Leif Klassen
Jun 01, 1996, 01:00 AM
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<title>Electrification of the Gentle Lady</title>
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<pre>INTRODUCTION
First of all, if you are going to get a kit for electric, don't buy a Gentle
Lady! Why? Is it bad or ugly? No, it's easily built, flies well, no problem
to convert and rather cheap. But, there are already numerous kits out there
for electric: choose among them.
OK, you have a Gentle Lady or similar. I did get mine for X-mas, and boy, was I
thrilled !
I've made three major modifications:
1. Make it for electric operation
2. Put on ailerons also used as brakes (which was the main purpose)
3. Removable stabilizer for easy transportation
It's possible to make all of this modifications afterwards, but it's much better
and easier if you can do them during building. This article covers right now
the first item, to see a version with pictures and item 2-3 take a look at my
homepage at http://www.liber.se/^leifk/ .
MAKE IT FOR ELECTRIC OPERATION
I've used a standard direct drive Mabuchi 540 size, 8x6 folding Graupner prop,
7-cell 1700mH pack, electronic speed control and no BEC since this is a
sailplane! With this configuration I get about 6 minutes of motor time. First
lift max 3 min., second lift max 2.5 min., and afterwards you have a weak 30
seconds to go if you miss your landing spot. If you can afford it, I'd
recommend a geared and ballraced version (for example Graupner 600 BB geared),
this gives more climbing and more motor time.
MOTOR MOUNTING
OK, we start in the front and move backwards the body. Skip the nose-cone (you
did guess, ha). Make a new front former of 4mm balsa and 2mm ply, the balsa
forward. This is for forming the nose and hiding the motor screws. You have to
make it a little bit bigger than the original due to the diameter of the motor.
Mount it and shape the nose to fit the spinner you have.
Cut out air inlets on both sides. Mine are about 10x20mm located above the
motors inlet of course. Remember to cut in the "wind direction", there should
not be straight edges. If you look at them from the front, you should be able
to "look into them".
Wrap the forward part of the body with thin glass+epoxy (25g/m2) to avoid
splitting on hard landings. I have not and therefore I'm having this problem.
BATTERY PACK
Skip the former under the front edge of the wing. Build a battery bay instead of
2mm ply+ 4x4 balsa strip. Mount it so that you can slide the battery into place
through the front hatch, under the wing and down to the bottom of the fuselage.
This way, if you'r lucky, the battery will move forward-upward through the front
hatch in case of an crash. Under the ply, place a 5mm pine stick for the wing
rubber bands. This stick should be about 20mm widther than the body. Cut out a
small shelf of 0,6-1mm ply for the receiver, place it on top rear of the motor
battery along with 2 strips of 2x2mm balsa.
INSTALLATION
Counted from the front you will put in motor, speedcontrol, rec. battery under
the front of the motor battery (4x280mH), battery pack and above on the shelf
the receiver. And finally, two not so big servos for rudder and elevator. With
this arrangement I got the C.G right from the beginning. OK, take a look,
charge it up and go out to the field. Do some glide testing, should be no
problem. Motor on, throw it straight ahead, let it build up some speed and
then start climbing gently. Be kind with that up elevator or you will lose
speed and control.
Have Fun !!
Leif Klasson
<a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=leif.klasson&d=liber.postnet.se">leif.klasson(at)liber.postnet.se</a></pre>
</body>
</html>
<head>
<title>Electrification of the Gentle Lady</title>
</head>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<pre>INTRODUCTION
First of all, if you are going to get a kit for electric, don't buy a Gentle
Lady! Why? Is it bad or ugly? No, it's easily built, flies well, no problem
to convert and rather cheap. But, there are already numerous kits out there
for electric: choose among them.
OK, you have a Gentle Lady or similar. I did get mine for X-mas, and boy, was I
thrilled !
I've made three major modifications:
1. Make it for electric operation
2. Put on ailerons also used as brakes (which was the main purpose)
3. Removable stabilizer for easy transportation
It's possible to make all of this modifications afterwards, but it's much better
and easier if you can do them during building. This article covers right now
the first item, to see a version with pictures and item 2-3 take a look at my
homepage at http://www.liber.se/^leifk/ .
MAKE IT FOR ELECTRIC OPERATION
I've used a standard direct drive Mabuchi 540 size, 8x6 folding Graupner prop,
7-cell 1700mH pack, electronic speed control and no BEC since this is a
sailplane! With this configuration I get about 6 minutes of motor time. First
lift max 3 min., second lift max 2.5 min., and afterwards you have a weak 30
seconds to go if you miss your landing spot. If you can afford it, I'd
recommend a geared and ballraced version (for example Graupner 600 BB geared),
this gives more climbing and more motor time.
MOTOR MOUNTING
OK, we start in the front and move backwards the body. Skip the nose-cone (you
did guess, ha). Make a new front former of 4mm balsa and 2mm ply, the balsa
forward. This is for forming the nose and hiding the motor screws. You have to
make it a little bit bigger than the original due to the diameter of the motor.
Mount it and shape the nose to fit the spinner you have.
Cut out air inlets on both sides. Mine are about 10x20mm located above the
motors inlet of course. Remember to cut in the "wind direction", there should
not be straight edges. If you look at them from the front, you should be able
to "look into them".
Wrap the forward part of the body with thin glass+epoxy (25g/m2) to avoid
splitting on hard landings. I have not and therefore I'm having this problem.
BATTERY PACK
Skip the former under the front edge of the wing. Build a battery bay instead of
2mm ply+ 4x4 balsa strip. Mount it so that you can slide the battery into place
through the front hatch, under the wing and down to the bottom of the fuselage.
This way, if you'r lucky, the battery will move forward-upward through the front
hatch in case of an crash. Under the ply, place a 5mm pine stick for the wing
rubber bands. This stick should be about 20mm widther than the body. Cut out a
small shelf of 0,6-1mm ply for the receiver, place it on top rear of the motor
battery along with 2 strips of 2x2mm balsa.
INSTALLATION
Counted from the front you will put in motor, speedcontrol, rec. battery under
the front of the motor battery (4x280mH), battery pack and above on the shelf
the receiver. And finally, two not so big servos for rudder and elevator. With
this arrangement I got the C.G right from the beginning. OK, take a look,
charge it up and go out to the field. Do some glide testing, should be no
problem. Motor on, throw it straight ahead, let it build up some speed and
then start climbing gently. Be kind with that up elevator or you will lose
speed and control.
Have Fun !!
Leif Klasson
<a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=leif.klasson&d=liber.postnet.se">leif.klasson(at)liber.postnet.se</a></pre>
</body>
</html>