This is the way I do it: Once all the wires are welded on the Sub d, I put a piece of mascing tape around the plug making sure the tape sticks tight to the plug and the other end of the tape is located at least a 1/4 inch above the welds. Once this is done you prepare a certain quantity of epoxy diluted in a small quantity of Isoporopyl alchool so it will flow better. Put you plugs upside down and let the epoxy flow slowly in to the tape mold envloving all the welds and calbes. Once this cured you will have a very strong bond and no visible welds to be moved arround only the flexible calbe all bundled together. Another advantage of this method is that the welds will never come in touch avoiding this way a possibility of a short cirquit.

I have used this method in several ships such as my Schueler DG 505 (http://www.xl-sailplanes.com), my Nimbus, my ASk18 and others and never had a problem. The epoxy plug will outlive the plane.


Saludos,

Landi

[Duke58]

I use a variation of the previous methods, I secure the wing plug and leave the fuselage socket on a pigtail with the wires potted in Goop/cloth tape.

Earl

[Landi]

Hi duke

Goop is a great stuff but not for this application.

While goop cures it releases chemicals that might oxidate the conections.


Saludos,
Landi

[Duke58]

Dinodat! OK silicone it is.

Thanks
Earl

[Duke58]

My favorite plug-ins

[portfoxdesign]

thanks MTT, lots of good stuff here.
Duke58, the connectors that you have on that red and yellow machine look like PC serial interfaces. Is that right?
A few people have mentioned to me, use the dean's connectors. But i havent ventured there just yet.

S

[Duke58]

Right Portfox , they are db9's slightly modified, it's a pain to get them installed just right but hey it's an ARF so what's a little more building time . The ease of assembly makes it all worthwhile. I was going for the same sort of thing with the ash26 but crawling into the fuselage to mount the sockets became too much trouble, I prefer the pigtail method now anyway.

Earl

[portfoxdesign]

i have a heap of those laying around (old PC parts) would it be wise to use those?

[Duke58]

Sure! scrounge where ever you can:)

Earl

[Landi]

i have a heap of those laying around (old PC parts) would it be wise to use those?

Why use old parts. Go to Radio Shack or any PC store and buy the conectors brand new for about $4 each. Make sure you have a soldering iron with a fine tip it gets tight if you have to weld 9 cables on those Sub-D's

Saludos,
Landi

[snolord1]

i would have that problem too,...wait,i'm still waiting for the plane i bought from you scammer.
is that how you fund new projects?by scamming other good peoples' money?
:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:

[Landi]

i would have that problem too,...wait,i'm still waiting for the plane i bought from you scammer.
is that how you fund new projects?by scamming other good peoples' money?
:mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad: :mad:


To whom are you refering to???

[Ib Jensen]

I have been using hot melt glue instead of Epoxy to secure and insulate the connectors. This has the advantage of being removable and repairable. I can actually solder throught the hot melt without problems using a temperature controlled soldering iron.

I have Deans connectors on my ASW-22. They are glued into the wings and free in the fuselage. I was planning on gluing the connector into the fuselage, but this thread makes me consider using a box structure to house the fuselage connector in such a way that the wing will automatically plug in when the wing is attached, but if the wing pulls away, the connector will pull out of the fuse and not break the circuit. This would be the best compromise, with automatic connection and a safety margin in case of pull away.

Ib

[Smashed_Toad]

The "person" who started this thred is also selling this plane as a ready to fly in the for sale forum. Sort of hard to be selling it ready to fly why your still building it? Also there are reports he has been selling planes and not shipping them after receiving payment. Heads up!