Electric Gyro Show and Tell

[mkb]

As gyros are now included in this forum, love to see what other folks are up to.

I built my model based on the "Spin Doctor" plans published in the August issue of Flying Models replacing the suggested .049 engine with a Razor 400 in a "D" gearbox turning a 10x4.7 prop running off a 3S Apogee 1050 pack, and using bluecore fan fold foam instead of balsa for the fuselage and tail feathers.

I did increase the frontal height of the fuselage to fit the Razor and gearbox, and added a stick to hold the gearbox and a tray to hold the battery. The top front of the fuse is removable, held in place by two magnets, for ready access to the battery (velcro strap hold downs.) I removed the plastic layer of the fan fold foam, then ironed on EconoKote for strength and color.

Overall specs are as follows:

18" wingspan
20" fuse
18.5" rotors

I'm pleased to report that whereas the IC Spin Doctor weights around 16 oz., my electric FFF version tips the scales at 14.5 oz.

Michael

[David A Ramsey]

Gyros should be interesting. Hope the flappers don't mind sharing the Forum, although I find ornithopters fasinating also.

Couple years ago I put this together for a GWS A Drive. Never flew because the IPS just didn't have enough power to overcome the lift and drag needed for foward flight. Using a BL IPS Feigao and 3S Lipo, I might try this again.

Would be interested in hearing about successful IPS sized Gyros.

MKB: Thanks for the Forum start.

David

[Lone Yankee]

VERY nice gyro-coptors both!

[mkb]

David,

Looks like you put a lot of thought and effort into your build. A CD-ROM motor running on 2S might be a good and inexpensive way to test the design, providing around 10 oz. of thrust for nominal weight. How small is it?

Michael

[David A Ramsey]

David, How small is it? Michael


It's about the size and wieght of the GWS Pico F, or Pico Cub. Has a disc diameter of 30" The balsa blades have a 1" cord with a Clark-Y airfoil.

I'm going to try the 12mm 4000KV IPS brushless Feigao in the A drive. I've tried this in the Pico F with remarkable results using a 2S 1020mAh Lipo. The Pico F will hover on the prop and a 45 degree climb is outstanding. It will fly in a 20 mph wind.

Hadn't thought much about trying this new power arrangement in the Auto Gyro till I noticed this Forum start.

Thanks, David

[nolasco]

"Would be interested in hearing about successful IPS sized Gyros."

David, your wish is my command ...

GWS DX-A Drive
3-Cell LiPoly
GWS 8x4.3 prop
7oz AUW

This one can be configured as either single or dual rotors, as the pictures illustrate.


Jun Nolasco

[John Boren]

I flew this bird a bunch of times last year. I need to make a new set of blades before flying her again. Power is king. I tried first with a IPS gear drive unit with No luck. Switched to a Duel IPS unit and now it flies fantastic. You can go here to down load a video of it flying. The photo shows the gyro with the single motor IPS installed

http://www.aerocompositedesign.com/Videos/videos.html

John Boren

[AustinTatious]

This was at one time the smallest Rc auto gyro I had ever heard of.. I built it because everyone said it could not be done.. I did this before the rapid growth of Lipo's and brushless motors.

The gear is missing but it flew on :

GWS motor Direct drive with a prop from a Cox Viper.
8 50 Mah Nicads
GWS rx
at first 2 but then reduced to 1 Gws servo abotu 9 grams I think.

Specs :

3 ounces AUW ( I could almost Half this today!)
3 ounces of thrust
13 inch Rotor diameter.

each blade is only 5 1/8th inches ( excluding the grip and hub)

The flexible blade hub was made of a coffee can lid

Rudder for turns and throttle for altitude. I only got about 45 seconds to aminuite of enough powere to fly it becaus eof the Nicads... but it definitly flew and turned well. I could really make it sweet with some of the new gear ehh?

I really should put gear back on it and fly it.. everyone always got a kick ut of me running to get the head spinning.

[Inverted_Fly]

I love autogyros..........I tried makin one work once, but i couldnt get it to fly. my blades were too light I think.

[David A Ramsey]

This one can be configured as either single or dual rotors, as the pictures illustrate. Jun Nolasco

You're flying site must keep you on your toes!

Thanks, David

[David A Ramsey]

Power is king. I tried first with a IPS gear drive unit with No luck. Switched to a Duel IPS unit and now it flies fantastic. You can go here to down load a video of it flying. The photo shows the gyro with the single motor IPS installed. John Boren

John; That's a very creative rotor control. Might like to steal that design.

Thanks for the pictures.

David

[Aio_1]

....Never flew because the IPS just didn't have enough power to overcome the lift and drag needed for foward flight. Using a BL IPS Feigao and 3S Lipo, I might try this again.....

Hi David,

What did you run the IPS on? Most people use them on 7NiMH or 2s Lipo. The standard motor is much better on 3s. Efficiency is better and you can get about double the power out of it. It's quite easy to get 8oz thrust at indoor flying speeds (around 24mph pitch speed if I remember right).
Of course if you already tried this and have brushless sitting around, why not!

Aidan

[David A Ramsey]

Hi David,
What did you run the IPS on? Most people use them on 7NiMH or 2s Lipo. Of course if you already tried this and have brushless sitting around, why not!
Aidan

Hello Aidan;

At the time, three years ago, I had just started dabbling with GWS Pico electrics and only had GWS 6 cell 350mAh NiCad batteries to work with. I put the Gyro aside to play with twin GWS EDF 50s. Agree that the 7 cell NiMH would have been the way to go then. Even bought the twin GWS IPS, but never tried it. Now, having the Feigao Brushless, I'm inclined to try again using a 2S Lipo which will also yield a lighter disc loading.

Thanks for your thoughts.

David

[Aio_1]

I fancy putting something like that of my own together at some point so I look forward to hearing how you get on.
Good luck with it!

[David A Ramsey]

Likewise Aidan; Will keep you in mind.

[David A Ramsey]

I fancy putting something like that of my own together at some point so I look forward to hearing how you get on.
Good luck with it!

Well until this Autogyro Forum started up, my little un-tested gyro had been sitting happily collecting dust. See Post No. 2 for photo.

Last night I put the 12mm IPS BL Feigao 4000 in a GWS A drive with 1047 prop. My OAW is 7.4oz. I have good power (I think), but horrible lift. I can get a good wind up, but once launched the lift and head speed die quickly. From a hand launch I had 2 controlled desents and 3 barrel roll desents. Never was happy with the lift I felt while running around the yard and now I'm sure I have to build a different set of blades. Presently my 3 Clark Y blades measure 15" long by 1" wide by 1/8" thick. Gonna try shorter, thicker and wider.

The mast tilt is 8 degrees with -2 degrees blade attack angle. Non articulated Flexible hub with pivoting blades. Any comments would be appreciated.

This Autogyro, although smaller, was patterned after John S. Kallend's "WHISTLER" which appeared in the May 1992 issue of RCM Magazine.

David

[Aio_1]

I have no experience with autogyros - you probably know considerably more about them than I do, however I think a blade aspect ratio of about 10 is considered a good starting point for your type of design.
Would it be worth changing to say a 9x7 prop to increase the pitch speed or do you think speed is adequate?

Aidan

[mkb]

David,

If you haven't already done so, you can read through design suggestions at AutoGryo.com. See: http://www.autogyro.com/technic/tech.htm#designing

Among other considerations, it affirms beginning with a 10:1 blade aspect ratio.

Michael

[David A Ramsey]

Aidan & Michael: Agreed on ratio. Aidan: Did bring a 0947 prop, but didn't try.

One of the reasons I went to such a high aspect ratio was due to how well the Robbe Whopper flew with this, almost 15 to 1 ratio. Will be making 10 to 1 blades with a stiffer flapping hub. Feel my 0.025 thick is too flexible.

David

[AustinTatious]

I read that IN wind tunnel testing an 8:1 aspect ratio was good..

The mast tilt is 8 degrees with -2 degrees blade attack angle. Non articulated Flexible hub with pivoting blades. Any comments would be appreciated.

Before goign thru all the trouble making new blades... Take out some of that negative blade angle. On my little gyro ( pictured above) the blade angle is JSUT next to 0 jsut a bit on the negative side. You could probably get away with 0 on a bigger one with that clark Y. It May be harder to get them going, buut they will auto.

[John Boren]

David,

I am flying my Gyro with a GWS 10x8 prop. You need forward speed to get the blades up to speed.

John Boren

[David A Ramsey]

I read that IN wind tunnel testing an 8:1 aspect ratio was good..
Before goign thru all the trouble making new blades... Take out some of that negative blade angle. On my little gyro ( pictured above) the blade angle is JSUT next to 0 jsut a bit on the negative side. You could probably get away with 0 on a bigger one with that clark Y. It May be harder to get them going, buut they will auto.

Originally started at 0, but was hard to wind up even in a good breeze. Since she is still in one piece, think I'll try these blades one more time, only cut down to 10 to 1 ratio and stiffen the flapping a bit. Yesterday was pretty calm and today's light breeze might help.

Thanks, David

[David A Ramsey]

David,
I am flying my Gyro with a GWS 10x8 prop. You need forward speed to get the blades up to speed. John Boren

Agree with forward speed making head speed. I know I'm lacking head speed. Will try cut down blades first. If that doesn't show improvement, then perhaps a set of blades similar to yours (in your photo). Then better power.

Really like your articulated head. Question: Does the bracket and ball link bend under flight loads? Is that a 2mm link with a 5mm ball?

David

[David A Ramsey]

Here's another thought about my hub and blades: As a result of hard landings, I have prop tip nicks in the trailing edges of my three blades. The leading edges show prop scuffing, but not cuts. My little mind tells me my blades are twisting to a positive angle of attack as speed builds up. Already felt the coning angle was excessive, so stiffening the hub may be the thing to do first.

David

[nolasco]

You're flying site must keep you on your toes!

Thanks, David

You're telling me! The playground is around the size of 3 basketball courts. It has one full court and two half courts, with the remaining area used for "other" types of play. The entire place is surrounded by a chain link fence with trees outside of the fence on three sides.

When I have the whole playground to myself (usually in the morning on a school day), I can fly anything electric I want. When the full court is in use, I bring out my slower/gentler flyers (autogyros included). If all the courts are full, I bring out my micro (and sub-micro) helis or IFOs and fly in the "other" area for "in-your-face" flying. If the whole playground is full, well, I fly another day and/or time.

I'm sure I can find larger sites in the Big Apple. But, this one is just a block from my apartment and is therefore very convenient.

Jun Nolasco

[Matt Chester]

I wandered my way in here. Its cool to see this new forum, I hope it makes it because I am definetly intersted in Autogyros but dont have any idea where to start.


Sorry for interupting the converstation, but can you build an autogyro that flies slower than a standard plane of equal size? like a IPS Gyro and an IPS Pico Stick?

[David A Ramsey]

I'm sure I can find larger sites in the Big Apple. But, this one is just a block from my apartment and is therefore very convenient. Jun Nolasco


Well you make due with what ya got. Apparently very good!

David

[David A Ramsey]

Well I stiffened the hub, shortened the blades 10 to 1 (now 24" rotor span)and replaced the GWS 1047 with a 0947. Head spun up much better, but no wind. You could fly indoor stuff outside today. Had 2 nice level power glides to landing.... and a real nice double barrel roll while trying to get the nose up. Just not enough pull from the motor/prop. Tomorrow hoping for a breeze and will try a 3s Lipo! Tired of running!

David

[David A Ramsey]

but can you build an autogyro that flies slower than a standard plane of equal size? like a IPS Gyro and an IPS Pico Stick?


Ah Matt, Yes.

It's the IPS Pico Stick Gyro that I'm hopen will do just that.

David

[Aio_1]

If you need more speed moving from 10x4.7 to 9x4.7 will only give a small increase in pitch speed and you will lose overall power. You really need to increase pitch as you decrease diameter so that the motor load is about the same. Of course that depends of having the appropriate prop handy! Do you know what the current is like and what cells did you use for those flights.

Aidan

[Matt Chester]

David,

Good, thats what I was hoping to hear.

I have a Feigao 4100 that would work great for this.

I agree with Aiden, you should probably try the 9x7 prop, gives considerable more speed but still retains about the same torque as the 10x4.7, at least on the planes I have flown.

-Matt

[AustinTatious]

I think that is the wrong solution.. gyros are capable of very slow flight... Besides, how much fun will it be if he must fly full throttle witha 9x7 prop?

Try Verying the mast rake instead.. moving it slightly forward should increase the speed the craft will (have to) fly at. Moving it aft will slow the craft down.

My little mind tells me my blades are twisting to a positive angle of attack as speed builds up. Already felt the coning angle was excessive, so stiffening the hub may be the thing to do first.

if your hub is not tooo lose, then your problem is more than likely too low a head speed. If you take out some of that -2 degrees, it will speed up.

It will be harder to start the blades, but as they move faster and faster, the AOA lessens more and more. Full scale gyros fly with a positive blade angle.

on my little gyro, the hub is very flexible, but the blades spinning is what kkeeps the coneing down.. also, in Forward flight, you should see only 1 side of the "cone" raised up and that of course is the forward moving blade.. the retreating blade will likely be almost flat.

[Aio_1]

If the autogyro should be capable of flight at that speed then perhaps more pitch speed would just hide other problems. Perhaps AustinTatious is correct.
I'm inexperienced with aurogyros so only take my advice for what it's worth!

Aidan

[Kitetamer]

Hi John, Thanks for the video, it flys so sweet! I'm not much of a scratch builder, but would love to have one of these. any chance of getting a set of plans, or if there is a kit I'm buyin. tried to get plans from the Autogyro.com site but sadly the link is not working. I love this new forum, hope it's here to stay. Tom

[mkb]

John,

I share Tom and David's - and probably many other's - interest in your design. Any chance for rough schematics and a parts list?

Michael

[David A Ramsey]

Aidan:

With the Feigao 4000 BL and A drive on 2s Lipo with 1047 prop, drawing just over 2A off full charge.

[David A Ramsey]

I think that is the wrong solution.. gyros are capable of very slow flight... Besides, how much fun will it be if he must fly full throttle witha 9x7 prop?

Try Verying the mast rake instead.. moving it slightly forward should increase the speed the craft will (have to) fly at. Moving it aft will slow the craft down.

if your hub is not tooo lose, then your problem is more than likely too low a head speed. If you take out some of that -2 degrees, it will speed up.

It will be harder to start the blades, but as they move faster and faster, the AOA lessens more and more. Full scale gyros fly with a positive blade angle.

on my little gyro, the hub is very flexible, but the blades spinning is what kkeeps the coneing down.. also, in Forward flight, you should see only 1 side of the "cone" raised up and that of course is the forward moving blade.. the retreating blade will likely be almost flat.


These are very good points.

A friend who also flies Autogyros gave me a good rotor speed hand launch this morning. First time I could really watch what was happening. Launch was good, but the nose would drop after release and this has been a consistant problem that I attributed to lack of power. Elevator and rudder corrections only yielded barrel rolls. Provided good entertainment for those watching.

Increasing rotor blade pitch may help, but I'm feeling that the mast angle needs to be increased. I'm only slightly nose heavy and I don't feel I have too much down thrust in motor. Presently I have -10 (not 8) degree mast, 5 degree motor down thrust and about + 1, or 2 degrees incidence on the stab.

Used a 3s Lipo this morning. I no longer feel I have power problems as the barrel rolls were much more spectacular. As the mast was finally broken off I feel like this Gyro may be telling me something.

David

[AustinTatious]

David I think I know how to fix your problem. Unfortunatly it dosent look like this can be done easily on that bird.

You can 1: make your blades Flap more..... or

you can mechanically put in permanant right tilt to the rotar. If you look at the pic of my miro gyro, im using the same head style as you.. Mine too was torque or barrel rolling over to the left. To fix this I literally Bent the top wire portion of my Mast slighly to the right. This is basically what would happen if you had an articulated head. Scince you dont, you have to put it in there permanantly, as I can see your mast is not really adjustable in ths way.... If you can figure out ho to do this, it should work unless your problem is a RIGHT barrel roll!

If you give more Flap to the blades, it will allow the advancing blade to Rise up and Dump the excess lift. I think your main problem is the one mentioned above, disk angle is perpendicular in all axis to the Mast.

Let me know if you need pics or somthing to help better understand what Ive said.

[David A Ramsey]

David I think I know how to fix your problem. Unfortunatly it dosent look like this can be done easily on that bird.

You can 1: make your blades Flap more..... or Oh dear I just made them flap less.

you can mechanically put in permanant right tilt to the rotar. If you look at the pic of my miro gyro, im using the same head style as you.. Mine too was torque or barrel rolling over to the left. To fix this I literally Bent the top wire portion of my Mast slighly to the right. This is basically what would happen if you had an articulated head. Scince you dont, you have to put it in there permanantly, as I can see your mast is not really adjustable in ths way.... If you can figure out ho to do this, it should work unless your problem is a RIGHT barrel roll!

If you give more Flap to the blades, it will allow the advancing blade to Rise up and Dump the excess lift. I think your main problem is the one mentioned above, disk angle is perpendicular in all axis to the Mast.

Let me know if you need pics or somthing to help better understand what Ive said.


Austin: Thank you for your imformative reply. I have a pretty good grasp of what you mean, but where were you an hour ago. You just would not believe the acrobatic capability.

I think the head is working pretty good now. The right, or left mast tilt may be a solution, but I'm not sure.

This afternoon I increased the mast tilt to 15 degrees, rebalanced to just slightly nose heavy and went back to the 2s Lipo. Again, no breeze, but I managed to get pretty good rotor speed and I let her go. Holly Cow! Up she went, nice and level, but began to climb steeply. Did kinda a stall turn and on the way back down - Rotor turning strong - I started to apply some elevator and some rudder, and BANG, into a barrel roll. I rebalanced a bit more nose heavy, but again a "final" barrel roll after applying elevator and rudder corrections.

So, I know I have good power (1047 prop) and good head speed. Now perhaps a side tilted mast might help (I'm running CW rotation), but I'm thinking I've got some twisting in the tail. I'm using a GWS Pico slow flyer Stab that is maybe too big, and, or too much flex, as it's unsupported along the span.

I've got a lot of pieces now, but the mast, rotor head, and equipment has survived. The closer she gets to flying, the more pieces in the, ah, landings. Think I'll come up with another fuselage and stiffer tail. I'm getting closer!

David

[AustinTatious]

The right, or left mast tilt may be a solution, but I'm not sure.


see for that to work, youahve to only tilt the TOP of the mast. If you tilt the whol thing from the bottom it wont work right.

15 degrees soudns like a LOT... Go to about half from that and what you ahd.. see if it starts behaveing.

If you look from the top you have CW rotation?

if looking from the Rear, which way does your Prop rotate?

If you have the advancing blade AND the Rotar both tryign to roll you the same way, it will barrel roll every time on a small gyro like yours. make sure they "counter act" each other.

[David A Ramsey]

Austin;

Viewed from the top: CW rotor. My thinking is motor torque pulls left, advancing rotor blade banks right. Remember, I had a level climbout to a stall. Roll effect comes after applying rudder and elevator.

Agree 15 degree mast is a lot, but nose no longer drops. Try 12 degrees next?

Appreciate your options .... making me think. I think.

David

[John Boren]

I have most of the drawings done for my autogyro. What format would you guys like it in, DXF or PDF?

John Boren

[Aio_1]

DXF drawing would be great John.

Aidan

[Sammy B]

I could use a pdf. thanks!

[Kitetamer]

PDF for me too, Thanks John!

[Aio_1]

Well if everyone else wants PDFs that's fine. Don't bother doing both if it's extra work.

Thanks,

Aidan

[umrk]

DXF, Its less work. ;)

Thanks
mike

[Kitetamer]

hey John, Whatever is easier for you. Umm Whats DXF? Oh! I checked online and downloaded a dxf file and it starts up with a cad lite program, not sure how to use it but I think I can convert it to pdf if I need to. Like I said whatever is eisier for you.
Sammy B- If I figure out how to convert it I will send it to you in PDF, I think i found a program that converts it that has a free 15 day trial. Thanks again John

[umrk]

DXF is the file exchange format for CAD programs introduced by Autocad, and now the industry standard for CAD file exchange, IIRC.

CAD files have the added benefit of being easily scalable w/o loosing any resolution since their vector based instead of bit based. IOW, if you want to make it 1000X larger or smaller it will be just as accurate and sharp. And its easier to convert to DXF than to PDF since its a simple format of the CAD program to select when its saved.

As I understand it you need Adobe Acrobat (not a cheap or free program) to convert it legally to PDF.

Plus theres free view/print programs for DXF files (and other CAD formats) available.

mike

[Aio_1]

DXF's can also be easily modified if you wanted to make changes of your own!

Not that I would dream of doing so!

Aidan

[Kitetamer]

Great! I have Adobe Acrobat, so I will try to convert the file for Sammy B, Thanks Gents!

[umrk]

Not neccisarly changes in basic design in my case, but it is nice to edit and fit your own components if needed, or to change thicknesses if a certain dimention of anything isn't available in your area, or to up/down scale a design and be able to convert it to standard size parts...

Then print out sections as templates for cutting on your home printer after deleting unneeded lines that can cause confusion instead of needing 2-3 big prints from kinko's or wherever for one build.

Its just all around better in CAD, IMHO.

BUT OTOH, beggars can't be choosers, so any printable format is fine by me. :D

mike

[John Boren]

I will most likely post the file in PDF once it is finished. This way anyone can print it out either be the tile method or full scale if they bring it to their local copy center. I have less of the gyro drawn then I thought. The airframe is done but I now need to draw the head part that makes it all turn. I have made one change to this drawing that may effect the flight performance. I have moved the horizontal stab back one inch so there SHOULD be no way to get a blade stike during hard landings. In theory the blade should not of been able to do this before but it did.

John Boren

[Sammy B]

If he doesn't post it in PDF thanks a ton Kitetamer

[John Boren]

Here is a link to the Drawings up on my web site.

http://www.aerocompositedesign.com/Products/RC_Electric_Airplane/Cap_232/indoor_gyro.html

So far I have posted two drawings. One for the Rotor Head and the other for the Tilt Head Mech. I will post the Fuselage Parts in the next day or so. The Head parts are by far the hardest to make so you might as well start there. Let me know if the drawings make sence.

John Boren

[David A Ramsey]

John, You're a generous man!

I printed out the 2 sheets in PDF on 8 1/2" x 11" and will blow up on copy machine to 11" x 17". I like the delta hinge method.

I'm re-doing my fixed rotor design for a final attempt. If it proves too finicky, I'll have a go at your design. The mechanics are lovely.

David

Oh, yes, for me, the drawings make sense!

[gbarc]

Thanks for the plans John!! I've been working on my own pager motor powered Gyro. There is alot of science that goes into these things and i would recommend that those unfamilar go to the autogyro website posted. After many tries i finally got something to "semi" work. I'm not going to post details yet...but i will divulge that the blades are made of foam plates! More details during the holiday break!

Greg

[AustinTatious]

Greg,

Please Post pics when you can! Ive been thinkign of trying a smaller Gyro than the 13 inch one I have now.... It get real hard at that size, but i do think lighter is possible..

Has your model flown?

Im guessing you have autogyro experience and thus know the differance btween windmilling and autorotation.

Thats the hard part, making sure your rotr is in fact autorotating and not jsut windmilling.

With Foam plates, I suspect they will need a little tip weight. Also, is it single sheet or did you Fold the foam over onto itself? I found that flat plates or airfoils that are made from them ( jsut bent) dont auto-rotate very well. Maybee I ws doign something else wrong.

Id Love to see pics!.... Ive not seen a smaller one than mine so far, although im sure it is out there!

[gbarc]

Austin,
I have very little autogyro experience....but i have a ton of avaiation experience!
The foam plates are flat bottom with a slight airfoil bent in(still working on best design)
I use a slight degree of negative incidence. When i do basic test and the blades are spun up i do get lift. I made a very basic platform and it flew. Now i'm working out some quirks....and i'm going to be 10" or less for main rotor diameter!


Greg

[AustinTatious]

I use a slight degree of negative incidence. When i do basic test and the blades are spun up i do get lift. I made a very basic platform and it flew. Now i'm working out some quirks....and i'm going to be 10" or less for main rotor diameter!


Greg

Uhh ohh! looks like your gonna out do me! Ill ahve to chop my blades DOwn! lol.

Was it a FF when you tested it? Is it going to Be R/C ?

What quirks ? Perhaps I can help.

[gbarc]

Austin,
I'm on a roll now...i've been working on a very neat blade design and i've been shaving weight like crazy. I'm going to make my blades from kevlar so they are very thin and light.Carbon fiber frame. I'm going to try and use IR but it will be RFFS capable. 60 mah li-poly...balsa wheels..the works!!!!I'm shooting for 8 grams or less!!! I'll keep ya posted on progress!!!

Greg

[AustinTatious]

get us some pics!

[rumplestilskin]

why do all the pictures of auto gyros i see have 3 or 4 blades .just wondering. caus i picked up a auto gyro like thing at wall mart ($10.00) and it only has 2 blades and it flys great. just wondering

wanted to see the basics in motion before i started planing building my j250 sized auto gyro..

NAME: AIR HOGS quickcharge helicopter

[umrk]

Unique concept posted in the links thread...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2938581&postcount=3

ADDED:
New thread about it here...
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302732

mike

[John Boren]

I would like to post the rest of my Gyro as a PDF file but I can't seam to get it to save with a 36 x48" paper size that is needed nor can I figure out how to get the PDF file to be saved as a tiled page. Anyone know how to do this.

John Boren

[Kitetamer]

Hi John, Thanks for the plans so far. I was able to print them up tiled then taped them. I am not sure if I am doing that right. I have no point of refrence as far as measurements. I set out to the LHS to find out that I have to order the sig bushing and the monster ball links from the manufacturer. If you know of one place that sells them both let me know. I am going to order the carbon Tow, first time i ever heard of this stuff! from AirDynamics is that apoxy you use to apply that? I unfortunately dont know how to help you with pdf file , I am still reading acrobat reader help area. I was hoping Mike (UMRK) might be able to help out here he seems well versed in this area. Thanks again John (It is Thanksgiving after all) Mike if you could help it would be greatly appreciated TIA! Tom

[JWarren]

Hello everyone!

I have included my autogyro to the Gyro forum. It is a large scale design all modified for electric flight. The Gyro was based on the Gyro Schtick design from plans obtained from RCM. The original plans called for a glow setup. I have totally scratch built the Gyro from the plans which I have put into autocad 14. As soon as all the testing and necessary adjustments have been made I will make the plans available.

Here's the thread. It is basically my experience from the start of the project till I finish all the testing. When this model flys correctly I will add the build photos and make the plans available.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302523

John

[umrk]

why do all the pictures of auto gyros i see have 3 or 4 blades .just wondering. caus i picked up a auto gyro like thing at wall mart ($10.00) and it only has 2 blades and it flys great. just wondering

"Rotor Disk Solidity...3 or 4 blades recommended (number of rotor blades..)
The actual number of rotor blades is not critical for model performance. We note that rotor RPM may decrease some as you add blades, thus simply the adding of blades does not significantly alter the rotor performance. A single, counter balanced blade, would possibly work, however it`s use is not as practical as two or more. Two rotor blades work fair, but experience with models tells us they are not as efficient or as easy to pre-spin as three or four.. Three blades perform exceptionally well, and many modelers report they seem to add a bit more stability and steadiness to a model. Four blades work very well, and will improve rotor efficiency slightly, if you want to go to the effort to built more than three blades. If your model is an attempt at scaling a full sized machine using four or more blades, use the correct number, however do not expect much (if any) increase in efficiency. Suggestion: It is a good idea when you make blades, to make an extra identical one for the set...... Sooner or later you will probably need to replace a blade."

http://www.autogyro.com/technic/specs.htm

[gbarc]

Lookie at what i built! More info in the indoor/micro forum!!

Greg

[umrk]

Lookie at what i built! More info in the indoor/micro forum!!

Greg


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302810

[John Boren]

I have posted the rest of my autogyro up on my web site. I had to post the body parts in DXF format.

http://www.aerocompositedesign.com/Products/RC_Electric_Airplane/Cap_232/indoor_gyro.html

John Boren

[umrk]

Thank you kind sir!

mike

[Aio_1]

Thanks John, that'll come in handy when I get around to either copying yours or trying my own.

Aidan

[gbarc]

Here's some pictures of my newest gyro. I worked out all the kinks and she flies! Working on getting some in flight pics soon!!


Greg

[Aio_1]

Looks great.

Are you still planning to retrofit with radio?

Aidan

[gbarc]

Aio,
RX has been added..you can barely see it but it's the RFFS-100. I just hadn't rigged rudder on it yet.


Greg

[Kitetamer]

Hi John and others that might be interested,
Here is a link to the final drawing on John Borens indoor gyro. http://www.skycamera.net/Indoor_Gyro_Final.pdf
Thanks go out to Cubby Boy. Thanks Cubby!
John thanks for the Tow! Hope this helps you. :)

[John Boren]

I don't believe this file will print out full size like it should, but I may be wrong.

John Boren

[Kitetamer]

Yeah, your right I can't get it to print full size, will the other format print out to full size if i bring it to Kinkos?

[John Boren]

Yes, my two files should print out to full size 11 x 17 paper.

John Boren

[dougmontgomery]

Lookie at what i built! More info in the indoor/micro forum!!

Greg Good job and clean,very clean. any video? I Haven't looked for it yet. Tryin to pull us over to the indoor forum huh. ok, Doug

[tnt2000]

Dear Gyronuts!!

I have read several time of www.autogyro.com and become default page for me.

I have built following two models.
BUT I did not have any luck...
Rotor did not spin enough to create lift...
Any suggestions?

:( :( :( :( :(

[AustinTatious]

Dear Gyronuts!!

I have read several time of www.autogyro.com and become default page for me.

I have built following two models.
BUT I did not have any luck...
Rotor did not spin enough to create lift...
Any suggestions?



really cool looking models! In the pics, yoru blades appear to be at a slightly positive angle of attack. Try adjustign them to around 0 to -1 degrees and see if they dont spin up better for you.

[David A Ramsey]

Dear Gyronuts!!:(


Your Gyros are fascinating. I'm wondering if you would consider starting a seperate thread for your models in order to keep the questions, responses and results focused on these models?

David

[tnt2000]

Dear David and Austin,

Thanks for your warm reply...

I am back from vacation today...
Let me think..whether I can do my own thread...
I am not that expert to do so...
Anyway, thanks for your suggestion..

tnt2000

:) :)

[Don Sims]

TNT it's easy to start a new thread just click on this button at the bottom of the page or the top of the page that says "New Thread".
Don

[Matt Chester]

Yeah TNT those are very nice designs. Lets see some more about them.