Trick RC/Zagi "2m Beater" EPP sailplane

[Andy W]

I've searched here, the only reference I can find is an old article on wing repair.
Anyone have one of these? Any comments?

I plan to electrify it and make it my new AP platform..
..a

[InTheLift]

I've searched here, the only reference I can find is an old article on wing repair.
Anyone have one of these? Any comments?

I plan to electrify it and make it my new AP platform..
..a
That's an old one. You might want to try a search in the "Thermal Duration" board?

[Andy W]

Hmm.. I assumed it was a sloper as it was all EPP.. Thx!
..a

[InTheLift]

Hmm.. I assumed it was a sloper as it was all EPP.. Thx!
..a
It is...uh...was???...all EPP. A polyhedral R/E glider. Probably not the best thermal plane, and I think Trick R/C had intended it to be a slope trainer, but I thought it might be worth the search.

Good luck! :)

[Svengali]

It flew pretty decently on the slope and did make a great trainer. We even bungeed it a couple times (not a great thermaller, but it did handle the occasional fence-strainer landing). The closest thing to it these days would probably be the NSP Defiant.

[Andy W]

So, would my plan to use it as an aerial photography platform be practical?
A tad heavy - but that means stable in windy conditions. Able to land, well, in places many may not dare.. :)
..a

[fprintf]

Agreed with Svengali. The Trick R/C Beater never quite had the reputation as a capable flat field thermal duration flier. I think in order, based on what I have read, I would have put the Beater dead last. Then again, since you are electrifying it that assumes you already own this plane (since I'd recommend you not buy one).

Get rid of the coroplast sides to the fuselage. They are unnecessary and heavy, strapping tape should do just as well. Since you are a competent flier I'd also consider building up tail surfaces instead of coroplast. Those changes alone might make the plane into a suitable A/P flier.

Good luck Andy!

[Andy W]

Ah - the model I have has no corroplast sides (not mentioned in the instructions either) - it uses the carbon pushrod tubes as spars to stiffen the fuselage.

I paid $40 for it from a friend.

It comes with a VERY heavy aluminum joiner and sqaure brass tubes to support it. I may make it a one-piece wing instead. I will also add spoilers.

This looks like it could be fun.
..a

[fprintf]

I'd do a one piece wing like my Highlander has. Just epoxy in a properly shaped plywood joiner at the center joint, epoxied onto both sides of the spar. Way lighter and less complicated. Sounds like perhaps they listened to the advice originally given and ditched the coro. I am unsure if it is epp why a CF tube is necessary. I have one on my EPP Highlander but that is only because I have made the plane very floppy from repeated visits at high velocity to the earth.

It should be fun! No need for spoilers unless you are concerned about landing in very small areas. Adds complexity and the plane is not much of a floater from what I read.

[Svengali]

What fprintf said about the corroplast sides is definitely true - they didn't do much anyway, so I wouldn't worry about not having them.

The Highlander was suprisingly capable. Anyone still selling them? Talk about a stress-free plane...

[fprintf]

The Highlander was suprisingly capable. Anyone still selling them? Talk about a stress-free plane...

I love mine. Unfortunately they are no longer made. I have flown the Defiant and it seems reasonably similar, if a whole lot uglier and fat looking. The Gentle Foamy is reported to be as capable also with a slightly fatter chord.

[Soar_dude]

Agreed with Svengali. The Trick R/C Beater never quite had the reputation as a capable flat field thermal duration flier. I think in order, based on what I have read, I would have put the Beater dead last. Then again, since you are electrifying it that assumes you already own this plane (since I'd recommend you not buy one).

Get rid of the coroplast sides to the fuselage. They are unnecessary and heavy, strapping tape should do just as well. Since you are a competent flier I'd also consider building up tail surfaces instead of coroplast. Those changes alone might make the plane into a suitable A/P flier.

Good luck Andy!

Your thinking of the Floater fprintf!

Soar Dude

[MAVA]

I think this up your alley...

Click the plan button

http://home1.gte.net/texhills/index.html


Pictures

http://www.septicdesign.com/pic2/biggienuts/


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=228321

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193427

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=193427&page=2&pp=50&highlight=biggienuts

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=182346&highlight=biggienuts

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196152&highlight=biggienuts

http://www.septicdesign.com/pic2/aerial1/

Check out Picture Post #66 and 67

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258491&page=2&pp=50&highlight=biggienuts

Check out picture post 101

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258491&page=3&pp=50&highlight=biggienuts

Check out picture post 145

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258491&page=3&pp=50&highlight=biggienuts

Lots of great wing pictures...

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258491&highlight=biggienuts

Hope this helps

Martin

[Andy W]

This is not a flying wing, it is a 2m "sailplane" style model..
..a

[xtc]

andy ,im into A/P also and i have come to realize that its high drag /poor performance that works best for me ,,oh,,and lots of power!

its not a hard application and foam is even better becuase it protects the camera

i flew my camera first off on a brushless homebuilt parkflyer and it sure is great for landing in very small places but the glider allows you to shot pics while it does most of the flying on its own

the park flyer was much harder to see also at any distance

i think the foamy your talking about is perfect!
just for interest,here is a pic of my park flyer a/p and i will post my glider pics also latter if you like

xtc

[Andy W]

Yes, show me the glider pics (or point to where they're posted elsewhere)..
Camera mount options are what I'm most interested in.

I want to build this model so it will balance with or without motor and battery (for slope use later) and also so it balances whether the camera and video setup are mounted or not.

[xtc]

andy ,the glider i have is this hobby lobby skimmer 400 6 volt 6/3 folder ,20 amp esc 2cell 1050 apogee

the camera is a aiptec pencam that sits on the c/g

the interesting thing is that i replaced the 8 cell 1050 kan cells for li-po and a camera but the camera was also moved inside the fuse

i will be sure to post pics later today becuase i dont have my camera here now

i might also add that before the mod i flew with the camera on the side of the fuse which almost worked!! it would blank out the rudder at times

xtc

[xtc]

i dont have a fancy mount here just a bent [melted plastic bolt ,then a screw up threw the floor so im limited for adjusting angles on this one but you will find that about 45 degrees is a good place to start

notice the snot green for high alt lol
xtc

[xtc]

oh,i forgot to mention that the camera and battery lift out without effecting the c/g ,,the c/g is inbetween the two and the camera is 80 gram while the li-po is 52 grams i could have reversed the two if i had wanted but i choose to put the lens as far back as posiable to avoid see the wing in the picture

cheers

[Fred Sanford]

The 2M Beater was one of my first slope planes. It works fine for a trainer as it's almost impossible to break. I still use it to try new slopes. It will thermal from the slope. Too bad it's not available, same goes for the Highlander. When SkyKIng starts kitting the DAW TG-3 we'll have something similar.