Big Bird build question

[jmfitzgerald]

I just picked up a Bid Bird kit from Skybench right before they closed for a bit and now looking for a bit of guidance to get this started. i have read the manual many time over and it does not seem to match the plans... On the plans Ribs 1,2, and 3 are under the center sheeting section, but from the pictures in the back of the manual and what makes a bit more sense from the writing, there is a rib between 1 and 2, and between 2 and 3. making 5 ribs under the center sheetiing section, and if you renumber all the ribs to include the 2 extra, that changes which rib to prop up to get the correct angle when gluing the tip panels... so renumber or not, 5 ribs, or 3? I emailed Ray about this, and all he said is that i was on the wrong track and can't answer emails until June 6th. so to anyone out there that has built a Big Bird, any help? I'm itchen to get started. Thanks

Oh yeah, there are enough ribs in the kit to add these... but. the rib that now would become rib 2, (if adding the the ribs between 1 and 2, 2 and 3) would cross the brass wing joiner tube. that is how all this started... if i should put all five ribs under that center sheeting section, do i have to find out exactly where that joiner tube intersects that rib, or can i just cut out the part between spars and use the microballon/epoxy mixtre to fill it all in as per the plans... any thoughts?

[Hawksnest]

[U] snip[/U , and if you renumber all the ribs to include the 2 extra, that changes which rib to prop up to get the correct angle when gluing the tip panels... so renumber or not, 5 ribs, or 3? I emailed Ray about this, and all he said is that i was on the wrong track and can't answer emails until June 6th. so to anyone out there that has built a Big Bird, any help? I'm itchen to get started. Thanks

There can only be one outside end rib on the inboard panel, and the first rib on the tip panel, that get tilted a bit for polyhedral, other than the number 1 rib. If you look at the ribs, the ones that go in the center, are smooth to allow clearance for the sheeting, the rest have only laser cut 1/16" indents for the LE & TE sheeting. There are a total of 3 ribs that fit the smooth description for each side. The plywood root rib is not put on the root until the wing is completed. The balsa #1 rib has the laser cut hole for the wingrod. I have never looked at Ray's instructions, as I mostly build from his plans. Put down the LE, TE, and center sheeting, place the bottom spar, and set ribs down paying attention to the ends of the spar so they line up with the spar on the plans. Place all ribs onto the TE & spar/LE sheeting, and just glue 1/2" ahead & behind the spar with thin CA, putting the two end ribs down first to locate the spar. I extend the spar lines out from each end on the plans, so as to locate them for the end ribs. Bill G.

[Hawksnest]

Oh yeah, there are enough ribs in the kit to add these... but. the rib that now would become rib 2, (if adding the the ribs between 1 and 2, 2 and 3) would cross the brass wing joiner tube. that is how all this started... if i should put all five ribs under that center sheeting section, do i have to find out exactly where that joiner tube intersects that rib, or can i just cut out the part between spars and use the microballon/epoxy mixtre to fill it all in as per the plans... any thoughts?

You do not have enough ribs to add extra where you think they should go. You only have enough ribs for the center section, and the tips. There are no extra ribs in the kit. Bill G.
3 RIBS PER SIDE UNDER THE SHEETING. Build from the plans.

[Hawksnest]

Oh yeah, there are enough ribs in the kit to add these... but. the rib that now would become rib 2, (if adding the the ribs between 1 and 2, 2 and 3) would cross the brass wing joiner tube. that is how all this started... if i should put all five ribs under that center sheeting section, do i have to find out exactly where that joiner tube intersects that rib, or can i just cut out the part between spars and use the microballon/epoxy mixtre to fill it all in as per the plans... any thoughts?

Maybe I should clear this up. Do you have the XL (extra long) BB wing kit? If so, then maybe I am all wet, because it involves building two extra bays onto the inboard panels to get the 110" span. If not, and you have the standard kit, then use only 3 ribs per side under the sheeting. Bill G.

[jmfitzgerald]

Yes, i understand, but i have 5 ribs that are smooth with no indents to go between sheeting and only one of them has the cut out for the wingrod. this is where i am getting confused. i have the parts, i saw the pictures in the back, but the plans do not show this and ray said i was on the wrong track??? should i just pretend these extra ribs did not come with the kit??? weird!

no, just the 100" big bird.

[Hawksnest]

Yes, i understand, but i have 5 ribs that are smooth with no indents to go between sheeting and only one of them has the cut out for the wingrod. this is where i am getting confused. i have the parts, i saw the pictures in the back, but the plans do not show this and ray said i was on the wrong track??? should i just pretend these extra ribs did not come with the kit??? weird!

no, just the 100" big bird.

There are only 3 ribs under the sheeting each side on the standard BB. The end rib is the only one with the wingrod hole. Bill G.

[jmfitzgerald]

Got another question... i'm looking for ideas on joining the 2 wing halfs at the fuse... what are some good ideas? i'm thinking about putting a piece of threaded rod in the wing that will go into the fuse about 3/8" and use a "wing" nut to fasten the wing to the fuse... or what about a hook in each wing that goes through the fuse, and use a rubber band to pull the 2 wing halfs together. for either of these ideas, is one point good enough? i'm also open for all sugestions that work.

Thanks!

[varoman1]

I installed an eyehook screw in eyelet in each wing root. When building the wing, I installed 1/8 ply approximately 1 inch behind the wing rod to receive the eyelet. The wing halves are held together with a spring that I picked up at Sears hardware. The spring is approximately 3/4 inch closed. I hook it into each eyelet. My Big Bird has a hatch that I can flip open to install or remove the spring. Buy a couple springs because you will lose one for sure and you only need one in the fuselage. Works well!

[wingsnapper]

I think Ray says to just tape the roots on. I'm sure there are diffent ways to do it though. JS