My Atmel-Based Camera Switch

[maxalentix]

I learned to program Atmel Microcontrollers last winter, and I finally built something that I can use! The Camera Switch uses an Atmel AT90S2313 and an AQW210 dual PhotoMOS switch. The board has 2 outputs, so it can control 2 devices. It is in-system programmable, and it works perfectly with my Kodak CX7300 EasyShare camera. I Programmed it in assembler.

I used a EagleCAD to design the board. The layout was then printed onto a transparency, developed and finally etched using a PC board with a photo-sensitive coating. The Board kit is made by MG Chemicals sold at Fry's. I am very pleased with the quality of MG Chemical's boards. Weight is 12 grams.

--Gary

[zagisrule!]

Nice etch results, looks like the PCB was routed by the autorouter?

I use the same etching system as you do, I am pleased with the results as well. I have also used toner transfer with varying degrees of sucess, but the pre-sensitized boards are the way I like to go.

Nice.



-Matt

[j8m8l]

Nice switch maxalentix. I really need to start learning how to program microcontrollers soon! How does the Autorouter PCB thing work?

Thanks
Josh

[maxalentix]

Thanks for the compliments!

Matt,

Yes, I used the autorouter, but I had a few unrouted wires at the end. I added a few vias and 2 top-side traces which resulted in the 2 solid-wire jumpers that you see on the top-side. A few "jumpers" are not a problem though. I agree, the pre-sensitized boards produced results beyond what I ever imagined!

Josh,

You can download Eagle CAD here http://www.cadsoftusa.com Basically, you draw the schematic using the Eagle schematic editor, you set your parameters for the board, then you press "autoroute" and Eagle figures out the physical layout right before your eyes. It's a very nice package, although it is confusing to learn at first. I am still learning how to use it. There is a tutorial on that website that is very useful. Also, the software is free if your board does not exceed a certain size.

--Gary

[j8m8l]

Thanks Gary,

I have used Eagle before for PCB design, but couldnt work out the schematic editor so did the PCB "by hand". Guess I will have another go, it took me ages to work it all out myself.

Josh

[zagisrule!]

Eagle is a fairly straight-forward package, and it is free for hobby things...

It is easy to spot an autorouted board from because it is not consistent, making little tweaks and turns that are not necessary and would not have been hand-routed in that fashion. It does make things easier though!

Gary, I use the sun as my "exposure lamp," what do you use? I am wondering whether or not it is worth purchasing a UV lamp. The problem I get with using the sun is that it is so intense that the light sometimes "bleeds" into the trace areas if the transparency is not extremely tight to the blank PCB.



-Matt

[j8m8l]

I just made a circuit board for rc-cams landtastic controller, only took about 15 mins and it looks great! I wish I worked out how to use the autotrace before! I have been using toner transfer for my PCB's, and have had really good results, I can go from design on computer to etch resist on PCB in about 3 mins (perhaps I should start a thread on this).

Josh

[maxalentix]

Matt,

I use the fluorescent lamp that came with the kit. So far, I have made 2 boards (one as a test board) and they came out perfect. I exposed the boards for exactly 10 minutes as the instructions recommend for fine traces.

The fluorescent light seems to be an ordinary above-the-counter type that you can buy anywhere. The tube in mine is made by "Globe". Model: F15T8D 120 V, 15 Watts. I recommend it....

--Gary

[zagisrule!]

Gary,

I was under the impression that it was a special UV lamp required for the exposure. I will try running a board under the flouros here at home and see what the results are.

Thanks for the info.



-Matt

[maxalentix]

I searched Google for that tube (F15T8D) and it looks like it is just an ordinary tube. Try this link - http://www.damarww.com/product.asp?sub=34&dep=T8%20Medium%20BiPin&prod=00588D#

[zagisrule!]

Cool,

Now all I have to do is make up a PCB for something....hmm...

Thanks for the help Gary.



-Matt

[Hovertime]

I just made a circuit board for rc-cams landtastic controller, only took about 15 mins and it looks great! I wish I worked out how to use the autotrace before! I have been using toner transfer for my PCB's, and have had really good results, I can go from design on computer to etch resist on PCB in about 3 mins (perhaps I should start a thread on this).

Josh

Do you have to "create" circuit manually in the eagle software, or import it somehow?
Do you have an Eagle file left by any chance that I could borrow;)??

[RussellK]

I just made a circuit board for rc-cams landtastic controller, only took about 15 mins and it looks great! I wish I worked out how to use the autotrace before! I have been using toner transfer for my PCB's, and have had really good results, I can go from design on computer to etch resist on PCB in about 3 mins (perhaps I should start a thread on this).
Josh

Please do! I tried using the blue press'n'peel sheet the other day - it took me about 4 attempts to get a decent print worth etching. I think the main problem was getting consistent & the correct amount of heat across the board.