How can I get 'real boat' quality paint on...

[speedchaser]

my model boat hull, or how can one achieve a paint finish of similar quality (toughness, glaze, etc)? I have quite a few years of doing static models and have used both brushed-on and spray-on enamels and have got very good results, but, how do I put it - it doessn't matter how clean the brushes are, the surface is, etc, etc - it seems allmost impossible to get that 'professional' glass-like finish. Of course I will first prime the finished hull (ABS and thin ply over foam and balsa) with a good few coats of polly and then grey primer to serve as a good base. I know such a finish can be done simply going by full sized boats. The alternative of gel coat puts me off as it can crack - and I don't have an iron anyway... :rolleyes:

[CG Bob]

it seems allmost impossible to get that 'professional' glass-like finish Other than yachts and pleasure craft, very few full size vessels have a glass like finish. Look at tugs and cargo ships and you'll see all sorts of dents and variations in the paint from touching up damaged areas.

A few tricks that I've learned over the years are:
1. Many light coats (especially sprayed on) are btter than fewer heavy coats.
2. Always try to (brush) paint on a horizontal surface to prevent sags and runs from forming in the finish.
3. Referring to #2, don't try to apply one coat of finish to the entire hull in one session. I built the Dumas Chris Craft Barrelback runabout, and spent 5 sessions (days) applying one coat of finnish: top deck; transom; port side; starboard side; and bottom.
4. Preparation is key. Sand the hull, vacuum off the sanding dust, wipe the hull down with a rag soaked with the solvent for the type of paint you're using. I never use a tack cloth because of the "tacky" residue it leaves behind.
5. If possible have a separate paint room or area in your shop, away from the dusty area. If you can't have a separate paint area, allow some time for the dust to settle before painting the model.
6. For high gloss finished (like varnish) I like to wet sand between coats with finer grades of sandpaper. On the Chris Craft, I started wet snding with 220grit and worked through 320, 440, 600, 1000, and 2000 grit. The final two coats were wet sanded with 2000, after the final sanding, I used automotive clear coat polishing compound.

[speedchaser]

Many thanks - the finish on your Chriss Craft Barrelback is exactly the finish I would like to achieve, but for a bright finishing or top coat/colour such as enamell silver (gloss) or very light gray. So, the key is sanding down allmost everything, then applying one coat and allowing to settle for a few days; then applying another coat and allowing to settle for another few days - and so on, and to sand down each coat before applying the next one. But the real 'magical' ingrediant that you mention, sounds like 'automotive clear coat polishing compound' - that must be what auto mfrs/finishers use... Cheers

[CG Bob]

The magic ingredient is the wet sanding with fine sandpaper, and not touching the hull with your bare hands after sanding. For example, I would wet sand the transom, wipe it dry with a clean soft cloth (an old T shirt), and spray (mist) some water on the transom, then dry it again, wipe with a rag wet with solvent (i.e. mineral spirits for varnish, alcohol for epoxy, etc.), and after it was completely dry, I would apply my varnish. You must resist all temptation to run abare hand over the just wet sanded surface, the skin oils in your hand can and will cause the next coat of varnish to fail. I never use a tack cloth, because the adhesive residue left behind can cause the varnish to fail. The final coat is wet sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper and then the polishing compound.

[speedchaser]

many thanks...