Donny Lyons
Oct 16, 2004, 02:00 AM
!Introduction
| spec2
| @908781
|> <b>Wingspan:</b> |< 30 Inches
|> <b>Wing Area:</b> |< 420 Sq. In.
|> <b>Weight:</b> |< 19 oz., Painted
|> <b>Wing Loading:</b> |< 6.5 oz./ Sq. Ft.
|> <b>Motor:</b> |< <a href="http://www.sigmfg.com">Norvel .061</a> with 6x3 Prop (APC)
|> <b>Props Tested:</b> |< Master Airscrew and APC 6x3 Prop
|> <b>Available From:</b> |< <a href="http://www.superflyrc.com">SuperFlyRC.com</a>
Do you enjoy the challenge of combat flying or just good ol' hot-dogging with an aircraft that flies slow as well as it does fast? If so, take a look at the Super Fly-nitro from <a href="http://www.superflyrc.com">SuperFlyRC.com</a>! The aircraft is made out of EPP foam, so it’s extremely durable, with composite control surfaces and tons of fun!
!Kit Contents
@908782:A simple stack of parts, all ready to go!
*Items Included:
*Wing halves
*Elevon control surfaces
*Control horns
*Push rods
*Engine mount plate
*Zip ties (lg & sml)
*Hardware
*Assembly manual
*Items Required:
*3-Mini servos
*1-Micro receiver
*1-150mah battery pack
*1-.061 2 stroke engine
*1-Norvell extend tank/mount
*1-6x3 prop (APC)
*Paint
*Duct tape
*Radio with elevon mixing
@908783: A closer look at the computer-cut wing halves. Very nicely done! <b>Note:</b> The rudders were cut from the center section "waste".
@908784: Glues that work well with EPP foam: ZAP-A-DAP-A-GOO (found at hobby shops)or GOOP (found at Walmart, KMart, etc.).
!Construction
The overall build time was just a couple of evenings!
!!Wing Assembly
@908785:Wing halves placed together, with cuts made.
@908786:Wing halves cut, glued & taped together and left to dry. With this type of glue, waiting for it to dry was the the most time consuming part.
!!Radio Installation
@908787:Next it was time to locate the servo locations and rudder positions.
@908788:Using a Dremel tool, I routed and removed the foam as required until the servos sat flush with top of wing.
@908789:Using masking tape, I taped up all servos so that all gluing was done to the taped surface instead of the actual servo case.
Next, I had to center the servos’ control arms at the elevons and set the throttle so that at full throttle the servo control horn was to the rear of the aircraft. The Norvel .061 throttle linkage was on the opposite side of the carb, so full throttle was to the rear. After I was satisfied with the servo setup, I glued the servos in and painted the tape and the exposed portions of the servo white. (Painting the servos white helped with the paint jobs’ continuity.) I used an artists acrylic and just rubbed it on with my fingers.
!!Rudders and Canopy
@908790:I cut the rudders from the center section scrap foam, using the templates provided in the manual.
Next was to cut the canopy and sand as required to get the desired shaping. Also, under the canopy I routered out an area large enough for the battery and receiver.
@908791:At this point I elected to paint all the parts to avoid overspray. The paint used for all color was Createx Auto Air, found at <a href="http://www.dickblick.com">“dickblick.com”</a>.
<b>NOTE:</b> At this time you will need to decide if you are building the aircraft for looks or for speed...more paint is heavier, but although it does look good, it could cause it to fly like a tank. The manufacturer cautions not to use too much paint, and it is excellent advice.
After painting all the parts I brushed a thin coat of Z-poxy mixture over the center area (including canopy and rudders), top and bottom of aircraft. The mixture was 30% Z-poxy with 70% denatured alcohol.
@908792:With the rudders installed, the elevon control surface installation (ala duct tape) was a snap!
@908793:Small zip ties were added at each elevon for combat. This was done to help maintain control, should it receive a direct hit to the tail section.
!!Engine Mounting
@908794:I glued the engine mount plate to the underside of the wing at the engine and securely taped it down to dry.
<b>Important note:</b>Using the recommended Norvel extend/mount (zip tied to the engine mount plate) is a must. This feature allows movement of the entire tank assembly for those less-than-perfect landings, and can be recentered, secured and back in the air very quickly.
!Flying
@908795:With all the major components in place, the Superfly Nitro was ready to hook up the control linkage and go flying!
I set the control throws as recommended, at 3/4" up and down, and set the low rates to 60% for smoother transitions and especially for landings. My CG was set at 9.5" from the front of the wing at the engine cavity. I would NOT recommend exceeding the stock settings or CG, at least until you've flown the model at these settings and determine if an even more extreme setup might be right for you. I chose not to use any Exponential in my radio, but some fliers may prefer it for softer feel around center, AFTER getting a good feel for the model's flight envelope.
+908796: Superfly Nitro Video, including a flat spin into the ground and right back in the air!
I could write pages on the Superfly Nitro's flight, but the video gives some great demonstrations of its performance. The Nitro's top speed was roughly 60MPH -- quick for something so small and maneuverable! The model flies best with the .061 Norvel screaming at a minimum of 16,400RPM! In the first portion of the video, the Norvel was 'detuned' to about 15,000 RPM, and the model struggled to maintain enough airspeed to fly properly. After that, the engine was tuned to 16,400+ and the aircraft flew easily at that speed and performance. Finally, the model spun into the ground after too many consecutive maneuvers bled off too much airspeed, and it was immediately back in the air!
The video was filmed while using a 6x3 Master Airscrew prop and flew very well. Later I mounted an APC, and picked up an extra 1700 rpms with 60% nitro. What a difference that made! For a 1/2A plane this is a screamer, and perfect for flying in the backyard as well as at the flying field. Bounce it off the ground, dust it off, start it up and away you go!
The Superfly Nitro lands predictably, but it is NOT a trainer, so do not try to glide a quarter mile to the runway! It is important to keep the airspeed reasonable and flair JUST before touchdown, and the nitro lands nicely.
I found the Superfly Nitro did tipstall when stalled with too little airspeed, whether on landing approach or otherwise, so it was important to learn the model's stall at reasonable heights and to keep the proper flight speed for landings. The model does not consistently stall to the same side, so it was not a balance or weight issue but rather a perfectly understandable aspect of such an aerobatic flying wing. The model easily recovered with opposite aileron, given enough altitude of course.
The Superfly is not intended to be a first or second aircraft, but on throws of 60-70% of the recommended high rates, could be a nice choice for learning to race pylons or just 'toss around' a very nimble flying wing.
!Conclusion
The instructions covered every aspect of this enjoyable, simple design. The kit has few parts and is ready to fly with little effort. The manufacturer even provides info on sealing the engine for pressure leaks and on hand launching! The only drawback I found in the manual is that it didn't mention that the Norvel has a reverse rotation carb, which caused me to dig the servo back out of the plane to resolve that problem.
The manufacturer cautions not to paint the entire model, unless you are experienced and VERY careful about the amount of paint you apply to avoid making the model too heavy to fly well. Excellent advice!
The plane flies great and turns on a dime. Getting used to the control response on hi rates is intense. A few key points to remember -- seal off any pressure leaks at the muffler connection and use a 6x3 APC prop with 40%+ nitro, and <b>hang on</b>. The video was filmed while using a 6x3 Master Airscrew prop and few very well. When I finally got a hold of an APC and picked up an extra 1700 rpms with 60% nitro. What a difference that made.
For a 1/2 A plane, this is a screamer and prefect for flying in the backyard as well as at the flying field. It is capable of being bounced off the ground, only requiring dusting off, starting it up and away you go!
This is definitely no park-flying-trainer, and requires an experienced pilot, but for those experienced enough to handle its responsiveness and speed, this is one FUN airplane!
| spec2
| @908781
|> <b>Wingspan:</b> |< 30 Inches
|> <b>Wing Area:</b> |< 420 Sq. In.
|> <b>Weight:</b> |< 19 oz., Painted
|> <b>Wing Loading:</b> |< 6.5 oz./ Sq. Ft.
|> <b>Motor:</b> |< <a href="http://www.sigmfg.com">Norvel .061</a> with 6x3 Prop (APC)
|> <b>Props Tested:</b> |< Master Airscrew and APC 6x3 Prop
|> <b>Available From:</b> |< <a href="http://www.superflyrc.com">SuperFlyRC.com</a>
Do you enjoy the challenge of combat flying or just good ol' hot-dogging with an aircraft that flies slow as well as it does fast? If so, take a look at the Super Fly-nitro from <a href="http://www.superflyrc.com">SuperFlyRC.com</a>! The aircraft is made out of EPP foam, so it’s extremely durable, with composite control surfaces and tons of fun!
!Kit Contents
@908782:A simple stack of parts, all ready to go!
*Items Included:
*Wing halves
*Elevon control surfaces
*Control horns
*Push rods
*Engine mount plate
*Zip ties (lg & sml)
*Hardware
*Assembly manual
*Items Required:
*3-Mini servos
*1-Micro receiver
*1-150mah battery pack
*1-.061 2 stroke engine
*1-Norvell extend tank/mount
*1-6x3 prop (APC)
*Paint
*Duct tape
*Radio with elevon mixing
@908783: A closer look at the computer-cut wing halves. Very nicely done! <b>Note:</b> The rudders were cut from the center section "waste".
@908784: Glues that work well with EPP foam: ZAP-A-DAP-A-GOO (found at hobby shops)or GOOP (found at Walmart, KMart, etc.).
!Construction
The overall build time was just a couple of evenings!
!!Wing Assembly
@908785:Wing halves placed together, with cuts made.
@908786:Wing halves cut, glued & taped together and left to dry. With this type of glue, waiting for it to dry was the the most time consuming part.
!!Radio Installation
@908787:Next it was time to locate the servo locations and rudder positions.
@908788:Using a Dremel tool, I routed and removed the foam as required until the servos sat flush with top of wing.
@908789:Using masking tape, I taped up all servos so that all gluing was done to the taped surface instead of the actual servo case.
Next, I had to center the servos’ control arms at the elevons and set the throttle so that at full throttle the servo control horn was to the rear of the aircraft. The Norvel .061 throttle linkage was on the opposite side of the carb, so full throttle was to the rear. After I was satisfied with the servo setup, I glued the servos in and painted the tape and the exposed portions of the servo white. (Painting the servos white helped with the paint jobs’ continuity.) I used an artists acrylic and just rubbed it on with my fingers.
!!Rudders and Canopy
@908790:I cut the rudders from the center section scrap foam, using the templates provided in the manual.
Next was to cut the canopy and sand as required to get the desired shaping. Also, under the canopy I routered out an area large enough for the battery and receiver.
@908791:At this point I elected to paint all the parts to avoid overspray. The paint used for all color was Createx Auto Air, found at <a href="http://www.dickblick.com">“dickblick.com”</a>.
<b>NOTE:</b> At this time you will need to decide if you are building the aircraft for looks or for speed...more paint is heavier, but although it does look good, it could cause it to fly like a tank. The manufacturer cautions not to use too much paint, and it is excellent advice.
After painting all the parts I brushed a thin coat of Z-poxy mixture over the center area (including canopy and rudders), top and bottom of aircraft. The mixture was 30% Z-poxy with 70% denatured alcohol.
@908792:With the rudders installed, the elevon control surface installation (ala duct tape) was a snap!
@908793:Small zip ties were added at each elevon for combat. This was done to help maintain control, should it receive a direct hit to the tail section.
!!Engine Mounting
@908794:I glued the engine mount plate to the underside of the wing at the engine and securely taped it down to dry.
<b>Important note:</b>Using the recommended Norvel extend/mount (zip tied to the engine mount plate) is a must. This feature allows movement of the entire tank assembly for those less-than-perfect landings, and can be recentered, secured and back in the air very quickly.
!Flying
@908795:With all the major components in place, the Superfly Nitro was ready to hook up the control linkage and go flying!
I set the control throws as recommended, at 3/4" up and down, and set the low rates to 60% for smoother transitions and especially for landings. My CG was set at 9.5" from the front of the wing at the engine cavity. I would NOT recommend exceeding the stock settings or CG, at least until you've flown the model at these settings and determine if an even more extreme setup might be right for you. I chose not to use any Exponential in my radio, but some fliers may prefer it for softer feel around center, AFTER getting a good feel for the model's flight envelope.
+908796: Superfly Nitro Video, including a flat spin into the ground and right back in the air!
I could write pages on the Superfly Nitro's flight, but the video gives some great demonstrations of its performance. The Nitro's top speed was roughly 60MPH -- quick for something so small and maneuverable! The model flies best with the .061 Norvel screaming at a minimum of 16,400RPM! In the first portion of the video, the Norvel was 'detuned' to about 15,000 RPM, and the model struggled to maintain enough airspeed to fly properly. After that, the engine was tuned to 16,400+ and the aircraft flew easily at that speed and performance. Finally, the model spun into the ground after too many consecutive maneuvers bled off too much airspeed, and it was immediately back in the air!
The video was filmed while using a 6x3 Master Airscrew prop and flew very well. Later I mounted an APC, and picked up an extra 1700 rpms with 60% nitro. What a difference that made! For a 1/2A plane this is a screamer, and perfect for flying in the backyard as well as at the flying field. Bounce it off the ground, dust it off, start it up and away you go!
The Superfly Nitro lands predictably, but it is NOT a trainer, so do not try to glide a quarter mile to the runway! It is important to keep the airspeed reasonable and flair JUST before touchdown, and the nitro lands nicely.
I found the Superfly Nitro did tipstall when stalled with too little airspeed, whether on landing approach or otherwise, so it was important to learn the model's stall at reasonable heights and to keep the proper flight speed for landings. The model does not consistently stall to the same side, so it was not a balance or weight issue but rather a perfectly understandable aspect of such an aerobatic flying wing. The model easily recovered with opposite aileron, given enough altitude of course.
The Superfly is not intended to be a first or second aircraft, but on throws of 60-70% of the recommended high rates, could be a nice choice for learning to race pylons or just 'toss around' a very nimble flying wing.
!Conclusion
The instructions covered every aspect of this enjoyable, simple design. The kit has few parts and is ready to fly with little effort. The manufacturer even provides info on sealing the engine for pressure leaks and on hand launching! The only drawback I found in the manual is that it didn't mention that the Norvel has a reverse rotation carb, which caused me to dig the servo back out of the plane to resolve that problem.
The manufacturer cautions not to paint the entire model, unless you are experienced and VERY careful about the amount of paint you apply to avoid making the model too heavy to fly well. Excellent advice!
The plane flies great and turns on a dime. Getting used to the control response on hi rates is intense. A few key points to remember -- seal off any pressure leaks at the muffler connection and use a 6x3 APC prop with 40%+ nitro, and <b>hang on</b>. The video was filmed while using a 6x3 Master Airscrew prop and few very well. When I finally got a hold of an APC and picked up an extra 1700 rpms with 60% nitro. What a difference that made.
For a 1/2 A plane, this is a screamer and prefect for flying in the backyard as well as at the flying field. It is capable of being bounced off the ground, only requiring dusting off, starting it up and away you go!
This is definitely no park-flying-trainer, and requires an experienced pilot, but for those experienced enough to handle its responsiveness and speed, this is one FUN airplane!