First Time Electric RC Truck......

[ephedralover@hotmail.com]

Been looking at getting into the RC hobby. Have a few friends with the
Traxxas gas trucks and all they do is tune them up. I figure an
electric will be my deal. Don't want to mess with rebuilding, gas,noise
etc. Just want to drive it in the dirt in my back yard and jump it a
little.

Is there a huge diff between the Traxxas E-Maxx and the Stampede? Is
the E-Maxx much faster?

Thanks

[Justin Mahn]

ephedralover@hotmail.com wrote:
> Been looking at getting into the RC hobby. Have a few friends with the
> Traxxas gas trucks and all they do is tune them up. I figure an
> electric will be my deal. Don't want to mess with rebuilding, gas,noise
> etc. Just want to drive it in the dirt in my back yard and jump it a
> little.
>
> Is there a huge diff between the Traxxas E-Maxx and the Stampede? Is
> the E-Maxx much faster?
>
> Thanks
>


The stamped is less maintenance, so I'd say it would be right up your
alley. Just pop in a new $20 motor whenever the old one starts to wear
down.

[walker]

<ephedralover@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1104799507.903495.273140@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> Been looking at getting into the RC hobby. Have a few friends with the
> Traxxas gas trucks and all they do is tune them up. I figure an
> electric will be my deal. Don't want to mess with rebuilding, gas,noise
> etc. Just want to drive it in the dirt in my back yard and jump it a
> little.
>
> Is there a huge diff between the Traxxas E-Maxx and the Stampede? Is
> the E-Maxx much faster?
>
> Thanks
>

They are in different classes. The 'Pede is an entry level vehicle made
for backyard fun and with the wealth of goodies available can be a club
racer of sorts. It has a ton of users so there is lots of info available.
The E-Max is a twin-motor, twin-battery kind of rig.Large and powerfull,
it also has a large user base along with a wealth of hop-ups and available
support. The downside to this truck is price. Not bad for the performance
mind you, It is just more truck.

If you can afford it, try to match your friends in terms of performance.
It will be more fun ;<)

[sbb78247]

walker wrote:
> <ephedralover@hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1104799507.903495.273140@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
>> Been looking at getting into the RC hobby. Have a few friends with
>> the Traxxas gas trucks and all they do is tune them up. I figure an
>> electric will be my deal. Don't want to mess with rebuilding,
>> gas,noise etc. Just want to drive it in the dirt in my back yard and
>> jump it a little.
>>
>> Is there a huge diff between the Traxxas E-Maxx and the Stampede? Is
>> the E-Maxx much faster?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>
> They are in different classes. The 'Pede is an entry level vehicle
> made for backyard fun and with the wealth of goodies available can be
> a club racer of sorts. It has a ton of users so there is lots of info
> available. The E-Max is a twin-motor, twin-battery kind of
> rig.Large and powerfull, it also has a large user base along with a
> wealth of hop-ups and available support. The downside to this truck
> is price. Not bad for the performance mind you, It is just more truck.
>
> If you can afford it, try to match your friends in terms of
> performance. It will be more fun ;<)

walker, I have to agree. What fun is it if you totally over power the
competition? There is not a whole lot of skill required. Kinda like the
guy that takes the 454 Chevy to race the stock 4 bangers. Who cares?

To the OP - If your friends have stock trucks, why not run the same? It
costs less, the maintenance is easier, and no one has hurt feelings. On the
other hand, if you like to win, nothing like the ace up the sleeve, right?
The 'pede is a good performer with the right combination of gears/motor,
while the nitro is more work but accomplishes the same. What are you up to
time v $ wise? That should be you deciding factor. Nitro is a lot of fun
if you put in the time.

S

[ephedralover@hotmail.com]

Thank for the replies. My buddies mostly spend way too much money on
their trucks IMO. Titanium chasis, etc. etc. From what they tell me
they all have close to $3K in their trucks. Im so not looking to get
into that area. And I won't be driving mine with theirs, just bashing
in the backyard with my kids, making a little dirt track with small
jumps etc. . No racing, or running side by side with the big boys.

I just want to avoid getting a truck that I will be bored with or be
disapointed with. But seeings how I have never owned one, im not sure
how this would happen if at all.

[sbb78247]

ephedralover@hotmail.com wrote:
> Thank for the replies. My buddies mostly spend way too much money on
> their trucks IMO. Titanium chasis, etc. etc. From what they tell me
> they all have close to $3K in their trucks. Im so not looking to get
> into that area. And I won't be driving mine with theirs, just bashing
> in the backyard with my kids, making a little dirt track with small
> jumps etc. . No racing, or running side by side with the big boys.
>
> I just want to avoid getting a truck that I will be bored with or be
> disapointed with. But seeings how I have never owned one, im not sure
> how this would happen if at all.
>

I thought that way too, but I jumped in head first and went with a nitro
first thing. For just bashing about it is a lot of fun, nothing real
serious. I like the power and the noise, but I am sure the neighbors don't

Shannon

[ephedralover@hotmail.com]

Thanks. I plan on getting a Stampede. My question is there are so many
types of batteries and chargers, can you help me pick some that don't
cost an arm and a leg and that will fit my application? Id like one
battery pack for longer run times and maybe one for speed. From what I
have read I need a 7 cell batt for more speed. Assuming completely
stock stampede.

Would these be good choices?

Batt for runtime
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXERB5&P=7

Batt for speed
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXDNE5&P=M


Charger
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXAVN1&P=M
Would these be good choices in that price range? Thanks in advance.

[Frater Mus]

On Wed, 05 Jan 2005 at 19:59 GMT, <ephedralover@hotmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks. I plan on getting a Stampede. My question is there are so many
> types of batteries and chargers, can you help me pick some that don't
> cost an arm and a leg and that will fit my application? Id like one
> battery pack for longer run times and maybe one for speed. From what I
> have read I need a 7 cell batt for more speed. Assuming completely
> stock stampede.

I don't think you'll need a 7c any time soon. It takes a while to get
used to driving it at normal speeds. :-)

> Would these be good choices?
>
> Batt for runtime
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXERB5&P=7
>
> Batt for speed
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXDNE5&P=M
>
>
> Charger
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXAVN1&P=M
> Would these be good choices in that price range? Thanks in advance.

The URLs got truncated.

I would say something like Venom 3000 nimh packs (3 of them) and a
dynamite or duratraxx peak charger. Maybe $140 for that gear, and
well worth the money.

Many people have regretted spending too little on chargers and batts;
very few people regret the investment in decent batts/chargers. The
peak charger will get the most performance out of whatever batts you
buy.



--
http://cbsrmt.mousetrap.net/RMTdb/ CBS Radio Mystery Theater database
CBSRMT uploads each day in <news:alt.binaries.sounds.radio.cbsrmt>
http://greyhound.mousetrap.net/altus/ our ex-racer greyhound
http://www.mousetrap.net/~mouse/cs.html How to get good phone support

[sbb78247]

ephedralover@hotmail.com wrote:
> Thanks. I plan on getting a Stampede. My question is there are so many
> types of batteries and chargers, can you help me pick some that don't
> cost an arm and a leg and that will fit my application? Id like one
> battery pack for longer run times and maybe one for speed. From what I
> have read I need a 7 cell batt for more speed. Assuming completely
> stock stampede.
>
> Would these be good choices?
>
> Batt for runtime
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXERB5&P=7
>
> Batt for speed
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXDNE5&P=M
>
>
> Charger
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXAVN1&P=M
> Would these be good choices in that price range? Thanks in advance.
>

Honestly, I cannot tell you about electrics too much. I run nitro, so
afaik, a good sport pack 3300 will give you long run times. As far as a
charger goes, be sure it cycles the pack and you should be all right. A
friend uses a super brain to charge the receiver packs on his dragster,
and it seemed reasonable to him $$ wise and it appears to charge quickly
and properly.

Shannon

[Jonathan Hodgson]

On 05 Jan 2005 21:27:47 GMT, Frater Mus wrote:

>> cost an arm and a leg and that will fit my application? Id like one
>> battery pack for longer run times and maybe one for speed. From what I
>> have read I need a 7 cell batt for more speed. Assuming completely
>> stock stampede.
>
> I don't think you'll need a 7c any time soon. It takes a while to get
> used to driving it at normal speeds. :-)

I don't think *anyone* needs 7 cells these days - a 6-pack of 3300s with
a 10-turn modified will give you insane speed for a reasonable time
(don't try this until you've /really/ learnt to drive, and have the car
set up well!); or with a brushless motor will give pretty wild speed for
a much longer time, with less maintenance.

Particularly if you're bashing, consider investing in a brushless setup
sooner rather than later.

Have fun!
Jonny

[mike]

I believe Venom either just have, or are about to release a 3300 mah pack.
If its anything like their 3000 mah it will be pretty good value for money.

Like I said, the Venom's are pretty good for the money and I ran them for
quite a while. I recently swapped to fusion batteries club packs, however,
and I was shocked at the difference. But of course they cost 50 US bucks a
pack.

Mike

"Frater Mus" <FraterMus2004@mousetrap.net> wrote in message
news:41dc5bd3$0$2960$8b463f8a@news.nationwide.net. ..
>
> I would say something like Venom 3000 nimh packs (3 of them) and a
> dynamite or duratraxx peak charger. Maybe $140 for that gear, and
> well worth the money.
>

[M78Ultra]

I dont know what you picked from Tower as the links did not work for me.
I use an Intellipeak Twin Pulse Charger.
Epic 3000 NiMHs (Sport or Dreadnaught)
Team Orion Super Duty 3000 NiMHs
Peak Performance 3000 NiMHs
Sanyo 2400 NiCd
All available at Tower. I would suggest having atleast 4 batteries for 1
Truck.
You can get 2 3000s for roughly $35 from Tower.
I also suggest that you replace the cruddy junk Tamiya plugs with Dean's
Ultra Plugs on every battery and your ESC. With the left over battery ends
make 2 Tamiya to Deans adaptors for your charger. (So you wont void the
warranty)
Personally I do not suggest Venom batteries as others have. I had 2 of them
and both went to the garbage after a month.

<ephedralover@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1104955151.563715.288250@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks. I plan on getting a Stampede. My question is there are so many
> types of batteries and chargers, can you help me pick some that don't
> cost an arm and a leg and that will fit my application? Id like one
> battery pack for longer run times and maybe one for speed. From what I
> have read I need a 7 cell batt for more speed. Assuming completely
> stock stampede.
>
> Would these be good choices?
>
> Batt for runtime
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXERB5&P=7
>
> Batt for speed
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXDNE5&P=M
>
>
> Charger
> http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...p?&I=LXAVN1&P=M
> Would these be good choices in that price range? Thanks in advance.
>

[ephedralover@hotmail.com]

Thanks for the tips. I went with the super brain 959 charger. But they
were out of stock on the Epic batteries. Ill get some of the Deans
plugs, read some about those, they look nice.

[Techpriest]

Have a track near you that runs electric vehicles? Most of my batteries I
have bought used from the mod racers. They buy expensive packs and when
they start to lose power they sell them. I get 3300 matched batteries for
$15-$20 and they have plenty of life for me since I only ever run stock or
19 turn motors.

The stampede is designed for stick packs but could be modified to fit the
racing style packs pretty easily.

For added fun I have made my nephew's Stampede water-resistant. Besides the
motor the electronics are kept high up to begin with. While I guess it is
possible I have never seen a motor damaged by moisture, some people even
recommend running a motor under water to clean it. I have a water-resistant
cover over the reciever and a water-resistant speed controller in it. So
far the mud-bogging and playing in the snow has not hurt anything.

I put some very agressive V tread tires on the back (more agressive then the
factory ones) and flipped them so the V is pointed back. They are his "snow
tires" and has been having fun with it in the snow this week.

The factory Stinger 20 is a dud of a motor. It can't be rebuilt and a stock
class 27 turn has tons more power. I can pick up used stock motors at the
local track for $8-$10 a piece. My nephew is currently running an "outlaw
stock" I paid $10 for and it is quite a bit faster then when it had the
Stinger 20 and still has good run-time.

Check out http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/ for some well designed Stampede
upgrades. I have the bumper, gear cover, ESC mount and some wheels from
there on his Stampede.

The Maxx line of trucks (T-Maxx, E-Maxx, etc) have the same shocks as are on
the rear of the Stampede. The factory plastic rear shocks kept blowing the
caps off so I found some tougher metal aftermarket T-Maxx shocks to put on
the rear. Have not had any problems with the plastic ones on front, most of
the weight in this truck is in the back.

We took the Stampede to the local skate park and had a ball launching it up
off the ramps. His grandmother came with us and she did not even think it
would make it up the half-pipe, she was stunned when it not only made it up
the pipe but flew about 4 foot beyond the top. He kept launching it about 9
foot into the air on one jump and landed it on concrete every time and it
just drove away like nothing happened.

I have even put racing tires on the Stampede and he has raced it in the
Beginner's Class a the local track.

The Stampede is a great little truck. I would love it if they released a
4wd version.

<ephedralover@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105028861.071450.207720@c13g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks for the tips. I went with the super brain 959 charger. But they
> were out of stock on the Epic batteries. Ill get some of the Deans
> plugs, read some about those, they look nice.
>

[ephedralover@hotmail.com]

Wow thanks for all the useful info. I looked for the metal shock caps
and all I found was the ones that fit the big bore shocks, are these
the same?

[Techpriest]

I tried the metal shock cap route, even read on the web where people
suggested it to solve cap coming off problem. Metal shock caps on plastic
shocks resulted in the cap coming off and taking the plastic threads with
it. I am pretty sure the problem is not only a result of hard landings
increasing the preassure of the oil that blows off the caps, but I think the
front and back flex of the arms prying the shock out of the cap. I have
seen not only my nephews Stampede but another one in which after a run one
of the rear caps was still on, but at an angle, as if someone tried to pry
it off without unscrewing it.

I went total metal shocks and that solved the problem. Cost me less then
$30 US and was well worth it, I got tired of cleaning shock oil off the
truck. You could put off the upgrade for a while, when new there will be
plenty of threads on the shocks. Once they start to pull apart though the
problem gets worse every time as the threads get damaged more and more. At
that point you will need new shocks so go metal.

Yes, you want the Big Bore shocks, Traxxas calls then XXL shocks. Any shock
that claims to fit on the T-Maxx will fit on the back of the Stampede. That
also means you can springs for the T-Maxx and they will for the Stampede.

You want to learn about how to beef up a Stampede, give it to an 8 year old.

Here is a nice Stampede
http://www.ultimatetraxxas.com/stampede.html

<ephedralover@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105040298.421782.50620@z14g2000cwz.googlegro ups.com...
> Wow thanks for all the useful info. I looked for the metal shock caps
> and all I found was the ones that fit the big bore shocks, are these
> the same?
>

[ephedralover@hotmail.com]

Thanks. I prob. will upgrade to all metal shocks.
Any other essential upgrades to improve reliability?

[Techpriest]

The front bumper from RPM sure would not hurt, it is much wider then the
stock one and protects the arms. Also the stock gear cover has a hole in
it, RPMs does not and will keep crud out better because of it. Not sure
what Traxxas was thinking there.

As everyone on this list will tell you, bearings should replace bushings as
soon as possible. I bought my nephews Stampede used and it was never
upgraded to bearings by the previous owner. I can replace the bushings with
bearings now, but all the shafts are worn down so to get any good I will
need to replace the shafts as well as the bushings increasing the expense.
Don't wait to long to put bearings in it, you'll save money in the long run.
Right now he has a bad case of the wobbly wheels but he has just gotten a
brand new Rustler to race with so the Stampede will have to wait for the new
parts as the Ruslter is getting bearings this weekend.

I am assuming your using the Traxxas radio that came with it. Good little
radios for play but one problem. Like many other cheap radios I have used
the trim knobs are too exposed. Not only are they right next to the drivers
steerintg hand but they stick out away from the radio. If you bump the
throttle trim when driving you will make it so that once you let off the
throttle the truck will be still going forward, or start going back. While
I have not had to much trouble the kids that drove the Stampede and Rustler
had a heck of a time with this, always bumping it and then they panic and
forget the lesson on turning the knob back to 0' when it goes out of
control. If using an electronic speed controller and just playing around I
can't think of any reason you would ever want to adjust the throttle trim.
Set it to 0 and put a drop of crazy glue on it to hold it there. I am
ashamed at how long I fought this problem before that solution occured to
me.

I am planning to take the radio apart and see if I can't remove the throttle
trim and maybe get the steering trim moved so it won't get bumped as much.

-----
Currently Racing Stock Truck and 4wd Mod
RC10T4, XXX4, Sport-Maxx (w 4wd), RC12L3, RS4MT

<ephedralover@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1105117824.072389.109780@f14g2000cwb.googlegr oups.com...
> Thanks. I prob. will upgrade to all metal shocks.
> Any other essential upgrades to improve reliability?
>

[ephedralover@hotmail.com]

Thanks for the info. Got the RPM bumper along with an extra set of
shock caps coming with my stampede which should arrive today. Also got
the front and rear RPM bearing holders and some bearings on my wish
list along with various motor cleaner lube, etc. I will be gettin metal
shocks when my funds alow me.

How about a metal shock tower? Im mostly worried about the suspension
breaking down when Im in the desert playing with it. No hobby stores
out there.

Thanks again.

[Frater Mus]

On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 at 16:43 GMT, <spam@nospam.com> wrote:

> I am pretty sure the problem is not only a result of hard landings
> increasing the preassure of the oil that blows off the caps, but I think the
> front and back flex of the arms prying the shock out of the cap. I have

Interesting theory.

I have not heard anyone associate cap blow-off with mechanical
interference on the model itself, but the Traxxas boys take loads of
calls and may have heard of it before.

> Yes, you want the Big Bore shocks, Traxxas calls then XXL shocks. Any shock
> that claims to fit on the T-Maxx will fit on the back of the Stampede. That
> also means you can springs for the T-Maxx and they will for the Stampede.

XXL is a length, which as you indicate is the length of the maxx and pede
shocks.

> You want to learn about how to beef up a Stampede, give it to an 8 year old.

Excellent advice.

--
http://cbsrmt.mousetrap.net/RMTdb/ CBS Radio Mystery Theater database
CBSRMT uploads each day in <news:alt.binaries.sounds.radio.cbsrmt>
http://greyhound.mousetrap.net/altus/ our ex-racer greyhound
http://www.mousetrap.net/~mouse/cs.html How to get good phone support

[Frater Mus]

On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 at 18:57 GMT, <spam@nospam.com> wrote:
> The front bumper from RPM sure would not hurt, it is much wider then the
> stock one and protects the arms.

Yep, particularly if yours shipped with the 2018 rather than the
2055 servo.

> Also the stock gear cover has a hole in
> it, RPMs does not and will keep crud out better because of it. Not sure
> what Traxxas was thinking there.

Over the spur? That's an access hole to adjust the slipper w/out
pulling the cover. A rubber plug comes in it stock; maybe it got
lost.

> control. If using an electronic speed controller and just playing around I
> can't think of any reason you would ever want to adjust the throttle trim.
> Set it to 0 and put a drop of crazy glue on it to hold it there. I am
> ashamed at how long I fought this problem before that solution occured to
> me.

Turning the throttle trim can be useful in diagnosing radio/speed
control problems ("turn the throttle trim; does it affect the motor
speed in any way?") and can also help with mechanical/rotary speed
controls that may not center perfectly.

> I am planning to take the radio apart and see if I can't remove the throttle
> trim and maybe get the steering trim moved so it won't get bumped as much.

Might be easier to just pull the knob off. I think that silver ring
with the spanner wrench detent-looking-things might come off, allowing
one to pry up the knob. Never tried it.


--
http://cbsrmt.mousetrap.net/RMTdb/ CBS Radio Mystery Theater database
CBSRMT uploads each day in <news:alt.binaries.sounds.radio.cbsrmt>
http://greyhound.mousetrap.net/altus/ our ex-racer greyhound
http://www.mousetrap.net/~mouse/cs.html How to get good phone support

[Frater Mus]

On Fri, 07 Jan 2005 at 21:16 GMT, <ephedralover@hotmail.com> wrote:

> How about a metal shock tower? Im mostly worried about the suspension
> breaking down when Im in the desert playing with it. No hobby stores
> out there.

Carry a spare stock tower. Metal towers are $$$, heavy, and will not
shear under stress. Which means broken shocks, chassis, etc.

IIRC, the stock tower costs less than $10.

--
http://cbsrmt.mousetrap.net/RMTdb/ CBS Radio Mystery Theater database
CBSRMT uploads each day in <news:alt.binaries.sounds.radio.cbsrmt>
http://greyhound.mousetrap.net/altus/ our ex-racer greyhound
http://www.mousetrap.net/~mouse/cs.html How to get good phone support

[mike]

Also useful for running in new motors, brushes etc

"Frater Mus" <FraterMus2004@mousetrap.net> wrote in message
news:41e007b5$0$2958$8b463f8a@news.nationwide.net. ..
>
> Turning the throttle trim can be useful in diagnosing radio/speed
> control problems ("turn the throttle trim; does it affect the motor
> speed in any way?") and can also help with mechanical/rotary speed
> controls that may not center perfectly.

[Techpriest]

> > Also the stock gear cover has a hole in
> > it, RPMs does not and will keep crud out better because of it. Not sure
> > what Traxxas was thinking there.
>
> Over the spur? That's an access hole to adjust the slipper w/out
> pulling the cover. A rubber plug comes in it stock; maybe it got
> lost.

No, where the out-drive comes close to the cover they cut a hole in it to
make room. The RPM one has a dent but not a hole.

> > control. If using an electronic speed controller and just playing
around I
> > can't think of any reason you would ever want to adjust the throttle
trim.
> > Set it to 0 and put a drop of crazy glue on it to hold it there. I am
> > ashamed at how long I fought this problem before that solution occured
to
> > me.
>
> Turning the throttle trim can be useful in diagnosing radio/speed
> control problems ("turn the throttle trim; does it affect the motor
> speed in any way?") and can also help with mechanical/rotary speed
> controls that may not center perfectly.

Not worth the hassle of the runaway truck every other battery pack. Again,
in my case the Stampede and Rustler are driven by kids.

> > I am planning to take the radio apart and see if I can't remove the
throttle
> > trim and maybe get the steering trim moved so it won't get bumped as
much.
>
> Might be easier to just pull the knob off. I think that silver ring
> with the spanner wrench detent-looking-things might come off, allowing
> one to pry up the knob. Never tried it.

Good idea, I will check that out.

Right now I am trying to get the Rustler to handle better and work on a way
to keep racing packs in it. Velco has been recommended, but I want
something stronger.