View Full Version : 3D Foamy F15 Build Thread
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 12:16 AM
Ok, I just received my F15 a couple of days ago and started to build last night... only to realize that the manual is, for the most part, doesn't represent what you get in the kit.
I emailed 3D Foamy, and they're working on the revised manual.
Sooooo... I'm building it to the best of my abilities, and making educated guesses. :D
Here's my disclaimer:
1. This is my first build thread
2. This is my 6th plane that I've EVER built (I am in no way an expert or claim to be)
3. This is the first time I'm building this F15 from 3D Foamy... so I'll probably have mistakes here and there, especially with the lack of matching instruction manual.
4. If you follow this thread and build along with me using my suggestions, pictures, whatever... and then realize that something was glued wrong, added wrong, whatever... and you did it the way I did it, opps! That's your responsibility.
5. And for all intent and purposes, this is for entertainment use only... not educational (because I don't know what I'm doing). :D
So here we go...
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 12:17 AM
Ok... this is what I mean. I already broke something. :mad:
These are the pieces that I set aside for the first part of the build.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 12:20 AM
Here's the first parts that I'm gluing together. Just so you know... I'm using UHU Creativ Foam. This is the first time I'm using it, from what the direction says, apply it to both parts and set it aside for approximately 10 minutes, then press together. So that's what I've done here.
For the smaller piece, I made sure that it aligned properly to the fuselage sides before gluing.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 12:24 AM
Gluing some bulkheads to the fuselage, aligning the front bulkhead to be flush with the front piece of the fuselage, and aligning the back bulkhead to the back of the fuselage.
What about the center bulkhead? Bring out the triangle and try to get it as perpendicular as possible.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 12:26 AM
Now here's the part that I've guessed on...
For the rear bulkhead, I have no idea which way is up. So I just made a choice. I put the bigger hole on the bottom. Only time will tell if I messed up here or not.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 12:30 AM
Damn... another one that I'm guessing one... although this is more educated then the previous one.
The forward fuselage bottom piece. I picked the one with the cylinder tab at the end. Why? Because looking at the floorplan, the Forward Fuselage Bottom seems to fit perfectly with the Aft Fuselage Bottom.
Since the Aft Fuselage Bottom has the other end of the cylinder tab, I figure this is the right piece.... I hope! :eek:
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 12:33 AM
Ok... I'm taking a break now... actually to be honest, I need to look up some information on how to build the nosecone. Do I glue each part with each other... use 3M Super 77 Spray... how... what?
I don't know. So I'm going to do some research, and continue later tonight or tomorrow.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 01:11 AM
Ok... did some research:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3132325&postcount=181
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2627171&postcount=92
Basically, use 3M Super 77. Thank you Jetset44... and oh yes, thank you for this great design! :D
So it basically says, use 3M Super 77 to laminate the nosecone.... http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/cwm/3dlil/eek13.gif
I don't understand. So what did I do? I did a test spot on some scrap foam first with the 3M 77 to make sure it won't eat it.
Took the pieces and 3M outside. Lined the nosecone foam up. Put on some latex gloves, took one piece, applied 3M 77 to it, attached another piece to it. Applied 3M 77 to that piece and attached another piece to it.
This has to be the most logical way to do it... and now that I'm done with it... it looks good. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 01:45 AM
Here's my first attempt at drawing the curve on the nosecone.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 01:48 AM
And now, the correct way. http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/cwm/3dlil/idea.gif
First print out the plans. Cut out the nosecone portion. Put it on the nosecone. Trace... and viola!
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 01:52 AM
Now I did this part, and I regret it.
Here's what I did. I took out my trusty saw. Carved away. Sanded away. And then glued it to the fuselage... http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/corky/corkysm54.gif
This is bad. Here's what it looks like:
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 01:53 AM
Don't know if you can see it with this picture. I cut a little too much, and the fuselage will be a little compromised if I shave off the fuselage to match.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 01:55 AM
What I should've done is this.
Glued the nosecone to the fuselage. Then shave and sand. Oh well. http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/unknown/face7.gif
rpage
Feb 20, 2005, 02:02 AM
well if you are not happy with it, you can always cut the nose off and do it over. Glad you are sharing this build! Look forward to updates! (like you didnt post enough already in one night) :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 02:05 AM
I trimmed the fuselage a little. It has a bigger angle right now. I'll sand it out tomorrow.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 02:12 AM
Last one for today.
Trimmed the nosecone off the top to match the fuselage. I'm waiting for the glue to dry before I start sanding.
Since, I'm tired, I decided for the last thing to do on this plane is to add some Gorilla Glue to the fuselage and the connection of the fuselage and nosecone.
Why?
To be more secure. To add a little weight to the nose since I've read that this plane has a tendency to be tail heavy.
I love the way Gorilla Glue foams up to fill up the gaps. If you never used it, for the first time, don't put too much. It'll foam up over night and make it VERY secure.
I think I put a little too much for my F15 though. Talk about not taking your own advice. http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/ruinkai/wvsore.gif
Oh well, I'm done for the night.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 02:18 AM
well if you are not happy with it, you can always cut the nose off and do it over. Glad you are sharing this build! Look forward to updates! (like you didnt post enough already in one night) :D
That's true! I'm going to take the easy route for now and work with the mistake that I made. http://deephousepage.com/smilies/banghead.gif
If... actually when, the nose eventually gets damaged after flying... eh landing... crashing... whatever, I'll do a better job on the replacement. :D
RCParkflyer
Feb 20, 2005, 03:36 AM
Hi Psycho I'm VERY Glad you started this thread, as I have one of the last FFF F-15 Kits that Levy sold, to build. I wish I had spent the extra 10 bux and bought a Depron kit though, the FFF is VERY thin and brittle, It's thinner than the bulk FFF that I bought from Lowes. I think what I'm going to do is trace out all the Parts onto some sheets of FFF so I can make spares, if I need them. I'll crack open the kit tomorrow after the Daytona 500, and find my bottle of Gorilla glue.
STaNgXs
Feb 20, 2005, 01:57 PM
Looks good so far.
With the nose, I didn't cut, or draw anything on it.. I just put a dot on the tip, in the middle, and started sanding(after it was glues on the fuselage, so they can shape up together). Takes more time that way, but I think it comes out better. The nose is supposed to be circular...
tip: do not trim out anything, just sand it, you can shape depron out very nicely by just sanding it.
Keep us updated, looks good!
STaNgXs
Feb 20, 2005, 02:06 PM
also noticed, you didn't put the top on in the front (right above the nose), so you're nose is not going to be aligned with the fuselage too nicely...
it looks exactly like the f-18 so far. I hope i'm wrong about that top part though, but that's how it is on the f-18.
DCobra
Feb 20, 2005, 02:58 PM
also noticed, you didn't put the top on in the front (right above the nose), so you're nose is not going to be aligned with the fuselage too nicely...
it looks exactly like the f-18 so far. I hope i'm wrong about that top part though, but that's how it is on the f-18.
True, but I've done the same thing and it's easily fixed. When you do the top piece StangXs is talking about, cut it oversize so it overlaps the nosecone, then becareful not to use too much glue so it can be sanded to match the rest of the nose cone.
-Paul
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 04:18 PM
Looks good so far.
With the nose, I didn't cut, or draw anything on it.. I just put a dot on the tip, in the middle, and started sanding(after it was glues on the fuselage, so they can shape up together). Takes more time that way, but I think it comes out better. The nose is supposed to be circular...
tip: do not trim out anything, just sand it, you can shape depron out very nicely by just sanding it.
Keep us updated, looks good!
Yeah... my is more of a pyramid right now. I'm going to have to spend more time on it.
Here's how it looks a little more sanded down.
It's flush with the body now. Just need to round it out.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 04:20 PM
Here's the picture with the Gorilla Glue dried up. Noticed out it foamed out a little.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 04:21 PM
also noticed, you didn't put the top on in the front (right above the nose), so you're nose is not going to be aligned with the fuselage too nicely...
it looks exactly like the f-18 so far. I hope i'm wrong about that top part though, but that's how it is on the f-18.
You're correct about this part. I realized it last night, and did the following.
Here's the 2 pieces that I'm working with.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 04:23 PM
I have the smaller piece going across, fitting into the groove.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 04:27 PM
For the top portion, I trimmed the foam to fit exactly inside the gap.
Here's why I did this.
1. I did this last night at about 2:00 AM http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/cwm/3dlil/sleep.gif (generally not a good idea)
2. It's now completely flush.
3. If I need to has foam above it, I still can.
4. Either way, it's too late now, we'll see if I need to make changes as we progress. :eek: :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 04:29 PM
Yes, the angle of the fuselage and nosecone is a little crooked. I'll fix it later. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 04:31 PM
Now... I had these 2 "extra" pieces and the only place I could think of putting them is here.
The pieces are the 2 medium length, skinny pieces of the rod.
Here's a picture of it already glued to the fuselage.
Gives it a double layer for support of the top portion of the fuselage.
STaNgXs
Feb 20, 2005, 04:34 PM
cool, not a bad idea.
Only problem I see is lining up the canopy. But, I'm sure you'll figure something out.
Maybe you'll have it ready by next Sunday, I'll bring my f-18 out, finished fixing it yesterday :D
This damn weather is pissing me off!
What powerplant are you going to go with?
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 05:19 PM
cool, not a bad idea.
Only problem I see is lining up the canopy. But, I'm sure you'll figure something out.
Maybe you'll have it ready by next Sunday, I'll bring my f-18 out, finished fixing it yesterday :D
This damn weather is pissing me off!
What powerplant are you going to go with?
Yeah, I'm looking at the canopy portion and see a slight problem. I'll just have to use some of the scrap foam to fabricate something. :D
I'm hoping it'll be done by next weekend. Are you going out today to fly your F-18?
For the powerplant, I currently have the Axi 2212/20 and Himax 2025-5300, so I'm still debating between the two. I'll try both at the field and see which I like better.
STaNgXs
Feb 20, 2005, 05:28 PM
Yeah, I'm looking at the canopy portion and see a slight problem. I'll just have to use some of the scrap foam to fabricate something. :D
I'm hoping it'll be done by next weekend. Are you going out today to fly your F-18?
For the powerplant, I currently have the Axi 2212/20 and Himax 2025-5300, so I'm still debating between the two. I'll try both at the field and see which I like better.
No, the weather sucks!
Make sure you put an ESC that can handle enough amps so you can upgrade the motor later on, if you're not happy with it. B/c you have to cut through the foam if you wana change the ESC down the road..
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:14 PM
No, the weather sucks!
Make sure you put an ESC that can handle enough amps so you can upgrade the motor later on, if you're not happy with it. B/c you have to cut through the foam if you wana change the ESC down the road..
I was able to get 1 flight and strong wind. :D Was it worth it? Don't know. At least I got some fresh air.
The Axi 2212/20 (http://www.modelmotors.cz/index.php?id=en&nc=produkty_vypis&kategorie=m_neodym_ac&id_rady=axi_22&id_produktu=axi_2212_20&nazev_rady=Series%20AXI%2022&hmotnost_rady=(24,5%20-%2057%20g)) has a max load of 16 Amps
And the Himax 2025-5366 (http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-262.html) just says 25A ESC rating.
I currently have CC Phoenix 25 so it should be fine for both motors. That would suck if I had to tear into it just to change the ESC!
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:16 PM
Bring out your heat gun and gently warm up the aft fuselage. As you're heating it up, bend it into a curve. Test fit it with the side fuselages and continue curving it until it fit properly.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:18 PM
With my right angle with groove, I marked the center of the aft fuselage. After marking the center, used a ruler and sharpee to draw a line down the center.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:22 PM
I took a guess on this one.
I had 2 long skinny pieces of foam that I could not find a place for. So I'm assuming that it's for the bottom support strip of the fuselage sides.
In number 6 of the instructions manual, it also talks about the plywood stab mounts and the smaller support foam strip... I didn't do this yet.
For the plywood stab, it seems to be replaced by plastic rings, and the only part that I can figure would fit for the support foam strip close to the tail, has an angle. I don't know which end the angle goes to... although it's probably towards the back.
Either way, I'll be doing these two parts later as we go further along...
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:24 PM
Like I said, the 2 long support foam pieces extended pass the fuselage sides. After gluing it to the sides, took out my Xacto and clipped them off.
Maybe I'll use the scrap for another portion for support pieces...
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:26 PM
Now I took both fuselage sides and glued it to the fuselage aft. Doing my best to keep it perpedicular. http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/ruinkai/wwlistless.gif
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:28 PM
Now I took the forward fuselage and used masking tape to tape the ends.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:29 PM
Now I glued the forward fuselage to the aft fuselage. Keeping it true to the center line.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:31 PM
Now I noticed that the circular tabs doesn't fit exactly. I'm going to use some Gorilla glue to cover the gap and to secure the fuselage side, forward and aft fuselage to each other later tonight.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:33 PM
Used 3M Super 77 to laminate the 2 motor mount supports together. Just sandwiched together.
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:36 PM
Used 5 minute epoxy to sandwich the plywood mounts to each other and then to the foam supports.
I didn't use UHU for this one because I'm guessing that the hold is not going to be as strong as epoxy when gluing the plywood to the foam.... then again, I might be wrong on this. :eek: :D
I've used epoxy for plywood/foam holds with success... so that what I used here. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 20, 2005, 09:37 PM
Now I used UHU again to glue the motor mount support to the aft fuselage. Using the center line of the aft fuselage as the guide.
Towards the back, there is a little gap on the aft fuselage that I used as the center guide for the motor mount support.
compuatic
Feb 21, 2005, 12:50 AM
cowboy bebop is da man!
RCParkflyer
Feb 21, 2005, 01:07 AM
She's looking real good!! Your a building Dynamo :)
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 01:57 AM
cowboy bebop is da man!
Damn straight! :D Wish it didn't end...
She's looking real good!! Your a building Dynamo :)
You're much too kind... I'm still a beginner fumbling through. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:00 AM
Now why do I have a picture of the carbon rod? I like to sand my carbon rod especially when it's used for the elevator.
Smoothes it out a little and makes it easier to rotate.
I test fitted the plastic cylinders and wooden cylinders and it was WAY too tight. Sanded the rod until it was able to rotate a lot easier. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:05 AM
Now things gets difficult.
Seems like the holes for the pivoting rod is off by about 1/2 CM.
I measured it several times to be sure.
The second picture shows my right angle to verify that the fuselage sides are aligned with each other. I had some extra carbon rods, so I put one on the other side.
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:07 AM
Sooo... for those of you who like to read before doing, lay the fuselage sides together to make sure that the holes are aligned....
Otherwise, you get to poke holes into the foam while trying to make sure that it's perpendicular. http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/cwm/3dlil/mad.gif
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:09 AM
Just to show you, here's the hole that I had to made compared to the pre-existing hole...
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:13 AM
Now for the part that I hate.
I've only done this once before... it was for my Fancy Foam Extra 300L. That was my first time that I used the carbon rod for the elevator and I mistakenly had some of the glue on the rod and supports. Took me a while to fix it for the 300L, and it did get fixed... but what a pain... http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/corky/corkysm36.gif
Anyways, here it goes.
This part is COMPLETELY different from the instruction manual. Sent Levi an email, and got a response with some pictures. I also did some research here, and found a couple of posts (http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3109869&postcount=637) on it.
So using the picture from Levi's email and the picture from another user here on the forum, I put the pieces in order.
You can't see it on this picture, there is 1 white plastic washer at each end on the outside of the side fuselage.
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:16 AM
Here's a picture of the pieces glued to the fuselage. Be VERY careful when doing this, take you're time.
It's important to use the rod as a guide so that everything lines up... and at the same time, DON'T put glue on the rod or else you'll be in a world of hurt...
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:18 AM
Now some of you might see it... some not. Well I saw it.
Where's the hole for the elevator servo!?! :eek:
ARGH!!! http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/contrib/dvv/po.gif
I tried to bend my xacto blade to an angle and it immediately snapped. http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/ups/razor_wind/madani.gif
So, I took my plier, took a blade and did this.
Akura2
Feb 21, 2005, 02:22 AM
Thanks for this thread... I've had my 3Dfoamy F15 for about a month now and I still haven't tackled it... 1. no time....2. no instruction (at least none that I wanted to use)
I noticed the mis-aligned stab holes too....tsk tsk
BTW.. has anyone else noticed that 3DFoamy's site is down?
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:24 AM
Traced around the elevator servo, used the plier/blade and started cutting away. I did my best making it a little smaller compared to the servo, so that I can squeeze it in for a tight fit.
For added security, I took some hot glue and glued the servo to the foam.
Also took out my Axi motor and mounted it to the mount... (that sounds funny...)
Plugged in the servo to the receiver to make sure it was zeroed out, installed the piano wire... and here's the result...
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:28 AM
Thanks for this thread... I've had my 3Dfoamy F16 for about a month now and I still haven't tackled it... 1. no time....2. no instruction (at least none that I wanted to use)
I noticed the mis-aligned stab holes too....tsk tsk
BTW.. has anyone else noticed that 3DFoamy's site is down?
Hopefully this thread will help you even though it's the F15. If you do, please wait until I'm done because I'm guessing on a couple of things that I might have to fix later.
Thanks for verifing that the stab holes are misaligned. At first I thought I screwed up... I guess I didn't. :)
I just tried to go to 3D Foamy's site and it's down. They recently changed to a different server, so who knows.
psycho_klown66
Feb 21, 2005, 02:31 AM
I did one last thing, and that was use Gorilla glue at the joints between the side fuselage and aft fuselage.
It's possible that this is overkill... oh well.. makes me feel better. :D
DCobra
Feb 21, 2005, 04:17 AM
For the top portion, I trimmed the foam to fit exactly inside the gap.
Here's why I did this.
1. I did this last night at about 2:00 AM http://instagiber.net/smiliesdotcom/cwm/3dlil/sleep.gif (generally not a good idea)
2. It's now completely flush.
3. If I need to has foam above it, I still can.
4. Either way, it's too late now, we'll see if I need to make changes as we progress. :eek: :D
Outstanding work on that fix for the nosecone-fuse mating!
DCobra
Feb 21, 2005, 04:26 AM
Here's a picture of the pieces glued to the fuselage. Be VERY careful when doing this, take you're time.
It's important to use the rod as a guide so that everything lines up... and at the same time, DON'T put glue on the rod or else you'll be in a world of hurt...
Been there, done that....OUCH!
Removing Probond from CF tubing that is glued to aluminum sleeve tubing ain't no joke.
Good work so far!
Akura2
Feb 21, 2005, 09:08 AM
Hopefully this thread will help you even though it's the F15. If you do, please wait until I'm done because I'm guessing on a couple of things that I might have to fix later.
Thanks for verifing that the stab holes are misaligned. At first I thought I screwed up... I guess I didn't. :)
I just tried to go to 3D Foamy's site and it's down. They recently changed to a different server, so who knows.
OOps... I meant F15.... been reading Hans-Joachim's F16 thread....LOL
STaNgXs
Feb 21, 2005, 02:22 PM
Damn, you're moving along pretty quickly!
Just make sure your pushrod on the elevator sero is secure. I CA'd the screw holding the pushrod, b/c with viabration, it get loose, and there's no way you can access that after you put the top part of the fuselage on!
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 02:37 PM
Started to lay out the ESC, checked that the prop was turning the correct way, taped it down.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 02:41 PM
I thought I was going to have an easy way of marking the area where the carbon rods fit into the wing...
I was going to cut out the plans for the wing, cut along side where the rods are marked, and then trace...
But as you can, the actual wing is bigger than the plan's printout.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 02:45 PM
So, with a lot of measuring with my right angle, I marked the portion that I wanted to cut out.
Started cutting at a 45* angle and keep trimming away until the carbon rod fit.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 02:58 PM
One thing I noticed was that the carbon spar is almost as thick as the foam.
So... I taped up one side, used Gorilla Glue to foam up the empty pockets, taped up the other side.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:00 PM
Now... WHAT IS THIS!?! You might be asking yourself.
It's my Brinks safe and Vol 1 and Vol 2 of Farside Collection.
Underneath it is the wing. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:02 PM
After about 5-6 hours, I checked on the wing and it the Gorilla Glue seemed to have finish curing. I took the 2 small plywood doublers and epoxied it to the top and bottom of the spar joint.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:05 PM
In hind-sight... I'm thinking that if I had to do the wing again, I wouldn't have cut the foam too deep. My original goal was to have the carbon rod flush with the foam. But now, if the wing takes a lot of stress, the wings doesn't have the full support of the carbon rods because the rods themselves are too deep inside the wing.
Oh well. http://www.clicksmilies.com/s0105/traurig/sad-smiley-052.gif
If it fails, at least bought some extra foam to make another wing. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:08 PM
Next I made a cut into the foam so that the servo wires and ESC wires can get to the receiver inside the center fuselage.
I'm using 12" servo extensions for the ESC and elevator Servo and will use 6" servo extensions for the aierlon servos.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:10 PM
I measured and marked the section where the aierlon servos were going to get attached. Using my trusty right angle, I made sure that the servos were lined up with each other and started to carve away.
After I test fitted the servos, I added some hot glue to secure them in place.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:12 PM
For the stabilators, I turned on the ESC with the elevator servo attached so that everything is zeroed out. Measured the stabilators for the place where the carbon rod will be placed.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:21 PM
Now, this is how I make sure that everything is straight.
I put a small lunchbox under each stabilator. These lunchboxes are the exact same size, height, everything.
I put a battery pack under the nose.... now I know that sounds odd... and it actually is. That's the only thing that I had to bring the nose up to the proper height.
Bring out my right angle again to check the height of the fuselage off of the ground. You can also use a leveler. :D
With the plane perfectly level, and the stabilator at the correct angle of zero, with the servo zeroed out, and with the linkage perfect straight...
I finally applied some Epoxy to the carbon rod and coated over it. Be careful not to get too close to the fuselage, or else you'll end up with NO elevator at all. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:24 PM
I'm missing a picture for this one. Well actually, there should be 2 pictures, I only have 1.
Glued on the inlet boundary layer diverter. First the 3mm foam piece, then the 6mm over it. The pictures from the manual are helpful for getting the alignment correct.
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 03:27 PM
OOps... I meant F15.... been reading Hans-Joachim's F16 thread....LOL
I kindof figured... I remember only seeing the F15 and F18 at 3D Foamy. :D
Just make sure your pushrod on the elevator sero is secure. I CA'd the screw holding the pushrod, b/c with viabration, it get loose, and there's no way you can access that after you put the top part of the fuselage on!
I'm trying to figure out a way so that at least the rear top portion can be removable. This would be helpful for changing/replacing ESC, and have access to the elevator servo... maybe velro and/or magnets?
The 2 problems that might come up is the added weight to the rear, and the possibility of the foam piece flying lose and get shredded by the spinning propellor. :eek:
psoutowood
Feb 22, 2005, 04:12 PM
Thanks for the great build thread. It's nice to see people who build like me. Some of the high performance guys are triple-buffing the aileron servo wells and lining them with carbon, then fiberglass, then shrink-wrapping the servos, then gooping them in place, THEN fitting flush-mounted custom-made carbon aileron fairings. Jaysus! I tend to go with ease/utility over beauty. I've found with builds that when you are Mr. Plan-Ahead, it's usually about 4 minutes into the drying cycle of 5-minute epoxy that you've noticed you have A)forgotten a piece, B)put it on upside-down/backwards, or C)glued it to the table. Also, it isn't a true project until you've gotten to step 2 in the instructions and have to start winging it and improvising.
Good work and keep forging through those mistakes. The great inventors and designers never got anywhere by doing things by the book every time!
psycho_klown66
Feb 22, 2005, 05:55 PM
Hahahaha... the funny thing is that I can go over the manual TWICE.. and still make a mistake... don't know what it is...
At first I thought it was because I was rushing through it too fast. So, with the Dandy Sport, I did 1 or 2 steps a day. Still made mistakes.
Also, I'm sure some of you guys noticed, I'm putting the instruction numbers as titles. Posts with no titles are continuation from the previous post.
When you scroll through the order of steps that I'm taking, it's obvious that I'm jumping around... which reminds me... I need to go through each step and make sure I didn't miss anything! :eek: :D
Aten W Arthog
Feb 22, 2005, 09:17 PM
I'm looking at your procedure on the H-stab, and I'm thinking you would have an easier time (next time) if you do the steps in this way:
Thread up the washers and bearings as you did, and the control horn on the carbon rod, but DO NOT YET GLUE THE HORN ONTO THE ROD. Let it be free to spin around a little...
Put the stabs on the rod, let dry. One way to know they are even might be to let the tail part of both the stabs droop all the way to the table, resting on it, creating a natural straight edge. You can measure each side's angle with a protractor if you want... perhaps eventually the plans will have a printed angle gauge for this, it would take like 2 seconds to draw... Because you didn't yet glue the horn in place, you won't have a fit/angle problem.
When the stabs are dry, THEN is the time to power up the elevator servo, set servo neutral, connect and adjust the linkage pushrod wire, and get the stabs rotated into level position and clamped or propped up. NOW comes the magic moment for gluing the elevator horn into place, locking everything together. You could tack it with some CA, then use something stronger, as you like.
This is I think how I will do it on my F-18.
jetset44
Feb 23, 2005, 12:16 AM
Wow, great job with this build thread psycho_kown! Very well documented. And I'm sure it will be greatly appreciated by a lot of folks.
Believe it or not, this thread is actually allowing me to see the 3DFoamy kit for the first time! Levi hasn't had a chance to send me an F-15 or F-18 kit yet to check out, since he's been so busy filling customer orders and paring down the waiting list...
Steve
RCParkflyer
Feb 23, 2005, 12:24 AM
I wonder if Levy has built any of them himself ?
STaNgXs
Feb 23, 2005, 01:33 AM
Almost there!
I suggest you extend the battery wires from the ESC, and not the motor wires. Also, If you haven't read this, wrap the battery wires with foil, from ESC to the end, to prevent glitching.
I was also going suggest not cutting the spar in half, since that's what cuased my f-18 to crash (as you know), I have my spar straight on my f-18 now. But, it looks like you did a good job with gluing yours in, I don't see you have the same problem as me!
I'm gana be painting my f-18 tomorrow, hopefully we'll both have our Jets at the field this Sunday! looks like we're gana have some nice weather by then :D
STaNgXs
Feb 23, 2005, 01:36 AM
I wonder if Levy has built any of them himself ?
yes, he has.. he's posted some nice helpfull pics in the giant f-18 thread.
Oski
Feb 23, 2005, 02:44 AM
Very nice construction article. Putting one of mine together using this, plans, and Steve's construction manual.
I found formers F3 and F4 to be about 4mm short in heigth. I used square balsa instead of foam in front.
I believe the foam strips on the sheet were made for this purpose. Hard to say without ref"s. There probably are some other parts which I don't recognize.
One of my tailerons has the carbon slot miscut. I beleive a lot of the first run kits are like that. But I have two kits so will use the correct two.
The holes on my sides and the ones in the center foam mount also do not line up. I plan on using plywood plates per Steve's manual and aluminum tube for bearings. Will drill all holes before gluing. Will not glue center mount until all lined up.
Will add shims around "nub" that joins rear bottom plate, to accomadate mis-match on size. I wonder if that was done on purpose?
Finally. Do you have a clear canopy? Did you figure out how to trim it? Mine has two different ledges. I can't figure out what Levi intended for this. If you cut it all the way down to it's base, then you will have cut and shape some extra pieces of foam to bring it to the right hiegth.
I thing as part on the construction manual Levi should print a key identifying some of the less logical parts.
Mike
Oski
Feb 23, 2005, 02:49 AM
Ps. I plan on putting my spar staight across the wing. Also, Neither Steve's manual or the plans have markings as to where to cut aileron servo holes. I think Steve assumed that Levi would precut those.
Mike
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 03:43 AM
I'm looking at your procedure on the H-stab, and I'm thinking you would have an easier time (next time) if you do the steps in this way:
Thread up the washers and bearings as you did, and the control horn on the carbon rod, but DO NOT YET GLUE THE HORN ONTO THE ROD. Let it be free to spin around a little...
Put the stabs on the rod, let dry. One way to know they are even might be to let the tail part of both the stabs droop all the way to the table, resting on it, creating a natural straight edge. You can measure each side's angle with a protractor if you want... perhaps eventually the plans will have a printed angle gauge for this, it would take like 2 seconds to draw... Because you didn't yet glue the horn in place, you won't have a fit/angle problem.
When the stabs are dry, THEN is the time to power up the elevator servo, set servo neutral, connect and adjust the linkage pushrod wire, and get the stabs rotated into level position and clamped or propped up. NOW comes the magic moment for gluing the elevator horn into place, locking everything together. You could tack it with some CA, then use something stronger, as you like.
This is I think how I will do it on my F-18.
That's why I love this forum... there's so many ways of doing the same thing and allows us to share them! :D
Wow, great job with this build thread psycho_kown! Very well documented. And I'm sure it will be greatly appreciated by a lot of folks.
Believe it or not, this thread is actually allowing me to see the 3DFoamy kit for the first time! Levi hasn't had a chance to send me an F-15 or F-18 kit yet to check out, since he's been so busy filling customer orders and paring down the waiting list...
Steve
I'm thankful that you designed this great plane and shared it with everyone! I bought some depron so that I can attempt to scratchbuild your F18 after I'm done with the F15! :D
I suggest you extend the battery wires from the ESC, and not the motor wires. Also, If you haven't read this, wrap the battery wires with foil, from ESC to the end, to prevent glitching.
I was also going suggest not cutting the spar in half, since that's what cuased my f-18 to crash (as you know), I have my spar straight on my f-18 now. But, it looks like you did a good job with gluing yours in, I don't see you have the same problem as me!
I'm gana be painting my f-18 tomorrow, hopefully we'll both have our Jets at the field this Sunday! looks like we're gana have some nice weather by then
Yep! I soldered some extension wires from the ESC to battery and wrapped it with foil. :D
I think you're right on not cutting the spar in half. It would give more support if it's just one piece. Hopefully it'll be fine. I could put a thinner carbon rod going across so that the carbon rods almost form a triangle... I'll have to think about it because it'll add weight.
I'm hoping that it'll stop raining by this weekend... I already have the paint scheme in mind, just have to wait for the Krylon short cut and blank decal sheets. :D
The holes on my sides and the ones in the center foam mount also do not line up. I plan on using plywood plates per Steve's manual and aluminum tube for bearings. Will drill all holes before gluing. Will not glue center mount until all lined up.
Will add shims around "nub" that joins rear bottom plate, to accomadate mis-match on size. I wonder if that was done on purpose?
Finally. Do you have a clear canopy? Did you figure out how to trim it? Mine has two different ledges. I can't figure out what Levi intended for this. If you cut it all the way down to it's base, then you will have cut and shape some extra pieces of foam to bring it to the right hiegth.
I thing as part on the construction manual Levi should print a key identifying some of the less logical parts.
...
Ps. I plan on putting my spar staight across the wing. Also, Neither Steve's manual or the plans have markings as to where to cut aileron servo holes. I think Steve assumed that Levi would precut those.
I hope Levi fixed the misalignment for future batches.
I have the clear canopy. I trimmed off A LOT to make it fit... don't know if it'll look right until I'm done. I'll take a picture of it. :D
I hope the manual will be descriptive with lots of pictures.
For the aileron servo holes... I just guesstimated. I looked at the plan, looked at my plane, looked at the plan, looked at my plane... then guessed. :)
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 03:40 PM
Finally soldered the power extension and twisted the wire. I think I used 14 guage... don't remember off hand.
Also wrapped it with aluminum foil for insulation.
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 03:49 PM
Taped up all the electronics.
Noticed where I put the receiver? I think I should've put it more towards the nose so that I have gain access to it and to head get more weight to the nose... too late now... :rolleyes:
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 03:51 PM
Routed and taped up the antenna.
macafied
Feb 23, 2005, 03:53 PM
"I'm trying to figure out a way so that at least the rear top portion can be removable. This would be helpful for changing/replacing ESC, and have access to the elevator servo... maybe velro and/or magnets?"
For my F15 I cut the rear top section in two pieces about 3 inches from the back. I glued the rear piece on to the fuse and used velcro and tape to secure the front section (magnets could be used as well). This gives me access to the elevator servo and everything else back there.
Even if it did come off, it is easily replaced as it's just a rectangular piece of foam.
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 03:53 PM
Cut some slots for the aierlons. I used my right angle so that it parallel to the edge. Luckily, the hole was the perfect distance so I just traced with my blade.
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 03:54 PM
Here's a picture with the control horn. And yes, I know that the control horn is backward. I realized it after I took the picture. :D
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 03:58 PM
"I'm trying to figure out a way so that at least the rear top portion can be removable. This would be helpful for changing/replacing ESC, and have access to the elevator servo... maybe velro and/or magnets?"
For my F15 I cut the rear top section in two pieces about 3 inches from the back. I glued the rear piece on to the fuse and used velcro and tape to secure the front section (magnets could be used as well). This gives me access to the elevator servo and everything else back there.
Even if it did come off, it is easily replaced as it's just a rectangular piece of foam.
That's a good idea.
I decided to just glue it on there. If there's a reason to remove the electronics, it usually because the plane was too damaged and I'm retreiving the electronics for another plane. :D
And... if it's just faulty electronics that I need to replace... I'll deal with it then... :rolleyes:
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 03:59 PM
Now I curved the top part of the aft fuselage
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 04:01 PM
I test fitted the top aft fuselage. Marked how low it's going to be so that I can glue additional foam to hold it up.
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 04:03 PM
Now I glued on the support strip. BTW, I made a mistake here :eek: ... I'll explain soon enough... :(
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 04:06 PM
Now while I'm waiting for the glue to dry, I cut the 45 degree bevel to the leading edge and taped down the flaperons. Also epoxied the control horns.
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 04:08 PM
Did a test fit of the wing and the front piece of the wing, then glued down.
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 04:10 PM
Now I did a test fit of the aft fuselage and glued it on. I forgot to do something before gluing this down... you'll see...
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 04:11 PM
For the forward inlet tops, I first did a test fit and also marked what kind of angle I needed to trim off.
Trimmed the leading edge to the angle needed and glued it to the top of the inlet.
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 04:12 PM
Same thing with the fuselage turtledeck. Test fit, mark the center, glue it on.
psycho_klown66
Feb 23, 2005, 04:15 PM
Test fit and glued.
Although...
I would've done this part differently. I would've taken the top part of the turtledeck, glued the turtledeck sides to the top to get the correct angle, mark the center on the wing, then glued this piece to the wing.
This would make it easier to get the correct angle so that the turtledeck sides are not to far in or out when compared to the turtledeck top. :D
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