jbourke
Jan 01, 1997, 01:00 AM
<html>
<head>
<title>Getting Started in Electric R/C</title>
</head>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p><big>Introduction</big> </p>
<blockquote>
<p>If you are reading this then you probably have an interest in electric power for your
first R/C airplane. Conventional wisdom at many club fields is that electric power is not
suitable for a beginner. Glow flyers point to the lower power to weight ratio of electric
systems (which are realized as shorter durations and/or higher flying weights) as
nearly-insurmountable hurdles for new flyers. I have heard many instructors, some of whom
are even occasional flyers of electric planes, say that they strongly encourage new flyers
to start with glow power and move into electrics later if they still want to. </p>
<p>I’m here to tell you that you can fly electrics right from the start with no
trouble at all. In fact, I think that electrics are perfectly suited for the beginner. If
you want to start your entry into the hobby with an electric airplane then this is the
article for you. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Join the Club</big> </p>
<blockquote>
<p>A club membership is an extremely important part of your involvement with the hobby.
Clubs provide camaraderie, a maintained flying site, instructors, advice, and
(usually) enthusiasm for your decision to enter the hobby. Many areas have numerous
clubs available so don't be afraid to shop around. Most club memberships run
somewhere between $25 and $75 a year. </p>
<p>Some people try to go it alone. Its okay if you don't want to be a member of a
club but be aware that this will make learning more difficult. Personally,
I would never consider being without a club simply because I don't like to fly alone.
Besides, how could I show off my latest creation if I didn't belong to a club? </p>
<p>You may find that some clubs do not show much enthusiasm for electric airplanes.
There are two ways to approach this problem. As a beginner, you are perfectly
within your right to give up on the issue and walk away from such a club. If you
want to accept a challenge, though, then consider joining such a club in spite of the
resistance. That way you will have a chance to surprise people! One of my
flying friends used to give me a hard time about flying electrics. He was not joking
around about it, he simply did not like them and did not understand my decision to fly
them and wasn't afraid to tell me so. After a year of watching them perform and
watching my skills improve he has changed his tune. He is still, and probably will
always be, a glow-only flyer, but at least he has gained respect for our side of the
hobby. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Choosing a Good Instructor </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Most clubs provide instructors. If you are trying to learn without an instructor
then prepare yourself for an expensive hobby! Even if you have chosen a very docile
first airplane you need an instructor for your first few flights. Don't let pride
get in the way of common sense. </p>
<p>Any competent instructor can help you fly your electric airplane. Many
instructors are not familiar with electrics, but they fly the same as glow planes so you
shouldn't have any trouble getting someone to help you. Pick an instructor who seems
genuinely interested in helping you, who will make himself available at the field during
the times you are available, and who demonstrates competence in flying his own aircraft.
Stay away from instructors who double as the local "daredevil" pilot.
They may end up teaching you bad habits. </p>
<p>Typical electric trainers have less power than their glow counterparts. This
means that you need to find an instructor who does not rely on engine power to keep him
out of trouble. Find someone who flies airplanes with a low power loading
occasionally. </p>
<p>If you have a transmitter with a "buddy cord" ability, then you should try to
find an instructor who flies with a compatible radio. I highly recommend trainer
cords and I strongly suggest you purchase a transmitter with this capability. Trying
to yank the radio out of the hands of a student who airplane is about to crash is nearly
impossible. A trainer cord allows the instructor to calmly switch your transmitter
off and control your plane from his own. </p>
<p>People often ask about simulators. A simulator is an excellent way to build up
your piloting skills and I highly recommend them. They cannot take the place of an
instructor but they can go a long way toward building up the hand-eye coordination and
reflexes required to fly model planes. I personally own the Dave Brown simulator and
I find it to be an excellent tool. My one complaint is that the only electric plane
in the simulator is a ridiculously underpowered glider that performs with less climbing
ability than my speed 400 sailplane. Obviously, the author doesn't have a lot of
experience with electric gliders. Many of them can go vertical. For reference,
I feel that the "Intermediate" plane in the Dave Brown simulator is very similar
to a Sig Seniorita powered by 16 cells, except that the simulator plane does not stall as
abruptly and does not have as much power (it also doesn't fly inverted quite as well, but
thats hardly important to a beginner!). </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Finding a Mentor </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>One of the challenges you will face as an electric flyer is that you may find yourself
somewhat alone. Its easy to find an instructor at most clubs, but it may be very
difficult to find someone who understands how electric power systems work. Whereas
glow flyers have a ready pool of local flyers who can help them tune their engine, make
prop choices, troubleshoot problems, etc, electric flyers typically have to solve these
issues on their own. </p>
<p>I think the internet is a great place to get the information you need and can replace a
mentor in some ways. Clearly, there is no substitute for hands-on training, but most
of your questions can be answered on-line. I recommend you subscribe to the <a
href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/../pages/maillist.htm">EFLIGHT</a> mailing list to receive help with specific
questions. You can also use EFLIGHT to find a mentor in your area. </p>
<p>The perfect electric flight mentor is someone who has at least several years flying
electric planes. Find someone who does a lot of the work himself in regards to
making battery packs, timing motors, converting planes from glow to electric, etc. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>The Industry Conspiracy </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Another challenge you will have to overcome is the scarcity of electric flight
supplies. There are very few hobby stores that regularly stock quality electric
motors, chargers, speed controls, and battery packs. Even the ones that do carry our
equipment often do not understand our hobby. There is no "conspiracy" to
force beginning R/C-ers into glow power, but it does seem that the hobby industry is
caught up in a very fixed progression from .40 sized trainer to .60 sized warbird with
several intermediate steps. </p>
<p>Obviously, not everyone wants the same thing out of the hobby. Many people like
to fly electric gliders and never even consider scale. Some want to fly scale and
think gliders are ugly. As an electric flyer, you do not fit into the mold stamped
out by most of the hobby industry. Therefore, you will have a hard time finding the
supplies you want. </p>
<p>Recently, I went to a local hobby store and asked what electric supplies they had
available. The person responded to my query by pointing out a 3-channel 8-cell
electric glider. I responded that what I was really looking for was a motor that I
could use on 16 cells to power a .40 sized glow plane that I am converting to electric.
The person behind the counter was intrigued by the idea, but could not help me.
He remembered about a company named "Astro" that might be able to help me
out and said that he would be willing to place an order with them if I knew what I wanted.
The person was as helpful as he could be given the circumstance that he has
absolutely no exposure to electric airplanes run on 16 cells! </p>
<p>Most electric flyers rely on mail order for their purchases. New Creations R/C
and Model-Air Tech are two good companies to become familiar with as a beginner.
Don't forget to visit your local hobby shop every once in awhile and order things
there. The more the store owner is asked about electrics the more likely he will be
to carry them in the future. </p>
<p>As for the major distributors and the local hobby stores, don't worry, they will catch
up with us eventually! As electrics become more and more popular, more and more
stores will want to stock them. This in turn will cause the distributors to carry
the products, the manufacturers to make them, etc. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>The Stick Time Myth </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Glow power has an available energy density that far surpasses electric power at this
time. Many instructors and well-meaning club members point to short durations as
electric power’s greatest disadvantage. </p>
<p>In many cases this is due to a misconception caused by a limited exposure to electric
airplanes. Recently I belonged to a club that had several members who had never even seen
an electric airplane fly before I brought mine to the field. Much of their information to
that point had been word-of-mouth anecdotes passed down from a time when electric power
was based on ferrite motors and 1200mah cells. Electrics have come a long way since then.
It is not uncommon for a cabin, high-wing type plane (such as a Sig Seniorita powered on
10 to 16 cells) to routinely log 10 minute flights with numerous touch and goes . This is
plenty of time for a beginner. </p>
<p>However, this isn’t all there is to the “stick time” equation. There is
another, possibly more important, aspect of stick time that is sometimes forgotten by
seasoned modelers. Beginners to R/C traditionally have had to spend a great deal of their
time learning how to reliably operate their powerplant. Meanwhile, an electric pilot
typically takes the reliability of his equipment for granted. </p>
<p>When I go to a flying field I am able to spend 90% of my time in the air. By bringing
several battery packs and swapping packs between flights the amount of stick time I get at
the field is very high. A properly maintained glow engine will provide reliable service
also, but there is a learning curve involved that causes new flyers to spend a great deal
of time in the pits. Even seasoned pilots are occasionally frustrated by an engine that
runs fine in the pits, but stops as soon as the plane is brought out to the runway. All
this time spent adjusting engines is time taken away from flying. You can maximize your
stick time by flying electrics. In fact, you will soon find yourself frustrated by
the amount of time you must wait for glow flyers to start their aircraft while you sit
waiting for your frequency to become available. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Safety </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>One of the reasons I do not fly glow powered planes is I simply do not like to have my
fingers close to the prop. Maybe its because I’ve flown full scale or something, but
I find myself extremely wary of putting my body anywhere near the front of an airplane
while the throttle is engaged. </p>
<p>To adjust the mixture of a glow engine requires that the pilot place his fingers within
a couple of inches of a propeller that is spinning at over 10,000 RPM. This is a recipe
for disaster and every year someone I know is hurt by it. To be fair, there are plenty of
engines available with remote “needle valves” as they are called, but the fact
remains that the majority of pilots do not use them and the end result is the potential
for a maiming injury. </p>
<p>The fact that electric motors start at the flip of a switch is both a blessing and a
curse from a safety standpoint. An electric flyer is less likely to be hurt by a
prop once it is spinning because the power plant doesn't need adjustment, but he is much
more likely to be hurt by a motor that is accidentally armed. Get in the practice of
never, ever putting your hands near a mounted prop. Use an arming switch for added
safety and always disconnect the battery when not in use. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Advice From Experts </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ve asked several recognized experts to help me advise you on getting started.
Feel free to contact them for further info or if you have any questions. Consider them to
be your virtual mentors. </p>
<p>Read Advice from: <dl>
<dt><a href="#den">Dennis Weatherly</a> </dt>
<dd>Dennis is an accomplished flyer who has recently written a conversion article of the Ace
Cloud Dancer for RCM. </dd>
<dt><a href="#doug">Doug Ingraham</a> </dt>
<dd>Doug owns Lofty Pursuits, maker of the LPSC-mini speed control, a popular control for
speed 400 pylon racing. </dd>
<dt><a href="#jay">Jay Burkart</a> </dt>
<dd>Jay is a designer and builder who often works with the Hobby Lobby Corporation.
Jay recently mopped up the competition at the 1996 SAM champs by taking 1st place in
every electric event. </dd>
<dt><a href="#tom">Tom Hunt</a> </dt>
<dd>Tom is the owner of ModelAir-Tech and is the designer of several very popular airplanes,
including the Dim-Watt, Megawatt, and Bare Bones pylon racer. </dd>
<dt><a href="#jim">Jim Bourke</a> </dt>
<dd>Jim is a strange little man who spends his free time sitting at a computer vicariously
living out his hobby through the experiences of others. </dd>
<dt> </dt>
</dl>
</blockquote>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="den"><u>Advice From Dennis Weatherly</u></a> </p>
<p>My advice boils down to two major areas: Equipment and Knowledge. Both are critical to
a newcomer's success with electric power. </p>
<h3>Equipment </h3>
<p>Above all, buy quality stuff. This means a good motor, a good motor controller, good
batteries, good wire, good connectors and a good peak-detecting charger. This does NOT
necessarily have to be expensive. If you want to keep the costs down then consider a
quality ferrite motor rather than a cobalt one. Or maybe a smaller power system, like a
Speed 400 setup rather than an Astro 25 setup. Or maybe save a bit on the charger by
choosing a seven cell charger rather than an 18 cell charger. </p>
<h3>Knowledge </h3>
<p>How does a newcomer learn about the "quality stuff"? Ask questions. There is
a rapidly growing base of knowledge available now. Most folks in the electric power field
are more than happy to share their experiences. If I had to provide a single starting
point for information I would point the newcomer at the Eflight mailing list or the E-Zone
web page. In my opinion a better compilation and cross section of information does not
exist. If the newcomer does not have Internet access then I would refer them to New
Creations R/C for advice and assistance. </p>
<p>Send email to <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=dennis_weatherly&d=ezonemag.com">Dennis Weatherly.</a> </p>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="doug">Advice From Doug Ingraham</a> </p>
<p>When I first decided to try electric powered flight I had been flying RC for about 20
years. I had a firm grasp of what was needed for successful wet powered flight but no idea
of where to go for information about electrics. </p>
<p>I started by reading all I could find in all the magazines. I bought every book I could
find about electric flight. One day a magazine arrived that had an article in it covering
this electric only event. The event was called KRC and was in Quakertown PA in mid
September. I decided then and there that I was going to attend the next year even though
it was about 2000 travel miles for me. I spent the next 8 months flying my Kyosho Flash
(my first electric), finishing my Telemaster 40 (my second electric) and flying my Ultra
Sport 40 (my last wet powered plane). </p>
<p>When KRC time approached I began to anticipate how much I would learn from observing
other peoples models and methods. To say that I was totally unprepared for the experience
would be an understatement. I was completely overwhelmed. I am still amazed at the number
of people out there that share my passion for this aspect of my hobby. I learned more in
the first couple of hours than I had in the previous year and a half. The people are
all so friendly and were willing to answer any question. The planes all flew so well and
there were so many to look at. </p>
<p>The most important thing you can do to be successful at electric flight is to get help.
You have a real good start already because you have this club of electric fliers that we
call Eflight, the EZONE web page and the electric flight FAQ which has so much information
in it. But hands on and in person will teach you so much more than all these resources. I
suggest you make plans to attend one of the medium sized electric flyins as soon as
possible. Pick the one closest to you, rather than deciding you have to go to KRC. There
are many to choose from. I feel that KRC is now too big and there is too much going on. If
you do go to KRC, you don't need to bring a plane and fly. There will be plenty to keep
your attention. And unless you frequently fly at a field where there are an average of 6-8
planes in the air at a time you will not be comfortable flying there. </p>
<p>The events I have attended and highly recommend are the Mid America Electric Fly in
Saline Michigan. The Boeing Hawks electric flyin which is in Seattle Washington. There is
a flyin near New Orleans that I attended one year. Events I have heard a lot about but not
attended are the DEAF flyin in Dallas Texas, the electric NATS. The Astro Champs in the
Los Angeles area. There are many others. And I wish I could attend them all! </p>
<p>Send email to <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=dpi&d=rapidnet.com">Doug Ingraham</a> </p>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="jay">Advice From Jay Burkart</a> </p>
<p>Getting started in Electric flying is a challenge for the resourceful and diligent
modeler. It's a balancing act of Plane, power/weight, craftsmanship and skill of the
modeler/pilot. The reward is clean quiet flight in harmony with nature and your fellow
man. I do it because it's very rewarding and great performance is a technical challenge. </p>
<p>A little bit of advice when starting:
<ul>
<li>Find a successful electric flyer, if at all possible, and follow his advice </li>
<li>Buy the best equipment you can afford (cheap or marginal is the root of most problems) </li>
<li>Start with an electric motor-glider </li>
<li>Stay in the 7 cell category of electric kits </li>
<li>Go for light wing loading 10 oz/sq ft. </li>
<li>Learn to solder well </li>
</ul>
<p>Send email to <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=jay_burkart&d=hp-usa-om21.om.hp.com">Jay Burkart</a> </p>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="tom">Advice From Tom Hunt</a> </p>
<p>Tom Hunt's Pearls of Wisdom:
<ol>
<li>Seek out instructors... don't go it alone. </li>
<li>Build as big a model as you can afford. </li>
<li>Buy "dual rate" radios minimum </li>
<li>Buddy cords ok but not necessary </li>
<li>Instructors should get full command authority (high rate) the beginners 1/2 to 1/4 rate
(low dual rate) </li>
</ol>
<p>Send email to <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=thunt95147&d=aol.com">Tom Hunt</a> </p>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="jim">Advice From Jim Bourke</a> </p>
<p>I really recommend that everyone start with a powered glider of the 2 meter variety. A
powered glider will get you familiar with the power system and provide you with a relaxing
trainer. You will have no trouble achieving 20+ minute flight times with well-chosen yet
economical setups. Gliders provide high positive stability and low wingloadings. The
Goldberg Electra is often recommended but the stock motor and prop combination do not
provide very much power. The addition of an inexpensive ($20) Master Airscrew
gearbox/prop combination increases the climb rate of an Electra tremendously. If you
choose a glider that is smaller than 2 meters then you will have to purchase micro-servos
instead of the regular size which will increase your initial expense. </p>
<p>If you don't like gliders then skip the above step and move right into a high-wing
trainer. The obvious selection is the Sig Seniorita, due to its low weight. </p>
<p>Before you buy anything, you should spend some time evaluating your goals. If
your goal is to fly 1/4 scale aircraft then you will want to start with the Seniorita.
If your goal is to fly electric gliders then start with an Electra. If your
goal is to fly speed 400 pylon then begin with a speed 400 glider. Determine your
goals right away so that you will buy the correct scale of equipment and not have to
re-purchase your supplies later. </p>
<p>Regardless of which set-up you choose, the most important advice is that you should
never feel afraid or embarrassed to ask for help. Here are some internet resources
that are available for you:
<dl>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/../pages/efaq.htm">The Electric Flight FAQ</a> </dt>
<dd>A FAQ is a frequently asked questions list. Not every question you have will be
answered, but we try! This is the first place you should go to for technical answers
to questions. If a question you have isn't answered by the FAQ, please email the
maintainer and ask to have it included in the next release. </dd>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/../pages/maillist.htm">The EFLIGHT Mailing List</a> </dt>
<dd>EFLIGHT is a place where fellow electric flyers hang out. There are hundreds of
flyers there who will be happy to help you. </dd>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/../pages/articles.htm">The E Zone Articles Archive</a> </dt>
<dd>All the past E Zone articles are stored here. If you start reading them you will
get a good idea as to what kinds of things people are doing. You will get some good
ideas out of these articles. </dd>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/ftp://ftp.ezonemag.com/pub">The Electric Flight FTP site</a> </dt>
<dd>This site contains all the past EFLIGHT digests. </dd>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/www.ezonemag.com/links2">The E-Zone Links Page</a> </dt>
<dd>From here you can visit several other established sites that are devoted to electric
flight. </dd>
</dl>
<p> </p>
</body>
</html>
<head>
<title>Getting Started in Electric R/C</title>
</head>
<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
<p><big>Introduction</big> </p>
<blockquote>
<p>If you are reading this then you probably have an interest in electric power for your
first R/C airplane. Conventional wisdom at many club fields is that electric power is not
suitable for a beginner. Glow flyers point to the lower power to weight ratio of electric
systems (which are realized as shorter durations and/or higher flying weights) as
nearly-insurmountable hurdles for new flyers. I have heard many instructors, some of whom
are even occasional flyers of electric planes, say that they strongly encourage new flyers
to start with glow power and move into electrics later if they still want to. </p>
<p>I’m here to tell you that you can fly electrics right from the start with no
trouble at all. In fact, I think that electrics are perfectly suited for the beginner. If
you want to start your entry into the hobby with an electric airplane then this is the
article for you. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Join the Club</big> </p>
<blockquote>
<p>A club membership is an extremely important part of your involvement with the hobby.
Clubs provide camaraderie, a maintained flying site, instructors, advice, and
(usually) enthusiasm for your decision to enter the hobby. Many areas have numerous
clubs available so don't be afraid to shop around. Most club memberships run
somewhere between $25 and $75 a year. </p>
<p>Some people try to go it alone. Its okay if you don't want to be a member of a
club but be aware that this will make learning more difficult. Personally,
I would never consider being without a club simply because I don't like to fly alone.
Besides, how could I show off my latest creation if I didn't belong to a club? </p>
<p>You may find that some clubs do not show much enthusiasm for electric airplanes.
There are two ways to approach this problem. As a beginner, you are perfectly
within your right to give up on the issue and walk away from such a club. If you
want to accept a challenge, though, then consider joining such a club in spite of the
resistance. That way you will have a chance to surprise people! One of my
flying friends used to give me a hard time about flying electrics. He was not joking
around about it, he simply did not like them and did not understand my decision to fly
them and wasn't afraid to tell me so. After a year of watching them perform and
watching my skills improve he has changed his tune. He is still, and probably will
always be, a glow-only flyer, but at least he has gained respect for our side of the
hobby. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Choosing a Good Instructor </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Most clubs provide instructors. If you are trying to learn without an instructor
then prepare yourself for an expensive hobby! Even if you have chosen a very docile
first airplane you need an instructor for your first few flights. Don't let pride
get in the way of common sense. </p>
<p>Any competent instructor can help you fly your electric airplane. Many
instructors are not familiar with electrics, but they fly the same as glow planes so you
shouldn't have any trouble getting someone to help you. Pick an instructor who seems
genuinely interested in helping you, who will make himself available at the field during
the times you are available, and who demonstrates competence in flying his own aircraft.
Stay away from instructors who double as the local "daredevil" pilot.
They may end up teaching you bad habits. </p>
<p>Typical electric trainers have less power than their glow counterparts. This
means that you need to find an instructor who does not rely on engine power to keep him
out of trouble. Find someone who flies airplanes with a low power loading
occasionally. </p>
<p>If you have a transmitter with a "buddy cord" ability, then you should try to
find an instructor who flies with a compatible radio. I highly recommend trainer
cords and I strongly suggest you purchase a transmitter with this capability. Trying
to yank the radio out of the hands of a student who airplane is about to crash is nearly
impossible. A trainer cord allows the instructor to calmly switch your transmitter
off and control your plane from his own. </p>
<p>People often ask about simulators. A simulator is an excellent way to build up
your piloting skills and I highly recommend them. They cannot take the place of an
instructor but they can go a long way toward building up the hand-eye coordination and
reflexes required to fly model planes. I personally own the Dave Brown simulator and
I find it to be an excellent tool. My one complaint is that the only electric plane
in the simulator is a ridiculously underpowered glider that performs with less climbing
ability than my speed 400 sailplane. Obviously, the author doesn't have a lot of
experience with electric gliders. Many of them can go vertical. For reference,
I feel that the "Intermediate" plane in the Dave Brown simulator is very similar
to a Sig Seniorita powered by 16 cells, except that the simulator plane does not stall as
abruptly and does not have as much power (it also doesn't fly inverted quite as well, but
thats hardly important to a beginner!). </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Finding a Mentor </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>One of the challenges you will face as an electric flyer is that you may find yourself
somewhat alone. Its easy to find an instructor at most clubs, but it may be very
difficult to find someone who understands how electric power systems work. Whereas
glow flyers have a ready pool of local flyers who can help them tune their engine, make
prop choices, troubleshoot problems, etc, electric flyers typically have to solve these
issues on their own. </p>
<p>I think the internet is a great place to get the information you need and can replace a
mentor in some ways. Clearly, there is no substitute for hands-on training, but most
of your questions can be answered on-line. I recommend you subscribe to the <a
href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/../pages/maillist.htm">EFLIGHT</a> mailing list to receive help with specific
questions. You can also use EFLIGHT to find a mentor in your area. </p>
<p>The perfect electric flight mentor is someone who has at least several years flying
electric planes. Find someone who does a lot of the work himself in regards to
making battery packs, timing motors, converting planes from glow to electric, etc. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>The Industry Conspiracy </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Another challenge you will have to overcome is the scarcity of electric flight
supplies. There are very few hobby stores that regularly stock quality electric
motors, chargers, speed controls, and battery packs. Even the ones that do carry our
equipment often do not understand our hobby. There is no "conspiracy" to
force beginning R/C-ers into glow power, but it does seem that the hobby industry is
caught up in a very fixed progression from .40 sized trainer to .60 sized warbird with
several intermediate steps. </p>
<p>Obviously, not everyone wants the same thing out of the hobby. Many people like
to fly electric gliders and never even consider scale. Some want to fly scale and
think gliders are ugly. As an electric flyer, you do not fit into the mold stamped
out by most of the hobby industry. Therefore, you will have a hard time finding the
supplies you want. </p>
<p>Recently, I went to a local hobby store and asked what electric supplies they had
available. The person responded to my query by pointing out a 3-channel 8-cell
electric glider. I responded that what I was really looking for was a motor that I
could use on 16 cells to power a .40 sized glow plane that I am converting to electric.
The person behind the counter was intrigued by the idea, but could not help me.
He remembered about a company named "Astro" that might be able to help me
out and said that he would be willing to place an order with them if I knew what I wanted.
The person was as helpful as he could be given the circumstance that he has
absolutely no exposure to electric airplanes run on 16 cells! </p>
<p>Most electric flyers rely on mail order for their purchases. New Creations R/C
and Model-Air Tech are two good companies to become familiar with as a beginner.
Don't forget to visit your local hobby shop every once in awhile and order things
there. The more the store owner is asked about electrics the more likely he will be
to carry them in the future. </p>
<p>As for the major distributors and the local hobby stores, don't worry, they will catch
up with us eventually! As electrics become more and more popular, more and more
stores will want to stock them. This in turn will cause the distributors to carry
the products, the manufacturers to make them, etc. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>The Stick Time Myth </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>Glow power has an available energy density that far surpasses electric power at this
time. Many instructors and well-meaning club members point to short durations as
electric power’s greatest disadvantage. </p>
<p>In many cases this is due to a misconception caused by a limited exposure to electric
airplanes. Recently I belonged to a club that had several members who had never even seen
an electric airplane fly before I brought mine to the field. Much of their information to
that point had been word-of-mouth anecdotes passed down from a time when electric power
was based on ferrite motors and 1200mah cells. Electrics have come a long way since then.
It is not uncommon for a cabin, high-wing type plane (such as a Sig Seniorita powered on
10 to 16 cells) to routinely log 10 minute flights with numerous touch and goes . This is
plenty of time for a beginner. </p>
<p>However, this isn’t all there is to the “stick time” equation. There is
another, possibly more important, aspect of stick time that is sometimes forgotten by
seasoned modelers. Beginners to R/C traditionally have had to spend a great deal of their
time learning how to reliably operate their powerplant. Meanwhile, an electric pilot
typically takes the reliability of his equipment for granted. </p>
<p>When I go to a flying field I am able to spend 90% of my time in the air. By bringing
several battery packs and swapping packs between flights the amount of stick time I get at
the field is very high. A properly maintained glow engine will provide reliable service
also, but there is a learning curve involved that causes new flyers to spend a great deal
of time in the pits. Even seasoned pilots are occasionally frustrated by an engine that
runs fine in the pits, but stops as soon as the plane is brought out to the runway. All
this time spent adjusting engines is time taken away from flying. You can maximize your
stick time by flying electrics. In fact, you will soon find yourself frustrated by
the amount of time you must wait for glow flyers to start their aircraft while you sit
waiting for your frequency to become available. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Safety </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>One of the reasons I do not fly glow powered planes is I simply do not like to have my
fingers close to the prop. Maybe its because I’ve flown full scale or something, but
I find myself extremely wary of putting my body anywhere near the front of an airplane
while the throttle is engaged. </p>
<p>To adjust the mixture of a glow engine requires that the pilot place his fingers within
a couple of inches of a propeller that is spinning at over 10,000 RPM. This is a recipe
for disaster and every year someone I know is hurt by it. To be fair, there are plenty of
engines available with remote “needle valves” as they are called, but the fact
remains that the majority of pilots do not use them and the end result is the potential
for a maiming injury. </p>
<p>The fact that electric motors start at the flip of a switch is both a blessing and a
curse from a safety standpoint. An electric flyer is less likely to be hurt by a
prop once it is spinning because the power plant doesn't need adjustment, but he is much
more likely to be hurt by a motor that is accidentally armed. Get in the practice of
never, ever putting your hands near a mounted prop. Use an arming switch for added
safety and always disconnect the battery when not in use. </p>
<p> </p>
</blockquote>
<p><big>Advice From Experts </big></p>
<blockquote>
<p>I’ve asked several recognized experts to help me advise you on getting started.
Feel free to contact them for further info or if you have any questions. Consider them to
be your virtual mentors. </p>
<p>Read Advice from: <dl>
<dt><a href="#den">Dennis Weatherly</a> </dt>
<dd>Dennis is an accomplished flyer who has recently written a conversion article of the Ace
Cloud Dancer for RCM. </dd>
<dt><a href="#doug">Doug Ingraham</a> </dt>
<dd>Doug owns Lofty Pursuits, maker of the LPSC-mini speed control, a popular control for
speed 400 pylon racing. </dd>
<dt><a href="#jay">Jay Burkart</a> </dt>
<dd>Jay is a designer and builder who often works with the Hobby Lobby Corporation.
Jay recently mopped up the competition at the 1996 SAM champs by taking 1st place in
every electric event. </dd>
<dt><a href="#tom">Tom Hunt</a> </dt>
<dd>Tom is the owner of ModelAir-Tech and is the designer of several very popular airplanes,
including the Dim-Watt, Megawatt, and Bare Bones pylon racer. </dd>
<dt><a href="#jim">Jim Bourke</a> </dt>
<dd>Jim is a strange little man who spends his free time sitting at a computer vicariously
living out his hobby through the experiences of others. </dd>
<dt> </dt>
</dl>
</blockquote>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="den"><u>Advice From Dennis Weatherly</u></a> </p>
<p>My advice boils down to two major areas: Equipment and Knowledge. Both are critical to
a newcomer's success with electric power. </p>
<h3>Equipment </h3>
<p>Above all, buy quality stuff. This means a good motor, a good motor controller, good
batteries, good wire, good connectors and a good peak-detecting charger. This does NOT
necessarily have to be expensive. If you want to keep the costs down then consider a
quality ferrite motor rather than a cobalt one. Or maybe a smaller power system, like a
Speed 400 setup rather than an Astro 25 setup. Or maybe save a bit on the charger by
choosing a seven cell charger rather than an 18 cell charger. </p>
<h3>Knowledge </h3>
<p>How does a newcomer learn about the "quality stuff"? Ask questions. There is
a rapidly growing base of knowledge available now. Most folks in the electric power field
are more than happy to share their experiences. If I had to provide a single starting
point for information I would point the newcomer at the Eflight mailing list or the E-Zone
web page. In my opinion a better compilation and cross section of information does not
exist. If the newcomer does not have Internet access then I would refer them to New
Creations R/C for advice and assistance. </p>
<p>Send email to <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=dennis_weatherly&d=ezonemag.com">Dennis Weatherly.</a> </p>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="doug">Advice From Doug Ingraham</a> </p>
<p>When I first decided to try electric powered flight I had been flying RC for about 20
years. I had a firm grasp of what was needed for successful wet powered flight but no idea
of where to go for information about electrics. </p>
<p>I started by reading all I could find in all the magazines. I bought every book I could
find about electric flight. One day a magazine arrived that had an article in it covering
this electric only event. The event was called KRC and was in Quakertown PA in mid
September. I decided then and there that I was going to attend the next year even though
it was about 2000 travel miles for me. I spent the next 8 months flying my Kyosho Flash
(my first electric), finishing my Telemaster 40 (my second electric) and flying my Ultra
Sport 40 (my last wet powered plane). </p>
<p>When KRC time approached I began to anticipate how much I would learn from observing
other peoples models and methods. To say that I was totally unprepared for the experience
would be an understatement. I was completely overwhelmed. I am still amazed at the number
of people out there that share my passion for this aspect of my hobby. I learned more in
the first couple of hours than I had in the previous year and a half. The people are
all so friendly and were willing to answer any question. The planes all flew so well and
there were so many to look at. </p>
<p>The most important thing you can do to be successful at electric flight is to get help.
You have a real good start already because you have this club of electric fliers that we
call Eflight, the EZONE web page and the electric flight FAQ which has so much information
in it. But hands on and in person will teach you so much more than all these resources. I
suggest you make plans to attend one of the medium sized electric flyins as soon as
possible. Pick the one closest to you, rather than deciding you have to go to KRC. There
are many to choose from. I feel that KRC is now too big and there is too much going on. If
you do go to KRC, you don't need to bring a plane and fly. There will be plenty to keep
your attention. And unless you frequently fly at a field where there are an average of 6-8
planes in the air at a time you will not be comfortable flying there. </p>
<p>The events I have attended and highly recommend are the Mid America Electric Fly in
Saline Michigan. The Boeing Hawks electric flyin which is in Seattle Washington. There is
a flyin near New Orleans that I attended one year. Events I have heard a lot about but not
attended are the DEAF flyin in Dallas Texas, the electric NATS. The Astro Champs in the
Los Angeles area. There are many others. And I wish I could attend them all! </p>
<p>Send email to <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=dpi&d=rapidnet.com">Doug Ingraham</a> </p>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="jay">Advice From Jay Burkart</a> </p>
<p>Getting started in Electric flying is a challenge for the resourceful and diligent
modeler. It's a balancing act of Plane, power/weight, craftsmanship and skill of the
modeler/pilot. The reward is clean quiet flight in harmony with nature and your fellow
man. I do it because it's very rewarding and great performance is a technical challenge. </p>
<p>A little bit of advice when starting:
<ul>
<li>Find a successful electric flyer, if at all possible, and follow his advice </li>
<li>Buy the best equipment you can afford (cheap or marginal is the root of most problems) </li>
<li>Start with an electric motor-glider </li>
<li>Stay in the 7 cell category of electric kits </li>
<li>Go for light wing loading 10 oz/sq ft. </li>
<li>Learn to solder well </li>
</ul>
<p>Send email to <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=jay_burkart&d=hp-usa-om21.om.hp.com">Jay Burkart</a> </p>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="tom">Advice From Tom Hunt</a> </p>
<p>Tom Hunt's Pearls of Wisdom:
<ol>
<li>Seek out instructors... don't go it alone. </li>
<li>Build as big a model as you can afford. </li>
<li>Buy "dual rate" radios minimum </li>
<li>Buddy cords ok but not necessary </li>
<li>Instructors should get full command authority (high rate) the beginners 1/2 to 1/4 rate
(low dual rate) </li>
</ol>
<p>Send email to <a href="http://rcgroups.com/shared/nospam.php?u=thunt95147&d=aol.com">Tom Hunt</a> </p>
<hr>
<p align="center"><a name="jim">Advice From Jim Bourke</a> </p>
<p>I really recommend that everyone start with a powered glider of the 2 meter variety. A
powered glider will get you familiar with the power system and provide you with a relaxing
trainer. You will have no trouble achieving 20+ minute flight times with well-chosen yet
economical setups. Gliders provide high positive stability and low wingloadings. The
Goldberg Electra is often recommended but the stock motor and prop combination do not
provide very much power. The addition of an inexpensive ($20) Master Airscrew
gearbox/prop combination increases the climb rate of an Electra tremendously. If you
choose a glider that is smaller than 2 meters then you will have to purchase micro-servos
instead of the regular size which will increase your initial expense. </p>
<p>If you don't like gliders then skip the above step and move right into a high-wing
trainer. The obvious selection is the Sig Seniorita, due to its low weight. </p>
<p>Before you buy anything, you should spend some time evaluating your goals. If
your goal is to fly 1/4 scale aircraft then you will want to start with the Seniorita.
If your goal is to fly electric gliders then start with an Electra. If your
goal is to fly speed 400 pylon then begin with a speed 400 glider. Determine your
goals right away so that you will buy the correct scale of equipment and not have to
re-purchase your supplies later. </p>
<p>Regardless of which set-up you choose, the most important advice is that you should
never feel afraid or embarrassed to ask for help. Here are some internet resources
that are available for you:
<dl>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/../pages/efaq.htm">The Electric Flight FAQ</a> </dt>
<dd>A FAQ is a frequently asked questions list. Not every question you have will be
answered, but we try! This is the first place you should go to for technical answers
to questions. If a question you have isn't answered by the FAQ, please email the
maintainer and ask to have it included in the next release. </dd>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/../pages/maillist.htm">The EFLIGHT Mailing List</a> </dt>
<dd>EFLIGHT is a place where fellow electric flyers hang out. There are hundreds of
flyers there who will be happy to help you. </dd>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/../pages/articles.htm">The E Zone Articles Archive</a> </dt>
<dd>All the past E Zone articles are stored here. If you start reading them you will
get a good idea as to what kinds of things people are doing. You will get some good
ideas out of these articles. </dd>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/ftp://ftp.ezonemag.com/pub">The Electric Flight FTP site</a> </dt>
<dd>This site contains all the past EFLIGHT digests. </dd>
<dt><a href="/articles/ezonemag/1997/www.ezonemag.com/links2">The E-Zone Links Page</a> </dt>
<dd>From here you can visit several other established sites that are devoted to electric
flight. </dd>
</dl>
<p> </p>
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