RGinCanada
Mar 30, 2005, 12:28 PM
Well, I've finally had one of my rare original ideas (as opposed to "thiefing" from all the great minds here).
In order to remove the prop/prop shaft from my boat, I need to be able to remove the rudder, as I can't feed the shaft through the boat. This is a problem because this boat has a skeg, and the rudder linkage is far removed from the cabin opening in the deck. The skeg prevents the rudder from dropping down.
On my last boat I made the skeg removeable and disguised a 7/8" diameter access hole in the deck with a coil of rope. By removing the skeg, and loosening the linkage collar, the rudder could be dropped clear of the boat. Even so, loosening the set screw of the collar on the rudder shaft was an excercise in frustration.
This time I made a solid skeg, soldered a flange near the top of the rudder shaft, and threaded both ends of the shaft. The tiller arm (made from a scrap of aluminum) slips over the shaft, and is held in place with a cap nut. The cap nut is a scrap of brass threaded to match the rudder shaft, with a slot cut in the top.
The rudder is made of a short length of aluminum rod on the leading edge drilled and threaded for the rudder shaft. The rod is fastened to the rest of the rudder with a pair of wood screws and epoxy.
To assemble the rudder, the shaft is fed through the rudder tube, screwed into the rudder, and held in place with a lock nut. The tiller arm is connected to the linkage, and slipped over the top end of the shaft, and after everything is aligned, the cap nut is tightened down.
A 5/16" diameter deck access is all thats needed! Drawing attached, photos to follow.
In order to remove the prop/prop shaft from my boat, I need to be able to remove the rudder, as I can't feed the shaft through the boat. This is a problem because this boat has a skeg, and the rudder linkage is far removed from the cabin opening in the deck. The skeg prevents the rudder from dropping down.
On my last boat I made the skeg removeable and disguised a 7/8" diameter access hole in the deck with a coil of rope. By removing the skeg, and loosening the linkage collar, the rudder could be dropped clear of the boat. Even so, loosening the set screw of the collar on the rudder shaft was an excercise in frustration.
This time I made a solid skeg, soldered a flange near the top of the rudder shaft, and threaded both ends of the shaft. The tiller arm (made from a scrap of aluminum) slips over the shaft, and is held in place with a cap nut. The cap nut is a scrap of brass threaded to match the rudder shaft, with a slot cut in the top.
The rudder is made of a short length of aluminum rod on the leading edge drilled and threaded for the rudder shaft. The rod is fastened to the rest of the rudder with a pair of wood screws and epoxy.
To assemble the rudder, the shaft is fed through the rudder tube, screwed into the rudder, and held in place with a lock nut. The tiller arm is connected to the linkage, and slipped over the top end of the shaft, and after everything is aligned, the cap nut is tightened down.
A 5/16" diameter deck access is all thats needed! Drawing attached, photos to follow.