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Peter A Forbes
Feb 09, 2005, 04:11 PM
Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some
30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but
sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!

Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems that
there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the drawbar
thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.

Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using one or
t'other??

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Tim Leech
Feb 09, 2005, 04:11 PM
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 20:40:50 +0000 (UTC), Peter A Forbes
<diesel@easynet.co.uk> wrote:

>Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some
>30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but
>sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!
>
Count yourself lucky, Peter - I've got both on the same mill!

>Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems that
>there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the drawbar
>thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.
>
>Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using one or
>t'other??

Thers seems to be more 30INT around secondhand than BT30, & if you try
to use both you'll be constantly messing about with drawbar lengths.

What are you looking for in particular? I've got a few more bits of 30
tooling than I need, after getting a job lot of QC30 for the
Bridgeport.

I've also got a nice little high speed angle head for a Beaver.......

Cheers
Tim

Dutton Dry-Dock
Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs
Vintage diesel engine service

Tom
Feb 09, 2005, 04:11 PM
Peter A Forbes wrote:
>
> Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some
> 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but
> sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!
>
> Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems that
> there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the drawbar
> thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.
>
> Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using one or
> t'other??
>
> Peter
>
> --
> Peter & Rita Forbes
> Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
> Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

6 of one, 1/2 dozen of other, new, BT30 is cheaper out here and ETM make
an adapter that allows the same drawbar to be used.
Somehow I think you won't be buying new anyway...:-)

Tom

mark
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
Peter A Forbes wrote:
> Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout
for some
> 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES
and 2ES) but
> sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!
>
> Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it
seems that
> there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with
the drawbar
> thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.
>
> Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of
using one or
> t'other??
>
> Peter
>
> --
> Peter & Rita Forbes
> Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
> Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Agggh..not another person to compete with ..
need some of the stuff myself .
only have one collet chuck and four collets so far..
I was going to bid on this little lot ......but when it said bid =A3190
to "WIN" in the last 30 seconds I changed my mind ..
still wondering if I should have bid..see below.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=3D1&item=3D3871514656&ss=
PageName=3DSTRK:MEWA:IT

anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout...
all the best...mark

mark@ems-fife.co.uk
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
Don`t know about the 30,but WNT are doing 40`s for =A328-=A332.Their site
will either be www.wnt.com or www.wnt.co.uk
regards,Mark.

Peter A Forbes
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
On 9 Feb 2005 14:35:24 -0800, "mark" <aboard_epsilon@yahoo.com> wrote:

>
>Peter A Forbes wrote:
>> Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout
>for some
>> 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES
>and 2ES) but
>> sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!
>>
>> Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it
>seems that
>> there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with
>the drawbar
>> thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.
>>
>> Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of
>using one or
>> t'other??
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> --
>> Peter & Rita Forbes
>> Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
>> Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
>
>Agggh..not another person to compete with ..
>need some of the stuff myself .
>only have one collet chuck and four collets so far..
>I was going to bid on this little lot ......but when it said bid £190
>to "WIN" in the last 30 seconds I changed my mind ..
>still wondering if I should have bid..see below.
>
>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871514656&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
>
>anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout...
>all the best...mark

If you look at how much of that stuff you would actually use, it seems to me to
be a bit pricey, you can't use them all at once :-))

I did see them but kept out as the prices were rising quite sharply, always a
bad sign....

I'm chasing another lot locally, so if I get any spares, I'll give you a shout.
I will also be talking to Tim leech about his bits on offer as well :-))

I will have to check on the beer token stocks!

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Peter A Forbes
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 11:04:31 -0800, Tom <tmartin@xtra.co.nz> wrote:

>Peter A Forbes wrote:
>>
>> Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some
>> 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but
>> sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!
>>
>> Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems that
>> there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the drawbar
>> thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.
>>
>> Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using one or
>> t'other??
>>
>> Peter
>>
>> --
>> Peter & Rita Forbes
>> Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
>> Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
>
>6 of one, 1/2 dozen of other, new, BT30 is cheaper out here and ETM make
>an adapter that allows the same drawbar to be used.
>Somehow I think you won't be buying new anyway...:-)
>
>Tom

Certainly not! :-))

With so much stuff coming on the market, there's no need to pay premium prices,
especially with the amount of machinery being scrapped at present.

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Tim Leech
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
On 9 Feb 2005 14:35:24 -0800, "mark" <aboard_epsilon@yahoo.com> wrote:

>

>Agggh..not another person to compete with ..
>need some of the stuff myself .
>only have one collet chuck and four collets so far..
>I was going to bid on this little lot ......but when it said bid £190
>to "WIN" in the last 30 seconds I changed my mind ..
>still wondering if I should have bid..see below.
>
>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871514656&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
>

Not a bad deal for someone who wants most or all of it, IMHO. Looks as
though a lot of it is QC30, wouldn't mind a QC30 autolock myself!

Cheers
Tim

Dutton Dry-Dock
Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs
Vintage diesel engine service

mark@ems-fife.co.uk
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
Just looked for WNT site,it`s actually www.wntuk.com.Annoyingly they
don`t have an online catalogue.
Mark

Steve Larner
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
RDG had some nice 30Int tooling from a UK company that closed down.

I had MT adaptors, Sidelock / Weldon holders and ER collet holders from
them.

Steve Larner


"Peter A Forbes" <diesel@easynet.co.uk> wrote in message
news:vvsk01tbrojf7cvqppli7hdrtelljlj5fb@4ax.com...
> Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for
> some
> 30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and
> 2ES) but
> sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!
>
> Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems
> that
> there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the
> drawbar
> thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.
>
> Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using
> one or
> t'other??
>
> Peter
>
> --
> Peter & Rita Forbes
> Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
> Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

mark
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
>
> If you look at how much of that stuff you would actually use, it
seems to me to
> be a bit pricey, you can't use them all at once :-))
>
> I did see them but kept out as the prices were rising quite sharply,
always a
> bad sign....
>
> I'm chasing another lot locally, so if I get any spares, I'll give
you a shout.
> I will also be talking to Tim leech about his bits on offer as well
:-))
>
> I will have to check on the beer token stocks!
>
> Peter
>
> --
> Peter & Rita Forbes
> Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
> Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Thankyou Peter.
think I nead
The QC ones .ones with the single collar on.
I dont know really but ..think I would rather have ...because "I think
anyway"
one with a Morse one taper... one with a Morse two taper and one with a
Morse three taper ..rather than using sleaves .....do you think this
will be more accurate than sleves or am I being toooo fussy.
Also nead at least two more collet chucks......so that I can make
full use of quick change and have all the chucks lined up with drills,
pilot drills and reamers etc.
also one with an Albrect hand tighten chuck.
then I nead a full set of collets...not sure but I think most of them
take DA180 collets.
also the collet chucks have to have the little loose threaded things
inside, to secure endmills with threaded shanks.
also handy would be a flycutter one.
lol.......you can see this list could get very long ....so I'll settle
for some of them for now ....
Anyone else who has any of the above give me a shout........cheap
please.....ebay is getting to be beyond a joke.
oh btw ...I live in Prestatyn North Wales..so the nearer the
better.....
I've just got hold of some "brand new" very-shiny David Brown
adjustable reamers with vernier adjustment.......these would make a
nice swap.
all the best.....mark

Mark Rand
Feb 09, 2005, 06:11 PM
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 20:40:50 +0000 (UTC), Peter A Forbes <diesel@easynet.co.uk>
wrote:

>Having just bought the Beaver turret mill, I am now on the lookout for some
>30Int tooling for it. I have loads of 40Int for the A&S mills (1ES and 2ES) but
>sod's law says I have to get a vertical with something different!
>
>Talking with John S about the differences between 30Int and BT30, it seems that
>there isn't a huge difference, only the rear parallel section with the drawbar
>thread on the 30Int whereby the BT30 has only a straight taper body.
>
>Any thoughts/experiences from users on the merits (or otherwise) of using one or
>t'other??
>
>Peter

I was hoping that you two between you would come up with the idea of making a
new spindle :-).

The details I got from tiny Griffiths at http://www.lathes.co.uk seem to
indicate that the only difference is in the spindle nose itself. Could one
make an INT40 adapter to bolt onto the end of an INT30 spindle in place of the
driving dogs?


Mark Rand
RTFM

Peter A Forbes
Feb 10, 2005, 02:11 AM
On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 23:51:08 +0000, Mark Rand <randm@internettie.co.uk> wrote:


>I was hoping that you two between you would come up with the idea of making a
>new spindle :-).
>
>The details I got from tiny Griffiths at http://www.lathes.co.uk seem to
>indicate that the only difference is in the spindle nose itself. Could one
>make an INT40 adapter to bolt onto the end of an INT30 spindle in place of the
>driving dogs?
>
>
>Mark Rand

Presumably it wouldn't be too difficult to make a new nose? At the worst it
would be a few beer tokens...

I did mention this to John S, but at the time I hadn't actually got the machine
and we did discuss the ins and outs of converting the existing one if it were to
be 30Int. A lot were supplied with 40Int which was an option apparently.

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Prepair Ltd
Feb 11, 2005, 06:11 AM
On 9 Feb 2005 14:35:24 -0800, "mark" <aboard_epsilon@yahoo.com> wrote:


>Agggh..not another person to compete with ..
>need some of the stuff myself .
>only have one collet chuck and four collets so far..
>I was going to bid on this little lot ......but when it said bid £190
>to "WIN" in the last 30 seconds I changed my mind ..
>still wondering if I should have bid..see below.
>
>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871514656&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
>
>anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout...
>all the best...mark

I'll be going to have a look at some stuff on the weekend at a
dealer's place, I'll post here if there is anything significant that
we could maybe do a 'bulk buy' on, rather than individually.


Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
prepair@easynet.co.uk
http://www.prepair.co.uk

mark
Feb 11, 2005, 08:11 AM
OK that's great Peter...I will be watching this space.
all the best........mark

Mark Rand
Feb 11, 2005, 12:11 PM
On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:59:20 +0000, Prepair Ltd <prepair@easynet.co.uk> wrote:

>On 9 Feb 2005 14:35:24 -0800, "mark" <aboard_epsilon@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Agggh..not another person to compete with ..
>>need some of the stuff myself .
>>only have one collet chuck and four collets so far..
>>I was going to bid on this little lot ......but when it said bid £190
>>to "WIN" in the last 30 seconds I changed my mind ..
>>still wondering if I should have bid..see below.
>>
>>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871514656&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
>>
>>anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout...
>>all the best...mark
>
>I'll be going to have a look at some stuff on the weekend at a
>dealer's place, I'll post here if there is anything significant that
>we could maybe do a 'bulk buy' on, rather than individually.
>
>
>Peter

How do I explain this to SWMBO?

regards
Mark Rand
RTFM

Peter A Forbes
Feb 12, 2005, 02:11 AM
On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 17:29:20 +0000, Mark Rand <randm@internettie.co.uk> wrote:

>How do I explain this to SWMBO?
>
>regards
>Mark Rand
>RTFM

You don't, it just gets sneaked indoors when she isn't looking!

That's what the rest of us do....

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Tom
Feb 12, 2005, 02:11 AM
Peter A Forbes wrote:
>
> On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 17:29:20 +0000, Mark Rand <randm@internettie.co.uk> wrote:
>
> >How do I explain this to SWMBO?
> >
> >regards
> >Mark Rand
> >RTFM
>
> You don't, it just gets sneaked indoors when she isn't looking!
>
> That's what the rest of us do....
>
> Peter
>
> --
> Peter & Rita Forbes
> Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
> Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Hang on a minute, mate. Some of us enjoy a full & frank relationship
with our wives! :-)
Workshop equipment is designated as labour saving devices and as such
needs to be updated regularly, so that outdated equipment doesn't cause
overly prolonged absences from our good ladies" company..
Sound plausible? Works for me. :-)

Tom

Airy R.Bean
Feb 12, 2005, 04:11 AM
If your wife is "Frank", then I won't be bending over forwards
to help you! (But should a married couple be Frank and Earnest?)

"Tom" <tmartin@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:420EC824.622CCD95@xtra.co.nz...
> Hang on a minute, mate. Some of us enjoy a full & frank relationship
> with our wives! :-)

Prepair Ltd
Feb 12, 2005, 06:11 AM
On Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:59:20 +0000, Prepair Ltd
<prepair@easynet.co.uk> wrote:

>On 9 Feb 2005 14:35:24 -0800, "mark" <aboard_epsilon@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Agggh..not another person to compete with ..
>>need some of the stuff myself .
>>only have one collet chuck and four collets so far..
>>I was going to bid on this little lot ......but when it said bid £190
>>to "WIN" in the last 30 seconds I changed my mind ..
>>still wondering if I should have bid..see below.
>>
>>http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=3871514656&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
>>
>>anyone got some of this stuff cheap...give me a shout...
>>all the best...mark
>
>I'll be going to have a look at some stuff on the weekend at a
>dealer's place, I'll post here if there is anything significant that
>we could maybe do a 'bulk buy' on, rather than individually.
>
>
>Peter

OK, went over to High Wycombe this morning early, to miss the traffic.

Found our man OK and he showed me a cupboard with lots of assorted
tooling, mostly 40Int but a lot of 30Int as well.

I selected a 'small pile' of 8 holders, comprising:

1 Clarkson Autolock with 9 collets and an adaptor nose for 1/4" shank
tools.
2 MT adaptors, one 3MT one 2MT
2 shell cutter arbors (different sized parallel shanks)
1 shell cutter holder with cutter in place, albeit a bit worn!
1 Acramill collet holder with 1 expanding collet fitted.
1 Box of 36 expanding collets and the holder to go with them.

I thought that was a reasonable collection to start with, and I paid
enough money so that he was happy enough for me to go back again to
buy more if required.

He will deal with private buyers, and is open most Saturday mornings.
It is a small one-man busines with a couple of helpers, and the prices
for the machinery he had seemed quite reasonable compared with some
London dealers, but that's my opinion....

He does have some 30MT to large Clarkson collet tools there, a couple
if I remember correctly, and there were other boxes that I didn't look
into.

Contact me off-list for his details if you want to contact him direct.


Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
prepair@easynet.co.uk
http://www.prepair.co.uk

Tom
Feb 12, 2005, 08:11 PM
Peter Sheppard wrote:
..................................
> 4. I could use 2 x 12v batteries, even 4 x 12v batteries, but I would
> like a way of recharging them. How about putting a cheap generator (£60
> these days for a 850W and a 12v output) in one of the seats (suitable
> soundproofed) with fans for cooling etc. to charge the batteries when
> the vehicle is idling. Can you have the batteries, effectively in
> parallel for charging, but in series for the motors?
>
> So many questions, but at least they are all ME related!
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
>
Addressing just the one point.
Mercedes Benz trucks (60-70s) had a parallel-series switch connected
to the batteries that switched the 12v system to 24v only for starting..
A visit to a truck "breaker" might be fruitful.

Tom

Peter A Forbes
Feb 12, 2005, 08:11 PM
On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 09:19:47 -0800, Tom <tmartin@xtra.co.nz> wrote:

>Addressing just the one point.
>Mercedes Benz trucks (60-70s) had a parallel-series switch connected
>to the batteries that switched the 12v system to 24v only for starting..
>A visit to a truck "breaker" might be fruitful.
>
>Tom

Yup, the Mercedes 680D with the OM 4-cylinder engine was a case in point, we had
one at the lighting company I worked for all those years ago, drove it down to
the Greek Islands for a fdilm and back again....

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Peter A Forbes
Feb 12, 2005, 08:11 PM
On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 19:52:07 GMT, Peter Sheppard
<peter@nospampuffer-nutter.co.uk> wrote:
Can you have the batteries, effectively in
>parallel for charging, but in series for the motors?

Changing my hat to battery charger manufacturer:

Charging batteries in series is fine as long as certain requirements are met,
and constant current charging is best, thus ensuring that all cells get the
current through them, but it does need monitoring. Constant voltage is fine but
you will probably need to equalise the cells every so often as they will get out
of charge balance with each other.

Charging batteries in parallel is a bit of a no-no, as you cannot guarantee that
each battery is going to receive the charge it needs. Also, it is possible for
batteries in parallel to 'cycle-down' by interbattery discharging, so steering
diodes are 'usually' fitted into series-parallel battery banks.

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Tim Leech
Feb 13, 2005, 04:11 AM
On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 11:41:10 +0000, Prepair Ltd
<prepair@easynet.co.uk> wrote:

>
>He does have some 30MT to large Clarkson collet tools there, a couple
>if I remember correctly, and there were other boxes that I didn't look
>into.

Peter

Are these *large* (ie up to 1 1/4", & quite rare in 30 int) or Medium
(up to 1", much more common, but for some reason often come with
metric collets only) ??

I wouldn't mind picking up a Large Autolock in 30 int, I've got one
but it's been in a severe crash & the shank is bent. No it wasn't me
<BG>.

Also I want a small autolock in QC30, you can tell these because
there's a driving collar distinct from the main body, whereas the
ordinary 30int autolock just has slots in the body. Either that, or
imperial collets for the anonymous collet holders I do have. I think
these are similar to the old C type clarkson, they have in effect a
driving peg at the threaded end of the collet rather than the flanged
end of the S type.

Not sure what you mean by expanding collets in this context?

Cheers
Tim

Dutton Dry-Dock
Traditional & Modern canal craft repairs
Vintage diesel engine service

Peter A Forbes
Feb 13, 2005, 06:12 AM
On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 09:46:32 +0000, Tim Leech <duttondock@onetel.com> wrote:

>On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 11:41:10 +0000, Prepair Ltd
><prepair@easynet.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>
>>He does have some 30MT to large Clarkson collet tools there, a couple
>>if I remember correctly, and there were other boxes that I didn't look
>>into.
>
>Peter
>
>Are these *large* (ie up to 1 1/4", & quite rare in 30 int) or Medium
>(up to 1", much more common, but for some reason often come with
>metric collets only) ??

I wasn't measuring at the time, just noticed them. There were also a couple of
flycutters, one of which I'll probably take later.

>I wouldn't mind picking up a Large Autolock in 30 int, I've got one
>but it's been in a severe crash & the shank is bent. No it wasn't me
><BG>.

We believe you !! :-))

>Also I want a small autolock in QC30, you can tell these because
>there's a driving collar distinct from the main body, whereas the
>ordinary 30int autolock just has slots in the body. Either that, or
>imperial collets for the anonymous collet holders I do have. I think
>these are similar to the old C type clarkson, they have in effect a
>driving peg at the threaded end of the collet rather than the flanged
>end of the S type.

I didn't have a long sort through as Les had already dug out a small selection
before I got there.

>Not sure what you mean by expanding collets in this context?

Like the R8 collets on this auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=25294&item=3872711517

>Cheers
>Tim

I left my spanner for the Clarkson behind, so I will be going back again. Let me
have a wish list and I'll see what I can pick up.

The bl**dy cat was underneath my desk on my first attempt to reply, but she trod
on the mains surge arrestor/distribution board switch and cut the supply to the
pc's and network!

Ever seen a cat fly? boot propelled :-))

Peter

--
Peter & Rita Forbes
Email: diesel@easynet.co.uk
Web: http://www.oldengine.org/members/diesel

Airy R.Bean
Feb 13, 2005, 12:12 PM
I thought that "Stumpy" had hydraulic control for forward/reverse?

"Peter Sheppard" <peter@nospampuffer-nutter.co.uk> wrote in message
news:H7tPd.70073$B8.2233@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk ...
>> 1. The electric motors have hydraulic pumps attached. How complicated
> would it be to make it hydraulic drive (I've never played with this, so
> it's a steep learning curve). Who does hydraulic kit? What will I
> need? (How expensive is it compared to other drives?)

Peter Sheppard
Feb 13, 2005, 02:12 PM
The website is live!!!

Have a look at www.lmandwr.co.uk

Cheers

Peter

Peter Sheppard
Feb 13, 2005, 02:12 PM
Airy R.Bean wrote:

> I thought that "Stumpy" had hydraulic control for forward/reverse?
>
> "Peter Sheppard" <peter@nospampuffer-nutter.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:H7tPd.70073$B8.2233@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk ...
>
>>> 1. The electric motors have hydraulic pumps attached. How
>>> complicated
>>
>> would it be to make it hydraulic drive (I've never played with
>> this, so it's a steep learning curve). Who does hydraulic kit?
>> What will I need? (How expensive is it compared to other drives?)
>
Stumpy does, but it is all nicely contained in an "Eaton" unit. I have
a lever that you move forward to go forward and back to go back!

What I am proposing is a hydraulic pump, motor, valves, filters,
reservoir et. etc. I don't know what I need and I was hoping that
someone had been down this route before!

Cheers

Peter

Tom
Feb 13, 2005, 02:12 PM
Peter Sheppard wrote:
>
> Airy R.Bean wrote:
>
> > I thought that "Stumpy" had hydraulic control for forward/reverse?
> >
> > "Peter Sheppard" <peter@nospampuffer-nutter.co.uk> wrote in message
> > news:H7tPd.70073$B8.2233@fe3.news.blueyonder.co.uk ...
> >
> >>> 1. The electric motors have hydraulic pumps attached. How
> >>> complicated
> >>
> >> would it be to make it hydraulic drive (I've never played with
> >> this, so it's a steep learning curve). Who does hydraulic kit?
> >> What will I need? (How expensive is it compared to other drives?)
> >
> Stumpy does, but it is all nicely contained in an "Eaton" unit. I have
> a lever that you move forward to go forward and back to go back!
>
> What I am proposing is a hydraulic pump, motor, valves, filters,
> reservoir et. etc. I don't know what I need and I was hoping that
> someone had been down this route before!
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter

First we need to throw a few things over the calculator..

What's required is the rated capacity of the pumps:
GPM at what pressure and what type of pump are they?
Are the motors rated for continuous use or intermittent?
What would be the estimated hp (at the drivers) needed for
tractive effort?
What diameter wheels and top speed required?

Tom

Kevin Steele
Feb 13, 2005, 06:11 PM
Nice site, but somebody shoot that bloody pheasent!

Regards

Kevin


On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 18:29:30 GMT, Peter Sheppard
<peter@nospampuffer-nutter.co.uk> wrote:

>The website is live!!!
>
>Have a look at www.lmandwr.co.uk
>
>Cheers
>
>Peter

Peter Sheppard
Feb 16, 2005, 08:11 PM
Tom wrote:


>>What I am proposing is a hydraulic pump, motor, valves, filters,
>>reservoir et. etc. I don't know what I need and I was hoping that
>>someone had been down this route before!
>>
>>Cheers
>>
>>Peter
>
>
> First we need to throw a few things over the calculator..
>
> What's required is the rated capacity of the pumps:
> GPM at what pressure and what type of pump are they?
> Are the motors rated for continuous use or intermittent?
> What would be the estimated hp (at the drivers) needed for
> tractive effort?
> What diameter wheels and top speed required?
>
> Tom

Apologies for the delay, the day job took me away for a couple of days!

Rated Capacity - haven't a clue. They are bolted on the end of a
Lansing Bagnall motor. The motor is rated at 4.5HP for 10 minutes at
2800 rpm. They are Dowty with the reference 3013 C TDTB. (I can't find
anything with that reference on the web).

(GPM - gallons per minute?)

The hydraulic motors I am looking at are reversible and rated at, 650
RPM @ 6.5 GPM (25 LPM), 2750 psi max. operating pressure, 733 in-lb of
torque.

The wheels are around 5", so at top RPM would give a max speed of
9.7mph, so that's not unreasonable.

What would the hydraulic circuit look like? Pump, reservoir?, valves to
direct the flow forward/reverse? I assume that all you do is reverse
the feed, so there needs to be a return path?

Cheers

Peter

Tom
Feb 17, 2005, 04:12 AM
Peter Sheppard wrote:
>
> Tom wrote:
>
> >>What I am proposing is a hydraulic pump, motor, valves, filters,
> >>reservoir et. etc. I don't know what I need and I was hoping that
> >>someone had been down this route before!
> >>
> >>Cheers
> >>
> >>Peter
> >
> >
> > First we need to throw a few things over the calculator..
> >
> > What's required is the rated capacity of the pumps:
> > GPM at what pressure and what type of pump are they?
> > Are the motors rated for continuous use or intermittent?
> > What would be the estimated hp (at the drivers) needed for
> > tractive effort?
> > What diameter wheels and top speed required?
> >
> > Tom
>
> Apologies for the delay, the day job took me away for a couple of days!
>
> Rated Capacity - haven't a clue. They are bolted on the end of a
> Lansing Bagnall motor. The motor is rated at 4.5HP for 10 minutes at
> 2800 rpm. They are Dowty with the reference 3013 C TDTB. (I can't find
> anything with that reference on the web).
>
> (GPM - gallons per minute?)
>
> The hydraulic motors I am looking at are reversible and rated at, 650
> RPM @ 6.5 GPM (25 LPM), 2750 psi max. operating pressure, 733 in-lb of
> torque.
>
> The wheels are around 5", so at top RPM would give a max speed of
> 9.7mph, so that's not unreasonable.
>
> What would the hydraulic circuit look like? Pump, reservoir?, valves to
> direct the flow forward/reverse? I assume that all you do is reverse
> the feed, so there needs to be a return path?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter

At 24V, sounds like they are are out of an electric pallet truck..

Bit of a mismatch though, as the electric motor equates to 3.36 kw and
the hyd/motors at full capacity at 5.54 kw.

Doing the calcs, the pump @ 2750 psi, delivers 10.62 litres so
falling short of maximising the performance of the hyd/motors,
at 276 rpm.

A problem with using intermittent duty motors, is the off duty cycle
delay while they return to ambient temperature.

Apart from what you list above, a flow control valve in the circuit
would allow smooth takeoffs.

Tom

Prepair Ltd
Feb 17, 2005, 04:12 AM
On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 11:41:10 +0000, Prepair Ltd
<prepair@easynet.co.uk> wrote:

>I selected a 'small pile' of 8 holders, comprising:
>
>1 Clarkson Autolock with 9 collets and an adaptor nose for 1/4" shank
>tools.
>2 MT adaptors, one 3MT one 2MT
>2 shell cutter arbors (different sized parallel shanks)
>1 shell cutter holder with cutter in place, albeit a bit worn!
>1 Acramill collet holder with 1 expanding collet fitted.
>1 Box of 36 expanding collets and the holder to go with them.

I had another look through the box last night, and the expanding
collets are Erickson DA or Double Angle types, of 3 body size ranges,
and the holder is for the largest. The smallest is the type that goes
into the extension holders that Kennametal make.

I'll be looking out for the next sized holder down when I go back to
see Les.

The sheel cutter holder with cutter in place was the smallest Clarkson
Dedlock holder.

Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
prepair@easynet.co.uk
http://www.prepair.co.uk

puffernutter
Feb 17, 2005, 08:11 AM
<snip>
> > Rated Capacity - haven't a clue. They are bolted on the end of a
> > Lansing Bagnall motor. The motor is rated at 4.5HP for 10 minutes
at
> > 2800 rpm. They are Dowty with the reference 3013 C TDTB. (I can't
find
> > anything with that reference on the web).
> >
> > (GPM - gallons per minute?)
> >
> > The hydraulic motors I am looking at are reversible and rated at,
650
> > RPM @ 6.5 GPM (25 LPM), 2750 psi max. operating pressure, 733 in-lb
of
> > torque.
> >
> > The wheels are around 5", so at top RPM would give a max speed of
> > 9.7mph, so that's not unreasonable.
> >
<snip>
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Peter
>
> At 24V, sounds like they are are out of an electric pallet truck..
>
> Bit of a mismatch though, as the electric motor equates to 3.36 kw
and
> the hyd/motors at full capacity at 5.54 kw.
>
> Doing the calcs, the pump @ 2750 psi, delivers 10.62 litres so
> falling short of maximising the performance of the hyd/motors,
> at 276 rpm.
>
> A problem with using intermittent duty motors, is the off duty cycle
> delay while they return to ambient temperature.
>
> Apart from what you list above, a flow control valve in the circuit
> would allow smooth takeoffs.
>
> Tom

Tom,

Thanks for that. How have you quoted the flow from the pump? Is that
based on the kW of the electric motor? If you have found details of
the pump, could you point me to them?

With regard to cooling. The run (at present) is at most 5 minutes and
not all of that will be on full load, so the 10 minute 4.5HP max rating
shouldn't be a problem.

If your figures are correct, should I look at a 2:1 step up between the
motor and the axle (as you seem to predict that I will only achieve 50%
of the rated output)?

They are Lansing Bagnall "badged" motors, I was told that they came
from a stacker truck (but that was un-corroborated).

I was going to control the speed of the electric motor to control the
speed, would I still need a flow control valve?

Cheers

Peter

Tom
Feb 17, 2005, 04:11 PM
puffernutter wrote:
>
> <snip>
> > > Rated Capacity - haven't a clue. They are bolted on the end of a
> > > Lansing Bagnall motor. The motor is rated at 4.5HP for 10 minutes
> at
> > > 2800 rpm. They are Dowty with the reference 3013 C TDTB. (I can't
> find
> > > anything with that reference on the web).
> > >
> > > (GPM - gallons per minute?)
> > >
> > > The hydraulic motors I am looking at are reversible and rated at,
> 650
> > > RPM @ 6.5 GPM (25 LPM), 2750 psi max. operating pressure, 733 in-lb
> of
> > > torque.
> > >
> > > The wheels are around 5", so at top RPM would give a max speed of
> > > 9.7mph, so that's not unreasonable.
> > >
> <snip>
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > >
> > > Peter
> >
> > At 24V, sounds like they are are out of an electric pallet truck..
> >
> > Bit of a mismatch though, as the electric motor equates to 3.36 kw
> and
> > the hyd/motors at full capacity at 5.54 kw.
> >
> > Doing the calcs, the pump @ 2750 psi, delivers 10.62 litres so
> > falling short of maximising the performance of the hyd/motors,
> > at 276 rpm.
> >
> > A problem with using intermittent duty motors, is the off duty cycle
> > delay while they return to ambient temperature.
> >
> > Apart from what you list above, a flow control valve in the circuit
> > would allow smooth takeoffs.
> >
> > Tom
>
> Tom,
>
> Thanks for that. How have you quoted the flow from the pump? Is that
> based on the kW of the electric motor? If you have found details of
> the pump, could you point me to them?
>
> With regard to cooling. The run (at present) is at most 5 minutes and
> not all of that will be on full load, so the 10 minute 4.5HP max rating
> shouldn't be a problem.
>
> If your figures are correct, should I look at a 2:1 step up between the
> motor and the axle (as you seem to predict that I will only achieve 50%
> of the rated output)?
>
> They are Lansing Bagnall "badged" motors, I was told that they came
> from a stacker truck (but that was un-corroborated).
>
> I was going to control the speed of the electric motor to control the
> speed, would I still need a flow control valve?
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter

Yes, I worked on the hp & psi to get the flow, however I might be
a trifle high on the flow as I later found some for sale that were
listed at 200 bar.
No free lunches with hydraulics, so you will have to gear up, if you
want that speed.. Of course this carries the caveat of torque reduction
at the drivers.
If you can control the electric motor that would eliminate the
flow control valve. All you need now is a open centre motor
control valve. These have a motoring spool that will allow the
motor to free wheel in neutral. Whereas a conventional valve would
stop the motor when in neutral, however, considering the flows involved
you possibly could use one and gain the benefit of using it to provide
braking.

Tom

Jonathan Barnes
Feb 18, 2005, 04:11 PM
Subject: Re: Build 'em big!


> I am not sure where Tom got the figures for the pump from.

Probably used a formula like

P=V(dot) p
where P is power, V(dot) is volumetric flow rate and P is pressure.
throw in a fudge factor for pump efficiency.

The problem is the formula only works if you use a consistent set of units
( metric , use power in whats, volume flow in cubic meters per second and
pressure in pascals )


> I chose a motor (very simply) to have a higher capacity than the pump,
> so I could be sure I wouldn't strain the motor. (It was also cheap(ish)
> on ebay)

Unless you have a spare pump I would go the other way round, motors are
cheaper than pumps, and electric overload protection is fairly cheap and
simple.


> I plan to make a railcar with it. It will be double ended with one
> hydraulic "power pack" (24v dc motor + pump) driving one hydraulic
> motor.

When you say double ended do you mean a pack etc at each end ?


The railcar will carry up to 8 people (including driver), so a
> maximum load of say half a ton (maybe slightly more if I have 8 average
> adults!) ? Maximum gradient, not measured but probably 1:60 to 1:70.

8 x 70 = 560 kg, batteries 4 x 30 = 120, reservoir, pump motor 100 ? chassis
and wheels, 100 ? total weight 900 kg

Lets allow a 1:20 gradient, 2% rolling resistance, at 10 mph.

tractive force = ( 900 / 20 + 900 x 0.02 ) x 9.81 = 620 N

speed ( 10 mph ) = 4.47 m/s

delivered power = 2.8 kW ( = 3.7 Hp )

to allow for getting up to speed you will need a bit more, say 5 Hp.

If I'm right about the efficiency of hydraulic pumps and motors you would
need a very big electric motor ( 50 Hp ?? )

Anyone got figures on hydraulic efficiency ??

At 733 lbin working a 5" wheel you have 293 lbf ( = 1300 N ) available from
a single motor, but you only need about 800 N to provide reasonable
acceleration, so about 2/3 of the maximum pressure will be needed to run the
motor, or 1/3 if two motors are being used.

>
> I also plan to make two railcars and using the latest control gear from
> Cromar White, operate them in multiple if necessary.
>
> I was planning on controlling the speed of the train by controlling the
> speed of the dc motor (and thus the flow rate). Is that feasible?
>
Power electronics are quite expensive in comparison to hydraulic
restrictors, but restrictors make a system very inefficient.

When you start looking at the detail you realise why about the only vehicles
that use hydraulic drives are diggers ( they only need to move a little
every now and then, and already have a hefty hydraulic system they don't
need to use for digging when on the move ).


> Cheers
>
> Peter
>
> Jonathan Barnes wrote:
>
> > From: "puffernutter" <peter@puffer-nutter.co.uk>
> >
> >>>>The hydraulic motors I am looking at are reversible and rated at,
> >>
> >>650
> >>
> >>>>RPM @ 6.5 GPM (25 LPM), 2750 psi max. operating pressure, 733 in-lb
> >>
> >>of
> >>
> >>>>torque.
> >>>>
> >>>>The wheels are around 5", so at top RPM would give a max speed of
> >>>>9.7mph, so that's not unreasonable.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have been looking at the figures.
> >
> > The pump is a low flow high pressure design, good for rams, bad for
motors.
> >
> > the motors running together at full speed need 13 g/min =59 l.
> >
> > at the rated max pressure they would each generate 293 lb of thrust...
> > Unless this train is to be a model of an alpine rack railway.....
> >
> > What you will need is a high flow pump giving a relatively low pressure.
> >
> > What will the train's weight ( including payload ) be, and what's the
> > maximum gradient it will need to climb ?
> >
> > Hydraulic drives are very inefficient... I may not be remembering
correctly
> > but AIR, 30% for both pump and motor gave an overall efficiency of about
10%
> > on one system I speced out .
> >
> > controlling speed by controlling the pump is possible, but many motors
do
not
> > take kindly to being run slow as they rely on a shaft driven fan for
> > cooling.
> >
> > basic circuit is supply to valve from pump, double return from valve to
> > reservoir, two lines each split with a T to each motor.
> >
> > Valve needs to swap direction, with a free return as it's central
position.
> >
> > Hydraulic systems tend to cost a lot... factor in the cost of lines and
> > fittings.
> >
> > Your pump may have an integral relief valve.. if not you will need one.
> >
> >
> > Jonathan
> >
> > Barnes's theorem; for every foolproof device
> > there is a fool greater than the proof.
> >
> > To reply remove AT
Jonathan

Barnes's theorem; for every foolproof device
there is a fool greater than the proof.

To reply remove AT

Tom
Feb 18, 2005, 04:11 PM
Jonathan Barnes wrote:
>
> Subject: Re: Build 'em big!
>
> > I am not sure where Tom got the figures for the pump from.
>
> Probably used a formula like
>
> P=V(dot) p
> where P is power, V(dot) is volumetric flow rate and P is pressure.
> throw in a fudge factor for pump efficiency.
>
> The problem is the formula only works if you use a consistent set of units
> ( metric , use power in whats, volume flow in cubic meters per second and
> pressure in pascals )

"volume flow in cubic meters per second" Yeah right..

Prepair Ltd
Feb 19, 2005, 04:13 AM
On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 07:56:31 -0800, Tom <tmartin@xtra.co.nz> wrote:

>Jonathan Barnes wrote:
>>
>> Subject: Re: Build 'em big!
>>
>> > I am not sure where Tom got the figures for the pump from.
>>
>> Probably used a formula like
>>
>> P=V(dot) p
>> where P is power, V(dot) is volumetric flow rate and P is pressure.
>> throw in a fudge factor for pump efficiency.
>>
>> The problem is the formula only works if you use a consistent set of units
>> ( metric , use power in whats, volume flow in cubic meters per second and
>> pressure in pascals )
>
> "volume flow in cubic meters per second" Yeah right..

Power in 'whats' !!

Mr Watt must be turning in his grave...:-))


Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
prepair@easynet.co.uk
http://www.prepair.co.uk

Jonathan Barnes
Feb 19, 2005, 10:11 AM
> Power in 'whats' !!
>
> Mr Watt must be turning in his grave...:-))
>
>
> Peter

Dyslexia ???? strikes again K.O.

apologies to Mr Watt


--
Jonathan

Barnes's theorem; for every foolproof device
there is a fool greater than the proof.

To reply remove AT

puffernutter
Feb 21, 2005, 06:11 AM
Oh I hate it when a plan suffers perpendicular mammary syndrome!

The nice man from Linde (the new name for Lansing Bagnall) got back in
touch with me. As you (correctly) surmised, it isn't one of the
biggest pumps in the world! It is rated at 1.28GPM at 1500rpm (motor
full speed is 2800 rpm). Minimum speed is 650rpm and it has a maximum
pressure of 3000psi (he seemed to remember pressure relief set at
2400psi).

Looks like I have a limping tram as the motors I have need 6.5GPM for
650rpm!

Do you know any sources of cheap hydraulic pumps in the UK? I'd like
to stick with the hydraulic idea if I can (after all I've bought the
hydraulic motors now!).

Cheers

Peter

Prepair Ltd
Feb 21, 2005, 06:11 AM
On 21 Feb 2005 03:09:53 -0800, "puffernutter"
<peter@puffer-nutter.co.uk> wrote:

>Oh I hate it when a plan suffers perpendicular mammary syndrome!
>
>The nice man from Linde (the new name for Lansing Bagnall) got back in
>touch with me. As you (correctly) surmised, it isn't one of the
>biggest pumps in the world! It is rated at 1.28GPM at 1500rpm (motor
>full speed is 2800 rpm). Minimum speed is 650rpm and it has a maximum
>pressure of 3000psi (he seemed to remember pressure relief set at
>2400psi).
>
>Looks like I have a limping tram as the motors I have need 6.5GPM for
>650rpm!
>
>Do you know any sources of cheap hydraulic pumps in the UK? I'd like
>to stick with the hydraulic idea if I can (after all I've bought the
>hydraulic motors now!).
>
>Cheers
>
>Peter

Talk to Peter Smith, he buys and sells a lot of ex-mod stuff and his
auctions have has Plessey and similar pumps on there, he may well have
something unsold.

I'll email you off-list with his details

Peter
--
Peter A Forbes
Prepair Ltd, Luton, UK
prepair@easynet.co.uk
http://www.prepair.co.uk

Airy R.Bean
Feb 21, 2005, 08:11 AM
Modelling the prototype HST 1.25 (Horribly Slow Tram)?

"puffernutter" <peter@puffer-nutter.co.uk> wrote in message
news:1108984193.244136.31470@g14g2000cwa.googlegro ups.com...
> Looks like I have a limping tram as the motors I have need 6.5GPM for

Tom
Feb 21, 2005, 12:11 PM
puffernutter wrote:
>
> Oh I hate it when a plan suffers perpendicular mammary syndrome!
>
> The nice man from Linde (the new name for Lansing Bagnall) got back in
> touch with me. As you (correctly) surmised, it isn't one of the
> biggest pumps in the world! It is rated at 1.28GPM at 1500rpm (motor
> full speed is 2800 rpm). Minimum speed is 650rpm and it has a maximum
> pressure of 3000psi (he seemed to remember pressure relief set at
> 2400psi).
>
> Looks like I have a limping tram as the motors I have need 6.5GPM for
> 650rpm!
>
> Do you know any sources of cheap hydraulic pumps in the UK? I'd like
> to stick with the hydraulic idea if I can (after all I've bought the
> hydraulic motors now!).
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter

I've several n shed, but postage would be a bugger. However don't
forget, there's no free lunches and to drive bigger pumps, you'll
need bigger motors..

Tom

Corium
May 16, 2008, 05:29 PM
I too have an ISO/Int 30 mill and to make it worse it also has an horizontal spindle which is ISO 40. I have lots of ISO 40 stuff - and (now)enough ISO 30 stuff. The thought of dangling a 30/40 adapter from the machine nose would, I think give a huge overhang and make the machine near useless. A new spindle may be a non-starter considering the complication (mine has power downfeed to the ISO 30 quill). 30 size is quite dinky but it handles the power OK - in my case an adapter for the horizontal spindle would make more sense - go down in size to 30.
Why not make your own 30 stuff - I have converted a GMT boring/ facing head by making a replacement arbor in the 30 size -it was ISO40. I also have a home brewed adapter from ISO30 to 5 Morse - used very carefully and only with drills - the headroom is really limited but it did the job.

Tim Leech
May 17, 2008, 02:51 AM
On Fri, 16 May 2008 17:29:32 -0500, Corium
<Corium.39iyon@rcgroups.com> wrote:

>
>I too have an ISO/Int 30 mill and to make it worse it also has an
>horizontal spindle which is ISO 40. I have lots of ISO 40 stuff - and
>(now)enough ISO 30 stuff. The thought of dangling a 30/40 adapter from
>the machine nose would, I think give a huge overhang and make the
>machine near useless. A new spindle may be a non-starter considering the
>complication (mine has power downfeed to the ISO 30 quill). 30 size is
>quite dinky but it handles the power OK - in my case an adapter for the
>horizontal spindle would make more sense - go down in size to 30.
>Why not make your own 30 stuff - I have converted a GMT boring/ facing
>head by making a replacement arbor in the 30 size -it was ISO40.

What mill is that? My Elliott Omnimil is the same, though the spindle
on the vertical head looks quite meaty enough to take a 40 taper,
I have turned down a couple of 40 taper items to 30, with reasonable
success.

>I also
>have a home brewed adapter from ISO30 to 5 Morse - used very carefully
>and only with drills - the headroom is really limited but it did the
>job.

That sounds a bit alarming! I've got a 30 to 4 morse adapter, that's
bad enough!


Tim

Charles Ping
May 17, 2008, 05:11 AM
On Sat, 17 May 2008 08:51:26 +0100, Tim Leech
<duttondock@onetel.no.spam.com> wrote:

>On Fri, 16 May 2008 17:29:32 -0500, Corium
><Corium.39iyon@rcgroups.com> wrote:
>
>>
>>I too have an ISO/Int 30 mill and to make it worse it also has an
>>horizontal spindle which is ISO 40. I have lots of ISO 40 stuff - and
>>(now)enough ISO 30 stuff. The thought of dangling a 30/40 adapter from
>>the machine nose would, I think give a huge overhang and make the
>>machine near useless. A new spindle may be a non-starter considering the
>>complication (mine has power downfeed to the ISO 30 quill). 30 size is
>>quite dinky but it handles the power OK - in my case an adapter for the
>>horizontal spindle would make more sense - go down in size to 30.
>>Why not make your own 30 stuff - I have converted a GMT boring/ facing
>>head by making a replacement arbor in the 30 size -it was ISO40.
>
>What mill is that? My Elliott Omnimil is the same, though the spindle
>on the vertical head looks quite meaty enough to take a 40 taper,
>I have turned down a couple of 40 taper items to 30, with reasonable
>success.
>
>>I also
>>have a home brewed adapter from ISO30 to 5 Morse - used very carefully
>>and only with drills - the headroom is really limited but it did the
>>job.
>
>That sounds a bit alarming! I've got a 30 to 4 morse adapter, that's
>bad enough!
>
>
>Tim


My Elliott UO has a 40 horizontal and 30 vertical. They did make a 40
vertical head for it - I know because I had one on an older model.

Charles